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National Portrait Gallery closing

London has no shortage of museums, but the loss of the National Portrait Gallery (home to the biggest collection of portraits in the world) for the next three years is still a downer for all the art lovers out there.

Starting on June 29, 2020 until spring 2023, the museum will be closed for extensive renovations, including a brand new entrance, new learning center, the reopening of the East Wing, and upgrades to the gallery space to display its collection in the best way possible.

The good news is that the museum’s 215,000 works won’t be totally sealed off to the public during the remodeling. Key portraits from the collection will travel around the UK and allow people all throughout the country to have access to these works. Some of the receiving institutions include:

The National Gallery, London
The National Maritime Museum, London
The Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh
The Herbert Art Gallery & Museum, Coventry
The York Art Gallery and the Yorkshire Museum, York
The Holburne Museum, Bath
National Museums Liverpool
The Laing Art Gallery, Newcastle
Wolverhampton Art Gallery
Derby Museum & Art Gallery
Aston Hall, Birmingham

And if you want to see beautiful portraits from the comfort of your own home, check out the National Portrait Gallery’s entire collection on its website.


More like this: The ultimate rainy day tour of London’s museums

The post London’s National Portrait Gallery is closing for three years appeared first on Matador Network.

Trieste is the coolest Italian city you’ve never thought of visiting

When you think of traveling to Italy you might think about Florence, Venice, or Rome. These destinations are beloved for good reason, but their popularity can also mean crowds and expense. If you’re willing to step beyond these famed cities, Italy has so much more to offer. If you opt to visit Trieste, it won’t just be quieter and more relaxing than Florence. Trieste offers its own unique vibe, given its easterly location, rich history, impressive architecture, and seaside allure. Here’s why you should consider stopping there on your next European vacation.

Trieste is closer to the Balkans than to Venice.

Photo: bellena/Shutterstock

Located on the narrow sliver of Italy that stretches between Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea, Trieste is closer to Slovenia and Croatia than to Venice, and is also very near Austria. Its far-flung location means it’s less expensive than many of Italy’s more touristy cities but it’s also behind Trieste’s unique history.

Trieste was a major seaport for the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of World War I, when it became a city-state for roughly 35 years before Italy took possession of it. However, it still bears many signs of Austrian influence, including the Castello di Miramare, a thriving Austrian quarter containing architecture that resembles Vienna’s and quality Austrian cuisine. You’ll find schnitzel here that’s every bit as good as what’s made further north, and can also sample traditional Austrian dishes that have been remade in the Italian image at spots like Trattoria Da Giovanni.

You can walk to easily accessible Roman ruins.

Photo: Leonid Andronov/Shutterstock

In Trieste, you can reach out and touch history; you don’t need to enter a museum to experience it. Brave the steps and steep paths up San Giusto Hill, and you won’t just experience the views of the city and the Adriatic Sea beyond. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit the San Giusto Castle and Cathedral, peek at the baptismal font next door — which dates back to the ninth century — and wander through a private garden littered with remnants of Roman art and architecture. Some of the old road signs and grave markers still bear legible lettering in Latin, and everything is available for you to reach out and touch.

Like many Italian cities, Trieste has grown around the scattered remains of ancient Roman ruins. The Teatro Romano, or Roman Theater, is an amphitheater that resembles Rome’s Colosseum, albeit smaller. Still, it occupies most of the city block across from the Trieste Police Academy, stretching uphill toward a row of modern-looking apartment buildings. You can’t enter the Teatro Romano the way you can enter the Colosseum, but you can stand close enough to admire the precision with which its steps were carved and to speculate about what use the massive cement block tables just inside the railing might have served.

The nearby Arco di Riccardo, or Richard’s Arch, is an old Roman gate built into the side of an apartment building in a quiet little piazza on the side of San Giusto Hill. You can stand beneath Richard’s Arch and press your hands to it. Revel in how mind-blowing it is that something built in the first century AD is still standing, and appreciate the freedom to admire it up close and uninterrupted. Both sites are easy to find and accessible on foot, which is the preferable way to move about the central part of town as the road system is comprised of one-way streets that sometimes end abruptly or wind around until they merge with another street — seemingly taking you farther from your destination than where you started. In fact, while it would require nearly an entire neighborhood loop around the Arco di Riccardo to drive there from the Teatro Romano, you can walk in less than five minutes.

You can admire and play in the Adriatic Sea.
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Photo: Ungor/Shutterstock

Many of Trieste’s foreign visitors arrive by cruise ship, but you can still appreciate its proximity to the Adriatic Sea without ever setting foot on a boat. One of the best places to do so is the Piazza Unita d’Italia, or Unity of Italy Square, which is thought to be the largest seaside square in Europe — according to the Triestiens, at least. The stately, ornate government buildings that surround it on three sides deserve a good 20 minutes of attention, but it’s the glimmering, blue water spreading out into the distance that will really draw you in. Walk to the end of one of the several nearby piers to feel the seabreeze on your face. Depending on which direction you stand, you’ll see either a spectacular view of the sea or of the city spreading up into the hillside.

The Adriatic can be frequently glimpsed between buildings and through trees from many points in town, but the Barcola area just north of town is where locals head for direct exposure to the ocean. This maritime neighborhood is a bit more removed from the city’s hustle and bustle. You can hang out on the cement beach area under the pine trees to swim, sunbathe, or just take a lovely, shaded seaside stroll.

The 19th-century Castello di Miramare is an archduke’s retreat turned historical site and park.

