Kathy Lynn Emerson's Blog, page 68

Some of my favorite things on the Blue Hill Peninsula

By Brenda Buchanan

My stop on the MCW summer tour is a place I used to live and where we still vacation – the beautiful Blue Hill Peninsula.

Sunset looking up the bay from Brooklin toward Blue Hill

If you aren’t quite sure where Blue Hill (no, not Mount Blue) is located, you aren’t alone. Mount Desert Island gets most of the Hancock County ink, for understandable reasons. That’s fine with those of us who enjoy spending a day or two in and around busy Acadia National Park, but prefer to spent our down time on the laid-back peninsula that lies to its west.

In addition to Blue Hill, the peninsula is made up of the towns of Brooklin, Brooksville, Sedgwick  Penobscot, Surry, Orland and Castine. Deer Isle and Stonington lie across the high bridge that spans Eggemoggin Reach.

Remember this Dan Fogelberg song? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEL_qqXGjHU  It was written about this place.

The Blue Hill Peninsula is a mellow place, but there’s plenty to do.

Blueberries grown by Ruth and Nick at their organic farm in Penobscot are sold at many local Farmer’s Markets in August

Every day there’s a farmer’s market in one town or another where you can buy not only tomatoes, greens, carrots and peppers, but pies and burritos, homemade vinegars and locally grown tea blends, smoked meat and fresh fish.

There are myriad places to hike, thanks in large part to the Blue Hill Heritage Trust, Island Heritage Trust, Maine Coast Heritage Trust and the Nature Conservancy, which own many spectacular properties and maintain a great trail network across the region.

There are easy hikes and more challenging ones. All pass through beautiful land and provide context for the trust’s work to protect precious natural habitat and resources. Here’s a link to its website: http://bluehillheritagetrust.org/

We love swimming in cold ocean water, and seek out little pocket beaches because we like a little peace and quiet with our sun and sand.

A pristine beach, perfect for a swim on a hot summer day

Here’s a photo of one of our favorites. There’s no parking lot. No snack stand.  But it offers crystal clear water and good bird watching. And no, I’m not going to divulge its exact location.

Many ponds also dot the peninsula, which offer swimming and boating opportunity for those who like their water a little warmer and prefer kayaking or fishing in freshwater.

View from atop Caterpillar Hill in Sedgwick, with the ocean on the left and Walker Pond on the right.

There’s music a-plenty on the Blue Hill Peninsula. We always get tickets for a concert at Kneisel Hall, a chamber music school and festival perched on the side of Blue Hill itself.  Founded in 1902, it provides an opportunity to hear world-class musicians in an intimate setting. Click here for its website: http://kneisel.org/

In late July we took in the final concert of this year’s Blue Hill Bach concert, which was superb.Every July out-of-town and local musicians collaborate on an ambitious program that invariably brings the crowd to its feet.

A great annual event

If classical isn’t your ticket, check out Flash! In The Pans. Every Monday night in the summer, Flash! brings the rhythm and lilt of steel drum music to the area, usually at the Blue Hill Town Park but sometimes in one of the surrounding towns. This award-winning band is made up of community members, young and old. Here’s a video from a few years ago when Flash! was on the road, playing in Southwest Harbor.  https://vimeo.com/14456920

Evenings not spent at musical events frequently are spent at readings. The local libraries, often in conjunction with the fabulous Blue Hill Books and various community organizations regularly invite poets and writers of fiction and non-fiction to read and speak about their work.

The summer annex at the wonderful Friend Memorial Library in Brooklin, a bug free shelter to check email when the library itself is closed.

Some big names read in the summertime—last year we heard Lily King and this year we expect to see Terry Tempest Williams. Needless to say, I was honored to have my name on the sign outside the Blue Hill Library last November when I did a reading from Cover Story.

Attuned to the fact that many rental cottages don’t offer internet access, the local libraries also provide picnic tables, porches and tents so those who can’t leave the office behind can check their email in between their morning kayak and their afternoon hike.

Last fall I was honored to have the opportunity to read at the wonderful Blue Hill Public Library

Many of the other summer tour of Maine posts on this blog have talked about the food and drink options that abound in our marvelous state. There’s plenty to eat and drink in the Blue Hill area as well.

Like Mexican? Head to El El Frijoles at Sargentville end of Caterpillar Hill Road. Never had a lobster burrito? You have no idea what you’re missing and trust me, you will thank me for this tip. Here’s a video where the owners talk about their wonderful, funky operation. https://vimeo.com/62826779

On Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday evenings, the wood-fired oven at Tinder Hearth Bakery in rural Brooksville is loaded up with delectable handmade pizzas. It is essential to call ahead and reserve one, as they fly out the door. Al fresco dining is available in the yard behind the bakery, or pies can be taken home. Tinder Hearth is wildly popular, as the line of cars on the side of the Coastal Road in this photo attests.

