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Where see 2020 total solar eclipse

December in South America usually means warm summer days drenched in sunlight. This December, however, travelers in Chile and Argentina can experience a dark-as-night sky in the middle of the afternoon. On December 14, 2020, a total solar eclipse will cut across Chile’s Lake District and northern Patagonia in Argentina, where anyone within the 56-mile-wide path of totality can witness the moon pass fully between the sun and Earth. The phenomenon will reach Chile’s west coast at 1:00 PM and take about 20 minutes to cross over Argentina’s east coast.

Photo: orangecrush/Shutterstock

A partial eclipse will be visible across much of the continent, but why travel all that way and miss out on totality? Especially considering it’s happening overhead some of South America’s most epic scenery. Here’s where to go in Chile and Argentina if you not only want to see the 2020 total solar eclipse but also turn it into one hell of a trip.

1. Pucón, Chile

Photo: Guaxinim/Shutterstock

Pucón takes the top spot on this list for two reasons: Eclipse-chasers can expect a long duration of totality at two minutes and nine seconds, and the town itself is a well-established outdoor adventure destination that’s equipped for an influx of tourists.

Sat on the banks of Lake Villarrica in the Chilean Lake District, beneath a same-named volcano that caters to alternating crowds of skiers and trekkers, Pucón is plenty entertaining even without a celestial event tipping the tourist scales in its favor. There’s whitewater rafting on the Trancura River, biking and horseback riding on forest trails, and jet skiing off Playa Grande. As summer will just be starting in December, you’ll also appreciate the town’s access to Huerquehue National Park in the days leading up to or following the eclipse.

Eco-lodges, boutique hotels, and guesthouses are all available to travelers, who convene at the bars and restaurants along main-drag Avenida O’Higgins after full days outdoors — whether that means connecting with the earth at eye level or admiring the sky above.

2. San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina

Photo: eskystudio/Shutterstock

Though Bariloche sits slightly outside the path of totality, it nonetheless secured a spot on this list, much as it has on many a Patagonia itinerary. In fact, that’s exactly why it earned a spot.

Bariloche is pure magic: It lies at the heart of Argentina’s Lake District in the Andes, neighbored by Nahuel Huapi National Park, the country’s oldest. Nearby Cerro Catedral is a major snow-sports resort while downtown serves up a microbrew-heavy après scene that keeps going strong even after the skiers have cleared out. If not for the many parrillas serving up classic Argentine asado, Bariloche’s alpine architecture and famously tasty chocolate might have convinced you that you accidentally landed in Switzerland.

When it comes time to actually view the eclipse, visitors may want to journey to Junín de los Andes or Piedra del Águila a couple of hours north in the Neuquén province. There’s not much in the way of tourist infrastructure in either destination, but the promise of better visibility and a front-row seat on the path of totality are more than worth the excursion. Some eclipse-chasers will head to the province’s eponymous capital, Patagonia’s largest city, as well.

3. San Martín de los Andes, Argentina

Photo: abriendomundo/Shutterstock

San Martín de los Andes is like baby Bariloche: slightly smaller, a little more low-key, and somewhat less discovered. Yet it too is situated in Andean foothills. It too wraps around its very own lake, f, and opens to a national park, Lanín. And come December, it too will play host to its very own eclipse-chasers, who’ll actually be able to experience totality from town.

One of the benefits of choosing a viewing base in Argentine Patagonia is that there’s less likelihood of cloud coverage during the eclipse. Take advantage of the clearer skies while in the area, opting for activities like boating and birdwatching in your downtime. San Martín de los Andes also has a high density of surprisingly good restaurants and doubles as handicraft central, so it’s likely you’ll walk away with a better souvenir than eclipse glasses.

4. Temuco, Chile

Photo: Warehouse of Images/Shutterstock

Temuco, an hour-and-a-half drive north of Pucón in central Chile, will experience a shorter duration of totality at roughly about 40 seconds. A mid-sized city, Temuco has a population about 10 times that of Pucón, and while it lacks the latter’s mountain-town scenery, there’s more spirit imbued in its streets than might appear at the first glance.

Representing the city’s 200,000-plus residents are sizeable student and indigenous Mapuche populations. Though not famous for much, Temuco is well-known as the former home of two Chilean Nobel laureates: Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral. Plan to station yourself at the Cerro Ñielol Natural Monument, the tallest point in the city, during the eclipse. After, stick around the park’s 90 hectares of woodland to hunt for copihue, Chile’s national flower.

5. Las Grutas, Argentina

Photo: Pedro Moraes/Shutterstock

Argentina’s mountain towns don’t have a monopoly on the total solar eclipse. Among the places projected to have the best viewing conditions is Las Grutas, a beach resort on the Río Negro. As a seaside escape, Las Grutas delivers with warmer-than-usual waters for Patagonia, southern right whales between June and December, and endless beachy caves and crannies to explore. Plus sand dunes to ATV down and even a couple of casinos should the mood strike. Las Grutas is a solid option for those looking to escape the tour groups that will congregate in Pucón, Bariloche, Piedra del Águila, and others, though travelers should still expect to contend with the regular summer beachgoers.


More like this: 12 stargazing events you don’t want to miss in 2020

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Why Irish cheese is so good

Many people reach for a funky, spreadable French Camembert, or a creamy, rich Tomme from Switzerland when they head to their local cheesemonger. There’s a good chance their eyes slide right past the Irish goat cheese and land on a savory Manchego imported from Spain instead. Yet if you claim you’re a cheese connoisseur, it would be beneficial to unlearn this prejudice. Because Ireland’s lush farmland produces some of the most underappreciated cheese in the world.

What is Irish cheese

To be clear, I’m not talking about the blocks of Kerrygold Irish cheddar you’ve probably noticed and even purchased at your local supermarket. This type of mass-produced cheese is widely available throughout the United States, but it’s not representative of the best cheese Ireland has to offer.

Ireland specializes in what most cheesemakers in the country called “farmhouse” cheese. This unofficial term isn’t regulated, but to the small, artisan cheesemakers peppered throughout Ireland’s farm country, it stands for guiding principles behind their production process.

“To us, it means small scale [cheesemakers], just one family making the cheese,” says Marion Roeleveld, founder of Killeen cheese in Galway. “We’re all small producers, artisan producers. We have our own animals, or we buy milk from one herd. We believe we all fall into that category.”

At Killen, Roeleveld, a transplant from Holland who moved to Ireland in 2001, makes goat’s milk cheese with her own flock. She’s also been buying cow milk from a neighboring farm just three miles down the road from her property for more than a decade. This type of friendly relationship between farms is, according to Roeleveld, common in the Irish farmhouse cheese community.

Photo: CAIS

Part of the reason that Ireland farmhouse cheese still flies under the radar is that it’s a relatively new phenomenon. Roeleveld explains that farmhouse cheesemakers didn’t appear on the scene until the late 1970s. According to CAIS, the Association of Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers, before then Irish cheese was almost entirely mass produced in large scale factories, and even then, those companies produced cheddar almost exclusively. The first farmhouse cheesemakers opened their doors in 1979, and in 1983 they came together to form CAIS.

“It’s not an old tradition,” Roeleveld says. “People can make whatever they want. They aren’t tied to a family recipe.”

