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January 7, 2020

The best free things to do Bristol

This city in southwestern England is rich in history and culture. Bristol is young, with a median age that’s six years lower than the UK average, and it keeps up with the times by reinventing itself. It has adapted its heritage for modern displays, focused its economy on innovation and technology, and invested in creative and artistic endeavors. Bristol also responds to current issues; it was the European Green Capital in 2015, a distinction partly earned because of its extensive cycling routes. Visitors can enjoy year-round festivals, food variety and quality, colorful street art, and repurposed industrial architecture. The good news is that you can enjoy many of the city’s attractions for little, or no, money.


1. Bristol Museum and Art Gallery
View of the main hall in Bristol Museum

Photo: 1000 Words/Shutterstock


It’s hard to believe that this stunning historic building is free to enter, but it is. It has three spacious floors dedicated to such fascinating and diverse topics as local archaeology, Eastern art, and natural history. The wide open spaces make it an easy and pleasant place to peruse, and the museum consistently combines its permanent exhibits and unique artistic pieces with new special exhibits that appeal to a variety of audiences. Exhibits can run the gamut from one centered on the role of “magic” in different cultures throughout history to another focused on Banksy’s street art. This cultural center will especially keep families busy, because activities and workshops for the little ones happen daily. The kids have designated spaces, and can explore and learn with their imagination following different themes such as dinosaurs and wildlife.


2. Bristol Ferry Boats

Bristol’s water-buses are a great way to travel across the city, which is especially busy at peak times. They are also a great way to tour the city and get a perspective of it from the water. The river reflects the city’s features, since buildings often sit right on the riverbanks — and you can really take in Bristol’s architecture. The small yellow boats have 17 stops, from the main train station Temple Mead to the east, up to the city’s edge to the west. Fares vary, but the most you will pay is £7, or just over ($9).


The calm waters make for a smooth ride and the ferry passes or stops at some of the city’s attractions, such as the SS Great Britain, a museum ship and former passenger steamship in perfect conditions. If you opt to visit this ship, you can usually find discounts online, but a full-price ticket is £17 ($22).


3. Brandon Hill and Cabot Tower
Cabot Tower, Bristol

Photo: Stu22/Shutterstock


The 105-foot-tall historic tower sits within the Brandon Hill public park and nature reserve. Brandon Hill is the city’s oldest park, filled with a variety of trees and shrubs, as well as lovely views and walking paths. Cabot Tower’s stone walls change with the light, and a plain light-gray or cream can become a soft red, a particularly pleasant pairing with the greens of the vegetation surrounding the tower. The steep steps of the spiral staircase go up to the top for a sweeping 360-degree view of the area, and you can ascend them for free.


4. Clifton Observatory
Clifton Suspension Bridge

Photo: Jamesstone/Shutterstock


Although it’s only been an observatory since 1977, the historic building has been a landmark since 1766. It sits atop the city’s west side hill with views of the surroundings from the terraced space with outdoor seating. The camera obscura (one of the only three working in the UK) and the museum are fit for families with older kids. St. Vincent’s Cave, opening in the middle of the vertical, rocky hillside facing the Avon Gorge, has been a chapel since 305 AD. In the early 1800s, the owner built a tunnel to connect the observatory to the cave. The view from the opening is breathtaking and uninterrupted in both directions, with the densely forested Leigh Woods straight ahead. Entrance to the observatory is £4 ($5.25) for full-paying adults, and goes down from there.


5. St. Mary Redcliffe Church
St Mary Redcliffe

Photo: Claudio Divizia/Shutterstock


St. Mary Redcliffe Church is elegant and rich in cultural and historic value, considered a shining example of Gothic architecture. The exterior of the 800-year-old church is modest which is in contrast to the interior, that, while unadorned by paintings or frescoes, has a dramatic design. The ceiling alone is made up of impressive geometrical forms while the rest of it is long, narrow, and tall, with rib vaulting that starts from the base of the columns and accentuates the space’s verticality.


6. Leigh Woods National Nature Reserve
Leigh Woods National Nature Reserv

Photo: Kollawat Somsri/Shutterstock


Although technically not within city limits, this nature reserve is small but wild. Just on the other side of the Avon Gorge by the Clifton Suspension Bridge, it’s free to visit and easily reachable from the city center either by bus, bicycle, or on foot. The fastest and most visually pleasant routes there run along the river, and are a nice activity in and of themselves. The traces of Stokeleigh Camp, an Iron Age fort, are immersed in the thick forest, which completely covers the hilly terrain with many native and old growth trees. Standing on top of one of the derelict quarries allows for views of the gorge because of the steep slope. Just roaming around is pleasant too, since it’s never that crowded and the springtime bloom offers a mix of colors from the flowers to the light passing the tree crowns.


7. Bristol International Balloon Fiesta
Clifton Suspension Bridge with balloons

Photo: Pixel Memoirs/Shutterstock


If you plan to visit Bristol in the summer, try to time your visit with this free festival, which sees hot-air balloons from all over the world rise in the sky at the same time. Starting from the green and forested Ashton Court just southwest of the city, it hosts 100,000 people at any given time of the four-day stretch. The best part of the festival is arguably the night glow, when the balloons are inflated and glow with music after dark. During the day, balloons of different colors, patterns, and shapes float next to iconic spots such as Cabot Tower and the Clifton Suspension Bridge, offering unique views.


More like this: Copenhagen on the cheap


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Published on January 07, 2020 14:00

Best LGBTQ destinations 2020

The world made landmark advancements regarding LGBTQ rights in 2019. Taiwan became the first Asian country to legalize same-sex marriage, India ended a colonial-era law criminalizing gay sex, and Sweden passed a law banning hate speech related to gender expression. Pride events around the globe honored the 50th anniversary of Stonewall, and a reported five million people attended New York City’s parade to celebrate the birthplace of the modern LGBTQ rights movement.


But the year wasn’t all rainbows and glitter for queer folks. In May, Kenya upheld a law making gay sex punishable for to up to 14 years in prison. Same-sex sexual activity is still considered a crime in 70 countries and punishable by death in a dozen of those. The United States, usually a global leader in the fight for equality, rolled back progress concerning transgender rights; at least 22 transgender individuals were killed on American soil in 2019 alone.


Now it’s time to look at the future with 2020 vision. As LGBTQ travelers, knowing the level of safety and acceptance wherever you go is an essential part of planning a vacation. Traveling to places where you feel uncomfortable or face discrimination can be disheartening and dangerous. Most importantly, in a world where LGBTQ rights are still hot-button issues, deciding where to spend your vacation dollars can and should be a political act.


That’s why we’re celebrating cities in 2020 that are changing laws to reflect a culture of inclusivity or acting as global leaders in the fight for LGBTQ rights. We’re also throwing a nod to locations hosting the year’s most anticipated parties because, to be honest, YOLO.


Here are the top 10 LGBTQ destinations to visit in 2020.


1. Belfast, Northern Ireland

Photo: Dignity 100/Shutterstock


Get out your garter belts, girls — it’s time to ring wedding bells in Belfast. In January 2020, Northern Ireland will be the last part of the UK to legalize same-sex marriage. For all those single travelers out there, don’t get your knickers in a snit — the fun won’t stop at the wedding reception. As native drag queen Blu Hydrangea, a fan favorite on “RuPaul’s Drag Race UK,” said on Twitter, “I may be getting married, but I’m still accepting nudes.”


Postnuptial nudies aside, Northern Ireland’s capital became a tourist magnet in recent years with Game of Thrones leading the charge. The HBO megahit’s filming locations around Belfast, including the site of Winterfell, are must-sees for GoT fans. Titanic Belfast, a museum dedicated to retelling the history of the ill-fated luxury liner, is another huge draw. Add to that a burgeoning craft coffee scene (try Root & Branch) and a bunch of inventive new restaurants (try Buba for Middle Eastern-inspired cuisine), and you’ve got a bonafide traveler’s treat.


For queer-centric activities, don’t miss the 10-day Pride celebration from late July to early August. The event regularly attracts around 50,000 revelers. November is a prime time to visit for the Outburst Queer Arts Festival, which features performances and visual art by local and international queer artists. Popular bars Maverick, Union Street, and the Soviet-style Kremlin are all conveniently in the Cathedral Quarter’s snug gayborhood on Union Street.


