Matador Network's Blog, page 792
September 2, 2020
History and future of kimonos

Japan has long been known for its fashion, with a number of trends and subcultures ranging from simple punk grunge to oversized clothing to lolita styles. But despite the ever-evolving clothing and accessories scene, one item that has endured the test of time in the nation is the kimono. From the early days of the Heian period to modern day, the kimono’s influence can still be seen today.
An evolution through time
The kimono as we currently know it is a traditional, T-shaped garment that comes in a variety of colors and patterns, with an obi — a sash — tying it all together. The word kimono can translate a few different ways, but generally they all are a variation of “the thing to wear” or “wearing thing” as ki means “wear” and mono means “thing.”
The kimono wasn’t always known by that name, however. In the Heian period (794 to 1185 CE), it was just called one of those variations or a robe, worn as a usual piece of clothing by commoners and as an undergarment by aristocrats. By the time the Edo period (1603 to 1867) came around, they were called kosode if the armholes were small or osode if they were large. While both were common, the kosode eventually became the more popular version, worn by people of all ages, genders, and socioeconomic status.
The name change to kimono came in the Meiji period (1868 to 1912) when Japan further opened up to Western trade, which influenced all parts of Japanese culture, from art to food to clothing. As more and more people opted for modern clothing, the kimono faded out of everyday use. While not worn as widely as in the past, the kimono can still be seen in its original form today, mainly reserved for special occasions.
A display of personal background and symbolism

Photo: supawat bursuk/Shutterstock
The kimono was always intended for all body shapes and sizes. It consists of straight cuts of fabric that are sewn together. Any excess fabric can be tied up in the obi, allowing the wearer to adjust the kimono’s fit to their liking. Despite the size being of little to no importance, every other part of a kimono — the pattern, the color, the material, and any accessories paired with it — told the story of a person’s identity, background, and personal preferences. The stylistic choices could easily display a person’s social status. For example, only a wealthy person at the time could afford to use a kimono made with silk as an everyday item, rather than save it for important events.
A kimono’s pattern holds much significance beyond a single person’s choices. There is a seemingly endless number of designs, images, and patterns that can be used — from simple things like flowers to entire landscapes — but each has its own meaning. One of the more common motifs is that of a crane, a revered animal in Japan that has come to symbolize longevity and good fortune due to legends claiming that the animal has a lifespan of a thousand years. Another is the mandarin duck, which is a popular choice for kimonos that are worn during weddings, as the animal is a sign of love, fidelity, and happiness in marriage. Patterns like wave crests symbolize tranquility and the desire to live peacefully, while a hemp-leaf-looking pattern on a kimono is often seen on younger people, meant to stand for growth and health while coming of age, as hemp itself is strong and grows quickly.
According to research done by the Victoria and Albert Museum for its exhibit “Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk,” the colors chosen for the making of a kimono have a deep connection to nature. The dyes used are thought to be connected to the spirits of the plants where they come from, and anything the plant was used for would translate over to the fabric in some way. Blue dye typically comes from the indigo plant, the root of which is used to treat various flus, infections, colds, bites, and the like, so blue kimono fabric is considered to work as a form of repellant.
The kimono today

Photo: Markow & Norris Handwoven Glass Sculpture
Though Japan’s fashions are influenced by the rest of the world, the kimono too has influenced in return. Famous designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen have all drawn inspiration from it, and evidence can be seen in a number of their designs. Newer designers, both from Japan and the rest of the world, are also taking pieces of the kimono — like the sleeve length and size — and applying it to their own concepts.
The garment’s influence isn’t limited to just fashion designers, either. According to an article in i-D, French artists such as Degas and Manet would paint society women in kimonos. Artists Eric Markow and Thom Norris put on a woven glass exhibit in 2013, and several of the sculptures were of kimonos made out of colorful glass. Notable embroiderer Jane Morris and writer Virginia Woolf would wear kimonos as a way to go against the tight and suffocating clothing that was popular at the time.
In a similar vein, the kimono’s versatile wearability is especially welcome at a time when societal gender norms are being challenged and changed for the better. The West has long lagged behind Asia in terms of gender fluidity, where in some cultures identity goes beyond the normalized concept of what’s female and male.
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Photo: 結婚式衣装
The reimagining of the kimono is not specific to the Western world. In the past few years in Japan, a trend has emerged where brides are repurposing their old, long-sleeved kimonos and turning them into wedding dresses, and the results are nothing short of stunning. This can be attributed to a number of factors, least of which is modernizing times, but rather than forsake the traditional, people are combining that with the contemporary aspects of their weddings — taking elements of both for a unique union of the two concepts. Even more incredible is the fact that the change is not permanent; brides can revert their dress back into the full kimono in a matter of minutes. All that needs to be done to change a kimono into a wedding dress is folding the sleeves down and tying them into a bow at the back. Companies like Watabe Wedding, a Kyoto-based wedding planning company with a collection of wedding dresses that are made from real kimonos available for rent, are getting in on the action.
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Professional leaf peeper job in NY

