Matador Network's Blog, page 848

June 1, 2020

New TSA social distancing food rules

In late May, the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) released new guidelines for passengers that reduced the amount of contact agents have with people and their belongings. Agents won’t touch boarding passes anymore, for example, and small personal items have to be put in carry-on bags instead of bins now. Also, for the foreseeable future, the TSA wants passengers to treat all food and snacks the same way as liquids.


The updated procedures require everyone to put carry-on food into a clear plastic bag and put it in a bin before screening. A TSA press release states that food can “often trigger an alarm during the screening process,” which would lead to a TSA officer having to pull the bag and inspect the food. These types of interactions are, to say the least, not an ideal fit with the social distancing recommendations in the era of COVID-19.


The TSA made these types of food requests in 2018 as well, though there was a varying level of enforcement at airports across the country because it was more of a recommendation. At the time, TSA spokesperson Mike England told the Washington Post that food can look like explosives in the scanners, hence the manual search requirement.


“It is the container or wrapper, not the food,” Jeff Hall, a senior consultant at the information security and privacy company Wesbey Associates, says via email. “I have been stopped a number of times in the precheck line due to the aluminum coated wrappers on my ThinkThin protein bars. Since the x-ray machine cannot see through the metallic wrapper, it looks like contraband or, worse, explosives.”


The TSA uses computed tomography (CT) to scan bags at most major airports. The machines operate similar to medical CT scanners, by creating a 3D image of objects inside a case. The image shows the mass and density of objects in the bag. Major deployment of CT scanners only started in 2018, though, so some airports still rely on machines that use 2D images that require more manual searches when an unidentified object, food or otherwise, passes through.


“Any food that is wrapped in a foil wrapper or bag creates a potential issue because x-rays cannot penetrate the wrapper/bag,” Hall writes. “This can include potato chips and other snack foods as well as some candy bars and, of course, my protein bars. If you put anything wrapped in aluminum foil or an aluminized baggie, that can also trigger a manual review of your luggage.”


So for the time being, try to squeeze all your snacks into a clear plastic bag before heading to the airport. Just make sure those snacks are on the approved food list.


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Published on June 01, 2020 11:30

South Africa closed for tourism

Countries around the world are gradually reopening their borders, to attempt to salvage the summer tourism season. Greece just announced that it will welcome tourists from all over the world as soon as June 15; Portugal will reopen to travelers from the Schengen Area (except nearby Spain and Italy), as well as the US, Canada, and Brazil in June; and Iceland will reopen to travelers on June 15 with a free COVID-19 test on arrival. South Africa, however, is taking a much more cautious approach.


Level 3 of South Africa’s lockdown plan begins on June 1, allowing certain tourism-related businesses to reopen.


After a joint meeting of South Africa’s Department of Tourism, Portfolio Committee on Tourism, and the Select Committee on Trade and Industry, Economic Development, Small Business Development, Tourism, Employment and Labour, Africa News reported that domestic tourism isn’t slated to return to the country until December 2020, and international tourism won’t resume until February 2021.


A Tourism Recovery Plan is being drafted by the Portfolio Committee to help local economies endure a summer and fall without tourism.


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Published on June 01, 2020 11:00

Greece opening borders to all travel

Following European border reopenings is an emotional roller coaster for eager international travelers. Last week, Greece announced that it would open its borders from June 15 to citizens of select countries that were deemed low-risk. This past weekend it issued a clarification that all travelers will be welcome, regardless of nationality, with rules varying depending on airport of origin.


Starting on June 15 until the 30th, travelers coming from an airport listed by the European Union Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) as high-risk will be tested on arrival at either Athens or Thessaloniki airport. If positive, the travelers will quarantine under supervision for 14 days. If negative, they must self-quarantine for seven days. Starting on July 1, however, travelers coming from airports on the EASA’s list of affected areas will be able to arrive at any Greek airport and all testing will be random regardless of airport of origin.


Travelers coming from countries and airports not on the EASA list will be allowed to enter the country from June 15 subject only to random tests upon arrival.


Arrivals by land from Albania, Bulgaria, and North Macedonia will be allowed starting on June 15. Visitors crossing Greece’s land border will be subject to random tests upon arrival, as will arrivals by sea, which will be permitted starting on July 1.


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Published on June 01, 2020 10:00

What to see at the V&A

There is no shortage of museum offerings in London — the British Museum, the National History Museum, the National Gallery, etc., all contain extraordinary pieces worth checking out. But while your options are abundant, we don’t recommend that you cram your visit to the British capital with museum visits — they’ll eventually all blend into one and the whole thing will bore your socks off. Instead, just pick one that suits your interests and explore extensively.


