Matador Network's Blog, page 665
April 22, 2021
How to experience Hawaii’s surprising, multi-cultured cowboy heritage
In 1908, Ikua Purdy traveled from his home on Hawaii’s Big Island to Cheyenne, WY, for the Frontier Days Rodeo. He and his fellow paniolos, or Hawaiian cowboys, stood out with their brightly hued hat bands and unusual saddles. But Purdy made more of an impression when he roped a steer in 56 seconds, setting a new record.
Purdy showed the world that Hawaiian cowboys were not just skilled cattlemen but that they had traditions and techniques of their own.
“Ikua Purdy had gone to Cheyenne and won the world roping championship. The number one cowboy in the United States was a Paniolo,” says Raymond Foat, who until last year ran the dinner events at Kahua Ranch, a working ranch in the Big Island’s Waimea region. “The story intrigued me tremendously. It was a wonderful story to tell.”
That story goes back to King Kamehameha, the young nobleman who united the Hawaiian islands under his ruler. In the early 1790s, Captain George Vancouver gave Kamehameha a couple of bulls and a few cows; accounts vary, but the number of cattle gifted was at least five. The king then issued a “kapu,” or prohibition, on the killing of these animals.
By the time a 19-year-old sailor from Massachusetts named John Palmer Parker abandoned his ship and ended up on the Big Island’s west coast in 1809, the island was becoming overrun with cattle, which were destroying the local plantlife. Although Parker briefly left the islands for China in 1812, he returned in 1815 bearing a newly made musket.
King Kamehameha gave Parker permission to shoot the ever-spreading cattle, which Parker did — soon selling salted beef and other beef products. Parker also learned Hawaiian, married a granddaughter of King Kamehameha, and had three children. But Parker was trained as a sailor, not a herder, and the cows were still running wild.
It wasn’t until 1832 that Kamehameha sent for help in herding the cattle from California, which, like Hawaii, was not yet a part of the US. The assistance came in the form of three Spanish-Mexican vaqueros, as cowboys are called in Spanish, who wore ponchos, wielded lariats with astonishing skill, and taught Hawaiians how to round up and tame the wild bulls and cows.
“So the students of the vaqueros were adult men and women who soon learned the advantage of combining a horse lariat and saddle with a dally horn,” Justina Wood, manager of the Paniolo Preservation Society, tells us via email. She says this greatly helped their ability to manage and reduce the overpopulation of wild cattle.
These men spoke Spanish, and it’s from there that the term “paniolo” emerged.
“The Hawaiian people in honor of these gentlemen from old California gave them the name paniolo or paniola as a Hawaiian dialect to speak the word español,” Wood says.
Their descendants are still proudly called paniolos today. You can find them throughout the Hawaiian archipelago, but most prominently on the Big Island. Still, they remain out of sight for many Hawaiian visitors.
In 2008, locals did celebrate a centennial to commemorate the success of the three paniolos at the 1908 Cheyenne rodeo — beyond Purdy’s top prize, his fellow paniolos earned third and sixth place. Foat, of the Kahua Ranch program, was among those who also accompanied a group of paniolos to Cheyenne that same year, part of his own effort to teach the world about paniolos.
Foat had arrived in Hawaii in 1957, before it was a US state. What was by then Parker Ranch took up a huge amount of land, at one time covering nearly half of the Big Island. Foat says he was surprised that such a major part of the island, the heritage of its Hawaiian cowboys, was unknown to those outside the ranching world.
“It was something I felt,” says Foat. “The Hawaiian people and the visitors needed to know about that wonderful history and its champion [Ikua Purdy].”
Beyond the history, says the Paniolo Preservation Society’s Wood, the paniolos also helped preserve the Hawaiian language itself — as even those who were not Native Hawaiians rode horses and herded cattle learned to speak it.
“The Hawaiian cowboy regardless of ethnicity uses the Hawaiian language as the mother tongue of the paniolo,” says Wood. “This preserved the Hawaiian language over the last two centuries into the present day — emphasis on present day — Hawaiian culture.”
Although the pandemic put an end to the Kahua Ranch evening programs, there are several ways for visitors to learn about and appreciate the paniolo culture.
Visit Hawaii’s cattle country
Photo: Suzanne Pratt/Shutterstock
The most obvious way is to explore the area, which has its own lovely climate and topography. On the island’s east side there are rainforests and Hilo, one of the rainiest cities in the world. Due west you have an “arid desert,” says Foat. Due north, however, Waipio Valley near the coast and Waimea, inland at elevations of 3000 to 4000 feet, have weather patterns all their own.
“That part of the island is absolutely magnificent, from Waipi’o Valley to Waimea, and the cattle, and the rolling hills,” says Foat. Even the drive along route 240 toward the Waipio Valley will offer up worthy vistas.
Ride horseback with a view
Photo: Na’alapa Stables – Kahua Ranch Horseback Tour/Facebook
Wood recommends savoring the best of what being a paniolo means for those who live in these parts. She suggests visitors ride “horseback high in our verdant mountains and enjoy the most beautiful panorama in God’s given earth!”
You’ll find several horse-riding options in Waimea and the Waipi’o Valley — one of the many adventurous ways to explore the Big Island. Paniolo Adventures offers 2.5-hour rides for $99 and 1.5-hour sunset rides for $89. There’s a shorter 1.5-hour tour of the ranch or a longer 2.5-hour tour of the Waipi’o Valley — which is $114 for adults. Na‘alapa Stables, located on a 12,000-acre working cattle ranch in Kohala, is another option.
If you aren’t much of a horse rider, or want to get out and see the scenery another way, you could also traverse the upcountry on a guided mountain bike tour.
Check out Parker Ranch
Photo: Bob Pool/Shutterstock
At the center of the story of paniolo culture is Parker Ranch, which remains one of the largest ranches in the country. Parker Ranch is also one of the nation’s oldest ranches, predating those of Texas by more than three decades.
It’s also where the paniolo story began. In fact, among the two other paniolos who had traveled to Cheyenne in 1908 with Ikua Purdy — and also wowed onlookers with their rope-handling skills — was Jack Low, great-great-grandson of John Palmer Parker. Indeed, the Parker family became an integral part of the Hawaiian story, with John Palmer Parker’s grandson, Samuel Parker, who was three-quarters Native Hawaiian, serving as a foreign minister in Hawaii’s last royal government.
