This was the great destination, the centre of European culture: Venice and Rome had called to him all his life. But he now discovered that he preferred less well known places. Had Montaigne had his way, remarked the secretary as they reached the Alps, he might have turned towards Poland or Greece20 instead, perhaps just to prolong the whole trip. But he met with opposition, and so agreed to follow the Italy route like everyone else. He soon recovered. ‘I never saw him less tired or complaining less of his pains,’ wrote the secretary now, ‘for his mind was so intent on what he encountered, both
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