If you’re not a regular museum-goer or don’t think you’ll enjoy looking at archaeological finds, paintings, or fossils all day, the Victoria and Albert Museum is probably the best choice for you. The V&A focuses on art and design and provides visitors with an immense collection of stunning objects from around the world, from quirky ceramic pieces to cool items of fashion, glitzy jewelry, funky furniture, ornate architecture, and more. There’s enough variety to keep you amazed and interested throughout an entire day, but if you want to make your visit count, you’d better get organized. To make sure you get to see the most important pieces on display away from the crowds and check out some fascinating, yet underrated items, we’ve compiled some hot tips on how to make the most of your one-day visit at the Victoria and Albert Museum.






Before you go: the #1 piece of advice for visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum
The best times to visit
Free tours
Where to start your visit
Five must-see pieces and collections and why they matter
Most underrated pieces and galleries to check out
What you can skip
What you didn’t know





Before you go: the #1 piece of advice for visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum
Gamble room at the Victoria and Albert Museum

Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum/Facebook


Plan your museum visit around your eating schedule. Have breakfast at your accommodation before the museum opens at 10:00 AM, and stay in when your stomach starts growling. Most museum cafes have the reputation of being overpriced and serving mediocre food, but that’s not at all the case at the V&A. So don’t go galavanting around South Kensington for a cheap meal, because you have some great options and the best atmosphere right in the museum.


The coffee is excellent — especially paired with a large scone lavished in clotted cream and jam — and there are delicious pastries, fancy salads, sandwiches, hot food, and cakes that are high quality. And even if the items on the menu don’t appeal to you, we urge you to grab a drink, if just for the chance to sit in one of the period rooms of the world’s oldest museum restaurant.


Forgo the Courtyard Café or the Garden Café — even if the weather is splendid — and make a beeline for the Gamble Room, the Poynter Room, and the William Morris Room. The highly decorated rooms, with ornate columns, arches, ceramic tiles, chandeliers, stunning organic designs, stained glass, and more, are not your average cafe settings — they’re dazzling pieces of art in and of themselves.


Note that the museum offers visitors the chance to have a recreation of Queen Victoria’s afternoon tea in the Morris Room every Friday between 1:00 PM and 7:00 PM. Reservations are mandatory, but it’s worth planning in advance.



The best times to visit
Grand entrance of the Victoria and Albert Museum

Photo: Aivita Arika/Shutterstock


Like all the free and popular museums in London, the V&A can get busy. Arrive before it opens its doors at 10:00 AM and join the line. Don’t be alarmed by the number of people waiting to get in — the museum is immense and visitors tend to spread out quite evenly, which provides space for everyone. Long weekend and summer holidays are the busiest times of the year, so visiting on a weekday off season is always recommended if you’re able to do so.


Dale Chihuly sculpture at Victoria and Albert Museum London

Photo: pio3/Shutterstock


The museum has two entrances, the grand, traditional entrance on Cromwell Road and the more contemporary one on Exhibition Road. Both are similarly busy, but remember to check both of them. The grand entrance leads visitors just below the dome from where one of Dale Chihuly’s magnificent sculptures hangs; the Cromwell entrance is through remodeled arches and via a modern porcelain-tiled public courtyard.


The museum closes at 5:45 PM daily, except on Fridays when selected galleries remain open until 10:00 PM. Night visits can be busy, but they offer visitors the opportunity to see the objects under a different light and in a unique atmosphere.



Free tours

Upon entering the museum, and before heading quickly to the jewelry gallery to have it all to yourself (see below), check out the schedule for the free tours. The daily free tours and their starting times are listed on screens at each entrance, but all of them start under the dome (Cromwell Road entrance), on the left, beyond the front desk and before entering the gift shop. There’s a seating area where visitors who want to go on the tours are expected to wait.


There’s a free tour almost every half hour throughout the day and they’re all led by volunteer experts who know the museum and its collection inside out. All of them are fascinating and will give you great background details on the museum and its galleries. The tours vary in topics, so you can select whatever you’re most interested in, such as general introductory tours of the museum, the performance and theatre collections, the Middle Ages, and more. You can take as many tours as you’d like.


Some tours only take place weekly or monthly, such as the LGBTQ tour that takes place one Saturday per month and the Fashion in Focus tour that happens every Thursday, so check the list online before your visit.



Where to start your visit
The jewellery gallery at the Victoria and Albert museum London

Photos: Victoria and Albert Museum/Victoria and Albert Museum


We highly recommend that you start your visit at one of the busiest parts of the museum before it fills in. The jewelry gallery comprises three rooms filled to the brim with a collection of 3,500 jewels spanning 3,000 years of history. Even if you’re not into shiny things, you’ll appreciate the craftsmanship and history of every single piece in this gallery that is decorated in dark tones and very dimly lit so that the precious items truly shine. There are brooches, hair ornaments, collars, pendants, crowns, and more, all more beautiful and ornate than the next. The real showstopper is the Townshend Gems collection, however, which is a display of rings arranged in a hypnotizing spiral. The jewelry gallery is narrow and extremely popular, so make your way there as soon as you get into the museum and you might just be the first person to admire Queen Victoria’s sapphire and diamond coronet and Beyoncé’s giant butterfly ring.


