Ed Robinson's Blog, page 11

Nautical Novels (Introducing Breeze)

Each book is a work of fiction featuring the character Meade Breeze. He was inspired by Travis McGee from the John D. MacDonald novels. He also has a bit of James Hall’s Thorn character in him. He lives off the grid and under the radar aboard his classic trawler. My personal experience living aboard Leap of Faith in SW Florida and the Keys, gives him direction.

He is not your common hero, in fact, I call him an “anti-hero”. He doesn’t always do the right thing. This tendency lands him in hot water more often than not. He’s on the run from the law. He identifies missions than carries them out. He puts thousands of miles under his keel in search of personal fulfillment and adventure. Each book is an adventure-laden travel guide through Florida, the Bahamas, and the Caribbean. He even travels up the east coast to the Chesapeake Bay.

Follow Breeze and his star-crossed love affairs at the following links:

Trawler Trash: Confessions of a Boat Bum

“Following Breeze” now Available at Amazon

Following Breeze is the sequel to Trawler Trash.

Breeze is on the move again, aboard Leap of Faith. There is trouble lurking in every port. He gets mixed up with a cocaine kingpin, talks his way out of a Cuban jail, and takes on a pretty refugee as a passenger. His trusty trawler takes him from the Keys to the Caribbean, and even to the Chesapeake Bay, where he contemplates turning himself in to the authorities. This is a timely tale that uses current events to shape the storyline; from our diplomatic relations with Cuba, to the social impact of Fifty Shades of Grey.

Robinson has proven himself to be a master of the nautical narrative. His adventure stories are part John D. MacDonald, and part Papa Hemingway. Following Breeze has action to burn. You’ll feel the excitement as the pages turn faster and faster. You’ll feel for Breeze as he struggles with his inner demons. You won’t guess how it ends.

Click the link to purchase. As always, we appreciate your support.

Following Breeze (Trawler Trash Book 2)

The Great Dinghy Debate

There are as many types of dinghies as there are types of big boats. It seems every cruiser has their own idea as to what type of dinghy is the best. Different lifestyles call for different approaches when selecting your tender. If you never leave the dock it doesn’t much matter. If you live at anchor, or travel extensively, it matters a lot.

We prefer a ten foot RIB (rigid inflatable boat) with a 9.9 Mercury 2-stroke outboard. We can get up on plane easily and run 20 mph for long distance trips to the beach. It’s nice to be able to scoot in a hurry when trying to outrace those summer afternoon thunderstorms, or take a two mile run down to Cabbage Key. Inflatables are the most common by far amongst cruisers.

Here’s out boat. It’s also our station wagon, grocery getter and water taxi.

It’s a West Marine brand. I’ve taken an unofficial count here in Boot Key Harbor, and while in other anchorages. West Marine sells more dinghies to cruisers than any other brand. Why is that? They are the least expensive on the market for one. They are also readily available. There is a West Marine store nearby any place that boats gather in great numbers. No freight to pay. No wait for shipping. This is not to say that they are a high quality product, but we’ve been satisfied with ours so far. A good quality brand-named RIB will cost double what our cheapo West model cost. Avon, Apex, IAB, Caribe, etc., all make a nice little boat that will last for many years. Be willing to pay $3500 or more, not counting the motor.

Other inflatables come with a blow-up floor, or slatted wood or aluminum floors. This gives one the ability to “roll up” the dinghy for storage/stowage.

On the other hand, any boaters choose non-inflatable boats made of wood, fiberglass, or plastic. Sizes range from little six-foot rowing dinks to 12 or even 14 foot skiffs and Whalers. These are owned mostly by the people who’ve gotten sick of the leaks and repairs common to inflatables. Hard dinghy owners like to call soft dinghies, “deflatables.”

Motor sizes range from 2 hp on up to 40 hp. Some don’t have motors at all. Quite a few cruisers still row with oars back and forth to the dock. Many times for us, this simply is not an option. You can’t row in the current of Key West for example. I’d never attempt to row 3 miles to get to a beach.