When the fifth-generation Parker heir passed away at a young age, his widow hired Alfred Wellington Carter to take over management of the ranch in 1899. A horse aficionado, Carter started raising steed — and they continue to be a part of the Parker Ranch heritage. Parker Ranch, which today covers closer to 140,000 acres than its peak of 500,000, remains in operation and is owned by a charitable trust.
Although free, self-guided tours of the ranch were suspended by COVID-19, we expect these to restart soon.
Visit the Paniolo Heritage CenterRun by the Paniolo Preservation Society, this small center is the best place to explore artifacts like the first saddles used by Hawaiian cowboys. These saddles differ significantly from those you might see in the US mainland — and their basic structure remains in use today.
“The modern Hawaiian cowboy… continues to use a prototype of the Mexican saddle that by the Hawaiian wood and rawhide worker enhanced the comfort of the seat and strengthened the dally horn into a taller unit,” says Wood. “The term Hawaiian tree refers to those saddles that have a minimum of rawhide and adorn with a very unique rawhide rigging called the awe awe.”
You’ll find photographs, stories, and exhibits detailing the history of paniolo culture, as well as the Nā Wahine Holo Lio Paʻu Museum. The huge collection of saddles, stirrups, and reins highlights how the Spanish vaquero tradition influenced Hawaii’s local cowboy culture.
Go to a rodeo or watch a horse race
Photo: Parker Ranch Inc./Facebook
While February is typically a big month for rodeos, none took place in 2021 due to the pandemic. Hopefully, these will start up again. Even in years that Hawaiian cowboys have participated less in the rodeo world championships — which have since moved from Cheyenne to Las Vegas — rodeos remained a big part of life for Hawaiians in the upcountry.
“The ranchers compete amongst themselves,” says Foat. “It’s their own little Olympics, if you will. They take big pride in this, the ranchers all competing against each other.”
The hope is that by 2022, rodeos will again be a regular feature of paniolo life in Hawaii. In addition to rodeos, you could also watch a horse race. Parker Ranch has several steeds, and once provided horses to the US Cavalry. With the exception of 2020, it has held annual horse races on July Fourth, bringing together paniolos from other ranches for horse racing and traditional rodeo events.
Listen to paniolo songsPaniolo culture was also the source of its own ballads. As Parker Ranch points out, paniolo culture brought together Native Hawaiians, with Americans and the Chinese, Japanese, and Filippino immigrants who had worked the plantations, along with the Spanish-Mexican vaqueros who brought their cowherding skills. Paniolos are uniquely Hawaiian cowboys that arose out of a medley of cultures.
The song “Adios Ke Aloha” was written by Hawaiian prince Leleiohoku as a thank you to the vaqueros. One of those vaqueros’ descendants, Clyde “Kindy” Sproat, performed that and other Hawaiian cowboy songs, and received a National Heritage Fellowship for his work in preserving these folk tunes. You can listen to this song on Amazon, or watch Sproat perform other tunes online. 
The post How to experience Hawaii’s surprising, multi-cultured cowboy heritage appeared first on Matador Network.
You can stay in this amazing English cottage from Downton Abbey
We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay.
Get ready, Downton Abbey fans. The hit TV series and movie has been approved for a second spinoff movie, Downton Abbey 2. And if you ever wondered what it would be like to live the lives of your favorite characters from the early 20th century, you can try it out by renting Falstaff House — one of the series filming locations — on Love Home Swap.
Photo: VRBO
The traditional English cottage is located in Alnwick, Northumberland, in England. It’s a two-bedroom, two-bathroom that sleeps five guests. The cozy stay includes a private patio, kitchen, and a charming living room with a wood stove. The beach is only four miles away, and because it’s in the heart of the town, shops, tea rooms, and pubs are less than five minutes away on foot. The stunning Alnwick Castle, which also served as a filming location, is nearby, too.
Photo: iLongLoveKing/Shutterstock
For a chance at this unique experience, Downton Abbey enthusiasts must sign up for Love Home Swap.
Love Home Swap is a home swapping platform. A membership gets you access to unique homestays all over the world. Memberships range from $11-15 per month.
The Falstaff House English cottage is also available for rent on Airbnb and Vrbo.
The post You can stay in this amazing English cottage from Downton Abbey appeared first on Matador Network.
April 21, 2021
How Laurie Woolever created Anthony Bourdain’s newest travel book without him
How can you go on to complete a book when your co-author, whose opinions are the subject of the book, has passed away? That was the task that Laurie Woolever faced after Anthony Bourdain died in June of 2018.
The book, World Travel: An Irreverent Guide, was published on April 20, 2020. Woolever was his assistant from 2009 until his death, and he referred to her as “the lieutenant.” She discussed the book’s blueprint only once with Bourdain, but she filled in the gaps with her own years of experience working with him, along with research and conversations with those who knew the globe-trotting chef.
There are travel recollections from Bourdain’s brother, Christopher; a story from his producer and director Nari Kye; a reflection of his time at Black Hoof in Toronto by owner and restaurateur Jen Agg; and a contribution by producer and musician Steve Albini, who dined with Bourdain on camera in Chicago.
“I tried to make a good balance of those two — people who were along for much of the journey with him and people who he met along the way,” Woolever says.
The book covers 40-plus countries, from Argentina to Vietnam, with Tony’s related observations sprinkled in. Each chapter includes tips on travel and recommendations for dining, accommodations, and attractions. Some places didn’t make the cut if a lot had changed since Bourdain’s time there, or if his experiences aren’t possible for the everyday traveler. Iran and Indonesia fall into this list, as does Thailand.
Woolever, a writer and editor with a culinary background, met Bourdain in 2002 while she was working as an assistant for the chef Mario Batali. Bourdain hired her to help him develop his Les Halles Cookbook. Woolever and Bourdain later reconnected when she was seeking a flexible, part-time job and he, an assistant. They worked closely over the years on editorial projects published through Anthony Bourdain Books, an imprint founded in 2011, including 2016’s Appetites. Woolever would also go on to travel with Bourdain and his production crew once a year to filming locations. The pair first discussed writing a guide book, which would become World Travel, at a meeting at Bourdain’s New York City apartment in the spring of 2018.