Where to find it: Level 2, Rooms 91 to 93



Five must-see pieces and collections and why they matter

There are more than 60,000 objects on display at the V&A, so seeing them all and appreciating their significance in the space of one day is impossible. Here, we have selected five pieces that we believe are must-sees, two of which are listed in the museum’s “20 highlights from the collection” brochure. Once you’ve checked these out, have a look at some underrated pieces (see below) and wander about without any itinerary — there are treasures to be found in every corner of the museum.


1. Tipu’s Tiger
Tipu’s Tiger at the Victoria and Albert Museum

Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum/Facebook


A piece that is both morbid and fun, Tipu’s Tiger is an incredibly well-preserved wooden automaton made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore, India, at the end of the 18th century. The object depicts a man, believed to be European soldier, being savagely attacked by a tiger. Inside the tiger is an organ that can be played, and when one cranks the handle on the tiger, the man moans and moves his arms around in what looks like an agonizing death. The piece sheds light on the relationship between Tipu Sultan and the soldiers of the British East India Company army whom he resisted vehemently before the British victory in 1799. The automaton was taken from his palace and sent to London that same year.


Where to find it: Level 0, Room 41, South Asia gallery


2. Trajan’s Column
Trajan's Column

Photos: Alex Segre/Alex Segre


Trajan’s Column is probably the biggest and most impressive piece to be found at the V&A. It’s so big that it was cut into two enormous halves, 82 feet each, to fit. Although the column looks like the real deal, it’s a 19th-century plaster cast of the original. The original, created to commemorate the victory of the Roman Emperor Trajan against the Dacian, was erected in 113 CE in Rome, where it still stands today, more than 1,900 years later. The column is an object of immense precision as more than 155 scenes of war are depicted upon it in a spiraling fashion. It’s hard to make them all out, but the carving work is so intricate that it’s worth taking the time to appreciate it.


Where to find it: Level 0, Room 46A, Cast Courts gallery


3. The Ardabil Carpet
The Ardabil Carpet

Photos: 3DF mediaStudio/Shutterstock and Victoria and Albert Museum/Facebook


While looking at a rug may not sound like the most exciting museum activity there is, we’re certain that staring at the Ardabil Carpet for a few minutes will blow your mind.


The carpet was created between 1539 and 1540 CE in Iran and is thought to be the world’s oldest dated carpet and one of the largest. It is believed to have been created to decorate the shrine of Sheikh Safi al-Din Ardabili.


The work put into displaying the carpet is proportional to its beauty and importance. Wrapped in a large rectangular case partially made of glass for museum-goers to observe it with ease, the carpet is lit for 10 minutes every hour and a half to preserve its colors created from natural dyes. Plan your visit to this part of the museum carefully; if you arrive a little early, you may be able to score a seat in front of the case, so you can examine the carpet and read all about its background details from one of the booklets at your disposal. Of course, we do recommend that you walk around the carpet while it’s lit to get a full picture of the magnificent object.


Where to find it: Level 0, Room 42, Islamic Middle East gallery


4. “Strawberry Thief” by William Morris
Strawberry Thief by William Morris at the Victoria and Albert Museum

Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum/Facebook


William Morris is one of the great names of art and design of 19th-century England and one that is found again and again at the V&A. One of the leaders of the Arts and Crafts movement, Morris advocated for handmade, decorative objects while the country was in the middle of the Industrial Revolution, which started manufacturing similar objects of poor quality in great quantity. His focus on organic patterns — flowers, leaves, trees — is in stark contrast to the newly created machines of the time, and reflect his desire to counter the ills of the advancing technology. The V&A has many of his pieces, such as textiles and wallpapers, two mediums he is extremely famous for, as well as tiles, book designs, and more. “Strawberry Thief” is his most famous design and one of great beauty; it depicts thrushes on strawberry plants in a heavily colored and busy pattern on furnishing textile. The design, as well as many other Morris creations, is still sought after to this day in wallpapers and other home decoration items and comes at a high price. The museum gift shop carries items bearing his creations for those who wish to have a Morris design at home without breaking the bank.


Where to find them: Level 3, Room 125, Britain (1760-1900) gallery


5. The fashion collection
Mantua dress at the Victoria and Albert Museum London

Photo: Victoria and Albert Museum/Facebook


While some may think that fashion is a frivolous topic, as one of the most significant vehicles for art and design, it’s an essential part of the V&A. The entire fashion collection of the museum is stunning and it would be a mistake to pass on it just because you don’t think it’s worth your while. Spanning five centuries, the collection contains shoes, hats, bags, suits, and dresses of all shapes, colors, and sizes that are sure to leave you amused, gobsmacked, and inspired. Visitors’ favorites include “mantua” dresses, i.e. large, cumbersome dresses worn in the 18th century, and Alexander McQueen’s “Plato’s Atlantis” silk dress. The fashion collection is small, but impressive, so devote some time to it. Note that it is a busy room of the museum, so the earlier you get there, the better.