2. Thessaloniki, Greece

Photo: Giannis Papanikos/Shutterstock


Let’s be honest — Lindsey Lohan’s recent colonization and abrupt desertion of Mykonos is a sign that Greece’s go-to gay destination is over. Luckily, Thessaloniki is primed and ready to take its place. As host of EuroPride 2020 (June 20-28), this Northern Greek town is bound to draw large crowds this summer. The event, celebrating the 51st anniversary of the Stonewall Uprising, will feature outdoor parties, concerts, art shows, and film screenings. It’s also the first Southeast European city to host the festival — a reminder of the positive social change that’s taken place in the area since the first EuroPride in 1992.


Pride isn’t the only reason to visit Thessaloniki this year. Greece’s second-largest city is famous for its eclectic architecture, including Roman ruins, Byzantine buildings, monuments built by the Ottoman Empire, and the recently constructed New Waterfront promenade that extends for two miles along the city’s coastline. With a vibrant student population and blossoming art scene, you’ll find plenty of fun things to do all year. September is a particularly inviting time for LGBTQ travelers — the Thessaloniki International LGBTIQ Film Festival takes place at the end of the month.


3. Stockholm, Sweden
Stockholm, Sweden

Photo: Adisa/Shutterstock


When it comes to LGBTQ rights, Sweden sets the gold standard. Perhaps that’s why this Scandinavian nation was named the world’s most queer-friendly country in 2019 by the LGBTQ+ Danger Index. The country has always been at the forefront of progress. In 1944, Sweden decriminalized same-sex sexual activity, and in 2009, same-sex marriage became legal. Sweden was the first country that allowed transgender people to change their legal gender after reassignment surgery, and this past year, the country passed a law banning hate speech related to gender identity and expression. The cherry on top of this equality cake? Swedes throw more Pride festivals per capita than any other country in the world.


Of all the Swedish cities to visit, stylish Stockholm should be at the top of your list (it is the birthplace of ABBA, after all). Although the LGBTQ scene isn’t nearly as robust as New York or Berlin, the city’s liberal attitude makes the entire town a queer-friendly playground. The most concentrated bit of gay-centric life is on the island of Södermalm, where you’ll find Sidetrack (Stockholm’s oldest gay bar), SLM (for leather-fetish lovers), and Patricia (a ship-turned-club space with a gay party every Sunday night). If you’re looking to live your best Dancing Queen life, visit in late July or early August when Stockholm’s population swells with international LGBTQ visitors for their five-day Pride festivities.


4. San José, Costa Rica

Photo: Luis Alvarado Alvarado/Shutterstock


With over 500,000 species of plants and animals, Costa Rica is a veritable rainbow of biodiversity. A quarter of the land is protected as national parks and wildlife reserves, and this year, the country is finally getting on board to defend its rainbow-loving citizens as well. In May 2020, Costa Rica will be the first Central American country to legalize same-sex marriage.


Seeing the country’s capital may not be the top of your to-do list with so many natural wonders to explore, but San José has a sizeable queer nightlife scene still worth checking out. Club El Teatro caters to local drag queens, La Avispa attracts both gays and lesbians, and El 13 is ideal for an alternative queer crowd. For outdoor excursions, nearby Tapanti National Park offers access to natural hot springs, panoramic forest views, and outdoor adventures like hiking and white-water rafting. Irazú, an active volcano with views of both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, is another must-see site only an hour-and-a-half drive away.


5. Tel Aviv, Israel

Photo: Boris-B/Shutterstock


Although Tel Aviv isn’t delivering groundbreaking LGBTQ news in 2020, it remains an important liberal bastion in a region of the world where living out and proud can be dangerous. In its four neighboring countries — Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt — LGBTQ individuals face persecution and legal retaliation. Nearby Saudi Arabia follows Sharia law, which makes same-sex activity punishable by death. But in Tel Aviv, where an estimated 25 percent of the population identifies as homosexual, the law “love who you love” reigns supreme.


Tel Aviv has a little bit of everything — the world’s biggest collection of Bauhaus architecture, nine miles of pristine Mediterranean beaches, and a nightlife scene rivaled only by the mayhem of Manhattan (the other city that never sleeps). The city is like an all-you-can-eat mezze platter of LGBTQ activities throughout the year, and the annual Pride festival (June 7-13) turns Tel Aviv into a non-stop international queer party all week long. In 2019, the festival welcomed over 250,000 participants. Pride isn’t only a celebration but a proclamation of love, understanding, and freedom. Tel Aviv — meaning “Hill of Spring” in Hebrew — is a symbol of hope for LGBTQ people both in the Middle East and around the world.


6. Taipei, Taiwan

Photo: weniliou/Shutterstock


Many people considered Taipei the queer capital of Asia long before Taiwan legalized same-sex marriage in 2019, but the new bill of equality solidifies its top ranking. The city’s annual Pride celebration in October is the largest in Asia and one of the most well-attended in the world. Last year’s event attracted around 200,000 people. A diverse set of LGBTQ businesses caters to the community year-round, too. You’ll find the majority along Red House Bar Street, a bustling commercial strip with LGBTQ watering holes, book stores, cafes, and clubs.


Unlike most major cities, Taipei’s LGBTQ culture extends beyond the bar scene and into a sector where the queer community is mostly absent — religion. Every year, around 9,000 queer people make the pilgrimage to the Wei-ming Temple and pray to Tu’er Shan, the Rabbit God of homosexual love. The Taoist temple was founded in 2006 by Lu Wei-ming in the Yonghe District of New Taipei City and holds the distinction of being the only gay religious shrine in the world. Regardless of your belief in the almighty Rabbit, chances are this is a great spot to browse Grindr — where there are open hearts, there are open apps. Coincidentally, Taipei was the first Asian city to open up a headquarters for the popular online dating platform in 2018.


7. Montevideo, Uruguay
Uruguay

Photo: Birdiegal/Shutterstock


In 2019, Montevideo was ranked the city with the highest quality of living in South America. For LGBTQ folks, it’s easy to see why. Uruguay is the most progressive country on the continent. Same-sex marriage became legal in 2013. In 2018, the government gave trans people the right to change their name without seeking approval from a judge. Gender confirmation surgery is free for residents, as are necessary hormone treatments. The country’s liberal laws don’t end with LGBTQ rights, either — Uruguay was the first city in the world to legalize recreational marijuana.


With an abundance of Art Deco architecture, neoclassical facades, and modern skyscrapers overlooking the city’s glittering coastline, Montevideo is a mix of Miami glitz and Meditteranean glam. There’s no better way to mingle with the laid-back locals than by strolling along the 14-mile Rambla, a beachside promenade with expansive city views. For a taste of queer culture, visit the city’s Pride festival, known as “Marcha por la Diversidad,” which takes place the last Friday of September and regularly attracts around 30,000 people. You can wet your whistle year-round at gay-favorites Chains Pub, Il Tempo, and Cain Club.


8. Vienna, Austria
Vienna, Austria

Photo: V_E/Shutterstock


Vienna is commonly known for its imperial architecture, cozy coffee houses, classical music offerings — and most recently — same-sex pedestrian traffic lights. Authorities installed red and green lights featuring couples holding hands to celebrate hosting the 2015 Eurovision contest. Their overwhelming popularity swayed local officials to keep the lights as they were long after Eurovision ended. It took the rest of Austria a little longer to get on board with such a show of equality. Same-sex marriage was legalized in 2019, making 2020 a particularly enticing time to visit the country’s capital.


This year also marks the 25th anniversary of the annual Rainbow Parade, which will make its way around the city’s Ringstrasse on June 13th. If Vienna Pride (June 1-14) isn’t in the cards, immerse yourself in local Viennese culture by attending one of the city’s iconic balls. Think less Pose and more Mozart: Vienna’s ball culture dates back to the 17th century when the local elite would get dolled up in their most extravagant clothes to waltz the night away. Today, the city throws around 400 parties throughout the ball season, with three queer events you shouldn’t miss. Rainbow Ball (January 25), KreativBall (January 31), and Diversity ball (May) all invite the LGBTQ community to get decked out in their formal attire and party like it’s 1699.


9. Toronto, Canada

Photo: Shawn Goldberg/Shutterstock


According to 2019’s World Happiness Report, Canada is the ninth happiest nation in the world, and there’s no doubt this is partially thanks to the country’s inclusive lawmaking. In 2005, Canada became the first country outside Europe to legalize same-sex marriage. More recently, Justin Trudeau directed the Canadian government to ban conversion therapy. The law will hopefully pass later this year, making Canada the first North American country to criminalize the practice.