Photo: RossHelen/Shutterstock

Originally built for the Austrian Archduke Maximilian in the 19th century, the Castello di Miramare is located on a once-rocky promontory about 20 minutes outside Trieste by bus. Determined to turn the castle into his family’s summer retreat, the Archduke transformed the promontory into a series of beautiful gardens and fountains surrounding his gleaming white castle which faced out to sea. Maximilian was killed in Mexico before the Castello di Miramare could see much use. Unfortunate, but because he wasn’t around much the castle remains in pristine condition, filled with many of the same mid-19th century furniture, artwork, and books that once belonged to the Archduke. There’s a self-guided tour of the castle available that’s both informative and affordable, as well as plenty of parkland and gardens to explore.

Walking paths crisscross the entirety of the grounds, detouring past battlements on which the original 19th century canons sit, the smaller castle where the Archduke and Duchess lived while the Castello di Miramare was being built, and the rundown stone chapel that once had ties to a Capuchin Monastery. As you approach the castle, pause to cool off in the Japanese-style garden or stop to admire the flowers lining the steps that descend toward the sea. A sphinx statue that dates back to the second or third century BC, another piece of history you can personally interact with, stands guard near the end of one of the docks, which are also all open to visitors. Plus, the castle’s balconies offer up some of the best views of the Adriatic in or outside of Trieste and are accessible whether you pay for the tour or not.

You can go deep underground.

Photo: Leonid Andronov/Shutterstock

The Grotta Gigante is one of the world’s largest caves accessible to tourists. It’s only a half hour from Trieste by bus, followed by an easy 10-minute walk from the bus stop. First explored in 1840, the cave is 351 feet high, 213 feet wide, and 430 feet long, and so far underground that scientists working down there can accurately track seismic activity because there’s almost no seismic interference from the world above.

The cave costs 12 euros (about $13.30) per adult. A comprehensive, informative visitor’s center and regular tours offered in four different languages increase its accessibility, and the stairs that descend deep into the underground chasm are well-lit and well-maintained. The tour discusses how the cave formed (hint: plenty of both water and time) along with what sort of research is currently being done and what types of challenges scientists face in terms of protecting and preserving its unique ecosystem. But even if you’re not too interested in the science of speleology, the novelty of heading so far underground to take in the cave’s rock formations, stalactites, and stalagmites make it well worth a visit. One stalagmite is thought to be over 200,000 years old.

It’s tougher to get to, but that’s part of the charm.

Photo: Aleks Pank/Shutterstock

It’s admittedly harder to fly into Trieste than to other Italian cities, regardless of where you’re coming from. Fortunately, Trieste is only two hours from Venice by train, and multiple trains travel between the two places every day. Once onboard the train, relax and enjoy the obscenely photogenic Italian countryside and the increasingly frequent glimpses of the Adriatic as the train cruises through the hills.

Certain cruise ships also dock in Trieste, and many of those cruise ships even begin their voyages there. The volume of tourists they disgorge sounds intimidating if you’ve already found your way into the city, but unlike larger, more popular seaports like Venice, cruise ships only dock in Trieste one or two days per week.

Choose to visit one of the many sites outside the city on those days — even hiking in the nearby Slovenian forests — and by the time you return in the mid-afternoon, the crowds will have mostly dispersed and you can resume your wandering in the city’s tree-lined pedestrian paths, window shop in its beautiful piazzas, or sit down at a cafe in peace.


More like this: Forget Lake Como. Lake Orta is an affordable, unspoiled escape just outside Milan.

The post Trieste is the coolest Italian city you’ve never thought of visiting appeared first on Matador Network.

LGBTQ guide to Chicago

Unlike other parts of the Midwest, the Midwestern metropolis of Chicago, Illinois, has been a safe space for the LGBTQ community for nearly a century. In the 1920s, the Towertown neighborhood of the city became the first queer hub in the Midwest, boasting a number of LGBTQ nightlife staples in a country that still had yet to acknowledge the civil rights of queer people. Decades later, in 1961, Illinois became the first state in the US to repeal its sodomy law, paving way for the civil rights movement that unfolded in the decades that followed. Not only that but during the latter portion of the 20th century, it was through this persistent desire for LGBTQ equality that Chicago came to be known as one of the most accepting cities in the country.

Now, decades after the state of Illinois reversed its sodomy laws that discriminated against the community, its largest city has erected a number of queer institutions that promote the well-being of queer people. Though the queer-friendly neighborhood of Towertown no longer exists, it was quickly replaced by Boystown, a district of Chicago that proves to be incredibly welcoming with its wide array of queer owned and operated businesses. Outside of Boystown, many other local businesses cater specifically to the queer community, like Roscoe’s Tavern and iconic LGBTQ theater, Pride Arts Center. Even if visitors happen to venture to parts of the city that aren’t designated safe spaces for queer people, there is still an overwhelming feeling of comfort in the Windy City. So, to guide your Chicago travels, we’ve uncovered the best and brightest places to visit to get a true taste of the special culture that resides in this Midwestern queer capital.

The best LGBTQ neighborhood

Photo: D Guest Smith/Shutterstock

Boystown

Located in East Lakeview, the LGBTQ-inclusive neighborhood of Boystown is the oldest officially recognized gay community in the United States. If you’re only visiting Chicago for a few hours, Boystown can be a one-stop destination for queer-friendly businesses and events. Whether you’re visiting the only outdoor LGBTQ history museum in the world, the Legacy Walk, or you’re getting to know the locals in gay bar staples like the Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club, Boystown is an essential stop.

