An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace

by Tamar Adler

recommend buying the leafiest, most complete bunch of celery you can. Every part of a bunch of celery can be used. Tough outer branches are perfect for stock, and there’s no better ingredient for a capery salsa verde for eggs and no better herb for a pasta frittata than celery leaves. Celery with lemon 1 large or 2 small bunches celery 2 tablespoons unsalted butter water salt 2/3 to 1 lemon, sliced into the thinnest possible rounds 1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs freshly chopped parsley or mint leaves Cut the leaves from celery and set them aside. Use the entire stalks of celery for this dish, except for the very bottom of each bunch, where the stalks come together. If any of the stalks look especially dark green, save them for stock. Cut the rest of the stalks into 3-inch-long pieces. Locally grown celery is stronger flavored and tougher. It needs to be peeled. Put the celery, butter, and water to come halfway up into a pan that fits all the cut celery in one or two layers with 2 inches above it. Season it with a little salt, then layer the lemon rounds over the top. Heat the pan over high heat until the water starts to boil. Turn the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes. If you hear the pan start to dry out before the celery’s cooked, add water by the drizzle until there’s enough liquid in the pan to let it keep cooking without burning. Check for doneness by removing a piece and tasting it. The celery should be easy to pierce with a knife and taste quite ...