Leaf peeping is the unofficial sport of autumn, and now you can actually play at the professional level. The New York State tourism bureau is looking for volunteers to join a team whose job is to find the best autumn colors around the state.
According to the job posting, “Each week, you’ll be required to submit a detailed report on your observations of the foliage in your area, estimating expected foliage conditions for the upcoming weekend…You’ll be asked to note the location of your reporting, the percentage of leaves you expect to be changed by the coming weekend, the expected colors visitors will see, the overall brilliance of the leaves, and the stage of the season (no change, just changing, near peak, peak, and past peak).”
Your leaf observations must be submitted on Mondays and Tuesdays, as the full foliage report is released each Wednesday during the leaf peeping season — from mid-September through mid-November.
The chosen leaf peeper will be featured on iloveny.com and potentially even have your photos featured on official social media accounts.
You can apply by filling out the online form and sharing some personal information, including why you’re interested in being a leaf peeper and which town or state park you plan to report from.
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Road trip to one of these barrier islands in the South for history, beaches, and seafood

The South is the unequaled island capital of the United States. Thing is, a few islands tend to hog all the glory (ahem, Hilton Head and the Florida Keys). But dozens are equally stunning and offer parallel access to long stretches of beach, fishing piers, kayaking, wildlife, and incredible seafood — without the spring breakers or hordes of families present. When an offshore road trip is the goal, make one of these islands part of the plan, and get ready to lounge on Barrier Island Time.
1. Jekyll Island and the Golden Isles, Georgia

Photo: Kevin Ruck/Shutterstock
Jekyll Island is part of Georgia’s Golden Isles, a cluster of gorgeous barrier islands a quick hour and 15 minutes from Jacksonville, Florida, and 90 minutes from Savannah. Despite its metropolitan proximities, it’s a world away from city life.
Your first stop should be the famed Driftwood Beach. The island also has four golf courses, resorts from both international players and locals (we’re partial to the Beachview Club for its views, easy access from everywhere, and location adjacent to the Beach House Tap Room), and some of the best mellow cruiser bike rides in the region. But most who visit come for one reason — Jekyll Island is home to one of the largest sea turtle conservation programs in the United States. Yes, you can visit the Georgia Sea Turtle Center and be overcome by cuteness while also contributing to the wellbeing of the animals. Just be warned: You’ll likely find yourself back again the next day. If time allows, get out on a kayak tour of the 4-H Tidelands Nature Center.
Beyond Jekyll Island, the rest of Georgia’s Golden Islands will keep your crew entertained for a week or more. The other isles o’ gold include St. Simons Island, Little St. Simons Island, and Sea Island. Even if you stay on Jekyll Island, spend at least a day visiting these other islands for golf, uncrowded beaches (we’re looking at you, Seven-Mile Beach), and hiking through marshland and live oak forests at Cannon’s Point Preserve. You can even mountain bike on off-road trails on St. Simons Island — though don’t expect much incline.
2. Emerald Isle, North Carolina

Photo: David Louis Econopouly/Shutterstock
Officially, the island is called Bogue Banks Island, but Emerald Isle is the real reason to visit this sandy strip less than three hours from Raleigh. North Carolina’s Crystal Coast is what you’d get if you brought the family appeal of Hilton Head and the cultural and historical vibe of Wrightsville Beach together. Hit the Maritime Museum or Core Sound Museum for coastal history and Day Five Art Gallery for a more modern take. If visiting with kids, the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores should be your first stop to check out the sharks, among other sea life.
3. Fripp Island, South Carolina

