Matador Network's Blog, page 643
June 2, 2021
On queer cruises, you can truly be yourself, and these are the best to take
When Leonard Sullivan embarked on an Atlantis Events cruise in 2003, he wasn’t sure what to expect. “A close friend won two free tickets for showing his bum during a ‘Best Butt Competition’ at Splash in NYC,” he recalls. Sullivan, an NYC resident, was the lucky beneficiary of the second ticket. This would be his maiden voyage on a queer-centered cruise.
Splash, an iconic New York gay bar that opened in 1991, shuttered in 2013 — a common casualty in an exhausting list of queer establishments killed in recent years by digital apps and gentrification.
Atlantis Events, on the other hand, is steadily growing in popularity. The company threw its first shindig in 1991 and only attracted 300 attendees. Today, Atlantis hosts over 20,000 guests annually on multiple cruise ships around the world. Its 30th-anniversary cruise, set for January 2022, is already sold out. For some queer people, queer cruises fill a void once occupied by gay bars.
“There’s a difference between being at a gay bar, where nowadays, people go to hang out with friends more than they go to meet people,” Sullivan says. “At home, you can meet people on apps. On a cruise, you can meet people face to face.”
Since 2003, Lenoard has been on three more Atlantis excursions, including trips to the Hawaiian Islands, the Caribbean, and Europe’s western coast. On his last queer cruise in 2017, he celebrated a close friend’s 40th birthday. They met during his first journey nearly twenty years prior.
The accessibility of queer cruising
Photo: Atlantis Events/Facebook
Friends aren’t the only easy things to find while cruising. A queer cruise is like a buffet for seasoned vagabonds and a starter kit for virgin travelers. “Everything you could want is easily accessible onboard,” Sullivan notes. There’s an abundance of activities, fine-dining options, world-renowned performances, and unparalleled nightlife.
The port-side excursions make pricey international travel accessible, too. “On a cruise, you can get a taste for multiple countries, dabble in different cultures, and decide where you’d like to go back in the future,” he says.
Although the libidinous circuit party atmosphere of Atlantis might not be everyone’s style, Sullivan praises the experience’s versatility. “What I like about these cruises is that they can be for every type of gay person,” he says. “At 6:00 AM, there are old men playing canasta and watching the sunrise while an afterparty in the basement is just letting out for the night. You can sit by the pool. You can surf. On top of that, you can see tons of amazing drag performers and gay comedians brought on the ship by Atlantis.” In his travels, he’s seen everyone from brassy belter Patti LuPone to comedian kinkster Margaret Cho.
Photo: Atlantis Events/Facebook
Julia Murney, a Broadway star who recently sang on a 2019 Atlantis cruise in French Polynesia, remembers there being “1,300 gay men, nine lesbians, and me.”
While she might’ve been the lone straight woman on the ship, she always felt welcomed. “I have a sneaking suspicion the kindness was related to the group of people on board,” she says. “I don’t know how it feels when you have to wonder if you can safely take your sweetheart’s hand in public. I hate that it’s a question that [LGBTQ] people have to ask. But I can imagine what it’s like on a vacation where you don’t have to think about it.”
On his last cruise, Sullivan met a few men from Egypt, where LGBTQ individuals regularly face discrimination and persecution. “These cruises are gay Christmas for me,” he says, “so for them, it must be another level of freedom.”
The ease cruise ships afford travelers is one of the many reasons the industry is starting to recover from the pandemic, albeit slowly. According to the Cruise Lines International Association, two-thirds of cruisers will hop on a ship in the coming year, and over half of international travelers without cruising experience will try it out in the next few years.
When it comes to cruising, queer travelers are some of the most excited to hit the poop deck. Atlantis isn’t the only event company to profit this year — LGBTQ-oriented summer trips hosted by Vacaya and Out Adventures have already sold out, too.
An array of queer cruise optionsPhoto: Olivia
People might associate LGBTQ cruises with nightly Atlantis-style raves, but queer voyages come in all colors of the rainbow. Olivia Travel — a lesbian-centric tour operator — is regarded as the lady-loving equivalent of Atlantis. The company hosts around twenty trips every year, including cruises, adventure outings, riverboat tours, and resort stays. Its first all-lesbian cruise set sail in 1990, and today, it’s one of the only cruise companies dedicated to providing boat adventures specifically for the Sapphic set.
R Family Vacations — a cruise provider geared toward LGBTQ families and their allies — was designed to provide queer travelers a safe, judgment-free place to relax. In 2004, Murney performed on the company’s inaugural voyage. “This is the kind of cruise where two dads and their children come on board with one of their brothers, his wife, and their entire family,” she says. “Everyone is welcome.”
Since 2004, over 20,000 people have joined R Family Vacations for its one-of-a-kind experiences. “R Family’s reality is the correct reality — where a family is a family, and it doesn’t matter if there are two moms,” says Murney. “No one’s going to side-eye them.”