Get your amazing pizza here, by reservation only, three nights a week.

The most amazing lunches (lobster po’ boy, salads made with luscious local produce) can be had on the deck at Aragosta, which perches over Stonington Harbor. Fresh-made sandwiches, cookies and other beach picnic fixings are available at Buck’s Harbor Market in Brooksville.

This the place to pick up all you’ll need for a picnic lunch

Other spots we love: The Farmhouse in Blue Hill (order a crab cake BLT or fish tacos and eat outside on the back lawn), Bagaduce Lunch at the Reversing Falls in Brooksville (the fish and chips and lobster rolls are divine), Strong Brewing Company in Sedgwick (the hoppy Localmotive is one of my faves) and Deep Water Brew Pub in Blue Hill (Three Sheets Porter, yum!), Buck’s Restaurant in Buck’s Harbor (house smoked salmon to die for), and when we want to dress up, Arborvine in Blue Hill (everything on the menu, essentially).

Many local non-profit organizations put on lobster bakes or chicken barbecues in the summer to raise funds for their community work.

August in Maine means lobster bakes

This offers an opportunity to buy a terrific dinner and support a good cause at the same time. It also allows you do sit elbow-to-wetnap with locals and other visitors, which can lead to the most interesting conversations.

Then there is the pie. Like the rest of Downeast Maine, the Blue Hill peninsula is blessed with blueberry fields in the summer and that means pie is abundant. Pie truly is the food of the gods. It’s my favorite dessert, too. (And breakfast, to be completely truthful.)

Maine wild blueberry pie

For those who enjoy their pie a la mode, The Ice Cream Lady, based in Brooklin, churns out some winning flavors that are available at many local markets. I have found the ginger, coconut and lemon pair especially well with blueberry pie.

A spectacular sunset on the Blue Hill Peninsula

 

 

Cape Elizabeth for the 99 Percenter . .

Whenever I travel around the state and tell people I live in Cape Elizabeth, the first thing they do is look at my shoes to see if I’m wearing Johnston and Murphy or my shirts to see if they’re from Mercer and Sons. Cape’s reputation as one of the wealthier communities in the state precedes it and I’m not sure people outside of southern Maine expect to see someone from the town dressed out of Reny’s via Marden’s. Of course the ocean side of town—Shore Road—is home to the big rockpiles and estates built by and for such luminaries as the architect John Calvin Stevens. But those of us who live in what’s affectionately known as Baja Cape (or NoSpur—North of Spurwink) know there are plenty of pleasures available to the day tripper and resident hoi polloi.

While not exactly prohibited from the private drives along Shore Road, visitors are more encouraged to visit the free and public park at Portland Head Light, the iconic lighthouse depicted in advertisements for everything from Reny’s advertisements to cell phones.

Fort Williams Park, which contains the lighthouse, also houses a gorgeous cliff walk, with views of the ocean and the cities of Portland and South Portland, as well as some of the best lobster rolls in town. Parking and entrance is free; lobster rolls are not.

Walk off your crustacean-induced coma a short jaunt south on Shore Road at the Cape Elizabeth Land Trust trails in Robinson Woods, with free parking available at the road side. Robinson Woods contains over 145 acres of land with walking trails, fields, ponds, and woods. Because the land was never suitable for farming, much of it is in the same state as it has been for centuries. Massive trees, streams, wildflowers, and ferns grace your path as you feel your cholesterol-fuelled pulse return to normal. The Land Trust has numerous other parcels in Cape Elizabeth also suitable for walking. See this list for details.

Moving farther south on Shore Road, be sure to take a long look at the view from Pond Cove on the left, another Land Trust parcel that hosted some of the earliest settlements in Cape Elizabeth.

Ready for a beach day instead? No problem. Continue up Shore Road to the intersection with Ocean House Road (Route 77) and take a left.

Cape Elizabeth has two state parks with excellent sand beaches. Kettle Cove and Crescent Beach are next to each other, just off Route 77 to the left about a mile or so beyond the “center” of town. Kettle Cove is the smaller of the two parks, with a small well-protected beach and walking trails. Take the left off 77 just before the Kettle Cove Creamery (ice cream later!) and follow the road out to the parking lot. To reach Crescent Beach, which is larger and has shower, changing, and restroom facilities, continue down 77 to the sign. Both beaches are State Parks and have entry fees, though Kettle Cove’s fee is on the honor system—please pay it!

Rainy day. Tour the local farmstands—Jordan’s Farm and Alewive’s Brook Farm (don’t mention my name to Jodie!) for almost anything in season and Maxwell’s Farm. Lunch at C Salt Gourmet Market (year-round) for good sandwiches or Two Lights Lobster Shack (seasonal) for the best fried clams in town.

