Rolf Potts's Blog, page 93

A grandmother and a bullfighter

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

Eola is a 67-year old grandmother who I met while trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal. Conchi Rios is a 20-year old female matador that I didn’t meet, at least not in person. I watched her from a distance of 50 feet or so as she fought two frothing-at-the-mouth bulls in the famous Las Ventas bullfighting ring in Madrid.  Eola doesn’t know Conchi, and Conchi doesn’t know Eola.

But both women—who I met within the span of one month—blew me away.

Eola looks like she could be your local librarian: five feet tall, cropped white hair, glasses, and a gentle voice.  When she walked into the dining room of our Himalayan lodge, I was surprised to see that she was alone, save for her Nepali guide, Bijaya.  She had decided to embark on a solo journey in Asia for several months—a feat that was in itself impressive, especially for someone her age.

And then she started telling stories.  She had crossed into Nepal from India in the far west, through the country’s most remote and least-used border. Next, she related a story of jeep travel on a road, that, according to recent maps and everyone I’ve spoken to, was not yet passable by vehicle. (And, as anyone who’s traveled on Himalayan jeep tracks knows, even “passable” roads are glorified dances with death: narrow, rough-hewn pathways that inevitably have a fatal drop on one side.) In the most casual of tones—she could have been talking about planting tulips in her garden—she related how they maneuvered around a hillside turn so sharp that the driver had to make a K-turn to get around it.  Another time, she and Bijaya found themselves being driven by a wild teenager who didn’t have good command of the vehicle.  They stalled out over a precipitous drop, and when the driver accidentally put the car in drive instead of reverse, Bijaya yelled at her: “Get out!” As she recalled this story, Bijaya looked a bit freaked out, but Eola was almost giggling.

Then there was the time a few weeks ago when, on a jungle trek, they got too close to a horny elephant, and she and the jungle-trek guide had to bolt through the forest and across a river; the time she stopped by an elementary school in India and ending up teaching English classes all day; and then there were the naked, shamanic spiritual fire-breathing ceremonies she leads in Ecuador.  We talked for hours, and when it was time to retire to bed, it was all I could do to ask if I could take a picture with her.

Given Eola’s strong spiritual side, I’m not sure that she’d approve of Conchi’s career path, which involves slaughtering copious numbers of bulls.  Bullfighting, an integral part of Spanish culture, has always been considered the ultimate machismo.  You think man versus beast, not woman versus beast.

So when Conchi first stepped into the ring, her brown hair tied back in a ponytail beneath her pointed matador’s hat, I thought: Is that really a woman? But as Conchi began grunting at the bull, her mellifluous voice gave away her gender. Even the spectator sitting next to me was surprised. “It’s rare to see a woman,” he said.

Watching Conchi standing in the ring—a young woman facing a furious, salivating 1,000-pound beast—I was in awe not only of her courage to face the bull, but also of her ability to stand in a ring in front of hundreds of drunken male spectators. And I also felt pride—for our gender. As Conchi waved her red flag and guided the bull to charge straight towards her, I thought: damn, that is one badass woman. Which is exactly how I felt when I met Eola a month earlier.

I meet many amazing ladies on the road, but it’s rare for me to be completely bowled over by the courage of another female. Conchi and Eola got me thinking: what does it to mean to be inspired by someone?

It means that you look up to them because they’ve done something you haven’t.  Either because you don’t have the courage to do it (and can never envision yourself doing it), or haven’t yet had the opportunity in life to do it (and may never have).

I will probably never fight a bull in my life, so Conchi will remain for me, in the latter category. But I can aspire to Eola’s strength, and hope that forty years from now, I am still going trekking in Nepal. Though I’ll probably avoid those jeeps.

Original article can be found here: A grandmother and a bullfighter

Work-Stays: Making a buck abroad

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

As most travelers probably know, there’s more than one way to get yourself a great adventure far from home. Last week I wrote a bit about teaching ESL in a foreign country. This week, a bit about another great way to make a buck abroad: work-stays.