As a result, there is no standard Irish cheese. Farmhouse cheesemakers create cheddars, blue cheese, washed rinds, Camembert-style, and Gouda-style cheeses — name a type of cheese, and someone is probably aging it in Ireland right now.

The diversity of styles is impressive given that most farmhouse cheesemaking operations are tiny, only producing around 10 to 25 tons of cheese per year. Small batches ensure the cheese can be made by hand with the highest quality ingredients on family-owned farms. But it also means the word about Irish cheese spreads slowly. There simply isn’t enough to go around.

“We aren’t really big enough to be recognized,” says Roeleveld. “We can’t supply the whole world.”

What Irish cheese tastes like, and what makes them so good

Photo: CAIS

Generations of Irish dairy farmers hand-churned their own butter, which they primarily used in soda bread, so cheese is a natural next step in the progression. And they have a secret weapon: The grass is what makes the cheese so good.

For Roeleveld, Irish grass takes on an almost mystical quality — she can’t quite define why it makes Ireland’s butter and cheese taste so good. It just does. She even refuses to define what flavors the grass imparts on the cheese.

“It’s impossible to answer because there are so many different types,” she says. “There’s no standard flavor.”

All she can really say is that it comes down to what farmers feed the animals that provide the milk that becomes the cheese. Italian and French livestock eat mostly hay, while the lush, damp, grass feeds Ireland’s sheep, cows, and goats. Cheeses from any of these countries could be described as creamy, rich, buttery, pungent, aromatic, or funky, but it’s the grass that makes each of these characteristics distinctly Irish. You won’t know how unless you try it for yourself.

Photo: CAIS

“It just makes it different cheese from other countries,” Roeleveld says. “In general, the grass makes the butter fat a little bit softer. I make a gouda, and my cheese would be softer than the Netherlands. They get maize and straw in the Netherlands. We could use the same recipe as the French or Italians but if you feed your animals grass you will get a different taste.”

The rainy climate helps, too. Roeleveld points to West Cork in particular, which is close to the coast where spray from the ocean washes over everything. Washed rind cheeses are the specialty in that region, where they mature in the damp, salty air.

Irish cheeses to try

Photo: 4H4 Photography/Shutterstock

Roeleveld recommends starting with washed-rind cheeses (cheeses treated with a brine during the maturation process to impart flavor) from West Cork: Durrus, Gubbeen, and Milleens. These founding members of the Association of Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers are among her favorites. However, like most small-scale Irish farmhouse cheese, it’s tricky to get your hands on — and nearly impossible if you’re outside of Ireland.

Gubbeen, for instance, has no online shop and only sells its cheeses at regional farmers markets. However, Ireland- and England-based cheesemongers like Sheridan’s and Stamford carry the other two if you happen to be traveling around the British Isles.

Roeleveld is also a fan of raw milk cheeses, in particular those made by Kay and Paddy Cooney from Derg Farmhouse Cheese. However, these cheeses are becoming harder to find because unpasteurized cheese is tightly regulated. Hegarty (also available at Sheridan’s) also makes a raw milk cheese, but their French cheesemaker makes gruyere-style cheese called Templegall that Roeleveld finds especially appealing.

Irish farmhouse cheese might still be a rarity in the United States, but maybe that’s for the best. Keeping farmhouse cheese local lets Irish farmers make sustainable, hand-made cheese. In the meantime, there are worse ways to spend your next getaway to Ireland than visiting every cheese farm on the map.


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9 memorable moments in New Brunswick

New Brunswick is one of Canada’s oldest and smallest provinces — and one of my personal favorites. It was here that I spent my formative years playing on beaches, eating fiddleheads, scouting for whales, and exploring the ocean floor at low tide. Now that I’m an adult, the to-do list has expanded a bit, and the views I remember from childhood seem even more incredible.

Should you be lucky enough to find yourself here too, you’ll see firsthand that this place is a real memory-maker. There will be many, but here are nine moments you’ll remember long after you’ve returned home.

1. Wandering the ocean floor at The Hopewell Rocks

Photo: Shutterstock/Verena Joy

Every year, nearly a quarter of a million people flock to the shores of southeast New Brunswick to see The Hopewell Rocks. These quirky formations are affectionately known as the Flowerpots thanks to their unique shape: narrow at the bottom, broader further up, and topped with greenery, wildflowers, and trees. The Flowerpots owe it all — their shape, their mass appeal — to the power of the Bay of Fundy’s dramatic tides, the highest in the world.

Come low tide, visitors can walk the ocean floor and see the Flowerpots up close. During higher tides, when the water’s rolled back in, an ocean kayaking excursion with local outfitter Baymount Outdoor Adventures Inc. is a laid-back way to explore via the water. One incredible natural formation, two totally different experiences.

Note: Access is seasonal, from mid-May to mid-October.

2. Seeing New Brunswick from its treetops

New Brunswick’s raw, unspoiled nature is one of its best features. It’s an exceptional destination for hiking, mountain biking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing. And while I love to experience the province’s beauty through gentle nature walks, I’m surrounded by daredevils who prefer to zip, climb, and jump through it at high speed.

TimberTop Adventures in Saint John is the way to do just that. They may be one of the largest treetop aerial adventure parks in Canada, but they’re also particularly great for the family — and for all experience and comfort levels. Their “Low & Go” adventure course was specifically designed for children as young as five years old (sure wish I could use this one!). For those eight and older, they offer 11 different courses, 100 obstacles, more than 20 ziplines, and one wild Flying Squirrel jump — where you’ll plummet from a 36-foot platform.

3. Strolling and sipping at a pioneering winery

Photo: Kelly Lawson Photography/Magnetic Hill Winery

Just a few minutes from Magnetic Hill is the Magnetic Hill Winery, a gorgeous estate overlooking the greater Moncton area. Once a “u-pick” berry farm, their fruit-packed — and therefore good-for-you! — wines are some of the best in New Brunswick.

When you’re here, take a tour of the vineyards, relax with a wine-and-cheese picnic on the grounds or on the patio, or just enjoy free samples in the tasting room. One of my favorites is the tasty and aptly named Illusions — you’ll think it’s a pinot grigio until you realize it’s 100% rhubarb.

Lodging tip: The estate’s 1800s homestead has been painstakingly restored, and the result is a spectacular heritage bed and breakfast — with complimentary wine tastings for guests!

4. Going for a dip at Kouchibouguac National Park

New Brunswick’s North Atlantic beaches aren’t just gorgeous. They’re also warm! I can personally back up the claim of Kouchibouguac National Park to having some of the warmest beaches north of Virginia. (Tip: It’s pronounced “koo-she-boo-gwack.”)

If you have to choose just one, Kellys Beach is an especially family-friendly spot, with more than 15 miles of sand dunes, changing facilities, and concessions, plus interpretive programs led by national parks guides. Overnight guests have a range of camping options, including DIY tent spots and comfortable “glamping” tents, aka Canada’s awesome oTENTiks.