Photo: Steve Legato
Currently, Woolever is working on an oral history of Bourdain’s life set to be published in October 2021.
“I think we both were very lucky to know each other,” Woolever says. “He certainly gave me the most incredible opportunities to develop as a writer and an editor and to really live a great life.”
Over a Zoom interview, I spoke with Woolever about what it was like to work with Bourdain, and how he helped change travel media forever.
This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.
Tony was so known for his directness and being a little bit acerbic. What was it like working on editing and writing projects with him?
In terms of the writing projects, Tony started a book imprint in 2011 called Anthony Bourdain Books, and it was an imprint of ECCO, which is itself an imprint of HarperCollins. And he published about six titles a year.
One of the first ones was called Grand Forks: A History of American Dining in 128 Reviews. It was a collection of restaurant reviews by Marilyn Hagerty, who was the longtime restaurant critic and restaurant reviewer for the Grand Forks Herald in North Dakota. She went viral because she reviewed an Olive Garden back in 2012, and sort of became this sensation. He really championed her and thought there was something there to this very straightforward assessment of places to eat in North Dakota. So he wanted to publish sort of a best of, of her work.
I was hired to go through the entirety of her output from about 30 years of restaurant reviewing and pull the most representative and interesting reviews, enough to make a book, and do a little bit of editing and clarifying as needed. So that was my first editing project with him post-Les Halles Cookbook.
Tony was such a great writer. He didn’t really need somebody to write for him. But a lot of times, he was an incredibly busy person who traveled so much that he sometimes needed a second pair of eyes to look at something, or he would ask me to sort of punch something up or to give him the outline of something and then he would fill it in.
It was the same way that he worked with his producers on his television show. He would come back from shooting, and then he would have to write a voice-over. A lot of times, the producers would give him the skeleton of what they wanted him to say, or the facts that he needed to hit, and he would take it and make it his own.
He didn’t have a lot of ego around knowing that sometimes you just need help, sometimes you just don’t have the bandwidth to do it all yourself. And I learned a lot about that from him.
What went into the decision to move forward with “World Travel” after his death and how did your responsibilities for the book change?
Maybe a month or two, or maybe less, after he died, I had a conversation with Tony’s agent, who’s also my agent. She was working closely with his estate. Everyone agreed that this is what Tony would have wanted, that we had started this thing, that all of the raw material was there, and that there was a way that we could thoughtfully and sensitively and tastefully move ahead with the project.
Photo: Ecco
Tony had such a huge amount of output — close to 20 years of traveling for television, and writing books and writing articles — so there was so much material out there, but there was no one carefully curated collection of those observations, thoughts, recommendations, and jokes. And so it just made sense. It was like, this is a way that we can curate some version of his legacy or some part of his legacy. It certainly doesn’t represent his entire legacy. But it is one part and a way to share with people who missed him, who followed along his whole career, who loved reading his books and watching his shows — this is a way to put all of that together in one place.
Tony’s brother, Christopher, wrote essays for the book, along with other people who also knew Tony. Why did you include them?
Part of the plan initially for the book was for Tony to write a bunch of essays. He had some ideas, and I’m sure that we would have developed more ideas as we went on in the process. Unfortunately, he just didn’t get the time to do that. He was so busy. He had sort of earmarked the summer of 2018 as the time that he was going to really dig in and do that work of writing those essays.
I still loved the idea that there would be essays, longer ruminations on things throughout this book. And it just made a lot of sense to pull in people who knew Tony, especially people who had traveled with him.
It made perfect sense to me to talk to his brother because he had so many memories that were not exactly the same, but very complimentary memories. And because they had traveled together, both as children and as adults, I thought it was a really good and useful perspective. And in some ways, they’re very similar. Christopher is also quite articulate and literate and is funny and eloquent in his speech. And his ability to recall details is very, very sharp. So it’s a nice sort of echo of the voice in a way. But of course, he has his own perspective and his own style, too.
What about other changes to the style of the book?
I tried to stay very close to the blueprint that we laid out in that one conversation. There were, of course, cases where I did have to make some decisions. If places that Tony had remembered and loved didn’t exist anymore or had changed significantly, it wouldn’t be fair to represent them as the places that he once loved.
There are a few places where I slotted in some of my own recommendations. I went to Rome in 2019 to do research for the book. There were a few places that just weren’t the same that he had recommended — they had just sort of changed like places do over the years. But there were some places that his Rome fixer Sara Pampaloni took me to that were very representative of the kinds of places that he loved in earlier years. So I included those in the book with a note that they weren’t places he had himself visited, but if you’re looking for that rustic Roman trattoria experience, these are those places to go to.
You talk in the book about the “Bourdain effect” and how it can lead to positive and negative results. Does “World Travel” also signify the impact that Bourdain had?
Yeah, it’s interesting. I was going over some of the entries in the Spain chapter for a little piece I was working on. I was trying to understand this one dish at one restaurant that Tony really loved — seared wild mushrooms with a raw egg yolk and foie gras. He talked about it on Parts Unknown. When I was researching the place online everybody that wrote a little review of it talked about that dish. And so in that specific case, I was thinking, does everyone really love this dish? Or do they love it because they saw Tony talk about it on TV, and then it becomes this self-fulfilling prophecy?
He had that impact on things. I went to Pastrami Queen in Manhattan recently and they have a picture of him on their front window. They have a picture of him on their website, and this great quote he gave to Variety magazine about how it’s the first meal he gets when he comes back to New York.
I think in the best case, the Bourdain effect can be really galvanizing for a restaurant and really give some places a second life. And then I think in some cases it can sort of pigeonhole a place, or a place that was very quiet and understated and only known to locals can become overrun with people who just want to do what Tony did.
It’s the risk that you take, as a business, consenting to be on television. And there were plenty of places that said, “great, we were so thrilled we would love to be featured.” And there were plenty of places that said, “no, thank you. We can’t; we know what happens,” and, “that’s not our vision for ourselves,” or, “we know that we won’t be able to sustain what we do if we have that level of scrutiny and spotlight from television.”
