Matador Network's Blog, page 964
December 4, 2019
Visiting Celestial Seasonings HQ

My tour group is huddled around a yellow column in the Celestial Seasonings headquarters. We’re staring, mesmerized, at a painting hanging in front of us as our guide murmurs quietly behind us. This, she tells us with a hint of pride in her voice, is the original illustration of the iconic Sleepy Time bear, the unofficial Celestial Seasonings mascot that adorns its best-selling chamomile tea. We gasp. Nearly all of us have memories of seeing the Sleepy Time bear in the family cupboard.
My own memories are vivid. I regularly joined my godmother for lunch as a kid. A dedicated tea drinker, she always had a plate of cookies and a pot of hot water on the table when my mother and I arrived. I’d rummage through her cabinets, catching a whiff of Sugar Plum Spice (which at the time had ballet dancers on the box) and peppermint. But my favorites were always Lemon and Raspberry Zinger — the tart, citrusy flavor and the giant, juicy fruits floating on the boxes always made my mouth water.
Americans obsessed with work and productivity aren’t tea drinkers by nature — they need coffee to fuel their endless ambition. Yet Celestial Seasonings managed to tap into what we can embrace about tea: stability, peace, quiet, and family, even if only for a fleeting moment at the end of the day. After 50 years in business, Celestial Seasonings teas occupy a revered place alongside coffee in the cabinets of Americans from every background.
Celestial Seasonings’ branding has always suggested the presence of magic and fairytale lands where friendly animals come to life and giant lemons float through the sky like clouds. The same can be felt at the company’s headquarters in Boulder, which is open for tours. There is a kind of magic present at Celestial Seasonings — but it mostly has to do with nostalgia.
Before there was Sleepy Time, there were foraged herbs

Photo: DetskymodelingDotCz/Shutterstock
In 1969, Mo Siegel was a teenager living in Aspen, Colorado, and would often hang out at the local health food store. He spent his days hiking in the mountains and took an interest in the local plant life, including the fresh, fragrant herbs he crushed underfoot on his daily treks. It dawned on Siegel that he could make tea with the wild herbs growing in the mountains, so he began picking bunches, creating different combinations, and giving away the resulting blends.
Later that year, Siegel decided to relocate to Boulder, where his life carried on much the same way: He took hikes in the mountains and picked the herbs that he found along the way — rose hip, red clover blossoms, raspberry leaves. Except this time, Siegel decided that he wanted to sell his signature blends. He already knew where to get his herbs. The challenge would be to make his business official.
“When we first started doing this, herbal tea was very fringe,” explains Tim Collins, vice president of marketing at Celestial Seasonings. “In fact, we had to create and name the category ‘herbal tea’ in this country. Elsewhere in Europe, they had similar offerings called tissanes or infusions, but nobody in America knew what that meant at the time.”
Still, Siegel couldn’t be deterred from his dream. He knew a girl in Boulder named Lucinda — but all the men in town knew her as Celestial Seasonings. She was so beautiful, she was seasoned by heaven, they all said. Siegel had his company name. Next, he started thinking about how to package his product.
Seigel stamped muslin bags with circular hand-drawn designs — a red lightning bolt or a blue palm tree — and filled them with his hand-picked blends. In 1969, at the age of 19, Siegel officially founded the Celestial Seasonings tea company.
Once the company was on its feet, Siegel became eager to expand his repertoire of herbs. In 1972, he traveled to Mexico. In Sonora, he headed to a market selling herbs and dried plants. It was here that Siegel discovered tilia leaves, which have a calming, very mild sedative effect. He figured the woody, sweet cherry flavor would pair well with chamomile.
Siegel took the herb back to Boulder and embarked on a series of taste tests. Eventually, he landed on a combination of tilia leaves, chamomile, lavender, lemongrass, and orange blossoms. It was the perfect blend of herbs to lull tea drinkers into a peaceful snooze. The result of his experimentation is the now classic Sleepy Time tea.

Photo: Elisabeth Sherman
John Hay, one of the company’s co-founders, recruited his artist sister, Beth Underwood, to come up with a drawing to accompany the blend. She painted the Sleepy Time bear and his family in their cottage, thus shaping the way countless Americans viewed their bedtime tea.
Eventually, the muslin bags gave way to sturdier cardboard boxes, and accompanying illustrations became more complex, too: a bear in a life preserver paddling down a river in a container of blueberries, a wizard casting spells with his unicorn companion by his side, a princess clad in a red gown astride her tamed dragon. The characters on the company’s packaging have since become mascots for reluctant tea-drinking Americans.
Celestial Seasonings’ aesthetic is now famously psychedelic and whimsical. Genial animals and fruit rendered in vibrant colors splash across the labels, creating a fantastical universe imbued with magic, adventure, and benevolent animal companions. This is the place your daydreams take you while sipping a hot cup of tea.
Creating a market for tea in a non-tea-drinking nation

Photo: Celestial Seasonings
According to Collins, the market for herbal tea was “very small, fragmented” in the early ‘70s. One agricultural report published in 1971 found that Americans consumed just .75 pounds of tea every year, compared to the British, who drank around 8.5 pounds. The report goes on to say that while instant tea had been “virtually ignored for the past 20 years,” it began to gain popularity in 1970, the year after Siegel founded Celestial Seasonings. Yet until the 1980s, Americans remained intensely skeptical of herbal tea.
“The biggest challenge in the early stages was getting retailers to take a chance on a band of hippie founders from Colorado, peddling a radical new beverage that nobody had really heard of,” Collins says.
The company’s big break came in 1974, when actress Susan St. James appeared on The Tonight Show, which John Denver was guest hosting that night. She brought a pitcher of Celestial Seasonings’ Red Zinger tea with her to share with Denver. He took a taste and declared, “Red Zinger tea, far out!” Denver gave Celestial Seasonings a much-needed dose of good PR. With very little competition on the market, the tea company’s popularity boomed.
“In the ‘70s and ‘80s, Lipton dominated the tea category in America, and until their entry into herbal tea, we enjoyed nearly a 100 percent share of a much smaller herbal tea category,” Collins explains. “Celestial became the breakout and leading herbal tea brand very quickly.”

Photo: Celestial Seasonings
Collins insists that Celestial Seasonings maintained its success by focusing on tea that actually tastes good — the focus, hopefully, of every food and beverage company. Yet Siegel seemed to tap into something more appealing to Americans than taste. He saw that Americans wanted to feel comforted after a hectic day of work and raising a family, so he gave them the inverse of coffee — an antidote to the culture of overwork, exhaustion, and burnout that pervades American society.
It was an idea entirely separate from the British concept of tea. Focusing on blends inspired by plants Siegel originally foraged himself turned out to be a stroke of genius. The majority of Celestial Seasonings products, including Sleepy Time, are actually “herbal infusions” (and must be legally labeled as such) because they don’t contain any of the plant camellia sinensis, which makes teas like black and green tea. Americans responded to plant-based herbal teas that made no attempt to replace their precious caffeinated coffee.
What it’s like to visit the American classic today

Photo: Celestial Seasonings
The moment the tour begins, the scent of cinnamon invades your senses — earthy, spicy, and warm. Our tour guide, Evan, first led us through the section of the factory where the herbs (chamomile, hibiscus, lemongrass, and lavender) are stored in rooms separate from camellia sinensis — the black, green, and white tea leaves.
From there, we visited the mint rooms, which are closed-off spaces where peppermint and spearmint leaves are stored. The fragrance in these rooms is so pungent it makes your eyes water and your sinuses tingle; the subtle taste of alcohol, a little oily, might even linger on your tongue.

