Beth Smith's Blog, page 5

The Crown Costume Exhibit

On Friday April 5th I went to Winterthur Museum in Winterthur, Delaware along with my mom and her friend Vicki. I have been to Winterthur one other time and that is when they had an exhibit of the costumes from the TV series Downton Abbey. Somebody tagged me in a Facebook post about a new exhibit called Costuming The Crown.

I don’t know if you guys know but I love Queen Elizabeth II. And I have been enjoying the Crown on Netflix very much. I’ve watched the whole series 3 times.

Winterthur is the only place that this exhibit will be in the United States and so since I was going to be only an hour away it was a no brainer.

I may have gotten in a little trouble for leaning to much on the platforms so I could get close enough to look at details. I was tempted to touch the fabrics but I restrained myself.

I wish I lived closer so I could go back again.

Anyway, let me just give you a gallery of a few of the dresses and what for me were the highlights. I’m including full length shots of some of the garments and some detail shots in this gallery and then I’ll go back later and talk about a few of them in another post.

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2019 Make Nine Challenge

If you follow me on Instagram you may have seen my post in December announcing my plans to take part in the 2019 Make Nine Challenge ( #makenine ). It was going to the first time I took part in this challenge which began in 2015 with Lucky Lucille.

I loved the idea of it for this year because I was jumping head first back into sewing and the clothes in my closet were disappointing. There were a lot of inexpensive knits in there which I was buying to avoid thinking about my measurements but they just weren’t really flattering on my body and I didn’t feel happy when I got dressed.

Last spring is when I started to think about sewing again, by the end of summer I was working on learning to fit my own body, and by the end of the year I had sewing on the brain.

So here was my plan:

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Back in December I was rolling some things around in my head but hadn’t convinced myself a new focus was the best idea so I was just planning on sewing for myself. If that was going to be the case then this make nine would be a 3 month thing and then I’d come up with the next 9 for the next 3 months. I mean, that’s only making less than one thing a week so no problem. Plus I has fabric for all of them.

Well, here we are. The first quarter of 2019 is ended and this is what I have finished.

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Yes, only 2 are finished. I do have the Vogue dress cut out and ready to sew and the Butterick wrap top on the bottom right corner ready to sew. I actually have plans to sew that up today. The Butterick Retro Dress in the bottom center is going to be my Easter dress and I bought new fabric for that one. And there are three tops that I was planning on making that haven’t been cut out yet and I’m not even sure I want to make 2 of them anymore because they won’t go well with all of the skirts I’ve been making. But! those two tops can also be made as dresses so I’m not taking those patterns out of the running yet.

No matter what, it’s good to have goals and it’s good to reevaluate those goals every 3 to 6 months and make tiny adjustments if necessary.

I will tell you though that since February 1 I have made 19 skirts. 16 of them will be going with me to Pennsylvania this week. I am joining my mom who makes custom bags for her spring show so we will have custom bags and skirts to show and sell.

Join us if you are in Eastern PA

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Custom Dressmaking

In a previous post I kind of did an overview of my sewing experience but I wanted to give a little bit more detail so let me tell you a bit more of my story.

When I was young I was very interested in sewing. I remember a doll I made from fabric scraps when I was maybe 7 or 8 years old. I cut the front and back pieces all as one and sewed her together. I stuffed her and embroidered on a face and sewed on some red yarn as hair. I made a kind of dress for her from some more scraps. If I remember correctly all of the sewing was done by hand. I was pretty happy with her but there were some things I wished I could do better.

I don’t remember many other sewing projects but I know I made some things because when I got to junior high school I took a Home Ec, Class where we learned sewing. I was annoyed by the project we were assigned which was a simple a-line skirt with an elastic waist . I got special permission to make a different project but was warned by my teacher that our projects needed to be able to be worn to school. I know she was trying to explain that I might be embarrassed if I did a bad job.