For those who find luxury-liner trips overwhelming, several cruise companies offer intimate boat tours instead. Out Adventures, an LGBTQ tour company, hosts private yacht cruises along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast and to the Galapagos Islands. The largest boat accommodates 40 travelers. Brand G River Cruises, a deluxe river cruise company with an average of 60-150 passengers, takes travelers along rivers like the Danube, the Amazon, the Seine, and the Ganges to get an in-depth taste of specific inland regions.
Murney, who has also performed on river cruises, holds them in high regard. “You always see land, they’re much less prone to seasickness, and it’s much more convenient to get to the heart of exciting cities than on a big boat.”
The cost of queer cruises
Photo: Atlantis Events/Facebook
There’s usually a hefty price tag associated with the freedom found on LGBTQ cruises, but due to the pandemic, 2021 might be a cost-effective year to hit the high seas. Before last March, fares on Atlantis began at around $1,500 per person. This Halloween, travelers can hop on a West Coast cruise from LA to Mexico for $700 — the same rates Atlantis charged for its inaugural voyage 30 years ago.
It’s important to note that none of these fees include traveling to or from the ship’s point of origin, and many ships offer payment plans for passengers with financial restrictions. If you’re looking for a deal, be prepared to plan ahead — companies like Atlantis and Olivia often sell out a year or two in advance.
As for intimate cruises with companies like Out Adventures, prices begin around $4,000. With a high barrier to entry, it’s common for guests to be older and wealthier, with the median age onboard in the 50s or above. Atlantis Events attracts a slightly younger crowd from their early 30s to early 50s.
The price doesn’t end with the boat, either. Most gay cruises host elaborate theme nights where guests strut their stuff in costumes so intricate they give Bob Mackey a run for his money.
“Plan all your outfits for theme parties before arriving,” Sullivan suggests. “As much as you think you can throw something together last minute, you will want to be prepared.”
These nights become a competition in creativity and a celebration of queerness. “I’d love to see the overweight and extra-luggage fees for the people on board,” Murney muses about her Atlantis adventure, “because [the guests] came for the outfits. I mean full wigs, shoes — everyone was fully committed to the fantasy.”
Julia’s phone is filled with pictures of the most outrageous costumes she saw on the ship. There’s a team of bears in pink tutus, a gaggle of older men dressed as lady nurses, a smiling couple in leather regalia, and a muscled jock dressed as a baby shark.
In one picture, she points out a man wearing an inflatable wig as part of a campy high-seas drag ensemble. “Now that’s practical,” Murney giggles. The man in the picture tilts his head toward the sky and smiles like Debbie Reynolds playing the Unsinkable Molly Brown — eternally joyful.
Cruises you need to check out in 2021Atlantis Events: The brand-new Greek Isles Cruise from August 15 to 22 will explore six Mediterranean destinations, including man-packed Mykonos and sun-kissed Santorini. The journey begins and ends in Athens. All guests and crew must be fully vaccinated for COVID-19.
The 4,000-person Bliss Halloween Cruise will haunt the high seas from October 31 to November 7, making stops in queer Mexican enclaves like Puerto Vallarta. The spookiest thing about this voyage? It’s actually affordable. Prices start at $699.
Olivia Travel: Explore the cerulean Pacific waters around French Polynesia on the Tahitian Intimate Luxury Cruise from September 2 to 9. With only 150 LGBTQ women on board, this week-long excursion will be a relaxing way to dip your toes into group travel without getting overwhelmed.
The Alaska and Glacier Bay Adventure Cruise from August 6 to 13 is a must-do for ladies who love nature. A park ranger will accompany guests for two days in Glacier Bay National Park, where the prospect of seeing glacial icebergs, seal pups, and soaring eagles isn’t just a possibility — it’s an expectation.
R Family Vacations: OUT on the Douro, a family-friendly LGBTQ cruise from August 1 — August 8, will weave its way through UNESCO-protected landscapes in Portugal and Spain on the S.S. São Gabriel — the newest ship to grace the Douro River.
Out Adventures: The Ecuador Galapagos Gay Cruise from November 13 to 21 boasts sunbathing with seal pups and swimming with marine wildlife. But don’t get too excited — hopeful travelers must join a waitlist if they want to experience an Out Adventure cruise this year. The company’s next available bookings aren’t until 2022.
Brand G River Cruises: The Prague and Danube River Cruise from August 16 to 25 will take guests from Passau to Melk, Vienna, Bratislava, and Budapest — a fun and efficient way to see Eastern Europe’s hottest spots with queer companions. 