Regularly referred to as the most multicultural city in the world, Toronto’s attitude of acceptance caters to the country’s mightiest queer community. The city isn’t unlike New York — there’s world-class theater, high-end shopping, impeccable street art, and a food scene to please any palette. The only difference is that Toronto’s streets are cleaner and the locals friendlier. No wonder Canuckleheads are so darn happy. The Gay Village at Church and Wellesley is the center of LGBTQ life (check out popular bars like Woody’s and fetish-friendly Black Eagle) though you’ll find the community all over town. In summer, queer crowds converge at Trinity Bellwoods Park in the artsy-alternative Queen West neighborhood; Hanlan’s Point, a clothing-optional beach on Toronto Island, gets packed with LGBTQ folks, as well. Pride celebrations take place throughout June, with an official festival from June 26-28.


10. Milan, Italy
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the most popular shopping areas in Milan

Photo: Olgysha/Shutterstock


IGLTA, the International LGBTQ+ Travel Association, will descend on Italy’s second-largest city this year from May 6-9 for their 37th annual global convention. The event brings together members of the LGBTQ travel industry to network and educate themselves on new travel trends. One of the most critical takeaways this year? Milan is quickly becoming Italy’s top destination for queer travelers.


Milan’s LGBTQ nightlife is mostly located on Via Lecco, lovingly known as “gay street,” but that’s not the only place you’ll find queer culture. From Renaissance art to fashion runways, the city has a little LGBTQ flavor sprinkled around every gothic cathedral and modern edifice. Check out Da Vinci’s OG gay dinner party painting, “The Last Supper,” or the work of local gay clothing designers Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana for proof. For fans of the book-turned-blockbuster


More like this: The ultimate LGBTQ guide to Amsterdam


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Published on January 07, 2020 13:30

Breweries in Middle East

The Middle East is almost never the first region people think of when they hear the word “beer,” but that might be changing as craft breweries find an increasing market among locals and foreigners alike. In a way, it’s a long overdue homecoming for the beloved beverage.


Ironically, it wasn’t in my hometown of Cincinnati that I learned to appreciate beer, even though it’s home to dozens of breweries and one of America’s largest Oktoberfest celebrations. Rather, it was during my time in the Middle East that I first developed a taste for it — a revelation that shocks almost everyone who hears it.


The morning after my last exam as a freshman in college, I boarded a flight to Cairo and spent three months exploring Nile country, immersing myself in the language and eating the molokhia. I was drawn back to the region every summer after that. I lived with a Bedouin family in Jordan to gather linguistic data for my thesis, and I wandered the Old City in Jerusalem when I wasn’t busy memorizing irregular Arabic verbs. But as graduation approached, I still craved more. After a sweltering summer vacation in Upper Egypt and a quick visit to my old host family in Jordan, I found myself once again in Holy City, this time for a full calendar year working on a master’s degree. Once I graduated, I worked in Jordan for a year and a half, trying every type of food and drink available — including beer.


As the burgeoning beer scene in the Levant continues to spread through word of mouth and exports, associating craft beer with the Middle East may no longer be cause for surprise.


1. Jordan: Carakale
Carakale Brewing Company beer

Photo: Carakale Brewing Company/Facebook


It’s not everyday you get to imbibe history, but in Jordan, the air, land, and beer are saturated with it. Looking out over the village of Fuheis from Carakale’s porch, my gaze was met by mountains covered with patches of stubborn scrub and olive trees that had endured the final month of a hot, dry summer. Everything looked so old and sleepy, almost Biblical, throwing into sharp contrast the novelty of enjoying a craft beer while listening to Autostrad, a popular band from the capital.


Carakale, Jordan’s first true microbrewery, opened in 2013. One of its biggest claims to fame is Dead Sea-rious, a gose made with salt from the Dead Sea. Founder Yazan Karadsheh, an engineer who quit his lucrative job at Halliburton, completed the UC Davis Master Brewers Program, and then worked at a microbrewery in Colorado, has not had an easy go of it. He navigated near-impenetrable bureaucracy, constantly evolving tax laws, and the delicate subject of alcohol production and consumption in a majority Muslim country to open his brewery. Karadsheh and his Carakale team have so far dealt deftly with these issues through a combination of patience, persistence, and tact.


Carakale’s name and logo are inspired by the caracal, a wild feline native to Jordan whose distinguishing characteristic is the exaggerated tufts of black fur extending from the tips of its ears. There’s a possible second meaning to the appellation that locals are more likely to catch. Carakale sounds like a portmanteau of “Karak” and “ale.” Karak is the region many of Jordan’s Christian bedouins who now live in Madaba — including the Karadsheh tribe from which the owner hails — immigrated from in 1890.


Christians are the only community in Jordan permitted to own liquor stores, but Carakale is open for anyone who wants to enjoy a beverage. Today, the brewery makes a blonde ale, pale ale, winter ale, a mocha stout, and, of course, the citrusy and slightly salty Dead Sea-rious.


2. Palestine: Taybeh
Taybeh Beer

Photo: Madees Khoury‎/Taybeh Beer/Facebook


The West Bank not only has its own microbrewery, but it has what is arguably the oldest one in the Middle East. Founded in 1994, Taybeh Brewing Company is a craft beer maker from the eponymous Palestinian village — the last all-Christian community in the West Bank — located fewer than 10 miles north of Jerusalem.


Taybeh is Arabic for “good” or “delicious,” an apt adjective for the beer inside the bottles. For years, Taybeh Brewery has been producing German- and Belgian-style beers that are on par with, if not better than, many of the craft brews in Europe and the United States. The brewery also makes a special Palestinian spice lager that has hints of locally grown sage, za’atar, and anise.


Inventive brews like the latter, as well as the tried-and-true staples, have fueled Taybeh’s fame internationally. The beer is so enticing that some 16,000 people from all over the world descend on the village of less than 1,500 for the annual Oktoberfest celebration. It’s sold year-round in Denmark, France, Italy, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, and the US. Selling in the US isn’t always easy. Due to labeling laws the Khourys are not allowed to use “Made in Palestine” on the bottles sent to the US. Instead, the label reads, “Product of the West Bank.”


Nevertheless, it was important for the owners, Nadim and David Khoury, to get their brews to the States — especially Massachusetts. Nadim lived in the Boston area for almost 15 years, and his son, Canaan, studied at Harvard. Fittingly, out of all the states with stores that sell Taybeh, Massachusetts has the most.


The Khourys face challenges like a dwindling population and a total lack of ports or airports. There’s ample reason for hope, though. Taybeh’s brand is well-established, and the founder’s son, after graduating from Harvard, returned to the family business.


3. Lebanon: 961 Beer
961 Beer

Photo: 961 Beer/Facebook


Once called the Paris of the Middle East, Beirut, exhausted but not defeated by Lebanon’s decades-long civil war, has retained its charm, and its inhabitants have retained their love of fine wining and dining. The streets are lined with an impressive array of swanky five-star hotel bars with long cocktail lists, hole-in-the-wall cafés with cheap beers and the popular anise-flavored liquor arak, and hip bars that college students and young adults flock to after hours. Beirut isn’t just the capital of Lebanon — it’s a capital of Arab youth culture, a hub for innovation in art, music, food, and drink.


Until recently, however, there weren’t any locally brewed beers worth mentioning. That changed during the 2006 war with Israel.


If a country at war doesn’t seem like an ideal incubator for a new business, much less a new microbrewery, it wasn’t. Gunfire, blockades, power outages, and explosions were regular occurrences. The founder of 961 Beer, Mazen Hajjar, nevertheless decided to start brewing from his home. (The name 961 sends a powerful message of unity: It’s the country code for Lebanon and is shared by all inhabitants regardless of background.) His creations sold so well that he was able to rapidly grow his consumer base.


During the early days, the brewery’s offerings were limited. Today, 961 offers an American IPA, a lager, a porter, a red ale, a witbier, and a Lebanese Pale Ale. The latter is brewed with thyme, sumac, chamomile, sage, anise, and mint — all spices commonly found in the country’s markets. 961 is distributed in the US and parts of Europe, Asia, Africa, and New Zealand.