Lots of establishments—ranging from host farms (organic and non-organic), lodges, B&Bs, backpackers hostels, and just plain homes—invite travelers to help out in exchange for accommodation and meals. The short-term “guests” pitch in some light labor (usually four hours or so a day) while getting meals, a bed, and a great big dose of the local culture in the process.

Due to the seasonal nature of agriculture, helping out on a farm bailing hay, picking grapes in a vineyard, or picking berries at an orchard can be a great way to survive a summer abroad on little to no money.

The old system was a casual arrangement whereby owners of farms asked for help by putting up a flyer on the local hostel’s notice board. Word of mouth spread the work-stay gospel as well, and travelers soon began swapping information on the best locations, working conditions, and employers.

As like everything else, the method of finding the opportunities changed with the arrival of the internet. Now the web is loaded with good sites functioning as a digital, world-wide hostel notice board. Any traveler with a connection can find good opportunities, get advice, and interact with prospective employers around the globe.

Some helpful resources aimed at connecting travelers to work-stay opportunities include: http://www.helpx.net/ (one of the original work-stay info hubs), http://www.adventurejobs.co.uk/ (geared toward resort work), http://www.overseasjobcentre.co.uk/ ( a pretty comprehensive site with lots of opportunities), and http://www.anyworkanywhere.com/ (another good site loaded with helpful links).

Skills like agriculture, animal care, boat-crewing, and carpentry are valuable  in various pockets of the globe. Being a certified instructor of boating, tennis, or scuba diving are valuable in resorts. Aside from the monetary savings, the opportunity to live with the locals and participate in their day-to-day life is well worth the work.

Next week I’ll cover summer volunteering in Europe, another great way to connect and be useful in the unlikely (but possible) scenario that you’ve got enough cash to last part of the summer without a gig.

 

Original article can be found here: Work-Stays: Making a buck abroad

Vagabonding as a rock musician: a step by step guide. Post #6: How to get the max out of a van

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

This article is the sixth in a series of posts explaining how to bring your music on the road and get to travel with it. Read the series’ introduction , Post#1 , Post # 2 , Post #3  , Post #4 and Post #5

Photo Credit: http://www.metalinjection.net/editori...

In my last post I concluded that vans are the ideal mean of transportation for a touring band: more comfortable, more professional and, at last, a possible place to sleep when everything else fails on the road.  I would like to expand the topic and give you some useful suggestions to get yourself and your van ready for touring.

First of all, most probably you will not be able to afford the luxury to buy a van, especially in Europe: unlike in the USA, they are expensive and have high road taxes and insurance to pay every year. Therefore, unless you are playing shows every weekend or own a booking agency, you will most likely resort to rent one for your tours or shorter periods of time.

Speaking of rentals, generally a van would cost in between 80 to 100 Euros per day. This is definitely not that cheap, especially considering the extra cost of petrol. However, you have to budget rental fees into your daily expenses and make them work according to your shows’ guarantees. If it may sound easier, some booking agencies also offer full rental packages including a backline and a driver – very handy to cruise the narrow European lanes for first timers – for a few Euros a day more.

When choosing a van, consider that smaller vans would require you to take out the last row of seats in order to make room for backline and luggage. For this reason, it would probably be wiser and easier for maximal comfort to leave friends and girlfriends at home, and travel with your bandmates only. For example, in Europe vans can generally fit a maximum of nine passengers, and you would be left with six seats only when loading luggage. On average, three to four bandmates, a roadie and an extra helper  – a tour manager, merchandise seller etc. – would already make for a crammed van.

I will not suggest a particular kind of van as it would be just impossible to individuate the “best of”. However, besides comfort, your vehicle should be safe and sound. This means you should choose a reputable rental company or make sure you have some sort of insurance: it is not uncommon to rent old vehicles, and have problems along the way. I may tell countless tales of friends who rented a van in southern Europe, and had to abandon it somewhere in the North with a melted engine, having to cancel several shows in the process. This would waste your time and your earnings, as a tour is generally a matter of a few weeks only. For this reason, be well aware of what you choose and the people you deal with, as the rock and roll business is thriving with shady entities.