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Alabama white sauce stars in the underrated barbecue style you need to try
There’s no denying that Southern states are known for barbecue: vinegar-based sauce on pork in North Carolina (or with a vinegar-ketchup mix Lexington style if you’re in the western part of the state), all things brisket in Texas, and a sweet molasses-based sauce on ribs in Kansas City. Deep in the heart of the South in Alabama, however, there’s a regional barbecue style that gets a lot less love from out-of-state barbecue fans: chicken drenched in Alabama white sauce.
Many of the most popular barbecue sauces are made for beef or pork. Alabama white sauce started as explicitly a chicken sauce — though few would complain about turkey, pork, fish, coleslaw, or potato salad smothered in the mix. Depending on who you ask, it’s also the perfect dip for all manner of fried foods, and some even use it as a condiment for burgers.
Alabama white sauce is, as the name suggests white, which immediately sets it apart from the more common vinegar, mustard, or tomato-based sauces. Recipes vary by who’s doing the cooking, but it always starts with a mayonnaise base and has apple cider vinegar, lemon juice, and black pepper thrown in the mix.
According to legend, it was created by Big Bob Gibson in 1925 in Decatur, Alabama. He needed a way to keep his barbecue chicken moist as it cooked for hours in a hand-dug pit during home cookouts. Mayo was the answer. Gibson’s cooking became so popular that he left his job working with a railroad company and opened a barbecue joint that served pork and his famous chicken with Alabama white sauce.
Gibson’s children, then grandchildren, and now great-grandchildren have kept the tradition alive over the past century along with a few other purveyors in the state.
Even after all these years, Alabama and its signature sauce lacks the recognition that other barbecue sauces and styles get. Yet for barbecue chicken fans, there are few better condiments to season on your slow-cooked bird.
An underappreciated style waiting for it’s time to shine
Photo: Saw’s BBQ
It’s often hard to nail down why one food makes national waves while others stay under the radar. Sometimes all it takes is a viral TikTok for seemingly every corner of the country to focus on a recipe. Alabama white sauce has not had that shot at fame yet.
“Honestly, it’s just a smaller market that doesn’t get as much national attention, and it being used primarily only for chicken doesn’t help,” says Matthew Statham, chef at Saw’s BBQ, which has multiple locations in Alabama. “Mayo can be so polarizing, it may hold it back. Also, with it being created and primarily used for chicken, it limits the amount of backyard barbecue that it will impact.”
Still, when someone finds Alabama white sauce and becomes a fan, it really hits. Two of the top four sellers at Saw’s BBQ come with white sauce, Statham says, “and for a place primarily founded on pork, which doesn’t come with it on the menu, that’s quite a large percentage.”
Statham isn’t the only one, and Alabama white sauce is slowly making its way to other states. Denver-based spice company Savory Spice sells an Alabama white sauce. Cofounder Mike Johnston created it as part of a collection of eight sauces inspired by his favorite regional barbecue flavors. Duce Raymond of Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ in the Chicago area created his own as well and calls it Alabama White Gold. Raymond hadn’t seen the sauce style in his part of the country, but added it to his menu after trying Gibson’s original at a National Barbecue Association event.
“There’s really something special about it,” Raymond says. At Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ, the chicken is submerged in buttermilk, pickle juice, salt, and sugar overnight, then gets a barbecue rub before it’s cooked in the smoker. Finally, the chicken is doused in Alabama white sauce and grilled.
“We describe it as when the magic happens,” Raymond says. “With the brined chicken on the grill with the Alabama white sauce basted on right at the end that covers the chicken, it’s some of the best flavors in the world.”
That doesn’t mean everyone is a fan right from the start. Barbecue is steeped in traditions and once barbecue fans find the sauce they like (especially when it’s a regional specialty) they tend to stick with it. Raymond has seen the hesitancy to change among his own customers. His dad started Sweet Baby Ray’s — one of the most popular barbecue sauce brands in the country — and he notes there was some resistance when he initially changed the chicken on the menu at the Sweet Baby Ray’s restaurant to one made with Alabama white sauce.
“When people hear about it they’re like, ‘No we want the normal,’” Raymond says. “But people who try it say, ‘This is amazing.’ So there’s a little bit of a learning curve. The biggest challenge is just getting people to try something new.”
The keys to a proper Alabama white sauce
Photo: Big Bob Gibson
The sauce has taken on a few modifications over the years, though the key characteristics remain: “It needs to be thin and creamy with a tangy bite,” Michael Kimball, the test kitchen manager at Savory Spice, says, adding that “mayo and vinegar are the essential ingredients.”
Savory Spice makes its variation with a smoky spice blend, horseradish, and plenty of alliums (the plant family that includes onions and garlic). Raymond makes his version a touch sweeter and adds horseradish and a little cayenne to the mayonnaise, vinegar, and lemon juice.
“The acidity of Alabama White brightens and heightens flavor while fat-filled mayo helps carry fat-soluble flavor compounds to your taste buds,” Kimball says. “This flavor-enhancing combo makes whatever you put it on taste better and more like itself and adds a complementary horseradish bite.”
