Patrick Fealey's Blog, page 12
December 2, 2012
snapping
snapping
it’s sunday. my head hurts. i have to review a book. before i review it, i have to read it. i don’t want to read it. it’s sunday. my head hurts. i might feel better if i could write my own thoughts, but i have to review this book. i’ve read 14 pages. it’s an historical romance. a lot of people care about such things, even when they read like finding your car has been towed. it is so warped you can hear the trees worry about their reputations. but i have to review this book. it’s been published and the author is my editor’s friend, so i have to review it. i guess i should go now and read it. then i will interview the author and she will be foxy and confident. and i will give myself another headache submitting to the genre without being too negative. and the publisher will be silent and the writer may be dissatisfied and my editor will pay me and more lies will arrive in monday’s mail.
it’s sunday. my head hurts. i have to review a book. before i review it, i have to read it. i don’t want to read it. it’s sunday. my head hurts. i might feel better if i could write my own thoughts, but i have to review this book. i’ve read 14 pages. it’s an historical romance. a lot of people care about such things, even when they read like finding your car has been towed. it is so warped you can hear the trees worry about their reputations. but i have to review this book. it’s been published and the author is my editor’s friend, so i have to review it. i guess i should go now and read it. then i will interview the author and she will be foxy and confident. and i will give myself another headache submitting to the genre without being too negative. and the publisher will be silent and the writer may be dissatisfied and my editor will pay me and more lies will arrive in monday’s mail.
Published on December 02, 2012 10:01
November 30, 2012
her pending fame
her pending fame
she sat on my bed
and said she was where she wanted to be
like she’d fuck me if the others weren’t there
she was talking about van gogh
but i was just a music critic
and sitting on my bed was great networking
she was a blues singer and unknown
her style was a rip-off
of billie holiday, patsy cline, and janis joplin
she had long legs and she kissed me
painted my face red with lipstick while my friend laughed
she wrote my number in her small black book
she said she would call but she never did
because she knew i wouldn’t write a goddamn word
until i heard something original
i saw her in bars a few times
in her white acoustic cowboy boots
long black hair hanging in crazy tight curls
she was pale but for the red lipstick
i had cooled and lost track of her
it had unraveled the night she came to my place
we listened to her first demo
her voice was what you’d expect:
highly proficient spot-on copying
but the guitar tracks were great
i mentioned the guitar work
and she said, “they have to go. because the guitarist
mentioned royalties. he thinks
i’m going to be famous or something,” she said.
he wasn’t the only one, babe. babe.
she said his name and i knew juan well
had written about him several times
he was brian eno’s guitarist and one cool madman
on and off the axe and especially on the dobro
last time i saw her avoiding her pending fame
was on brook street in providence
she was going to a gig and invited me along
i passed and she persisted
-- the next thing i knew i was running down the street
to get away from her lipstick and guitar case,
prison to so many i admired
she sat on my bed
and said she was where she wanted to be
like she’d fuck me if the others weren’t there
she was talking about van gogh
but i was just a music critic
and sitting on my bed was great networking
she was a blues singer and unknown
her style was a rip-off
of billie holiday, patsy cline, and janis joplin
she had long legs and she kissed me
painted my face red with lipstick while my friend laughed
she wrote my number in her small black book
she said she would call but she never did
because she knew i wouldn’t write a goddamn word
until i heard something original
i saw her in bars a few times
in her white acoustic cowboy boots
long black hair hanging in crazy tight curls
she was pale but for the red lipstick
i had cooled and lost track of her
it had unraveled the night she came to my place
we listened to her first demo
her voice was what you’d expect:
highly proficient spot-on copying
but the guitar tracks were great
i mentioned the guitar work
and she said, “they have to go. because the guitarist
mentioned royalties. he thinks
i’m going to be famous or something,” she said.
he wasn’t the only one, babe. babe.
