At one fall, some boys see me pick myself up from the dust, and they rush away, only to reappear with a kettle full of cold mountain water for me to drink. Another
time, two boys in rags with gourds tied around their waists leave their cattle and come to watch. One carries a flute and hands it to me, but my brain is too addled by heat and effort to know what he wants. I hand it back and he plays the musical equivalent of a mountain torrent. His dexterity is astounding. He pours out notes with the speed and confidence of an absolute virtuoso, creating not a single stream of melody but a cascade
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