Despite being picked up and sold outside of the state, the verdict is still out for when Alabama white sauce gets to the level of fame as Carolina vinegar sauce or thick and saccharine Kansas City sauce. Still, Alabama white sauce is a hit wherever it goes. Raymond sells Alabama White Gold at his restaurant and online through his company Duce’s Wild. It’s currently the brand’s bestselling sauce, and sales top even the competition sauce that Raymond considers his flagship.
“It just really depends on where you’re from and what you’ve been exposed to,” Raymond says. “I think Alabama chicken [with white sauce] is something that could be a lot more popular, but people just have to be exposed to it.”
Where to try Alabama white sauce
Photo: Duce’s Wild
Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Que in Alabama: The one that started it all. The restaurant still puts the original sauce on chicken platters and sandwiches, or if you’re really looking to fill the table, you can order whole chickens that come with a pint of the sauce (or just order a bottle online and use the original Alabama white sauce for whatever you’d like).
Where: 1715 6th Ave SE (US Highway 31) Decatur, AL 35601 and 2520 Danville Road, SW Decatur, AL 35603
Saw’s BBQ in Alabama: Described as “savory sweet,” Saw’s puts its white sauce on its popular smoked chicken, which you can order by the plate or in a sandwich. The sauce only makes it on two menu items, but they’re among the most popular. You can also purchase the restaurant’s white sauce to take home.
Where: Multiple locations in the Birmingham metro area
Sweet Baby Ray’s Barbecue in Illinois: One of the rare barbecue spots selling Alabama white sauce outside of the namesake state. You can order it on pulled chicken, a half chicken, or a whole chicken, or get it online from Duce’s Wild.
Where: 249 E. Irving Park Road Wood Dale, IL 60191 and 800 E. Higgins Rd Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
At home: In addition to the locations above that fill online orders for white sauce, Savory Spice shop sells its small-batch white sauce for all your grilling needs.
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Ireland will welcome American travelers again in July
Ireland will soon be easing its border restrictions and welcoming American travelers.
Currently, according to the US embassy in Ireland, Americans who want to travel to Ireland need to show proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test 72 hours before their arrival and undergo quarantine for 14 days.
Starting July 19, vaccinated travelers will be allowed to travel freely around Ireland without the need to take a COVID-19 test or quarantine. Unvaccinated travelers will need to show the results of a negative PCR test and quarantine until they obtain the result of a second test.
“If we continue to mind each other, if we continue to make the right choices, the end of this is within our grasp,” Prime Minister Micheál Martin said in a televised address.
Ireland is one of the many countries opening its doors to vaccinated travelers this summer. Restaurants and bars in Ireland will open up for indoor dining on July 5. Arts and sports events will resume indoors and outdoors on the same day, but with restrictions on attendance.
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June 1, 2021
Win $15,000 toward your dream vacation thanks to Affirm and Henry Golding
After a challenging year to travel in 2020 (to say the least), 2021 is looking a lot different. Just one of more visible ways it’s different: the many companies doing vacation giveaways, from App in the Air gifting $5,000 in free flights to United Airlines giving free flights for a year to one lucky person.
Another one of the businesses doing a travel giveaway is Affirm, a company that offers loans for smaller purchases that you can pay back over time without opening a credit card. It promises a “flexible, transparent, and convenient way” to pay back those loans without any added fees. And after a year of pent-up FOMO and longing for a getaway, the company believes you deserve that dream vacation and wants to give you between $5,000 and $15,000 to take it.
During the month of June, Affirm is offering a month worth of travel giveaways. Each week, the company has partnered with a celebrity who shares an affinity toward travel to give seven people $5,000 to take their dream getaway. And at the end of the month, one lucky person will win big when Affirm gifts them $15,000 for the vacation of their dreams. To enter, participants need to submit a photo that relates to each celebrity’s theme. Indya Moore from Pose, for example, is looking forward to city destination photos. Other stars featured include Nina Dobrev and Ashley Graham. And after watching Henry Golding from Crazy Rich Asians jet off to Singapore, it’s no wonder that his love for travel goes beyond the big screen — he’s partnered with Affirm to celebrate outdoor getaways.
“My experiences traveling around the world have had a huge impact in shaping my perspective, and I believe these experiences are more important than ever,” Golding said in a press release. “To that end, I’m partnering with Affirm as we both value inspiring travel. Affirm is committed to presenting possibilities for everyone to travel post-pandemic, and I’m excited to align with Affirm on this initiative!”
For more information and to throw your name into the hat, head to the Affirm website or follow along on Instagram.
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You can now take a free language class during your American Airlines flight
You can now do more with your in-flight entertainment than watch movies and TV shows on a tiny screen. American Airlines recently announced that passengers can take language classes on Rosetta Stone as well as learn new skills and hobbies through the creative learning community Skillshare.