she said his name and i knew juan well
had written about him several times
he was brian eno’s guitarist and one cool madman
on and off the axe and especially on the dobro
last time i saw her avoiding her pending fame
was on brook street in providence
she was going to a gig and invited me along
i passed and she persisted
-- the next thing i knew i was running down the street
to get away from her lipstick and guitar case,
prison to so many i admired
Published on November 30, 2012 08:28
November 29, 2012
hand-job
hand-job
ragged novelist meets fabulous blonde fashionista. a former gap executive, she started her own clothing company on martha’s vineyard and grossed $800,000 a year. the writer lives in two rooms surviving off social security checks of $579 per month. he receives disability because he is one of the most fucked up minds in world history. he does not give a shit about her money, but she gives a shit about his clothes. before they can go out on the little town, he needs some Armani and Kenneth Cole. she’s got friends about and those black Reeboks look like they were issued on the funny farm. they have a discussion about his clothes, which is worse than discussing engine problems in a car you do not own. killing the conversation, he tells her she can get him some sandals, save her money for that waterfront house she is buying on cape cod. the relationship went on for some months and when she talked about cape cod, his participation was implicit. his mother told him to marry her, but he couldn’t see living with her, as much as he liked the cape, as much as he liked the idea that he could ask her for a Porsche. she was very enthusiastic about the material, so easily both smiling and shrewd. the scene was a scene and it was far from his two rooms and desk, where he came alive every morning. while he dined with her, showered with her, and fucked her, he knew he needed only one incident to break free. her downfall came one night on the day bed, when things got naked and fast. he was on his knees and she was leaned over him, sucking his cock. he felt that he might come. then she sat up and grabbed his wet cock. she commenced giving him a hand-job. it felt very good, but he thought it was a demotion and waste of semen. he threw her onto the floor and fucked her until she was screaming. she came. he came. the next day he took the ferry back to the mainland and home. he thought about his time on martha’s vineyard. what angered him was the hand-job. he was 35-years-old and had never encountered a woman who tried to give him a hand-job. he considered it weak and unromantic. at best, it was inexperience, which he did not tolerate well. at worst, it was a dodge. it was her choice. he could have gone along or he could have demanded she swallow his cock, but neither response was natural to him. he had handled the situation as best he could, but he did not like the idea of a girl who believed in hand-jobs. no matter how much he contemplated her point of view, he came up with the word lame. he wrote to her and ended it. he cut himself off from the beaches of martha’s vineyard and cape cod, shedded the Armani, Porsche, and this hot little blonde who thought she’d give him a hand.
ragged novelist meets fabulous blonde fashionista. a former gap executive, she started her own clothing company on martha’s vineyard and grossed $800,000 a year. the writer lives in two rooms surviving off social security checks of $579 per month. he receives disability because he is one of the most fucked up minds in world history. he does not give a shit about her money, but she gives a shit about his clothes. before they can go out on the little town, he needs some Armani and Kenneth Cole. she’s got friends about and those black Reeboks look like they were issued on the funny farm. they have a discussion about his clothes, which is worse than discussing engine problems in a car you do not own. killing the conversation, he tells her she can get him some sandals, save her money for that waterfront house she is buying on cape cod. the relationship went on for some months and when she talked about cape cod, his participation was implicit. his mother told him to marry her, but he couldn’t see living with her, as much as he liked the cape, as much as he liked the idea that he could ask her for a Porsche. she was very enthusiastic about the material, so easily both smiling and shrewd. the scene was a scene and it was far from his two rooms and desk, where he came alive every morning. while he dined with her, showered with her, and fucked her, he knew he needed only one incident to break free. her downfall came one night on the day bed, when things got naked and fast. he was on his knees and she was leaned over him, sucking his cock. he felt that he might come. then she sat up and grabbed his wet cock. she commenced giving him a hand-job. it felt very good, but he thought it was a demotion and waste of semen. he threw her onto the floor and fucked her until she was screaming. she came. he came. the next day he took the ferry back to the mainland and home. he thought about his time on martha’s vineyard. what angered him was the hand-job. he was 35-years-old and had never encountered a woman who tried to give him a hand-job. he considered it weak and unromantic. at best, it was inexperience, which he did not tolerate well. at worst, it was a dodge. it was her choice. he could have gone along or he could have demanded she swallow his cock, but neither response was natural to him. he had handled the situation as best he could, but he did not like the idea of a girl who believed in hand-jobs. no matter how much he contemplated her point of view, he came up with the word lame. he wrote to her and ended it. he cut himself off from the beaches of martha’s vineyard and cape cod, shedded the Armani, Porsche, and this hot little blonde who thought she’d give him a hand.