Where to find it: Level 1, Room 40



Most underrated pieces and galleries to check out
1. “Breathless” by Cornelia Parker
Breathless by Cornelia Parker at the Victoria and Albert Museum

Photo: BBA Photography/Shutterstock


You’ll need to climb all the way to the third level to see this contemporary installation from above, but it’s worth every step. Composed of 54 wind instruments squished flat and hung from wires in a circular way from a large opening in the floor, “Breathless” is one of the coolest modern pieces in the museum and one of our favorites. Although well-known, it’s rarely noticed by first-time visitors, so you’ll almost certainly have the viewing spot to yourself. When you’re done seeing it from above, go down one floor and observe it from below. You’ll notice that the instruments are polished when seen from above and tarnished when seen from below, which is the artist commenting on the idea of upper and lower class, among other things.


Where to find it: Level 3, Room 121, Britain gallery


2. The whole ceramic gallery
ceramic gallery

Photos: Victoria and Albert Museum/Victoria and Albert Museum


We highly recommend visitors to make the trip to the fourth level of the museum and check out the entire ceramic gallery. You’ll likely be on your own up there and you won’t regret what you’ll get to see in silence and solitude. From funky teapots to figures, plates, cups, sculptures, vases and more, the ceramic collection is staggering and covers just about every country in the world and spans 2,500 years of history. You’ll have fun and be amazed at the variety of designs created over the years to make kitchenware stand out. Once up there, look up inside the highest cupola to see “Signs and Wonders,” the beautiful installation created by Edmund de Waal, Britain’s most renowned contemporary ceramist and famous author of historical fiction novel The Hare with Amber Eyes.


Where to find it: Level 4, Rooms 136 to 146



What you can skip

Every single piece displayed at the V&A is of historical significance and the result of unmeasurable talent, and as such, the entire collection is worth seeing. That said, we all have our preferences. If you’re not into the art of photography, just forgo the Photography Center (Rooms 100 and 101 on the second level), or if you don’t have any affinity for ironwork or metalware, don’t bother visiting these sections (113, 114A-B-C-D-E on the second level). We recommend that you check out the map of the museum before you go so you can plan according to your interests, likes, and dislikes. Maps are available at the entrances so get yourself a copy so you can navigate your favored areas of the museum easily.



What you didn’t know
Victoria Albert museum gift shop

Photo: TK Kurikawa/Shutterstock


The V&A has the best museum gift shops we’ve ever seen. There are some silly knick-knacks (William Morris-inspired hair ties with dangling strawberries and plushy Queen Victoria Christmas ornaments, for example), but most of the items are tasteful and actually related to the objects on display. There’s a large selection of prints and postcards so you can take some of your favorite pieces home for little money; there’s also a great array of jewelry and fashion items, like shawls and hats, at various price points, for those who enjoyed what they saw in the jewelry or fashion galleries or in one of the temporary exhibitions where fashion is often the focus. The book selection is also amazing, with an entire gift shop dedicated to art and design literature. And, our favorite, for those on a small budget, are the museum-branded artsy and colorful tote bags — those are sure to show off just how chic and cultured you are, wherever you go.


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Published on June 01, 2020 09:30

Get paid, hike the AT and drink beer

Among ways to spend your summer, getting paid to hike the Appalachian Trail and drink beer is up there. Virginia-based Devils Backbone Brewing Company is looking to pay someone to serve as Chief Hiking Officer (CHO), which entails drinking beer while hiking the Appalachian Trail.


The CHO will be paid $20,000 to hike through 14 states along the Appalachian Trail next spring. Their responsibilities will include hiking the trail from Georgia to Maine and sharing views from the trail on social media, all while enjoying Devil’s Backbone beer.


To qualify for the position, you must love hiking and beer, be capable of hiking 2,200 miles, and be at least 21 years old. And your efforts certainly won’t go unrewarded. In addition to $20,000, your backpacking gear will be paid for, you’ll get to assist with “product research” (i.e. drink free beer), and you’ll receive a variety of Devils Backbone merchandise.


To apply, fill out the form on the Devils Backbone website, explaining why you’re passionate about hiking the Appalachian Trail in 2021. Applications are open through July 31, 2020. If chosen, you’ll have quite some time to prepare, as the position doesn’t start until next spring.


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Published on June 01, 2020 08:30

May 29, 2020

Studio Ghibli film settings

HBO Max launched this week, adding to its catalogue nearly every movie made by legendary Japanese animation house Studio Ghibli. Now is the perfect time to binge these classic films, which are infused with magic and adventure, and celebrate the immense power of the imagination to bring not just joy but also refuge from fear and loneliness. The grand cities in which these tales take place might be fictional (in most cases), but their foundation is multicultural, drawing from the architecture and fashion of cities all over the world.