The partnership with the two online education companies makes American Airlines the first to offer remote learning in the air, according to a press release. As of June 1, passengers can pick from more than 150 classes on what’s called the Lifestyle in-flight entertainment channel. You can pick up some common expressions in Italian, Spanish, French, German, Japanese, and Chinese through Rosetta Stone, for example, or learn how to draw maps and frame the perfect travel photo through Skillshare.
“The importance of personal enrichment has grown over the past year, but so have the varying priorities competing for our attention,” Clarissa Sebastian, managing director of premium customer experience and onboard products, said in the press release. “We are thrilled to team up with Rosetta Stone and Skillshare to introduce new, interactive ways for our customers to spend their time with us.”
Will a quick in-flight Rosetta Stone class give you the same amount of information as an immersive language experience? No, but it will make it easier to hit the ground running with terms and phrases you’re bound to need on your trips (just note that practicing your new words out loud probably breaks more than a few airplane etiquette rules). Likewise, a Skillshare class won’t make you an expert photographer, but it could improve your travel photos so that they’re something you actually want to share with friends and family when you get back.
Regardless of how in-depth you manage to get, one thing is true: It’s a whole lot more productive to do a little learning while you’re sitting on that hours-long flight than it is to endlessly scroll through the hundreds of movies that were made for the big screen.
The classes, as well as the up to 600 movies and TV shows, are available for free on all American flights by logging into the AA-Inflight Wi-Fi from your phone, tablet, or laptop. Now there’s no excuse for not knowing how to ask where to grab that taxi when you land.
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American and Southwest airlines ban alcohol on flights
American and Southwest airlines have both started an alcohol ban on flights until further notice. In May, Southwest announced that it would stop the sale of alcohol on board, and American has now joined in.
This comes after the incident where a passenger assaulted a Southwest flight attendant. According to the San Diego Police Department, the flight attendant had multiple injuries to her face and lost two of her teeth.
Afterward, in a memo acquired by CNN, Brady Byrnes, managing director of flight service at American, wrote to flight attendants: “Flight attendants are on the front lines every day not only ensuring our customers’ safety, but are also calming fears, answering questions, and enforcing policies like federally-required face masks.”
Byrnes added that alcohol can “contribute to atypical behavior from customers onboard.”
According to the FAA, since Jan. 1, it has received “approximately 2,500 reports of unruly behavior by passengers, including about 1,900 reports of passengers refusing to comply with the federal facemask mandate.”
Southwest has put off alcohol service until further notice, whereas American is only serving alcohol in business and first class for the time being.
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For exquisite taro dishes and insight into Tao culture, head to Taiwan’s Orchid Island
Picture yourself trudging through a muddy field on a humid summer day, bending over under a scorching sun while sweat is dripping down your face. You are purposefully, gently removing invasive apple snail eggs from the fan-like leaves of taro plants. The snails eat the plants you so anxiously protect, which are buried in the muddy ground, waiting to be harvested. This is the job of fewer and fewer Tao women on Orchid Island in Taiwan. They are the indigenous farmers whose job is to cultivate Orchid Island taro for the culture and diet of the island’s Tao community.
Taro is a type of root vegetable comparable to sweet potatoes. It has a fuzzy brown exterior like a coconut and a white and purple-flecked interior. Taro is a staple food among the indigenous people of the Hawaiian islands, and it holds a similarly beloved place in Taiwanese culture.
At Taiwan’s popular night markets, visitors and locals are treated to sweet desserts like taro bubble tea or taro ice cream, but taro’s versatility is part of its appeal: Dishes like taro soup or taro pancakes are often on the menu at local restaurants. Taro chips or taro bread are available at convenience stores all over Taiwan.
For all its ubiquity, anyone curious about the history and cultivation of this nutritious root crop should visit Orchid Island. Taro is a chief source of nutrition for the Tao, the indigenous residents of this island. In many ceremonial occasions, taro is used for offerings or is given as a gift when someone gets a new house or has a baby. At this small island just off the east coast of Taiwan, visitors can taste and experience traditional taro dishes and taro farming practices.
Who are Tao people?
Photo: weniliou/Shutterstock
The Tao people are one of the 16 indigenous tribes officially recognized by the Taiwanese government. They inhabit Orchid Island (also known as Ponso No Tao in the native Tao language and Lanyu in Mandarin), which is about a 20-minute plane ride from mainland Taiwan.
The Tao are believed to have arrived on Orchid Island some 800 years ago from the Philippines, according to Reuters. In 1895, Japan took control of Orchid Island, along with Taiwan, from the Chinese, but largely left the people alone to continue to practice their traditional lifestyle.
