Olive pastes are some of the handiest sauces to keep around. I can’t think of anything that isn’t improved by a spoonful of one. Make a basic olive paste by finely chopping olives, pounding a little garlic with salt, and mixing in a good amount of olive oil. There are a million variations, most of them good, each with its own name. In Greece, olive paste might have a few drops of vinegar added. In Italy, there may be chopped fresh rosemary—if you’re eating beans or bean soup, I recommend this variation. When olives and garlic and earthy rosemary plop down onto hot beans, something quite
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