‘That is a turnip. Kyoto is famous for them. Eat it – you will find it very tasty,’ said Professor Kishi, who had assumed the role of host. I took a bite: it was fibrous but fragrant. The bar hostess said something in Japanese to Professor Kishi. ‘She says you look like Engelbert Humperdinck.’ ‘Tell her,’ I said, ‘I think she has beautiful knees.’ He told her. She laughed and spoke again. ‘She likes your nose!’ The following day I took my hangover to the top of Mount Hiei.