In 1945, control of Taiwan returned to the Chinese. Forced assimilation into Chinese culture resulted in the loss of the Tao language among the younger generations; Chinese authorities even bulldozed many traditional stone-built underground houses. In recent years, however, the Chinese government has granted the right of the Tao people to receive education in their own language, according to the Cultural Survival organization.
The island opened for tourism in 1967, and since then visitors have been able to experience indigenous language, ideologies, and customs. Here, you can see traditional Tatala boats that are often displayed along the beaches, and both hunting for flying fish and taro cultivation are still highly valued.
Another striking sight are the typical underground houses, constructed from stone to protect residents from typhoons and other local weather extremes. The local residents work hard to keep their culture alive among younger people on the island and the visitors. You can get more information on the history and culture of the island by visiting the local Lanyu Museum next to the airport to take a guided tour and see Tao artifacts on display.
The role of taro farming on Orchid IslandThe women farm Orchid Island taro. The sea is traditionally is the hunting ground for men, while the shallow water taro fields are the domain of women. A variety of taro species are grown in the shallow water taro fields, and are planted according to the water quality and soil characteristics of each field. Taro plants are cultivated in a sustainable way (without the use of pesticides), making this labor-intensive work. For some species of taro, it can take more than a year to fully grow and be ready for harvest.
The number of taro fields is decreasing due to pests and diseases or invasive species like the aggressive apple snail, which eat away the stems of taro plants. Younger generations are also moving away from the island to work in mainland Taiwan, which makes it harder to pass along indigenous farming knowledge. In order to combat that loss of knowledge, initiatives are often set up in local schools for young children to provide them with more traditional food for lunch and teach them about taro farming.
Popular taro dishes
Photo: elwynn/Shutterstock
Taro ice cream: Traditional taro ice cream has a creamy texture and a sweet and nutty flavor. Sometimes the ice cream contains small pieces of taro. Another popular ice cream dish is taro snowflake ice, which is made with ice that’s shaved in thin layers and served with condensed milk.
Nimay: This dish is traditionally prepared by women to replenish their husbands’ energy during flying fish season and crab season. Taro is boiled in a pot and then mashed with a wooden pestle until the texture becomes sticky, according to Indigenous Sight. Extra flavor is added to the taro paste from salt, and melted lard from a pork’s skin smoked over “burning reeds.” Nimay is often served with smoked pork skin or steamed crabs.
Steamed taro: Steamed taro, which is often boiled first, has a custard-like texture. It’s sometimes cut into cubes, steamed, and served with meat or fish. At dim sum restaurants, you might find steamed taro mixed with pork ribs and topped with a fermented black bean sauce.
Taro milk smoothie: This purple drink is made with mashed taro and milk that’s blended together in a smoothie or served as a boba tea.
Fried taro-flying fish buns: This taro dish is unique to Orchid Island, and consists of a fried bun filled with taro and the other traditional staple on the island: flying fish.
Where to eat taro on Orchid Island
Photo: cnfoodphoto/Shutterstock
Wenwen Taro Ice: The signature treat here is creamy taro ice cream, which comes flecked with pieces of taro. The shop offers other drool-worthy treats to cool you down in hot weather, including a green tea slurpy. For those in the mood for a savory dish, the shop also offers flying fish or curry chicken rice. Don’t forget to check out the many souvenirs and postcards that this roadside shop sells, too.
Where: No. 20, Hongtou Vil., Lanyu Township, Lanyu Taiwan
Epicurean Cafe: Widely considered the home of the best Tao dishes on the island, guests can expect flying fish, fried rice, and chilled taro balls at this restaurant. The cafe’s feline residents like to lounge around the premises, so be prepared for some company during your meal. You can make a reservation in advance on the cafe’s Facebook page.
Where: 952, Taiwan, Taitung County, Lanyu Township
Rover café: Beanbag chairs and hammocks lend this open-air café a laid-back atmosphere. The menu’s signature treat are the fresh fruit smoothies (where you’ll find a version made with taro of course) that can be enjoyed while overlooking the nearby Badai Beach.
Where: Rover Hostel 952, Taiwan, Taitung County, Lanyu Township
DongQing Night Market: At this small night market, visitors can explore exciting culinary offerings and snacks, from fresh seafood (oysters, snails, seaweed) to buns filled with taro and flying fish. The stalls in the central area provide seating where you can gather your treats and immerse yourself in the local flavors.
Where: Dongqing Village
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Climbers love Bishop, California, for its rocks, routes, vistas, and vibes
The small town of Bishop, California, in the eastern Sierras is home to an astounding amount of climbing — both bouldering and sport. For that, this region has for years been a draw for both professional climbers and novices. Getting to Bishop definitely means driving, but the town itself is so charming, with plentiful climbing opportunities and close-by camping, that climbers will come again and again to get to know it.