Of course the best places in Maine are only known to the locals and Cape Elizabeth is no different. We have one of the best Transfer Stations (aka The Dump) around and a Swap Shop, where residents leave and retrieve all kinds of treasures, from furniture to paperbacks.

Many’s the good find come from the Cape Elizabeth Swap Shop

but you need to get there early on Saturdays—the ambience is reminiscent of Filene’s Basement on the pre-Christmas sales. You’ll have to find someone with a resident sticker to take you, though. In Cape Elizabeth, our junk is for us . . .

Weekend Update: July 30-31, 2016

Next week at Maine Crime Writers there will be posts by Brenda Buchanan (Monday), Kaitlyn Dunnett/Kathy Lynn Emerson (Tuesday), Bruce Coffin (Wednesday), Maureen Milliken (Thursday), and Barb Ross (Friday). And in our special “A Day In . . . “ series, Dick Cass will post a blog tomorrow.

In the news department, here’s what’s happening with some of us who blog regularly at Maine Crime Writers:

Beyond the Sea Book Festival in Lincolnville Beach at Beyond the Sea (2526 Atlantic Highway, Lincolnville) is all all-day event today, July 30. There will be lots of Maine authors signing books there, including our own Dorothy Cannell, Kaitlyn Dunnett/Kathy Lynn Emerson, Kate Flora, Barb Ross, and Lea Wait, plus frequent contributor Katherine Hall Page. Dorothy and Katherine will be there starting at 10:30 and the rest will be joining them at 11:15. For more information and listings of all the Maine writers who will be there, go to Beyond the Sea Maine or call 207-789-5555.

 

An invitation to readers of this blog: Do you have news relating to Maine, Crime, or Writing? We’d love to hear from you. Just comment below to share.

And a reminder: If your library, school, or organization is looking for a speaker, we are often available to talk about the writing process, research, where we get our ideas, and other mysteries of the business. Contact Kate Flora: mailto: kateflora@gmail.com

A Day in Westbrook

Welcome to my hometown of Westbrook, Maine. I grew up here, live here with my wife, Erica, our three children, Morgan, Shannon and Maura, and the world’s  most pathetic dog and my own personal stalker, Chocolate Chip.

Erica and Chip. Chip is the hairy one waiting to lunge at me.

I have served on the Westbrook City Council for 15 years, the last 10 as Council President. Some of you may have believed you’ve been living in the Greater Portland region. It’s my duty to inform you that you’re actually living in Greater Westbrook!

Westbrook City Council welcomes Russian delegation from Archangel.

Westbrook is a paper mill town that has survived the downturn in paper production and thrived, serving as headquarters for Idexx, an international leader in animal diagnostics with more than 6,000 employees and serving customers in 175 countries, and is also renowned for its arts and music, including the Westbrook High School Jazz Band, which won the Berklee College Jazz Festival this year. And it has had four recent Maine teachers of the year and the 2016 Curriculum Leader of the Year!

Nothing pleases me more than to spend an entire day eating great food, sharing a craft brew with some friends, coming together with my neighbors to support a local cause, checking out a new show at an art gallery or seeing a movie…all without ever leaving Westbrook.

Let me give you just a sample.

For breakfast, start with the best creme horns or cinnamon rolls in the world at The Baker’s Bench or grab something heartier at Mr. Bagel’s.

Then it’s time to work that off and do something for the community. For example, on July 16, nearly 500 people walked and ran the third annual Westbrook Strong 5K to raise funds for a scholarship in memory of Matt Rairdon.

5K raising funds for Matt Rairdon scholarship

Including this goober.

Made it to the end!

Then you need lunch! If you didn’t stop by Mr. Bagel’s for breakfast, hit it now and grab a Hail Caesar Wrap or Killa Dilla. Or grab a sandwich at Rosen’s Deli, which used to be the Fully Belly Deli before it came to its senses and moved to Westbrook. Or a slice at Portland Pie. Sure they may have locations elsewhere, but why would you go any other place?

Now it’s time to get a little culture. Check out any number of Westbrook artists. Perhaps the Bakery Photo Collective is having a show. Or stop and see the art at Continuum for Creativity. If you’re lucky, you also might hear a local author reading from their work at Continuum. The Lowry’s Lodge Poetry Series spotlights local poets, including many published by Westbrook’s own Moon Pie Press. Books in the Brook is another monthly series featuring local poets and authors and was organized by two Maine Crime Writers bloggers, Brenda Buchanan and yours truly.

Or some music! Home to the late Rudy Vallee and Don Doane, the best musician Maine has ever seen, Westbrook is famous for its music. Check out Tony Boffa, or Motor Booty Affair or country music Hall of Famer Al Hawkes or The Bob Charest Band, or many others. Or watch the gold-medal winning high school marching band, the award-winning wind ensemble or chorus, or the jazz band that beat bands from all over the country to win the Berklee Jazz Festival.