Photo: Elisabeth Sherman/Celestial Seasonings
Though the mint rooms are legendary, the factory floor is where the tour really peaks. Watching the endless conveyor belt of finished and wrapped boxes has a hypnotic effect. Glimpsing the Sleepy Time production line didn’t feel like the breaking of a spell. It was more like the big reveal at the end of the movie, when you find out the identity of the killer. It’s satisfying and clarifying, an answer to a long-held question.
Celestial Seasonings fully embraces its delightfully kitschy vibe. It embodies, through extremely well-executed marketing, what makes tea-drinking so appealing, even for Americans: Tea makes you feel safe and at home. At the end of the tour, I felt as though I had been hugged by an old friend.
The Celestial Seasonings factory tour is a sneak peek behind the scenes of a brand you pass everyday in the grocery store. Much more meaningfully, however, it thrusted me back into the comforts and warmth of my godmother’s kitchen. This corporate headquarters is driven by nostalgia, and if you give in to its schtick, I promise it will transport you, too. 

More like this: The four most exhilarating day hikes in Boulder, Colorado
The post How foraged Colorado herbs kickstarted America’s love of herbal tea appeared first on Matador Network.
December 3, 2019
ishoothoops basketball instagrammer

Max Pittman was walking to his office near San Diego, California, when he passed an empty basketball court that made him pause. He’d played for as long as he can remember and his dad was a college basketball coach, but this one changed the way he looks at the game, who plays it, and all the different places it’s played. Since that first shot in 2018, he’s traveled around the United States and Europe, documenting basketball courts and players and building a global community along the way through his blog, Full Court Shots, and Instagram account, @ishoothoops_.
Few sports are as loved around the world as basketball. Invented by a Canadian-American in the 1890s, it first reached the Olympic stage in 1936. Spreading love for the game became an international issue taken upon by the National Basketball Association (NBA), which started in 1946 and has been playing international games for decades. To date, the NBA has seven basketball academies on four continents, and games are shown to more than 200 countries and territories.
While it trails football (soccer to those in the US), basketball is continuously growing and close to becoming as universal a sport — something that’s immediately clear from Pittman’s photos.
“Ever since I started the account, I’ve had lots of people reach out to me to share courts in their areas or on their travels,” Pittman says. “It’s been really amazing to have such a great response and interest in courts across the world from friends and other people in the community of hoopers.”

Photo: Max Pittman
Pittman’s passion project has changed the way he approaches travel and meeting people who might not speak the same language other than a love for the game. Before going to Europe on a recent trip, he opened up Google Earth and started looking for courts in the cities he was visiting. He found spots in Copenhagen, The Hague, Paris, and Barcelona. He spoke with locals to find where pick-up games were going on. Once he got there, he’d play some and then, if the atmosphere was right and the people were fine with it, he’d shoot some photos. The result is a travelogue through the lens of a sport that connects people across country lines.
“Everyone is there to hoop and to game,” Pittman says about finding new courts around the US and abroad. He adds, laughing, “No matter where you are, ball is life.”

Photo: Max Pittman
In Paris’s Pigalle neighborhood, there’s a court squeezed between the empty space of two buildings. The fashion brand Pigalle and design firm Ill-Studio splashed the unassuming court with colors in 2015 that contrast with the historic buildings that wall three sides of the court.
“[The Pigalle court] in Paris was one of the coolest, visually aesthetic courts I’ve seen,” Pittman says. He came across it after talking to a local basketball and clothing store. “It’s not a big court by any means, just a playground with a neighborhood that turned into an art project.”
“In Barcelona, there was this really cool industrial looking court also right on the beach, so it was really cool to see the contrast from the industrial to the beach culture of Barcelona,” Pittman says. In addition to the court itself, there are the eye-catching characters “like the guy who wears a Michael Jordan jersey all the time.”

Photo: Max Pittman
People don’t always feature in Pittman’s shots. Some courts have full-court games going at all times; others are empty. Pittman has plans to build up his portfolio of basketball portraits, as he’s found that people are generally happy to let him take some shots and that players from everywhere are more similar than different.

Photo: Max Pittman
Photographing courts and people close to Pittman’s home base of California is often just as satisfying as when traveling abroad. Efforts like Project Backboard, which revitalizes courts through colorful and local-led paint jobs, ensure that there’s no shortage of aesthetically pleasing basketball courts to play on and make images of. Locally, Pittman has shot in San Diego, San Francisco, and Newport, among others. New York City and Singapore are both near the top of his list of places he wants to go.

Photo: Max Pittman
With fewer than 200 followers at the time of publication, Pittman doesn’t claim to be an Instagram influencer. Today, it’s a hobby that he admits isn’t necessarily in his comfort zone but that he’s working on getting better at every time he goes out. But he’s also found there’s a growing interest in his work, and a community of like-minded photographers who share images of basketball courts and players on Instagram. Pittman cites @Koolmac and @shafik as inspiration, as well as the accounts @Local-Hoops and @Hoopsoutside.
“There are more people out there like me that I’ve had meetings with and connected with over the months that I’ve been doing this,” Pittman says. “It’s a community of people who love to play basketball and love to take pictures, and it’s fun to be part of it, try out new things, get responses from it, and just get out there and play basketball and do the things I love.” 

More like this: 18 sports halls of fame that are actually worth visiting
The post Photographer’s travel images show the universal love of basketball appeared first on Matador Network.
Best things to do in North India

If North India is known for one thing, it’s the incredibly varied landscapes — from humid, lush plains to dry, sandy deserts to the heights of the snow-capped Himalayas. For this reason, it’s emerged as a hub for India’s adventure travel with activities such as trekking, climbing, rafting, and biking — sometimes all in the same location.
Most of the popular areas for these activities are in the numerous valleys that make up the region’s ever-changing landscape. Whether you’re into hardcore, multiday expeditions at lung-torturing elevations or are just after an escape into nature from the chaotic cities, North India’s valleys have adventures for every type of traveler. Here’s how you can navigate and make the most of them.
1. Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Photo: adidas5nb/Shutterstock
Spiti translates to the “middle land,” which is a fitting description of this high-altitude valley that separates India and Tibet. It’s characterized by a dry desert environment with villages appearing like small oases on the rugged valley floor.
It’s emerged as one of the most popular destinations in Asia for motorbike enthusiasts. In high season, the roads connecting Spiti Valley with the major nearby cities of Manali and Shimla become clogged with Royal Enfield motorcycles, as both foreign and domestic tourists chase one of India’s most epic road trips. It’s also possible to tackle the road by bus, but expect a full-day jaunt of endless rough and bumpy roads.
You can head to Spiti from either the nearby Kinnaur Valley or Manali. Whichever you choose, you’ll notice a dramatic transition from the green, fertile slopes of the lower Himalayas to the dry, desert-like landscape of the Tibetan Plateau. Spiti is technically open all year round for visitors. However, the Manali road is only open for a short time, from June to September, and remains snowed under for the rest of the year.
Aside from biking in and out, there are plenty of hikes available in the valley itself, from day hikes to nearby villages to multi-day traverses over the valley further afield. However, the elevation of Kaza, the main town in Spiti, should not be overlooked as it sits at around 12,500 feet. Acclimatization is essential if you’re planning any physical activity.
2. Kinnaur Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Photo: Amit kg/Shutterstock
Just over the mountains from barren Spiti, you will find a lush, green environment at a slightly easier-to-breathe altitude. Kinnaur Valley is home to small villages sitting amongst apple orchards, with Himalayan peaks towering right above.
It is more accessible than Spiti, with roads open all year round — although spring and autumn are the most popular seasons to visit. Its proximity to Shimla, the state’s capital, also makes it a popular destination. If you leave the main road, however, you’ll find more secluded places to enjoy. As the last village on the Indo-Tibet frontier, Chitkul is a favorite choice, and it’s a perfect place to relish the incredible Himalayan landscape without the traffic.
Mountain biking has recently emerged as a popular activity in Kinnaur Valley, with single and multi-day excursions available. It’s even possible to ride between Kinnaur and Spiti Valley, which, at an epic two weeks, is one of North India’s ultimate adventures and is not for the faint hearted.
3. Nubra Valley, Ladakh