On a map, Bishop looks close to well-known places like Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks — but the Sierra Nevada range, with many peaks topping 14,000 feet, lies in the way. You need to cross that range either due north or south of it. In practice, this means that Bishop is as close a drive from LA as from Las Vegas: about 4.5 hours. From San Francisco, the drive will take you six hours. Mammoth Mountain, though, is 45 minutes away.
The Sierra Nevadas don’t just make for a stunning backdrop to your climbs in Bishop; they also keep away Pacific storms. That makes for clear skies that let you enjoy climbing in Bishop most of the year. Note that in December and January, you’ll have freezing overnight temperatures. Also, as with most desert regions, the summers can be pretty brutal; July highs can top 100 degrees.
Bishop’s Buttermilk boulders
Photo: Kat Carney/Shutterstock
Though there are several different areas to go climbing in Bishop, the town has become fairly synonymous with the Buttermilks, named for the dairy farming operation in the area in the 1870s. Huge mountains form the backdrop to this field of boulders, many of which are as tall as multi-story buildings. Professional climbers from the likes of Chris Sharma to Ashima Shiraishi to Alex Puccio have come to try the crimpy, granite highball problems on these massive boulders. (“Problems” is the term for climbing routes on boulders.)
The most famous of these boulders are the Peabodys, Grandma Peabody, and Grandpa Peabody. Grandpa Peabody has nine problems ranging from V4 to V16, none of which are for the faint of heart. While you may not be jumping onto one of these, it’s worth stopping to watch those skilled enough give it an attempt. The rough granite of the Buttermilk problems can make even the most seasoned boulderer whimper — so if you’re hoping to really send in this area, it can take days or even weeks for your skin to adapt.
The two other main bouldering areas are the Happys and the Sads, both located in the Volcanic Tablelands and full of problems with deep pockets and big jugs. Both these areas are a bit friendlier than the bouldering in the Buttermilks area. If you’re traveling solo, you can do many of these shorter problems with just one bouldering pad, unlike the highballs at the Buttermilks.
Owens River Gorge
Photo: robcocquyt/Shutterstock
Despite Bishop’s bouldering reputation, it also is home to California’s most concentrated sport climbing area, the Owens River Gorge. Just north of Bishop, this area has over 500 sport climbing routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.13c, which means they’re best for intermediate to expert climbers. It also has roughly 150 traditional, or trad, routes. Whereas sport climbing uses existing bolts, trad climbing involves carrying, placing, and then removing one’s own protective climbing gear.
Some climbs are as much as 150 feet high here, and the rock is tough, made of ancient molten lava, that offers plenty of ledges and crags. The 10-mile long gorge is broken down into six sections — North Gorge, Upper Gorge, Inner Gorge, Central Gorge, Lower Gorge, and Sub Gorge — with about a 5-10 minute approach to each. Most sections offer a mix of difficulty levels.
What to do after climbing
Photo: Jiri Ambroz/Shutterstock
If you’re planning to stay in Bishop for more than a couple of days, you’ll definitely need a rest day or two. Soak your tired muscles in one of the area’s hot springs. Keough’s Hot Springs has a hot tub and pool fed by natural hot springs and costs $10 for a day pass. Other free, primitive hot springs abound in the area so check out one of the local guidebooks or ask a local for the best spots.
No visit to Bishop is complete without a stop at Schat’s Bakery, famous for its Sheepherder’s bread and other delightful pastries and goods. This place is pretty much packed non-stop, but it’s worth the wait. On any given day you’ll find climbers congregating at Black Sheep, ordering coffee and breakfast burritos and posting Instagram photos with the free Wi-Fi.
If you’re in need of gear or guidebooks, head to Eastside Sports or Mammoth Moutaineering’s Gear Exchange. For craft beers and delicious eats, Mountain Rambler Brewery is another favorite. Mammoth is also located just 42 miles from Bishop — so depending on the time of year you’re climbing, you can spend your rest day skiing!
Where to stay
Photo: Geartooth Productions/Shutterstock
These are a variety of lodging options in Bishop from hotels like Best Western or Motel 6 to primitive camping and everything in between. The Hostel California is a fun place to stay in town and only costs $25/night for a dorm bed (or more for private rooms). The Pit campground, located close to the Happy and Sad bouldering areas, is the go-to camping spot for climbers and makes for great socializing or recruiting of a climbing partner. At $2/night and a max stay of 60 days, this is a great spot for posting up if you plan to be climbing in Bishop for several weeks.
The campgrounds have picnic tables, fire rings, pit toilets, dumpsters, and recycling bins, though no water. Half a mile down the road from the Pit is the Pleasant Valley Campground with sites adjacent to the Owen’s River at $14/night. If you’re too cheap for the Pit, you can camp at the Buttermilks on Forest Service Land for free. There are no amenities, but you’ll wake up to gorgeous views and just steps from climbing.
