Kate Doran

‘You do know that steak is just dead cow’, my big brother told me gleefully, looking sideways at the bistecca I was about to eat.

I paused, my mum reports, slowly lifted up my knife and fork and looked him straight in the eye.

‘I love dead cow’.

More than a quarter of a century later, including a good decade of vegetarianism – not, I hasten to add, a result of my brother’s goading – my se