Published on November 29, 2012 09:35
November 27, 2012
girlfriend material
GIRLFRIEND MATERIAL
after a week
we pulled
ourselves out of bed
and went on our first date
we sat
with our chins
in our hands
until the food came
and L shouted
“THOSE MUSSLES LOOK LIKE MY PUSSY!”
Two couples at
the table nearest us turned
and broke out
laughing
the men laughing louder
than the women
i laughed, embarrassed, but this was L
We had met at the beach
on Sunday
and on tuesday, L said:
“YOUR COCK IS HUGE!
I WAS HOPING IT WOULD BE!
YOU DESERVE TO HAVE
A BIG COCK. SOME GUYS
DON’T.”
so do you, i said
By Thursday she was questioning my sheets
insisting that i wash them
she had a phobia about DUST MITES
“DUST MITES!
DUST MITES!
DUST MITES!”
by our one week anniversary
we were out of condoms
and L wanted to jump on my cock
“MY PUSSY IS THROBBING!”
We fucked most waking minutes
and afterwards she called me from
the bathroom
“IT’S SUCH A SHAME. ALL THIS
CUM WASTED.”.
i hoped so.
after a week
we pulled
ourselves out of bed
and went on our first date
we sat
with our chins
in our hands
until the food came
and L shouted
“THOSE MUSSLES LOOK LIKE MY PUSSY!”
Two couples at
the table nearest us turned
and broke out
laughing
the men laughing louder
than the women
i laughed, embarrassed, but this was L
We had met at the beach
on Sunday
and on tuesday, L said:
“YOUR COCK IS HUGE!
I WAS HOPING IT WOULD BE!
YOU DESERVE TO HAVE
A BIG COCK. SOME GUYS
DON’T.”
so do you, i said
By Thursday she was questioning my sheets
insisting that i wash them
she had a phobia about DUST MITES
“DUST MITES!
DUST MITES!
DUST MITES!”
by our one week anniversary
we were out of condoms
and L wanted to jump on my cock
“MY PUSSY IS THROBBING!”
We fucked most waking minutes
and afterwards she called me from
the bathroom
“IT’S SUCH A SHAME. ALL THIS
CUM WASTED.”.
i hoped so.