4. Syria: Afamia
Great Colonnade at Apamea

Photo: Nick Brundle/Shutterstock


In a country embroiled in conflict, it might seem somewhat counterintuitive that a microbrewery has survived what ancient ruins like those at Palmyra have not. Yet the story of Syria’s Afamia Beer in the suburbs of Damascus is full of tragic ironies and improbable triumphs.


As with Carkale, Taybeh, and 961, everything is in the name. Afamia is the Arabic pronunciation of Apamea, an ancient city on the bank of the Orontes River, about 35 miles north of modern-day Hama. Temples, ceramic-filled churches, baths, residences, shops, amphitheaters, and more have been unearthed at Apamea.


Afamia beer appeared on the scene at the most inopportune moment. Production at the brewery was set to start in 2010, but the Arab Spring reached Syria in 2011, which led to the civil war still being fought today. Afamia founder Aamer Rustum had to press pause. By 2017, though, things around the capital had calmed down enough for Aamer to try again.


At the time of writing, Afamia only offers two beers that are sold in bars around Syria. It’s a new beginning for a region with a long brewery history. This is, after all, the land that gave the world the 4,500-year old Ebla tablets, which document the variety of beers that were produced in the ancient city.


More like this: Your guide to drinking laws in the Arab world


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Published on January 07, 2020 12:30

Best hotel rewards programs for 2020

With hotel chains merging all the time, and many chains with multiple brands you never knew fell under their portfolio, the relative value in hotel rewards programs varies widely. And that relative value is highly dependent on where and how much you travel.


To break down and hopefully simplify hotel rewards programs, WalletHub conducted a massive study on programs among the largest hotel chains in the world, an annual undertaking examining over 20 factors, from the cash value of points to where you can use them, to find out who best treats their frequent guests. We, being the scrupulous skeptics that we are, analyzed the whole thing and found the best programs for different types of travelers.


First off, are hotel rewards programs worth having?

That advice can really extend to any hotel loyalty program, as unlike with airlines you may find huge price disparities, and the money you save there may be greater than any perceived benefit from hotel loyalty.


“A free night in a hotel is attractive, but it…can entail a substantial commitment from the consumer over a significant period of time,” said Professor Sung H. Ham in commentary attached to the study, who teaches marketing in the business school at George Washington University. “Consumers may still overvalue the rewards that can be obtained from being loyal, (as they) are less likely to engage in price comparisons and may ultimately end up paying more for each stay to earn the free night reward.”


He added that consumers who don’t belong to a loyalty program are far more likely to aggressively comparison shop, and even with free stays and perks factored in, they often spend less overall than members of loyalty programs.


“The accumulated savings from engaging in price comparisons could allow disloyal consumers to pay for the free night — and possibly more — themselves,” he said.


That’s not to say you won’t find value in a hotel loyalty rewards program. It’s just to say that you need to find the one that fits your travel style best. Many are most beneficial to people like business travelers, who aren’t picking up the bill themselves. Still, membership doesn’t cost anything and never hurts to have. At the very least, you’ll get a hearty “thank you for being a member!” from whoever checks you in.


The best hotel rewards programs
Hotel room

Photo: fizkes/Shutterstock


Best overall program for any traveler: Wyndham Rewards

Major brands: Days Inn; Howard Johnson; Microtel; Ramada; Travelodge; Super 8; Hawthorn Suites; all Wyndham brands

Pros: Best dollar value per $100 spent, room redemption availability

Cons: Limited international options, points expire quickly

Rewards value per $100 spent: $13.46


For the fifth year in a row, Wyndham topped WalletHub’s study, offering the best value to heavy, moderate, and even light travelers. A big reason for this is the sheer volume of hotels in the Wyndham portfolio, covering over 9,000 properties across 20 brands. One huge advantage Wyndham offers is the ability to rack up the same number of rewards points no matter where you stay, so a night at the Microtel rates you the same points as at a Wyndham Grand resort. This may not be as attractive for big spenders, but if you frequent mid-range and budget hotels you can earn nights in nicer places pretty easily.


Another plus for Wyndham is that the points purchased are only marked up about 7 percent, the second-lowest of any chain. Points expire in 18 months, though, so if you’re not traveling a good amount every year this might not be the program for you.


Best for light-to-moderate international travelers: Radisson

Major brands: All Radisson brands; Park Plaza; Country Inn & Suites

Pros: Lots of international options, rewards relatively quickly

Cons: High markup on points purchased

Rewards value per $100 spent: $12.50


Radisson placed a solid second in WalletHub’s study, with the second-highest value across all types of travelers and lots of options if you’re looking to stay abroad. Points last a full 24 months with Radisson too, so if you don’t travel a ton you may still have a chance to cash in some rewards. If you do travel a lot, Radisson is also among the easiest chains to achieve top membership status, with only 60 nights or 30 stays rating you a Platinum membership. You’ll find over 1,400 hotels at which to use that status, and you’ll get the same rewards across all brands, with no brand exclusions.


Best for infrequent travelers who don’t want points to expire: Best Western Rewards

Major brands: All Best Western and SureStay brands; Sadie; Vib; Glo

Pros: Points don’t expire, best options for redemption

Cons: Blackout dates, high markup on points purchased

Rewards value per $100 spent: $9.75


You could literally have stayed in a Best Western once in 2012, not looked at a Best Western since, and still have rewards points in your account. The non-expiring points are the biggest selling feature of this 4,500-hotel chain, spanning 13 brands in over 100 countries. Another interesting feature Best Western offers is matching your status with any other hotel chain, so if you’re elite with another hotelier you’ll get all the bonus points, upgrades, and free Wi-Fi connections at Best Western too. Not that this program’s elite status is all that hard to achieve: You’ll get Gold status after just 10 nights or seven qualifying stays.


Best for frequent international travelers: Marriott Bonvoy

Major brands: AC; Aloft; Autograph Collection; Fairfield Inn & Suites; Moxy; Residence Inn; Renaissance; Ritz-Carlton; Sheraton; St. Regis; Springhill Suites; W; Westin; all Marriott brands

Pros: Massive collection of properties both international and domestic

Cons: Some brands do not participate in rewards nights, points differ depending on brand

Rewards value per $100 spent: $10.89


Bonvoy, the new-ish love child of the Marriott-Starwood merger, covers the largest hotel chain in the world, and if you want to redeem your points almost anywhere in the world, this is the program for you. That said, covering such a breadth of hotels carries with it a lot of caveats, the most annoying of which is the inability to redeem those points with certain brands. Understandable that piling up points at the Fairfield Inn shouldn’t necessarily rate you free nights at the Ritz, but aggravating nonetheless. Points accrue differently depending on where you stay too, so be sure to consider that when booking.


Best for budget travelers who want the most for their money: Choice Privileges

Major brands: Clarion; EconoLodge; Rodeway Inn; Quality Inn; Sleep Inn; Comfort Inn

Pros: Low markup on points purchased, large number of domestic hotels

Cons: Few hotels near international cities, not many transfer partners

Rewards value per $100 spent: $11.38


Choice was the only chain in the study to offer more rewards in 2019 than it did in 2018, and interestingly offers a better value for light travelers than it does moderate. It also offers the third-best value per dollar spent, and since it’s the lowest-cost hotel chain in the study, that means you’ll get the most here by spending the least. Globetrotters may not see much value in Choice, though, as international destinations are limited, and you won’t be able to use your points with nearly the number of airline partners you might with other programs.


Best if you want to use your points for other things: IHG Rewards Club

Major brands: InterContinental; Indigo; Holiday Inn; Kimpton; Crowne Plaza

Pros: Lots of airline partnerships

Cons: Value of rewards, big markup on points purchased

Rewards value per $100 spent: $7.48


There’s a good reason IHG has the largest number of airline and shopping partners of anyone in the study — the points at the hotels themselves are pretty much worthless. IHG rated dead-last in rewards per dollar spent, and marks up its purchased points a whopping 32 percent. So even though you’d be able to redeem those points with dozens of airlines across the world, do some calculations as to how much they’re actually worth before you buy. This might be a good move for frequent fliers, but otherwise, the program doesn’t offer much.


More like this: Sign up for these programs to make travel easier in 2020


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Published on January 07, 2020 11:10

Rome bans souvenir stands

Rome is one of Europe’s most beautiful and historically significant cities and as such, it attracts hordes of visitors. But with great tourism appeal comes an abundance of souvenir stands.