Time for supper! If you didn’t manage to hit three places for lunch, move to the next on your list. Or try some Thai at Siam Square. Or head to Lenny’s for some great pub food, beer and music. You are likely to spot (and maybe hear) country music Hall of Famer Al Hawkes!

After all that, you’ll need chocolate, so stop by Haven’s Candies or Black Dinah Chocolatiers, winner of the 2016 Good Food Award.

And nothing washes chocolate down like ice cream! And not just any ice cream. The creations at Catbird Creamery are unmatched anywhere. From Salted Chocolate and Brown Sugar Vanilla to Tamari Caramel, Rhubarb Pie or Carrot Cake or, if you’re brave, Furious George. Amazing.

You may be a little tired (and full) at this point, so stop and watch a movie at Cinemagic while you recharge then head to Westbrook’s newest craft brewery, Mast Landing. If you can’t decide which brew to sample, order a flight and try them all!

These are only some of the things you can do in Westbrook on any given day.

Time for me to go. I’ve got a very busy day ahead here in Westbrook!

The Pursuit of Happiness

Kate Flora: This summer I’m facing down another birthday and struggling with a massive nonfiction writing project. To counterbalance my seemingly infinite “to do” list and the sense that I never get my homework done, I’m also exploring the question of what makes me happy. When I described the project to a friend, she suggested that I should explore what makes me Unhappy, too, so I’m also doing that.

What have I discovered so far?

Swimming. I think somewhere back in our family tree there must have been a mermaid. On my mother’s side, I believe, because until she was well into her eighties, she went swimming in the pond every day from early June until late September or early October. I don’t have a pond—I have Mackerel Cove—and the ocean has been fiercely cold until recently. But whenever I can, I plunge into that refreshing (some would say frigid) clear ocean water and paddle about. I look at the sky and the green trees and the sun glinting off Bailey Island’s amazing tilted rocks and feel so alive and lucky.

Gardening. My gardens may always be on the verge of getting away from me, but I love the wild, jungle quality they take on by mid-summer. Right now, the daylilies are a riot of color. In the shade, the hosta are blooming a dozen shades of purple, the purple and white balloon flower that looks like it was painted with watercolors is strutting its stuff, and the reluctant hydrangeas have finally deigned to bloom a stunning china blue, while the mopheads are bowing down like royalty is passing by. The roses are being coy and acting like one bloom at a time is all I deserve, while the daisies are doing their clean, cheerful thing, and the mallows descended from the ones on the farm where I grew up are like a series of pink, ruffled petticoats climbing up slim green stems.

Farmer’s Markets. I love to stroll along the common in Brunswick on Friday morning, filling a bag with fresh greens, pickling cukes, tomatoes, and whatever else catches my eye. This week, I expect it will be a feast of summer squash and zucchini and eggplants to roast with red onions and little balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and soy sauce. Maybe there will be some red, yellow, and orange peppers to mix in. I always end up buying a new flowering plant, as well. Once, recently, I found cheese and beer rolls so good my husband hopes I’ll find those again sometime soon. There’s always delicious goat cheese. There’s the guy playing the banjo and children admiring bunnies and kittens. And the true confession here? Once I’ve snagged all the healthy food I can carry, I queue up at Danny’s for a couple of their great cheeseburgers. If you haven’t tried a Danny’s burger, you are missing out.

Treasure hunting. Another true confession—I am a second-hand store junkie. I don’t go often. My house is full, and I really don’t need anything. But little pleases me more, when I have a bit of time on my hands, like scoring a pair of arche shoes or the perfect L.L. Bean tee-shirt or a butter soft blue leather jacket at Goodwill. Or maybe the perfect little cast iron frying pan? A wonderful photograph for the wall? Or the pillowcase that matches my Laura Ashley sheets?

Friends.

Harpswell sunsets.

 

 

 

 

 

Taking silly pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh dear. I’m having so much fun thinking about what makes me happy that I believe I’ll save what makes me unhappy for another day. Or maybe I’ll skip it entirely.

So, dear readers, what makes you happy during a summer in Maine? Berry picking? Paddleboarding? Cooking for friends? Hiking? I’d love to know.

A ‘Day’ in Baxter State Park

What a summer! On top of everything else, I stopped to pull some orphans and nuns out of a burning station wagon right as it was about to go over a waterfall and strained my arm. Okay, I didn’t. I slipped on a wet bathroom floor. But the result is the same. Prolonged typing…ouch. I know, wimpy writer injury.