Get yourself prepared to travel light and bring the essential backline only; make space for it in the trunk, or practically remove the last row of seats, as I suggested. Another practical tip would be to pack the drumset by removing the kick’s outer skin, and insert the other drums in it, like if mounting a Russian matrioska. Consider carrying one half-stack and one amp head per instrument, and you should be good to go. And of course, factor some space for your merchandise box, the best source of earnings while on the road.

Now, prepare your favorite soundtrack on an Mp3 player and get a cable to blast it trough the van’s sound system, and you should really be all geared up to go. And in case you do your own driving, if a GPS is too expensive to rent or buy, remember to print out your own directions. Trust me, I would have been stranded in the Dutch or German countryside countless times if I didn’t!!

Original article can be found here: Vagabonding as a rock musician: a step by step guide. Post #6: How to get the max out of a van

Evolution of hostels

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

Can you imagine being woken up at a hostel at 7:30am to chop fire wood or complete your chores before breakfast?

Chore detail had fizzled-out before 2009 when I hostel hopped for several months; spending anywhere from three nights to two weeks at various places. Personally, I enjoyed seeking out the odd ones, like old prisons or sailing ships. But what I discovered recently was, that same year the concept of youth hostels had officially been around for a century!

First youth hostel, Rhine Valley Germany photo/castles.org

Apparently the idea came from Richard Schirrmann who led extended hikes across the German countryside and sought shelter for his group at farms along the way. But on one rainy night in the summer of 1909 Schirrmann and his companions were turned away by a farmer. Though they weren’t forced to resort to sleeping in the rain; it was a close enough call that he dreamed up the vision of widespread dorm-type accommodations. A year later the first youth hostel opened at Altena Castle in Rhine Valley which is still in operation to this day.

In the beginning beds were stuffed with straw, chores part of the payment and everyone was required to be out exploring during daylight hours. But now each one has its own social vibe and offers creature comforts. Hostels actually do more business than large hotel chains and are progressing with demands by offering smaller more private rooms.

How different would backpacking be without hostels? Have you ever done chores while staying at one?

Original article can be found here: Evolution of hostels

A flexible itinerary or “test” trip can benefit first-time vagabonders

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

I remember reading a blog post before I left for my trip recommending that first-time travelers take a 5- to 7-week test trip to determine if long-term travel was right for them.

I disregarded this advice, as I didn’t really question whether I’d like traveling – I’d dreamed of it my whole life, and the pull to do it was strong enough that I was willing to quit a job I loved for it.

Three months later, here I am recommending a test trip – but for different reasons.

It’s not so much about figuring out if it’s right for you, but figuring out how it’s right for you. There are many styles of vagabonding – you could get a RTW ticket, you could work and live in one place abroad for a longer period, you could simply wander. If you haven’t traveled for more than a few weeks (which is likely the case for many career breakers from the U.S. like me) there’s no way of knowing your own travel style and what will work best for you.

I knew I couldn’t know the answers to these things before leaving, so I knew I had to just go and would figure it out from there. I didn’t specifically view every little thing as a test, but I found myself constantly learning what I liked and what type of travel could work for me. Now, I’m home on a pit stop (slightly unexpectedly but in a good way), planning the next phase of my journey, using all that I’ve learned to inform my decisions.

I don’t think a test trip necessarily means you need to leave, come home and then leave again; you can learn and adjust along the way without coming home, as long as you keep your trip flexible. That means holding off on buying the 1-year RTW ticket or taking the job teaching English abroad, if possible, until you know that style of travel is right for you.

Below are some of the things I’ve gained insight on in my first three months of travel, and while I still have a lot to learn, I know that I couldn’t have had answers to any of these things without first simply going and testing it out.