Photo: Eric Krouse/Shutterstock
Fripp Island maintains the relaxed pace that brought vacationers to the coastline of the Carolinas in the first place. Golf, beach lounges, and patio beers are on standby, and so are the uber-convenient amenities found on Hilton Head — but there aren’t nearly as many people. A visit here is the South’s equivalent of the Riviera Maya. Check into the Fripp Island Resort, grab a cocktail and a beach chair, and debate which golf course you should reserve your first tee time.
Off-resort, move about by golf cart from beach cafe to pub while contemplating whether to hop a cruiser over to Pritchard’s Island for a beach session with the view reversed. There are deer everywhere, so wildlife-sightings are a near-certainty, and here’s the real bonus — Fripp Island’s beaches love dogs as much as dogs love Fripp Island’s beaches.
4. Grand Isle, Louisiana

Photo: MarynaG/Shutterstock
Any who doubt Louisiana’s ability to satiate the outdoors enthusiast need only head to Grand Isle to be proven wrong in full. Pop a tent at Grand Isle State Park and fall asleep to the sounds of the ocean. Keep your water shoes inside the tent because you’ll be strapped in first thing in the morning. Hike the 13 miles of beach until you find a fishing spot that calls to you. Spend day one casting your line. The next day, head out on the Grand Isle Birding Trail and get your steps in while trying not to strain your neck looking for egrets, blue herons, and ibis. If you have a bike, cruise the streets and beach.
A serious bonus: The island serves seafood that is top-notch in a state that serves top-notch seafood. Head to Camardelle’s Seafood or Hurricane Hole and belly up to the table.
5. Tybee Island, Georgia

Photo: SFP Aerial Stock Footage/Shutterstock
A quick day trip from Savannah, Georgia, Tybee Island is the best place in Georgia to experience the warm waters of the Atlantic crashing onto beaches spacious enough that your entire extended family can social distance with ease. Sea kayaking is among the most popular offshore activities here, while onshore Savannah day-trippers and visitors from farther upstate cruise the bike paths until a cafe strikes their fancy for a porch hang.
Fall is the best time to visit because it’s still warm — and you can embark on a haunted tour with the Tybee Island Historical Society, which runs tours through the “legends” of the lighthouse and other sites on select nights during October.
6. Bald Head Island, North Carolina

Photo: iofoto/Shutterstock
Any excursion that starts with a ferry ride across the open sea is guaranteed to be a good one. Bald Head Island, off the North Carolina coast south of Wilmington, is part history-buff nerd session and part outdoor paradise. A historical tour of the island takes you through an old British fort from the Revolutionary War (and you thought Fort Sumter was old), century-old lighthouses and keeper’s cottages, and the Old Boathouse. Afterward, get out by foot on the M. Kent Mitchell Nature Trail, learn how to sail, or stroll the Maritime Market. Be sure to hit the market in the morning at least once while you’re here — because nothing beats a true Southern coastal breakfast from the cafe.
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Railbike through California redwoods

Traveling the redwood route from California to Oregon is incredible no matter how you do it, but doing part of the trip on this old-fashioned railbike is definitely the most memorable.
The California Western Railroad, created in 1885, had previously been a route for railcrusiers, which were introduced in 1925 as a new means of traveling through the forest. In 1996, California Western was purchased by local investors, marking the first time the railroad was operated as an independent business. Now a new railbike excursion has become popular with visitors.

Photo: Skunk Train/Facebook
Leaving from (and arriving at) Fort Bragg, the custom-built electric railbikes allow you to pedal your way along the old tracks and trestle bridges, with views of the scenic Pudding Creek. They take you into the heart of the famous redwood forest of Mendocino County in unique style.
Jason Pinoli, the “Chief Skunk,” told Bored Panda, “The Redwood forest is a dreamlike place, particularly on a rainy or misty day, it’s like a scene from Jurassic Park. With the railbikes traveling along the Pudding Creek Estuary, you can’t help but think that a brontosaurus might be around the next corner.”
Since passengers don’t need to steer, they’re free to enjoy the views of the forest, and keep an eye out for wildlife like otters, egrets, deer, and possibly even bears.
The railbikes cost $250 per bike, with room for two riders, which includes a 50-minute stop in scenic Glen Blair Junction to get closer to the majestic trees.
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TeamLab exhibit in the Netherlands

