knees. “D’you remember how he used to finish every warm-up session? He used to point out to the ocean and say, ‘Go get it.’ ” “Of course I remember,” says Finn. “It was like his blessing. ‘Go get it.’ ” “ ‘Infinite waves, infinite chances,’ ” I say, remembering another of Terry’s sayings, and Finn nods. “ ‘You don’t catch a wave by staring at the sky.’ ” “ ‘No one remembers the wipeouts.’ ” “ ‘Don’t doubt around all day.’ ” Finn imitates Terry’s hoarse voice. “ ‘Seize that wave.’ ” “ ‘Why are you worrying about the sea?’ ” I do my own imitation of Terry. “ ‘The sea sure as hell isn’t worrying
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