5. Saying “Cheers!” to the Fredericton beer scene

Photo: Fredericton Tourism

New Brunswick’s capital of Fredericton has its eye on an ambitious prize: to be known as the craft-beer leader of Eastern Canada. And they’re well on their way! In this city of about 60,000, there are more than a dozen craft breweries. Here are a few notables:

Picaroons Brewing has a large outdoor space perfect for groups — try their Plaid to the Bone, a biscuit-y pale ale.
Grimross Brewing frequently features live music on Friday nights. Opt for the Maritime Cream Ale at least once.
Trailway Brewing reinvented Canada’s oldest single-ownership bowling alley as “The Drome.” It’s a craft-beer-bowling destination with Trailway on tap (plus fantastic food).

A couple more that I keep returning to are Mama’s Brew Pub (gotta love their superb seasonal chocolate-peanut-butter stout) and Red Rover Craft Cider (their ginger-spiced Fire Cider is amazing!).

6. Connecting with Mi’gmaq First Nations

The Indigenous Mi’gmaq have been here since time immemorial, and their way of life is still tangible at Metepenagiag Heritage Park, a 3,000-year-old village and cemetery excavated some 40 years ago along the banks of the Little Southwest Miramichi River.

The interpretive center is certainly impressive, but your fondest memories will come from the guided tour. You’ll rove the trails, gather plants and herbs for tea, munch on traditional bread, and sit around the fire — built for the fresh catch you’re about to enjoy — listening to Mi’gmaq stories and folklore. When that journey’s over, wander the trails on your own to clear your senses and connect with Mother Nature.

7. Nibbling on lobster and fiddleheads

Photo: Shutterstock/Kateryna Omelianchenko

If you can only choose one spot to chow down on seafood in New Brunswick, make it Shediac, home of the “World’s Largest Lobster,” a fun roadside attraction — and the freshly caught lobster on menus here is pretty impressive as well. It’s also worth mentioning that, a bit father north, the Miramichi River is considered one of the best fly-fishing spots in the world.

For the granddaddy roadside attraction of them all, though, the small village of Plaster Rock is home to the “World’s Largest Fiddlehead.” Fiddleheads are the unfurled shoot of a young wild fern — when blanched and doused with butter, they’re delicious! You can find fiddleheads in Plaster Rock and across New Brunswick every spring.

8. Setting sail with the whales in Saint Andrews

From minkes to finbacks to humpbacks, there are as many as 12 different species of whales in the Bay of Fundy come summer, and perhaps the best place to see them is in Saint Andrews. This small town is Atlantic Canadian charm personified, with pretty streets, cute ice cream counters, seaside restaurants, and a romantic old hotel: the Algonquin Resort.

From the harbor, a number of outfitters offer whale-watching cruises June through to October. Guests are all but guaranteed to see multiple whales, porpoises, and dolphins, and tours also take in lighthouses and seabird nesting sites.

9. Doing just about anything on Grand Manan Island

Photo: Shutterstock/Paul Pound

From the pictures, you’d be forgiven for thinking Grand Manan Island was a part of Ireland or Scotland — it has the heart-pounding steep cliffs, the proverbial lush green fields, and snug little cottages of our across-the-pond neighbors.

But this petite island sits at the southernmost point of New Brunswick’s border with Maine, and it has a very maritime feel, complete with lobster fishing, antique lighthouses, and an affable, down-to-earth community. If you’re a beachcomber like me, you’ll want to add Grand Manan to your travel list. Of course, as this list should show, you’ll want to add all of New Brunswick to your travel list, really.

The post 9 moments you’ll remember forever from your trip to New Brunswick appeared first on Matador Network.

Carnival cancels Princess Cruises

The spread of coronavirus has caused Carnival, the world’s largest cruise company, to cancel all journeys of its Princess Cruises line for two months. The company announced that it would pause the voyages of 18 ships between March 12 and May 10, in order to reassure passengers, employees, and investors. Passengers currently aboard one of the ships will be allowed to complete their journeys as long as the cruise is set to end within five days — those on longer voyages will disembark early.

Jan Swartz, president of Princess Cruises, said in a statement, “By taking this bold action of voluntarily pausing the operations of our ships, it is our intention to reassure our loyal guests, team members and global stakeholders of our commitment to the health, safety, and well-being of all who sail with us, as well as those who do business with us, and the countries and communities we visit around the world.”

Princess Cruises carries over 50,000 passengers from 70 countries aboard its ships each day. As the coronavirus hit two Princess Cruises sailings hard these past months, the public is understandably wary of booking a cruise vacation.

Passengers affected by the cancelations will be given a credit for 100 percent of the cost to be applied to a future cruise.


More like this: Everything travelers need to know about the coronavirus outbreak

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New York City coronavirus closures

Security measures are increasing throughout the United States to prevent the spread of coronavirus, which includes the temporary closing of popular tourist attractions and cultural institutions. New York City has been particularly affected.

On Thursday, New York Governor Andrew Cuomo announced a new ban on gatherings of over 500 people. The Metropolitan Museum of Art closed indefinitely, and the Metropolitan Opera and New York Philharmonic will shut its doors until March 31. There is, as yet, no date set for the reopening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Most dramatically, Broadway will also go dark. On Wednesday night, a theater usher was diagnosed with the coronavirus, and the industry spent Thursday discussing whether or not to close down all productions. Ultimately, it was announced that Broadway would suspend all shows for a month, going into effect immediately.

The Broadway closure in New York is the most serious since the days following 9/11, when the theaters shut down for two days. It’s possible that some shows may not be able to recover from the closures.

Charlotte St. Martin, President of the Broadway League, said in a statement, “Our top priority has been and will continue to be the health and well-being of Broadway theatregoers and the thousands of people who work in the theatre industry every day, including actors, musicians, stagehands, ushers, and many other dedicated professionals. Broadway has the power to inspire, enrich and entertain, and together we are committed to making that vital spirit a reality. Once our stages are lit again, we will welcome fans back with open arms so that they can continue to experience the joy, heart, and goodwill that our shows so passionately express every night.”


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The post Broadway goes dark, and other NYC cultural institutions to shut their doors appeared first on Matador Network.

Best hikes in the Caucasus Mountains

The Caucasus — encompassing Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan — are among the most stunning yet lesser-known hiking regions in the world. These former Soviet republics sit at a significant cultural intersection of Asia and Europe, with the Caucasus Mountains as their dramatic backbone. Travelers have already been discovering their cities, from the trendy, offbeat Georgian capital, Tbilisi, to the fascinating urban blend of old town and contemporary architectural wonders in Azerbaijan’s Baku. But beyond the urban areas, these countries are full of captivating landscapes and traditional communities that beckon to be explored by foot.

Georgia and Armenia, in particular, have some extremely well-maintained hiking trails. The proposed Transcaucasian Trail, which will link both countries by a long-distance thru-hike, will likely draw the attention of backpacking enthusiasts when it’s complete. For now, though, the region is still flying under the radar as an outdoor haven, and you’ll find a complete sense of serenity and seclusion out on the trails. So, here are nine of the best treks you can find in the Caucasus that prove it should be your next destination for an outdoor adventure.

1. Mestia to Ushguli, Georgia

Photo: Evgeny Eremeev/Shutterstock

Time required: four days

Distance: 36 miles

Accommodation style: guesthouse/homestay

This four-day hike is definitely the most popular multi-day trek in Georgia. Its popularity is for good reason, though, as it provides some of the most beautiful views in the Caucasus Mountains and can be completed without carrying camping gear.

