C. Henry Martens's Blog, page 22
March 29, 2015
Certified Black Angus Genetic Armageddon
by C. Henry Martens
There is no animal so easily manipulated by Artificial Insemination as the common domestic cow. So what’s the problem? The Certified Angus Beef marketing scheme has provided fertile ground for abnormalities and genetic roulette.
Well, whether you eat meat or not, cattle provide precious and high quality protein to so many people that if they were unavailable all of our food bills would skyrocket. You see, aside from the obvious source of food is the back story of how cattle are regularly born and grown to substantial size on acreage that is not tillable. In other words, if steak and hamburger were to disappear from the open air and supermarkets of the world, you would have to find something that you could use to replace that source of food. That or suffer the consequences of starvation for even more people than are already going hungry. Anything likely to be available is also likely to be a plant, and that means you have to grow it. Much of the acreage cattle use can not be used productively for growing crops. If cattle have problems… so do we.
The “Certified Angus Beef” program has been an unqualified marketing success for the “black” variant. With little actual reason to believe that the Black Angus breed is any better than any other breed, the program was implemented by the American Angus Association in 1978. Their claims are many, but two of those claims in particular seem to have resonated well, one with breeders and the other with meat buyers.
The breeders of cattle, having an investment in their animals, have always been concerned with the number of live calves and surviving cows in any calving season. The Angus breed has produced some amazing success with calving ease, and thus with both cow and calf survival. The claim of calving ease has some legitimacy. Angus are naturally polled, meaning without horns growing as they mature, and when cattlemen turned to polled cattle there was a fierce controversy over whether horned or polled cattle had more survivors at birth due to the shape and size of the calf’s head. Horned adult cattle can be dangerous, both to cattlemen and each other, so polled cattle were economically attractive. There was much evidence that indicated horned cattle were better… until the Angus breeders came up with better statistics. This is not to say that other polled breeds haven’t solved calving problems. In general, they have.
With the end game meat consumer the Association makes the claim that Black Angus beef is superior to all others. Does Black Angus meat taste better than other beef? I would challenge that claim. I have seen the results of taste and cutability (tenderness) tests that place Angus in pretty much the same category as other beef breeds. There is so much variation in both individuals and environments that once the hide is removed I can’t tell the difference, and I would challenge any Angus breeder to tell the difference. The superior animals of any beef breed are identical, in my opinion, to any other beef breed.
But this great marketing campaign has led to a severe problem in the entire cattle industry. Because cattle with black hides command a higher price on the hoof, and because that economic reality translates to survival and financial success or failure at the producer level, black bulls are being used almost to the point of exclusivity. And here is where it gets dicey…
Since the advent of Artificial Insemination, collecting sperm from a male animal and freezing it to be implanted in a female as desired at a later time, there has been a growth industry in producing the best bulls possible. Those top bulls in past times would have been placed with thirty cows, more or less, for natural breeding. Now, with Artificial Insemination, some of these bulls never see a cow, and each ejaculation can be used to produce more calves than the naturally breeding bull would have had in a lifetime. The super bulls have tens of thousands of offspring, each carrying the same genetics. Traits that are desired, and inherited, are reproduced in progeny. That’s the good news… but there is a dark side.
Picture a triangle. Place the top bull in the world at the top point. He is there alone, isn’t he? Below him are other bulls, not many, and almost as perfect, and probably a number of them are related to the top bull. The next layer down is the same, with many related individuals. After all, with Artificial Insemination you can purchase the best breeding, the best bulls, and produce the best calves. Half of those calves are your replacement heifers (females), and they are superior, too. They also carry the same genetics as the bulls.
I’m pretty sure you see where I am going with this. This is a good marketing idea, gone bad.
Recessive genes have started to show up in troublesome quantities. Two related parents have a much higher probability of carrying similar genes. Some of these genes are recessive and will be rare in unrelated breeding. But with related individuals the likelihood of problems manifesting are increased dramatically. Two individuals carrying the same defective recessive gene have a 25% chance of the syndrome showing up in their offspring. They also have a 50% chance that their unaffected offspring will carry the defective gene.
As of this writing there are four “identified” recessive defects in Black Angus.
AM, or Arthrogryposis Multiplex, produces “curly calf” syndrome. These calves are dead or almost always die shortly after birth. This syndrome, from my understanding, has been linked to a single top bull.
NH, or Neuropathic Hydrocephalus, produces “waterhead” calves, huge heads filled with body fluids. They do not survive. This syndrome is shared by many animals, including humans.
CA, or Contractural Arachnodactyly, is referred to as “fawn calf syndrome” in which the animal is small, with long legs and an arched back, and occasionally resembles a deer with large ears and small head and face. These calves are not economically useful.
Dwarfism, or chondrodysplasia has been around for years in cattle, and is actually bred for in some cases. As commercial cattle they are unsuitable for the beef industry.
The Black Angus Association has developed genetic tests for these problems, but in my opinion they are failing to address the issues involved at the source, due to short term economic interests. Between the promotion of Black Angus as “the” superior breed, creating a preference for black bulls to the exclusion of other breeds, and the use of Artificial Insemination with limited numbers of top black bulls almost exclusively to determine genetics, it is my prediction that there will be an ongoing problem. I would not be surprised if there are more than four problematic genetic syndromes out there waiting to be discovered. Time will tell.
What is odd is this. I’ve spoken to many people in the meat industries, and they tell me that they sell meat as Certified Black Angus once the hides are removed, whether the animals are black or not.
Postscript: To be fair, all bovine breeds use Artificial Insemination in the same way, and it is likely that they will have issues, too, if the practice continues as presently employed. Especially as there are fewer and fewer bulls of these breeds due to black bulls being given preference. There is too little genetic diversity and too few top bulls.
www.readmota.com
There is no animal so easily manipulated by Artificial Insemination as the common domestic cow. So what’s the problem? The Certified Angus Beef marketing scheme has provided fertile ground for abnormalities and genetic roulette.
Well, whether you eat meat or not, cattle provide precious and high quality protein to so many people that if they were unavailable all of our food bills would skyrocket. You see, aside from the obvious source of food is the back story of how cattle are regularly born and grown to substantial size on acreage that is not tillable. In other words, if steak and hamburger were to disappear from the open air and supermarkets of the world, you would have to find something that you could use to replace that source of food. That or suffer the consequences of starvation for even more people than are already going hungry. Anything likely to be available is also likely to be a plant, and that means you have to grow it. Much of the acreage cattle use can not be used productively for growing crops. If cattle have problems… so do we.
The “Certified Angus Beef” program has been an unqualified marketing success for the “black” variant. With little actual reason to believe that the Black Angus breed is any better than any other breed, the program was implemented by the American Angus Association in 1978. Their claims are many, but two of those claims in particular seem to have resonated well, one with breeders and the other with meat buyers.
The breeders of cattle, having an investment in their animals, have always been concerned with the number of live calves and surviving cows in any calving season. The Angus breed has produced some amazing success with calving ease, and thus with both cow and calf survival. The claim of calving ease has some legitimacy. Angus are naturally polled, meaning without horns growing as they mature, and when cattlemen turned to polled cattle there was a fierce controversy over whether horned or polled cattle had more survivors at birth due to the shape and size of the calf’s head. Horned adult cattle can be dangerous, both to cattlemen and each other, so polled cattle were economically attractive. There was much evidence that indicated horned cattle were better… until the Angus breeders came up with better statistics. This is not to say that other polled breeds haven’t solved calving problems. In general, they have.
With the end game meat consumer the Association makes the claim that Black Angus beef is superior to all others. Does Black Angus meat taste better than other beef? I would challenge that claim. I have seen the results of taste and cutability (tenderness) tests that place Angus in pretty much the same category as other beef breeds. There is so much variation in both individuals and environments that once the hide is removed I can’t tell the difference, and I would challenge any Angus breeder to tell the difference. The superior animals of any beef breed are identical, in my opinion, to any other beef breed.
But this great marketing campaign has led to a severe problem in the entire cattle industry. Because cattle with black hides command a higher price on the hoof, and because that economic reality translates to survival and financial success or failure at the producer level, black bulls are being used almost to the point of exclusivity. And here is where it gets dicey…
Since the advent of Artificial Insemination, collecting sperm from a male animal and freezing it to be implanted in a female as desired at a later time, there has been a growth industry in producing the best bulls possible. Those top bulls in past times would have been placed with thirty cows, more or less, for natural breeding. Now, with Artificial Insemination, some of these bulls never see a cow, and each ejaculation can be used to produce more calves than the naturally breeding bull would have had in a lifetime. The super bulls have tens of thousands of offspring, each carrying the same genetics. Traits that are desired, and inherited, are reproduced in progeny. That’s the good news… but there is a dark side.
Picture a triangle. Place the top bull in the world at the top point. He is there alone, isn’t he? Below him are other bulls, not many, and almost as perfect, and probably a number of them are related to the top bull. The next layer down is the same, with many related individuals. After all, with Artificial Insemination you can purchase the best breeding, the best bulls, and produce the best calves. Half of those calves are your replacement heifers (females), and they are superior, too. They also carry the same genetics as the bulls.
I’m pretty sure you see where I am going with this. This is a good marketing idea, gone bad.