These souvenir stalls are often cited as eyesores by residents and even diminish the visitor experience, especially when they’re located directly in front of historic monuments. That’s why Virginia Raggi, Rome’s mayor, announced that 17 stalls located around the city’s main tourist sites will be closed down, in order to protect Rome’s heritage and improve safety in the vicinity of heavily trafficked areas.


Starting on January 1, stalls selling key rings, fridge magnets, decorative plates, figurines, and other souvenirs were removed from areas like the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Pantheon, Colosseum, and Piazza Navona. Vans selling visitor snacks near the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus were also removed.


“For years,” said Raggi, “the monuments of the city have been tarnished by vendors who sell drinks, panini, and trinkets in front of Rome’s architectural jewels. This is no longer tolerable.”


This ban is part of a series of steps to clean up the city’s historic areas. Recent bans have also been enacted to prevent people from sitting on the Spanish Steps, eating certain foods by monuments, and walking around shirtless.


More like this: 7 underrated churches in Rome that you need to check out


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Published on January 07, 2020 10:00

Noodle soups around the world

Nothing wards off the winter chill like a bowl of hearty, piping hot soup. After the rich and filling dishes of the holiday season, and many months of pumpkin-spiced everything, however, it can be hard to get excited about seasonal staples like butternut squash bisque or beef stew. Enter noodle soup, the perfect combination of delicate, savory broth and long, slurpy noodles, plus any number of toppings under the sun. It’s not news that the world loves noodle soup, but ramen and pho seem to be hogging the spotlight. Tasty as they are, they’re just two examples of recipes worth hunting down, or even trying to make at home. Here are seven of our favorites.


1. Laksa
Laksa

Photo: Tommy Brtek/Shutterstock


Laksa is a Southeast Asian soup made from noodles, typically vermicelli or thicker rice noodles, seafood, and coconut curry. Another version, asam laksa, uses a thinner broth made from fish stock and tamarind. Chicken can be served alongside, or in place of, seafood like prawns, squid, and scallops, and you may see other proteins like pork or beef depending on the religious dietary restrictions of the region you’re in. Outside of Malaysia, laksa is a staple of Singaporean and Indonesian cuisine, and it’s also common in southern Thailand.


2. Saimin
Saimin

Photo: designs by Jack/Shutterstock


Saimin is so popular in Hawaii that it was added to local McDonald’s menus in the late 1960s. It has both pan-Asian and Polynesian influences, combining a light dashi stock and ramen-style noodles with spam or pork preparations like char siu, kamaboko fish cakes, and a dash of green onions. You may also see other meat or seafood added, as well as wontons, nori, and egg. Even the noodles can be swapped out for udon or something comparable, but dried shrimp is non-negotiable to achieve the salty, savory, and delicious broth base.


3. Janchi guksu
Korean anniversary noodle soup, Janchi Guksu

Photo: Aris Setya/Shutterstock


Janchi guksu is a Korean noodle soup traditionally eaten on celebratory occasions. Translated, the name of the dish means “feast” or “festivity” noodles. In Korean culture, long noodles symbolize longevity, explaining the dish’s place in wedding and birthday ceremonies. Janchi guksu is made with thin wheat noodles called somyeon, anchovy broth, and simple garnishes like scallions and julienned carrots and zucchini. Beef broth is sometimes substituted. For a finishing touch, janchi guksu is topped with sesame oil, soy sauce, and chili flakes.


4. Soto ayam
Soto

Photo: Aris Setya/Shutterstock


Soto ayam is Indonesia’s answer to chicken noodle soup. Rather than thick wheat pasta, it’s traditionally made with vermicelli noodles, and the broth takes on a distinctive yellow color from the addition of turmeric. Extras range from hard-boiled eggs and rice cake patties to fried shallots and various veggies. In one version, called soto ayam ambengan, you’ll see the soup sprinkled with koya, a powder made from prawn crackers and fried garlic. As with most Indonesian dishes, sambal oelek chili sauce is a welcome side.


5. Mohinga
Mohinga

Photo: Apik/Shutterstock


A fish and rice-noodle soup, mohinga is often regarded as Myanmar’s national dish. It’s sold everywhere, from street stalls to finer restaurants, and can be eaten any time of day though most consider it the Burmese breakfast of champions. Either chickpea flour or toasted rice is used to thicken the broth, which gets its richness from fish paste and its brightness from lemongrass. Catfish is then added to the mix, and the whole thing is topped with lime, cilantro, chilis, and sometimes fish cakes or chickpea fritters. Other additions, like hard-boiled eggs, also make an appearance from time to time.


6. Khao poon
Photo: <a href=

Photo: Sarina P/Shutterstock


Khao poon is a rice-noodle soup from Laos that’s made with chicken, pork, or fish that’s been either shredded or pounded. On top, you’ll find a hefty handful of veggies and herbs: shredded cabbage, carrots, bean sprouts, mint, and cilantro to name a few. Much of the punchy flavor comes from regional aromatics like galangal, garlic, and chili, as well as staple ingredients like fish sauce and kaffir lime leaves. Some versions also add coconut milk. Other variations exist, as well, which is no surprise given how far khao poon has traveled across Southeast Asia and beyond.


7. Capellini en brodo
dried pasta

Photo: Brian Yarvin/Shutterstock


Capellini are skinny Italian noodles a little thicker than angel hair pasta. Capellini en brodo translates to “capellini in broth,” a dish that can be made with virtually any pasta. But for slurpy satisfaction, capellini noodles are your best bet. As they soak in the rich, yet delicate, chicken broth, the pasta acts like a flavor sponge, and the broth gets deliciously thick and starchy. Top it off with parmesan cheese, parsley, or even an egg yolk if that’s your thing.


More like this: Beyond the basics: How to order pho like a pro


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Published on January 07, 2020 09:30

Best dinner theaters in the US

“Dinner and a show” has come to mean many things, from eating a microwave dinner while watching Netflix to witnessing a couple’s very public breakup at the table next to you at a restaurant. The tradition of the original “dinner and a show” that began in the 1950s and peaked in popularity in the 1960s-1980s has fallen out of fashion, but it’s not lost — there are still dinner theaters out there, where you can enjoy food and drinks while watching a stage production. Whether it’s a specialized menu that complements the performance on stage or the actors themselves serving as waiters between acts, dinner theaters are not just an antiquated form of entertainment but a quirky alternative to your typical Friday night out. These are the seven dinner theaters across the US you need to check out for your next date night.


1. The Barn Dinner Theatre — Greensboro, North Carolina
Barn Dinner Theatre

Photo: Barn Dinner Theatre/Facebook


Since dinner theaters are an undeniably vintage experience, you might as well start with the oldest operating theater in the country. The Barn Dinner Theatre opened in Greensboro, North Carolina, in 1964, offering not only Broadway-style shows, but also a buffet of classic Southern foods including fried okra, honey glazed ham, and banana pudding. Originally, the cast also served as the wait staff, and resided above the theater in small living quarters. Now these living quarters function as the box office and dressing rooms. Check out the full slate of 2020 shows on the theater’s calendar.


Where: 120 StageCoach Trail, Greensboro, NC 27409


2. Jackson Hole Playhouse — Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Jackson Hole Playhouse

Photo: Jackson Hole Playhouse/Facebook


Go to Jackson Hole for the stunning scenery and national parks, but stay for the Americana. The Jackson Hole Playhouse is a classic American experience in more ways than one. Not only is it a vintage US dinner theater experience, but dinner is served before the show in a saloon clad in Wild West decor. You’ll get to know the performers before the curtain even rises because they are also your servers and they keep you entertained while you sip and chew by singing throughout dinner. Once the meal portion of the night is finished, you’ll move into the theater for the performance, usually with a Western theme. The theater itself was originally built in 1915 as a livery stable; it has functioned as a theater since 1948.


Where: 45 West Deloney Avenue, Jackson, WY 83001


3. Candlelight Pavilion Dinner Theater — Claremont, California
dinner theater

Photo: Candlelight Pavilion/Facebook


Dinner theaters are often thought of as a novelty that don’t always attract the most top-tier talent, but the Candlelight Pavilion Dinner Theater in Claremont, California, proves that preconceived idea wrong. Given its close proximity to Los Angeles, the Candlelight regularly features talented performers. All the shows are Tony Award winners, so you’re sure to find one of your favorite ones on the schedule. Currently in its 33rd year, the theater has run over 200 shows and continues to be a unique entertainment alternative for crowds coming from LA and beyond.


