Spoon your filling over the half-moon of the omelet closest to you. Tilting the whole pan up toward you, fold the farther side, with a combination of gravity, your spatula, and optimism, over the filled half. Slide it out of the pan onto a plate. Or make an omelet but leave it unfilled and unfolded. Flat, round omelets are quiet, and a little serious. I like to eat them with bread or cut into wide ribbons and placed on hot rice, sprinkled with vinegar and a few pickled chiles. I recently learned a trick for making plain, flat omelets taste dressier: whisk in a teaspoon of white wine per three
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