Published on November 27, 2012 09:57
friends
friends
Michaela – drowned scuba diving
brian – a drunk hit his motorcylce
jim – pancreatic cancer
bob – stroke
lou -- aneurism
mudslide – drowned off fishing boat
amber – overdosed
gannon – shotgun
david – peritonitis after botched hernia surgery
when i think
of my
best friends
and lovers
and friends
who have
died
i don’t think
about how i miss them
or how they were
so much
as i think about
how i wish they
were alive
for other people
to discover
the bike’s odometer
was pulled from the
wreckage
pegged at 85 mph
what i cannot say
what i cannot do
what is lost
Michaela – drowned scuba diving
brian – a drunk hit his motorcylce
jim – pancreatic cancer
bob – stroke
lou -- aneurism
mudslide – drowned off fishing boat
amber – overdosed
gannon – shotgun
david – peritonitis after botched hernia surgery
when i think
of my
best friends
and lovers
and friends
who have
died
i don’t think
about how i miss them
or how they were
so much
as i think about
how i wish they
were alive
for other people
to discover
the bike’s odometer
was pulled from the
wreckage
pegged at 85 mph
what i cannot say
what i cannot do
what is lost
Published on November 27, 2012 09:50
November 26, 2012
drug agent (literary)
a star
really a meteor
falls
behind her
as
she asks me
what success will change
in me
if anything
she wants to know
if an advance
will hasten my
trip to the morgue
by putting a
ticket to afghani
in my veins
i tell her
i will quit the scene
subtract temptation
from my weakness
& move off skid row
& quit
& go surfing
she doesn’t want to
fund an
overdose
mainly because
she and my sister
have been
lifelong friends
this is only the first
conflict
i have with this
new literary agent
outside
on a wednesday night
under the stars
standing beside her
mercedez
leveled and tuned
to a morphine groove
while she leaned
spread
against her car
while her boyfriend
fucked some chick
i saw her there
waiting
and
i was too high
to fuck around
Published on November 26, 2012 11:46
art the bastard
art the bastard
my landlord
thanked me
after he cut
his hand
on a power saw
he builds furniture
after a career
as a professor
teaching chemistry
and history
his obsession
is the Nazis,
but he loves
his cat
and making furniture
he spilled blood
all over the
kitchen floor
and i cleaned it
while he was
in the
ambulance
when he got back
wearing stitches
and gauze
he saw the clean floor
and thanked me
but after i painted
a canvas
of his giant farmhouse
and he ogled it
and i gave him
the painting
he
did not
thank me
Published on November 26, 2012 11:42
November 24, 2012
los angeles
los angeles
bobo left for the big football game in late morning. kick-off was a couple hours away, but he wanted to extract a full day and night from those 60 minutes of play time. i was on the couch, healing.
bobo had made every effort to impress upon his pizza-boy brother that he would be seeing the u.s.c.-notre dame game in person, whereas the snark and i would have to settle for the tube. since i cared only about gladiators and surfing, bobo’s bragging was, for me, mostly a hint that if i stayed on the couch i’d be stuck with a pissed-off snark all day, especially if the fighting irish were behind.
bobo: “there’s gonna be a million people, all drinking beer and screaming for touchdowns and hotdogs! i’m gonna be in heaven! while you’re here watching pick-up truck commercials!”
“don’t forget the announcers,” i added.
“yeah, that’s right. i’m gonna be thinking for myself!"
i gathered from my prone and blanketed position that the snark’s silence meant he was clinging to the hope of some hail mary death in his family, or any family with a ticket. then he marched to the kitchen in his slippers and came back with a beer, sat down in front of the tv.
some cartoon was on.
he didn’t look at bobo:
“maybe the big one will hit and your ass will score a goal post.”
bobo: “or maybe i’ll be smothered under an avalanche of beer bellies! in which case i couldn’t hope for a more respectable way to ascend. i plan to smother a few myself!”
snark: “not with that pathetic skeleton. your physique is the reason i should be going. you are not an appropriate representative.”
“i will drink aplenty in compensatory compensation, representing only myself.”
snark: “a two-headed humiliation. just go. leave me alone.”
bobo: “i await upon my transport to the stadium momentarily among the peasant class of amateur collegiate sports fans, the television class for whom i shall diligently prepare an account of what really happened, as well as a diary chronicling more personal moments, in order to thus provide color and imagery with which you may fill in your forthcoming inexperiences - without intent of augmenting and agitating jealousies, of course.”
“fuck off!”
bobo had balls going to this game. it seemed mercenary. but practical. sense is brutal. what else could he do? he wanted to go and there she died and there he would be. he was acknowledging the death of a friend’s mother by sitting in her seat, with the father and sons who lost her. he is amidst their loss now and that is not easy. he is in it more than the other relatives, any of us. this is the family, minus one, plus bobo. if you say he is tactless for asking for the ticket, or without conscience, then you still must say that each time they look over and see bobo and not their mother, they will see a friend and a positive reminder of her. reminders are as inescapable as death. his self-interest is acceptable. as a son with a mother, i would prefer his laughter to an empty seat or the face of a stranger asking “is anybody sitting here?” bobo took it and i think he knew at least instinctively that his participation would be best for everyone. bobo took pressure off those around him. good in giant surf, good in death.