I think you can take it either as a negative or positive. If it makes a business into sort of a shit show, that’s not great. But I think the flip side of it is that by focusing on places that are not just fine dining, or not the most well known, gets people curious about what’s in my neighborhood, or what’s in a different part of the city that I’m staying when I’m visiting someplace else? I don’t think he ever set out to say, “these are the definitive places that you have to go in any one city.” It was like, “here’s what my producers and I found, here’s the stories that we got, here’s the people that run this place.” Use it as a jumping-off point, use it as a starting point, but definitely explore on your own.
You’re working on an oral history of Bourdain’s life. Why do you feel it’s important to continue its legacy?
I think he had an enormous impact on so many people. I don’t think I even realized working for him. It just became sort of a room tone that Tony is important to me because I work for him. And he’s important to the people around me because we all work for him and we’re all supporting each other.
I think [it was that way] until his death and until that incredible outpouring from people all over the world, and world leaders and millions of people, who were moved by him. I do think that when it’s so sudden and unexpected like that, people have questions, people have a lot of feelings.
As much as I was very immersed in him and his life and his story, I thought that I knew pretty much all there was to know. I myself was surprised by every single one of the nearly 100 interviews that I did in the service of that book. I learned a lot about Tony that I didn’t know. And I think that’s always the case. He was very, very open with his own story, his own biographical details. Obviously, Kitchen Confidential told the story of his life from childhood to about his mid-40s. But that’s his version of the story. That’s a storyteller’s, a raconteur’s, version, which is entertaining, but necessarily incomplete. I’m sure I’ll be able to talk more about the biography closer to publication. But suffice it to say, I think there’s still a lot left to learn about Tony, and hopefully, this book will speak to that.
How do you think Tony changed travel writing?
I think that he was part of a wave of change. And maybe the face of a wave of change in travel writing and travel media of a less polished, less service-oriented kind of offering, whether it’s television or writing this sort of true-to-oneself storytelling.
I think it represented some big risks on the part of various networks and producers and executives. And I think they saw the charisma and the heart and the intelligence in Tony. They were willing to take that risk and know that if we’re going to break the mold, this is the guy that’s going to do it successfully for us. There are a lot of people that have tried to follow in his footsteps, and I think that’s great. I think the more honest, and real, our media is — even if it’s meant to be entertaining, or meant to be in service of tourism — I think the more honest it is, the better off we all are.
Photo: Donald Bowers Photography/Shutterstock
I don’t want to speak for him, but I don’t think that he would want to take credit for changing the travel media landscape. Certainly not single-handedly. I mean, everything that he did also represented the work of dozens, if not 100 people, per episode, per book, per series, per film. But there was some combination of his charisma, his intelligence, his humor, and the risks that people were willing to take to go along with him on this journey that really was a very singular thing. So my fondest hope is that, as much as possible, that is contained in World Travel.
How did working with Tony change your perspectives and approaches to traveling?
I had traveled a fair bit before I worked with him, and then I had a baby. And that kind of grounds you for at least a couple of years. Once my son was a little older, I made a plan on my own to go to Colombia. I asked Tony, “I’m going to Cartagena in a few weeks, what did you really love there?” These were the kind of emails and phone calls that he would get from friends all the time. And again, this is sort of another reason for World Travel: people asking themselves where would Tony Bourdain go? I myself would ask him those questions.
So he said, “Oh, you’re going to Colombia? Alright, well, I guess so you’re ready to start traveling again. You know, if you want, you can start coming along with us on shoots. Pick one shoot a year and I’ll pay your expenses and just kind of hang out and see what we do. Or you can pitch your own stories, while you’re there.”
So I started going along once a year on a shoot with the crew. We were in Hue in central Vietnam, and there were times where they were shooting stuff that I knew wasn’t going to be that interesting for me to hang out in the background and watch them shoot B-roll of someone painting, or hours of trees swaying in the breeze, or exteriors. I was very much encouraged to go out on my own, and I was a little nervous. Tony said, “find a motorcycle guide, they’re everywhere, they’re super safe, and just see what you can.” And so I did. I found a guy, he had this book of recommendations, and I trusted him by my gut. He ended up being my private tour guide for a couple of days, and, from the back of his motorcycle, I went to a bunch of temples and had lunch in the countryside.
It was so great to have him encouraging me to take that little risk. As a mother, getting on the back of a motorcycle with a stranger made me pause. But once I did, it was like, this is great. We’re only going like 30 miles an hour. I could probably jump off the motorcycle if things got sketchy. But they didn’t, and it was an experience that had I not pushed myself a little bit out of my comfort zone I never would have had walking around the city proper. I wouldn’t have seen all these amazing things, and to be alone doing it was fine.
I went to Japan with him twice. We went to Sri Lanka, Manila, Hong Kong. Every one of those places I had that sense of like, just push yourself a little bit out of your comfort zone. And something amazing always happened. So I really appreciate that he gave me that courage.
Our time is just about up, but I was wondering, what do you think, Tony would think of this book?
It is my fondest hope that he would be proud of it, that he would be glad that we finished it. I think he would be really grateful to all the people that contributed — not only the essayists who were a huge part of it, but also all of his producers and directors who were hugely valuable in giving me access to transcripts, answering a million questions, and helping me double-check things. All of the friends that we have all over the world who helped make the shows who also were very, very helpful.
I think it would be a different book if he were here, but think that he would be hopefully pleased with the way that it came out.
The post How Laurie Woolever created Anthony Bourdain’s newest travel book without him appeared first on Matador Network.
The 6 most charming small towns in Georgia to escape to
The reputations of Atlanta and Savannah, Georgia, are well-deserved for their historic landmarks, cuisines, and Southern hospitality. But the Peach State is much more than the two cities. There are dozens of small towns and communities to explore for those looking for a different, more local experience and slower pace.
Within a few hours’ drive from the two major cities, you can be in charming towns in the mountains, by the coast, the marshy swamp, or the red clay hills. Each of these six destinations has been chosen for its incredible restaurants, lesser-known landmarks, and exceptional hospitality. Here are our six favorite small towns in Georgia to explore.