Photo: Nuamfolio/Shutterstock
Once an old trading route that connected Tibet with Pakistan via the Karakoram Pass, Nubra is a high-altitude desert valley that is home to some of the most otherworldly landscapes on the planet. Its incredible contrasting terrain includes rolling sand dunes surrounded by snow-capped, rugged mountains and glacial rivers that run through the valley like arteries.
Getting to Nubra requires a drive or ride along one of the highest motorable roads in the world, which most people tackle by motorcycle or jeep. Once there, taking a ride on one of Nubra’s double humped camels is considered a quintessential experience. They are usually arranged around the sand dunes at Hunder, a village in the middle of the valley, where the magnificent landscape can be most appreciated.
Situated in the very far north of the country, Nubra was one of the last places to be opened up to foreigners on the subcontinent, making it an interesting cultural experience as well as a visual spectacle and exciting adventure. The road connecting the valley with the rest of India is completely snowed in during winter, and by far the best time to take the road trip is in summer.
4. Zanskar Valley, Ladakh

Photo: Voraorn Ratanakorn/Shutterstock
Zanskar Valley is one of the remotest places left on the subcontinent and is much less visited than other areas in North India. This makes it a true adventure for those with time on their hands. It’s yet another high-altitude valley with jaw dropping, rocky mountains, and a mostly arid landscape. However, unlike Spiti or Nubra, it sees much less traffic. It’s not unusual to be able to enjoy panoramic views of the rugged Zanskar range without another soul in sight.
The area was part of the former Tibetan kingdom, and the valley is dotted with ancient Buddhist monasteries — some of which still require days of hiking on foot to reach. Trekking is by far the most appealing experience that Zanskar has to offer, and it can even make for a more audacious option of getting in or out of the valley to replace the otherwise long and bouncy drive. There are multi-day treks connecting Zanskar with Leh, the capital of Ladakh, to the north or the Leh-Manali road further east. In fact, in winter, trekking in or out becomes the only option, and the famous week-long Chadar trek that traverses the frozen river into the valley is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
In summer, rafting the rapids of the Zanskar River is also becoming increasingly popular. In a one-day excursion, you can reach the confluence with the mighty Indus River that gave India its name. If it’s your first time, half-day excursions can be a great introduction to the world of river rafting.
5. Parvati Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Photo: Mazur Travel/Shutterstock
This lush, forested valley has become a favorite backpacker hangout, where travelers come to relax away from the intensity of India’s larger cities. It’s got a well-known reputation as a hippie magnet with live music cafes and quality hashish that is grown in surrounding villages. However, the incredible and not-too-distant Himalayan views also mean that it is where you can find some of India’s best treks and rock-climbing opportunities. There are camping treks as well as plenty of waterfalls and villages to explore on more gentle day hikes.
The most common and scenic multi-day options are Chandrakhani Pass and Sar Pass — the latter of which is also where many rock climbers head for some of India’s best climbing routes. It’s a perfect area for rock-climbing novices, and introductory day trips can be arranged from popular villages in the valley like tourist-oriented Kasol.
Parvati is much more accessible and comfortable when compared to exploring some of the other more remote valleys in North India. The presence of a well-developed tourism industry there means you can have all the comforts like good food and strong WiFi but still indulge in Himalayan views and hike as strenuously, or not, as you please.
6. Valley of Flowers, Uttarakhand

Photo: lakkana savaksuriyawong/Shutterstock
This national park bordering Tibet and Nepal is famous for having more than 300 varieties of rare alpine flowers. It has even been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2005. The most beautiful part of the valley is only accessible by foot and can be done in one long day hike. The valley’s incredible flora change month to month in summer, but it’s widely accepted that after the first monsoon rains, the blanket of colors is at its most prominent. The park is only open from June to October each year.
The valley requires a bit of planning and traveling to reach. A long full day by road will get you from tourist favorite Rishikesh to Joshimath, the closest town, where you’ll then need to drive another hour to the park entrance. It’s best to stay the night in Joshimath and head for the valley in the morning as the hike itself takes around six to eight hours. If it were an easier place to get to, it would likely be one of India’s most “Instagrammed” locations — as the colourful fields and steep mountains covered by monsoon mist make for a striking photo that’s worth all the effort.
7. Aru Valley, Kashmir

Photo: ImagesofIndia/Shutterstock
Aru Valley could easily be referred to as India’s “mini Switzerland” for its green, snow-capped mountains with herds of sheep and goats crowding the slopes. However, its position in Kashmir has made it significantly under-visited by most people to North India due to the political turmoil that often shrouds the region. In reality, it is a pocket of peace and serenity, and the friendly inhabitants will repeatedly reassure you that the village and valley itself have not seen violence for decades.
Those who do make it to the area tend to base themselves in Pahalgam, a town with regular travel comforts like hotels, WiFi, and restaurants. However, just 7.5 miles further into the valley, you can also stay in Aru village, home to a handful of comfortable guesthouses and an incredible mountain retreat that will certainly make you want to stay longer than expected. The village is spectacularly encircled with vibrant emerald mountains sprinkled with snow all year round. From there, you can follow the many trails that lead even further into the valley for beautiful day hikes. Or, if you’re up for a longer trip, you can organize multi-day treks and horseback riding excursions deeper into the area to gawk at high glaciers and lakes that reflect the surrounding mountains like a natural mirror.
Aru Valley is accessible all year round, although snowfall in winter limits some of the trekking options. If you do find yourself there in winter, you can always swap the hiking boots for skis, with nearby slopes home to some of the best skiing in the Himalayas. 

More like this: Northeast India is the country’s most adventure-packed region
The post How to explore the wild, awe-inspiring valleys of North India appeared first on Matador Network.
Israel travel as an atheist

I was about to devour one of the great joys of Israel, its breakfast, when the tour guide, Ofer, broke the news. Rockets launched from Gaza the night before had struck the south.
We were in the tree-lined tea house gazebo of the Port and Blue Hotel in Tel Aviv. Guests at nearby tables murmured about the unfortunate news. I put my fork down. Clearly the shakshouka, fresh hummus, and Israeli salad could wait. I turned to Ofer. A smiling Israeli Jewish man in his 60s with a calm, slightly raspy voice, he had the comforting demeanor of a wise uncle.
“Doesn’t the Iron Dome (Israel’s missile air defense system) intercept all rockets?” I asked.
Ofer thoughtfully adjusted his glasses, shook his head. “Most, not all.”
“Can rockets from Gaza reach Tel Aviv?”
“They can,” he said nonchalantly.
Voices from back in Canada, when I announced that I was going to Israel, filled my head. “Is it safe?” My mother asked, her forehead creased with concern. A bewildered Jewish friend questioned why I’d go and helpfully reminded me, “…you’re not Jewish.”
“You’re into Jesus-y stuff now?” asked an equally confused atheist pal.
A left-wing comrade had declared, “If you truly support Palestinians, you’d never go to Israel.”
These voices rang loud. Was I right to be here?
I finished breakfast and scrolled the news. Ten rockets fired from Gaza, eight intercepted, one Israeli home destroyed.
“Come,” Ofer said. “Let’s enjoy the day.”
Understanding the conflict

