Michael Powell's Blog, page 80
July 8, 2014
The Shinyokohama Ramen Museum
It was 1958, and we were hungry. Luckily, we were near Narutabashi Station, where there are at least a dozen ramen shops to choose from. We sat down to big bowls of steaming noodles, and talked about the news of the day… Khrushchev seems a reasonable new leader for the Soviets, doesn’t he? Then my cellphone rang and I remembered: this isn’t 1958. And there is no train station called Narutabashi. The year was 2014 and we were inside The Ramen Museum.
The Shinyokohama Ramen Museum’s claim to the...
July 7, 2014
The Ooedo Onsen Monogatari Spa
The most popular spa in Tokyo is found on Odaiba Island. The Ooedo Onsen Monogatari isn’t cheap, but it offers more than just hot baths. While inside, you can dine at a variety of restaurants, sleep in a capsule hotel, watch TV, or just enjoy the festive atmosphere in a hall designed to evoke Old Edo.
After removing our shoes and paying at the front desk, we were asked to pick out a yukata: a traditional robe which we’d be wearing throughout our stay in the spa. But for the first hour, our yuk...
The Beckoning Cats of Gotoku-ji Temple
The Maneki Neko, or “Beckoning Cat”, is one of Japan’s most iconic images. Thought to bring luck and prosperity to its owner, these cats are frequently found outside businesses and within homes. And in the neighborhood of Setagaya, we found the Gotoku-ji temple, where the Maneki Neko plays a starring role.
Japan’s most famous cat has a few origin stories, one of which is set in Setagaya. Long ago, a lord who had been travelling to Edo was starting to feel weary. As he passed the Gotoku-ji temp...
The Rainbow Bridge
Spanning Tokyo Bay to connect Odaiba Island with the mainland, the Rainbow Bridge serves trains, cars and pedestrians along its 800 meter length. We had frequently crossed the bridge with the Yurikamome Monorail, but decided to walk across on one our final days in Tokyo.
“A Stroll Across the Rainbow Bridge” sounds delightful, but the reality isn’t terribly charming. There’s a broad pedestrian walkway, but you’re never far away from the roaring traffic, consisting mostly of semi-trucks that sha...
Chilling with the Cool Kids of Shimokita
The good-looking older cousin of Harajuku, Shimokitazawa is leaning against the wall, smoking and watching bemusedly as the crowds swarm around the cute kid dressed in cosplay. He shakes his head, crushes his cigarette butt under the heel of a leather boot, and heads into the record shop. Harajuku might be more popular, but the cool kids prefer Shimokita.
Part of the reason Shimokitazawa flies under the radar (if anything in Tokyo can be said to “fly under the radar”), is that it’s a little fu...
July 6, 2014
The Sanja Matsuri in Asakusa
The best known of Tokyo’s Shinto festivals is surely the Sanja Matsuri, based in and around the Senso-ji Temple. For three days in late May, the streets of Asakusa transform into a crowded and wildly drunken party zone. We braved the throngs on Sunday, which is the main day of the festival.
The Sanja Matsuri is among the most joyfully wanton religious parties we’ve ever seen. People don’t come to solemnly observe scripture, but to go nuts in celebration of their culture. The action centers aro...
July 5, 2014
The Seedy Pleasures of East Shinjuku
We had seen a lot of Tokyo’s different faces… cute, modern, weird, beautiful, historic, confusing. But until our visit to East Shinjuku, we hadn’t experienced the famously seedy side of Tokyo. The Golden Gai, Kabukicho and Piss Alley are three cool areas which forever changed our impression of Tokyo. (A change for the better? I’ll leave that unanswered.)
It’s surprising that Tokyo’s seediest area is so near the administrative offices and corporate skyscrapers of West Shinjuku. But, even as I’m...
The Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
Widely considered one of the most lovely spots in Tokyo, the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden has long been a favorite spot for weary Tokyoites looking to escape the city’s concrete jungle. However, if it’s crowds you’re hoping to escape, you might want to look elsewhere.
Like many of the city’s traditional gardens, the Shinjuku Gyoen charges a small entrance fee. But considering the size of the place and the great expense which must go into its maintenance, this is hardly unreasonable. At 144 a...
The Yomiuri Giants & Tokyo Dome City
The Yomiuri Giants are the the Yankees of Japan. Love them or hate them, ambivalence is not allowed. They’re by far the richest and most successful team in Japanese baseball, with 22 titles under their belts. In comparison, the Saitama Seibu Lions are in second place with 13. We took a trip to the Tokyo Dome to see the team in action.
Before the game started, we had a couple hours to kill. Luckily, Tokyo Dome City is a great place to kill time. An entire entertainment complex has sprung up aro...
The Jimbocho Book District & Crime Museum
If you like books, you’re going to love the neighborhood of Jimbocho. Hundreds of shops line the streets of this district, dedicated to everything from used books to manga to art, architecture, fashion, travel and adult materials. The majority are Japanese, but there are plenty of foreign titles, especially in English and German. Even if you’re not in the mood to buy, just browsing can make for an entertaining afternoon. But there’s almost no way that you’re going to walk out of Jimbocho empt...