Soooo… I was supposed to contribute A Day in Baxter State Park to the Maine Crime Writers July “A Day in…” series. But I can’t type. Fortunately, I’ve written about how great Baxter is before. A slightly longer version of this appeared in my Kennebec Tales column in the Morning Sentinel and Kennebec Journal on Jan. 15, 2015, and on the website centralmaine.com. I know! Lazy rerun. But the orphans and nuns…

South Branch Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

I will add this: Forget a day in Baxter State Park. Sure you can get a day pass, but you’re a chump if you only go for a day. And don’t feel you have to hike Katahdin. Many who go there never do and haven’t missed a thing.

Shore of South Branch Pond

Read on:

It’s still dark in Millinocket and the temperature is minus 14. Mount Katahdin looms to the north, but it won’t be visible for another couple of hours.

At 5 a.m. Wednesday the town is quiet. But there’s a stirring behind Baxter State Park headquarters on Balsam Drive. A dozen people mill around in the dark, too cold for much conversation. The hardy ones stayed overnight in tents. Others stayed at nearby motels or, like me, left home in the wee hours of the morning to get a good spot in line.

Daicey Pond, looking at Katahdin

It’s a yearly ritual that confounds most who hear about it, but those who go to Baxter State Park headquarters the one day a year when the entire park is thrown open for camping reservations know it’s worth it.

You may be thinking, wow, 14 below, that’s cold. Yeah. It is.

But in a few — OK, maybe more than a few — months it’ll be warm; the cold, dark, sleepless morning will be far away; and those who braved it will be standing at the top of Mount Katahdin, drifting in a canoe on Daicey Pond, gazing at the view from the summit of North Traveler or just sitting in a lawn chair at the edge of the woods, enjoying the peace.

My brother Bill and nephew Tim on the North Traveler Trail in the north part of the park. You don’t have to hike Katahdin to experience Baxter.

Percival Baxter, who created the park and donated its first land, said, “Man is born to die, his works are short-lived. Buildings crumble, monuments decay, wealth vanishes. But Katahdin in all its glory, forever shall remain the mountain of the people of Maine.”

Baxter made sure when the park was created it would remain “forever wild.”

That stipulation — not just for Katahdin, but the entire park — means nature unspoiled. The best Maine has to offer.

My sister Nicki and her kids Adele, Elise and Tim pull up to shore on Daicey Pond. Baxter is a great family getaway.

Unspoiled, though, comes with a price.

Park restrictions are unforgiving, including how many people can camp there at a time.

The Baxter State Park Authority rolling reservation system allows campers to make reservations for the park’s 10 campgrounds online, by phone, in person at the park or by mail four months before their trip. Not a day earlier.

But on this one glorious day in January, reservations can be made for any site for any day. [July 2016 Maureen here: Don’t despair, if you want to take a trip to the park this year, there are openings available, if you’re flexible, all season, particularly at South Branch Pond, the northernmost campsite at the park.]

My sister Liz looks out over South Branch Pond from North Traveler Mountain in the northern park of Baxter State Park.

What’s the catch?

Only 20 percent of each campground for each day the park is open can be reserved on open reservation day. That may sound like a lot, but it isn’t.

Baxter State Park has no wifi, phone service or electricity. Everyone slows down and enjoys.

Those arriving for open reservation day sign in, noting the time they arrived. Wednesday’s signup started Monday with those who camped out. By 5:30 a.m. Wednesday, 25 people had signed up. I was number 23.

The atmosphere is friendly, congenial. But the line is sacrosanct. No cuts, no saves. And you stay in it, no matter how cold it is, until the door opens at 7 a.m.

Liz kayaks on Daicey Pond with Katahdin in the background.

Wednesday, because it was so cold, the rangers opened the doors a half-hour early, at 6:30. Those walking through the door are handed a number — their rank for when reservations start at 8.

There’s plenty of hiking to be had.

Open reservation day isn’t a day for fanciness and glamour. Hat hair, worn fleece and flannel-lined pants are the look of choice.

Dad sets up a tent at the South Branch Pond campground in 1976. We’ve revived the family tradition of vacationing there every summer the past several years.

The campgrounds closest to Katahdin fill up first. August is the most popular month.

After making their reservations, those who had waited for those hours in the cold come out of the inner office, receipt in hand.

“Did you get it?” those waiting ask.

The earlier the arrival, the more likely the answer is yes. The ones still waiting seem genuinely happy for the success of those before them.

Me, eating blueberries fresh off the bush in 1976 at Baxter State Park.

The old-school, no frills, feel-good ritual is pure Baxter.

The park is a throwback: no wi-fi, spotty and mostly non-existent cell service. No electricity, except what generators provide at the rangers’ offices. No running water, potable water, flush toilets or showers. No garbage cans. Carry it in, carry it out.

No RVs, Jet Skis, motorboats, motor scooters or ATVs.

Entry gate at Baxter State Park.

It takes forever to get there, no matter where you live. Once you’re inside — and don’t try to bring the dog or an extra person — it’s another long drive at 10 mph on rocky dirt roads to the campground.