Recessive genes have started to show up in troublesome quantities. Two related parents have a much higher probability of carrying similar genes. Some of these genes are recessive and will be rare in unrelated breeding. But with related individuals the likelihood of problems manifesting are increased dramatically. Two individuals carrying the same defective recessive gene have a 25% chance of the syndrome showing up in their offspring. They also have a 50% chance that their unaffected offspring will carry the defective gene.
As of this writing there are four “identified” recessive defects in Black Angus.
AM, or Arthrogryposis Multiplex, produces “curly calf” syndrome. These calves are dead or almost always die shortly after birth. This syndrome, from my understanding, has been linked to a single top bull.
NH, or Neuropathic Hydrocephalus, produces “waterhead” calves, huge heads filled with body fluids. They do not survive. This syndrome is shared by many animals, including humans.
CA, or Contractural Arachnodactyly, is referred to as “fawn calf syndrome” in which the animal is small, with long legs and an arched back, and occasionally resembles a deer with large ears and small head and face. These calves are not economically useful.
Dwarfism, or chondrodysplasia has been around for years in cattle, and is actually bred for in some cases. As commercial cattle they are unsuitable for the beef industry.
The Black Angus Association has developed genetic tests for these problems, but in my opinion they are failing to address the issues involved at the source, due to short term economic interests. Between the promotion of Black Angus as “the” superior breed, creating a preference for black bulls to the exclusion of other breeds, and the use of Artificial Insemination with limited numbers of top black bulls almost exclusively to determine genetics, it is my prediction that there will be an ongoing problem. I would not be surprised if there are more than four problematic genetic syndromes out there waiting to be discovered. Time will tell.
What is odd is this. I’ve spoken to many people in the meat industries, and they tell me that they sell meat as Certified Black Angus once the hides are removed, whether the animals are black or not.
Postscript: To be fair, all bovine breeds use Artificial Insemination in the same way, and it is likely that they will have issues, too, if the practice continues as presently employed. Especially as there are fewer and fewer bulls of these breeds due to black bulls being given preference. There is too little genetic diversity and too few top bulls.
www.readmota.com
March 23, 2015
Horse People are Crazy
by C. Henry Martens
Horse people are crazy.
Crazy? I ought to know, I am one. In my muddled past I have had my feet stepped on by some mighty large beasts, and most were equine. I’ve done pretty much everything that a horse person can do, and learned and changed my attitudes along the way.
So why do I see horse people as crazy? Because of the three types of horse people, none have a real grip on what horses mean/need/are in this world. At least not the totality of it.
So let’s define the three types of horse people. At least THAT can be clearly quantified.
Horses-as-livestock people. These used to be the vast majority of equine owners, trainers, users, and even those people not involved with horses. Now, in these times of little real industrial use for horses, they are a much smaller group. People that see horses as livestock can be of many persuasions in how they care for their animals, but most livestock owners are fairly aware of the dollar values in what they own, so they provide reasonable care for their investments. They are also likely to actually use their horses as some form of labor, training them to do a job. Often a horse trained to work is useful for many years, so these animals have a reasonable expectation of living well until they are old or become unsound.Horses-as-pets people. These folks enjoy the romance of the horse. They enjoy them for their spirit, their beauty, and they often anthropomorphize animals. Often they have never owned a horse. The horse as a pet has grown in popularity, becoming the majority of late. Most of the horses you see are pets. Someone bought them, perhaps had them trained, and if the horse is lucky they continued to care for it past the owner’s initial fascination. The pet owner may have even continued to ride the animal more than occasionally. The sad fact is that most people that see horses as pets come by their first with little actual experience, and that means there is a vast amount of difference in how these pet owners treat their purchases. Some become hoarders, even breeders, and may end up with a pasture full of starving ponies of little value. Some just get over their romantic ideas and store their horse in whatever way becomes most convenient. A few actually get past the expense and responsibility to become wonderful owners. They are in the minority by far, because they actually spend time with their animals, supply good feed and medical care, and give their charges something to do.The in-between people. The people that migrate toward the middle are the least populous of the horse types. They see the romance and beauty but understand the toil and expense, and they tend to understand that the horse itself is best used for work, both for the good of their owners as well as the animal itself. Many times they have owned a horse in the past, but choose not to be owners of animals that they can’t put to good use or provide for properly.
There is plenty of cross-over between these people, sometimes not easily defined.
Let’s visit some of the stranger behaviors of horse people.
One of the almost universally strange things that horse people do is to keep their horse on dirt if they don’t have vast amounts of acreage, with no green pasture to roll in or to eat. Have you ever noticed? I see it all the time. Someone will have a couple of horses behind fence in a large dirt lot, and across the fence is another pasture of basically the same size with cows… and grass. I’ve never figured out why the owners can’t see this phenomenon, that horses will ruin a pasture while cows or other animals will not. I’m going to make a suggestion. If you have horses or are going to buy one, contain it in a large paddock not to exceed thirty feet by thirty feet. Then use the rest of the pasture as a treat to be used only occasionally. If the horse is only allowed access every other day, or three times a week for only the evening hours, your horse will have some grass to play on and be better off for it. Putting a horse in an overly large space has no value for anyone, including the horse.
Horses are not wild animals. If they are out in unenclosed space and unowned or cared for, they are feral. Ask yourself this: If these horses were behind a fence and owned and treated this way, what would you think of the owners? My point is this. We allow feral horses to run “free” because of the romantic notion that they are a symbol of that freedom. But the truth is that their lives are not good, without exception. Many live long lives, but many die lingering deaths due to bad mouths or leg injuries, to say nothing of the twenty miles or more between incredibly marginal feed and scarce water. If we treated our owned horses the same way that feral horses are treated, the authorities would be pounding on our doors because somebody that loves “wild” horses turned us in for animal neglect. Wild animals belong outside of fences. Domestic animals belong enclosed. If humans are responsible for their breeding, then surely they should be responsible for their care.
Domestic animals are bred for purpose, and that includes horses. Recently there have been many cities that have outlawed the carriage trade. There is a downside to horses in congested areas. They have lungs just like we do, so auto exhaust is not good for them. But we are speaking of animals that have a lifespan of twenty five years, more or less, and the concern is less than you might think. Cities are hot. Well, yes they are. So are open dirt lots, and deserts where there is little shade, feed, or water. Horses are not people. They are built to take the heat. There are dangers of collision, as well as horses that stampede. Those dangers are real, and can be compared to what occurs in feral environments between fighting animals or fleeing from predators. Most carriage owners have at least two horses, and rotate them. What happens to a horse that has no use? I’ve seen the people railing about carriages and stating that “the horses deserve a home with green grass and a shade tree.” Do they really think that these usually overlarge draft animals will be put out to pasture till the end of their days? The best most of them can hope for is to be put in a feed lot with other unwanted horses until they are shipped to a Mexican slaughterhouse. Personally, I’d rather pull a light cart every other day on flat streets, with plenty of attention from kind people and the occasional apple or carrot. I like horses. I would bet that you do as well. But I would not breed a horse because there are already more unused animals than there should be. I would also not own a horse unless I had something for it to do. A good horse, under saddle or in harness, is as close to a good partner in life as a loving wife/husband or a faithful dog. Those of us that have experienced that are blessed.
www.readmota.com
Horse people are crazy.
Crazy? I ought to know, I am one. In my muddled past I have had my feet stepped on by some mighty large beasts, and most were equine. I’ve done pretty much everything that a horse person can do, and learned and changed my attitudes along the way.
So why do I see horse people as crazy? Because of the three types of horse people, none have a real grip on what horses mean/need/are in this world. At least not the totality of it.
So let’s define the three types of horse people. At least THAT can be clearly quantified.
Horses-as-livestock people. These used to be the vast majority of equine owners, trainers, users, and even those people not involved with horses. Now, in these times of little real industrial use for horses, they are a much smaller group. People that see horses as livestock can be of many persuasions in how they care for their animals, but most livestock owners are fairly aware of the dollar values in what they own, so they provide reasonable care for their investments. They are also likely to actually use their horses as some form of labor, training them to do a job. Often a horse trained to work is useful for many years, so these animals have a reasonable expectation of living well until they are old or become unsound.Horses-as-pets people. These folks enjoy the romance of the horse. They enjoy them for their spirit, their beauty, and they often anthropomorphize animals. Often they have never owned a horse. The horse as a pet has grown in popularity, becoming the majority of late. Most of the horses you see are pets. Someone bought them, perhaps had them trained, and if the horse is lucky they continued to care for it past the owner’s initial fascination. The pet owner may have even continued to ride the animal more than occasionally. The sad fact is that most people that see horses as pets come by their first with little actual experience, and that means there is a vast amount of difference in how these pet owners treat their purchases. Some become hoarders, even breeders, and may end up with a pasture full of starving ponies of little value. Some just get over their romantic ideas and store their horse in whatever way becomes most convenient. A few actually get past the expense and responsibility to become wonderful owners. They are in the minority by far, because they actually spend time with their animals, supply good feed and medical care, and give their charges something to do.The in-between people. The people that migrate toward the middle are the least populous of the horse types. They see the romance and beauty but understand the toil and expense, and they tend to understand that the horse itself is best used for work, both for the good of their owners as well as the animal itself. Many times they have owned a horse in the past, but choose not to be owners of animals that they can’t put to good use or provide for properly.
There is plenty of cross-over between these people, sometimes not easily defined.
