An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace

by Tamar Adler

Chicken liver pâté 1 pound chicken livers salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 tablespoons (11/2 sticks) butter 2 tablespoons white wine, sherry, bourbon, Scotch, Cognac, or brandy 1 shallot, finely chopped 1/2 leek, finely sliced 1/2 clove garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons water a tiny, tiny pinch of ground cloves half that amount ground cinnamon 1/8 bay leaf, finely crumbled 1/4 cup well-picked fresh thyme leaves, chopped Clean any connective membranes from the livers and season them with salt and pepper. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a nonstick frying pan. When the pan is hot enough to sizzle, add some of the livers. Leave a bit of space around each liver. Let each liver get browned on one side. Flip and brown them on the other side. Take the livers out of the pan and put them on a plate. Add 1 tablespoon wine or liquor to the pan and scrape it with a wooden spoon. Pour the liquid over the livers you’ve cooked. Wipe the pan out with a paper towel. Repeat with the rest of the livers without adding the remaining wine or spirits. Once all the livers are cooked and removed, add the shallot, leek, and garlic to the pan along with the rest of the liquor and 2 tablespoons water. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables are completely tender. When they are, combine them, the dried spices, fresh thyme, the livers, and their liquid to the blender. Add 1 stick butter, cut into pieces. Blend. Taste. If it’s not acting funny, separating, or seeming milk-shaky—add more butter b...