TeamLab, the Japanese art collective famous for its stunning digital art, is opening a permanent exhibition in the Netherlands.
TeamLab’s shows are usually focused on light, digital sound sequences, and virtual reality experiences, and have appeared all over the world, but there has not been any permanent exhibition outside of Asia. Now the team is taking over a venue in Utrecht’s Wonderwoods, a green urban development project, to open its first permanent exhibition in Europe called “Nowhere.”
Jeroen van Mastrigt, Nowhere’s founder, said in a statement, “The Netherlands is a country with a high digital awareness, and thus makes it the perfect base for digital art collectives and exhibitions.”
“We invite visitors from all over the world to not only enjoy Wonderwoods as an iconic landmark but also to immerse themselves in a magical playground of digital art,” said Jet Happel, the founder of Wonderwoods.
The Nowhere exhibition is slated to open in 2024.
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Ice sheets melting at worst-case

For years, climate scientists have been predicting a grim forecast for the world’s ice sheets. Now that dire forecast is coming true. The ice sheets in Greenland and Antarctica are melting at a rate consistent with scientists’ worst-case scenarios, raising the global sea level by 0.7 inches over the past 20 years. If this pace continues sea levels could rise another 6.7 inches.
Tom Slater, a climate researcher at the Centre for Polar Observation and Modelling at the University of Leeds, is the lead author of a new study in Nature Climate Change. According to Slater, “Although we anticipated the ice sheets would lose increasing amounts of ice in response to the warming of the oceans and atmosphere, the rate at which they are melting has accelerated faster than we could have imagined. The melting is overtaking the climate models we use to guide us, and we are in danger of being unprepared for the risks posed by sea level rise.”
The melting of ice sheets and glaciers has been the primary cause of rising oceans over the past five years.
Anna Hogg, the study’s co-author, said, “If ice sheet losses continue to track our worst-case climate warming scenarios we should expect an additional 17 cm [6.7 inches] of sea level rise from the ice sheets alone. That’s enough to double the frequency of storm-surge flooding in many of the world’s largest coastal cities.”
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Rocky Mountain oysters in Colorado

Near the end of the seventh season of The Office, Michael Scott, played by Steve Carell, announces he’s moving to Colorado from Scranton, PA. He sits on the building’s roof in a lawn chair as Dwight Schrute, played by Rainn Wilson, comes up with a scheme to turn Michael against the Centennial State: feed him the delicacy that is Rocky Mountain oysters.
“Oh these do not taste like oysters,” Michael says, spitting out his bite.
“That’s because they’re not oysters,” Dwight says, smiling. “They’re bull testicles. I cut them off fresh this morning.”
To which there is only one predictable response: “Sick freak! What’s wrong with you?”
It’s an understandable reaction to many — especially in a country where it’s common to buy individually packaged meats that are drained of excess blood from a refrigerated supermarket aisle without ever having to picture the animal or the person who raised and slaughtered said animal. But Rocky Mountain oysters have a long, storied history in Colorado. Today, you’ll still find them served simply across the state: sliced, battered, and deep fried with horseradish sauce on the side. Whether you call them by their most common name or any of the many nicknames (cowboy caviar, prairie oysters, or straight up sliced and fried bull balls, to name a few), there’s no getting around discussing this regional delicacy when talking about Colorado cuisine.