Hayao Miyazaki is notoriously anti-war. Most Studio Ghibli films speak out against violence and, in particular, the trauma and heartbreak it inflicts on children. Some of these films do have a distinct sense of place: Grave of the Fireflies, directed by Isao Takahata, who co-founded the animation studio with Miyazaki, for instance, follows a pair of orphaned siblings in Kobe, Japan, as they attempt to survive after their home is firebombed during World War II. Perhaps the most famous Studio Ghibli film, My Neighbor Totoro, the story of two sisters who befriend a friendly forest spirit after their mother falls ill, takes place in Tokorozawa, Japan. And the setting for Princess Monoke is allegedly the Shiratani Unsuikyō forest, a World Heritage site on Yakushima island.


Photo: Studio Ghibli


All Studio Ghibli films are also rooted in a distinct Japanese aesthetic. One aspect of that overarching aesthetic is of course kawaii, the Japanese concept of cuteness, into which Totoro neatly falls with his fluffy, squishy body and perfectly circular eyes. Totoro is the best example, but Calcifer, the blob-like fire demon with the high-pitched voice that powers Howl’s titular moving castle, could be considered kawaii. So could Jiji, the black cat companion who steals the show in Kiki’s Delivery Service.


Wabi-sabi, the Japanese aesthetic principles that celebrate imperfection, impermanence, simplicity, and intimacy, among other concepts, might also be a guiding force behind Studio Ghibli films.


In his book The Japanese Art of Impermanence, Andrew Juniper writes, “If an object or expression can bring about, within us, a sense of serene melancholy and a spiritual longing, then that object could be said to be wabi-sabi.” The bouquet of pink flowers gifted to Chichiro when she moves away from home in Spirited Away (inspired by the deities of Shinto and Buddhist folklore and replete with Meiji period architecture), which she clings to as a reminder of her old friends, and the red radio that Kiki’s father gives her before she leaves home seem to nod toward the principles of wabi-sabi. Both are simple but treasured items that reflect the fleeting nature of childhood, significant transitions in the lives of the characters, and the intimate bonds between loved ones that are tested throughout both films.


Photo: Studio Ghibli


The way that Studio Ghibli films interpret home also seems to fit into this philosophical worldview: Wabi can sometimes be defined as “rustic simplicity,” which also connotes solitude. Consider the painter Urusla’s home in the woods in Kiki’s Delivery Service, where she communes with nature and contemplates her artwork. Or Howl’s castle, a steampunk multi-level home constructed from steel, wood, old tires, and metal cranes that walks on stilts, belching black smoke from multiple smoke stacks. It embodies transience and imperfection because it is made from found, moving parts cobbled together to make a whole. As Richard Powell writes in his book Wabi Sabi Simple, “nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.”


The philosophical and spiritual principles that guide Japanese culture are an essential part of the formula that makes Studio Ghibli films so masterful. However, the animation house has a distinctly international view point, imbuing many of its films with a pan-European atmosphere.


Photo: Studio Ghibli


The opening scenes of Howl’s Moving Castle, for instance, evoke World War I-era Europe: Broad shouldered soldiers in starched uniforms sporting handlebar mustaches march through the streets, conjuring up images of perhaps French, German, or even Austrian soldiers. The architecture feels more Parisian — a canal runs through the neighborhood where the protagonist, Sophie, mends hats for a living. Meanwhile, the high-collared, floor-length dresses and sun hats worn by the women characters would place the film somewhere in the 1870s — long before World War I. That the story itself is based on a book by Welsh writer Diana Wynne Jones adds another layer of complexity.


Howl’s Moving Castle, in other words, moves through cities, cultures, and timelines like Howl himself moves between realms with his magic doors.


In addition to the clear homages to Europe in Howl’s Moving Castle, the setting for Kiki’s Delivery Service draws from European cities near water. Miyazaki researched the film by traveling to Sweden. The resulting fictional city of Koriko is a mashup of Lisbon, Paris, San Francisco, Milan, and Stockholm. Miyzaki later said the seaside town is bordered by the Mediterranean and Baltic seas. Notably, the film takes place in an alternate universe in which World War I and World War II never took place.


Photo: Studio Ghibli


A lesser known, but equally enjoyable Studio Ghibli film, Porco Rosso, follows a once-human Italian fighter pilot who was transformed into a pig during World War I. The story contains a sequence in Milan, and Porco Rosso’s hideout is supposed to be on the Croatian shoreline, while much of the in-flight action takes place over the Adriatic Sea.


Japan has of course served as muse to Studio Ghibli. Yet Miyazaki also pays homage to the buildings, homes, cars, even bakeries of European cities without losing his sense of what home and family should look and feel like. The artistry and magic behind these films is that they are imbued with a sense of timelessness in a fantasy world that is both inclusive and entirely distinctive. Studio Ghibli films transport you to a world that feels familiar, not just in its setting but in its feelings — of childhood and longing and love — but that will leave you tingling from the lasting spell they cast on your imagination.