Speaking of outboard motors, there are several differing schools of thought. Newer small 4-strokes in the 2 to 4 hp range are very light compared to my 9.9. They are easier to handle by far. Older couples seem to prefer the little motors. The downside is that they are very slow, and can even be dangerous in high winds or strong current. I remove our outboard when we travel so I can stow the dinghy. It’s hard work. Some boats have davits to lift the dinghy up, so the extra weight isn’t a concern. Some even have cranes! Those are the boats that can handle the bigger tenders like Whalers and skiffs. Other options are electric motors and even propane powered models.

Yet another type available, and we see these all over, are the fold-up boats:

I don’t understand the appeal, personally. I guess it’s another way to avoid the punctures and foot pumps that go along with deflatable ownership.

There is also the kayak/canoe option:



They are much easier to operate than rowing with oars. Easy to stow aboard too. Downside is that you can’t haul a lot of groceries or jerry jugs in them.

Anything that floats can be used as a dinghy. We’ve seen a bunch of different types and styles. Our favorite oddball tender is a paddle boat. It’s owner has well muscled legs.

Sooooooo . . . what do you have, and why did you select it?

No House, No Car, and One Pair of Shoes

Unless you count flip-flops . . . .

Some people call themselves “minimalists” because they cleaned out their closet and donated a bag of clothes to Goodwill. I own exactly one pair of blue jeans. That’s all I need.

Landlubbers build houses with walk-in closets to hold all their clothes. I have six pairs of shorts. All are severely faded from the Florida sun. One of them has a bunch holes, from working with acidic hull cleaner. I don’t care. My entire wardrobe can fit in a pillow case.

My one pair of shoes:

Environmentalists are concerned about the quality and quantity of our water supply. I have monitored our water usage for over three years. It’s always the same. We use three gallons (or less) per day. That’s right, two adults, showering occassionally, drinking, making coffee, flushing, washing dishes, etc. Three gallons per day.

Dirt Dwellers fill their garages, attics, basements, and backyard sheds with STUFF. Everything we own fits inside of a 36 x 12 boat. On the rare occassion when we actually buy some material possession, we have to decide what to get rid of. Something comes on the boat, something will have to come off.

We don’t own a car! Earth-bound souls cannot comprehend this. How can you not have a car? We have a dinghy. It’s our station wagon, pickup truck, grocery getter, and taxi. For anything else, we walk or use public transportation when it’s available. All that walking in only one pair of shoes. I have to confess though, I have three pairs of flip-flops.

One pair I found abandoned in Fort Myers Beach. They were my size so I adopted them.

On trash; We can make one garbage bag last for ten days. How long does it take to fill your garbage bag? A day, maybe two? First thing we do is de-package while on land. All those carboard boxes with a plastic bag inside get discarded. Then we recycle. Plastic bottles and beer cans get separated. We hold them until we find a place to take them. Food scraps go overboard, so the trash can stays relatively clean and doesn’t smell or attract bugs.

Here’s our house:

Nice back yard eh?

Yes we live a simple life. So called modern day Minimalists would have to go a lot further to come close the simplicity that we enjoy. No bills, no job, no worries . . . it’s the life we chose and we have no regrets. We can’t even watch TV here in the Keys! Is it hard sometimes? Of course, it has it’s challenges. Weather, boat repairs and maintenance, occassional boredom. Wouldn’t trade it for a thing. Meanwhile, we hae less impact on the environment than the most devout Greenie. We make our own electricity, we recycle, we conserve, not just water, but everything consumable aboard our boat. I guess you could call us conservationists. We are not alone. The cruising life is filled with solar panels and wind generators. There’s fossil fuel powered generators as well. It’s all part of living, not attached to land.