The pattern I chose was a vest with a hood. It was reversible and had a drawstring at the waist. I was able to find the pattern!

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One side was solid green and the other side was a small plaid that was green and red with gold threads running through. I was always a fan of the sparkles. I wish I still had that vest.

skipping ahead, I moved to California when I was 18 and got married when I was 20 and had my first baby when I was 21 and the second one just one year later. My husband was in the air force and we were very poor. So I started sewing again. This time I was making decorative pillows. I would buy satin and taffeta and lace edgings and appliques and make pillows. I made several sizes and shapes including heart shaped.

My husband took a few of my pillows to his work in the jet engine shop on the air force base and the guys he worked with loved them and started buying them for their cars! This was the late 80s in Southern California if that helps make any sense.

I sold those pillows for a couple of years until I left California and that unhappy marriage.

I went back to PA and got a day job and after a little while I noticed my mom had more sewing work than she could handle and so I asked her if she thought I would be able to do the work well enough and if she would recommend some people come to me. She did and she did. So I got into the weddings business. There were weddings where I made the whole kit and caboodle – bride, bridesmaids, flower girls and everything. Some weddings I just made the bridesmaids and some were just gown alterations and bustles (which is sometimes harder than just making the whole dress from scratch.)

I loved it.

I also made some matching dresses for me and my girls while that would still agree to it….

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When we moved to Michigan in 1999 I started putting the word out that I could do sewing but I was getting discouraged that all anybody wanted me to do was hem their husband’s pants so the sewing machine went into the corner for just some quick mending for the family and a dress here and here for my girls

And here we are. I missed sewing. I miss sewing for other people and making them clothes that actually fit their own body. And I miss my closet being full of clothes I love and that actually look good on me.

So, I am making skirts and listing many of them on Etsy in my Etsy store. I am posting photos of everything I make on Instagram and Facebook. I can make you a beautiful skirt from fabric you choose to your specifications. If you live in Michigan I can make you dresses for every day or special occasions. I love it and I and good at it! Don’t hesitate to contact me if you want to discuss it.

Rolled Hem Tips

I love a good rolled hem. It’s tiny and cute. It’s great to use on finer fabrics like silk, satin and cotton lawn.

I have 3 different rolled hem feet for my sewing machine. They are for 2, 4, and 6 millimeter hems. I use the most narrow one for the finest fabrics and the widest one generally for heavier cottons.

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Some people like to press the edge of their fabric to the wrong side about 1/8″ or 1/4″ depending on the size of the foot but I rarely press before I do the hem. If the fabric is a bit unstable or is cut on the bias it is a good idea t stay stitch the edge of the fabric before you do the hemming because it can be pulled out of shape and get a ripple effect.

I begin by placing my fabric under the foot and beginning to sew a straight stitch as I roll the fabric into the foot.

As I sew I hold the edge of the fabric folded in so that the foot can easily do its work.

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At each seam it is a good idea to clip the seam allowance at an angle so that the fabric can fit through the opening of the foot.

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Make sure to go slow here and try not to pull or stretch the fabric. Also be careful when the seam allowance runs up to the foot that it goes under the foot and the foot doesn’t go under the edge and fold it in the opposite direction.

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I forgot to take a picture but when you get around to the beginning roll the hem by hand to match the end with the beginning.

Scraps

Today I just have a question. I have been sewing a lot. Which means I have a LOT of fabric scraps.

What do you do with them all? Of course the ones that are at least 1/4 of a yard I put back on the shelf but all the other little bits. Tell me what you do.

Zipper Installation

When I took a sewing class in high school there were no zippers. And it’s funny that even though my mom sewed for other people my whole life I never paid attention to her zipper installation.

When I went to Pennsylvania in January I asked her to walk me through how she does it. I found out that she prefers a lapped zipper installation and also that she never follows the pattern instructions.

Most dress patterns I’ve made leave the zipper for last in the dress construction and so that’s how I’ve always done it. The zipper packaging doesn’t help really.