after bobo’s departure, the snark became more anxious about the game. he made several round-trips to the kitchen the half hour before kick-off. as he re-entered the family room his eyes were on the television to be sure the talking heads were still engaged in pre-game foreplay. each time he stood up when a commercial came on, i got uneasy. what if the game started while he was at the other end of the house? was i supposed to go get him? he would blame me if he missed the coin toss. i already had enough problems without his football disorders.
i was lying on a couch looking like a bruised eggplant. i was alert and lucid and immobile, and about to puke while the snark yapped about notre dame in response to some numbers on the screen. he said bobo was an ass for not taking the scholarship to the university of southern california, that bobo could have played pro ball so long as he was not injured, that i needed to see how these stars ordered pizza to know the lifestyle he was talking about, to see their houses, and that bobo had been unfaithful to responsibility in general and despite how it looked and what he said, he, the snark, wanted his brother to be famous. that was why he was mad.
i sat up. “bobo had a scholarship to u.s.c.?”
“he never told you?” the snark said. “he was all-state defensive tackle for hermosa four years straight. more sacks than anyone. he broke all the state records. he’d be starting in this fucking game.”
i needed a helmet.
“football is the only reason bobo got into humboldt,” the snark said. “he’s been dodging the coaches since he got there. he just used it to surf and drink beer.”
“he has a football scholarship?”
“what do you think, his a’s in golf, surfing, and volley ball got him in?”
bobo was at the game, drinking amidst his definition of the privileged, on his third beer. the snark could think of nothing worse than seeing his brother on tv hoisting a cup of budweiser with his absurd grin.
“if i see his face, even if it’s only in the pack, i’ll, i don’t know what. he’s already at the fucking game.”
i could take no more of the snark. his bathrobe was damaging my psyche. i was feeling that despair. i had to do something, act, get out before my defenses against the snark made him superficially acceptable.
“snark?”
“what?”
“i’m gonna check the waves.”
“okay. whatever.”
bud, bobo’s lab mutt, was outside the back slider, chained to los angeles. i stroked his head. he couldn’t come. once again.
the keys were under the seat. weederman, it was easy. he would find the waves. downhill. the waves would shake the hangover the easy way. a last session before we split for humboldt. tonight i would be driving north. bobo would be in a beer coma, anchored by hotdogs. he would speak in horse farts. i’d be staring out the split windshield at 1,000 miles of orange trees while he snored and puked in the rearview. he would be digging himself in while i fought to keep my eyes open on a stretch of i-5 so wide and endless that i would succumb to racing thoughts and suicidal ideation. we’re leaving this town tonight. this is it. we’d passed on santa cruz, rincon had been flat, and baja had fallen through to pigeon gobbles and asscracks. in the end, there was l.a.
so bobo was a fugitive at humboldt. bobo didn’t talk about football up at school. i knew he had played in high school. that’s all. there must have been some fuck-up or forbearance with his tuition. it would not last. maybe the coaches were still waiting for him to pull up. or maybe, maybe he didn’t even have classes? i had not really paid close attention to his academic life, but i hadn’t seen much of one. it took the snark to blow his cover. if bobo had evaded u.s.c.’s attempt to turn him into a star, bobo had said no to a different life. it was a gateway into the ultimate american dream and he had chosen to go surfing and open beers with his buddies. it was difficult for a guy like the snark to grasp personality when confronted with fame and money. the snark respected the television. the snark got a kick out of delivering pizzas to mansions. bobo had a simpler vision of freedom for himself and so far as i knew, he didn’t give a damn about football. he did not follow teams or players. the crevice bowl was a once-a-year joke with his buddies. and this u.s.c.-notre dame game was a gigantic beer tap with 50,000 guys up to the urinal. i had only known bobo two years after his decision, but it seemed to me he was who he had always been and he had done the only thing possible. or he had at least done the right thing. when we got home i’d ask him about these football scholarships, but i already heard his laughter.