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Published on May 29, 2020 17:15

Travel after changing Hong Kong laws

On May 28, the Chinese government in Beijing signaled that it would press for and enforce new security laws in Hong Kong. Once enacted, which could happen as soon as June, Beijing will better be able to control the judicial system in Hong Kong, as well as curb anti-government protests and other civil liberties. Beijing deems the changes necessary to control dissent and threats to national security.


The move has been widely rebuked by foreign governments, including the United States and Canada, on both civil liberties and economic fronts. With far more relaxed visa requirements than the Chinese mainland and a capitalist economy that, by and large, speaks fluent English, the city is the initial point of arrival for many Westerners visiting Asia for the first time. By imposing China’s will on Hong Kong’s democratic freedoms, the laws threaten the integrity of the “One Country, Two Systems” policy put in place when Hong Kong was returned to China from Britain in 1997. Local protesters have once again taken to the streets in droves and have been met with force by Hong Kong police.


While the exact impacts of the security laws on residents and travelers likely won’t be known until mid-summer, here’s what we know so far.


Note: This story will be updated as developments occur.


How the announcement might affect visas for US and EU citizens

Photo: Wang Sing/Shutterstock


Currently, valid US passport holders can enter Hong Kong and stay up to 90 days visa-free. Early indicators show that tourists are unlikely to experience much in the way of immediate logistical changes. However, President Donald Trump’s announcement on May 29 that Hong Kong is no longer sufficiently “autonomous” from China, and any resulting tariffs, sanctions, or other actions taken could easily lead to tit-for-tat restrictions on trade, visas, and other established practices that currently flow freely between the US and Hong Kong. As of May 29, no visa is required for stays in Hong Kong for fewer than 90 days, while travel to mainland China still requires a visa before arrival.


If the US were to suspend or alter visa approvals for any segment of Hong Kongers, Hong Kong or Beijing is likely to do the same, meaning the standing “no visa necessary” policy for US citizens arriving in Hong Kong could be altered or invalidated altogether.


EU residents visiting Hong Kong are less likely to see impacts to travel plans in the coming months because Brussels has stated that it will not pursue action against Beijing.


“We will continue trying to put pressure on the China authorities in order to make them aware that this issue will affect the way we deal with some of the issues of mutual interests,” said EU foreign policy chief Josep Borrell at a press conference, as reported on by the South China Morning Post. “But there is nothing more on the agenda.”


How international flights and transportation could be impacted

Hong Kong is unique in that, because the city is a Special Administrative Region of China with independent visa policies and economic systems, all incoming and departing flights to Hong Kong International Airport are international flights. As such, all passengers must pass through immigration upon arriving. The process of flying into and out of the city is not expected to change, unless changes are made to the visa system.


The same is true for those arriving via the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge, which connects the three cities via an oversea highway. Those arriving via ferry to Hong Kong Macao Ferry Terminal will also continue to pass through immigration on both sides and will be subject to any current visa requirements.


Shopping, dining, and lodging

As far as shopping, dining, and lodging in Hong Kong goes, the only major change would come if Hong Kong discontinued to peg the Hong Kong dollar to the US dollar, which has stood at 7.8 HKD to 1 USD since 1983. Trump may change this as part of any action taken due to the city no longer having its “autonomous” status. If so, the US dollar could more rapidly lose or gain value in comparison to the Hong Kong Dollar. The SCMP reported that Hong Kong does not need US approval to maintain the peg, however, making it unlikely that the cost of travel to Hong Kong from the US or the cost of expenses on the ground would change much anytime soon. Rather, due to decreased tourism numbers, flights and lodging could drop.


The on-the-ground experience

This is where a trip to Hong Kong is going to be noticeably different. The on-the-ground experience is likely to have a more tense vibe than it would have if you’d visited before June 2019 when the protests against an extradition bill — a months-long series of street protests that, despite resulting in the withdrawal of the unpopular extradition bill, have triggered this security law — began. Travel to the city has declined significantly since last summer. Because of its democratic sympathies and status as a global financial center, Hong Kong is among the world’s most international cities. It saw more than 65 million tourists in 2018, but the Wall Street Journal reported in September 2019 that the country had suffered a 41 percent drop in tourism numbers due to the protests.


Beyond far fewer tourists, visitors may also notice tension on the streets. Young protesters will continue their actions, at least in the short term, which means increased police presence in public places and in the city’s main commercial areas like Causeway Bay, Central, and Wan Chai. Keep in mind that while it’s important that tourists follow local law, travelers are not the cause of or primary target of either the increased police presence or of the coming national security measures. The city’s economy depends on an influx of Chinese mainland and international arrivals in addition to vibrant global trade markets. Because so many international companies base themselves in or do business in Hong Kong, including more than 1,200 from the US, change won’t happen overnight. But, for the mindful visitor, it can be tough to really enjoy a destination when even some of its residents may be experiencing persecution.


