Michael Powell's Blog, page 39

April 18, 2017

The An Thoi Islands

Just off the southern tip of Phu Quoc are a series of idyllic islands, accessible only by boat. The islands of the An Thoi Archipelago are blessed with pristine beaches, lush forests, rocky cliffs, and incredible snorkeling. We embarked on an all-day boat trip, which took us to four of them.

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We hadn’t booked a trip in advance, but didn’t think this would be a problem. In fact, after parking at the ferry station in An Thoi, and even before having dismounted from our motorbikes, we were being...

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Published on April 18, 2017 23:15

April 17, 2017

Phu Quoc’s Starfish Beach

On the northern coast of Phu Quoc, we discovered a gorgeous beach, totally devoid of other people. After laying down our towels, we stepped cautiously into the water. It was shallow and perfectly warm, but we had to enter extremely slowly, to avoid stepping on the hundreds of starfish strewn about the floor.

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Starfish Beach is definitely not its official name, but I doubt this beach even has one. It feels absolutely forgotten about, and this sense of isolation is perhaps deliberate. If the lo...

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Published on April 17, 2017 02:50

April 15, 2017

Hòn Một Island

Connected to Phu Quoc by a perilous bridge, tiny Hòn Một Island is home to a park with a nature trail running around its perimeter. There’s not a lot to do on the island, but the views back to Phu Quoc are exceptional.

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The most exciting thing about Hòn Một is reaching it. You have to cross the water by balancing on a moderately long “bridge” of two skinny logs tied together. There’s a hand rail (also homemade), but making it across the bridge requires a bit of dexterity.

Once you’re on the...

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Published on April 15, 2017 23:58

April 14, 2017

A Fish Sauce Factory on Phu Quoc

As ketchup is to Americans, salsa to Mexicans, and Vegemite to Australians, so is fish sauce to the Vietnamese. This condiment is never missing from the table, and there are few dishes which which they won’t drench the stuff. One of the most important regions for the production of fish sauce is Phu Quoc, where we visited a factory to see how it’s made (hint: it involves fish).

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We lucked out, arriving at the Khải Hoàn Fish Sauce factory just after one of their boats had returned. Its deck was...

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Published on April 14, 2017 23:27

Welcome to Fabulous Phu Quoc!

Phu Quoc, Vietnam’s largest island, lays 50 kilometers off the country’s southern tip, actually closer to mainland Cambodia. Although it’s seen an explosion in tourism in recent years, Phu Quoc remains a relatively unknown tropical destination in the Gulf of Thailand. We spent four days there.

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Sparing ourselves a lengthy journey by bus and ferry, we decided to fly directly from Saigon to Phu Quoc. The tickets with Jetstar were cheap, and a mere hour after boarding, we were already stepping o...

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Published on April 14, 2017 00:15

April 12, 2017

Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical Gardens

Our apartment is found right across the Thị Nghè Canal from Saigon’s zoo, allowing us to watch giraffes and elephants from the balcony. So despite the fact that the zoo doesn’t have a sterling reputation, it was just a matter of time before we would be paying a visit to our new friends.

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Prior expectations can really influence an experience. We showed up at the gates of Saigon’s zoo, fully aware that it was supposed to be poor. Aaaaaaand… it was. From any objective perspective, this is not a...

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Published on April 12, 2017 03:11

April 10, 2017

Ben Thanh Market and the Backpackers District

Located in the center of downtown, the Ben Thanh Market was built in 1912, though its origins date to the 17th century. Just to the west lays the “Backpackers District”, offering up all manner of drinks and delights. Ben Thanh and the Backpacker’s District are two of Saigon’s most famous sights. We hated them both.

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As long as Saigon has existed, there’s been some sort of market around Ben Thanh. The French built a proper hall in 1859, and then remade it larger and grander in 1912. Today, you...

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Published on April 10, 2017 00:51

April 7, 2017

Sadec’s Flower Village

Sadec is famous throughout Vietnam for its flowers, and its nurseries attract shoppers from around the country, especially during the weeks leading up to . We spent a few hours among the colors and fragrances of the town’s “Flower Village”.

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An entire neighborhood in Sadec goes by the name of “Flower Village”. With a never-ending horizon of colorful blooms, traditionally-clad men and women plucking weeds, and tranquil ponds of blooming lotus plants set in front of rickety old shacks, the F...

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Published on April 07, 2017 21:53

The House of Huynh Thuy Le

The most stunning residence in Sadec is the former house of Huynh Thuy Le, made famous by Maugerite Duras’ semi-autobiographical novel, The Lover. Today, the house is open for tours, and also operates as a guesthouse. It’s impossible to imagine a more atmospheric place to stay while in Sadec, and we were unable to resist.

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The Lover recounts the story of a young French girl from Sadec, living in abject poverty with her widowed mother and two brothers. She meets a wealthy, older Chinese man on...

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Published on April 07, 2017 03:52

April 6, 2017

After One Month in Saigon

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Our first month in Saigon was just like our first motor-taxi ride: fast, fun, scary, exhilarating, and over before we knew what was happening. This city is a blast. We’ve had an amazing time getting comfortable with its pace, and getting to know its history, culture, people and food.

Most Memorable

Mike: Visiting the Grand Cao Dai Temple in Tay Ninh was a really special experience. It was so atmospheric and strange, with the exotic music and chanting, and the white-robed believers bowing a...

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Published on April 06, 2017 00:42