Fast vs. slow – I met a traveler whose style was go to as fast as possible, seeing all the main sites and then quickly moving to the next place, with plans to return in the future for longer periods in the places he really liked. While this format works for him, I learned that I would rather spend time in a place, understanding it as much as possible beyond the key sites. Other travelers fall somewhere in the middle. But either way, it’s hard to know without doing it, and this is a big dictator of how to set your itinerary so it’s important to know before setting out.

Tourism vs. immersion – After spending six weeks in a small town in Guatemala that sees few tourists, going to a big city full of “sites to see” was a bit of a culture shock that quickly taught me that I preferred the former. Of course, a big part of travel is seeing the sites – the natural wonders and historical buildings that only exist in that place – and I absolutely want to see them, but I have learned that I also enjoy immersing myself in smaller towns and cultural experiences for longer periods whenever possible. Again, knowing this can dictate where to go and how much time to estimate for each location for future trips.

Work and travel vs. work to travel – This remains one of the biggest questions, but after meeting so many different travelers and expats (including staying a few days in a suburb of Santiago, Chile, in an expat community) I now have perspective on the various options. It always sounds so dreamy to think about teaching English abroad or being a “digital nomad,” but seeing it in action can help you understand if it’s really for you, or if you prefer to have a “home” life and job that allows flexibility for travel. If you’ve quit your job to embrace the vagabonding lifestyle, knowing this before jumping in is essential.

Live abroad vs. travel abroad – Similar to above, traveling for a few months can give you insight as to whether you’d like to live in one place for a long period, or if you prefer to keep moving. Although I enjoy spending time in places, I also always get an itch for change and to see new things after a while – something I wouldn’t have known without traveling for a bit. Similarly, traveling for an extended period can help you know how long you like to be on the road for – some people can go for years, while others prefer a few months at a time.

Taking on a traveling lifestyle a big life decision, and just like we often test other life decisions – we get internships before jobs, rent before buying, date before getting engaged – it makes sense to learn how you like to travel before committing to a format. That doesn’t mean to go into your first trip timidly and strictly, assessing everything, it means quite the opposite – just let go and keep an open mind, and you’ll figure out the rest later.

Travelers, what do you think about staying flexible on the first trip?

Original article can be found here: A flexible itinerary or “test” trip can benefit first-time vagabonders

National pastime: A thing of the past?

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

After 8 months of calling Bangkok home, I moved on and set off for Madrid to embark on a month-long brother-sister adventure through Western Europe. As I walk the city streets today I think about what defines this culture. I think of sangria and tapas, of late dinners and long nights, of Picasso and Goya, and finally of the Spanish bull, arguably Spain’s most iconic symbol. The bullfights have defined my image of the country since I first laid eyes on a wrinkled bullfighting poster in my grandmother’s basement. Only on my first trip to Spain at age 15 did I realize that my uncle Jim Martin was not, in fact, a famous bullfighter. (Customized bullfighting posters are one of Spain’s most popular souvenirs.)

The shops around La Plaza Mayor are plastered with images of swift matadors fooling their beasts. Vendors sell stickers, t-shirts and keychains with the famed Spanish bull to flocks of tourists looking to take home a memory of their holiday. The bullfighter is Spain’s celebrity without a face, respected and admired by Spaniards and visitors alike. But not everyone is a fan of this cultural institution.

My brother reminds me that bullfighting is on thin ice. Ethical questions surrounding the centuries-old tradition (a tradition that defines the country) could perhaps end it for good. Effective January 1st of this year, Catalonia became the first region to ban it. It’s viewed as a cruel blood sport, in which the bull suffers a long and painful death in front of thousands of spectators. Groups like Antitauromaquia, SopOurShame, and PETA continue to fight to put an end to bullfighting. They hope that the rest of Spain will follow Catalonia’s lead and abolish the tortuous sport for good.

