An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace

by Tamar Adler

In Spain, the most common one, called tortilla española, is made of potatoes, onion, and eggs. Like everything in Spain, it’s made unabashedly oily. I recommend following suit. Tortilla española 2 small potatoes 1 onion a lot of olive oil salt 3 eggs, beaten Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Peel and thinly slice the potatoes and onion. Cook them together in a deep sauté pan with a committed 1/2 inch olive oil. Layer a combination of potatoes and onion in the pan, salting each layer. Cook them over low heat, letting them poach in the oil and the liquid they emit. When they’re soft, drain them in a colander over a bowl; save the starchy oil to cook vegetables in later in the week. Let the potatoes cool. Heat new olive oil in an eight- or nine-inch pan. Mix the potatoes, onion, a quarter of their oil, and beaten eggs to cover them, in a bowl, and pour the mixture into the pan. As soon as the eggs are set, put the pan in the oven to finish cooking for 10 to 15 minutes, until the top is set and just firm to the touch. Put a plate on the pan and flip the pan over. Serve at room temperature.