A neighbor told my parents before our family went for the first time in the early 1970s, “It’s a pain to get there, but once you’re there? Shangri-la!”

Sister Liz at Baxter in 1976. She’s older, but the park hasn’t changed a bit.

Shangri-la wasn’t a real place. It was a made-up paradise where everything was beautiful and harmonious. Baxter is better than Shangri-la, because it’s real. Pure, clear water; sunlight filtering through endless, endless trees; not one mountain, but dozens. Want numbers instead of feelings? More than 40 ridges and peaks, including Katahdin, of course, and 215 miles of hiking trails.

The biggest traffic issue we ever encountered at Baxter was the time a moose stood in front of our car for half an hour, ignoring our honking, yelling and arm-waving.

Brother Bill at Baxter State Park in 1976.

The whole process from getting the right campsite to getting to that campsite is hard. It should be hard, because if something so fantastic was easy it would be a sin.

What’s easy is being there.

No matter what’s going on in the world that day, most of the conversation on reservation day while campers wait for their number to be called revolves around Baxter: favorite campgrounds, the pros and cons of what month to go, moose encounters, which hikes are the best.

At Baxter State Park expect to do really boring things like hanging out around the campfire as the setting sun reflects off Mount Katahdin.

Nearly five hours after I arrived Wednesday my number was called.

“Well?” those waiting outside the outer office asked as I came out.

I waved the receipt. “I got it!”

It’s now 1 degree outside, but it just doesn’t feel that cold anymore.

Mount Katahdin sunrise from our cabin on Daicey Pond. Just saying.

Maureen Milliken is the author of the Bernie O’Dea mystery series. The second in the series, No News is Bad News, came out in June. Follow her on Twitter @mmilliken47, on Facebook at Maureen Milliken mysteries, and sign up for email updates at maureenmilliken.com.

EVENT: Maureen will be speaking about Maine, mysteries, writing, her new book No News is Bad News and anything else that strikes her fancy at 6 p.m., Wednesday, Aug. 10, at the Maine Lakes Resource Center in Belgrade Lakes, Maine. Sign up for free tickets at www.centralmaine.com/authortalks/

A Day in Boothbay Harbor

by Barb, who was writing this on the front porch but came in because she was getting cold (he, he, he)

We hope you’ve enjoyed this summer’s “A Day in…” posts from Maine Crime Writers. Today’s post comes to you from my Maine town of Boothbay Harbor (with a quick trip up the peninsula to Boothbay–more on this later).

Breakfast: When you ask, “What’s the best place for breakfast?” the answers always depend on the criteria. For example, our friend Stan is all about where to get the best hash. He’ll wax on about potato to onion ratios, or say something dismissive like, “It’s a beef-pork combo.” Other people are all about the omelets. (Though for my money, that’s not even a contest. The French-inflected Vietnamese cooking means the omelets at Baker’s Way are the best in town. Have a croissant while you’re there.) Other people are into the lobster benedict or the fish and eggs (my husband’s favorite.)

A portion of the view from the harbor side tavern.

Personally, I believe all Maine breakfasts should be judged by the blueberry pancakes, which is why my current favorite breakfast place in town in the Harborside Tavern. Order 1, 2 or 3 of their fluffy blueberry pancakes and real maple syrup. (If you’re staying locally, order two and take half your order home.) Both the bacon and the sausage (link or pattie) are excellent.

A harbor cruise: From breakfast, let’s walk down the pier and take a harbor cruise. There are several available. We’re going to take a cruise because the best way to see Boothbay Harbor is from the water. You’ll have your choice of whale watches, puffin watches, sunset sailboat cruises or a general tour around the harbor. Whichever you take, you are almost sure to see seals, eagles, osprey, working lobster boats, two to four lighthouses, islands with 100 or 1 or 0 houses, and maybe a minke whale or two, even if you don’t go for the whale watch.

A walk through town: Back from the cruise, let’s take a walk through town and maybe do a little retail therapy. Don’t forget to stop at Sherman’s where you’ll spot books from most of the Maine Crime Writers for sale.

Lunch: For lunch we’re going to cross the famous footbridge to the Lobster Dock. This is one of my favorite places to eat in town, with a large menu of local favorites (including crab cakes that famously lost in a fixed fight with Bobby Flay). You sit outside. The food is delicious, the scenery glorious.

 

 

Alternative: If you are all about lobster rolls, and only lobster rolls, stay on the town side of the footbridge and order up at Shannon’s Unshelled. Every houseguest we have ever sent there has returned home raving.