Art and museums

Photo: Pride Arts Center/Facebook

Pride Arts Center

If you’re looking to settle into a good film after a long day of sightseeing, look no further than the Pride Arts Center, where queer cinema is on display every day of the week. Located in the Buena Park neighborhood, the Pride Arts Center has been a mainstay in Chicago’s theater community, with plays, comedy, cabaret, and other performance art pieces made by queer people. If you’re thinking of producing your own queer play or performance art, the Pride Arts Center provides a safe space for aspiring and seasoned members of the LGBTQ theater community. Any member of the community with an artistic passion is free to rent a rehearsal or performance space in the center.

Photo: Leather Archives & Museum/Facebook

Leather Archives & Museum

For those tourists who crave a more nuanced view of Chicago, the Leather Archives & Museum delves into a hidden society of the city — the leather and kink communities. The museum has preserved the history of the leather, fetishism, sadomasochism, and alternative sexual communities of Chicago and beyond through archives, exhibits, and reading materials. Even if this sounds beyond your wheelhouse, every visitor can benefit from a visit to this museum that has worked diligently to preserve the history of the queer community.

The Legacy Walk

If you only have time to visit a few queer staples in Chicago, be sure to make at least one of them the Legacy Walk. Visitors to the outdoor museum enjoy a historical tour of the various LGBTQ monuments memorializing queer heroes and events that have helped shape the past, present, and future of LGBTQ life in Chicago. Aside from getting a taste of history, visitors will also have a chance to check out the surrounding friendly neighborhood of Boystown.

Bars and nightclubs

Photo: Kit Kat Lounge and Supper Club/Facebook

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club

With an impressive martini list and roster of iconic diva drag shows, the Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club is one of the best places to go for an entertaining cabaret or drag show. Aside from hosting one of the most iconic tableside theatrical performances in Chicago, it also has hosted a number of locally and nationally renowned drag queens, like Sunny Dee-Lite and Shantell D’Marco. Visitors to this Chicago staple can catch one of the many shows that take place at the venue every night of the week in 20-minute increments.

Hamburger Mary’s

As it turns out, the Chicago installation of the popular chain Hamburger Mary’s is just as popular in the Windy City as it is in other locations around the country. Located in Andersonville, another queer-friendly neighborhood in Chicago, Hamburger Mary’s is an incredibly popular nightlife institution within the LGBTQ community. On any night of the week, visitors to Hamburger’s Mary can expect to play a game of bingo, belt out a few tunes during an open mic session, enjoy a drag show, or watch a viewing of RuPaul’s Drag Race. No matter what night you come to Hamburger’s Mary, it’s safe to assume that you can expect a good time.

Photo: Roscoe’s Tavern/Facebook

Roscoe’s Tavern

After a long day of sightseeing, head to Roscoe’s Tavern, a long-standing gay bar in Boystown. If you’re seeking a raucous queer-friendly night, Roscoe’s Tavern delivers with its enduring mix of DJ-fueled dance parties, dueling pianos, karaoke nights, delicious food, and amateur drag shows. In other words: Every single thing a queer visitor desires in a night out on the town.

The Baton Show Lounge

For five decades, the Baton Show Lounge, located in the Uptown part of Chicago, has been a favorite among queer and heterosexual locals and tourists. At least in Chicago, the Baton Show Lounge is the holy grail of drag entertainment, featuring prestigious drag queens like Natasha Douglas, Shantell D’Marco, Angel Saez, Sheri Payne, and Demi Sexton. Not only that, but if you find yourself thoroughly enjoying a drag show at this venue, you’ll be in good company — the Baton Show Lounge’s previous clientele includes the likes of Joan Crawford, Joan Rivers, and Madonna.

Photo: Big Chicks/Facebook

Big Chicks

For those hoping to chat with locals, a trip to the lesbian-owned Big Chicks bar is a great first step. Even during the weekend rush, Big Chicks bar provides an intimate and friendly ambiance with its great food, signature cocktails, and a dance floor brimming with a wide representation of the community.

Shops

Photo: Women & Children First Bookstore/Facebook

Women & Children First

Before Portlandia shed light on the underground world of feminist bookstores, the Women & Children First bookstore in Andersonville hosted a number of rare books penned by females and the LGBTQ community. In total, the bookstore contains at least 30,000 books and, as the name suggests, the store also hosts a small collection of children’s books. Be sure to check its homepage for events.

Brown Elephant Resale Shop

With three locations across Chicago, the Brown Elephant Resale Shop is an important (and stylish) LGBTQ staple in the city. The boutique offers an array of vintage goods, from antique home goods to retro bell-bottoms. Even if vintage goods aren’t your speed, spending your hard-earned money at the Brown Elephant Resale Shop is a worthy endeavor, as all of the proceeds from the store benefit LGBTQ healthcare for the uninsured.

Spas, saunas, and beaches

Photo: James Andrews1/Shutterstock

Kathy Osterman Beach

Though it isn’t a designated safe space for the queer community, Kathy Osterman Beach is the most queer-friendly beach in the Midwest. Aside from being a beautiful LGBTQ-friendly beach, the area offers visitors and locals a chance to dive into nearby idyllic lakes, bars, and games of beach volleyball.