After almost four years away from land, I can not envision ever going back. I couldn’t give up the freedom. I couldn’t deal with the stress, the noise, the consumerism. No sir, it’s the salty sea for me.

Lobster Traps in the ICW (Florida Keys)

I have a new pet peeve. It’s lobster traps in the ICW. As we are originally from Maryland and have spent a lifetime boating on the Chesapeake Bay, we are familiar with crab pots and the floats that accompany them. However, in Maryland there is a rule prohibiting crab pots from marked channels.

As we cruised the Florida Keys recently, we encountered thousands, if not tens of thousand of lobster traps directly within the marked channel of the ICW. I thought to myself, “Self, there ought to be a law against this.” On most modern GPS/Chartplotters, there is a thing we call the Magenta Line. It designates the center of the ICW channel. We travel it often on the west coast of Florida and never encounter traps or pots of any kind. In the Keys, especially between Marathon and Islamorada, that magenta line is thoroughly carpeted with an almost infinite number of lobster traps.

It’s difficult to get a photo that shows the true extent. The sheer number of floats and their close proximity is a clear hazard to navigation. I don’t understand why a waterman would risk his gear by placing it in a high traffic area where he knows there is a good chance it will get tangled in a passing boats running gear.

I decided today, to look into the rules that govern the placement of lobster traps in Florida. Sure enough, there is a prohibition against putting them in the ICW.

Rule: 68B-24.0045

Rule Title: Importation of Spiny Lobster; Documentation and Other Requirements

Department: FISH AND WILDLIFE CONSERVATION COMMISSION

Division: Marine Fisheries

Chapter: SPINY LOBSTER (CRAWFISH) AND SLIPPER LOBSTER

https://www.flrules.org/gateway/RuleNo.asp?ID=68B-24.0045

CHAPTER 68B-24

68B-24.007 Other Prohibitions.

(3) No spiny lobster traps shall be set, placed, or caused to be set or placed at, on, or below the waters of the state within 100 feet of the intracoastal waterway or within 100 feet of any bridge or sea wall.

That seem pretty clear to me. So does the fact that the FWC is not enforcing this in any way. Maybe someone with more influence than myself can pass the word along. A clear-cut, sensible regulation is being brazenly violated and the FWC seems to be turning a blind eye. I’m not talking about a stray trap here and there. I’m talking about many thousands of traps. Sometimes they are so close your vessel gets boxed in and you can’t escape without running dangerously close to them.

Who wants to start some sort of campaign? I’m with you.

Islamorada for Cruisers

Islamorada is a nice place to stop over for a day or two. The anchorage is pretty straightforward. Simply peal off the ICW and head towards the Lorelie on Upper Matecumbe Key. You’ll see anchored vessels fairly close to shore. We found the holding to be good in 8 feet of water, a few hundred yards offshore. Closer in the depth comes up to 6 feet, and there is thick grass. I suggest not getting any closer in than the closet boat you see already anchored.

There are two ways to access shore. First, you shouldn’t miss the Lorelei. It’s a great example of what a Florida Keys Bar/Restaurant can be. http://loreleicabanabar.com/

Dinghy up to their small beach or tie off to the dock and get lunch and/or a cocktail. Great sunset views can be had with a drink in hand. You can walk a short distance into town from here. You’ll be on US1 amongst the typical T-Shirt shops, art galleries, and souvenir stands.

Another way to get to shore is to look about two hundreds yards south of the Lorelei. There is a road that dead-ends into the water, serving as a ramp for small vessels, kayaks and the like. Tie off to the mangroves and you will one block from a grocery store. A few hundred more feet to the south and you’ll find a well stocked liquor store. Both are a short walk, convenient, and quite expensive.

One half mile to the south is The Worldwide Sportsman complex. It’s a well-equipped Bass Pro Shop featuring multiple restaurants, a marina, and a seafood market. There is a replica of Hemingway’s boat inside. Worth a look.