Let’s visit some of the stranger behaviors of horse people.
One of the almost universally strange things that horse people do is to keep their horse on dirt if they don’t have vast amounts of acreage, with no green pasture to roll in or to eat. Have you ever noticed? I see it all the time. Someone will have a couple of horses behind fence in a large dirt lot, and across the fence is another pasture of basically the same size with cows… and grass. I’ve never figured out why the owners can’t see this phenomenon, that horses will ruin a pasture while cows or other animals will not. I’m going to make a suggestion. If you have horses or are going to buy one, contain it in a large paddock not to exceed thirty feet by thirty feet. Then use the rest of the pasture as a treat to be used only occasionally. If the horse is only allowed access every other day, or three times a week for only the evening hours, your horse will have some grass to play on and be better off for it. Putting a horse in an overly large space has no value for anyone, including the horse.
Horses are not wild animals. If they are out in unenclosed space and unowned or cared for, they are feral. Ask yourself this: If these horses were behind a fence and owned and treated this way, what would you think of the owners? My point is this. We allow feral horses to run “free” because of the romantic notion that they are a symbol of that freedom. But the truth is that their lives are not good, without exception. Many live long lives, but many die lingering deaths due to bad mouths or leg injuries, to say nothing of the twenty miles or more between incredibly marginal feed and scarce water. If we treated our owned horses the same way that feral horses are treated, the authorities would be pounding on our doors because somebody that loves “wild” horses turned us in for animal neglect. Wild animals belong outside of fences. Domestic animals belong enclosed. If humans are responsible for their breeding, then surely they should be responsible for their care.
Domestic animals are bred for purpose, and that includes horses. Recently there have been many cities that have outlawed the carriage trade. There is a downside to horses in congested areas. They have lungs just like we do, so auto exhaust is not good for them. But we are speaking of animals that have a lifespan of twenty five years, more or less, and the concern is less than you might think. Cities are hot. Well, yes they are. So are open dirt lots, and deserts where there is little shade, feed, or water. Horses are not people. They are built to take the heat. There are dangers of collision, as well as horses that stampede. Those dangers are real, and can be compared to what occurs in feral environments between fighting animals or fleeing from predators. Most carriage owners have at least two horses, and rotate them. What happens to a horse that has no use? I’ve seen the people railing about carriages and stating that “the horses deserve a home with green grass and a shade tree.” Do they really think that these usually overlarge draft animals will be put out to pasture till the end of their days? The best most of them can hope for is to be put in a feed lot with other unwanted horses until they are shipped to a Mexican slaughterhouse. Personally, I’d rather pull a light cart every other day on flat streets, with plenty of attention from kind people and the occasional apple or carrot. I like horses. I would bet that you do as well. But I would not breed a horse because there are already more unused animals than there should be. I would also not own a horse unless I had something for it to do. A good horse, under saddle or in harness, is as close to a good partner in life as a loving wife/husband or a faithful dog. Those of us that have experienced that are blessed.
www.readmota.com
March 13, 2015
Spiders and Scorpions and Snakes! Oh, My! Tips to Prepare for Venomous Bites and Stings
by Kari Carlisle
Photo by John A Carlisle Photography ©2012
Scenario: You have survived the apocalypse. Yippee! Now you have to survive the post-apocalypse. Yikes. There is still a world of dangers out there, and you may have little or no access to medical help. What to do…
Knowing and understanding a danger is the first step to facing that danger. If TV and movies are your main sources of information on venomous animals and insects, it’s time for some re-education. Popular culture has supplied a lot of incorrect information about venomous creatures, and you may be surprised to learn how minimal the danger really is. Hopefully, learning more about venomous species will both put your mind at ease and motivate you to be as prepared as you can be for the unlikely event of a potentially deadly bite or sting.
The first information you need to learn is what venomous species live in your area. Know what they look like. Learn their behavior and their habitat. Are they nocturnal? Seasonal? How do they administer their venom? It may comfort you to know that most snakes are not venomous, and in most areas of the world, snakebites are rare. Typically, venomous species will not chase or seek you out but will only attack if they feel threatened.
Research venom-related injury and death rates in your area. Many snakebites are “dry,” meaning no venom is injected. Most scorpions have relatively mild venom, no worse than a bee sting. You’re probably more likely to be hit by lightning or win the lottery (or survive the apocalypse?) than to be bitten by, let alone die from, a venomous creature.
Knowing what you’re up against will help you prevent your possible exposure. In addition to knowing what is living in your region, consider your post-apocalyptic lifestyle risk. Bugging out and being on the move may put you at higher risk than homesteading. Living in a rural area or near the edge of town may bring you closer to nature and all the hazards therein. On the other hand, don’t let fear drive you to Manhattan apartment living – that’s where the plague, robots, zombies and/or aliens are more likely to be.
If you’re staying put, there are many things you can do to decrease the possibility of a venomous creature gaining access to your property.
To keep spiders, scorpions and other insects at bay, a sprinkling of food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) around your property on a regular basis will do the trick. DE is made up of fine particles of fossil shell that give creatures with an exoskeleton (a hard, outer shell) microscopic cuts that cause them to dehydrate and die. DE is incredibly effective and perfectly safe. DE can be purchased at some feed stores or online. Use food-grade DE because non-food-grade DE contains toxic chemicals. DE doesn’t go bad, so stock up.
To discourage snakes, keep in mind the kinds of habitat that snakes in your area prefer. Keep the area around your property free of weeds, debris and holes that snakes might use as a hideout or den. If snakes are a common hazard, consider building a block wall around your property. If you already have a block wall, look for holes or cracks that should be sealed. Water and food are major attractants for unwanted pests. Snakes have been known to keep pets away from their own water bowl. Elevating water bowls or provide water through a large drip waterer over a drain, and be sure to clean up any leftover food.
Despite all efforts, the worst can happen and you could fall prey to a venomous bite or sting. If you are bitten or stung, quickly move away from the creature to avoid any continuing threat. Unless you need to remove it from your property, do not attempt to capture or kill the creature. This will only increase your own risk of getting attacked.
Learn what happens after envenomation (injection of venom). Symptoms will vary from individual to individual, may appear within minutes or not for hours, and will vary depending on the origin of the bite/sting and the amount of venom injected. If you are doing everything you can to keep your immune system healthy and strong, you may survive and not even get very sick.
What will you do if medical care is not immediately available? You should consider what first aid you will administer if help is unavailable. If you want some amusement, search online for rattlesnake bite folk remedies, and you’ll find everything from rubbing raw onions to applying the raw side of a freshly slain chicken to the bite. In reality you can do more harm than good in applying first aid if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Old school first aid for snakebites would have you cutting through the skin, sucking out the venom and applying tourniquets. Now the Center for Disease Control would have you do none of these things. Modern advice is to keep immobile if possible because the faster the heart pumps, the quicker the venom moves through the body toward the heart where it can do the most damage. Cutting and sucking remove very little venom and just cause greater tissue damage and risk for infection. Tourniquets are usually improperly applied and end up causing limb loss, infection and gangrene, practically a death sentence in our post-apocalyptic scenario.
Other things you should not do for snakebite include applying ice or eating food. The most important thing you should do is not panic. Panic, or even just elevated stress, will cause the heartbeat to rise. Stay calm. Snakebites do not commonly lead to death.
Cleanse scorpion sting and spider bite wounds with clean water or saline solution. In any bite/sting, a severe allergic reaction is possible, so you may want to take an antihistamine such as Benadryl.
There are a few first aid oral remedies that will do no harm and may actually help. The homeopathic remedy, arnica montana, is an effective remedy for any injury to reduce pain and speed healing. Echinacea and vitamin C will help support the immune system. These remedies can be taken right away and regularly until you’re fully recovered.
A first aid remedy that has been successfully used for all venomous bites and stings is powdered, activated charcoal. As a poultice it can be applied directly to the bite/sting wound to draw out and neutralize the venom. Activated charcoal can also be mixed in water and taken internally. Numerous studies and testimonials bear out the amazing properties of activated charcoal in counteracting toxic substances including venom. Buy food-grade, powdered, activated charcoal (not the kind for your barbeque), and keep it on hand.
Activated charcoal is most effective during the first 24 hours after envenomation. After 24 hours, applying poultices of moistened bentonite clay will help continue to draw venom and bacteria and will speed healing at the wound site.
Our world is teeming with creeping, crawling, and flying creatures, some of which administer venomous bites and stings. Don’t be ruled by fear – simply be prepared.
Prepper’s Shopping List:Food-grade diatomaceous earthSaline solutionAntihistamineArnica montanaEchinaceaVitamin CActivated charcoalBentonite clay
Resources for Learning About Venomous SpeciesCenter for Disease Control – www.bt.cdc.govSociety for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles – www.ssarherps.orgU.S. National Library of Medicine – www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency
www.readmota.com
Photo by John A Carlisle Photography ©2012Scenario: You have survived the apocalypse. Yippee! Now you have to survive the post-apocalypse. Yikes. There is still a world of dangers out there, and you may have little or no access to medical help. What to do…
Knowing and understanding a danger is the first step to facing that danger. If TV and movies are your main sources of information on venomous animals and insects, it’s time for some re-education. Popular culture has supplied a lot of incorrect information about venomous creatures, and you may be surprised to learn how minimal the danger really is. Hopefully, learning more about venomous species will both put your mind at ease and motivate you to be as prepared as you can be for the unlikely event of a potentially deadly bite or sting.