The trek starts in Mestia, the main town in Georgia’s northern Svaneti region. You can literally begin by hiking directly out of town with a well-maintained and waymarked trail to follow. As you climb over the ridgelines of this northern part of Georgia you have mighty glaciers and snow-capped peaks forming a backdrop to the unique Svan towers, historic, defensive structures made of stone that have become a symbol of the region. The area is home to a number of ancient communities, most of which have retained their original houses and Svan towers. These villages provide local, family-run guesthouses for hikers where you can enjoy some khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) at the end of a long day, washed down with a swig of homebrewed chacha (brandy).

The hospitality of the people is certainly one of the highlights of this trek, but the views are also incredible. Crossing the Chkhunderi Pass at 8,710 feet is certainly one of the most epic sections, offering a 360-degree view of the Adishi glacier and the surrounding ridgelines of the Caucasus Mountains. The trek finishes in Ushguli, a remote, traditional settlement considered one of the highest villages in Europe. From there, it’s possible to find a ride back to Mestia along the unsealed road used by visiting day-trippers.

2. St. Andrews Trail, Georgia

Photo: Rene Baars/Shutterstock

Time required: four days

Distance: 33.5 miles

Accommodation style: tourist shelters

The St. Andrews trail is considered the highlight of Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park in the lower Caucasus Mountains. It’s one of the largest parks in Georgia, best known for its pristine alpine forests and abundant wildlife.

Beyond its natural wonders, another appealing aspect of this trek is the well-developed hiking infrastructure within the park. Rather than carrying a tent, you can stay overnight in the tourist hiking shelters, which have a number of basic wooden beds available. Book the shelters prior to setting out at the National Park Visitor Center, where you can also pick up good hiking maps.

The trail itself begins at the Atskuri Guard Station, around 16 miles away from the visitor venter. From there, the trail is well marked and crosses alpine meadows and broad-leaved forests until it opens up to panoramic views of the rolling hills. On the second day, you climb steadily up to the highest peak in the park, Mount Sametskhvario at 8,667 feet, where you can enjoy the best views of the entire region. The third day is long and equally challenging over some of the highest ridges in the national park, and you can enjoy glimpses of other 7,000-foot peaks. The trek comes to an end at the ranger station at Marelisi.

3. Juta to Roshka via Chaukhi Pass, Georgia

Photo: think4photop/Shutterstock

Time required: 1-2 days

Distance: 11 miles (15.5 miles, if including a side trip to the White Lake)

Accommodation style: guesthouses or camping

For many trekkers, this is the most impressive hike in Georgia. But because of its remote location, it sees far fewer people than you might expect. It’s a spectacular trail that connects the overly popular Kazbegi with the more secluded Khevsureti region. The highlight of this trail is undoubtedly the Chaukhi Massif, a razor-sharp mountain of seven jagged peaks. In fact, the hike takes you over a high pass right through the range, and it’s by no means an easy trek.

The route begins in a village called Juta, a 13-mile drive from Stepantsminda, the main town and tourist hub of the Kazbegi region in northern Georgia. From Juta, you leave the village and cross over ice-cold streams and open-field slopes as you climb slowly towards the staggering peaks. The views from Chaukhi Pass are breathtaking — but, at almost 11,000 feet, you might feel a little out of breath from the altitude, too.

The descent down to Roshka village is steep and rocky. Along the way you’ll see huge boulders that have come down from the Chaukhi Massif over time, as well as the stunning colored Abudelauri Lakes. The so-called Blue Lake and Green Lake will be on your right, but the White Lake requires a deviation of an extra hour to get to its water’s edge.

Guesthouses are available in both Juta and Roshka, meaning if you are fit and able you could complete the entire 11-mile trek in one long day without the need to carry a tent. However, many people prefer to stop somewhere halfway and wild camp for the night.

4. Omalo to Shatili, Georgia

Photo: Ana Flasker/Shutterstock

Time required five days

Distance: 46 miles

Accommodation style: camping

If you prefer to explore more remote and secluded areas, then this trek in the Tusheti National Park is one of the best within Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains. Goat tracks connect medieval villages that for centuries have stood steadfast against penetrating enemies. Each of the villages still have their crumbling traditional watchtowers, similar to what you find in the more popular Svaneti region further west.

The trek winds its way over valleys connecting the two villages of Omalo in Tusheti and Shatili in the Khevsureti region. The first couple of days are spent passing through a number of remote hamlets, with their traditional houses made from layered shale stones with lofty watchtowers flying the national flag.

The fourth day is the most challenging, as it takes you away from civilization and over the 11,500-foot Atsunta Pass. The views are very much worth the effort though, with the layers of mountains back through the valley appearing as though they are covered in green velvet. Along the way, you’ll pass a number of border guard posts as the trail is quite close to the sensitive Russian border. It’s relatively easy to follow, but the trek is not entirely waymarked, so it’s best to carry a map or GPS device with you.

You can try to stay in some of the villages that you pass through, as the locals are friendly, but you’ll still need to be completely self-sufficient to complete the entire trek.

5. Little Switzerland, Dilijan National Park, Armenia

Photo: Dmitriy Gutkovskiy/Shutterstock

Time required: five days

Distance: 52.8 miles

Accommodation style: guesthouse and camping

This trek is a section of the yet-to-be complete Transcaucasian Trail, which will eventually link existing hikes in Armenia and Georgia. It’s become a showcase section of the multi-country trail and has been tried and tested by many hikers in anticipation for the much longer thru-hike.

This five-day section follows forested trails through many of the main historical sites in Armenia’s Dilijan National Park. It passes by the early Christian monasteries of Goshavank, Jukhtak, and Haghartsin, which date back as far as the 10th century, and have the distinctive Armenian architecture that you’ll see throughout much of the country. The trail takes an almost circular route from the village of Kachardzan to Hovk, passing through the main town in the region along the way, Dilijan. It’s recently been well waymarked, and there is even a GPS-guided app run by HIKEArmenia that can help with navigation, making it manageable for most people to complete independently.

The pretty forests are still home to roaming bears and wolves, although the trail itself is never too far from civilization, often passing through farmland. We recommended being fully self-sufficient in terms of gear and food, as one of the night’s rest stops requires wild camping.

6. Vayots Dzor, Armenia

Photo: OSTILL is Franck Camhi/Shutterstock

Time required: seven days

Distance: 77.7 miles

Accommodation style: guesthouse and camping

The Vayots Dzor province in southeastern Armenia is known by most visitors for its fine vineyards and the world’s oldest known winery inside the Areni cave complex. The area was also a stretch along the former Silk Road trade route, with old caravanserais, or resting places for traders, still found within the old villages. The best-preserved of these caravanserais in Armenia is known as Selim, where this trek begins.

The caravanserai was built in the 14th century as a place for traders and their animals to rest as they traversed the region’s tiresome mountains. In a way then, when you hike from here south through Vayots Dzor, you are effectively following in the footsteps of those early travelers. From the Selim caravanserai, the trail has been recently waymarked, and you’ll find painted blazes as well as some directional signposts along the almost 78-mile route. If you’re completely self-sufficient, you can wild camp the entire way — although guesthouse accommodation can be taken advantage of at all but one overnight stop.