Where: 455 West Foothill Boulevard, Claremont, CA 91711


4. Chaffin’s Barn Theatre — Nashville, Tennessee
Chaffin's Barn

Photo: Chaffin’s Barn Theatre/Facebook


Nashville is no stranger to entertainment, so it’s hardly surprising that it’s home to one of the best dinner theaters in the country. Chaffin’s Barn Dinner Theatre is a sister-location of the Barn theater in Greensboro. Once totalling 27 locations, Chaffin’s is the only remaining theater in the Barn family, and it’s the second-oldest dinner theater in the US, dating back to 1967. Chaffin’s had been owned by the Chaffin family for 50 years, until their retirement in 2017, and though it’s now under new ownership it still retains its original charm. Like the Barn in Greensboro, guests are able to choose from a buffet that changes depending on the season and the show.


Where: 8204 TN-100, Nashville, TN 37221


5. Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre — Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre

Photo: Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre/Facebook


For many, a night at the dinner theater reminds them of the good old days. At the Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, those good old days are the 1700s. The theater is located in Amish country, but the shows themselves are modern Broadway musical favorites like Guys and Dolls and Saturday Night Fever. Dinner consists of a buffet filled with local choices, including some Amish specialties like shoofly pie. And don’t worry, it might be located right in the heart of Amish country, but the theater has a luxurious and comfortable interior with all the modern amenities.


Where: 510 Centerville Road, Lancaster, PA 17601


6. Stone’s Throw Dinner Theatre — Carthage, Missouri
Stone's Throw Dinner Theatre

Photo: Stone’s Throw Dinner Theatre/Facebook


When it comes to a dinner theater that’s steeped in the local community, it doesn’t get better than the Stone’s Throw Dinner Theatre in Carthage, Missouri. Stone’s Throw specializes in comedies and children’s shows, and thanks to its small space, is one of the most intimate dinner theaters you’ll find. The theater is a nonprofit run by volunteers, with funds going toward supporting the performing arts in southwest Missouri. A great alternative to larger theaters, where the audience feels rather distant from the performance, at the cozy Stone’s Throw you’ll feel immersed in the action on stage. And true to the dinner theater tradition, meal courses are served between acts, so you’ll never worry about going hungry mid-show.


Where: 2466 Old 66 Boulevard, Carthage, MO 64836


7. Chanhassen Dinner Theatres — Chanhassen, Minnesota
Chanhassen Dinner Theatres

Photo: Chanhassen Dinner Theatres/Facebook


In stark contrast to the intimate setting of the Stone’s Throw Theatre, the Chanhassen in Chanhassen, Minnesota, is the largest dinner theater complex in the country. With three theaters totalling 90,000 square feet, there are separate theaters for dramas and children’s shows, as well as several reception rooms for parties. The theaters also host special presentations, a comedy club, and a concert series. Consistent with the size of the venue, the food menu is extensive, with a variety of entrees, appetizers, desserts, and wines.


Where: 501 West 78th Street, Chanhassen, MN 55317


More like this: The 15 coolest drive-in theaters in the US


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Published on January 07, 2020 08:30

How to take your dog backpacking

Adventure outdoors has a way of bringing people together, and for many dog owners, it’s also a way to bond with their four-legged friend. Few people know that bond quite as well as Nicole Handel and her trail dog Bear.


Handel was never the outdoorsy type, but after inheriting Bear in the aftermath of a breakup she realized that, like most dogs, the active German Shepherd loved spending time outside. The two began hiking regularly in the woods and mountains near their home in Vermont, and what started as a way for them to get some exercise together quickly turned into a deeper connection.


They began a tradition of “summit hugs” when they got to the top of the mountain; Handel would kneel down to pet Bear and ask him for “hugs,” and when he put his paws on her shoulders she would scoop him up for a big “bear” hug. A photo of the two embracing atop Mount Mansfield went viral in 2017 and quickly made the duo Instagram stars.


Backpacking with a dog

Photo: nicolehandel/Instagram


From Mount Washington to Moab, Handel’s feed shows her doing everything from hiking and climbing to mountain biking and splitboarding, all with Bear by her side. In addition to all this, they go on one big backpacking trip per year and anywhere from five to 10 shorter jaunts, covering every type of terrain from deserts and canyons to rainforests and alpine meadows. If anyone knows the ins and outs of taking a dog out on the trail, it’s Nicole Handel. So, we caught up with her to get her top tips for backpacking with your favorite four-legged friend.


First things first, make sure they’re ready for the trail.
Backpacking with a dog

Photo: kammitchellphoto /Instagram


Before you pull up to the trailhead, you’re going to need to make sure your pup is up for the challenge. Backpacking is taxing for humans and canines alike, and you don’t want your dog to bite off more than they can chew. Handel recommends checking with your vet before anything else. “Your vet can assess your dog’s fitness level by feeling their legs, hips, and paws, and also recommend a suitable distance to start with depending on your dog’s breed, age, and ability,” she says.


From there she recommends starting small and easy and keeping an eye on how they are managing. “Do a mile on soft dirt and pay attention to whether they are keeping up or not, if they are lifting up their paws in pain, limping,” or showing any other signs of difficulty. This is especially important for older dogs or smaller breeds. And if you have a puppy, make sure you ease into things and follow your vet’s advice in terms of when to get started hiking. Although Handel carried Bear in her arms on some early hikes, he did not start fully hiking on his own until he was about eight months old. It may be exciting to have a new hiking companion but always make sure your vet has cleared your dog for activity before you get them on the trail.


Get the right gear.

Gearing up looks a little different when you’re bringing z dog along and careful planning at home can save you a lot of headaches on the trail. You’ll be carrying everything you need on your back, and your dog should do the same. Handel has two different sized Ruffwear dog packs for Bear, depending on the length of their trip and the time of year. Inside the pack Bear carries water, food, a collapsible bowl, an LED collar to wear at night, a PackTowl to clean mud or water off his paws before coming into the tent, poop bags, and a small Adventure Medical Kits dog first-aid kit. In addition to that, Handel carries a Whyld River sleeping pad for Bear, which “gives him a soft, comfortable surface to sleep on in the tent, as well as insulates from cold when we winter camp,” she says.


Know when to leash your dog.
Backpacking with a dog

Photo: kammitchellphoto /Instagram


Now that your pup is outfitted with all the gear they’ll need to conquer the backcountry, it’s time to get out there and start exploring, right? Not so fast. Before you step foot on the trail it’s important to know the proper etiquette for bringing your dog along and to make sure that your dog is adequately trained to handle whatever you may encounter. For Handel, this is the most important aspect of hiking or backpacking with your dog.


First off, the age-old question: do I leash my dog or not? For Handel it’s simple. “My general rule of thumb is this: If your dog does not have perfect recall — and I mean that they will come back to you immediately no matter what they’re doing — they should not be off-leash while hiking or camping, ever,” she says. “This is for your own dog’s safety, as well as to respect others who may be on the trail.” She stresses that no matter how friendly or harmless your dog may be, you never know how other dogs or people will react, and it’s important to respect everyone else’s experience on the trail.


For example, on a recent trail run Bear startled a woman heading in the opposite direction. “She saw Bear and said that she is terrified of large dogs and is prone to panic attacks,” says Handel. “Luckily, Bear is trained to always heel to my side unless given permission to roam around me, so we asked her if we could pass by and we did, with no issue. But if Bear didn’t have that training and etiquette, he’d likely have really scared that woman.”


So if you would like to keep your dog off-leash, take the time to train and discipline your dog. Handel stresses that this doesn’t have to be all hard work and toil. “I think that more folks could benefit from using hiking and backpacking as a place to have some fun and do a bit of training with their dogs,” she says.


“I love to work the same obedience commands with Bear that I would do at home, but on the trail.” For example, at home, Handel uses the “place” command to get Bear to go to his dog bed — his own place in the house. On the trail, Handel will keep Bear close by pointing to a tree stump or large rock and using the “place” command. “He hops up excitedly, and gets the benefit of mental stimulation and feeling like he has a ‘job’ while we are out having fun,” she says. “The same can be said of having your dog heel or having your dog sit and stay while you hike ahead. Make it fun but make it functional, too!”