The first information you need to learn is what venomous species live in your area. Know what they look like. Learn their behavior and their habitat. Are they nocturnal? Seasonal? How do they administer their venom? It may comfort you to know that most snakes are not venomous, and in most areas of the world, snakebites are rare. Typically, venomous species will not chase or seek you out but will only attack if they feel threatened.
Research venom-related injury and death rates in your area. Many snakebites are “dry,” meaning no venom is injected. Most scorpions have relatively mild venom, no worse than a bee sting. You’re probably more likely to be hit by lightning or win the lottery (or survive the apocalypse?) than to be bitten by, let alone die from, a venomous creature.
Knowing what you’re up against will help you prevent your possible exposure. In addition to knowing what is living in your region, consider your post-apocalyptic lifestyle risk. Bugging out and being on the move may put you at higher risk than homesteading. Living in a rural area or near the edge of town may bring you closer to nature and all the hazards therein. On the other hand, don’t let fear drive you to Manhattan apartment living – that’s where the plague, robots, zombies and/or aliens are more likely to be.
If you’re staying put, there are many things you can do to decrease the possibility of a venomous creature gaining access to your property.
To keep spiders, scorpions and other insects at bay, a sprinkling of food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) around your property on a regular basis will do the trick. DE is made up of fine particles of fossil shell that give creatures with an exoskeleton (a hard, outer shell) microscopic cuts that cause them to dehydrate and die. DE is incredibly effective and perfectly safe. DE can be purchased at some feed stores or online. Use food-grade DE because non-food-grade DE contains toxic chemicals. DE doesn’t go bad, so stock up.
To discourage snakes, keep in mind the kinds of habitat that snakes in your area prefer. Keep the area around your property free of weeds, debris and holes that snakes might use as a hideout or den. If snakes are a common hazard, consider building a block wall around your property. If you already have a block wall, look for holes or cracks that should be sealed. Water and food are major attractants for unwanted pests. Snakes have been known to keep pets away from their own water bowl. Elevating water bowls or provide water through a large drip waterer over a drain, and be sure to clean up any leftover food.
Despite all efforts, the worst can happen and you could fall prey to a venomous bite or sting. If you are bitten or stung, quickly move away from the creature to avoid any continuing threat. Unless you need to remove it from your property, do not attempt to capture or kill the creature. This will only increase your own risk of getting attacked.
Learn what happens after envenomation (injection of venom). Symptoms will vary from individual to individual, may appear within minutes or not for hours, and will vary depending on the origin of the bite/sting and the amount of venom injected. If you are doing everything you can to keep your immune system healthy and strong, you may survive and not even get very sick.
What will you do if medical care is not immediately available? You should consider what first aid you will administer if help is unavailable. If you want some amusement, search online for rattlesnake bite folk remedies, and you’ll find everything from rubbing raw onions to applying the raw side of a freshly slain chicken to the bite. In reality you can do more harm than good in applying first aid if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Old school first aid for snakebites would have you cutting through the skin, sucking out the venom and applying tourniquets. Now the Center for Disease Control would have you do none of these things. Modern advice is to keep immobile if possible because the faster the heart pumps, the quicker the venom moves through the body toward the heart where it can do the most damage. Cutting and sucking remove very little venom and just cause greater tissue damage and risk for infection. Tourniquets are usually improperly applied and end up causing limb loss, infection and gangrene, practically a death sentence in our post-apocalyptic scenario.
Other things you should not do for snakebite include applying ice or eating food. The most important thing you should do is not panic. Panic, or even just elevated stress, will cause the heartbeat to rise. Stay calm. Snakebites do not commonly lead to death.
Cleanse scorpion sting and spider bite wounds with clean water or saline solution. In any bite/sting, a severe allergic reaction is possible, so you may want to take an antihistamine such as Benadryl.
There are a few first aid oral remedies that will do no harm and may actually help. The homeopathic remedy, arnica montana, is an effective remedy for any injury to reduce pain and speed healing. Echinacea and vitamin C will help support the immune system. These remedies can be taken right away and regularly until you’re fully recovered.
A first aid remedy that has been successfully used for all venomous bites and stings is powdered, activated charcoal. As a poultice it can be applied directly to the bite/sting wound to draw out and neutralize the venom. Activated charcoal can also be mixed in water and taken internally. Numerous studies and testimonials bear out the amazing properties of activated charcoal in counteracting toxic substances including venom. Buy food-grade, powdered, activated charcoal (not the kind for your barbeque), and keep it on hand.
Activated charcoal is most effective during the first 24 hours after envenomation. After 24 hours, applying poultices of moistened bentonite clay will help continue to draw venom and bacteria and will speed healing at the wound site.
Our world is teeming with creeping, crawling, and flying creatures, some of which administer venomous bites and stings. Don’t be ruled by fear – simply be prepared.
Prepper’s Shopping List:Food-grade diatomaceous earthSaline solutionAntihistamineArnica montanaEchinaceaVitamin CActivated charcoalBentonite clay
Resources for Learning About Venomous SpeciesCenter for Disease Control – www.bt.cdc.govSociety for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles – www.ssarherps.orgU.S. National Library of Medicine – www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency
www.readmota.com
March 12, 2015
Guest Post: Apocalyptic Childbirth
by Lucy Ferguson, Professional Midwife
If the apocalypse happens, will people be prepared for childbirth outside of hospitals? How will people have healthy, low risk pregnancies and births without high-tech equipment and doctors that specialize in obstetrics? How did our ancestors survive without those things? I mean can you imagine getting pregnant, carrying a baby to term, and delivering outside a hospital with no drugs? Not many women can imagine that these days. They "need" to have tests to tell them everything is ok and that their body is working correctly. They "need" ultrasounds to see inside the womb, to see that everything is developing correctly and to find out if the baby is a boy or a girl. They "need" to have exams to tell them their baby is growing and to "help" predict when baby will come. Then during birth, they "need" to have drugs to cope with the pain. They "need" fetal monitors to make sure baby deals well with labor (and drugs that may have been given during labor). They "need" a doctor to cut their perineum so that baby can exit their body. They may even "need" tools (like a vacuum extractor or forceps) to help baby to exit. They "need" baby to be placed under heat lamps to maintain a good body temp, and if baby doesn't nurse within minutes of birth, they may "need" sugar water or formula to ensure baby lives.
Granted, some of these technologies are nice, and there is no doubt that they have saved some lives. But babies can be conceived, grow, and be born with much, much less. So, during apocalyptic days, when conditions would definitely not be ideal, women would seek out help from each other, from grandmothers, mothers, sisters, aunts, and friends. They would go back in time to days when women helped women birth babies. At first they would learn from doing, but as time went on, perhaps they would come across books about obstetrics, learn from them. They would learn from each other. Women would get pregnant, nourish their bodies and babies as best they could with what they could find. They would expect baby to come when baby is ready, not when someone else says baby is ready. When labor starts, they would seek other women (and men) in their life to support them, take care of them, and be with them throughout the labor process. They might use things such as comforting words, touch, moving their bodies, and their own intuitions to get through labor. Babies would be delivered by their mom as someone else catches the baby, instead of the baby being delivered by someone else. Babies would be put on their mom's chest, skin to skin, where warmth and bonding would occur. Babies would smell their mommy and look for her breast, latch and nurse without help from others.
Back to basics, back to... perhaps the way it was meant to be. Perhaps in this one way, the apocalypse might not be so bad...........
www.readmota.com
If the apocalypse happens, will people be prepared for childbirth outside of hospitals? How will people have healthy, low risk pregnancies and births without high-tech equipment and doctors that specialize in obstetrics? How did our ancestors survive without those things? I mean can you imagine getting pregnant, carrying a baby to term, and delivering outside a hospital with no drugs? Not many women can imagine that these days. They "need" to have tests to tell them everything is ok and that their body is working correctly. They "need" ultrasounds to see inside the womb, to see that everything is developing correctly and to find out if the baby is a boy or a girl. They "need" to have exams to tell them their baby is growing and to "help" predict when baby will come. Then during birth, they "need" to have drugs to cope with the pain. They "need" fetal monitors to make sure baby deals well with labor (and drugs that may have been given during labor). They "need" a doctor to cut their perineum so that baby can exit their body. They may even "need" tools (like a vacuum extractor or forceps) to help baby to exit. They "need" baby to be placed under heat lamps to maintain a good body temp, and if baby doesn't nurse within minutes of birth, they may "need" sugar water or formula to ensure baby lives.
Granted, some of these technologies are nice, and there is no doubt that they have saved some lives. But babies can be conceived, grow, and be born with much, much less. So, during apocalyptic days, when conditions would definitely not be ideal, women would seek out help from each other, from grandmothers, mothers, sisters, aunts, and friends. They would go back in time to days when women helped women birth babies. At first they would learn from doing, but as time went on, perhaps they would come across books about obstetrics, learn from them. They would learn from each other. Women would get pregnant, nourish their bodies and babies as best they could with what they could find. They would expect baby to come when baby is ready, not when someone else says baby is ready. When labor starts, they would seek other women (and men) in their life to support them, take care of them, and be with them throughout the labor process. They might use things such as comforting words, touch, moving their bodies, and their own intuitions to get through labor. Babies would be delivered by their mom as someone else catches the baby, instead of the baby being delivered by someone else. Babies would be put on their mom's chest, skin to skin, where warmth and bonding would occur. Babies would smell their mommy and look for her breast, latch and nurse without help from others.