SIR Spa

While not a designated safe space for queer individuals, SIR Spa is an LGBTQ-friendly spa in Andersonville. Though its services are available to men, women, and couples, the spa is known for its services specifically intended for men. Visitors to SIR Spa can expect a wide array of available services, from waxing to facials to body treatments. And for those wishing to be truly pampered during their trip to Chicago, the spa offers all-day spa packages that prove to be a very romantic date option in the heart of the city.

Steamworks Baths

For those gay men who are on the prowl for their next partner, Steamworks Baths is the perfect destination for the single and ready to mingle. The popular bathhouse features a gym, sauna, bathhouse, and private rooms for VIP members. Daily entrance to the bathhouse is incredibly affordable at only $8 for non-VIP clients. On certain occasions, the bathhouse festivities are made even sweeter with in-house DJs and themed parties.

Hotels

Photo: Hotel Zachary/Facebook

Hotel Zachary

Within walking distance of Boystown is Hotel Zachary, a charming and modern space that is popular among LGBTQ travelers. The boutique hotel, inspired by famed architect and local legend Zachary Taylor Davis, rests in the center of the iconic Lakeview neighborhood, offering stunning views of the city. Hotel Zachary is the perfect option for those who enjoy being in the center of the action, as it is surrounded by a number of restaurants, bars, and shops.

Wrigley Hostel

For those venturing to Chicago on a budget, the Wrigley Hostel is worth every precious penny. This queer-friendly establishment is by Wrigley Field, and allows visitors to become better acquainted with other travelers and locals who traverse the restaurants, bars, and shops located within walking distance of the hostel. Aside from offering no-frills budget quarters, the Wrigley Hostel boasts daily free meals and a recreation area where guests can play pool and darts.


More like this: The ultimate guide to Chicago, Illinois

The post The ultimate LGBTQ guide to Chicago appeared first on Matador Network.

How to see Canada's Yukon territory

On a remote stretch of water just outside Whitehorse, the isolated capital of Canada’s Yukon territory, you gather onto a dock to load gear into a floatplane. Around you, each face in your group flashes a look containing both eager excitement and anxious nervousness as they await the call to board the plane and transport to the starting point for a unique opportunity to paddle one of North America’s longest rivers: the Yukon. In addition to supporting the plane, the hollow floats also contain much of the gear you’ll use over the next few days. Once loaded, the pilot taxis away from the shore, and almost immediately, the plane is dancing across the water and building speed. Just like that, you’re airborne and beginning the short flight across Lake Laberge.

Near the mouth of the lake, the plane takes an exhilarating dive, and the pilot gracefully lands the plane on the river. The plane glides across the water’s surface and comes to rest gently on the rocky shoreline. After unloading, the pilot pushes away from shore and is once again airborne; within a few seconds, he’s gone. Now it’s just you, your group, and your guide for the next four days with the tall task of descending nearly 140 miles down the Yukon River on stand-up paddleboards, or SUPs as they’re commonly called. Once the SUPs are inflated and the dry bags, food barrels, and any remaining hesitations are strapped to the boards, you climb aboard and begin the journey. SUPing the Yukon River is an unforgettable experience and one of the most unique ways to experience the striking vastness of Canada’s north. Here’s how to make it happen.

What makes the Yukon River so unique?

Photo: Pecold/Shutterstock

The Yukon River is the third-longest river in North America. Its wild course begins in northern British Columbia and flows northwest through the Yukon and into Alaska before emptying into the Bering Sea over 2,000 miles later. This means that you’re actually traveling north-ish during the trip, pushing further from urbanity with every stroke of the paddle. In the late 19th century, gold was discovered, and fortune seekers flocked to the territory, kicking off what was dubbed the Klondike Gold Rush. While the quest to find the shiny metal would dwindle, the river would remain the highway of the region for more than 50 years. Paddle-wheel riverboats that once traveled the waterway have been replaced with canoes, kayaks, and, in recent years, even stand-up paddleboards. This vital waterway has a history far deeper than modern Canada.

Why travel by inflatable SUP?

Photo: Stand Up Paddle Yukon/Facebook

Unlike kayaks, which confine you to a cockpit and have limited cargo space, SUPs have large decks that allow for more gear, and paddlers have the ability to move around while on the water. Over the course of a four-day trip, this extra bit of mobility will prove immensely valuable as you can stretch your legs, move from standing into a kneeling position as needed, and because you’re standing can look around you with much greater ease. Paddleboards are remarkably stable and allow you to stand, kneel, or sit as you go over more turbulent patches of water. Stand Up Paddle Yukon is Whitehorse’s only SUP guided service and will escort you on the trip on a board from Red Paddle Co. and take care of the logistics that are impossible to plan from your living room thousands of miles away.

SUPs are ideal for exploring long stretches of relatively calm water because they are much easier to navigate than other boats, with the added bonus that you can easily change directions, turn around, or even bail off the board should the need arise. They come in an array of sizes. The tandem, just as its name implies, allows two paddlers to ride on the same board with gear strapped in two separate locations. It’s kind of like a tandem bike, kayak, or another piece of tandem athletic equipment except that, again, you still have the mobility. The solo boards used on the trip can carry one paddler with gear and are encouraged for more experienced riders.

Here’s the real beauty of the boards, though. When not in use, they deflate and can be rolled up and stashed in a bag that can even be checked for flights to your favorite paddling destinations. This will prove extremely important for the trip as the rolled-up boards are easily placed inside the plane and the hollow floats for the flight to the starting point of the trip. Huckleberry Finn, Mark Twain’s classic character, would have gladly traded in his raft for the opportunity to travel on a SUP.