The trail climbs through forested slopes that open out into impressive vistas of the rolling ridgelines and surrounding mountain ranges. If you allow the time, you can follow the signposts to old fortress ruins and historic churches that dot the landscape in this ancient land. The trail finishes in the village of Ughedzor, not far from the main national highway in Armenia.

You can download GPS files and maps from the Transcaucasian Trail website. Otherwise, the HIKEArmenia app also has a number of day hikes in the Vayots Dzor region that you can add to your adventure.

7. Gegham Mountains, Armenia

Photo: Leonid Andronov/Shutterstock

Time required: six days

Distance: 71.5 miles

Accommodation style: camping

If you prefer to get completely isolated in some of Armenia’s most captivating and raw landscapes, then this trek might be the ultimate challenge. It has yet to be waymarked and requires a completely self-sufficient and unsupported adventure through land that is only inhabited in the summer months.

The Gegham Mountains are perhaps Armenia’s most breathtaking landscape in the lower Caucasus Mountains. They’re a chain of volcanic peaks that stretch from north to the south of the country and are only hospitable after the snow melts and the nomadic Yezidi herders return to set up camp. This 71-mile backcountry trail stretches north from Selim caravanserai to the town of Sevan, on the shores of the piercing indigo lake. It’s technically joined to the Vayots Dzor multi-day trail at Selim, which could be completed together in one long, epic trek.

This trek alone requires several steep ascents up scree slopes and navigating open fields. However, there is a designated trail that has been traversed a number of times in preparation for the coveted Transcaucasian Trail. For now, it remains the country’s ultimate backpacking adventure, offering wide-open vistas across dormant volcanoes with colorful volcanic soil that turns the slopes a rich rusty color.

You can download GPS files and maps on the Transcaucasian Trail website. If you’d prefer to tackle the trail with an expert, you can also hire a professional guide.

8. Around Quba, Azerbaijan

Photo: mbrand85/Shutterstock

Time required: one to four days

Accommodation style: guesthouse and camping

Hiking in Azerbaijan may not be as organized as in Georgia and Armenia, but the country has its fair share of rugged mountains, where traditional villages and remnants of former empires still remain. Its share of the Caucasus Mountains runs through the far northwest of the country, close to the borders with Georgia and Russia.

Although there are not really any existing long-distance trails, hiking is emerging as a popular activity in a couple of areas. Quba is one of the main towns in the Lower Caucasus and easily accessible from Azerbaijan’s capital, Baku. Using Quba as a base, you can explore the surrounding villages on foot with a local guide. The main attractions are the two remote and traditional villages of Laza and Khinaliq (or Xinaliq).

Khinaliq is the self-proclaimed most-remote village in Europe, sitting at a lofty 7,710 feet and just 30 miles from Quba. It’s been continuously inhabited for around 5,000 years, and the stunning mountains surrounding the small settlement have managed to keep invaders at bay. It’s possible to organize a local guide in Khinaliq to take you on numerous day hikes higher into the mountains for a bird’s-eye view of the village. However, for a more secluded and immersive challenge, you can opt to trek the few days to Laza village.

Laza is a far smaller settlement and feels even more remote, with towering rocky peaks and flowing waterfalls turning the landscape an emerald green. It’s easy to lose yourself in the serenity of this surreal, sparsely inhabited landscape. Navigation is your biggest challenge here. If you want to traverse between villages, we recommend hiring a guide and pack horses.

9. Around Sheki, Azerbaijan

Photo: ETIBARNAME/Shutterstock

Time required: one to four days

Accommodation style: guesthouse and camping

Sheki is a small, historic town at the base of the Greater Caucasus Mountains that was a popular resting place along the former Silk Road trade route. Although many visitors go to Sheki for its old palaces and restored caravanserai, or ancient inns for Silk Road travelers, the surrounding mountains will beckon any enthusiastic hiker.

As in most of Azerbaijan’s mountains, there are little to no waymarked trails, and navigating the goat tracks around the area requires the knowledge of a local guide. However, Sheki is a popular stop for people traveling overland between Georgia and Azerbaijan, and tourism infrastructure is somewhat more advanced than in Quba.

A local guide can be arranged to take you into the hills directly from town. A popular day hike from Sheki can take you through the village of Kish and its Albanian church before continuing on to the ruins of the ninth-century Gelersen-Gorersen fortress, which was pivotal in keeping the Persians from invading. Further trips into the mountains involving camping and pack horses can be arranged through any accommodation options in Sheki.

More like this: How to go hut-to-hut hiking in Slovenia’s glorious Julian Alps

The post 9 treks that showcase the Caucasus’ remote and rugged beauty appeared first on Matador Network.

Sustainable wine, Alentejo, Portugal

Portugal’s Alentejo province is blessed. Sort of.

The Massachusetts-sized region has been making wine, off and on, for some 8,000 years. Its abundant sunshine and heat are balanced by cooling night winds from the Atlantic. The rich soil nearly begs you to put a seed in the ground. Cork-tree plantations, photogenic villages, a welcoming populace, and scenic hilly landscapes are everywhere to be found. But there’s one thing in which Alentejo is severely lacking: water. And the global rise in temperatures isn’t helping.

Alentejo (pronounced ah-len-TAY-zhoo), east and to the south of Lisbon, has never been known for its moisture. In fact, much of the province features the same arid brown countryside you’ll find in rural California or Spain. But there’s always been enough water to grow wine grapes: aragonez, with its hints of pepper and berries; alicante bouschet, the region’s flagship red; antão vaz, a full-bodied white — Portugal has more than 250 indigenous grape varieties, and a number of them flourish alongside non-native varieties in Alentejo.

But with just 23 inches of rain per year, Alentejo, among the world’s major wine regions, is one of the most vulnerable to climate change. Sustainable, biodynamic, and organic growing techniques aren’t just trendy here. They are the keys to the region’s future viability as a wine producer and wine-tourism destination.

Choosing the right grapes for the climate

Photo: Mark Orwoll

The Portuguese wine industry saw a resurgence in 1986 when the country joined the European Union. Government-mandated wine cooperatives that made poor-quality bulk wines since the 1930s were minimized or abolished in favor of smaller, more creative, independent wineries.

In 1988, Carrie and Hans Kristian Jorgensen, a Danish-American couple, arrived at the 902-acre Cortes de Cima estate in Vidigueira, hoping to start their own winery. What they found might have scared off other prospective winemakers: no sewage lines, no plumbing, no electricity. Today, they’re among the region’s respected producers. They have four full-time winemakers who have found success with aragonez, trincadeira, and touriga nacional grapes, among other varieties. But there are challenges.

“Climate change affects us every day,” says Hamilton Reis, Cortes de Cima’s chief winemaker. Reis has a Ph.D. in microbiology, so he knows what he’s talking about. He’s in charge of everything from blending the wines to the final bottling. “We love our Portuguese grapes, but the most important thing is the right grapes for the right place.”

As a result, he’s most concerned about their future ability to grow aragonez (the local name for the Spanish tempranillo grape), one of the region’s dominant varieties, which makes dark, rich reds well-loved by fans of Portuguese wines.

“Aragonez can make beautiful wine,” Reis says, “the best wines. But it can have problems with the climate. Still, it belongs here. It has the identity of Alentejo.”

The trouble, he says, is that the aragonez grape can shut down in intense heat, and may not come back once it does. Climate change is killing it.

