But he set a new mark that day, no question about it. He did more than prove himself. He surfed like someone who didn’t believe in death. The manic grin was gone. He clawed hungrily into the line-up and gave no quarter. It was twenty feet out there, maybe more, and he went later and deeper than either of us, never once begging off. He ploughed down those black-bellied monsters in a low crouch, his feet planted wide, while Sando and I sat in the channel and hooted in disbelief. Whatever we did that day, Loonie did it harder. I can’t believe he wasn’t afraid, but he had the cold determination of
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