The other thing she told me was she always assembles the back pieces and then installs the zipper while the bits are flat. Since then I have been installing all of the skirt zippers that way and it’s been lovely. But this will be the first dress I made since she told me. This was a new pattern for me too so I generally pay attention to the instructions. Sew the darts, sew the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces, add the neck facing or the lining, sew the bodice side seams, sew the skirt pieces together, sew the skirt to the bodice, insert the sleeves and finally the zipper.

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This time I sewed the center back seam of the skirt to the notch where the zipper sits and sewed the two back pieces to the top of the skirt. Press the waist seam up and the back seam open. And then I added the zipper. It was a wonderful thing. So easy, so much less fabric, no worrying about sewing the zipper accidentally on to the front bit of the skirt.

I am so grateful to my mom for this tip even though I feel like she told it to me 30 years later than I would have liked!

You can see her instructions here. It’s an unedited video I took of her giving me instruction.

Night and Day Dress of the Month

I made a big plan for this year for my own wardrobe. I am going to make a version of the Night and Day Dress from Charm Patterns designed by Gretchen Hirsch. The pattern has the opportunity to make 72 different dresses by combining the different sleeve, bodice, collar and skirt pattern pieces.

Every month beginning this month and going all the way through February 2020. Each dress will be seasonally appropriate.

Today I’m here to show you the dress for March.

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There are a few things I changed and a few things I want to change on the next one.

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I lengthened the back darts and rounded the front darts. I took about 1.5 inches off of the back to shorten it. And now I think it fits pretty well.

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I chose to make the simplest version for the dress for this first one because I knew I wanted to work on the fitting.

There are a couple of things I want to do to finish this dress.

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It still needs a hem and I will add a few belt loops to wear this belt with it. I think it makes it look better.

For the next one I would like to narrow the neck just a little bit because I hate always adjusting my bra straps so they aren’t sticking out.

Another thing I dislike is the fabric on the bodice. I bought it at JoAnn Fabrics and I knew it felt stiff when I was buying it but I assumed it was just heavily sized and that would come out when I prewashed it. No luck. It is one of the most stiff fabrics I’ve every worked with. Both the skirt and bodice are 100% cotton but the hand and drape are so different from each other.

I’m excited that in September I’ll be taking a class in New York State with Gretchen herself. By then I will have made 6 dresses from this pattern but I know that she will be able to help be get the most perfect fit. Stay tuned for the progress.

Will Washing Hurt it?

It’s funny that this is a question I get asked no matter what kind of textiles I’m working with. Not usually in those words but people are often worried about how best to wash their clothing or other fabrics they have in their home so let’s talk about different fibers and the best way to care for them.

Many items you buy will ask you to dry clean them but often that just isn’t required. Natural fibers have spent their lives growing outside and so a little water won’t hurt them. The fibers which are man made, even those which began as a plant like tencel or rayon may have an issue with being laundered at home so definitely check the labels and follow those direction.

Natural Fibers

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Wool – Lots of people are worried about washing wool. That worry often comes from those horror stories of a favorite wool sweater going through the washer and dryer and never being the same again. Honestly, washing wool garments is super easy. Fill a sink or tub with hot water and a bit of laundry soap. Push the item under the water. Let it soak for 15 or 20 minutes. fill the sink again with hot water, this time no soap. Put the garment back in and swish it around a bit to get rid of the soap. Squeeze it out and lay it flat to dry. Sometimes I put it between a couple of towels to get more water out and sometimes I spin it out in the spin cycle of the washer as long as it isn’t g the cycle that spits water at whatever is spinning around. That’s it. Easy and way cheaper than the dry cleaner. Keep in mind though that you will want to check for color fastness and that colors will fade more quickly when washing in the washing machine and drying in the dryer. Avoid using bleach with wool as it breaks down the fibers.