Photo: Hans Verburg/Shutterstock
No matter how traveled I am, as I embark on a new trip, like many of us, I still carry the baggage of perception and belief. From an early age our self-identities are shaped by family and culture. Throughout our lives we’re bombarded with biased opinions — from media and otherwise — that are pro-this and anti-that.
The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is one of the most complex, controversial, and longest-lasting in the world. At its core, it’s a struggle between Jewish Zionists (who believe Jewish people deserve their own state in Israel, their ancestral homeland) and Palestinians (the Arab population that come from the land that Israel now controls). Following a 1967 war between Israel and Egypt-Jordan-Syria, Israel gained control of the West Bank and Gaza, two territories with majority Palestinian populations. Israel and Palestine have long disagreed over who gets what land and how it is controlled.
Global public opinion (as well as my own) generally tilts in favor of Palestine. In BBC World Service polls over the years, Israel has consistently ranked as the fourth least popular country after Iran, North Korea, and Pakistan.
In my simplistic view, I saw Israel as a destination primarily enjoyed by Jewish folks, Zionists, and Christians. Why, then, would an atheist, liberal “lefty” want to go there?
Touring Jaffa, a town that breaks through stereotypes and preconceptions

Photo: eFesenko/Shutterstock
On the surface, war and politics seem distant in Tel Aviv; the young, secular hipsters and LGBTQ population are ostensibly more intent on revelry. Much to the chagrin of the devout, in this Mediterranean city, hedonism is the main religion.
Tel Aviv feels like a Middle Eastern version of Lisbon mixed with San Francisco. For this very reason, it’s a great way to ease into Israel. On any given day, sun-chasers play volleyball or lounge on the powdery sands that stretch for nine miles along the Mediterranean coast while surfers catch waves at Hilton, Maravi, or Dolphinarium Beaches. Meanwhile, in the heart of the city, the famous tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard sees tourists and locals enjoying dozens of coffee kiosks, top-rated restaurants, art galleries, and high-end shops, many housed in the hundreds of tastefully restored Bauhaus buildings.
Regardless of the rocket attack in the south that day, there appeared to be no threat to the city. The air-raid sirens were quiet. The sun was out, and people were smiling.
At the southern end of Tel Aviv is the 4,000-year-old port city of Jaffa. Ofer and I emerged from its labyrinthine alleyways to the foot of the centuries old Al-Bahr Mosque. It towered above old Jaffa, a biblical port said to be founded by Japheth, the son of Noah. Home to around 30,000 Jews and 16,000 Arabs, Ofer tells me Jaffa prides itself on being a mixed city.
In a search for food, we detoured through the crowded Turkish bazaar of the Jaffa flea market, its laneways draped in antique jewelry, leather goods, and swaths of fabric. The stalls were lined with wood crafts and musical instruments, silver trinkets, and much more.
Relief from the bustle was found at one of Jaffa’s most beloved restaurants, Cafe Puaa on Rabbi Yohanan Street in the heart of the flea market. This retro restaurant serves up wholesome, homestyle Mediterranean and Israeli fare. Around me, jubilant families spoke Hebrew and Arabic while chic 20-somethings conversed in English and Russian. After a delicious meal of stewed chicken and curried pumpkin dumplings, I finished with a crisp Negev craft beer.
Simmering tensions don’t quell Tel Aviv’s Mediterranean nightlife

Photo: SJ Travel Photo and Video/Shutterstock
That evening, we headed north of Jaffa to Rothschild Street for a taste of Tel Aviv’s famous nightlife.
Across from the city’s largest synagogue is Port Sa’id, a restaurant, bar, and record library that is the capital of Tel Avivan cool. The patio was overflowing with dozens of Millennials and Gen Z-ers happy to be seen at the city’s hippest spot. For years people have been flocking here in part because of the food menu, created by iconic Israeli chef, Eyal Shani. After a simple yet flavorful Bread Salad (chunks of fresh bread, tomatoes, onions, and herbs), I motioned to the bartender for another Goldstar. But when the two young German dudes beside me handed the DJ a record of German oompah music to play, even though there’s an entire wall of good vinyl to choose from, I took it as my cue to move on.
Down a somewhat hidden alley off of Allenby Street, red pathway lights led to another of Tel Aviv’s favorite venues, Sputnik. It’s reminiscent of a Budapest ruin bar — just the right amount of shabby, with art-lined brick walls and multiple rooms offering multiple types of music. In the room blasting garage rock, I made small talk with a bartender that used to live in Canada.
“What do you miss about Edmonton?” I asked her.
She popped open a beer and handed it to me. “Nothing,” she said.
After a moment she reconsidered. “Actually, I liked how everyone, no matter who they were, got along with each other. But like, for real.”
On the surface, Tel Aviv appears to be a place where Muslim, Jewish, and Christian cultures intertwine, where diversity is a unifying force. In many ways and for many people, it is. But en route back to my hotel I get a sobering reminder that this isn’t always the case.
My taxi driver, who appeared to be in his early 30s, took a call. Loud rap music played on the stereo. I couldn’t tell if he was speaking Hebrew or Arabic.
One of the first things I learned upon arriving in Israel is that all signs are in both languages (often including English, as well). Hebrew is Israel’s official language. Arabs make up 21 percent of Israel’s 8.7 million people. For 70 years, Arabic was also an official state language, but in 2018 that status was revoked in a move that many have called unabashedly racist.
Once the cab driver hung up, I asked him if he was speaking Arabic. His eyes met mine in the rearview mirror. “No, Hebrew, man, Hebrew. I’m not a fucking Arab.” As we wound through the streets he went on a rant. “We Jews, we tolerate the Arabs, we live beside them, but we don’t like them. I grew up in Jaffa, I live there. We talk to the Arabs, we deal with them, but we don’t trust them.”
“You don’t have any Arab friends?” I asked.
“In high school I used to. But not now.”
Trust that has never materialized

Photo: eFesenko/Shutterstock
“Jews don’t trust us.” May said in a hushed tone. She was referring to why there are so few Arabs in the Israeli military, but coincidentally confirmed what my cab driver had told me the night before. We were on the garden patio of Fattoush, an Arab restaurant at the foot of the Baha’i Gardens in Haifa, Israel’s third largest city.
Half an hour earlier I, along with a Russian traveler I’d befriended, had struck up a conversation with May, who sat at a table next to us. She seemed happy to be conversing with two strangers, a common quality I’d found with Israelis. A recent university graduate, May was at Fattoush preparing for a job interview.
Around us on the packed terrace were twisted, hanging olive trees strung with fairy lights, potted wildflowers, and perfectly placed Hindu sculptures. Haifa is an Israeli city considered to be a model of Arab-Jew coexistence. With the mix of Hebrew and Arabic being spoken by the surrounding patrons, it was easy to see why that might be the perception.
“We’re second-class citizens,” May said matter-of-factly. “If an Arab kills an Arab, the police don’t care. But if an Arab kills a Jew…” She trailed off, eyes darting around.
Despite this, May quietly declared she was proud to be an Arab Israeli.
“What’s an Arab country you wish you could visit?” I asked her.
“My dream is to go to Lebanon, to Beirut. But if I went, I’d be arrested when I came back.”
Days later, I asked Ofer if he thought Arabs were considered second-class citizens in Israel. He considered this for a moment. He seemed unsure of what, exactly, he should say. Eventually he nodded and agreed that it was an issue. But he also questioned if that wasn’t largely the case in Western countries too.
In Jerusalem, tensions remain on display — sometimes

