An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace

by Tamar Adler

I usually make confit of chicken thighs. For eight chicken thighs, pound together two dried bay leaves and a half teaspoon whole peppercorns in a mortar with a pestle and mix in a lot of salt. Season the meat well with the mixture. Let it sit, salted and lightly covered with wax paper, in the refrigerator overnight. Heat an oven to 225 degrees. In an oven-safe casserole with a lid, heat enough olive oil to cover the thighs until it is just warm to the touch. Add the meat and submerge it. It can be in two layers, but must be completely covered in oil. Carefully put the pot into the oven, and let the meat cook, covered, for three to four hours. Check for doneness by inserting a knife near a bone. The meat should be about to fall off. Remove the pot and carefully remove each piece of meat with a slotted spoon. Let the olive oil cool. Once the meat is cool to the touch, fit it fairly closely into glass jars. Pour the cooled oil over the meat, making sure everything is completely covered, then cover and close. Strain and save any excess oil for the next time you make confit. To serve confit, bring it up to room temperature in its fat. Remove whatever you plan to serve. Add the pieces of confit to a cold pan. A nice thing about anything having been stored in fat is that it is perfectly prepared to get crisp brown surfaces. Once the meat has browned, put the pan in the oven until the meat is warm throughout. I like eating this best with salad. You can follow the same instructions...