Though only the bulls are condemned to die, matadors also face potentially-fatal risks. Fighters have been paralyzed, gored, and even killed as they have carry on this tradition in the bullring. Remember the bullfighter who was gored in the neck last October? The now recovered Juan Jose Padilla continues to stand by Spanish tradition, and has returned — albeit with an eyepatch and a paralyzed face — to the ring. “I regret that there are people who have a contemptuous image of the corrida. These people are not familiar with our art. They reject bullfighting out of ignorance. Injuries are my medals – and now I’ve won gold.”

Would an end to bullfighting culture change the country for the better? Would eliminating the “art” of bullfighting also eliminate the most important part of Spanish culture? Supporters argue that bullfighting is fair and noble, a sovereign spectacle that belongs to the people. They maintain that activists should dedicate their time to other issues such as poverty, education, and healthcare instead of wasting it on taking away the soul of Spanish culture.

 

What do you think? Would Spain still be Spain in the absence of the matador and his beast?

Original article can be found here: National pastime: A thing of the past?

The longest journey really does start with a single step

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

“You and your husband are made of a different cloth,” a friend told me a few hours ago. “To take your kids and head out for a 500-mile hike… I don’t know how you do it.”

And yet really, we aren’t made of a different cloth at all. We’re just normal people just like him. And you. The only thing different about us is that we’ve learned a very important lesson:

The longest journey really does start with a single step. And then it continues with another step after that. And another.

Once you know that, you can ride a bike around the world or hike 500 miles or… well, the sky’s the limit. You can dream big because you know it’s all about taking it one step at a time.

Mark Beaumont, who broke the world record as the fastest to cycle around the world, put it this way: If you take care of today, the big picture will take care of itself. In his case, today meant cycling 100 miles. He knew he could do that. 100 miles was doable. He didn’t think about tomorrow’s hundred miles or the next day; he focused on what he needed to do today. And the big picture took care of itself.

Don’t shy away from big dreams because they’re too scary. If you look at it in its entirety, yes, it’s enormous. But really, the only difference between a small goal and a big one is the number of steps. If you can take one of those steps, you can take them all.

Nancy Sathre-Vogel is mom to Family on Bikes, a family of four who recently rode their bikes 17,000 miles from Alaska to Argentina. They are now preparing to hike 500 miles from Denver to Durango. She blogs about lessons learned from their journeys at www.familyonbikes.org

Original article can be found here: The longest journey really does start with a single step

A fast way to calculate cost of living in different countries

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

A bill and a calculator. Photo: Dave Dugdale / Flickr

Considering costs is a vital part of planning your entry into expat life. Neglecting budgeting can abruptly cut short a stay. On the other hand, a little financial planning can pay off in a longer and more enriching lifestyle than you dreamed possible.

A great web-based tool for this is Numbeo. Just type in the name of a city or select a country from the drop-down list.  You get the standard information, like how much expensive it is to rent an apartment. You also get much more detailed figures, such as the cost of imported vs. domestic beer.  Near the bottom of the page there will be a colored pie chart, showing which expenses will take the most bite out of your budget.

Money isn’t everything, however. More expensive isn’t always better, and cheap isn’t always a bargain. You might want to drill down even deeper to determine quality of life. You could be torn between two countries that seem almost equally attractive to reside in. In that case, you can try using If It Were My Home. You can choose two countries and get a breakdown comparing them on life expectancy, health care, and other important factors.

Have you been an expat? What tools did you use to do research? Please share your tips and experiences in the comments.

Original article can be found here: A fast way to calculate cost of living in different countries

The easier an experience, the fainter our sensation of it becomes

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

“Without habit, the beauty of the world would overwhelm us. We’d pass out every time we saw — actually saw — a flower. Imagine if we only got to see a cumulonimbus cloud or Cassiopeia or a snowfall once a century; there’d be pandemonium in the streets. People would lie by the thousands in the fields on their backs. We need habit to get through a day, to get to work, to feed our children. But habit is dangerous, too. The act of seeing can quickly become unconscious and automatic. The eye sees something — gray-brown bark, say, fissured into a broad, vertical plates — and the brain spits out tree trunk and the eye moves on. But did I really take the time to see the tree? I glimpse hazel hair, high cheekbones, a field of freckles, and I think Shauna. But did I take the time to see my wife? …The easier an experience, or the more entrenched, or the more familiar, the fainter our sensation of it becomes. This is true of chocolate and marriages and hometowns and narrative structures. Complexities wane, miracles becomes unremarkable, and if we’re not careful, pretty soon we’re gazing out at our lives as if through a burlap sack.”

