Cabbages do not grow underground but they are terribly neglected. A perfect way to flatter cabbage is to boil it. Cut a whole cabbage into fat wedges, leaving them attached at their core. Drop the wedges into well-salted boiling water, and cook them until the solid pieces of core are easily cut with a knife. Quickly drain and lay the wedges on a plate, add a long drizzle of olive oil and a splash of vinegar. This is heavenly. Or roast cabbage, cut into thinner wedges, in a deep, covered roasting pan with a sprinkle of white wine vinegar, another of water, and a lot of olive oil, until it’s
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