Meantime, the winery is having better luck with grapes that handle the heat better and need less water (Cortes de Cima irrigates just a couple of times each season). The tasting room — with its arched walls, exposed-beam ceilings, and baronial fireplace — is a jolly place to sample some of its award-winning syrah, bottled under the name Incognito.

Traditional techniques, modern methods

Photo: Mark Orwoll

The European Union, acutely aware of the climate threat to its wineries, has established voluntary guidelines for sustainable wine production. Adega José de Sousa and its parent company, José Maria de Fonseca, have subscribed to those methods for decades. Among its initiatives: the treatment and reuse of wastewater in its green spaces, the use of water-saving drip irrigation, fertilizing the vineyards with a mulch of grape stems and vine leaves, and allowing vegetation to grow among the rows of grapevines to retain moisture. As a result of its commitment to battling climate change in the vineyards, Adega José de Sousa is well-positioned to gain the Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program certificate, which will be issued for the first time in 2020 by the 385-member Wines of Alentejo organization.

The thing that really sets José de Sousa apart, though, is its fermentation methods. Having nothing to do with environmental sustainability and everything to do with tradition, De Sousa (established in 1878) ferments its wines in 114 huge clay pots, or amphorae. After the grapes are crushed, the juice, stems, and seeds are placed in the clay pots. Using long-handled rake-like tools, the winemakers “push down” the mixture twice a day for several weeks to prevent pressure build-up that can cause the amphorae to explode. Some of the amphorae in their cellars date to 1879.

Photo: Mark Orwoll

A tour of the winery would be a waste if one were to miss the photogenic underground amphorae cellars, which look much as they might have a hundred years ago, complete with angular sunbeams pouring through an upper window, darkened corners with history in every stone and brick, and the clay pots themselves, most big enough to hold several men inside.

The picturesque, rustic tasting room is from the 1930s, with a beamed ceiling, stone floor, old winery posters, wine-competition trophies going back decades, and portraits of the winery’s founders. I sampled a Montado white, made from a blend of antāo vaz and sauvignon blanc grapes, that was young, fruity, and easy to drink with or without food. The Montado red, a blend of aragonez, trincadeira, alicante bouschet, and syrah was light on tannins and had a smooth finish. Knowing that the wines had been fermented in the ancient clay pots made me enjoy them even more.

Creativity, gravity, and Antão Vaz

Photo: Mark Orwoll

When it comes to climate change, “I’m not dramatic,” says Reto Frank Jorg, general manager of Quinta do Quetzal winery. “I don’t lose sleep. I’m concerned, but I’m hopeful we will find a solution. And I always wonder what I should do myself, knowing that what I do today won’t have an impact on the wines for six or seven years. We have less rain, but we can irrigate. We don’t use a lot of pesticides or a lot of water, but we have higher temperatures, so we’re growing more syrah and alicante bouschet and less aragonez. But are we on the right road?”

Jorg isn’t alone in his worries. Quetzal, like Cortes de Cima, is in Vidigueira, home to many of Portugal’s most respected wineries, all of which have a lot riding on their success in addressing the changing environment.

Quetzal is decreasing overall energy use by capitalizing on its hilltop location in what may be the prettiest spot in all Alentejo. Vidigueira’s microclimate sees significant heat, but the multi-level winery uses no air-conditioning. Instead, it relies on funneling the cooler temperatures from the building’s lowest level to the rest of the winery, so the temperature is conditioned naturally. The hilltop layout also allows the winery to do much of its work by gravity instead of machinery — unloading the grapes at the highest point, depositing them a level below for crushing and fermentation, then dropping the juice through hoses to aging tanks and barrels in the level below that.

Photo: Mark Orwoll

A clever use of topography isn’t the only reason to visit Quetzal, though. Everything about the place is, well, eclectic. They play classical music in the oak-barrel aging room because they think it benefits the wine. As I walk through the barrel room, I listen to reflective New Age recordings by Scottish singer Susan Philipsz, who composed the chants played in the cellar 24/7. They occasionally even play meditative music in the fields for the benefit of the grapes still on the vine.

Quetzal also has an art gallery, based on the owners’ own art collection; a full-service, award-winning restaurant; and multiple tours, including walks through the herb garden of indigenous Alentejo plants, with ducks, chickens, and peacocks roaming the grounds; opportunities for guests to blend their own wines; vineyard picnics for two; and even just a simple winery visit and tasting.

As for tastings, Quetzal is banking much of its future on the success of the white antão vaz grape (“our main grape,” says Jorg). Recommended to try: Quetzal Riserva White (100 percent antão vaz from the winery’s oldest vineyards). The fun gift shop is full of wines, jams, sardines, chocolate, olive oil, art books, gift boxes, ceramic bowls, and more items redolent of Alentejo.

A story with a happy beginning

Photo: Mark Orwoll

Not all of Alentejo’s wineries are as endangered by climate change.

Quinta da Fonte Souto, for example, is a new winery, since 2017, on an old estate with deep roots in the Portalegre region of the Alta Alentejo, high in the hills near the Spanish frontier. The sprawling hilly property, full of former residential units, ancient warehouses, and miscellaneous outbuildings, all painted the traditional colors of yellow and white, is surrounded by even higher peaks. It’s dramatically different from most of the vineyards you’ll find in Alentejo.

The estate had been partly abandoned after having been a successful farm for hundreds of years. The winery’s parent company, Symington, bought the property so recently that the repairs and renovations of the existing buildings are still ongoing. If you ever wanted to see a winery in start-up mode, as of 2020 this is the one to visit.

As for its beneficent location, “We’re in the first big condensation barrier,” says winemaker José Soarés. “It’s not as hot as the rest of Alentejo, and we get a lot more rain. We’re more than 200 kilometers from the coast, very close to Spain. We have more comfortable conditions. That allows for more balanced levels of water stress [on the grapes].”

This region is particularly well adapted to white grapes, says Soarés. The property consists of 512 acres, with just over half planted with whites.

Although the winery is self-sustaining when it comes to water (they have a small reservoir), the winemakers plan to seek the new Wines of Alentejo sustainability certificate. “We’re very conservative in our use of water,” Soarés says. “We installed a meteorological station to minimize the treatments we do. We have sensors to measure the moisture in the soil. It’s inside the culture of our winery.”

On the day I am there, mist has settled on the surrounding hills like a crown, a light rain refreshes the air, and puddles of water have built up on the floors of a few of the empty buildings we pass through that have not yet been rehabilitated. There’s a former manor house that the owners are thinking of making into an 18-room boutique luxury hotel. Another building, with dual fireplaces and views of a large duck pond and the mountains beyond… who knows? One day it could be a wedding venue. A few other random buildings are still being considered for a restaurant, for an enhanced tasting room, for… something. “We’re not doing things in a hurry,” Soarés says. “It’s a winery in progress.”

Where to stay

It’s possible to visit an Alentejo winery or two on a day-trip from Lisbon. But to get a more in-depth taste of Alentejo’s wineries, one should consider staying at one of the region’s wine hotels (resorts that grow and produce their own wines). I visited two that are not just convenient for touring the region but also offer luxurious accommodations.