down sepulveda. through manhattan beach. the pacific horizon. and then the sand. there were waves, yes. i pulled into an empty lot. the pier was off to the right. a set came in, four or five feet, pushing while they peeled and turning hollow on the inside. the water was a translucent green inside and blue in the sun out to the horizon. another south swell and there was nobody out yet. just a body boarder in the lot.
stucco marked the arc of the bay, tight as a dam. backyard of the city, the city of backyards. telephone wires thrown up in ball tangles, waves at my feet. i got into my wetsuit near the sign: “changing in this lot is prohibited and violators are subject to a fine.” fine and prohibited were the women jogging and rollerblading the strand in licra shorts and tank tops. an old guy was doing yoga in the sand. he was small and had the tan of a man with time. he had long, defined muscles. age had backed off him. in his 70s, the guy looked like he could kick my ass. fronds moved high in the offshore. the sand was fine and white. where the sand was wet, i saw orange-beige granules, paler than the brown sand in humboldt. i met the body-boarder while i was putting on my leash. jeff. a friendly kid. there were a few black stains on the sand. there was a refinery just up the coast. spills were routine, bobo had said. and sewage. the whole south bay had been closed recently because of sewage. bobo had laughed. in the distance, malibu was a crescent sun lying on its side, looking better and separate. between sets, i jumped in and paddled out.
my arms and shoulders burned, they were knotted, but the stiffness would break. water on my face chased some of the nausea. i paddled out along the piles. floated over the corrugated sand. pelicans were atop the pier railings, watching for fish. big birds, those pelicans, like fat old men with skinny legs and sagging chins. the horizon shook into lines. i dropped onto my board and was outside in time. i let the first wave pass. the second was thick and clean. the first wave crashed behind me and i met the second wave and turned. i stroked and it lifted me, it had me. i dropped and carved right off the bottom, found the slot and flew as the water cascaded behind me. a snap off the lip and i dropped in ahead of the curl. the lip zipped me inside, the white homes turned green. the tube closed out fast and i hit the bottom. i surfaced with stinging eyes and a burning throat. i coughed out onions. my sinuses burned. even my ears. the south bay cesspool had rushed into my skull. the bay, the backyard was poison. i paddled back out. the waves were too good to think about mucous membranes. but i couldn’t wait to get back north to moonstone. i sat in the cesspool and made excuses for mankind. where do you piss on a clean planet?
i sat outside, waiting on the next set. the body-boarder had hooked up with a nice ride and i hooted for him. from the pier above, people watched us. i’d watched surfers from the pier and the birds and fish were more interesting. the sandy bottom seemed united with the surface. the diving birds trailed bubbles as they chased fish in a private dimension. at the surface the birds’ orange feet pushed them along. the ducks were fast underwater. the body-boarder had taken his wave into the whitewater. he stood up. i saw three guys suiting up in the lot behind him. a small blow to our session. i would have preferred my one friend, but three more guys was not a crowd. there were plenty of waves. they paddled out in a loud chevron, migrating from land to sea, swearing all the way to the line-up, which was me. the bodyboarder drifted off to the right, inside a distance. the three new guys glanced at me like i was playing badminton.
they erupted, “i got it! it’s me! i got it! it’s mine!”
the set they had claimed was far outside. one of them caught a small wave. he jerked like a moth against glass. i was paddling in perfect position. then a guy moved in from the left. he paddled by in front of me and set himself to my right, to drop in on my wave. i was in perfect position and went for the wave. as i paddled, his buddy came from the left and stopped in front of me. he floated, blocking, looking at me. he had a big head and his wet suit was tight. i couldn’t take off. the wave came and the first guy took it all the way to shore, hooting for himself.
