Escoffier, who considered it an aberration that blunted the appetite ahead of the climactic evening meal, thoroughly disapproved of this English custom. Laid out by the butler and footmen, who then discreetly retired, the spread comprised an infinite number of sandwiches, scones, jams, cakes and pastries, as well as such improbable but mouth-watering additions as lobster salad, which was known to be one of the King’s favourites.