Photo: CLP Media/Shutterstock
When, exactly, the dish came about is impossible to pin down. People have long eaten all parts of animals, and people around the world turn to frying to make their food taste delicious. One line of thinking is that testicle consumption in the plains comes from a time when it was wrong to waste any part of the animal that could be potential food. Cattle being the primary livestock for much of Colorado’s recent history, the nether regions of a bull were ripe for the picking.
Still, the dish isn’t as famous in Kansas or Texas, or anywhere with a thriving beef industry, for that matter. Rocky Mountain oysters have been labeled a Colorado-specific delicacy, and it’s likely because of publicity and promotion, says William Philpott, associate professor of history at the University of Denver.
“Looking back at the history of this dish in the western United States and Canada, it had a lot of different names,” Philpott says. “In fact, historically, ‘Rocky Mountain oyster’ seems to have been a lot less common name for it. The much more common name in the US, before the mid-twentieth century, was just mountain oyster.”
Philpott says his theory is based on scattered evidence, but all signs point to a certain branding of the Old West Colorado lifestyle. Other regions eat them just as much or more under different names. It’s a prairie oyster in parts of Canada, and a calf fry in Texas and Oklahoma. They’re called ngầu pín in Vietnam and criadillas in Spain and Mexico. Sometimes bull testicles are considered a simple snack, other times they’re thought to increase a man’s sexual virility. In many cases, the delicacy isn’t limited to bulls — sheep, pigs, and other livestock testicles are consumed as well.
Around the 1940s and 1950s, the term “Rocky Mountain oyster” became widely known throughout the US as another name for bull testicles. The Denver Post positioned itself around this time as the newspaper of record for the region. Food columns and human-interest features from well regarded writers like Red Fenwick would position Rocky Mountain oysters “as a dish of state and regional pride, especially the kind of pride that hearkened back to a romanticized old rural West of cowboys and other (primarily manly, primarily white) iconic figures,” Philpott says.
“For many people living in Colorado in those postwar decades,” Philpott continues, “the state seemed to be changing a lot: becoming more urban and suburban; developing new industries that were different from the ranching, farming, and mining that had long anchored the state’s economy; attracting more tourists and other ‘outsiders.’ For someone like Red Fenwick to joke or brag about Rocky Mountain oysters was to mark himself a Colorado native or local, tougher, earthier, manlier, and generally more legitimate than the citified newcomers who were — the stereotype went — horrified by the thought of the dish, too squeamish or scared to even try it.”
After all, “What could be more Colorado than cattle, and what could be manlier than balls?”
Restaurants played a myth-making role during this time as well. Sam Arnold, a food historian, founded The Fort, a restaurant west of Denver, in the early 1960s. He focused on recreating dishes from the days of cattle trails and pueblos, and the popular restaurant came to be known for “authentic” Mountain West cuisine, Philpott says. It helped set Rocky Mountain oysters as a regional specialty, as did other restaurants like the Buckhorn Exchange in Denver.
“That’s my suspicion,” Philpott says. “That the association of Rocky Mountain oysters with Colorado (and the solidification of the terminology itself) had a lot to do with post-World War II Colorado boosters celebrating the dish, holding it up as the kind of thing that defined the ‘real’ Colorado in a rapidly changing West, and also using it (like Sam Arnold) to pique the curiosity of tourists.”
It worked. The dish is still on the menu at many Mountain West restaurants, as well as at Coors Field in Denver in case anyone has a craving while watching the Colorado Rockies play ball. They’ve even made their way into other consumables Denver is known for, like the Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout from Wynkoop Brewing, one of the city’s first modern craft breweries.
Today, Rocky Mountain oysters are in many ways a novelty rather than a serious dish people in the state eat regularly. The dated Mountain West reputation isn’t exactly helping prop up Colorado’s food reputation. As Philpott wrote for the American Historical Association’s magazine Perspectives, Denver cuisine is much more than the meat and potatoes it’s known for. World-class chefs call the city home, and a range of cultures from Native American to Chinese to German to Hispanic New Mexican and much more influence the city’s restaurant landscape.
Rocky Mountain oysters are just one facet of Colorado cuisine. Still, you can’t deny the position that fried testicles have in Colorado lore. The world will never know if the character of Michael Scott tried true Rocky Mountain oysters once he left The Office for Colorado. If you’re ever presented the chance, however, you should try a taste of what is, for better or for worse, a Colorado delicacy.
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Walk thru favorite Christmas movies

With the year more than halfway over, Christmas is only four months away. Gaylord Hotels is launching a new interactive pop-up event in partnership with Warner Bros., titled “I love Christmas Movies.”
At the event, you’ll be able to walk through life-sized replicas of your favorite Christmas movie scenes, including the workshop and candy cane forest from Elf, and the famous station wagon from National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. You’ll also be able to snap photos with the Polar Express train in an expertly curated North Pole village.