A few hundred more feet on the oceanside of US1 is the famous Green Turtle Restaurant. You shouldn’t pass this place by, but bring a full wallet.

We did not see a way to get water, but there is a dumpster at the ramp for your trash. There’s a Burger Kind 1/4 mile to the north if you have a fast-food craving. We enjoyed our stay, but after a few days we felt we’d seen all there is to see.

Of note: This anchorage is completely open to north winds. It gets very rolly when winds clock out of any direction with a north in it. It’s clear that some of the locals ride it out, but I wouldn’t advise it. It is not crowded. We counted less than twenty boats and it could hold twice that easily with plenty of swing room.

Enjoy your stay.

Key Largo for Cruisers (Tarpon Basin)

Our most northern stop in the Florida Keys was a good one. Tarpon Basin lies just north of Buttonwood Sound and south of Blackwater Sound. There are numerous spots to choose from as far as dropping the hook, so you can move around to seek shelter from any wind direction. Though a fairly large body of water, it is surrounded by tall mangroves. It’s a completely enclosed circle with the ICW running through it’s center. We chose to anchor north of marker 48A as the winds were howling out of the north. We had plenty of water up close to the mangroves, but it was very thick grass. We had to search around a bit to find some open sand before we could get a good hook-set. The water is very clear so it’s not hard to find the white open spots, especially on a sunny day.

One could also anchor south of 48A, or continue to curl around to the east (under the word tarpon on the chart) and snug up close to shore like the locals do. We found 5 foot depths at low tide amongst the locals.

The cool part of staying here for a bit it the FREE dinghy dock, with FREE clean, fresh water. There is also a dumpster on the property, which is a park. It’s situated behind the Government Center, which houses the Monroe County Sheriff’s Department, among other things. There are covered tables, loaner carts, and at least one loner bike available.

We had heard of some “issues” amongst the locals that occured last summer, but we had zero problems at the dinghy dock. In fact, anyone we met was quite friendly and helpful to us. On shore we found most anything we could want, except a laundromat. 1/2 mile to the south, on the ocean side of US1, is a large plaza with Publics, K-Mart, LIQUOR STORE, Radio Shack, etc. US1 is divided here, with a big grass median, which helps when crossing on foot. There is a good paved walkway to the plaza. On the way you’ll pass Hobo’s Cafe. Don’t pass it up! Great food at very reasonable prices. They also have a great happy hour.

http://www.hoboscafe.net/Hobos_Cafe/Welcome.html

There is also a pizza place very close by. To the north there are at least three other restaurants just a short walking distance away. We didn’t try these. One mile to the north is John Pennekamp State Park. It offers glass bottom boat tours of the reef, snorkeling, SCUBA, kayak rentals, etc. There are two small beaches within the park as well.

http://pennekamppark.com/

Right next door to the Government Center, on the bay side, is Dolphin Cove/Dolphins Plus. I for one do not support holding dolphins in captivity, but this facility will allow you to swim with the dolphins and offers other educational opportunities if that’s your bag.

http://www.dolphinsplus.com/

Fishing and snorkeling opportunities abound with the basin. We enjoyed an afternoon exploring the mangrove tunnels aboard our dinghy.

Overall a very pleasant experience for us. If you’re cruising up or down the Keys, I recommend Tarpon Basin highly. Just don’t forget about the grass.

http://www.amazon.com/Ed-Robinson/e/B00F42LGJ8

My Apologies to Marathon

Don’t you hate it when you find out you were just plain wrong about something?! I have to confess, I was completely wrong about Marathon, and Boot Key Harbor specifically. Here’s the deal:

It was May, 2012. We had just been stuck in Little Shark River for 7 days. We fought ferocious mosquitoes. We ran low on supplies. Our friends called the Coast Guard, who located us with a C-130 flown out of Key West. We rode out storm after storm until on day 7, the storms cleared. It was windy still though, and we had a rough passage to Boot Key Harbor.

