Michael Powell's Blog, page 33
August 8, 2017
The Marble Mountains
Five large hills look completely out of place along the otherwise-flat coastline between Danang and Hoi An. These are the Marble Mountains, each named for a different element: Thủy (Water), Hỏa (Fire), Thổ (Earth), Kim (Metal) and Mộc (Wood). They were once mined for rock, and a number of stone workshops are still found in the area, but today the mountains are a popular tourism destination.
The largest of the Marble Mountains, and the only one with an official entrance fee, is the Water Moun...
August 5, 2017
Six Special Dishes from Hoi An
For such a small city, Hoi An has a surprisingly rich food culture. There are dishes here which you can’t find anywhere else in Vietnam, and an abundance of great restaurants and street stalls in which to try them. If in doubt, head to the central market, where a delirious hall of food stands is serving up any specialty you could possibly hope for.
Cao Lầu
If you believe the local legends, Cao Lầu is a dish which can only be prepared in Hoi An. The water used to boil the noodles must be fr...
August 4, 2017
Hoi An’s Ancient Houses
Hoi An began life as a port for Chinese traders, the more successful of whom built stately city homes for their families. Many of these ancient houses have survived the trials of time, flood and war, and can today be visited as part of Hoi An’s ticket scheme. We made it to five.
House of Tan Ky
Built in the 19th Century, Tan Ky isn’t the oldest of Hoi An’s ancient houses, but it might be the best-preserved. This was a merchant’s quarters, with a rear entrance facing the river, which hosted t...
July 31, 2017
Cam Kim Island
Just across the Thu Bồn River river from Hoi An, Cam Kim is an island known for its traditional crafts and quiet way of life. We spent a morning biking around the island, enjoying the escape from Hoi An’s crowds.
After crossing the bridge which connects Cam Kim to the mainland, we headed toward the west into the village of Triêm Tây. A few cafes were set up along the riverfront, each clamoring for our business, but we’d already had breakfast. Too bad, these cafes looked cute, although they w...
July 26, 2017
The Ruins of Mỹ Sơn
About an hour southwest of Hoi An, is the archaeological site of Mỹ Sơn: the religious and ceremonial center of the Champa people, who once ruled central and southern Vietnam. With ruins dating between the 4th and 13th century AD, no less an authority than UNESCO describes the monuments of Mỹ Sơn as “unique and without equal in Southeast Asia“.
We arrived early and spent the entire morning walking around Mỹ Sơn. Set within a forest, surrounded by hills, and populated by the crumbling ruins o...
July 22, 2017
The Chinese Assembly Halls of Hoi An
Until the end of the 18th century, Hoi An was Vietnam’s main port-of-call, and home to a large number of foreign traders. Above all, the city was popular with the Chinese, many of whom established a permanent presence among the Vietnamese. Communities from the various regions of China built Assembly Halls: social and religious buildings in which they could congregate and worship their ancestral gods.
Today, five of the Chinese Assembly Halls can be visited under Hoi An’s (ridiculous) ticket...
July 13, 2017
A Week in Hoi An
The small city of Hoi An, just south of Danang, was once Vietnam’s principal port of trade, and one of the most important in all Asia. Those days are long past, but the town’s rich history is kept alive in the ancient quarter. Houses, communal halls, temples and bridges have remained in miraculous condition, and today, Hoi An is regularly hailed as the most beautiful city in Vietnam. We’d be spending a week here.
Hoi An is beautiful, there’s no doubt. Between the 15th and 19th centuries, thi...
July 11, 2017
To the North!
Toward the end of April, we went to the station in Saigon and boarded the Reunification Express, a train which connects the two capitals of the once-divided Vietnam. But we wouldn’t be taking the train straight to Hanoi, a journey which would require 34 hours. No, we’d be taking it in stages, pausing in a number of Vietnam’s most historic cities. First stop: Danang, “just” eighteen hours away.
Our journey north started under inauspicious circumstances. The train was delayed by over two hours...
July 9, 2017
Xin Chào, Hanoi!
When we chose Saigon as our seventeenth “For 91 Days” destination, we never expected that Hanoi might be the eighteenth. We’ve never stayed in a country for a second consecutive adventure, and it wasn’t even under consideration. But we never expected to be so completely enamored by the people, culture and cuisine of Vietnam. After spending three months in the south, we simply couldn’t leave without devoting an equal amount of time to the north.
Comparisons between the north and the south are...
June 26, 2017
Tạm Biệt, Saigon!
Noise, pollution, rats, cockroaches, insane traffic, incessant honking, unhygienic street kitchens, non-stop construction, and drunken singers who belt out horrible karaoke late into the night… Saigon has all of this and more! So how is it possible, that Jürgen and I enjoyed our 91 days here so completely? Yes, Saigon might suffer from everything which is wrong about big cities, but it also represents everything which is right. And in this case, the good outweighs the bad by a long shot.
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