How to plan for this adventure — when to go, what to bring, and how to organize

Photo: Salvatore Chiariello/Shutterstock

The Yukon is located in the subarctic and thus has long, cold winters and brief, dramatic summers. Tours run from June to September, and each month can provide a unique and varying experience. Nighttime temperatures range from cool to cold though July and August — the middle of summer — are the warmest. Wildlife abounds in this northern ecosystem with the possibility of bear, moose, porcupine, and wolf sightings, as well as a multitude of bald eagles that patrol the waterway. Watch closely as you may get to experience them pluck their next meal from the river as you paddle in relative proximity to the action.

Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon, sits just north of British Columbia — just under two hours from the border. This once-bustling mining town will be the start of your river quest. While a few airlines provide service to the Great White North, Air North is the Yukon’s official airline and provides daily service from multiple cities, including Vancouver and Calgary. After inflating and loading the SUPs, your adventure downriver begins, and you are going to be off-the-grid for the remainder of the trip. The river moves pretty quickly on its own, and it’s possible to make forward progress just keeping the nose of the board pointing downriver. But, of course, you’ll paddle. And paddle more. Your itinerary will likely look much like this:

Day 1

Photo: Stand Up Paddle Yukon/Facebook

After casting off and beginning your trip down the river, constantly scan the riverbanks for signs of wildlife. It won’t be long before you see your first bald eagle standing vigilantly in a tree. Lunches on the river can involve going ashore or connecting the boards together for a flotilla-style meal as you continue making progress downriver. Be conscious of the fact that you are surrounded by First Nations’ land.

Near the end of the first day on the river, your guide will motion you to head ashore to visit what remains of the river town of Hootalinqua. Here you’ll see evidence of the pioneer lifestyle in the old homesteads and buildings that remain from a bygone era. Don’t get too comfortable just yet as this is not your campsite for the night. After checking out the town, you will climb back aboard for another short jaunt down the river to the former site of the Hootalinqua Shipyard. Here you’ll camp in the shadow of the S.S. Evelyn, a sternwheeler that once carried passengers and goods between the towns along the Yukon. Her glory days have since passed, and more than a century of being dry-docked and abandoned to the elements have taken their toll on her. You’ll set up your tent and prepare for your first night in the wilderness while your guide begins the task of preparing the gourmet meal that traveling by water allows. After a solid day on the river, it’s easy to doze off comfortably in your tent as the ghost ship stands like a sentinel over your camp.

Day 2

Unlike backpacking trips that often require breaking camp early to cover the mileage to your next camp, river trips can be more flexible in allowing a casual start to the day. You’ll begin the second day on the water with a fully cooked breakfast and time around the campfire to reflect on the history of this campsite and the hundreds of people that once worked in the very spot you’re camping at over 100 years ago. After a leisurely start to the day, you’ll be back on the water, the current assisting your efforts down the river. Over the years, forest fires have ravaged sections along the riverbank, and the charred past remains evident as you pass through the affected areas. Since the growing season is short, new growth is slow to emerge, and the skeletal remains of the trees remain blackened and upright as a reminder of a heated past.

Though largely still intact, the S.S. Evelyn isn’t the only visible remains of the once-mighty sternwheelers that navigated these treacherous waters. The hulking remains of another boat become evident as you approach a sandbar in the middle of the river. Guide your SUP ashore and walk over to explore what remains of the main deck that sits exposed while the hull remains largely buried in the river sediment. While perhaps the longest day on the river, it ends similarly to the first day in that you camp along the shore of the river and drift off as the river continues to flow past, creating a natural white noise.

Day 3

Photo: Pi-Lens/Shutterstock

This will be your last full day on the river, and your guide is likely to pull out all of the stops (much to your surprise). You continue to paddle, alternating between sitting and standing, as you meander your way down the river perpetually glancing at the shoreline and the hillsides hoping to spot more of the indigenous wildlife. At one point, your guide will motion the group over to the left-hand side of the river, and though it appears someone has already claimed this campsite, this is actually your camp for the night, and you’ll have to keep from letting out a hoot of joy when you see the collapsible hot tubs erected along the river.

Propane tanks will have the water warm while a myriad of drinks chill in the cold water of the river. There is no need to wait while the makeshift kitchen is set up and dinner is prepared as another guide has come downriver in a small boat equipped with a dinner prepared ahead of time and ready to be served. You quickly eat with the anticipation of what lies ahead. After shedding your apparel in favor of your swimsuit, walk across the sandy beach area and immerse yourself in one of several hot tubs. As the sun begins to drop behind the mountaintops and the stars begin to appear in the clear Canadian sky, it’s hard not to wonder if the day could be any more perfect, though depending on the patterns of the northern lights, it might.

Day 4

As you climb aboard your SUP for the last time, there still remain many miles between you and the takeout at a public campground in the town of Carmacks. Once you climb the riverbank, you deflate the SUPs and load the gear into the van to begin the drive back to Whitehorse. And while the trip may be over, there’s still plenty to discuss on the road back.

And if four days on the river isn’t quite enough, you can opt for a longer trip and travel all the way to Dawson City. This option will take an additional few days and will require a resupply along the river.

What to wear

The month you set out will likely determine the apparel needed. At minimum, consider choosing a water shoe like the Chaco Torrent Pro paired with a neoprene sock or just opt for a neoprene boot. The wind on the river is cool, and it’s advantageous to wear a light jacket or keep one handy while on the river. All gear and apparel are stored in dry bags to ensure a warm set of clothes once off of the river and for strolling around camp at the end of the day.