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Published on May 29, 2020 17:00

How to avoid overtourism again

After being confined to our respective cities and towns, perhaps having canceled long-awaited travel plans, many of us are anxious to know when we can explore the world again. We’re listening with excitement as more destinations announce plans to welcome back travelers. But even with the world gradually opening back up, our options of where to go this summer have been dramatically scaled back.


With every announcement of a reopened border, social media has been awash with commenters sharing their plans to visit. Assuming these Facebook comments tagging travel buddies aren’t just wishful thinking, it would appear as if the whole world has countries like Greece, Portugal, and Iceland on their minds — destinations that were already at the top of most bucket lists.


Before we all rush to book a flight to the first place that will take us, and crowd the same beaches, we should pause to consider travel’s darker aspect: overtourism. While travel may be good for the soul, and for the economies of the places we visit, the wrong kind of travel can erode the environment and wellbeing of those same destinations. Worse yet, visitors who may try to skirt a 14-day quarantine or social-distancing restrictions will threaten the country’s public health at a time when responsible decision-making is more important than ever.


That’s not to say we have to stay put indefinitely. We just have to be mindful of how our travel behaviors affect the world. For some of the most-visited destinations in the world, the pandemic has been a time to reflect on their relationship with tourism and consider a more sustainable model to take its place — and it’s imperative we follow their lead.


“It’s been refreshing in the sense that the city is even more beautiful in terms of quality of life,” says Valeria Duflot, co-founder of Venezia Autentica, which promotes locally focused tourism that better serves both visitors and residents. “It has been nice to be able to walk without having to fight your way through. It’s been nice to spot children more easily, to hear people speaking Venetian and Italian.”


But, adds Duflot, speaking to small businesses owners impacted by the sudden cessation of tourism has been “daunting.” Duflot adds that it’s become more clear than ever that Venice “is almost completely depending on this visitor economy.”


Photo: Javen/Shutterstock


A similar sentiment is being felt in Iceland, which will reopen to tourists in June. While some Icelanders worried in recent years about the ever-increasing numbers of visitors to their island nation, 2020’s tourism collapse has shed a light on how dependent the country is on the tourism sector, which last year made up 42 percent of the economy.


“It’s a big wheel, and when we lost the tourism, we really felt it, and now we know how important it is to keep the wheel running,” says Einar Birgir Baldursson, who together with his wife owns Ejya Tours, which operates tours on Iceland’s Westman Islands. He describes the knock-on effects of canceled flights, unemployed flight attendants, and diminished work for taxis and luggage handlers. And that’s before you even get to hotels, restaurants, and tour operators.


Despite the desire to bring back the travelers on which so many livelihoods depend, everyone we spoke to said that they’d like to see a few things change.


“I hope they take this change that this virus brought to all of us, to think about a more respectful tourism,” said Monica Vallejo, the general manager of Hostal Grau in Barcelona. Vallejo, who transformed the hotel her grandfather started into a LEED-certified boutique inn, is anxious to again welcome her typical guests, whom she describes as “concerned about the environment,” “appreciative of the location,” and “respectful.” At the same time, she says there is a type of traveler that Barcelona could do without.


“The reality is, I live from tourism. But there are also tourists who are not ideal,” says Vallejo, describing those who cram together in unlicensed Airbnbs, disturb neighbors, and buy their dinners from corporate supermarkets or fast-food chains. She says tourists who walk through the city streets shirtless in the height of summer also raise the rancor of residents.


Vallejo stresses that she doesn’t want to discriminate against tourists by income. Rather, she wants those who do come to be considerate visitors who contribute to the city’s economy and spend their money at local businesses.


Photo: TTstudio/Shutterstock


That’s a theme echoed by Duflot, who had already spoken with Matador prior to the pandemic about how we can be better travelers. In our recent conversation, Duflot reiterated the importance of supporting the local economy by eating, shopping, and staying at locally owned restaurants, stores, and hotels.


The kind of visitor you want, said Duflot, is “not what is the typical profile of the visitors today in cities like Venice and Barcelona and so on that are day-trippers.” Many such day-trippers alight off cruise ships by the thousands. But Venice’s Duflot and Barcelona’s Vallejo stressed that they appreciate those cruisers who may be starting or ending their journeys in their respective cities and actually spending a few days there.


“They are great clients. I have many of them,” said Vallejo. “They don’t just go to the ship. They come a few days early. They take advantage of being here and spend a few days in Barcelona.”


Duflot and Vallejo, however, both acknowledge the environmental costs of cruise ships. “In terms of the environmental impact globally, cruise ships are terrible,” said Duflot, adding that the mammoth ships worsen the air quality in Venice by releasing “toxins in the air.”


As we make plans for our next trip, our ecological impact should certainly be another consideration. In a place like Iceland, where the landscape is the draw, 2.3 million annual visitors to a country of 360,000 residents can affect the local ecosystem.