Photo: Gaylord Hotels
You can buy tickets starting on October 1 through online at $21 a pop. The event will run at various locations — November 13 to January 3 at Gaylord Opryland, Gaylord Palms, and Gaylord Texan, and November 20 to January 3 at Gaylord Rockies.
The company also invites you to participate in additional hands-on workshops such as decorating ice bumper cars and playing with gingerbread. The Gaylord Palms will offer enrollment at its elf training academy, so if you’ve always wanted to learn the tricks of the trade, now’s your chance.
According to a press release, the pop-up and other Christmas events at Gaylord Hotels are being developed in accordance with Marriott’s “Commitment to Clean” program, enhanced protocols, and social distancing measures. The hotels will also take into account local, state, and federal legislation, so their Christmas experiences will be as safe and fun as possible.
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New Guinea singing dog reemerges

Singing dogs might sound like one of those old-fashioned circus sideshows, but they’re an actual type of canine. The New Guinea singing dog, the rarest and most ancient dog-like animal currently alive, was thought to be extinct in the wild but was recently proven to be very much alive on the Indonesian side of the island thanks to sightings and DNA tests.
While they’re called “New Papua singing dogs” by outsiders for their unique vocalizations, the Indonesian locals call them “highland wild dogs” since they’re found on the highlands of the island that’s divided between Papua New Guinea and the Indonesian province of Papua.
In 2016, zoologist James McIntyre, president of the New Guinea Highland Wild Dog Foundation began an expedition to the area to find evidence of the dog’s continued existence. He captured 149 photographs of 15 dogs. In 2018, he went back to the highlands and collected DNA samples from three dogs.
As per the study, published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, once compared to that of the New Papua singing dogs who have been in captivity for decades, the Highland Wild dog’s DNA showed significant similarities — they have 72 percent of their genes in common — but the wild dogs show much more genetic varieties than the captive ones that have been in-bred for many years.
According to Dr. Heidi Parker, staff scientist at the National Human Genome Research Institute, “We found that New Guinea singing dogs and the highland wild dogs have very similar genome sequences, much closer to each other than to any other canid known. In the tree of life, this makes them much more related to each other than modern breeds such as German shepherds or basset hounds.”
The findings may help scientists learn more about human vocalization, save the New Guinea singing dogs by providing more genetic diversity, and teach us about the lineage of canines and their domestication.
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September 1, 2020
Isle Royale National Park in fall

Just over a billion years ago, North America’s center was rifting apart. Lava erupted across the land, setting down ultra-hard rock — ultra-hard rock that would have to escape glaciation. Isle Royale did just that, becoming the largest island in Lake Superior. It’s 45 miles long by nine miles wide, a dense boreal forest growing along a rugged shoreline, and it remains a vast wilderness set aside for our enjoyment.
Isle Royale National Park in Michigan is one of the least-visited national parks in the system. It’s difficult to get to for a number of reasons — location, time, money — and its main season is incredibly short: April 16 through October 31. If you’ve been looking for a fall road trip away from the humans, you’ve found it. From aspen groves turning gold to the chilly, empty shores of Lake Superior, let’s get planning.
How to get there

Photo: Jacob Boomsma/Shutterstock
Every visitor to Isle Royale comes via boat or seaplane. Most of us will opt for a ferry from one of the designated launching points:
Houghton, Michigan: The Ranger III departs from Houghton regularly — in normal years. Because of COVID-19, operations are resuming in 2021.
Copper Harbor, Michigan: The Isle Royale Queen IV departs from Copper Harbor at 8:00 AM every day and arrives at Rock Harbor a little after 11:00 AM. It also departs at 2:45 PM from Rock Harbor, allowing for overnight and day-trip guests.
Grand Portage, Minnesota: The Voyageur II and Seahunter III depart from Grand Portage on varying schedules. Voyageur II provides service every two days and does not operate on Fridays; Seahunter III departs Grand Portage at 9:30 AM and arrives at Windigo around 11:00 AM.
The Isle Royale Queen IV is $136 per adult per round-trip; other ferries have similar prices. In addition to one of the least-visited, Isle Royale is also one of the more expensive parks to visit.
Getting around

Photo: Steven Schremp/Shutterstock
There are two visitor centers on either end of the island — one in Windigo and one in Rock Harbor. Your ferry will land at one of those two destinations, and where you go from there is up to you. From here, there are really two main ways to see the park: hiking or paddling.
Hiking
The island — again, it’s 45 miles long — is absolutely criss-crossed with trails and campgrounds. You could easily spend a week camping, backpacking, and hiking from end to end or setting up shop in one post and exploring in a radius around your makeshift home. Of course, you could always take it easy at Rock Harbor Lodge — yep, there’s one “hotel” on the island — and take day trips on foot from there as well.
Bonus: The NPS has clocked trail mileage between campgrounds for you if you like to wander.
Paddling