Photo: Jose HERNANDEZ Camera 51/Shutterstock
I hadn’t seen many soldiers carrying automatic weapons until Jerusalem. Dozens of young men and women, many still teenagers, roamed in packs at the Mahane Yehuda Market giggling, eating ice cream, taking selfies, clutching machine guns like it was no big deal.
Where Tel Aviv is the tolerant, laid back, cosmopolitan heart of Israel, Jerusalem is its religious conscience. It contains sites holy to Christianity, Islam, and Judaism, and is the epicenter of much of the country’s religious strife. It’s currently Israel’s capital. However, if Palestinians ever get their state, they see part of the city as their capital as well.
Ofer stopped at a stall in the Yehuda market and bought me a Kanafeh, an iconic Palestinian pastry made from white-brine cheese, almonds, pistachios, orange food coloring, and a diabetes-inducing amount of sugar. I tried the sticky dessert, winced at its sweetness, and took in the scene. As far as the eye could see in either direction were stalls filled with produce, nuts, spices, and treats, interspersed by the occasional restaurant or pub. Here, shouting is the hawker’s preferred method of advertising their goods. Wide-eyed tourists milled about alongside locals and soldiers. Above us, lining the center of the greenhouse-like roof, were fans flanked by dozens of surveillance cameras.
I gawked at the cameras, then mentioned to Ofer the presence of all the young soldiers. He nodded and told me that suicide bombings here in the market in 1997 and 2002 collectively killed 22 and injured nearly three hundred. Since 2002 there have been no attacks. Tighter security, Ofer explained, along with the infamous border wall, increased prosperity in both Israel and the Palestinian territories. This, along with a stronger desire for peace by the Palestinian Authority over that of the current Israeli government, is why he believes Israel has known relative calm and stability for the last 15 or so years.
Exploring the traditions of Old Jerusalem through architecture and cuisine

Photo: Rostislav Ageev/Shutterstock
A walk in Jerusalem’s Old City, which is surrounded by monumental, centuries old walls, will take you through its four quarters. The most populous being the Muslim quarter, followed by the Christian, Jewish, and Armenian sections. On this afternoon, the narrow alleyways crackled with activity as hundreds of pilgrims from across the globe have come to worship at the Western Wall, Dome of the Rock, St. James Church, al-Aqsa Mosque, or Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
The energy of the Old City was palpable. I understood then that you didn’t need to be religious to appreciate the history or the significance of these sites that are sacred to so many.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre looks less like a church than it does a jumble of ancient buildings, representing different architectural eras and styles, casually mashed together around a small courtyard. Since the fourth century, Christians have been coming here on pilgrimage, many believing the church to be built over Golgotha, the site of Jesus’s crucifixion.
As I walked through the arched entrance into the dimly lit church, I was immediately overcome with the scent of burning incense and a crush of tourists. Underneath the main chapel dome is the rotunda that supposedly contains Jesus’ tomb. Snaking around the Ottoman-era structure was a long line of worshippers waiting impatiently to enter. A woman and her elderly mother ducked under the guide rope, butted to the front of the line, and snuck inside. The gathered shouted at them in Greek and Russian.
Disagreements here are not uncommon. Over the centuries, clashes have occurred between the different Christian factions who share ownership of the church (Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Syrian, Coptic, and Ethiopian). As a result, since the seventh century, the keys to it have been held by the Nusseibehs, considered to be the oldest Muslim family in Jerusalem. To this day it remains their duty to unlock the doors each morning and secure them again at night.
Back near the church entrance, dozens of worshippers urgently jostled for position to bow and kiss, touch, and rub the Stone of Anointing, a rose-colored slab on the floor. Despite the fact that the stone was only added to the church in 1810, Christian tradition still maintains that the body of Jesus was washed and oiled on it after he was removed from the cross in preparation for burial in a nearby cave. Exiting the church I thought, if only we could harness the energy of devotion, Jerusalem’s Old City would be an almighty power plant.

Photo: John Theodor/Shutterstock
If your devotion is more readily given to food than to the biblical significance of old stones, then it’s outside the walls of the Old City you must venture. Situated in an ancient building in the Artist Quarter is The Eucalyptus, certainly among Jerusalem’s, and likely the world’s, most historically unique dining experiences. Owned by renowned Chef Moshe Basson, it serves a modern interpretation of biblical cuisine.
“Welcome, welcome!” Chef Basson beamed at us with open arms. The robust, pony-tailed chef was standing at the head of the table. Laid out in front of us was a feast: slow-cooked neck of lamb with root vegetables stewed in a clay pot; three shot glasses each filled with artichoke, tomato, and lentil soups; fish falafels; seared mallard breast; and couscous with leeks, grilled veggies and braised lamb. “This is my passion,” the chef explained. “Everyone is welcome here.” He enthused about his love of wildcrafting and told us how all the spices and herbs used were cultivated in the hills of Jerusalem and Judea.
When someone cooks with intention, artistry, and adoration, that meal would be the result. The dishes at Eucalyptus were divine. It strengthened my newfound belief that Israeli food is right up there with the best cuisines in the world.
“It’s all about love here,” Chef Basson said before heading off to welcome guests at nearby tables.
An uncertain path for the future

Photo: Jose HERNANDEZ Camera 51/Shutterstock
‘My home and my soul are not for sale,’ the Arabic graffiti read. We were driving through Silwan, a Palestinian neighborhood in a gulley at the bottom of Jerusalem’s Old City.
“Jewish organizations are trying to buy up property here,” Ofer said. But unlike in the West Bank, at least in Silwan, the settlers ask first. A few miles later, Ofer pointed out the window. “The infamous wall.”
He was referring to the 300-mile-long Israeli West Bank barrier that Israel considers a deterrent against terrorism, and Palestinians consider an apartheid wall. On the other side of it is Ma’ale Adumim, a large and ever-expanding Jewish Israeli settlement in the occupied West Bank. Much of the international community considers these settlements illegal as they encroach on, and split apart, Palestinian communities. Ofer shook his head at the site of it and muttered bewilderment at these settlements’ continued expansion.
Days later, I was on a plateau at the ruins of the ancient fortress of Masada looking out over the Dead Sea and surrounding Judaean Desert. The midday heat was made bearable by a light breeze. Across the Dead Sea, Jordan lay in the distance, one of only two Arab countries (along with Egypt) that Israelis can legally visit.
My thoughts went back to Jerusalem. At the western edge of the Old City is the Wailing Wall, considered the holiest site for Jews. It was there, days earlier, that I’d maneuvered through the large crowd of worshippers and found a spot at the massive limestone rampart. Every available inch of its weathered cracks was stuffed with folded bits of paper — people’s prayers.
I figured this would be one of the more fitting places to offer up positive thoughts. I placed my hand on the wall. Even with all of Israel’s flaws, I thought, I’d be back. Next time venturing further into Palestine. I closed my eyes and imagined two states one day co-existing in peace. 

More like this: It’s time for wine drinkers to start paying attention to Israeli wine
The post In Israeli cities, experience modernity, conflict, and history in one trip appeared first on Matador Network.
Best, worst expat destinations 2019

Moving abroad is a common dream for many, but to make sure the ambition never turns into a nightmare, the most important consideration is selecting the perfect destination.
To help you make an educated choice, this report from InterNations uses survey data from 20,259 participants to show the top countries for expats in 2019. It uses criteria such as quality of life, ease of settling in, working abroad, family life, personal finance, and cost of living.
Perhaps surprisingly, the top 10 destinations for expats are all over the map. Taiwan ranked number one, scoring highly on quality of life, personal finance, working life, ease of settling in, and affordability of healthcare. Indeed, job satisfaction and an above-average economy boosted Taiwan to the top spot, despite its relatively low ranking for “ease of settling in” due to language barriers.
Other countries ranking in the top 10 include:
Vietnam
Portugal
Mexico
Spain
Singapore
Bahrain
Ecuador
Malaysia
The Czeck Republic
The results are pretty evenly spread throughout the world, with five continents represented. Vietnam owes its number two ranking to its perceived friendliness and being a place where making local friends is considered relatively easy.
The bottom 10 hold some surprises, as well. Kuwait was ranked the worst place for expats due to its poor quality of life, work-life balance, and difficulty finding a decent job.
Sharing the bottom 10 with Kuwait are:
Italy
Nigeria
Brazil
Turkey
India
The UK
Greece
Russia
South Korea
The UK, Italy, and South Korea, are potentially surprising selections for the bottom 10. Italy might be on many Americans’ list for the ultimate expat destination, but it actually rates quite low for quality of life, career prospects, personal finance, and the economy. 