1. Americus
Photo: Explore Georgial/Ralph Daniel
Americus sits three hours south of Atlanta. The town’s rich historical architectural design, boutique shops and hotels, range of eateries, and overall small-town vibe make this a perfect base to explore Sumter County. A vintage 1949 train connects many of the historic small towns in South Georgia, and Americus is the ideal first stop on the route. Weekend train rides run to places like Plains, where President Jimmy Carter grew up, and Leslie, a town lined with beautiful dogwoods. The hamlet of Andersonville is also a short drive from Americus and home to a notorious Civil War prisoner of war camp with an incredible museum and interpretive center.
Americus’ food scene is unique. From home-cooked traditional Southern fare to five-star restaurants, there’s a vast range of excellent dining options. Cafe Campesino, in particular, is worth a visit for their outstanding range of coffee from around the world and homemade pastries and sandwiches. For more formal dining Rosemary and Thyme Restaurant delivers. Located inside the historic Windsor Hotel, it has an ambiance of a Victorian dining room and serves dishes like balsamic glazed pork chops and regional fish in white wine sauce. Locals hang out after hours on the hotel’s balcony at Floyd’s Pub, named for the hotel’s former bellman.
The town also has excellent shopping. For antiques, local crafts, jewelry and home décor, you can lose an afternoon rummaging at The Maze. If you are in town on the first Friday of the month, local businesses are invited to come together to the store to showcase and enjoy local products and art.
2. Athens
Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
Music lovers can’t miss the “Classic City” of Athens, also located only an hour and a half from Atlanta. It has played an essential role in the careers of bands like R.E.M. and The B-52s. Venues like The Georgia Theatre, a 1935 movie theater, and the 40 Watt Club still host up-and-coming acts most nights of the week.
The city is home to some offbeat attractions like the world’s only double-barreled cannon and the most beloved residents, an oak called the Tree That Owns Itself. The stately tree was deeded to itself by a resident, protecting it for future generations to enjoy.
Eating out in Athens is a joy, and the restaurants have a reputation that stacks up against the best of Atlanta. Chef and TV judge Hugh Acheson made his home here, opening his flagship restaurant Five and Ten. Other award-winners and classic favorites include Weaver D’s, a favorite of members of R.E.M., and Last Resort Grill, with its decadent shrimp and grits. Athens has also become somewhat of a beer town, starting with Terrapin Beer Company, founded in 2002. Since then, five more have opened their doors, including the wildly popular Creature Comforts Brewing Company.
3. Clayton
Photo: Explore Georgia/Geoff Johnson
If the mountains are calling, Clayton in Rabun County is the place to be. The bustling downtown of eateries has earned Clayton the unofficial title of “Farm to Table Capital of Georgia.” A couple of venues stand out, but you won’t go wrong if you come to this mountain community to eat. Fortify is known for pizza and a celebration of local produce, while Grapes and Beans have delightful sandwiches and an incredible wine selection. The town is also close to many wineries, so basing yourself here and exploring the regional vineyards makes a great day out.
The area was also home to the original moonshine operators, and you can take a guided tour of the town’s legal distillery, Moonrise Distillery, and learn about their whiskey, bourbon, and fruit brandies. After you’ve enjoyed a dram or two, you can visit one of Clayton’s more quirky roadside attractions, Goats on the Roof, where goats roam across rope bridges and accept food from a pulley system. The shop below sells delicious homemade fudge and nitro ice cream to round off the afternoon.
Clayton is close to many hikes for all levels of expertise and fitness. The hike to Tallulah Gorge is particularly spectacular. It reaches depths of 1,000 feet and is one of the most beautiful landmarks in Georgia. They have limited permits to reach the gorge floor, so it’s worth calling in advance. Otherwise, you can admire it from a rim hike.
4. Dahlonega
Photo: Rob Hainer/Shutterstock
Dahlonega is located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains and was the site of the first major gold rush in the US in 1829. Gold is still a massive part of the culture of this region and town, and you can wade into the local river in search of a nugget, pan at active mines, including Crisson and Consolidated, or learn about the industry at the Dahlonega Gold Museum.
The town is also at the center of an AVA wine region, officially designated in 2018. Among the highly praised vineyards are Wolf Mountain Vineyards, Montaluce Winery, and Cavender Creek Vineyards. When it comes to eating, for great family-style Southern dishes, head to The Smith House. Their fried chicken, green beans, and macaroni and cheese are the epitome of Georgian home cooking. And if you’re in a hurry to go panning for gold and prefer a quick bite, The Picnic Cafe and Dessertery does a great breakfast, sandwiches, and ice creams.
5. Greensboro
Photo: Explore Georgia/Ralph Daniel
Georgia’s Lake Country, which includes human-made Lake Oconee, is a popular getaway for city dwellers. At its core is Greensboro, which has the picture-perfect charm you’d expect from a Hallmark movie, complete with the local newspaper office and antique shops.
While this charming small town may seem like an unexpected location for Thai food, Laman Bai Thai Kitchen has some of the best in the state. Try the larb pork salad before heading to The Yesterday Cafe for dessert for the world-famous buttermilk pie. Greensboro is also home to Oconee Brewing Company, a craft brewery with an ample patio space where you can enjoy one of their New England IPAs or Belgium-style farmhouse ales outdoors.
For those who enjoy a round of golf, the course on the shore of Lake Oconee, Reynolds Lake Oconee, is expansive and stretches over 300 miles of shoreline. On the grounds is the resort Ritz Carlton Reynolds Lake Oconee, which has an award-winning spa — a perfect place to relax after a long day of golf.
When in Greensboro, a quick detour to neighboring Eatonton is worth it to visit the Georgia Writers Hall of Fame, which honors writers from this region like Alice Walker, Flannery O’Connor, and Joel Chandler Harris.
6. Thomasville
Photo: Explore Georgia/Ralph Daniel
For the last century, visitors have flocked to the South Georgia town of Thomasville for its annual Rose Show and Festival in spring. A tradition since 1922, the town comes to life celebrating the rose and other flowers in its various flower shows, parades, and artisan markets. If you are visiting outside of the festivities, you can still enjoy the impressive groundskeeping and flora at the Thomasville Rose Garden. Thomasville is also home to a famous oak tree, appropriately named Big Oak. The tree is over 327 years old and has attracted notable visitors such as President Eisenhower.
The town prizes its locally owned eateries and artisans. In one block, you can sample the Thomasville Tomme, an aged, raw cow’s milk cheese at Sweet Grass Dairy; a comforting cup at Grassroots Coffee; and fried green tomatoes at Jonah’s Fish and Grits.