Back to basics, back to... perhaps the way it was meant to be. Perhaps in this one way, the apocalypse might not be so bad...........
www.readmota.com
March 11, 2015
Book Review: Stocking Up
by C. Henry Martens
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I’m not particularly interested in what I consider to be expensive “how to” books.Stocking Up: The Third Edition of America's Classic Preserving Guideby Carol Hupping is an exception. At almost twenty bucks this book is worth the money, and then some.
First, the way the book is laid out makes it easy to use. I did a little tab creating with some tape and a few cut pieces of paper so I can go right to what, for me, are the important parts. That makes it even easier, as the book has so much information.
A short run down on what is covered:
Veggies and fruits Harvest Freezing Canning Drying Underground storage Bottled and canned preserves Juicing Recipes
Dairy foods Storing Butter Cheese Yogurt and other fermented products Ice cream Recipes
Meats, poultry, fish Preparation Freezing Canning Drying Recipes
Nuts, seeds, grains, and sprouts Harvest Preparation Storage Recipes
The book covers a huge territory in concise, easy to use language. It is a must for anyone with a garden, root cellar, or wishing to learn food preservation. There is so much in it that I was surprised at many of the things I learned. With this book and a good garden there is little necessity for visiting the supermarket.
www.readmota.com
[image error] [image error]
I’m not particularly interested in what I consider to be expensive “how to” books.Stocking Up: The Third Edition of America's Classic Preserving Guideby Carol Hupping is an exception. At almost twenty bucks this book is worth the money, and then some.
First, the way the book is laid out makes it easy to use. I did a little tab creating with some tape and a few cut pieces of paper so I can go right to what, for me, are the important parts. That makes it even easier, as the book has so much information.
A short run down on what is covered:
Veggies and fruits Harvest Freezing Canning Drying Underground storage Bottled and canned preserves Juicing Recipes
Dairy foods Storing Butter Cheese Yogurt and other fermented products Ice cream Recipes
Meats, poultry, fish Preparation Freezing Canning Drying Recipes
Nuts, seeds, grains, and sprouts Harvest Preparation Storage Recipes
The book covers a huge territory in concise, easy to use language. It is a must for anyone with a garden, root cellar, or wishing to learn food preservation. There is so much in it that I was surprised at many of the things I learned. With this book and a good garden there is little necessity for visiting the supermarket.
www.readmota.com
March 10, 2015
Wood: The Alternative Energy Source of the Apocalypse
by C. Henry Martens
With the priority to survive and not freeze to death, you don’t want to waste your money or sweat on stocking up a large pile of wood that offers the least value in real terms. The factors in deciding what wood qualifies for your needs might follow:It has to burn.Must be available (or can be made so) in manageable pieces.Most heat for your effort.Everything else is subjective. Sparks, not around combustible materials. Smoke, not in a space with no way to vent it. Etc.
Some things to consider:
High output wood, 24K million BTUs per cord, are approximately equal to 200-250 gallons of fuel oil or 250-300 cubic feet of natural gas.
Green or dry? Green wood is harder to start, keep going, and makes more smoke and sparks, but it lasts longer. I like a mix and use both in the same fire once it is started with dry wood. Dry puts out more heat. Once you learn to stoke a fire in a stove properly, you will find out how to identify and mix moisture contents so the fire will last all night, or even a couple of days in the right kind of stove.
If you are going away and want some warmth or coals on your return, learn to stoke a fire to last over time. Learn to use the proper mix of green to dry wood for the space you are filling, as well as how to damp down the air so the fire will keep going but not burn all of your wood into ash.
A cord of wood is 4 by 4 by 8 feet. An eight foot pickup bed should be filled to heaping, well over the sides in the center. And keep in mind that a cord can be loosely stacked or tightly stacked. A loose cord is probably 20% less wood than a well stacked cord. Cut or buy lengths that fit your stove properly. If they are too long you will have to cut them, if too short you will have too much air in your stove.
Hardwoods generally have higher BTUs. They are usually heavier and also have less creosote than soft woods. They burn slower and produce little ash. There are exceptions. Walnut produces a lot of ash and not much heat from my experience. Pines and cedars start easily, so I like it for kindling. They also like to spark and pop, so I like them with a good fireplace screen for an attractive blaze on an evening with company over. That might not be a good idea if your company has PTSD from being in the ME.
My favorite hardwoods for heat are White Oak, Blue Beech, Black Birch, Bitternut Hickory, and Hard Maple. These will all burn a long time if properly stacked in your stove, or come close to turning your stove red with heat. You can use them exclusively, or along with softwoods. I stay away from Black Locust because it doesn’t start easily in large pieces and is death to a good edge on your axe. Shagbark Hickory is harder to split. Cottonwood is soft, but considered a hardwood. I wouldn’t use it unless desperate. It has little heat, lots of ash, and it is hard to split as the grain can go anywhere.
My choices for softwoods are… all of those that I have tried. We are speaking of conifers, evergreens. As long as they aren’t full of knots, they all split well, and start easily when dry. They put out some fierce heat if dry, and fireworks if green. I would not choose to use these woods exclusively, if possible.
Some people cure various things by smoking them. I have little experience with that so will decline most comments. I understand that fruitwoods and other scented woods are popular, though, so do some homework. I’m planning to learn eventually. I love smoked fish.
Moisture content affects results. Firewood should be well seasoned and dry for its optimum BTU rating. When you are hauling wood, dry will be much lighter than green. By weight, most woods pound for pound, produce similar BTUs. Firewood is easier to split while it is still green.
Wood Type
Heat Output
Ease to Burn
Ease to Split
Amount of Smoke
Sparks
MBTUs per Cord Rating Alder Medium Fair Yes Medium Yes 17.6 Fair Apple Medium No No Medium Few 17.6 Fair Ash Black Medium Yes Yes No No 19.1 Mil Excellent Ash Green High Yes Yes No No 20.0 Excellent Ash White High Yes Medium Np No 23.6 Excellent Aspen Low Yes Yes Medium No 14.5 Fair Basswood Low Yes Yes Medium No 12.6 Fair Beech High Yes Yes No No 21.8 Excellent Beech Blue High Yes Yes No No 26.8 Excellent Birch Black High Yes Yes No Medium
26.8 Excellent Birch Grey High Yes Yes No Medium
20.3 Good Birch Paper High Medium Medium Medium No 20.8 Fair Birch White High Medium Medium Medium Medium
20.3 Good Birch Yellow High Yes Yes No Medium
23.6 Excellent Box Elder Medium Medium No Medium No 18.3 Fair Buckeye Ohio Low Medium Medium No No 13.8 Fair Butternut Low Medium Yes Medium No 14.5 Fair Catalpa Low Medium No Medium No 15.5 Fair Cedar Eastern Red Medium Medium Medium Medium Yes 17.1 Fair Cedar Eastern Red Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cedar Western Red
Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cedar White Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cherry Medium Yes Yes No No 18.5 Good Cherry Black Medium Yes Yes No No 18.6 Good Chestnut Low Yes Yes Medium Yes
Poor Coffeetree
Kentucky High Medium Medium No No 21.6 Good Cottonwood Low Yes Yes Medium No 12.2 Fair Cypress Medium Medium Yes Medium No
Fair Dogwood High Yes Yes No No 24.3 Excellent Elm American High Medium No Medium No 20.00 Fair Elm Red High Medium Yes Medium No 21.6 Good Elm Rock High Medium No Medium No 23.5 Good Elm Siberian High Medium No Medium No 20.9 Fair Fir Douglas High Yes Yes Yes Yes 21.4 Good Fir(s) True Low Medium Yes Medium No 19.5 Fair Gum Black Medium Medium No Medium No 18.1 Fair Gum Sweet Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium 18.7 Good Hackberry High Yes Yes No No 21.2 Excellent Hickory Bitternut High Yes Yes No No 26.7 Excellent Hickory Shagbark High Yes Medium No No 27.5 Excellent Ironwood
(Hornbeam) Very
High Yes No No Few 24.7 Excellent Juniper Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes
Good Larch Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 20.8 Fair Locust Black Very
High Yes No No No 26.5 Fair Locust Honey High Yes Medium No No 25.8 Good Madrone High No No No No 30.0 Excellent Magnolia Medium Yes Yes No No 18.0 Fair Maple Hard High Yes Yes No No 29.7 Excellent Maple Soft Medium Yes Yes No No 19.1 Good Mesquite High Medium No Medium No
Good Mulberry High Yes Yes Medium No 25.8 Excellent Oak Live High Yes Yes No No 25.0 Excellent Oak Red High Yes Yes No No 21.7 Excellent Oak White High Yes Yes No No 26.5 Excellent Pecan High Yes Yes No No
Excellent Pine Eastern White Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Pine Pinyon Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes
Good Pine Ponderosa Low Medium Yes Medium No 17.0 Fair Pine Southern Yellow
High Yes Yes Yes Yes
Good Pine Sugar Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Pine Western White
Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Poplar Yellow Low Yes Yes Medium Yes 16.0 Poor Redwood Medium Medium Yes Medium No
Fair Spruce Low Yes Yes Medium Yes 15.9 Poor Sycamore Medium Medium No Medium No 18.5 Fair Tamarack Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 20.8 Fair Walnut Medium Yes Yes No No 20.3 Fair Willow Low No Yes Fair Fair 14.5 Fair
www.readmota.com
With the priority to survive and not freeze to death, you don’t want to waste your money or sweat on stocking up a large pile of wood that offers the least value in real terms. The factors in deciding what wood qualifies for your needs might follow:It has to burn.Must be available (or can be made so) in manageable pieces.Most heat for your effort.Everything else is subjective. Sparks, not around combustible materials. Smoke, not in a space with no way to vent it. Etc.