Photo: InterNations

More like this: Don’t make this your biggest regret when living abroad
The post Survey reveals the best and worst expat destinations of 2019 appeared first on Matador Network.
How to hike Speyside Whisky Trail

Scotland has a reputation for dramatic highland landscapes, making it an ideal destination for outdoor lovers. But there are plenty of places in the world with stunning scenery. What sets apart the Speyside Whisky Trail is its long-standing tradition of scotch displayed alongside the remarkable terrain. The Speyside region is home to 50 Scotch malt whisky distilleries, earning it the honor of having the largest concentration of whisky distilleries anywhere in the world. The men and women who operate these distilleries guard generations of knowledge and know-how. History buffs and scotch connoisseurs alike will appreciate the ties the spirit has to Highland culture and folklore. You can walk your way through the region, stopping off frequently to taste scotch along the way.
But first — understanding the Scotch whisky tradition

Photo: Francesco Bonino/Shutterstock
The first written records of Scots making whisky go as far back as 1494. The Scottish Whisky Association believes that whisky in Scotland evolved from “uisge beatha,” a Gaelic beverage whose name translates to “water of life.” Some believe that distilling was brought to Scotland by Christian missionaries visiting the Highlands, but others think Highland farmers figured out distillery methods themselves. Traditionally, Scotch whisky is made using essentially two ingredients: water and malted barley. Malting is a germination process where the barley produces sugar. After this process is complete, the barley is taken to distilleries, where it is fermented using yeast in oak casks (barrels) for a minimum of three years. The result of this process is what the world refers to as scotch.
When to go, what to pack, and what you need to prepare for
Scotland has unforgiving weather and a moody climate. That’s why spring and summer are the best seasons for a visit to the region. Most site locations are open from April through October, though the weather might not be fantastic on either end of that time frame. Even during the warmer seasons, Speyside can be breezy. Hikers should dress in layers, avoiding cotton in case of rain. Good hiking boots are essential for the varied terrain and make the often muddy bits of the trail less of a hazard. Scotland’s weather likes to change her mind, so gloves, hats, and sunglasses are all good ideas.
Cell phone reception along the whisky trail is spotty in parts, so make sure to pack an old-school paper map, just in case. It also doesn’t hurt to pack a basic first-aid kit with bandages and such. Bring cash with you for smaller purchases (#trailsnacks) and to save you time trying to find one of the few cash points available in the towns that dot the trail. Bringing dogs with you on the trail is made difficult since most distilleries don’t allow animals and neither do nearby accommodation options, most of which are locally owned bed and breakfasts.
Planning your whisky trail route

Photo: Lillian16/Shutterstock
From tip to tip, the Speyside Way Whisky Trail runs 72 miles from Buckie to Aviemore, though many shorter options are available if you’re more of a sipper than a walker. The trail itself is a combination of railway lines, rolling hills, thick forests, and coastline. There are parts of the track that are suitable for almost any fitness level, but it’s a more enjoyable journey for those who live an active lifestyle and don’t mind a hill or two. For the full trek, you’ll need to be in good hiking shape.
It’s important to note that the hiking trail doesn’t directly lead to each stop on the official Malt Whisky Trail, though each whisky highlight located in the region is accessible from the towns along the way. Hiking tours come in a variety of manners. Macs Adventure operates a self-guided tour, starting at $845, which includes lodging and printed maps but leaves you to the trail with just your crew for six days. Hillwalk Tours has options for beginner, intermediate, and advanced hikers that range in length from 10 miles per day to nearly 20, with options built around tasting and others for walking. Its 8-Day Challenging Hike covers the entire tour in a manner similar to what is broken down here.
The number of stops along the trail you make is dependent on the amount of time you can dedicate to the hike and the kind of terrain you’re willing to cross. Typically, it’s suggested that visitors spend between five to seven days on the trail so that they can taste world-famous whisky and soak in the region’s history. Dedicated hikers may prefer to visit some of the distilleries after completing the trek so as to avoid straying off-course, and because some require a vehicle or public transport to access.
If you are planning on braving the trail sans guide, you’ll need to arrange your own accommodation on each night of your journey and should budget for the cost of transportation to and from the trail, as well as the on-site tours of distilleries along the way. Those opting to book a guide will have bed-and-breakfast accommodation booked as part of the overall cost of their trail tour.
For the purpose of this article, the full length of the trail is covered.
Day 1 on the Speyside Way Whisky Trail — Buckie to Fochabers
Distance: 11.1 miles
Elevation gain: 131 feet

Photo: CL-Medien/Shutterstock
Most hikers start in Buckie, a coastal town northeast of Inverness, though you can also start on the other side in Aviemore. Determining your start point is really a matter of personal preference. Buckie is at a lower elevation than Aviemore, so walking from Buckie means you take on more incline over time. From here, the trail follows rugged Scottish coastline to the mouth of a river that in turn leads to Fochabers and Rothes. The latter is home to some of the most famous distilleries on the trail including Glen Grant and its Victorian Garden.
Distilleries to visit on and near this stretch:
Glen Grant’s tour price is a reasonable £7.50 (about $9.75) and includes entry to its private Victorian Garden.
Day 2 — Fochabers to Craigellachie and Dufftown
Distance: 18 miles
Elevation gain: 1,970 feet

Photo: johnbraid/Shutterstock
Craigellachie, the next town over, is where hikers can pay to visit the Speyside Cooperage facility before making their way to Dufftown Loop. This bit of trail takes hikers past Balvenie Castle to the Glenfiddich distillery, both of which are worth a stop.
Distilleries to visit on and near this stretch:
As a break from the distillery stops on the trail, Speyside Cooperage is a site where those passing through can see how whisky casks (barrels) are built or repaired using traditional methods. Tours through the cooperage only take 45 minutes and cost £4 ($5) per person.
The Glenfiddich distillery is owned and operated by the Grant family. The facility boasts the world’s most awarded malt whisky and was the first distillery in the region to offer tours. The stop has four tours for guests to choose from with prices starting from £10 ($13) and reaching £95 ($123).
Strathisla is the oldest distillery in the Scottish Highlands still in operation. For £15 ($19.50) per person, visitors of the trail get a 75-minute tour that ends with four whisky tastings. If you’re short on time, you can stop in for a tasting experience for £10 ($13).
Day 3 — Dufftown to Aberlour and Ballindalloch
Distance: 15 miles
Elevation gain: 1,050 feet

Photo: Pavel Sova/Shutterstock
Day three is a walk through the visible history of Scotland’s railway. You’ll walk along the railway through Aberlour and eventually to Ballindalloch, meandering past rundown depots. You’ll want to grab Walke’s shortbread from Aberlour and keep your eyes peeled for steam trains rolling through the surrounding area. Ballindalloch Castle is one of the highlights in this area. You’ll need a vehicle transfer to visit The Glenlivet distillery. From there, you can hike back to Ballindalloch if you have a half-day to dedicate to it.
Distilleries to visit on and near this stretch:
Cardhu, located in Knockando, prides itself on being the only distillery in Speyside that was started by a woman. Tours run every hour and cost £8 ($10.40).
Macallan offers multiple tour options ranging from the general information and tasting to high-end dinners and specialized experiences.
Glenfarclas charges £7.50 ($9.75) per person to tour and also offers a £40 ($52) Connoisseurs’ Tasting.
The Glenlivet distillery is one of the most popular of the whisky sites, and thus its price tag is a bit higher than the others at £12.50 ($16.25) per person. The tour lasts 75 minutes and includes three whisky tastings. You can hop on one every 30 minutes. Those who aren’t drinking can grab light snacks or coffee at the distillery’s on-site cafe.
Day 4 — Ballinallock to Grantown-on-Spey
Distance: 15 miles
Elevation gain: 1,820 feet