More like this: For real adventure in British Columbia, head to the north

The post Why a stand-up paddleboard is the best way to see Canada’s Yukon territory appeared first on Matador Network.

Get a free e-visa to visit Russia

Russia has a reputation as being one of the more difficult countries to visit due to tough visa requirements, but it’s about to get much easier — for some countries, anyway. Citizens of 53 countries will now be able to visit St. Petersburg and the surrounding region (Leningrad Oblast) with a free electronic visa. The nationals of the same countries can also obtain an e-visa for Kaliningrad.

According to the Russian government, it only takes four calendar days to process the application and once approved, you have 30 days to use your e-visa. The e-visa is only valid for eight days.

But eight days is plenty to visit the amazing palaces of St. Petersburg, tour some of the most beautiful churches in the world, and check out the beaches along the Gulf of Finland.

The nationals of the following 53 countries can obtain the new e-visa:

Austria
Andorra
Bahrain
Belgium
Bulgaria
China (including Taiwan)
Croatia
Cyprus
Czech Republic
North Korea
Denmark
Estonia
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Hungary
Iceland
India
Indonesia
Iran
Ireland
Italy
Japan
Kuwait
Latvia
Lithuania
Liechtenstein
Luxembourg
Malaysia
Malta
Mexico
Monaco
The Netherlands
North Macedonia
Norway
Oman
Philippines
Poland
Portugal
Qatar
Romania
San Marino
Saudi Arabia
Serbia
Singapore
Slovakia
Slovenia
Spain
Turkey
Sweden
Switzerland
Vatican

To obtain an e-visa, you must submit your application on the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs website no later than four days before your trip.


More like this: 10 gorgeous palaces in St. Petersburg

The post Russia’s new free e-visa will make traveling to St. Petersburg easier than ever appeared first on Matador Network.

Tonga volcanic eruption sinks

Volcanic eruptions are dramatic events, even when they take place underwater. According to a report by geologists, an undersea volcanic eruption in the Tongan archipelago has sunk an entire island. Not only that, but it has even created a whole new one that’s three times as big.

Since mid-Oct we’ve been tracking the #Lateiki (#Metis Shoal) #eruption with satellite imagery. By Nov 1 an elongated island has appeared at the main focus of activity. In the right most image we have combined the 1st and last images showing the 1995 dome appears to have gone. pic.twitter.com/tSukPm6car

— GeoNet (@geonet) November 4, 2019

The new island is an estimated 328 feet wide and 1,312 feet long, and it’s located between the islands of Kao and Late in Tonga’s Ha’apai group of islands. The eruption came from the Hunga Tonga-Hunga Ha’apai volcano, and started mid-October. By November 1, geologists noted the new elongated landmass and the disappearance of the island, which was itself created by a volcanic eruption in 1995.

Photo: Google Maps

Tonga is no stranger to volcanic eruptions. The Polynesian kingdom sits on the Ring of Fire, an area of volatile seismic activity in the Pacific that’s responsible for the vast majority of the world’s earthquakes.


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Where to see prehistoric art

Whether it’s an animal, a hunter, a plant, or a handprint, there’s something magical about coming face-to-face with humanity’s earliest art. Cave paintings (called “pictographs”) and carvings (or “petroglyphs”) can appear primitive-looking, but these ancient markings point to the advent of human creativity, when we started expressing our ideas through images. The art is often situated in caves or other shielded locations, so it tends to remain well-preserved, protected from damaging sunlight and weather. Here are seven places around the world where you can get your eyes on ancient art crafted by our prehistoric ancestors.

1. Cantabria, Spain

Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock

The autonomous region of Cantabria in northern Spain is home to fascinating Ice Age caves chock-full of ancient art. Probably the most famous is Altamira, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Every week, the Museum of Altamira chooses only five visitors who can don a biohazard suit and enter the cave for a 37-minute guided tour. In the cave, they’ll see faint outlines of Paleolithic paintings of animals, most notably the famous polychrome bison, as well as the ochre-colored human hands that introduce nearly every art history book. The paintings are up to 37,000 years old. We’re unsure who painted them but one thing is clear: It’s easier to see the designs, colors, and placements in the fabulous cave replica in the adjacent museum.

2. Drakensberg Mountains, South Africa

Photo: EcoPrint/Shutterstock

Game Pass shelter is located in the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains on the the Kamberg Nature Reserve. The shelter features panels known as the “Rosetta Stone” of South African rock art because it helped researchers crack the code of local rock art symbols and San religious metaphors. The elaborate, orange, black, red, and white designs were made by artisans from the San (known as “Bushmen”) culture, 150 to 2,500 years ago. Many of the 40,000-plus images are combined animal and human shapes. Others show shamen crouched in a dying position and hunters wrapped in skin cloaks chasing eland antelopes. You can take a three-hour, moderately difficult guided walk from the Kamberg Rock Art Center, or watch a 20-minute documentary there if you’re short on time.

3. Northern Territory, Australia

Photo: pierdest/Shutterstock

Continuously inhabited for 50,000 years, Kakadu National Park in Australia’s Northern Territory is home to several extraordinary rock art sites. The most famous of those are Ubirr and Nourlangie (Burrungkuy), located in the northeast of the park, where ancient galleries illustrate the spiritual beliefs of the Bininj people, their ways of life as hunters and gatherers, and the wildlife that existed around them (some of which, like the Tasmanian tiger, are now extinct). The main site in Nourlangie (Burrungkuy), the Anbangbang Gallery, has creation stories about Namarrgon, the sacred Lightening Man. Another particularly interesting aspect of the site is that nearby flat rocks feature grounded-out pots that hold remnants of the ochre used to paint the art. The rock art sites, or gunbim, as they are called by the Aboriginal people of the region, can be visited thanks to ranger- and Bininj-led tours.