Some things to consider:
High output wood, 24K million BTUs per cord, are approximately equal to 200-250 gallons of fuel oil or 250-300 cubic feet of natural gas.
Green or dry? Green wood is harder to start, keep going, and makes more smoke and sparks, but it lasts longer. I like a mix and use both in the same fire once it is started with dry wood. Dry puts out more heat. Once you learn to stoke a fire in a stove properly, you will find out how to identify and mix moisture contents so the fire will last all night, or even a couple of days in the right kind of stove.
If you are going away and want some warmth or coals on your return, learn to stoke a fire to last over time. Learn to use the proper mix of green to dry wood for the space you are filling, as well as how to damp down the air so the fire will keep going but not burn all of your wood into ash.
A cord of wood is 4 by 4 by 8 feet. An eight foot pickup bed should be filled to heaping, well over the sides in the center. And keep in mind that a cord can be loosely stacked or tightly stacked. A loose cord is probably 20% less wood than a well stacked cord. Cut or buy lengths that fit your stove properly. If they are too long you will have to cut them, if too short you will have too much air in your stove.
Hardwoods generally have higher BTUs. They are usually heavier and also have less creosote than soft woods. They burn slower and produce little ash. There are exceptions. Walnut produces a lot of ash and not much heat from my experience. Pines and cedars start easily, so I like it for kindling. They also like to spark and pop, so I like them with a good fireplace screen for an attractive blaze on an evening with company over. That might not be a good idea if your company has PTSD from being in the ME.
My favorite hardwoods for heat are White Oak, Blue Beech, Black Birch, Bitternut Hickory, and Hard Maple. These will all burn a long time if properly stacked in your stove, or come close to turning your stove red with heat. You can use them exclusively, or along with softwoods. I stay away from Black Locust because it doesn’t start easily in large pieces and is death to a good edge on your axe. Shagbark Hickory is harder to split. Cottonwood is soft, but considered a hardwood. I wouldn’t use it unless desperate. It has little heat, lots of ash, and it is hard to split as the grain can go anywhere.
My choices for softwoods are… all of those that I have tried. We are speaking of conifers, evergreens. As long as they aren’t full of knots, they all split well, and start easily when dry. They put out some fierce heat if dry, and fireworks if green. I would not choose to use these woods exclusively, if possible.
Some people cure various things by smoking them. I have little experience with that so will decline most comments. I understand that fruitwoods and other scented woods are popular, though, so do some homework. I’m planning to learn eventually. I love smoked fish.
Moisture content affects results. Firewood should be well seasoned and dry for its optimum BTU rating. When you are hauling wood, dry will be much lighter than green. By weight, most woods pound for pound, produce similar BTUs. Firewood is easier to split while it is still green.
Wood Type
Heat Output
Ease to Burn
Ease to Split
Amount of Smoke
Sparks
MBTUs per Cord Rating Alder Medium Fair Yes Medium Yes 17.6 Fair Apple Medium No No Medium Few 17.6 Fair Ash Black Medium Yes Yes No No 19.1 Mil Excellent Ash Green High Yes Yes No No 20.0 Excellent Ash White High Yes Medium Np No 23.6 Excellent Aspen Low Yes Yes Medium No 14.5 Fair Basswood Low Yes Yes Medium No 12.6 Fair Beech High Yes Yes No No 21.8 Excellent Beech Blue High Yes Yes No No 26.8 Excellent Birch Black High Yes Yes No Medium
26.8 Excellent Birch Grey High Yes Yes No Medium
20.3 Good Birch Paper High Medium Medium Medium No 20.8 Fair Birch White High Medium Medium Medium Medium
20.3 Good Birch Yellow High Yes Yes No Medium
23.6 Excellent Box Elder Medium Medium No Medium No 18.3 Fair Buckeye Ohio Low Medium Medium No No 13.8 Fair Butternut Low Medium Yes Medium No 14.5 Fair Catalpa Low Medium No Medium No 15.5 Fair Cedar Eastern Red Medium Medium Medium Medium Yes 17.1 Fair Cedar Eastern Red Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cedar Western Red
Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cedar White Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 17.5 Good Cherry Medium Yes Yes No No 18.5 Good Cherry Black Medium Yes Yes No No 18.6 Good Chestnut Low Yes Yes Medium Yes
Poor Coffeetree
Kentucky High Medium Medium No No 21.6 Good Cottonwood Low Yes Yes Medium No 12.2 Fair Cypress Medium Medium Yes Medium No
Fair Dogwood High Yes Yes No No 24.3 Excellent Elm American High Medium No Medium No 20.00 Fair Elm Red High Medium Yes Medium No 21.6 Good Elm Rock High Medium No Medium No 23.5 Good Elm Siberian High Medium No Medium No 20.9 Fair Fir Douglas High Yes Yes Yes Yes 21.4 Good Fir(s) True Low Medium Yes Medium No 19.5 Fair Gum Black Medium Medium No Medium No 18.1 Fair Gum Sweet Medium Medium Medium Medium Medium 18.7 Good Hackberry High Yes Yes No No 21.2 Excellent Hickory Bitternut High Yes Yes No No 26.7 Excellent Hickory Shagbark High Yes Medium No No 27.5 Excellent Ironwood
(Hornbeam) Very
High Yes No No Few 24.7 Excellent Juniper Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes
Good Larch Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 20.8 Fair Locust Black Very
High Yes No No No 26.5 Fair Locust Honey High Yes Medium No No 25.8 Good Madrone High No No No No 30.0 Excellent Magnolia Medium Yes Yes No No 18.0 Fair Maple Hard High Yes Yes No No 29.7 Excellent Maple Soft Medium Yes Yes No No 19.1 Good Mesquite High Medium No Medium No
Good Mulberry High Yes Yes Medium No 25.8 Excellent Oak Live High Yes Yes No No 25.0 Excellent Oak Red High Yes Yes No No 21.7 Excellent Oak White High Yes Yes No No 26.5 Excellent Pecan High Yes Yes No No
Excellent Pine Eastern White Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Pine Pinyon Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes
Good Pine Ponderosa Low Medium Yes Medium No 17.0 Fair Pine Southern Yellow
High Yes Yes Yes Yes
Good Pine Sugar Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Pine Western White
Low Medium Yes Medium No 15.8 Fair Poplar Yellow Low Yes Yes Medium Yes 16.0 Poor Redwood Medium Medium Yes Medium No
Fair Spruce Low Yes Yes Medium Yes 15.9 Poor Sycamore Medium Medium No Medium No 18.5 Fair Tamarack Medium Yes Yes Medium Yes 20.8 Fair Walnut Medium Yes Yes No No 20.3 Fair Willow Low No Yes Fair Fair 14.5 Fair
www.readmota.com
February 18, 2015
Review: Ozark Trail 6-person instant tent
by C. Henry Martens
We gave our expensive tent to one of our kids after we “came of age” and decided to stop sleeping on the ground. So we had nothing to tent in for some years. Then we got a wild hair and decided that we could go tenting again, rather than pull a trailer for one-nighters.
We had two criteria: Cheap enough to throw away, and easy to use.
Our local Wally World supplied this option. It was less than a hundred bucks, so not too expensive if we decided it was a mistake, and it can always double as a spare room for the grand kids.
As to utility, I’ve been pleasantly surprised so far.
First, the down side. The tent comes in a pretty big bag. It measures at least 8 X 8 X 44 inches when put away for transport. It claims to sleep six people, but unless one is under four feet tall, it would not without some substantial “squishage.” And that is without any gear inside. There is no way I would suggest any more than four, and that is going to be more or less crowded. Construction hasn’t been an issue, yet… but we don’t expect much of the fabric, used over time and exposure to the elements. The metal poles are light weight, but there again we suspect they are also weak. The joining parts are plastic. They look and feel flimsy.
The upside is pretty good as of this writing. That big bag is small if carried in a vehicle. It fits nicely in the back of a truck or on the rear deck of a UTV. The tent goes up much more quickly and easily than any other I have owned. This includes some dome tents that went up in minutes.
The tent comes attached to the tent poles and doesn’t need to be separated for any reason. Erecting it takes seconds, only needing to unfold the package and lift the four corner poles in order to extend them until they “click” into place. Throw the rain fly on and you are done, unless you want to stake it down. It comes with some cheap stakes and some cord on the rain fly for securing it to whatever you deem necessary, but it is free standing. Throw your gear inside, and barring a high wind, it will be there.