Photo: Jacob Boomsma/Shutterstock
You’d be remiss to be in one of the country’s few island national parks and not see it by water — in fact, you could use paddling as your main mode of transportation. But know that Lake Superior is no puddle: Recreational kayaks are not appropriate here; sea kayaks are recommended, and they should be at least 15’8″ to 19′ long for open water. Canoes should be at least 15’ long.
That being said, if the choppy waters of Lake Superior make you uncomfortable, the park has plenty — plenty — of inland lakes, little bays, and calm waterways in between the tiny, tiny islands on the park’s east (Rock Harbor) side. Take a look at the map, and plot out campsites you may want to paddle to or sites you’ll want to see. You could spend days paddling between spruce groves and aspen and never get bored (and, hopefully, never see another soul).
Where to stay

Photo: Rock Harbor Lodge/Facebook
The aforementioned Rock Harbor Lodge, on the popular Rock Harbor end of the island, has lakeside lodge rooms, cottages, and “camper cabins” available for reservation. It’s got a restaurant, gift shop — all the fixings — and it’s a quick walk to the visitor center, where they can hook you up with a canoe or kayak.
The island also has 36 campgrounds, the majority on the Rock Harbor side of the island. Some require a watercraft, and all offer tent sites, outhouses, and a water source. They’re first-come, first-serve, and you can get a permit (free for parties smaller than six) in Rock Harbor, Windigo, or aboard the Ranger III. There are inland lake campgrounds, trail-accessible campgrounds, and Lake Superior campgrounds. Backcountry camping, or cross-country camping as it’s referred to in the park, is allowed in designated areas with a special permit.
What to do

Photo: Jacob Boomsma/Shutterstock
Isle Royale National Park is about simply being. Seeing. Experiencing. Getting away from it all. There are no epic mountains to climb, no geysers to time, no shuttles to cramp into.
On foot
While there may be no 14ers, the terrain here is rough and uneven. Bring sturdy shoes, and you could find yourself in a wilderness like you’ve never experienced.
On the Rock Harbor side, check out Suzy’s Cave, a 3.8-mile loop that leads you to a wave-washed cliff and an inland sea arch formed thousands of years ago. Listen for loons and moose, and get lost in the canopy of fir and spruce. For something longer, scope out the 10-mile Mount Franklin Trail, leading you to an overlook that gets your eyes all the way to Canada.
The Greenstone Ridge and Minong Ridge Trails lead all the way to the Windigo side. Greenstone Ridge is the backbone of the park, and it takes you to Mount Desor, the highest point on the island, along exposed bedrock and blueberry bushes and through miles and miles of boreal forest. Look to these trails if you want to hike the entire island.
On the western side (Windigo) — formerly a private retreat for wealthy Minnesota businessmen — check out the Huginnin Cove Loop, a 9.6-mile trail that weaves through wetlands, along planked cedar swamps, and to Superior’s shoreline. The Minong Ridge trailhead is on this side of the park as well.
Hint: The higher your trail, the fewer the mosquitos, which can be a serious issue come May and June.
Via paddle
The main island is the draw, but there are 450 (450!) smaller islands surrounding it, making for an endless paddling maze full of solitude and beauty. If you’re here for the paddling, you’ll probably want to land on the Rock Harbor side, choose a campground or two, and spend your days navigating to picturesque islands you can get all to yourself.
The top of your list should be Raspberry Island, a short ride away, where you can spend a few hours exploring the boreal forest, fragile bogs, and the rocky shores before you get back in the water. Tobin Harbor is another great spot, known for its calm waters and immaculate bird-watching opportunities. Keep your eyes and ears open!
What to bring

Photo: Steve Lagreca/Shutterstock
Bug spray. And some more bug spray. And plenty of layers and rain gear. Heat and mosquitos are the two downfalls of this otherwise pristine wilderness, though if you go in fall — early fall is best to avoid chillier temperatures — you won’t have as much of a problem with either of those. You just might need a heftier sleeping bag.
Depending on what you’re planning on, you’ll want to bring everything from full-on backpacking gear to a small suitcase and your wallet, living solely off the lodge’s restaurant and Rock Harbor’s general store. But either way, make sure you pack good hiking shoes, layers for heat and layers for cold, and a big ol’ water bottle. You’ve got some adventuring to do.
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