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17-year cicadas are emerging, and scientists are asking you to go on cicada safaris
With a mating call of up to 100 decibels, swarms of billions of Brood X periodical cicadas will be hard to miss as they make their way through 15 states in the eastern US. Scientists are expecting the species to pop up this May — “across a dozen states, stretching from Illinois to the west, Georgia to the south, and New York to the northeast,” NBC reported — and they are enlisting your help.
Billions of Brood X periodical cicadas come out every 17 years to mate, lay eggs, and die — all in the space of a few weeks.
Gene Kritsky, the dean of behavioral and natural sciences at Mount St. Joseph University in Cincinnati and the author of Periodical Cicadas: The Brood X Edition, has created an app called Cicada Safari so everyday citizens can help document the emergence of the insects and their peculiar life cycle.
“Using citizen science to help map periodical cicadas goes back to the 1840s when Gideon B. Smith wrote newspaper articles asking readers to send him details of where they saw cicadas,” Kritsky told Entomology Today. “By the time of his death in 1867, he had documented all the known broods of cicadas.”
To participate, just download the free app. When you find one of the periodical cicadas, take a photo and upload it to the app. After the photos are verified, they will be posted to the live map.
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Fly above Chernobyl in this aerial tour of the site of the worst nuclear disaster
There are many ways to visit Chernobyl, the site of the world’s worst nuclear disaster, but this aerial tour of the Exclusion Zone is unique. A flight operated by Ukranian International Airlines will take place on April 25 to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the Chernobyl catastrophe.
For $106, passengers will board an Embraer 195 plane from Kiev’s Boryspil Airport, for a flight above Kyiv and Chernobyl for birds-eye views of the Exclusion Zone around the power plant. The aircraft will be flying at the lowest altitude possible (3,000 feet) for passengers to get an eyeful of the area. A professional guide will provide passengers with details about the terrible 1986 accident.
Passengers on the commemorative flight will also have the opportunity to take a photo in the cockpit and a selfie with the pilot. They’ll also be entered into a drawing to win a one-day tour of the Exclusion Zone.
Flights to nowhere have become somewhat of a trend during the pandemic, but their environmental impacts have been severely criticized.
Bohdan Skotnykov, UIA’s head of project for the tour, told CNN, “To be honest, this tour was made possible only due to the pandemic. There is an available aircraft and our team has some free time to do creative projects.”
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China’s 10 proposed new national parks will be epic
China announced in 2015 a pilot program to develop a series of national parks. Although COVID-19 slowed down the implementation, the process took major steps forward last year with the opening of Giant Panda and Sanjiangyuan national parks — with eight more to follow. The 10 parks will cover 12 Chinese provinces and protect the habitats of dozens of endangered species.
It’s too early to tell whether the parks will be effectively managed and actually increase habitat for these species, or whether the parks will develop a sustainable tourism model that can complement conservation efforts with education and recreation. But the plan is underway, and here’s what we know so far.
How the new parks fit into China’s current protected lands
Photo: aphotostory/Shutterstock
At over 3.7 million square miles in size, China is bigger than the Lower 48 US states. And although pristine natural wilderness may seem a world away from central Beijing or Shanghai, China is full of wilderness. At least 18 percent of China’s total landmass is protected under national conservation regimes like national parks, reserves, and natural spaces, according to Xinhuanet. The 10 new national parks in China cover about 85,000 square miles, or 2.3 percent of China’s total land, a significant step in both land and water conservation. That’s about two-thirds the size of the United States’ national parks system.
Those behind the creation of the parks, who include Chinese President Xi Jinping, hope that their creation will spur economic development through tourism, providing a lifeline to communities living in or near the parks. Some, however, will be offered a voluntary relocation by the government, National Geographic reported, which also noted that 99 percent of China’s impoverished counties are located within 60 miles of previously existing nature reserves of one kind or another. The long-term impact on these communities is not yet known, but the hope is that tourism will be a boon that provides jobs and improves the quality of life.
A new entity to manage the national parks
Photo: Jarrod Chen/Shutterstock
No guidelines for recreation within the parks have been released, and much is still to be determined about how the parks will be staffed. The first goal of the pilot national parks appears to be consolidating smaller reserved areas under one larger umbrella of management.
That new management, the National Forestry and Grassland Administration, was set up by China to manage the new parks and future developments, and to oversee conservation and law enforcement. This is in place of the various oversight undertaken by provincial and local governments, according to the People’s Daily.
It is unclear whether that entity will prove more nimble in managing these conservation areas. The National Forestry and Grassland Administration originally hoped to have all 10 parks in operation by the end of 2020, but plans were upended by the pandemic. While no news has been released at the time of publication about any next steps for these new parks in China, multiple Chinese news sites suggest the parks will “undergo assessments” in the coming years.
Focusing on national characteristics
Photo: Adel Newman/Shutterstock
The best example of how China’s new national park system is designed to work is Giant Panda National Park, which stretches across parts of Sichuan, Ningxia, and Shaanxi provinces. The park is the conglomeration of 77 different protected areas, including 67 previously established panda reserves. As noted above, part of the National Forestry and Grassland Administration’s goal is to streamline the management of conservation areas, and the hope is that one system is easier to manage than 77 different ones.
If you visit Giant Panda National Park, you’ll be greeted by a large panda mural more reminiscent of children’s cartoons than of actual pandas in the wild. The park’s name and image reflect another goal of the parks, which according to SUPChina, is to highlight “protected areas with Chinese characteristics.” In this case, the pandas are the characteristic being protected; more so than the natural habitat they live in.
The other pilot national parks
Photo: Dennis W Donohue/Shutterstockwinter snow scene
All 10 pilot national parks aim to protect the habitats of several endangered species. In Hainan, the habitat of the elusive black crested gibbon, among the most vulnerable primates on the planet, is protected at Hainan Tropical Rainforest Pilot National Park.
The first park to be established was Sanjiangyuan National Park in the northwest province of Qinghai. This is the largest park and protects the sources of three of China’s largest rivers: the Yellow, the Yangtze, and the Lancang (also known as the Mekong). Along the Russian border in China’s northeast, the National Park for Siberian Tigers and Siberian Leopards aims to protect, you guessed it, Siberian tigers and leopards.