4. Patagonia, Argentina

Photo: buteo/Shutterstock

Cueva de los Manos, or Cave of the Hands, is a UNESCO World Heritage site in the Santa Cruz Province of Argentine Patagonia. The amazing rock art site gets its name from the hundreds of stenciled human hands (most of which are left hands) painted in the cave, but the caves’ walls also bear depictions of hunting scenes, local animals, human figures, and abstract designs. The famous pictographs of Cueva de los Manos date back between 9,500 and 13,000 years ago. Tours of the cave are available from Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos.

5. Dordogne, France

Photo: thipjang/Shutterstock

From the Rouffignac cave, also known as the “Cave of a Hundred Mammoths,” to the much more famous Lascaux caves, the Dordogne region of southwestern France is dotted with 25 UNESCO-protected ancient art caves. Near the town of Montignac, the Lascaux caves complex is an easy site to visit. You can no longer enter the most famous cave as scientists closed it in 1963 because simply breathing on the paintings can damage them. So, teams of researchers and facsimile experts crafted the adjacent interactive replica Lascaux IV, or “The Lascaux Experience.” There, you can virtually see the famous “Hall of Bulls,” “Upside Down Horse,” and all of the cave’s major highlights that exist right down the road.

6. New Mexico, United States

Photo: turtix/Shutterstock

There is no shortage of places to view well-preserved petroglyphs in the southwestern region of the United States. One example is Petroglyph National Monument outside Albuquerque, New Mexico. Its four major sites showcase almost 25,000 petroglyph images, including animals, people, and geometric symbols that the ancient Puebloans pecked through the desert patina of volcanic rocks. Granted, these designs are not as old as some other sites, dating back to 1300, but many of the designs from the late-1600s depict the Puebloans’ interactions with the area’s original Spanish settlers.

7. Southwestern Libya

Photo: Patrick Poendl/Shutterstock

The southwest of Libya is a hotbed of rock art. First, there’s the UNESCO World Heritage site of Tadrart Acacus, where there are thousands of cave paintings, dating from 12,000 BC to 100 AD. Then, about 62 miles east of the magnificent Acacus Mountains, are the remains of an ancient crater with walls that bear some of Africa’s most intricate ancient rock art engraving examples. The art in the Murzuq crater is believed to be 10,000 years old and depict fascinating life-sized animals. Some of these animals are still around, like elephants, rhinos, and giraffes, but others, like the prehistoric bubalus horned buffalo, went extinct more than 5,000 years ago.


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Amtrak Thanksgiving flash sale

Thanksgiving can be one of the most expensive times of the year to travel, but it doesn’t have to be that way. If you don’t mind moving your holiday travel plans up a bit, you can take advantage of Amtrak’s new flash sale for travel between November 11 and 24, with 60 percent off all fares each way on 15 long-distance routes. If you play your cards right, you can score fares as low as $29 each way.

Some of our favorite fares include:

Washington, DC to Cleveland, Capitol Limited ($29)
Seattle to Sacramento, Coast Starlight ($39)
Chicago to New Orleans, City of New Orleans ($49)
New York City to Miami, Silver Service ($59)

The sale only lasts from November 5 to 7, however, so you’ll have to be quick on the trigger booking those cheap fares.


More like this: 7 things to know before riding Amtrak across the country

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Best dark-sky destinations in the US

To admire the stars, all you need is a pitch-black sky. Finding one, though, is easier said than done. One drive out to the middle of a seemingly remote field at midnight, anticipating a view of the Milky Way, is enough to show you how wide-ranging and disruptive light pollution can be. Fortunately, there are plenty of places where you can find those clear, dark skies.

While many national parks offer excellent stargazing, the US is also full of small communities, state parks, and other locations that are widely recognized as dark-sky locations — some even holding regular dark-sky celebrations. If you’re serious about seeing the stars, getting to these dark-sky destinations far from big cities is worth the effort.

1. Flagstaff, Arizona

Photo: Will Alpert/Shutterstock

Of all the towns in the US considered “dark-sky communities,” Flagstaff was the first to receive the designation back in 2001. Other cities may have recently introduced lighting rules designed to limit light pollution, but Flagstaff enacted the world’s first outdoor lighting ordinance in 1958. Because of these light pollution restrictions, visitors to Flagstaff can see stars right in town without having to venture to a faraway park. Flagstaff is also home to the Lowell Observatory and the US Naval Observatory Flagstaff Station. In case you still have doubts that stargazing is part of Flagstaff’s identity, the city even has its own brewery called the Dark Sky Brewing Company.

In addition to the Lowell Observatory, some of the best spots for stargazing in and around the city include Heritage Square, Buffalo Park, Anderson Mesa, and Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. The city itself might be better than most for stargazing, but Flagstaff is surrounded by canyons, deserts, forests, and mountains that may provide a more serene dark-sky experience.

2. Torrey, Utah

Photo: Lijuan Guo/Shutterstock

When we think of “dark-sky destinations,” we tend to think of sprawling parks with miles of open space, removed from any hub of civilization. In Utah, however, you can visit a dark-sky community, with a population of 300 people. The town of Torrey started a fundraiser to fund retrofitted public exterior lights that direct light away from the sky. Money was also set aside to help residents pay for upgrading their home fixtures.