We stupidly picked up a mooring ball without calling ahead and having one assigned to us. The dockmaster was quite stern in correcting our error. This started us off on the wrong foot. We spent a few days being very busy, reprovisioning, doing laundry, tending to boat chores. We never slowed down to explore the area, make new friends, or simply enjoy ourselves. We left with a bad impression.

In my first book, Leap of Faith; Quit Your Job and Live on a Boat, I spoke poorly of Marathon. I feel that I must try to make amends. I was uninformed, and made a judgement without full knowledge of what I was talking about.

Skip forward to present day. We have returned to Boot Key Harbor with no pressing need to travel on. We have no schedule this time. We’ve been here just over a week. We called ahead for a mooring ball assignment and the staff was very helpful and friendly. We found some fellow liveaboards that we know from other ports. The City Marina is very well equipped to handle the hundreds of vessels in the harbor. Your every need can be taken care of here or very close by. It’s a bit of a walk to the grocery store, but for 5 bucks a cab will take you anywhere on the island.

There are several restaurants on the water that are accessible by dinghy. There’s a nice beach here as well.

Info on the mooring field can be found here:

http://www.ci.marathon.fl.us/government/departments/marina-and-ports/pricing/

Every morning at 9:00 you can listen to The Cruisers Net on VHF channel 68. Find out what’s happening in the harbor and in the town. Buy/Sell/Trade. Find other boats going to the Bahamas or elsewhere. Get a diver, a ride to the store, help fixing something. It’s a great resource that makes you feel like part of the community.

I won’t go into a ton of detail on all the things there are to do here. There have been plenty of articles and blog posts on that topic. Here are a few:

http://commutercruiser.com/6-favorite-things-to-do-in-boot-key-harbormarathonflorida-keys/

http://commutercruiser.com/marathon-boot-key-harbor-stuff-to-know/

I did want to publicly apologize for bad-mouthing Marathon in Leap of Faith. In my latest book, Trawler Trash, I made this harbor central to the story, and spoke nicely about it, especially The Dockside.

http://www.docksidetropicalcafe.com/

Kim and I are enjoying our stay. The people here are very nice, and we feel welcomed by the community. Can’t ask for more than that from a well-protected harbor.

http://www.amazon.com/Ed-Robinson/e/B00F42LGJ8 (for all my books)

No Sailboats Allowed! (NewFound Harbor)

The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) passed a rule in December 2006 creating a no-anchoring zone for masted vessels in Newfound Harbor (Pine Channel), south of U.S. 1 between Big Pine Key and Little Torch Key. In an effort to enforce this new rule, the FWC will post signs and buoys in the affected area. During inclement weather, masted vessels have come in contact with the power lines, knocking out power in other portions of the Keys. The signs and buoys will inform boaters that anchoring masted vessels is prohibited in Pine Channel.

We were both down with the sickness (Key West Crud) and we wanted out of Key West. What we needed was a quiet, scenic, well-protected harbor in which to rest for a few days. Newfound Harbor looked to fit the bill.

There are several options for anchoring once you pass by Little Palm Island resort on Munson Island.

We chose the far northern spot between Big Pine Key and Little Torch Key. Only three boats were present, and they were very widely spaced. Four sailboats were anchored just south of the southern tip of Big Pine.

At first glance, it appears that there is nothing to do in this harbor. But if you get a little creative and explore in the dinghy, you have some options. Just north of the bridge on Little Torch is Tiki’s Sandbar, with a nice dock for dinghy access. http://www.kikissandbar.com/

A little further ride, but well worth it, is the Looe Key Dive Center and it’s cool tiki bar. http://looekeydivecenter.com/

We also landed on Big Pine Key, near the base of the bridge, and tied off to some mangroves. The Big Pine Restaurant is a short walk. If you’re up to it, Winn Dixie is 1 mile up US 1. Walgreens, and attached liquor store is .75 miles. We spent three days relaxing, with very little boat traffic. We enjoyed watching the antique launches ferrying customers to Little Palm Island Resort.