Botanical Gardens: After lunch, we’re going to buzz up the peninsula to Boothbay to visit one of Maine’s newest tourist destinations, The Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Built on 270 acres of total shoreland, the gardens offer a spectacular children’s garden, miles of trails, and many beautiful sights, including a garden of the 5 senses designed to enhance the enjoyment of people with physical and sensory challenges. The gardens are open from April 15 to the end of October, and then re-open for a spectacular holiday illuminations display. What to see and do depends on what’s in bloom, but the gardens are always a terrific tourist hit. If you’re feeling energetic, you can even rent kayaks there. Our kids did that over 4th of July weekend and saw hundreds of seals.

Time to sit on the porch: Go back to wherever you’re staying and grab your beverage of choice and a book. If you’re on a day trip, one of our local watering holes will welcome you.

Dinner: There are so many great choices, but our favorite is Ports of Italy. The food is traditional Italian with lots of fresh local seafood, homemade pasta, and local vegetables. I’ve been there twice this year and failed to take photos either time, which is too bad because the presentation is as beautiful as the service is impeccable. So this photo will have to do.

Like all the “Day in” posts, this one barely scratches the surface of all the things there are to do in Boothbay Harbor. We hope you’ll come stay as long as you can.

All photos in this post, except the two views from the Lobster Dock and the one of relaxing on our porch, are by Bill Carito. If you like them and want to see more, you can friend him on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/bcarito and follow him on Instagram at billcarito and bill.carito.colorphotos.

 

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A Day in Old Orchard Beach

Jessie: Looking longingly at the beach-goers trundling past my porch

As a part of our series on places in Maine I was thrilled to put up my hand for Old Orchard Beach. I started spending summers here six years ago and have loved every minute of them. Here are a few of my favorite ways to  enjoy this iconic beach town:

The Beach:

With seven miles of sugar fine sand, Old Orchard has a spot for everyone. But I suggest heading out early in the morning during high season to spread out your beach blanket right above the high water mark. The views are best with no one else in front of you and you won’t end up scrambling to drag your belongings back from the rising tide.

Toss a small box kite in a bag and some bocce balls into your beach cart. Low tide provides a lot of room to get up and play. Nothing beats a game with friends as the sun drops low and the temperatures start to cool.

Bring some shade. This beach is known for its retro vibe. Why not protect your skin and stay cool too by carrying a parasol? If you’d rather use a beach umbrella I’d advise bringing along a way to weigh it down. Several times each season someone’s unanchored umbrella pinwheels down the beach laying waste to unsuspecting sunbathers.

 

 

The Pier and Amusement Park:

The Pier has changed many times over the years but has remained a must-do for visitors. There are eateries selling everything from lobster rolls to deep-fried oreos. Souvenir shops sell marshmallow guns, shark tooth necklaces and OOB t-shirts. There’s even a place that will write your name on a grain of rice should you need such a thing. A dance club stands at the end now just as a ballroom did when the Pier first opened in 1898.

Palace Playland is the last remaining ocean-front amusement park in New England. It has a decidedly retro feel and is close enough to the beach that it’s easy to spend the day moving from the beach to the park effortlessly as the spirit moves you. They have rides for little kids and for the older ones too. Games of skill and chance as well as an arcade round out the offerings. It’s the sort of place that fills you with nostalgia just by walking through it. Every Thursday night at 9:45 they put on a fireworks display.

Old Orchard Street:

Old Orchard Street leads from the crest of the hill along Saco Avenue straight down to the Pier and the beach. Every summer crowds amble along people watching and enjoying the breeze. There’s a fountain in the center of the square at the end of the street with a built in bench encircling it, providing a great view from any spot.

There are stores carrying sweatshirts and bathing suits and boogie boards. Others, like Beachology and Happy Nest sell beach house decor. There’s a place to get a henna tatoo and another where you can purchase baseball cards. You can even stop in at the local fortune teller. My favorite spot is the used book store. Not only do they have a wide variety of reading material, they have the best prices on bottled drinks in town.

To Eat:

Dickinson’s is the place to stop for handmade fudge. They give out samples, making it almost impossible not to buy some to take home. Lisa’s Pizza always has a line down the sidewalk with people eager to purchase a slice or to order poutine, a dish made of French fries, cheese curds and gravy. And speaking of fries, if there is one thing to eat in Old Orchard it’s a serving of Pier Fries.  They’ve been selling ntheir crinkle cut wonders for over eighty years so you know they’ve got a bit of potato magic in every box.

I hope you will make the trip to Old Orchard one day this summer and that you will enjoy it as much as I do!

Readers, have you ever been to Old Orchard? Do you have a favorite memory there?

The Journey Continues

Vaughn

In my post on July 14, we embarked on a canoe/kayak trip from Sinclair on Long Lake to Limestone Point on Square Lake. After an amazing night in which we were able to observe the galaxy in all of its splendor and we sat around a campfire drinking coffee the way it was intended to be drank, we awoke at 4:30 a.m., stiff from sleeping on the dew-covered ground to await the warmth of the sun as it rises over the placid surface of the lake. Rather than hassle with another campfire, we fire up the Coleman Camp Stove and cook a breakfast of eggs, potatoes, and freshly caught trout (did I mention that we caught them that morning?) as well as more coffee.