So, sure, you could stand in the middle of town and get a decent view of the sky. But the best thing about Utah is exploring nature and getting familiar with its unique red rock formations. Since Torrey is the gateway to Capitol Reef National Park, doing that is pretty easy. Partnering with the Estrada Institute, the park hosts an annual Heritage Starfest every fall, where telescopes are set up and experts are brought in to speak about stargazing. If you miss Heritage Starfest, park rangers host weekly astronomy events that mix naked-eye and telescope viewing.

3. Cherry Springs State Park, Pennsylvania

Photo: Michael Yatsko/Shutterstock

Twenty minutes from the small town of Coudersport, Cherry Springs State Park is one of the premier dark-sky destinations in the US. Named a “Gold Level Dark Sky Park” by the International Dark Sky Association (yes, there’s an International Dark Sky Association), Cherry Springs offers ideal stargazing conditions between 60 and 85 nights a year. Visitors to the park have reported seeing a range of celestial phenomena, including asteroids, meteor showers, the Milky Way, the Andromeda Galaxy, and even the northern lights. The stargazing field at Cherry Springs is open year-round, but the best time to visit is during the fall and winter, due to reduced humidity and longer nighttime hours.

Cherry Springs also holds a Star Party twice a year, drawing hundreds of professional and amateur astronomers. The party culminates in a public viewing event with high-powered telescopes and astronomy talks from experts. The Cherry Springs Star Party takes place in June and the Black Forest Star Party happens in September.

4. Staunton River State Park, Virginia

Photo: Staunton River State Park/Facebook

Staunton River State Park endeared itself to stargazers by taking measures to reduce its own light pollution. This includes replacing exterior light fixtures in rental cabins, residences, and parking lots with approved dark-sky fixtures. The park has also developed a concrete plan for its future, to ensure that any park expansion doesn’t detract from people’s ability to see a clear night sky. A designated nine-acre “Dark Sky Observation Area” is set aside especially for stargazers, and is popular among both casual visitors and professional astronomers.

Like Cherry Springs, Staunton River also hosts star parties with the aim of bringing stargazers together from all over the country to share in an unforgettable celestial experience. Speakers at the Fall Star Party on October 21 included Apollo 11.5 mission commander Jeff Martin, Royal Astronomical Society fellow Jonathan Ward, and novelist Michael Neece.

5. Headlands International Dark Sky Park, Michigan

Photo: Steven Russell Smith Ohio/Facebook

Headlands is a paradise for dark-sky seekers. It has 550 acres of woodlands and two miles of undeveloped shoreline along Lake Michigan, so you can come back to this park dozens of times and still find new, cozy spots to camp and watch the night sky. The park also benefits from a county-wide light ordinance, which places limits on artificial lights. And given the park’s northerly latitude — it’s one of the most northern points in the US — you may even glimpse the northern lights if you’re lucky.

If you don’t exactly feel like roughing it, you can stay in a designated Guest House popular among stargazers. While you’re there, you can also check out the Waterfront Event Center and Observatory, to get you in the mood for that all-night northern lights stakeout. Try to visit when the park is hosting one of its signature dark-sky events, including starry lake cruises, star parties, astrophotography nights, and nighttime storytelling.

Headlands International Dark Sky Park is located two miles west of Mackinaw City. Entrance to the park is free, though fees may be charged for special viewing events like the northern lights or meteor showers.


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Worst airports for Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is one of the busiest times of the year when it comes to travel, and unfortunately, it’s usually not all smooth sailing. Between delays, cancellations, and airport traffic, your holiday can go downhill in a hurry. You won’t always be able to avoid the most aggravating pitfalls of Thanksgiving travel, but you can do your best to minimize your frustrations. AirHelp, a passenger rights organization, conducted a study that looked at data from Thanksgiving 2018 to help travelers know what to expect this year.

When figuring out your travel plans, it can help to know which airports are known for their efficiency and which are best avoided due to frequent delays. According to data collected between November 21 and November 25, 2018, these are the airports AirHelp determined are the worst in the US for disruptions during Thanksgiving:

Chicago O’Hare International Airport (ORD): 1,130 flights
Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL): 960 flights
San Francisco International Airport (SFO): 870 flights
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX): 650 flights
Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR): 610 flights
Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport (DFW): 600 flights
Logan International Airport (BOS): 550 flights
Denver International Airport (DEN): 530 flights
Charlotte Douglas International Airport (CLT): 490 flights
John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK): 480 flights

According to AirHelp, these were the most disrupted routes in the country last Thanksgiving. If you’re considering flying one of these routes, and you’re on a tight schedule, it might be worth exploring some alternatives:

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to San Francisco International Airport (SFO)
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) to San Francisco International Airport (SFO)
LaGuardia Airport (LGA) to Chicago O’Hare International Airport (ORD)
San Diego International Airport (SAN) to San Francisco International Airport (SFO)
McCarran International Airport (LAS) to San Francisco International Airport (SFO)
Orlando International Airport (MCO) to Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL)
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) to Logan International Airport (BOS)
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) to Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR)
Orlando International Airport (MCO) to Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR)
John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK) to Heathrow Airport (LHR)

Keep in mind that the busiest travel day tends to be the Sunday after Thanksgiving (which is December 1 this year), and the best time of day for avoiding flight disruptions is between 6:00 AM and 11:59 AM.


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