Whether your dog is properly trained to stay off-leash or not, be sure to check the pet regulations for wherever you’re visiting. In many places, dogs are required to be on-leash at all times, and in other spots, dogs are prohibited altogether, so make sure you’re up to date with regulations before planning your trip.


Pick up after your dog.
Backpacking with a dog

Photo: nicolehandel/Instagram


Spend enough time backpacking and at some point, you’re likely to come across someone else’s waste — unfortunately it’s an aspect of trail etiquette that many humans have yet to master for themselves, let alone for their dogs. Disposing of waste is important not just for health and hygiene, but also to preserve the trail for others. Failure to do so not only ruins the experience for everyone else, but it also jeopardizes future access for dogs. “Plenty of once-dog-friendly places, like local ski mountains, have shut down access to dogs because of waste and plastic being left behind,” says Handel. “If you are in the wilderness and are digging a hole for your own waste, you should be doing the same for your dog; if you are packing out your waste, you should pack out your dog’s waste. Simple.”


Prepare for emergencies.

While there’s a lot of fun to be had exploring remote backcountry, at the end of the day it’s a wild place, which means it can be unpredictable. It’s important to go in with a plan for what to do if something goes wrong, and also to know the steps you can take to reduce the chances of an emergency in the first place.


Encounters with wildlife can be extremely dangerous or even deadly for dogs. For Handel, it all comes down to training. “We go backpacking out west once a year, where there are grizzlies, mountain lions, moose, and other dangerous animals,” she says. “These are all animals that could be really dangerous if Bear had contact with them. So again, knowing when to leash your dog is imperative.” If your dog is still struggling with recall, Handel suggests drills and training at home until it’s foolproof, and keeping them on a leash otherwise. Another easy preventative measure is to put bells or jingling dog tags on your pet’s collar to ensure you’re making enough noise to scare off any wildlife.


In case of medical emergencies, Handel always makes sure that Bear is carrying his first-aid kit, stocked with supplies to help with small injuries like a torn paw pad, an allergic reaction, or a minor wound. In particular, Handel stresses the importance of self-adhesive medical wrap as Bear is prone to cutting his paws on sharp rocks and ice. “Being able to clean and wrap these things while on the trail is so helpful,” she says.


Enjoy bonding in the great outdoors.
Backpacking with a dog

Photo: kammitchellphoto /Instagram


While it’s important to prepare for everything you may encounter on the trail, don’t get so caught up in the details that you miss the best part: experiencing an adventure in the wild with your companion. Handel sees adventuring outdoors as a unique way to spend time and bond with a dog, and she couldn’t imagine leaving Bear behind when she goes out into the wild. “When most people ‘vacation’ with their dogs, they still spend a chunk of time leaving their dog in a hotel room or with a dog walker or in the car,” she says.


She’s noticed that some of the deepest bonding has come not necessarily from any specific experiences, but rather from the sheer amount of time they’ve spent together, away from the bustle and distractions of civilization. “When backpacking or taking longer road trips, Bear and I are together 24/7,” she says. “On this most recent trip, we spent 16 days and nights straight together. There wasn’t a single moment that we were apart, and through that amount of exposure, you really come to know another being. Most of the time is silent and some is uneventful, but just being together facilitates that bond.”


For Handel, a life outdoors has always been the foundation of her bond with Bear, but it’s even more special because it’s a life they created together. “We have learned how to do everything we do together,” says Handel. “I didn’t splitboard or mountain bike or run or rock climb or camp when I got Bear, so he has learned how to be a part of all of these worlds alongside of me. There’s something really special about figuring these things out together, and in some ways, encouraging one another. I think that in the same way that humans bond after doing challenging things and spending long days together, humans and dogs bond, as well.”


More like this: Camping with your dog is easier than you think. Here’s how to do it.


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Published on January 07, 2020 08:00

Sustainable travel guide to Kauai

Traveling sustainably on Kauai is pretty easy — this is Hawaii’s “Garden Island,” where time stands relatively still, development takes a back seat, and rainforests, agricultural land, and vast beaches prevail.


Hawaiians once abided by an ahupuaa system to maintain the island’s natural state, a system that placed equal emphasis on ma uka (inland) and ma kai (seaward) and governed how they interacted with all natural resources. While these traditional, sustainable ways of life are no longer actively practiced, there are steps you can take to embrace green initiatives, help protect Kauai’s delicate ecosystem, and ultimately leave a smaller footprint during your trip.


Where to stay
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson


Mix the pleasures (and minimal footprint) of camping with a bit more in the way of creature comforts at The Cabins at Kokee, 3,000 feet above sea level in Kokee State Park. These small abodes are minimal in amenities but offer easy access to hiking trails and profound early-morning vistas before the sightseers arrive.


In the take-it-easy category, some hotels have adopted Earth-friendly practices, such as the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa in Poipu. A giant solar array, gardens that supply food to its restaurants, and recycling facilities are among the environmental initiatives of the Green Business Award-winning resort. A more budget-friendly option is the quirky, locally owned Garden Island Inn — its central location in Lihue lets you walk to nearby restaurants, scope out free Hawaiian music, and hit the beach to swim, kayak, and SUP.


Appreciating island history
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Daeja Fallas


Understanding a place and its history is part of being a respectful visitor. Check out the Kauai Musuem in Lihue (four minutes from the airport), and be your own guide through its maze of Hawaiian artifacts. You’ll learn about Kauai’s unique story and see relics excavated from the Haaheo o Hawaii, a royal luxury yacht with a storied past that met its untimely demise in Hanalei Bay. Take time to watch the film that plays on repeat — it covers the history of the islands, including the illegal overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom, in an easy-to-understand way.


With more time, head over to the county town of Waimea, from where Hawaiian royalty (including Kaumualii, the island’s last king) once reigned. This is also the site where Captain Cook first landed in the Hawaiian Islands in the late 1770s.


Tasting local
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Blake Bronstad


Imagine the journey (and fossil-fuel cost) of getting imported goods to the island. Skip that lavish buffet, keep it simple, and keep it local:



The Kauai Culinary Market in Poipu (Wednesdays) and the Kauai Community Market in Lihue (Saturdays) are two of the best farmers markets around. Nab a sugarloaf white pineapple — a smooth, less citric version of the fruit you know.
Coffee is only grown commercially in two US states, so take advantage of the rare opportunity to visit Kauai Coffee Company in Kalaheo. Sample the banana-flavored coffee, and join one of the free daily tours to learn about how the beans are grown and harvested.
At Luau Kalamaku , you’ll taste kalua (baked) pig cooked in an imu (underground oven), poi (cooked and pounded taro root), laulau (steamed meat wrapped in taro leaves), and haupia (coconut pudding), followed by entertainment with Polynesian flair.
Merriman’s Fish House specializes in ono (wahoo), locally caught fish; Kalalea Juice Hale sells tasty açai bowls that incorporate fresh fruit, including papaya and coconut.

Not exactly a sacrifice to keep it local, is it?


Going green on land
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson


Before you head out on any hike, think about taking a rescued dog out for the day from the Kauai Humane Society. Grant them the joy of digging in the sand at Kalapaki Bay or soaking in the smells on a hike up Nounou (Sleeping Giant) Mountain. Just make sure that, wherever you go, dogs are allowed and you follow all leash, cleanup, and other regulations.


Waimea Canyon (“The Grand Canyon of the Pacific”) and Kokee State Park have a bunch of exceptional hikes for the adventure-savvy — with emphasis on the exceptional. Mahaulepu Heritage Trail is also a treat because of its life-sized sandcastles and jagged coastline. Plus, there’s a limestone cave to explore (Makauwahi) — it’s the state’s largest fossil site, and scientists have unearthed bones of extinct giant, flightless birds here. Wear sunscreen and a hat and bring water. This coast is toasty.


Going green on the water
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson


First things first: If you’re really all about sustainability, help keep the ocean free of trash and attend a beach cleanup. Surfrider Foundation, Kauai Chapter hosts at least one a week. Then head to Poipu or Lydgate, two beaches with nooks where all members of the family can safely swim.


Further inland, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and explore Wailua River — the longest on the island — and pay your respects to the sacred area that once served as the birthplace for alii (Hawaiian royalty).


Gaining a sense of place
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson


Nature is the star of the show on Kauai, and ecologically minded tours are the best way to learn about the island’s natural and anthropological history. Check out Fern Grotto with Smith’s Tropical Paradise — you’ll take a two-mile boat ride along the Wailua River to a lava cave dripping in ferns, with Hawaiian entertainment and storytelling along the way.