Photo: Lillian16/Shutterstock
This is considered by many to be the most pleasant stretch of the hike, though it’s still a long day. You’ll walk through the small town of Cromdale and pass through the Anagach Wood into town.
Day 5 — Grantown-on-Spey to Aviemore
Distance: 17 miles
Elevation gain: 660 feet

Photo: R Scott/Shutterstock
This is the final leg of the hike, following the Strathspey Railway. You may find yourself wanting to extend your trip to spend time in Cairngorms National Park after staring at it all day from the trail. Driving from Aviemore back to Buckie takes an hour and a half direct, but to get the rest of the Malt Whisky Trail experience, detour to Forres and visit the following:
Benromach is the smallest distillery in the region and continues to make its whisky entirely by hand using traditional methods. Tours at Benromach cost £8 ($10.40) and run every half hour. If you’d like to skip the tour, you can book a tasting for £12 ($15.60).
Dallas Dhu is a distillery that is no longer in operation. Instead, a tour of Dallas Dhu offers visitors a look at the more historic side of whisky production and older technologies and methods.
Glen Moray has moved in a modern direction to utilize the latest technologies in its whisky production process. Its standard distillery tour, which will only set you back £5 ($6.50), includes two whiskies. If you’re hoping to try more, you’ll have to fork out £20 ($26) to try four whiskies. Don’t worry though, the money is well worth it since the whisky is paired with Scottish chocolate.


More like this: The spots you actually need to see in the Scottish Northern Highlands
The post Scotland’s Speyside Whisky Trail is a tough trek with delicious perks appeared first on Matador Network.
Best house rentals in Japan

Despite there now being an apparent wealth of beautiful houses available to rent by visitors to Japan, last year saw an extreme crackdown by the government on rental properties. New rules were imposed last June requiring lodgings to be registered with the local government and requiring Airbnb to remove a large number of its listings. Now, however, rental properties are back on the rise. Visitors can book traditional Japanese homes, new contemporary constructions, or even wooden cabins in the wilderness, and find the clean, minimalist design typical of Japanese homes. Here are some of the most beautiful houses you can rent in Japan.
1. Buena Vista House — near Ohara, Chiba Prefecture

Photo: Airbnb
Buena Vista House is located close to Tokyo, but in an area that is worlds away from the busy city. It sits in a terraced valley near Ohara in Chiba Prefecture, a coastal area to the east of Tokyo, and it overlooks the beautiful Pacific Ocean. Guests have access to a big circular yurt with colorful kitchen facilities and areas to relax, a cabana with an ocean view, and a rotenburo, which is an organically shaped stone hot tub. The simple structures and wooden furniture feel very much at peace with the surrounding natural area. Available activities include having a barbeque, participating in yoga lessons, and leisurely walks to nearby restaurants through the verdant vegetation.
2. Sanson Terrace — near Sakuho, Nagano Prefecture

Photo: Airbnb
If you’re looking to seriously unplug, then this tiny cottage on a mountainside provides a place to immerse yourself completely in nature. It is located near the town of Sakuho in Nagano Prefecture. It was built by owner Daigo himself and is proudly minimalist. Daigo admits it’s not a luxury property. It’s quite literally “off the grid” as the electricity comes only from solar panels and the water from tanks, and the bathroom would only seem luxurious to someone used to wild camping. But it more than makes up for its simplicity with its terrace view of Mount Morai, hammock strung between two trees, and complete isolation from the world. One guest comments that there are “no neighbors except crickets, cicadas, grasshoppers, and many other forest animals.” The diminutive interior is characterized by light wood panels, big open windows, and a little black stove complete with a copper kettle.
3. Izu Shimoda Beach House — Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture

Photo: Airbnb
Izu Shimoda Beach House also sits by the sea and is located in Shimoda, a city on the southeastern Izu peninsula. This coastal area is loved by divers and, as the owners express, “Shimoda is said to have the most beautiful sea in the Kanto area.” The beach house channels a Costa del Sol look with its white-washed walls and red roofs. In fact, the owners say their construction materials were imported from Spain. The irregular complex has plenty of little patios with seating areas and each bedroom opens onto a courtyard where you can enjoy the sea breeze. The luminous, spacious interiors feature exposed wooden beams and vintage furniture, with sunlight pouring in through big French windows with sea views.
4. Bamboo Lodge — East Tokyo

Photo: Airbnb
This rental lets guests experience architectural tradition in the middle of ultra-modern Tokyo. The three-bedroom apartment is constructed from traditional Japanese mud and cedarwood walls. The bedrooms have Japanese-style tatami floors, which were traditionally made of soft rice straw to facilitate the customary lifestyle of sitting and sleeping on the floor. The kitchen has a bamboo floor, another common construction material. The purpose of these building materials is to allow nature and fresh air inside the home. As one guest enthuses, “The house smelt very nice, there was a lingering smell of wood, similar to a good sauna.” These natural materials also help the interior to feel light, clean, and spacious. Balconies off the bedrooms allow you to peek outside to remind yourself that you’re in the middle of a bustling city.
5. Traditional Japanese house — Yonashiroyakena, Okinawa Prefecture

Photo: Wimdu
On the island of Okinawa, which lies to the south of Japan’s main island of Honshu, guests can stay in an ornate house in Yonashiroyakena. The large, open-plan interior with wooden walls and partitions is decorated with Japanese artwork and pot plants. The house has several traditional architectural features such as fusuma, sliding screens that act as doors or walls so rooms can be reconfigured, and ranma, decorative panels above the screens that are designed to let in light. The house also has low tables, called chabudai, where families normally eat, and cushioned floor seats. The terrace outside leads to a vegetable garden with goats.
6. Mt Fuji Loghouse — Mount Fuji National Park

Photo: Airbnb
This two-bedroom villa gives guests the opportunity to spend a night in the wilderness on the slopes of Japan’s most famous mountain, Mount Fuji. The mountain and surrounding Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park is now a World Heritage site. The house is located in the nearest residential area from the top of Mount Fuji. Its architectural construction rather outdoes the name “loghouse” with a dramatically pointed frontage of vast windows that allows plenty of light into the interior. There is a spacious terrace outside and a garden with barbeque facilities. Inside are floor-to-ceiling wooden panels and a cozy stove.
7. Two-story house — Shinjuku, Tokyo

Photo: Airbnb
This two-story, eight-bedroom house is located in vibrant Shinjuku and has a typical Japanese layout with classic wood and bamboo flooring. It provides guests with a grand piano and a projector, both located in a vast soundproof semi-basement where parties are actively encouraged. The widescreen projector can play DVDs or be linked up to a smartphone to use the internet, and guests can enjoy a cinematic experience sitting in an intriguing variety of chairs, including a vintage wheelchair. There’s also a large area with desks and a whiteboard for more serious guests that need to conduct conferences. The interior design is a mix of contemporary lighting, retro furniture, and the occasional nod to Japanese culture. 