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Cotton – Just throw it in the washing machine and run it through the dryer. No worries. I like it to go through the dry because it’s softer than if it is hung out to dry but the dryer isn’t necessary

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Silk – This is another fabric that usually says Dry Clean Only but I have had no problems washing silk in the washing machine. I usually do it on the delicate cycle and it is good if you put it in a mesh bag. You can also hand wash silk. Use a lukewarm water and you might want to use a delicate soap. The dryer is something to stay away from though. Lay your silk things flat to dry them. Again, avoid bleach with silk as it breaks down the fibers.

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Linen – Linen can stand up to a regular wash in the washing machine just like cotton. Again, I like to dry my linen items in the dryer and I try to get them out asap to cut down on the wrinkles if I can.

Man Made Fibers

Polyester – This fabric will stand up to anything. Washer and dryer. No problem. It can permanently wrinkle in a hot dryer so dry on a lower setting or make sure to get the clothes out as soon as possible when the clothes are dry.

Rayon – This is where it gets tricky. Rayon should only be dry cleaned if the label says dry clean. If it says it can be washed at home then go for it because that means the fabric or fibers have been treated to make them ok to get wet.

Nylon – Fabrics made from Nylon should only be washed in cold water and should be hung or laid flat to dry. Nylon can also melt if it is placed in a dryer that is too hot so lower the drying temperature. Nylon has a shorter life the more it is washed and dried so take special care to air your clothing items out between wearings to keep the washing to a minimum.

Tencel – Tencel can usually be machine washed and dried but definitely check the care label for this one to make sure.

My point is that even though special care must be taken to care for your clothing, often that care can be taken at home.

Using a Border Print for a Circle Skirt

I bought some spectacular fabric that was a border print. I automatically thought of making a lovely gathered skirt with the border at the hem and I was very happy with how it turned out.

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You can see that it’s beautiful and versatile. The fabric is a linen cotton blend and so it is also very comfortable to wear.

But then I started wondering about using a border print with a circle skirt and I started to play around with placing the pattern. Here’s what I ended up with.

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I love it so much but this exercise gave me lots of ideas for using border prints with a circle skirt pattern. In the end I went with a matching front and back but I was tempted to have the striped border go down the center back just to see.

[image error]This is me trying thinking about how to place the border for the back pieces of the skirt.

Also, because I love the look of a circle skirt and may want the border around the bottom I’ll probably need to make a gored skirt. So because of all the things I want to try I have ordered a few more border prints to play with. And of course I ordered enough to make a skirt for me and also a skirt for you too if you want one.

I still have enough of the above fabric for at least 2 more skirts. So, let me know if you would like me to make you one too.

Just one more thing. My only scheduled spinning classes are at Midwest Weavers in Iowa this year. I’m teaching several great classes. Sign up now if you are even thinking about attending.

Details

It’s the last day of February.

On the first day of February I launched my new business of selling custom, hand made skirts on Etsy as well as custom sewing for people who are more local to me.

Over the last 4 weeks I have made a lot of skirts – 8 of them – both gathered and circle skirts. With all of this practice in a short time I am perfecting my designs and making decisions about construction that will set the clothing I make apart from lots of others.

[image error]Every exposed edge is finished.




[image error]Even the pockets.



[image error]gathered skirts are hand gathered to assure even distribution of the fabric along the whole waist band.



[image error]The inside waist band is hand sewn for strength and to cover the upper edge of the skirt beautifully.



[image error]Large hooks are used and hand sewn in place for the waistband closure.



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[image error]hems are either finished with a bound edge such as the one above or with a bias binding turned to the inside.



[image error]And here is the finished skirt for a special date!



[image error]And here is that same skirt for wearing to do errands or to get a hot chocolate with a friend.

This skirt turned out even better than I imagined. Next I’m going to try this same border print on a circle skirt. I’ll show it to you when it’s finished.

If you love this fabric I can make you a skirt like this too. Just let me know.

In the meantime, check the Etsy shop or follow along in Instagram or on Facebook.