Visitors will eventually be able to tour the parks, though no formal guidelines for camping, hiking, or other recreational activities have been released.
Other pilot national parks include:
Shennongjia National Park — This Hubei Province area is home to multiple endangered species including the clouded leopard and Sichuan snub-nosed monkey.
Qianjiangyuan National Park — In Zhejiang Province, it lies at the source of the Qiantang River.
Mount Nanshan National Park — This reserve in Hunan Province hosts thousands of migratory birds.
Mount Qilian National Park — Covering Qinghai and Gansu provinces, this ecosystem is home to snow leopards and white-lipped deer.
Pudacuo National Park — Located in Yunnan Province, this is home to more than 20 percent of China’s known species of flora.
Mount Wuyi National Park — This Fujian Province region houses the South China tiger and hairy-fronted muntjac.
Great Wall National Park — This area protects the World Geopark, the Badaling and Ming Dynasty Tombs, the Badaling Forest Park, and the parts of the Great Wall near Beijing.
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A luxurious river cruise launches in Europe, but the itinerary is a secret
How would you feel about spending $6,999 on a cruise without even knowing where you’re going? That’s the leap of faith Uniworld Boutique River Cruises is asking you to take. The cruise line is offering a 10-day Mystery Cruise through Europe, setting sail June 12, 2022.
Every detail of the luxury river cruise is a complete surprise, from the itinerary to the specific excursions. Type A travelers and organizers who crave control should probably steer clear. To truly enjoy, this experience requires an impressive level of impulsiveness, spontaneity, and some savings in the bank.
The hefty cost encompasses every aspect of the trip, including flights, offshore excursions, gourmet meals, accommodations, and more. The catch is, you won’t know your itinerary until you’re headed to the airport. A packing list will be provided prior to takeoff, but otherwise, you’ll be flying blind.
Photo: New York Botanical Garden/Facebook
The company has won countless awards for its impeccable level of hospitality and its fleet of boutique river cruise ships look like floating five-star hotels. And while no details have been released, Uniworld promises that this is a “once-in-a-lifetime vacation that will leave you amazed at every turn…If you know Uniworld, you know we have a knack for meticulously curating everything from the grandest affairs down to our signature Tiny Noticeable Touches®. So, while you might be heading into your cruise not knowing what to expect, you can expect a masterpiece.”
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April 20, 2021
The ultimate ‘work and play’ road trip through Utah’s canyon country
We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay, and listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
The work-travel balance depends on three things: good Wi-Fi, strong coffee, and plenty of room for activities. Utah has all three in abundance, an entire state that is an unabated haven for outdoor recreation with pockets of adventure-town vibrancy from which to post up with your laptop. Utah is home to the most explorable canyon country in the American West, where you can mix popular activities like hiking and biking with more specialized excursions like canyoneering, river sports, and rock climbing.
Canyon country is best explored in spring when the summer heat is out of season, but it’s still warm enough to adventure in a T-shirt, and the summer crowds have yet to arrive. The classic desert road trip lends itself to camping, but it’s tough to get any work done in the wilderness. That’s why, for nomad life or shorter adventure trips where remote work is a necessity, having a base in town is ideal. This Utah road trip itinerary is designed for one week and to maximize your adventure without sacrificing productivity. You could extend it to two weeks or even an entire season.
Start in Moab for desert adventures, mountain biking, and two national parks
Photo: tusharkoley
A lifetime exploring Utah’s national parks and desert canyonlands isn’t enough time to see everything. Canyon country stretches from southern to eastern Utah, with Moab and the surrounding Canyonlands and Arches National Parks as the modern hub of what used to be home to the Ancestral Puebloans some 10,000 years ago. Start early (like 7 AM at the latest) — at Arches National Park on day one. Delicate Arch is the park’s most famous, and the two-hour round-trip hike to it is beautiful but can be crowded. Head instead to the Devil’s Garden Trailhead at the top of the park, and embark on a three-hour round-trip hike on the Devil’s Garden Primitive Trail. You’ll pass Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch almost immediately; Navajo, Partition, and Landscape Arches along the loop trail’s west side; then Double O and Dark Angel arches farther along. If you choose to take the offshoot at the top of the trail, Private Arch is your reward.
Day two in Moab is time to experience the area’s trails outside the parks. If you’re a mountain biker, head to the Navajo Rocks trail system, home to the 16.9-mile Navajo Rocks Loop and other trails ideal for mid-level riders. For a hike rather than a bike ride, consider either the Corona Arch Trail, a three-hour round trip across Slickrock, to a beautiful arch not visible from the road. The trailhead is on Potash Road across Highway 191 from Arches National Park, five to 10 minutes off the highway. Or try the Mill Creek North Fork Trailhead, which rewards you with a waterfall and swimming hole in which to cool off after the hike.
Photo: prochasson frederic/Shutterstock
For a day in Canyonlands National Park, plan out the adventure in advance because the park is divided into “districts” that are not necessarily easily accessible to each other. The best plan of action is to pick one district and plan to spend the day there. For a one-day experience, head to Island in the Sky, about 45 minutes from Moab. Start early to hit sunrise at Shafer Canyon Overlook. The light filling the canyon from The Neck is an incredibly inspiring experience. Then, head to the Upheaval Dome Trail for a 1.6-mile (3.2-mile round-trip) out-and-back hike to another overlook, or take the Aztec Butte Trail, 1.2 miles out-and-back, to Ancestral Puebloan ruins. If you’re feeling loose, both are doable in a day. Several viewpoints present themselves on the road between Upheaval Dome and the park entrance. Stop, have lunch, and snap some photos to cap a great morning at the Island in the Sky.
Where to work and stay in Moab
Photo: Wangkun Jia/Shutterstock
US Highway 191, Main Street, as it runs through the heart of town, is lined with hotels and lodges, shops, and dining. Moab Coffee Roasters is an excellent place for java and Wi-Fi, with Red Rock Bakery & Cafe being a solid option as well. The Moab Brewery is an evening favorite for craft beer and spirits made next door, with burgers, chicken sandwiches, and their famous jalapeño fries leading the menu. The lounge area in the lobby at Hyatt Place Moab is perfect for working, essentially a free on-site coworking space consisting of a long counter lined with outlets to plug into and desks, chairs, and sofas for relaxed working. The hotel is located at the trailhead to the short but sweet Prospector Trail, so you can get out for a lunchtime hike or bike ride right from the hotel and finish your shift with a drink at the on-site bar. The outdoor pool and hot tub area is great for a post-session recharge, especially as the sun sets over the canyons due west. Rates vary from just over $100 to upward of $500.