Overall it was a good experience for us. If you are headed to or from Key West on the Hawk Channel side, consider stopping there for a few days.

Key West for Cruisers

Everyone knows what Key West is all about. You’ve probably been there by car or even cruise ship. The town is truly a destination that everyone should see at least once. Getting there, and staying there on your own boat, is another story all-together.

It’s a good news / bad news situation.

The Good: The shore facilities are set-up quite nicely for liveaboard boaters and cruisers. There is an very busy dinghy dock in Key West Bight right in front of Turtle Kraal’s restaurant. It is administered by the Key West Bight Marina. The fee is $6 per day, or $26.50 for a week. It’s cheaper by the month but we didn’t stay that long. (this was our second visit to KW by boat). For you money you get a low-tech sticker to put on your outboard. This gives you permission to use the dock, but it does not guarantee you a spot! We always managaged to squeeze in somewhere.

As you step foot on land, there is a public restroom. Behind that is trash disposal, recycling bins and even waste oil disposal. Very cool. There is FREE water on the docks. You can dinghy your jugs right up to the faucet, pull the hose down and fill up without leaving the boat. Also very cool.

Key West Bight is part of the local scene. Many excellent restaurants/bars line the harbor here. Take your pick or choose a different one every day. Duval Street is also just a few blocks away. Take Caroline Street and you’ll hit Duvall at the Bull & Whistle right downtown. Also on Caroline are two small markets. Not good for real provisioning, but they are convenient if you need milk or bread or whatnot.

The Bad: There is NO decent anchorage in Key West. All of your options are less than ideal.

You will be wide open to winds from the north, which are predominant in the winter. The bottom holding can be suspect, and there is assorted debris in various locations throughout the area. By debris, I might mean crab pots, which we pulled up with our anchor, or I might mean a sunken vessel. True story. There are quite a few wrecks sunken among the anchored boats that still float. It can get very rough out there when the winds blow.

So where can you anchor? We chose the southwest corner of Fleming Key, just inside marker 31. It’s the closest spot to the dinghy dock, has protection from East or Northeast winds, and the bottom has enough mud you can get an anchor to stick. The cove in the middle of Fleming is off-limits, as designated by buoys that say “No Boats”. There is some shallower water (we were in 20 feet) to the north of the cove, but it was very crowded. I was told that the majority of full-timers live there, and some don’t take kindly to transients elbowing in. I can’t verify the truth of that statement.

There are over one hundred boats anchor on the north side of Christmas Tree Island, formerly known as Wisteria. I don’t know why! It looks like a horrible place to be and it’s a LONG dinghy ride to town. Another few dozen are anchored on the southeast side of Christmas Tree Island, which looks okay-ish.

Finally, you could choose to utilize the mooring field on the east side of Fleming. Guess what? It’s even more open to wind than the anchorages. It’s out there in the middle of nothing, which makes for a long dinghy ride into Garrison Bight. Then it’s a long walk to Duval and the attractions from Garrison. If you have bikes, this might be something to consider. We are cheap cruisers though, so we don’t even like to pay for mooring balls if we can anchor.

So there you have it. Key West has done a nice job of catering to boaters. It’s a huge part of the lifestyle in that town. You can get water, get rid of your trash, recycle, dispose of waste oil and filters, etc. They city planners can’t do anything about the geography of the island, or the wrath of the elements, so be prepared. Getting your anchor well set is imperative. The current is strong and the waves can grow large. The dinghy ride can be treacherous sometimes. Those that live out there full-time have to be hardcore to last.

For us, one week is enough.

One last point to make – There are an assortment of “characters” living on boats and frequenting the dinghy dock. Some are less than reputable. Some are less that sane, or less than sober. Most are friendly, but there exists a certain element that you should be aware of.

Now go uptown and enjoy!