Currently, the Icelandic government is using this unwanted tourism hiatus to make changes that could benefit the country longer term.


“They’re spending time and money to fix things,” says Baldursson, a tour operator, of the government’s activities during this tourist-free moment. “Instead of people walking everywhere and over everything, driving sometimes over everything, they now kind of set walking routes. They’ve put trash cans. Bathrooms.”


Now, it’s up to us to stay on those newly delineated hiking paths and use those garbage bins. To anyone who cares about the environment, that part may seem obvious. But an urban community deserves our consideration, as well. It’s someone’s home.


In fact, that’s a good first step in thinking about how to travel. Duflot believes travelers should have the attitude, “I’m a temporary resident, and so I’m going to be taking care of that place like it’s my own. Actually, even more, because you’re traveling. You don’t spend the same way [as you do at home]. You spend more.”


Photo: rayints/Shutterstock


There’s an implicit message here that if you are going to enjoy the hospitality of a location, you should not merely be respectful of its residents and environment. You should also contribute to that place’s economy.


Until recently Venice, a city of 270,000, endured an astonishing 30 million annual visitors, many of whom clogged its narrow streets and slender bridges. If Venetians are going to tolerate this assault on their environment, privacy, and mobility, it’s fair that they request something in return.


This is not to suggest that you shouldn’t travel if your funds are limited. Travel’s power to transform should be denied to no one. In fact, we hope that the inclusive travel we’ve seen of late isn’t a victim of the coronavirus pandemic due to potentially costly restrictions placed on how we are permitted to see the world.


Instead, you could explore smaller, less-visited cities and towns that will be less expensive and welcome whatever amount it is that you are able to spend. You also wouldn’t be adding to the crush of crowds. And you can heed the advice of people like Duflot, whose mission is to encourage visitors to seek out experiences provided by locals who are “creating value for their communities and for the visitors, too.” That’s what her company helps visitors do by directing them to Venetian-owned businesses.


When you trade a “standardized” experience for a more localized one, says Duflot, you do more than support the livelihoods of your hosts. When you seek to engage with your destination in a deep and thoughtful way, you also “learn something and discover something unique.”.


And, really, that’s what you want from travel. Or in Duflot’s words, “You get beautiful memories. A real experience that you’re not going to forget and that you could not get anywhere else.”


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Published on May 29, 2020 16:00

Great Smoky Mountains fireflies

One of the best light shows in the US isn’t created by pyrotechnics or lasers, but fireflies. Every year, swarms of synchronous fireflies light up the Great Smoky Mountains in North Carolina, flickering among the trees and making the forest look magical. This year, that light show will look a little different. The annual firefly-viewing event has been canceled by the National Parks Service due to the pandemic, but that doesn’t mean you have to miss the show.


Discover Life in America will stream the fireflies on YouTube on June 1, 2020, starting at 8:00 PM ET. The event will include a short presentation about fireflies by the organization’s director of science, followed by firefly footage by professional firefly photographer Radim Schreiber. From the comfort of your home, you’ll be able to watch the dazzling synchronous fireflies, blue ghosts, and other indigenous firefly species light up the Great Smoky Mountains.


The event is free, though the organization is asking for a $5 contribution toward its biodiversity work in Great Smoky Mountain National Park.


Synchronous fireflies are bioluminescent beetles who synchronize their flashing light patterns as part of a mating ritual. Males fly and flash their light, and stationary females respond with a flash. Peak mating season lasts for two weeks each year, with dates varying every year.


“A version of this article was previously published on April 25, 2019, and was updated on May 29, 2020, with more information.”


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Published on May 29, 2020 14:45

Uber launches hourly reservations

Travel in summer 2020 is a time to get creative with your trips. You might feel uneasy about hopping on a train or a plane for a lengthy trip, but now you can enlist Uber as your chauffeur without racking up an exorbitant fare. Uber is launching a new hourly reservation service, allowing users to travel up to seven hours away. The program will allow users to book an extended trip, complete with additional stops, for $50 per hour. This makes it easier for users to complete several errands at once, or embark on a lengthier excursion.


Niraj Patel, director of rider operations, said in a statement, “Building on a global pilot, we’re launching Uber Hourly to provide riders a more convenient way to get things done, and to provide an additional earnings opportunity for drivers as we move forward in this ‘new normal.’ When you need to run errands, head to a doctor’s appointment, or grab groceries, Uber Hourly fits around your schedule flexibly for those moments if and when you prefer extra time and added peace of mind.”


The new feature will roll out June 2 in cities across the US. At first, cities will include Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Miami, Orlando, Tampa Bay, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Tacoma, Seattle, and Washington, DC, but the service is likely to be expanded elsewhere. Your pick-up location must be in one of the designated cities; the drop-off location can be wherever you like.


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Published on May 29, 2020 14:30

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