It has two large screened, zippered windows, and a large, zippered door that gets out of the way, and has toggles to hold it back. Toggles are nice… they work better than ties. There are some small loops inside at the top to hang things from. Other than that the tent is pretty basic. The floor is a water “proof”(?) material similar to those cheap plastic canvases that fall apart when exposed to what you bought them for as protection. But, so far, the floor has stayed intact. The carry bag has a floor repair kit included. The tent is tall enough that a six foot person can stand up comfortably, centered inside.
Breaking the tent down and storing it is marginally more difficult than erecting it. But only because you have to get the air out and make sure you fold things tightly. Everything collapses and folds into an easily stored and compact bundle, once in the bag.
Is this a tent I would backpack with? No, take a good rain cloth instead. Is this a tent I would bug out with in a vehicle? Barring having anything of higher quality, you bet.
www.readmota.com
We gave our expensive tent to one of our kids after we “came of age” and decided to stop sleeping on the ground. So we had nothing to tent in for some years. Then we got a wild hair and decided that we could go tenting again, rather than pull a trailer for one-nighters.
We had two criteria: Cheap enough to throw away, and easy to use.
Our local Wally World supplied this option. It was less than a hundred bucks, so not too expensive if we decided it was a mistake, and it can always double as a spare room for the grand kids.
As to utility, I’ve been pleasantly surprised so far.
First, the down side. The tent comes in a pretty big bag. It measures at least 8 X 8 X 44 inches when put away for transport. It claims to sleep six people, but unless one is under four feet tall, it would not without some substantial “squishage.” And that is without any gear inside. There is no way I would suggest any more than four, and that is going to be more or less crowded. Construction hasn’t been an issue, yet… but we don’t expect much of the fabric, used over time and exposure to the elements. The metal poles are light weight, but there again we suspect they are also weak. The joining parts are plastic. They look and feel flimsy.
The upside is pretty good as of this writing. That big bag is small if carried in a vehicle. It fits nicely in the back of a truck or on the rear deck of a UTV. The tent goes up much more quickly and easily than any other I have owned. This includes some dome tents that went up in minutes.
The tent comes attached to the tent poles and doesn’t need to be separated for any reason. Erecting it takes seconds, only needing to unfold the package and lift the four corner poles in order to extend them until they “click” into place. Throw the rain fly on and you are done, unless you want to stake it down. It comes with some cheap stakes and some cord on the rain fly for securing it to whatever you deem necessary, but it is free standing. Throw your gear inside, and barring a high wind, it will be there.
It has two large screened, zippered windows, and a large, zippered door that gets out of the way, and has toggles to hold it back. Toggles are nice… they work better than ties. There are some small loops inside at the top to hang things from. Other than that the tent is pretty basic. The floor is a water “proof”(?) material similar to those cheap plastic canvases that fall apart when exposed to what you bought them for as protection. But, so far, the floor has stayed intact. The carry bag has a floor repair kit included. The tent is tall enough that a six foot person can stand up comfortably, centered inside.
Breaking the tent down and storing it is marginally more difficult than erecting it. But only because you have to get the air out and make sure you fold things tightly. Everything collapses and folds into an easily stored and compact bundle, once in the bag.
Is this a tent I would backpack with? No, take a good rain cloth instead. Is this a tent I would bug out with in a vehicle? Barring having anything of higher quality, you bet.
www.readmota.com
February 17, 2015
What will you Trade when Money is no good?
by C. Henry Martens
In a situation where the manufacture and distribution of necessities becomes problematic or ceases completely, a well stocked larder will become critical. Assuming you can defend what you have, there may be some things that you require, as well.
I’m sure you would expect to stock what you need, but isn’t there always some kind of necessity that you didn’t anticipate? Some little thing, maybe critical, maybe not, that you wish you had thought of? Or something that you ran out of, planning on restocking on the next trip to the store… and you’ve forgotten for the last year? A critical component of your larder, or your security arrangements, or even just something you desire but don’t have to have? Comfort food? Twinkies?
Okay, so maybe Hostess cupcakes or Little Debbies aren’t high priority in your life, but are they in someone’s? I would bet that they are. The real trick is to find things that trade best in the right situation.
So what are the criteria in choosing trade goods that will bring you the best return in apocalypse? Perhaps we should define “best return.” Any best return in a survival situation is something that keeps you alive and benefits you in the long term. You are looking to acquire water, food, shelter, warmth, or maybe ammunition. Essentials. What you have to trade are… what?
First, overstock your larder. Anything critical to you will be critical to others. Water and food are great to have in quantity, unless you have to move. Then that overstock becomes trade goods. Even in a rationing situation you may find that a smart trade can improve your possibilities. I would trade my last can of anything for two equal size cans of Spam in a heartbeat.
If you are a hoarder of weapons, they become trade goods… maybe. A prudent trade to a person that has proved their worth as a neighbor or fellow survivor, someone you feel you can count on to have your back, may be worth taking a chance on. But handing a loaded shotgun to a hungry person that is eyeing you as food, even when they are offering you something greatly desired, may be problematic. I have mixed feelings about having large amounts of weaponry. I’m not likely to gather an army under my control, and if I felt that way I would likely be wrong anyway. That means that a wealth of weapons is likely to put a target on the owner’s back.
I like to stock a few things that I know have little value to me, but have great value to others. Vacuum packed and frozen cigarettes or chew comes to mind. I’ve met people that would trade their daughter’s virtue for a cigarette. My point being that if you aren’t an addict, stock something that people are addicted to. Alcohol springs to mind as well. Be ready to hide these kinds of things so the addicts don’t know you have them. I would suggest that you “find” them, one at a time, and never trade with the same person twice unless you have a way to defend what you have. If you can’t defend, give them away and live to trade something else another day.
Camping equipment if people are on the move will be attractive, but difficult to have in quantities to trade. Anything light enough to carry and useful on the trail will be easy to part with if you have more than enough for yourself. Water purification tablets and fire starting materials, weatherproof matches, butane lighters, flint and steel kits will be in demand. Maps and light books on survival may be worth having. I like books on edible local plants.
Pharmaceuticals are a great bet in high density populations. Powdered antibiotics, antifungals, antibacterials, and other forms of dried-to-be-reconstituted medications have tremendous value. These kinds of things may save a life, and if given freely may fertilize a loyalty that can help you should you need a friend. Medications intended for animal use have value when the better stuff runs out, and they are cheap enough to stock up on.
All of the things mentioned so far have value in all scenarios to some extent. You can’t be mobile and carry any quantities, but each has a place in a bug out pack. If you can hunker down in place, you can become a trading center with the right goods. The question then becomes if you can secure what you have.
A few thoughts on what can be especially valued in a stable location:
Water purification, chemicals or equipmentSeed, preferably heritage so seed from the crops will breed trueTraps, and/or snaresFishing gear, keep it simpleFuels, gasoline, propane, wood, almost anythingAnimal feedsTools, simple hand tools, axe, hoe and gardening fork, scythe, primitive survival equipment Books, anything on food preservation, edible wild plants, hand crafted necessities, looms, etc. Be prepared to have the ability to copy so you can keep the originals.
Things that may be in short supply quickly, so be aware of where you can get them quickly.
Riding animalsSmall animals for breeding as food, chickens, rabbits, even guinea pigs and rats.Saddles and bridles, harness, there are more horses than equipment to ride them.Carts, anything with wheels that can be pulled by an animal, including dogs or humans.Fuels
One of the things that many people seem to value highly in survival situations is hard currency. That means gold or silver. I don’t. There is always a possibility people will trade for it, but if they are hungry, or thirsty, or cold… they will be looking at what you have to eat, drink, or stay warm.
Good luck.
www.readmota.com
In a situation where the manufacture and distribution of necessities becomes problematic or ceases completely, a well stocked larder will become critical. Assuming you can defend what you have, there may be some things that you require, as well.
I’m sure you would expect to stock what you need, but isn’t there always some kind of necessity that you didn’t anticipate? Some little thing, maybe critical, maybe not, that you wish you had thought of? Or something that you ran out of, planning on restocking on the next trip to the store… and you’ve forgotten for the last year? A critical component of your larder, or your security arrangements, or even just something you desire but don’t have to have? Comfort food? Twinkies?
Okay, so maybe Hostess cupcakes or Little Debbies aren’t high priority in your life, but are they in someone’s? I would bet that they are. The real trick is to find things that trade best in the right situation.
So what are the criteria in choosing trade goods that will bring you the best return in apocalypse? Perhaps we should define “best return.” Any best return in a survival situation is something that keeps you alive and benefits you in the long term. You are looking to acquire water, food, shelter, warmth, or maybe ammunition. Essentials. What you have to trade are… what?
First, overstock your larder. Anything critical to you will be critical to others. Water and food are great to have in quantity, unless you have to move. Then that overstock becomes trade goods. Even in a rationing situation you may find that a smart trade can improve your possibilities. I would trade my last can of anything for two equal size cans of Spam in a heartbeat.
If you are a hoarder of weapons, they become trade goods… maybe. A prudent trade to a person that has proved their worth as a neighbor or fellow survivor, someone you feel you can count on to have your back, may be worth taking a chance on. But handing a loaded shotgun to a hungry person that is eyeing you as food, even when they are offering you something greatly desired, may be problematic. I have mixed feelings about having large amounts of weaponry. I’m not likely to gather an army under my control, and if I felt that way I would likely be wrong anyway. That means that a wealth of weapons is likely to put a target on the owner’s back.