Quetzal-Reto winery rep Frank Jorg talking by barrels

São Lourenço do Barrocal is a wine-hotel on a former estate that has been active for some 200 years. You can see the historic hilltop village of Monsaraz in the distance. With just 40 rooms and suites, the lodging is intimate and private. And the history! The current family owned it from 1820 to 1974, so all the buildings are from that period. The socialist government took the property away in the 1970s with the idea of redistributing land and wealth, but the estate remained abandoned for nearly 20 years. The family was able to buy it back in 1992 and reopen it as a resort in 2016 after more than two decades of work to restore its authentic appearance.

Where: São Lourenço do Barrocal, 7200-177, Portugal

Photo: Mark Orwoll

Torre de Palma Wine Hotel was built in 1338 and today is surrounded by the estate’s vineyards, rolling hills, olive groves, and a vast expanse of plains. A tower built in 1358 is the resort’s centerpiece. Four architects collaborated to reimagine the historic buildings and interiors before it opened as a resort in 2015. Two years later, the all-suite Torre de Palma, a member of the Design Hotels group, celebrated its first wine harvest.

Where: Herdade de Torre de Palma, 7450-250, Portugal


More like this: The ultimate guide to Portugal’s top wine routes

The post In Portugal’s Alentejo, wineries battle climate change with creativity appeared first on Matador Network.

Sea stack climbing

“You’re aware that every move could be your last. But you know you’re going to be okay.”

That’s how Iain Miller describes the most difficult ascents he’s accomplished of the eerily beautiful sea stacks that grace Ireland’s treacherous Atlantic coast. Miller has climbed more than 100 sea stacks, over 60 of them on first ascents — making him the world’s most accomplished climber of the strange and mesmerizing rock formations.

Miller first started climbing in his native Orkney Islands, a rugged archipelago off the northern tip of Scotland, but for the last 25 years he’s made his home in Donegal, along the craggy, weather-beaten shores of northwest Ireland. As he tackled the world’s most dangerous sea stacks, Miller’s rising fame drew the interest of others, who reached out to him to get his help in bagging a sea stack of their own — and now Miller has his own business, Unique Ascent, sharing the secrets of this stunning, untamed corner of the world.

Thinking several steps ahead

Photo: Iain Miller

After succeeding in scaling a particularly tough climb, Miller describes the rush that hits him after he’s back in the safety of his car: “A bomb goes off in YOUR head.” It’s a feeling of accomplishment that’s “very hard to replicate any other way.”

Despite the fact that he doesn’t let the achievement get to him until after he’s done, Miller is careful not to describe his singular focus during a climb as just being present in the moment. “Living in the moment is an incredibly dangerous mental state to be in,” opines Miller. When you’re in the moment, he says, you have no past and no future — so you aren’t thinking about consequences.

For Miller, it’s a balance of engaging in the present and realizing the consequences of what you’re doing — thinking several steps ahead. “It’s a game of physical chess,” he says.

Photo: Iain Miller

In sea stack climbing, Miller says the biggest danger is in actually reaching the rock tower in the first place, and then getting back to the shore afterward. After all, the sea stacks are there because of erosion caused by the blistering winds and ferocious swells of the North Atlantic. Massive cliffs, themselves products of erosion, are eaten away by the relentless ocean swells that carve them into peninsulas, then arches, and eventually into sea stacks.

“The sea is trying to drown you,” says Miller. Comparing it to other types of high-risk climbs, he explains, “The sea is the snow and ice of sea stack climbing. It’s the unpredictable variable that keeps it exciting.”

Miller’s knowledge of the ocean is one reason he’s, to our knowledge, the only person on Earth who scales sea stacks for a living. Because he’s been in Donegal so long, he both knows the ocean and knows when to heed its warning. He lives there, so he can wait another day, or even a week if necessary. “If the conditions are not right, you are definitely not going to be doing it,” he says.

But the sea can also be your friend. The farthest Miller has fallen climbing a sea stack is 60 feet. Because he landed in the water, and it was deep enough, Miller was unhurt. Sea stack rocks can break off, he explains. They’re made mostly of sandstone and quartz, softer materials that can test any climber.

Planning a climb for a day — or years

Photo: Iain Miller

Despite the risks, Miller rejects the idea that he is participating in a “lunatic fringe” sport. “I’m not a daredevil,” he says. Rather, he considers the conditions of the sea and weather, the state of the rock he intends to climb, and how to manage the descent in a mental checklist before ever climbing a sea stack. “You have to check off the boxes,” he says.

Miller might see a relatively attainable sea stack and reach its peak the same day. For more challenging rock towers, Miller says he might visit it a couple of times to truly understand it, before resolving to begin his ascent. Miller feels confident in his assessment that he’s been first to reach the peak of well over 50 sea stacks because, upon reaching the top, there’s been no sign of any previous climber. The only way to get back down is by rappelling, and there’s nary a bolt nor any other sign that someone else has done so.

As for his first free solo of the 330-foot-high Cnoc na Mara back in 2008, Miller says the preparation took his entire climbing career up to that point. The sea is particularly ferocious there, and the climbs entails a 3.7-mile round-trip across it. There’s no margin for error in climbing straight up from the sea, traversing a sliver of a ledge 300 feet above the water, and scaling an impossibly narrow, loose-rock wall. Miller has of course also bagged Ireland’s tallest sea stack, the 148-meter-tall (468 feet) Tormore Island.

Sharing Donegal’s wild beauty

Photo: Iain Miller

Miller’s success earned him admirers, and in 2010, he was approached by someone who wanted to book him for an entire week to explore Ireland’s wild coastline. He’s been taking out clients ever since.

Depending on how much time they’ve reserved and their experience, Miller just might take them out to some of the very challenging sea stacks that he first free soloed — only this time they’ll be prepared with bolts, ropes, and all the necessary climbing equipment. Miller says 80 to 90 percent of his clients have never rock-climbed before, so he also offers classes in the sport.

As Miller is first to point out, his clients soon learn that reaching the sea stack can be as scary, and thrilling, as actually climbing it. Sometimes a Tyrolean traverse — getting from point A to B by shimmying along a rope, like a slow-motion zip line — is the only way to get across a particularly gnarly stretch of sea.

Miller also takes clients kayaking to sea caves where pools of water glow with the midday sun of summer, or paddling through tunnels etched through remote islands. He may take them spelunking in a place like Owey Island, where they squeeze through a narrow opening in the rocks in a descent to a lake 150 feet below ground.

Really experiencing the Wild Atlantic Way

Photo: Iain Miller

There’s probably no one as familiar with the many nooks and crannies of Donegal’s craggy coastline as Miller, and he’s thrilled to share its rugged beauty with others. His timing is perfect, since even more travelers to Ireland are coming precisely for its untamed scenery. Many want to explore some portion of 1,500-mile-long Wild Atlantic Way along western Ireland; Donegal lies near the north end of it.

But with Miller, you can do more than take pictures of that awe-inspiring coastline. You can touch it, smell it, climb it, and even go inside of it. “It’s not castles, shamrocks, and Guinness,” he says. “It’s the raw nature of the wild Atlantic coast.”

Photo: Iain Miller

Discovering and tackling Donegal’s shoreside mysteries can only be done in the months from March to October, says Miller. It’s some time in March that the Atlantic changes from its winter mode to its summer mode, and the dangerous swells that define it in the colder months give way to the sea’s much calmer temperament.