–Anthony Doerr, Four Seasons in Rome (2008)

Original article can be found here: The easier an experience, the fainter our sensation of it becomes

Vagabonding Field Reports: Diving at the Great Barrier Reef

Vagablogging :: Rolf Potts Vagabonding Blog

Airlie Beach marina in late afternoon

Cost/day: $50

Excludes diving trip costs which vary considerably.

What’s the strangest thing you’ve seen lately?

It wasn’t what I was expecting when I signed up for a 2 night 3 day introductory diving trip to the Great Barrier Reef. The winds were gusting, the rains driving and half of our passengers had fled the boat out of either a sense of fear or general sea sickness. Still, those that remained and pushed on out to the outer reef were a hearty bunch.

Our boat soared like an eagle, rising up on the waves before plunging her bow deep into the waters, breaking all forward motion with a thunderous clap. At the bow were two young and brave girls that were riding this bucking bronco of a boat like Major Kong, screaming as the cold water splashed up, washing over them with each smash of the waves. Insane? Or just full of life. Whatever it was, the image of the two girls screaming with delight and bravado at mother nature is one I won’t soon forget.

Describe a typical day:

Pretty much every town along the east coast in Australia has some kind of public lagoon. They are usually the most beautiful public spots you could imagine. It’s really the quintessential Australian hangout. If I’m not at the lagoon then I’m playing in the surf. The east coast of Australia has some of the greatest beaches you will ever see in your life. Most hostels along the coast will rent you a board to play on or a bike to kick around for the day. In some spots there will be a national park nearby for a hike or a great place to relax and enjoy a picnic lunch.

Describe an interesting conversation you had with a local:

We stayed with the parents of a good friend from back home who happen to live in Noosa. While we were there, we took a trip to a nearby market which was full of fortune tellers. I had my fortune read as did Ria, our host, who does so regularly.

To my surprise, the fortune teller was able to accurately tell my recent story of life changes, travelling and general employment in the technology sector. I would normally have been closed minded about such things but travel has changed that. After all, why should I treat such an experience with a closed mind while I take in other travel moments openly?

We ended up discussing fortunes, how they never quite turn out exactly as told but also never miss the mark by much. It was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

What do you like about where you are? Dislike?

The beaches of Australia’s east coast are really incredible. To swim in them doesn’t cost a dime and you’ll meet every walk of life. Also, the Great Barrier Reef, and diving in general, is something I will never forget. The colours of the reef, the life, the silence of being under water. Incredible.

Australia also has a darker side which involves their history with the local native population. Problems like gambling and alcoholism affect all parts of Australia but seems to touch the native population in particular. Going further north, I have come across more and more of this side of Australia. It reminds me that while the country is prospering, there is still much that needs to be done to ensure that all parts of the country benefit and are treated properly.

Describe a challenge you faced:

The decision to go diving in Airlie Beach was not an obvious one. It had been raining pretty constantly since we got there. In the end, my wife and I decided to go for it. The resulting trip was filled with sea sickness, rough waters and driving rain. Getting through that trip took a strong stomach, trust in the professionalism of the crew and a general attitude of wearing a smile at all times, rain or shine.

What new lesson did you learn?

You can’t control everything. But you can control your attitude which is more important. How you enjoy something is entirely up to you. If it’s raining, you will get wet. That doesn’t mean you have to get down however. Attitude is everything.

Where next?

We are off to Italy.

Original article can be found here: Vagabonding Field Reports: Diving at the Great Barrier Reef