Off the main strip, Airbnbs are more prevalent and offer a better place to post up for extended stays. The Adventure Time townhouse, south of the city center, offers a comfortable pad with good Wi-Fi and easy access to Castle Valley, Sand Flats and the Whole Enchilada biking areas, and the La Sal Mountains. With rates as low as $88 per night and room for up to six guests in two bedrooms, this is an ideal home away from home when productivity is critical.
Head west to Capitol Reef National Park
Photo: Galyna Andrushko/Shutterstock
Southern Utah’s canyon country is home to the trifecta of epicness: Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef National Parks, and Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. The towns of Escalante, Tropic, and Torrey make ideal basecamps between the three and are a great way to view this area that has historically been home to many Indigenous groups. Capitol Reef National Park is about 2.5 hours from Moab and the next stop on this itinerary.
Here, sandstone canyons and rock formations make for unique short hikes, with multiple doable in one day and much of the park possible in two. Two quick and easy viewpoint hikes include the Goosenecks Trail, which overlooks the park’s famed gooseneck-shaped canyons, and Sunset Point Trail, which takes you to cliff overlooks for less than a half-mile’s worth of effort. For a longer hike, check out the 1.7-mile Cohab Canyon Trail or the 2.4-mile Castle Trail, both out-and-backs that can be done in two to three hours.
Part of the Capitol Reef experience is driving the 7.9-mile Scenic Drive from the visitor’s center. You’ll look out over rock-lined peaks and even drive through some of the canyons. Be sure to stop at the Gifford Homestead within the park, which famously sells homemade pie along with jams and other fun goods.
Spend one day in Bryce Canyon National Park and another at Grand Staircase Escalante
Photo: silky/Shutterstock
Bryce Canyon National Park is unlike the rest of Utah’s parks in that it is relatively compact. One day is enough to take in the crazy-looking, spired hoodoos and rock pillars. Hit the visitor’s center at 8:00 AM, then head out on Queen’s Garden Trail before the park fills up with visitors. Then park at Sunset Point, take some photos, and make the short hike to Sunrise Point and the field of pillars it overlooks. Then hit Inspiration Point, the best place to get an eyeful of hoodoos all in one place.
The next day, make the short drive to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. More hoodoos await at Devil’s Garden, as do rock arches and hikes leading to vast overlooks. For a unique experience, head to Zebra Slot Canyon, a challenging hike through the striped canyon walls accessible from Hole in the Rock Road. Here, you’ll likely have to wade through waist-deep water at points as the slot canyon swallows the trail.
Where to work and stay near the parks
Photo: Airbnb
Bryce Canyon Coffee Co. in Tropic is the spot to grab a cup of joe and a table with Wi-Fi near Bryce Canyon, with Dark Sky Coffee in Torrey being a good option near Capitol Reef. Outside the town of Torrey and minutes from Capitol Reef National Park, Dark Sky House is a stylishly modern place to stay after a rustic day of adventuring. Rates start around $160 per night, with room for four guests in two bedrooms.
An apartment in Tropic makes for a great setup for work and play. This one-bedroom apartment is just outside Bryce Canyon National Park. Take advantage of the work desk and spacious living quarters while at home, and stock up the full kitchen, so you aren’t running out each time hunger strikes. The host promises strong internet. Rates start under $200 per night.
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YETI now makes amazing luggage and these three pieces are our favorites
We hope you love the gear and products we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
For years, YETI has been the gold standard for outdoor adventure gear. Whether you’re hiking a Fourteener, going backcountry camping, taking a week-long rafting trip, or just hanging the “gone fishing” sign on your door for an afternoon, YETI is known for its durable and utility-focused gear. While they’re most famous for their coolers and water bottles, they’ve just released a brand new line of luggage that should be on any adventurer’s wish list. These are the three pieces in YETI’s new luggage collection that we’re most excited about.
Crossroads Packing Cubes
Photo: YETI
When it comes to backwoods adventuring, there’s no one-size-fits-all. You don’t want to be stuffing all your clothes, cables, water bottles, and granola bars into a small bag that won’t close, but you also don’t want to bring a massive, bulky bag on a short hike that only requires a tote. YETI’s packing cubes are an excellent tool for hikers who thrive on variety and flexibility. The small packing cube is 5.25’ x 6.5” x 2.5’, and it’s perfect for storing smaller items like socks, phone and laptop cables, and protein bars. The medium cube is 6.5” x 10.5” x 2.5,” and better-suited for carrying a light change of clothes. The large cube is 10.5” x 13 x 2.5,” and ideal for heftier items like beach towels, rain jackets, and sweatshirts. A handy expansion zipper helps maximize your space and ensures you can fit everything you need.
Price: $24.99-$34.99
Crossroads 60L Duffel
The 60L Duffel combines all the organizational capability of a suitcase with the sheer volume of a traditional duffel bag. Perfect for camping, road trips, and extended vacations, the duffel has plenty of room for all your essentials and quite a few nonessentials too. It’s equipped with divider panels separating the bag into three sections for organizing your gear and compression straps to secure it. You can even fold the dividers away when you’re not using them to create more space. Structured foam walls help maintain the bag’s structural integrity.
Price: $199.99-$249.99
Crossroads 27L Backpack
It’s called backpacking for a reason. The experience and the gear go hand-in-hand, so it’s essential to have the right equipment before embarking. Contrary to popular belief, the perfect backpacker’s backpack doesn’t have to be four-feet long. The Crossroads Backpack has the capacity and durability for your next epic backpacking trip, complete with water and abrasion-resistant TuffSkin Nylon material. The bag has “Sidehustle” pockets for easy access on-the-go and a clamshell opening that provides a suitcase-like packing experience. The bag comes in 22L, 27L, and 35L, though the 35L could easily substitute for a bulkier suitcase, making your trip through the airport much smoother.
Price: $199.99-$249.99
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