Miller also assures us that the tours he takes guests on are safe, even though many of them get worked up about it ahead of time. “In their heads, they are putting themselves in danger. But they’re not,” he says.

The thrills come instead, says Miller, when you find yourself paddling next to basking sharks, when a group of seals swims underneath you, and when you explore uninhabited islands. “These are the moments that are not planned,” says Miller. And for many travelers, they end up being the highlights of their trip to Ireland.


More like this: The best breaks in Ireland’s booming surf scene

The post The world’s foremost sea stack climber will show you Ireland’s wild side appeared first on Matador Network.

Airbnb launches contest

Airbnb listings offer some very unusual living spaces and travelers love them. According to Airbnb, searches for unique living spaces like windmills, huts, and tiny houses have increased by nearly 70 percent over the last year.

Photo: Airbnb

To make sure the short-term rental platform keeps up with the high demand for unique accommodations, it is launching a $1 million fund to finance some of the world’s most unique living spaces.

Design enthusiasts are being encouraged to submit their unique home proposals to the website for the Unique Airbnb Fund, with all submissions scored on creativity, feasibility, sustainability, and social good (i.e. the advantages of the home for travelers, neighbors, and the community it is located in). The goal of the project is to allow anyone with an unconventional house idea to bring the project to fruition, and make it available to travelers.

Photo: Airbnb

Ten winners of the Unique Airbnb Fund will be awarded $100,000 each, and will be chosen by a panel of style and design experts, including Grammy Award-winning actor Billy Porter, Airbnb Superhost Kristie Wolfe of the Big Idaho Potato Hotel, and architecture firm MVRDV.

You can enter the Unique Airbnb Fund contest from now through noon ET on April 15. Winners of the coveted $100,000 will be chosen by May 15.


More like this: The 25 most spectacular hotels in the world: 2020

The post Airbnb launches contest with $1 million prize for the most unique home design ideas appeared first on Matador Network.

Olympic villages you can still visit

Hosting the Olympic Games is considered as much a privilege as it is an economic boon for host cities. Yet year after year, cities strive to outdo previous hosts with increasingly extravagant ceremonies and expensive facilities, often outspending what they stand to gain in Olympic-driven revenue. Beijing famously spent nearly half a billion dollars to build its iconic Birds Nest stadium for the 2008 summer games — which costs another $11 million annually to maintain — only to bring in a trickle of tour groups every year since.

Yet there are places for Olympic enthusiasts to sample some of the games’ history as we (hopefully) gear up for the Tokyo games this summer. (Editor’s Note: The future of the games is still up in the air due to the coronavirus outbreak.)

Several former hosts have managed to weave their Olympic history into their current identity nearly seamlessly, repurposing old facilities so visitors can relive the city’s gloried past. What these destinations did right when winning their respective bids is to prioritize the needs of the city and its inhabitants over any ego-driven pomp and circumstance. Many cautionary tales have resulted in Olympic ghost towns — a symbol of well-meaning but shortsighted estimations of what was really needed. Like the proverbial lightbulb, the Olympic torch should shine a light on a shared vision for the future — like how Paris is using its pre-Olympic preparations to reinvent itself with urban green spaces and unique tourist experiences that will live long past the closing ceremony in 2024. If future hosts follow suit, the Olympics could be the catalyst we need to create a better future for our favorite urban playgrounds.

As the spotlight on sustainability in athletics continues to strengthen, future Olympic cities can look to these former hosts for a more enduring development model. The rest of us can just go for a little Olympic-level entertainment.

1. Athens, Greece (1896 and 2004)

Photo: Borisb17/Shutterstock

Home to the first modern Olympic games in 1896, Athens’ history with the Olympic tradition goes back several millennia. Thousands of years ago, athletes from across the ancient Greek Empire congregated in Athens to compete in its Panathenaia celebrations — a bit like today’s games only with far less clothing. In tribute to its storied past, every four years the Olympic torch is lit at the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens before beginning its long journey to the new host city. Visitors can walk through the Olympic Velodrome in the Olympic Sports Complex and step back in time at the 50,000-seat stadium, the only arena made entirely of marble, and imagine what that first opening ceremony of our modern Olympic games might have been like.

2. Lillehammer, Norway (1994)

Photo: Madrugada Verde/Shutterstock

One of the best examples of sustained winter tourism resulting from the Olympic games is in Lillehammer, Norway, host to the 1994 games. Only two hours from Oslo by train, Lillehammer is the ideal side-trip from the city to sample winter sports amid some seriously scenic Nordic landscapes. Visitors can cross-country ski through the same pine-forested valleys from which Birkebeins famously saved the two-year-old heir to the Norweigan throne — an important event in Norway’s history commemorated on the Lillehammer coat of arms. From atop the ski slopes at Hafjell, downhill skiers will recognize the outline of an Olympic torch-bearer, carved through the pines on the mountainside. In the summer, the torch-man mountain is busy with hikers making their way to the tip of his revered flame. The short winter days here mean the sky is always awash with the golden hues of a rising or setting sun, almost like an homage to the time the torch was lit.

3. Barcelona, Spain (1992)

Photo: Balky79/Shutterstock

These days Barcelona is among the world’s most visited cities even without Olympic fame, but that wasn’t always the case. The 1992 Summer Olympics served as a sort of debutante ball for the coastal Catalan city, which totally transformed itself with a spectacular array of waterfront architecture and two miles of brand-new beachfront. Today the same beautiful beaches are among Barcelona’s biggest draw for tourists to the city, and are lined with spots to share some fresh seafood tapas. The telecommunications tower built for the games by Spanish architect Calatrava is also an iconic fixture of the city’s skyline, and its Olympics stadium regularly hosts A-list musical acts like The Rolling Stones, Madonna, and Beyonce.

4. St. Moritz, Switzerland (1924 and 1948)

Photo: Stefano Politi/Shutterstock

Appropriately, the town that invented Alpine tourism has hosted the Winter Olympics twice, and continues to make use of its many sporting facilities — if you can afford to get there. The high-society ski town is among the most aspirational destinations in the Swiss Alps, thanks to its famous — and famously wealthy — patrons. It’s not hard to see why. No matter where you look, the deceptively quaint town and its picturesque, snow-laden structures are framed by gigantic, almost ghostly snow-covered Alps. The view only gets better on the slopes of nearby Corviglia, which can be accessed by gondola followed by — what else? — a horse-drawn carriage. Stay at the Kulm Hotel for easiest access to the Kulm Country Club, where guests can skate on the same lake used by mid-century Olympians, or test your courage on the Olympia Bob Run, one of the few places where you can ride a full-speed Olympic bobsled on a run constructed entirely of ice.

5. Sydney, Australia (2000)

Photo: Photoholgic/Shutterstock

The turn-of-the-century Sydney Games were designated the “Green Games” by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) and were designed to introduce a more environmentally conscious way of hosting the event. The structure that best exemplifies Sydney’s efforts to be an example of sustainable Olympic development is the ANZ Stadium. Originally able to accommodate 118,000 opening ceremony attendees, it was intentionally designed to be downsized after the games to a more sustainable 85,000 seating capacity. Today, the stadium remains one of the most environmentally friendly arenas in the world and continues to play host to major international sporting events like the FIFA World Cup Qualifiers.


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