“tough one, dude,” said the kid in the tight wetsuit.
a perfect five footer rolled in and i paddled for it. the prick who had dropped in on me was out toward the pier and it was his wave. should have been. tough one, dude. i paddled for it while out behind me he caught it. i dropped into his path. his wave peeled perfectly in to shore for me. i tore the gutts out of his ride. he screamed at my back all the way in and was waiting behind me in the shallows.
“you asshole! what do you think you’re doing?” he stepped toward me.
“you do it to me. i do it to you. pretty simple.”
he didn’t know what to say. until we were paddling out and his friends came to help him think. the three turned on me, paddled into my face. his buddies closed in on my right and left. the moth formation. “i am an unstable person,” he said. “i might hurt you.”
i smiled.
one of them jabbed the nose of his board at my face. “how do ya like that?” he said.
the waves beckoned. i paddled out along the pier to the end to wait for a big set. i was as far out to the left as i could get without being tangled in the lines of the shark fishermen. waiting and knowing it would come. the waves were building, each set a surprise gift. the big set came and i stroked into a lesser wave that would have been big an hour ago. i shot down the clean line. ahead, one of my friends descended the face into my path. his timing was perfect for a collision. i had to bail or hit him. on my way down i kicked my board at the backs of his knees, i saw it hit him before i went under. i surfaced to find the torpedo had sure taken him down. we paddled back out like nothing had happened. what were these guys like out of the water, aside from evidence that life allows for the unbeautiful and stupid? we sat in the line-up. it was quiet. we were between sets. my eyes met eyes.
“you’re not having fun, are you?” he said. he grinned. his buddy laughed.
i said nothing. it was true. the waves were great. the weather was great. the surfing sucked.
maybe god had sat in the pacific bathtub because the sky gave it up. a wave. we all scrambled for the redefined outside, way out. this set was going to move pelicans. it looked to be a lone wave, huge. my point of view changed from “that wave” to “my ass” and i dug into the south bay. i got far enough out and was in good position, but i saw one of the moths was further out, past the end of the pier, where i'd caught the wave his friend had dropped in on. the giant wave was his, but i had little confidence he would make it and i did not bet on him. the wave arrived and i stroked and kicked until it grabbed me. i rose and dropped down the double over-head wall. i leaned in and carved off the bottom. i heard screams behind me. he had made the wave. i’d cut him off. i was stealing his wave. the best wave of the day stretched before me and i felt a requirement to claim it. tough one, dude. the guy howled. the wave peeled. he stayed on my ass forever. i ironed that wave out for him until the lip lifted clear green. i broke into the blue sky . . . i stood in the shallows on hard sand, face to face with a california brother. his eyes were dark and sick with disbelief, as if he did not know where i had come from. his forehead wrinkled and his lips started, but nothing came out. i waited for it, but he didn’t say anything.
“yeah, i’m having fun,” i said, “lots of it.”
the moths fluttered up the beach to a new 4-wheel drive toyota. another spot? the oil refinery was a good spot. they threw their boards in back and changed under the palms. i kept an eye on weederman. if these pricks didn’t know surfing, they didn’t know freedom. it was good to see them go. the ignorance and noise were pollutants worse than a hangover. it was the bodyboarder and me. and the building waves. but my arms were tired and i was dehydrated. the worst of the hangover was gone, but i was thirsty. i paddled for a wave and caught it late, wiped out head-first into the cold stink. i was suddenly feeling beat. they were gone. i was coming down, my adrenalin wasted. the exhaustion was coming. i did not find stoke. i was not having fun. i had surfed with the low, like the low, better at low than the low, like someone else. this is where my surfing now was. i sat and floated at the end of the pier, where the guys were fishing in a tournament for toxic sharks. i knew i should just go in before a wave killed me. the waves, the waves. the sun lowered, spilling red onto blue. i sat and waited for a wave. the sky went orange. one more wave, one last good one more.
the bodyboarder, jeff, kicked back over. “they were a bunch of kooks,” he said. a 747 rose out of lax and crossed from land to sea, rising into the color so slowly.
Published on November 24, 2012 09:14