More like this: Staying at a ryokan is a must in Japan. Here’s what to expect.
The post The most beautiful houses in Japan you can rent appeared first on Matador Network.
Berlin Zoo baby panda twins

The Berlin Zoo has many adorable residents, but its twin pandas take the cake. The two panda cubs born to 6-year-old female panda Meng Meng and 9-year-old male panda Jiao Qing on August 31 are as cute as can be. Meng Meng was the first giant panda to give birth in the country, making the pair the first German pandas.

Photo: Berlin Zoo
The zoo regularly posts updates about the twin’s progress on its panda blog. Since their birth, the pandas have grown black and white fur, opened their eyes, gained weight, and received their very own playpen courtesy of the zoo’s carpenters.

Photo: Berlin Zoo
In an update in October, Zoo and Tierpark Director Dr. Andreas Knieriem explained that the zoo staff has been “referring to them as ‘big one’ and ‘little one’, but thanks to Meng Meng’s nourishing milk the two siblings are now almost the same size and weight. They both weigh around two kilograms [4.4 pounds], and they are about 30 centimetres [11.8 inches] long respectively.”
Their healthy development thus far is viewed as a positive sign for the species as a whole. The World Wildlife Foundation (WWF) estimates the number of giant pandas in the wild to be 1,864. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List, the population of giant pandas is vulnerable to extinction, but is slowly increasing. Every single new cub is an important contribution to the conservation of the species.
Although the zoo is likely growing pretty attached to the panda twins, it must unfortunately send them back to China, their native land, four years after they have been weaned off Meng Meng. Meng Meng and Jiao Qing are themselves on a 15-year, $15-million loan from China, which began in 2017. Most of the money from the loan goes into a conservation program for the species. 

More like this: Finland ranked as the best destination in the world for wildlife travel
The post Berlin Zoo releases adorable photos of the first German panda twins appeared first on Matador Network.
Passenger fakes medical emergency

Airplane seats are small and uncomfortable, and every traveler wishes they could get upgraded for a spot with more legroom without having to pay up — but there’s a limit to what one should do to get the seat of their choice.
During an American Eagle flight from Pensacola to Miami on November 29, a woman claimed to have trouble breathing, causing the pilot to declare an emergency and return to Pensacola. Once back on the ground, the passenger “made it clear that she was faking the medical condition to get a bigger seat,” explained Mike Wood, Pensacola Police Department’s public information officer.
The woman in question refused to leave the plane, causing the aircraft to be grounded for over an hour and all the other passengers to deplane. The passenger was eventually removed by law enforcement and medical personnel.
Police detained the woman who is believed to be suffering from mental illness. The flight took off to Miami soon after. 

More like this: 7 rights all air passengers have and should know about
The post Woman fakes medical emergency on plane to get a better seat appeared first on Matador Network.
Rum aged in the ocean

Rum often gets a bad rap. Blame it on the less than optimal circumstances of an overly sweet and poorly concocted Mai Tai, or from the displeasure of consuming an artificially flavored rum that did not sit well (or stay for a long time). Yet as the craft distilling movement continues to boom and evolve, and as contemporary imbibers become increasingly educated, rum is finally getting a second chance. With that second chance, producers are able to innovate and take the spirit category to new depths — in one distillery’s case, literally.
Cayman Spirits Co. in Grand Cayman makes a rum that’s aged in the ocean at a depth of seven fathoms (approximately 42 feet). It’s named, appropriately, Seven Fathoms Rum. This Caymanian rum is the first, and only, rum in the world to be aged in the ocean — a feat that, as you can imagine, is not easily executed and takes a certain level of expertise to perfect.
“Early on, we were reading stories about ‘ocean rum’ which is rum that had literally crossed the ocean in barrels on ships,” Walker Romanica, owner of Cayman Spirits Co., says. “Those barrels had aged better than their counterparts onshore. To this day, distilleries use this same concept of ‘agitation’ to enhance the aging, we just thought of going back to the sea and using what we have available to us here on our doorstep in Cayman, the pristine Caribbean sea!”
When a spirit inside of a barrel is agitated by subtle movements, different parts of the liquor come in contact with the wood. This imparts more of the oak flavors faster than if a barrel were sitting stock still in a warehouse. In terms of taste, this means a spirit that’s been aging for less time in an agitated environment will have a similar oak influence to one that’s been aging in a still environment.
There are other companies that use the ocean’s motion to influence the taste of alcohol. Linie, a Norwegian aquavit, puts its liquor on a journey around the equator by ship. Jefferson’s Bourbon aged barrels of its Ocean whiskey for three and a half years on an ocean research vessel. Leclerc Briant aged bottles of its Cuvée Abyss in the ocean. Aging barrels of rum far underneath the surface and using the tides as the source of agitation, however, is special to Cayman Spirits Co.
It’s no small feat. The logistics involve partnering with a local dive company to ensure that the barreled rum is safely secured at the depth of seven fathoms. Each barrel is slightly buoyant, Romanica says, so they float to a depth of 42 feet after being attached to a mooring line on the ocean floor. It takes a special relationship with local divers to keep the aging process going, one reason why few other distilleries have attempted this method of aging.
While Seven Fathoms Rum is objectively appealing because of its aging method, there are also a couple of genuine benefits to the concept. First off, the angel’s share (the percentage of spirit that is lost year over year due to evaporation) is mitigated by the insulation of seawater. To put it simply, whatever volume of rum that is barreled to age will be kept without any loss (which is typically 2 percent of the volume per year on average). The other benefit is related to flavor, as the light oceanic agitation lends a delicate salinity to the rum’s profile. Notes of vanilla, bread pudding, mocha, and sea-salted caramel are a few of the standout flavors of this rich sipping rum.

Photo: Cayman Spirits Company/Facebook
Cayman Spirits Co. has been making Seven Fathoms for around a decade, making it somewhat ahead of the curve in the current list of businesses innovating rum. All sorts of new rums are coming into vogue, as well as a robust second-hand market for rare rums similar to the one started by avid whiskey collectors. With the emergence of this new wave of craft rums, innovation has been inevitable for rums to differentiate themselves from the rest of the bunch: Copalli Rum from Belize leans into sustainability by using its own sourced canopy water from its estate; Plantation’s pineapple rum uses the flesh and rinds of fresh Victorian pineapples during distillation and maceration to garner the true essence of pineapple in its rum. Still, rum under the ocean is unique to Cayman Spirits Co.
Before sending barrels to the bottom of the ocean, however, Cayman Spirits Co. had to deal with a bit of bureaucratic red tape that dictates what can and can’t be done in terms of aging and spirits production. It is the only distillery on the 102-square-mile island, and largely helped write the rules.
“To open a distillery in the Cayman Islands requires approval from the Department of Health, the Department of Environmental Health, the Planning Department, Building Control, the Fire Department, and more,” Romanica says. “All of these entities had never seen a distillery apply before so there were no set rules. We actually helped by commissioning a former fire chief from a distillery district in the US to provide a study on what the policies should be. It was generally an amalgamation of the American or the British rules, whichever were stricter. The entire process took more than two years, and required us to build a lot of extras to satisfy everyone, but we were able to finally get it built and start making rum.”
Though you can buy Seven Fathoms on the Cayman Islands and from retailers in the US, few experiences match drinking it on site at the distillery (you won’t, however, see where it’s aged as that’s a secret location). A man by the name of Moises is the ringleader for many of the distillery tours, and if you visit, you’ll quickly learn who he is. It’s nearly impossible to not have a memorable experience at the distillery, and tasting a rum that was aged in the ocean is just about as Caymanian as it gets. 

More like this: How Goslings Rum defines Bermudian culture
The post This Caymanian rum is aged deep in the ocean for a true island flavor appeared first on Matador Network.
Matador Network's Blog
- Matador Network's profile
- 6 followers