Square Lake to Eagle Lake Thoroughfare

Breakfast over, we clean up the campsite and load up our gear for the paddle along the northwest shore of Square Lake to the Eagle Lake thoroughfare.  Eagle Lake is the connection to the Fish River overflows into the Fish River in the southeast corner of Wallagrass 13 miles (21 km) upstream of the confluence with the Saint John River. From the outlet, the lake extends southward through the eastern part of the town of Eagle Lake and forms a “L” extending eastward through township 16, range 6, into township 16, range 5. Fish River enters Eagle Lake at the bend in the “L”. The chain of lakes tributary to the Fish River enters Eagle Lake via the Eagle Lake Thoroughfare from Square Lake in township 16, range 5. Smaller tributaries to Eagle Lake include Clark Brook, Gilmore Brook, Brown Brook, Devoe Brook, and Pond Brook from the town of Eagle Lake, and Alec Brook, Miller Brook, and Last Brook from township 16. The Montreal, Maine & Atlantic Railroad follows the west shore of Eagle Lake through the town of Eagle Lake and then follows the Fish River into Fort Kent. Eagle Lake provides good habitat for rainbow smelt, brook trout, lake trout, and land-locked salmon. The entire eastern arm of Eagle Lake is within the 23,000-acre (9,300 ha) reserve of public land available for ATV riding, birding, camping, cross-country skiing, fishing, hiking, hunting, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and swimming.

Eagle Lake Sporting Lodge

One other point of interest is the area’s only true sporting lodge. Arriving at the entrance to Eagle Lake we turn left and follow the shore until we reach the Eagle Lakes Sporting Camps. Although the dining area is open to guests year-round, it is open to the general public July through October by Reservation on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for Lunch & Dinner. The Lodge is accessible only by water (boat or plane) or woods road (four wheel drive vehicle is best) and by snowmobile (or ski equipped plane) across the frozen winter in ice fishing season.

Cabin at Eagle Lake Sports Camp in summer

Winter (‘Nuff said!)

Leaving the sporting camps  up the lake we will pass the Maine Warden Service float plane base from which the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife survey the vast woodland from the air searching for lost hikers, hunters, and coordinating with wardens on the ground.

Lastly we come to the quaint village of Eagle Lake, sitting along route 11 and providing the primary public boat launch. The village is the last stop before entering the Fish River and making our way to Fort Kent where the river meets up with the Saint John River. If you should decide to undertake this trip (it is not for those of us who are not in shape) plan on spending four or five days in a canoe or kayak. Personally, I’ll use my fourteen foot boat and forty horsepower motor.

For those of you who are not into the camping and outdoor scene, in a future blog I’ll take you on a tour of the Saint John Valley and its Acadian culture and history.

 

Weekend Update: July 23-24, 2016

Next week at Maine Crime Writers there will be posts by Jessie Crockett (Monday), Barb Ross (Tuesday), Maureen Milliken (Wednesday), Kate Flora (Thursday), and Brendan Rielly (Friday). And in our special “A Day In . . . “ series, Vaughn Hardacker will post a blog tomorrow.

In the news department, here’s what’s happening with some of us who blog regularly at Maine Crime Writers:

from Kaitlyn Dunnett: The tenth Liss MacCrimmon mystery, Kilt at the Highland Games, will be in stores in hardcover and online as an ebook on Tuesday, July 26. When I wrote this one, I wasn’t sure the series would be continuing (it is, never fear) so a lot of the more interesting characters from earlier books in the series came back for return appearances. And one character who has been there from the beginning spends most of this one as a missing person.

Beyond the Sea Book Festival in Lincolnville Beach at Beyond the Sea (2526 Atlantic Highway, Lincolnville) is all all-day event next Saturday, July 30. There will be lots of Maine authors signing books there, including our own Dorothy Cannell, Kaitlyn Dunnett/Kathy Lynn Emerson, Kate Flora, Barb Ross, and Lea Wait, plus frequent contributor Katherine Hall Page. Dorothy and Katherine will be there starting at 10:30 and the rest will be joining them at 11:15. For more information and listings of all the Maine writers who will be there, go to Beyond the Sea Maine or call 207-789-5555.

 

 

An invitation to readers of this blog: Do you have news relating to Maine, Crime, or Writing? We’d love to hear from you. Just comment below to share.

And a reminder: If your library, school, or organization is looking for a speaker, we are often available to talk about the writing process, research, where we get our ideas, and other mysteries of the business. Contact Kate Flora: mailto: kateflora@gmail.com