If you have a hearty pair of sea legs, hop on a boat tour of the Napali Coast. Soak in the unbelievable views of fluted mountains that reach into the sky with companies like Holo Holo Charters or Kauai Sea Tours. Knowledgeable guides will share stories about each of the verdant valleys of this inaccessible region and the Hawaiians who once resided within them.


A more leisurely tour can be found at National Tropical Botanical Garden, an organization dedicated to the conservation of Hawaii’s native plants. Two adjacent gardens (McBryde and Allerton) house enchanting native flora and provide insight into the history and evolution of Hawaii’s plant life.


You can get off your feet, too. Hang out with paniolo (cowboys) and ride horseback through one of the oldest working cattle ranches in the state, set against the north shore’s emerald mountains, at Princeville Ranch. They can also set you up to zipline or kayak.


Supporting local culture
Sustainable travel guide: Kauai, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Heather Goodman


Kauai may be small, but some of its events are mighty. And supporting the island’s people is just as important as supporting the island itself:



Koloa Plantation Days happens every summer and celebrates the rich cultural diversity of the island — bon rodeo events, a parade, art and food festivals, free hula, and Hawaiian music performances make it easy to absorb all that Kauai has to offer.
The best place to stock up on local, one-of-a-kind Kauai products is an art walk. The most popular are Kapaa’s First Saturday Art Walk, every first Saturday of the month, and the Hanapepe Art Night, every Friday. Shops stay open late, art vendors line the streets, and food and entertainment is always a given.

It’s impossible to leave no trace when traveling, but these are some seriously easy ways to respect the natural and cultural beauty of Kauai while making as small an impact as possible. And they’ll ensure your trip is all the more rewarding.

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Published on January 07, 2020 07:00

January 6, 2020

Sustainable travel guide to Oahu

The Hawaiian Islands are some of the most isolated in the Pacific, meaning they’ve had eons to grow their own delicate ecosystem that only gets more fragile as technology churns and burns onward.


Oahu — home to Honolulu, Waikiki, and two-thirds of the state’s population — is only 44 miles long and 30 miles wide. Every inch of these hills, mountains, and valleys is precious. The tour and travel experiences below are sustainable, low-footprint ways to celebrate the land and sea, for kamaaina (locals) and malihini (visitors) alike.


KA AINA – LAND
Sustainable travel guide: Oahu, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Blake Bronstad


“Private property” wasn’t a thing for Hawaiians back in the day. As you explore the island, go in with that mindset — the land is for all of us and none of us. Respect it, and it will give back. Here are a few sustainable activities to consider:


Horseback riding at Gunstock Ranch

The former sugar mill town of Kahuku is home to Gunstock Ranch, a real working ranch where guests can try on the paniolo (cowboy) life. The private, guided horseback rides wind along mountain trails, with views of the lush Koolau Mountain Range and the Pacific not too far away. On the way back, you’ll select, dedicate, and plant your very own tree in the Hawaiian Legacy Forest, where it will continue to grow for generations.


Hiking to and through organic farms

The Farm to Forest Tour with Hawaii Forest & Trail starts at the beach on Oahu’s west side and travels up to the forested mountains overlooking the ocean. The eight-hour excursion — long but still family-friendly — includes access to the Palehua hike in Kapolei, a restricted area that’s home to native Hawaiian flora and fauna you’ll be hard-pressed to find on public hiking trails. You’ll also visit MAO Organic Farms, which grows fresh food for locals, but also gives back to the community by helping its interns pay for college.


Tasting Hawaii farm-to-table

The biodynamic and sustainable farming practices at Kahumana Organic Farm & Cafe are geared towards reducing the island’s dependence on importing food. Kahumana also develops social programs that aid vulnerable members of the West Oahu community, offering transitional housing for homeless families, a day program for adults with developmental disabilities, and daycare and school programs for at-risk youth. Schedule a farm-to-table experience to tour the farm before enjoying a meal at their cafe.


Appreciating taro

Up on the North Shore, Waialua’s is a traditional loi kalo (taro patch). Taro, a staple in the native Hawaiian diet “staff of life,” is grown here via the wetland method: Rainwater falls on the mountains, seeps into the land, and emerges in an artesian well. The taro is farmed within this water and then harvested, and you’ll see just how on your visit. Its leaves and root are cooked to make different dishes, the most important being poi, a starchy paste central to native culture.


Sustainable travel guide: Oahu, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/John Hook


Going for a tasting at Manulele Distillers

In the westside town of Kunia, fields of sugarcane have replaced the old Dole plantation pineapple fields. These surround Manulele Distillers, where you should definitely stop in for a tasting. Sugarcane (ko in Hawaiian) has been a part of the island’s history for over 1,000 years — way before the days of the plantations — and was prized in traditional medicine. While most of the world’s rum is made from molasses (a byproduct of industrial sugar manufacturing), Manulele cultivates their own specially selected heirloom varietals to press and distill its small-batch, farm-to-bottle Ko Hana Rum.


Getting an intimate look at the capital’s art scene

There’s no better guide to Honolulu’s hip Kakaako neighborhood than husband-and-wife duo Matt and Roxy Ortiz, the creative force behind Wooden Wave. Their work centers on hand-drawn illustrations and paintings with sustainable treehouses as a frequent theme. They offer a guided tour of the murals in the city’s street art district — including one of their own pieces — and a behind-the-scenes look at the creative collective at Lana Lane Studios. (Book the Wooden Wave tour, as well as other art experiences, via the Art World Escape app.)


Stopping at SALT for local everything

Named after the salt ponds that once existed in the area, SALT at Our Kaka‘ako is a curated retail center focused on local culture, food, shopping, and community. Taste traditional Hawaiian laulau (pork, fish, or chicken wrapped in taro leaves and steamed) or pipikaula (salted, dried beef) at the family-owned Highway Inn; sample handcrafted cocktails and the always-seasonal menu at Moku Kitchen; dine on locally sourced seafood at FISH; take a cheesemaking class with Naked Cow Dairy Farm & Creamery; or pick up some Lonohana Estate chocolate, made in Hawaii from bean to bar.


KE KAI – SEA
Sustainable travel guide: Oahu, Hawaii

Photo: Wild Side Specialty Tours


The boundaries of the state of Hawaii encompass roughly 4,500 square miles of the Pacific, and you can bet these waters are just as valued — and revered — as any stretch of land. Here’s what you might find yourself doing on the water around Oahu:


Getting closer to wildlife

Explore Hawaii marine life with Wild Side Specialty Tours in Waianae, where small groups get to swim with dolphins, snorkel through turtle reefs, and go whale-watching all year round. The organization is founded and led by marine biologists, and you’ll learn a lot while also giving back — a portion of the proceeds from each charter goes towards ocean conservation via the Wild Dolphin Foundation.


Diving with the sharks

Mano (that’s Hawaiian for shark) are held in high regard by many generations of Hawaiians as aumakua, ancestral guardians that manifest as animals. You can get a closer look at these often misunderstood creatures with One Ocean Diving, an organization dedicated to ocean conservation and behavioral research. You’ll earn some bragging rights by swimming with sharks — mostly Galapagos with the occasional tiger shark sighting — and other marine life, including turtles and dolphins. And did we mention you’ll be doing it without a cage?


Building the kids’ ocean confidence

Bring the kids to an ocean clinic by Nā Kama Kai, an organization dedicated to connecting children (ages 2-18) with the water. Founder Duane DeSoto’s mission is to teach children about ocean safety and kuleana (responsibility) through interaction with lifeguards, surfers, and other ocean professionals — and to hopefully raise a generation that feels a connection and responsibility to the land and sea.


Sustainable travel guide: Oahu, Hawaii

Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson


Longboarding on Waikiki

For an every-generation surf experience, sign up for longboarding lessons with Moniz Family Surf on world-famous Waikiki Beach. The outfit is run by Tony and Tammy Moniz and their five kids (all prolific surfers). Small groups of four will be led through a land demonstration and safety instruction, and then you’ll paddle out together into Waikiki Bay to hone your skills. If you’ve ever dreamed of riding a wave against the backdrop of Leahi (Diamond Head) crater and the famous Royal Hawaiian Hotel, your chance is here and now.

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Published on January 06, 2020 20:25

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