I like to stock a few things that I know have little value to me, but have great value to others. Vacuum packed and frozen cigarettes or chew comes to mind. I’ve met people that would trade their daughter’s virtue for a cigarette. My point being that if you aren’t an addict, stock something that people are addicted to. Alcohol springs to mind as well. Be ready to hide these kinds of things so the addicts don’t know you have them. I would suggest that you “find” them, one at a time, and never trade with the same person twice unless you have a way to defend what you have. If you can’t defend, give them away and live to trade something else another day.
Camping equipment if people are on the move will be attractive, but difficult to have in quantities to trade. Anything light enough to carry and useful on the trail will be easy to part with if you have more than enough for yourself. Water purification tablets and fire starting materials, weatherproof matches, butane lighters, flint and steel kits will be in demand. Maps and light books on survival may be worth having. I like books on edible local plants.
Pharmaceuticals are a great bet in high density populations. Powdered antibiotics, antifungals, antibacterials, and other forms of dried-to-be-reconstituted medications have tremendous value. These kinds of things may save a life, and if given freely may fertilize a loyalty that can help you should you need a friend. Medications intended for animal use have value when the better stuff runs out, and they are cheap enough to stock up on.
All of the things mentioned so far have value in all scenarios to some extent. You can’t be mobile and carry any quantities, but each has a place in a bug out pack. If you can hunker down in place, you can become a trading center with the right goods. The question then becomes if you can secure what you have.
A few thoughts on what can be especially valued in a stable location:
Water purification, chemicals or equipmentSeed, preferably heritage so seed from the crops will breed trueTraps, and/or snaresFishing gear, keep it simpleFuels, gasoline, propane, wood, almost anythingAnimal feedsTools, simple hand tools, axe, hoe and gardening fork, scythe, primitive survival equipment Books, anything on food preservation, edible wild plants, hand crafted necessities, looms, etc. Be prepared to have the ability to copy so you can keep the originals.
Things that may be in short supply quickly, so be aware of where you can get them quickly.
Riding animalsSmall animals for breeding as food, chickens, rabbits, even guinea pigs and rats.Saddles and bridles, harness, there are more horses than equipment to ride them.Carts, anything with wheels that can be pulled by an animal, including dogs or humans.Fuels
One of the things that many people seem to value highly in survival situations is hard currency. That means gold or silver. I don’t. There is always a possibility people will trade for it, but if they are hungry, or thirsty, or cold… they will be looking at what you have to eat, drink, or stay warm.
Good luck.
www.readmota.com
February 13, 2015
Review: Teton Sports Celcius Regular -18/0 Sleeping Bag
by C. Henry Martens
I got very lucky with this one. My wife and I were driving down the road and noticed a round, black fabric bag on the side of the road. We turned around and found a brand new Teton sleeping bag. It pays to keep your eyes open.
We like it so much that my wife wanted one, so we were pleasantly surprised to find it reasonably priced. Why surprised, you ask? Because these bags are high quality. They are well made, designed for versatility, and not expensive.
With a high quality compression bag, not one of those cheap ones that falls apart, the bag is the first thing you notice. It will last, and has convenient straps to attach it to a pack frame. Very nice. The bag itself has a zipper that is difficult to jam, another high quality feature. They are flannel inside, and have a weather resistant fabric outside that stays clean easily. Design is fantastic, with a neck that can be left open, or closed tightly around the shoulders. The top is also versatile as a pillow rest, or drawn tightly to become a mummy style head-enclosing hood. There is also a small, convenient pocket where you can store a phone or perhaps your glasses. They come in several sizes to fit larger or smaller people which made my wife happy. Depending on size, there are a variety of colors, including one with a pink liner which is affiliated with breast cancer awareness. Not sure, maybe they contribute to charity if you buy that bag. My wife liked the color, so she killed two birds with one stone by buying it.
Did I mention they are cheap? As in inexpensive? The beancounters must not have gotten hold of the marketing yet, as these bags could sell at twice the price based on design and quality.
If I were to come up with a gripe it would be difficult. They are not the lightest bags on the market at five pounds. But you have to give up comfort for reduced weight, and it is not something that I would do in this case.
These bags live in the Jeep when they aren’t in use. They are a highly valued part of our bug-out kit.
www.readmota.com
I got very lucky with this one. My wife and I were driving down the road and noticed a round, black fabric bag on the side of the road. We turned around and found a brand new Teton sleeping bag. It pays to keep your eyes open.
We like it so much that my wife wanted one, so we were pleasantly surprised to find it reasonably priced. Why surprised, you ask? Because these bags are high quality. They are well made, designed for versatility, and not expensive.
With a high quality compression bag, not one of those cheap ones that falls apart, the bag is the first thing you notice. It will last, and has convenient straps to attach it to a pack frame. Very nice. The bag itself has a zipper that is difficult to jam, another high quality feature. They are flannel inside, and have a weather resistant fabric outside that stays clean easily. Design is fantastic, with a neck that can be left open, or closed tightly around the shoulders. The top is also versatile as a pillow rest, or drawn tightly to become a mummy style head-enclosing hood. There is also a small, convenient pocket where you can store a phone or perhaps your glasses. They come in several sizes to fit larger or smaller people which made my wife happy. Depending on size, there are a variety of colors, including one with a pink liner which is affiliated with breast cancer awareness. Not sure, maybe they contribute to charity if you buy that bag. My wife liked the color, so she killed two birds with one stone by buying it.
Did I mention they are cheap? As in inexpensive? The beancounters must not have gotten hold of the marketing yet, as these bags could sell at twice the price based on design and quality.
If I were to come up with a gripe it would be difficult. They are not the lightest bags on the market at five pounds. But you have to give up comfort for reduced weight, and it is not something that I would do in this case.
These bags live in the Jeep when they aren’t in use. They are a highly valued part of our bug-out kit.
www.readmota.com
February 12, 2015
Survival Skills: Flintknapping
by Kari Carlisle
In graduate school I took a class called “Lithic Technology.” Lithic meaning stone or rock, and technology meaning, well, nothing like we know technology today – TV, computers, cell phones. In the prehistoric Stone Age chipping rocks into tools was their technology, and after taking that class, I can tell you that it’s just as difficult to make a chipped stone tool (i.e. flintknapping) as it is to program a computer. OK, I suppose that’s apples and oranges, but it’s not easy! There is unquestionably an art and a science to flintknapping.
Flintknappers are definitely artists. I firmly believe it takes some innate artistic ability to envision the tool you want to make from a shapeless rock and then create that tool. Flintknappers have a “feel” for their artistic medium, the rock. They know where to work it and where it will fracture. They have the skill and dexterity to hold the rock just the right way to make the flake curve in just the right direction. Like other artists, flintknappers don’t always create a perfect work. Some are the Michelangelos of flintknapping, and some may end up in the Museum of Bad Art (it’s real, look it up). Most are probably in the middle, and I like to think the stone heart I chipped during my class came out pretty good.
Flintknapping is also very much a science. Flintknappers are geologists and physicists. They know what physical properties make a rock conducive to producing an arrowhead, knife, scraper or drill. They know what tools to use to perform a particular function. They know that heat-treating the rock will make it stronger, unless they’re using obsidian. They know terms like “bulb of percussion” and “debitage.”
If you’re neither an artist nor a scientist, don’t despair. You can still learn the skill just well enough to make rudimentary and useful tools from materials lying around on the ground. If you don’t know anyone who can teach you flintknapping in person, the next best thing is to view some of the gazillion YouTube videos available on the subject. I’ve known people who picked up the skill on their own, just by picking up rocks and practicing.
www.readmota.com
In graduate school I took a class called “Lithic Technology.” Lithic meaning stone or rock, and technology meaning, well, nothing like we know technology today – TV, computers, cell phones. In the prehistoric Stone Age chipping rocks into tools was their technology, and after taking that class, I can tell you that it’s just as difficult to make a chipped stone tool (i.e. flintknapping) as it is to program a computer. OK, I suppose that’s apples and oranges, but it’s not easy! There is unquestionably an art and a science to flintknapping.
Flintknappers are definitely artists. I firmly believe it takes some innate artistic ability to envision the tool you want to make from a shapeless rock and then create that tool. Flintknappers have a “feel” for their artistic medium, the rock. They know where to work it and where it will fracture. They have the skill and dexterity to hold the rock just the right way to make the flake curve in just the right direction. Like other artists, flintknappers don’t always create a perfect work. Some are the Michelangelos of flintknapping, and some may end up in the Museum of Bad Art (it’s real, look it up). Most are probably in the middle, and I like to think the stone heart I chipped during my class came out pretty good.
Flintknapping is also very much a science. Flintknappers are geologists and physicists. They know what physical properties make a rock conducive to producing an arrowhead, knife, scraper or drill. They know what tools to use to perform a particular function. They know that heat-treating the rock will make it stronger, unless they’re using obsidian. They know terms like “bulb of percussion” and “debitage.”
If you’re neither an artist nor a scientist, don’t despair. You can still learn the skill just well enough to make rudimentary and useful tools from materials lying around on the ground. If you don’t know anyone who can teach you flintknapping in person, the next best thing is to view some of the gazillion YouTube videos available on the subject. I’ve known people who picked up the skill on their own, just by picking up rocks and practicing.
www.readmota.com