Tips for first-timers
Photo: Geartooth Productions/Shutterstock
You’ll definitely want to get a guidebook to help you manage all the different options for climbing in Bishop. For bouldering, grab Bishop Bouldering for a complete guide to all the bouldering areas in Bishop and for climbing at Owens River Gorge, check out Owens River Gorge Climbs. Both can be purchased at Eastside Sports in town.
With so much traffic to these areas, climber ethics is important. Don’t park or drive on any vegetation and use the outhouses at the various climbing areas. Remember, leave no trace.
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Iceland’s new Westfjords Way is a wild, empty alternative to the Ring Road
The best way to explore Iceland has always been on four wheels (or two, if you really want a challenge), as the land of fire and ice offers some iconic driving routes. The Golden Circle, a 140-mile loop, is the most well-known, thanks to its proximity to the capital Reykjavik and its big-hitting sights. Those with more time often opt to circle the island on Ring Road 1, which stretches nearly 830 miles.
But if you want to get off the beaten track and discover a side to the country that few visitors see, then you’ll want to try a new Iceland drive: Vestfjarðaleiðin (Vest-fyar-tha-lay-thin), or the Westfjords Way. It is Iceland’s newest auto route, located in the northwest of the country.
Until recently, the Westfjords remote location and challenging driving conditions have meant that only seven percent of travelers to Iceland chose to visit here. The arrival of the new 590-mile Westfjords Way looks to change this by making the region more accessible and easier to navigate. Here’s how to get the most of this new Iceland drive, including what to do and see along the way.
The basics on driving to the Westfjords
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The Westfjords is the northwestern peninsula that juts out toward Greenland. Geologically, it’s the oldest corner of Iceland, home to some of the most spellbinding scenery and edge-of-your-seat adventures. The new ring road, comprised of Roads 60 and 61, diverts north from the primary Route 1 about 120 miles north of Reykjavik and makes the Westfjords accessible for roughly nine months of the year. Snowfall can start in November and last until early March, closing off many of the roads in the area. There are plans to complete a new mountain road in 2023, which will open the region up year-round. In the meantime, plan your trip for spring or summer.
Many of the roads are unpaved in the Westfjords, so make sure you are comfortable driving in these conditions and that you have insurance to cover any damage caused by gravel to your rental car. Also, be aware that, like many an Iceland drive, distances between towns can be long — often a couple hours between those with services — so stock up on gas and food whenever you can.
An alternative would be to go with a guide; Hidden Iceland is a local company that offers small, personalized tours including trips to the Westfjords. If heading out on your own, allow between two and four days to explore the area.
Arriving in Westfjords
Photo: Daxiao Productions/Shutterstock
It takes roughly five hours to drive from Reykjavik to Gilsfjörður, the narrow fjord that separates the Westfjords from the mainland. Note that drive times provided on mapping services like Google Maps often vastly underestimate the amount of time it will actually take you to drive on these roads. From the capital, head out along Route 1 before branching off onto Road 60. Although traffic on the mainland is minimal, once you cross over into the Westfjords you’ll have the roads all to yourself.
The other thing you’ll notice is the scenery. Gone are the active volcanoes and lava fields of the “younger” mainland — to be replaced by sweeping green pastures and flat-topped mountains. Follow the Westfjords Way as it winds its way around the slate blue fjord waters and you will arrive at Hotel Heydalur, a guest house tucked away in a glacier scarred valley of the same name. If you have time, then this is a good place to base yourself for a couple of days. The hotel offers guided horseback tours along black sand beaches as well as sea kayaking and hiking.
Discover Isafjordur and the tiny island of Vigur
Photo: Menno Schaefer/Shutterstock
Not only is Isafjordur the largest town in the Westfjords; it’s also where you’ll discover some of the region’s best adventure activities. If you can get here during winter then the town’s ski resort is home to some serious backcountry skiing. In warmer months activities include snorkeling or diving in the cold but crystal clear fjord waters, paragliding, sea angling, kayaking, and hiking.
In town you can also visit the Westfjords Heritage Museum. It presents an interesting look at the area and its fishing history. Or grab a hearty pint at the three-year-old Dokkan Brugghús, which means Dock Brewery.
Make time for a boat trip with West Tours and spend a day visiting the island of Vigur. One of just three islands off the coast of Isafjordur, this tiny island is just 1.2 miles long and is inhabited by just one family. They live here year-round, accompanied in summer months by thousands of puffins and Eider ducks. The family makes their living collecting down from ducks and sending it off to Germany and Asia where it’s made into cozy — but costly — bedding and winter coats.
If your timing means that you miss the birds, Harpa seals visit throughout the year. They can usually be spotted lounging on the rocks. Two double rooms are available for overnight stays (inquire via the tour company for contact information) or you can camp.
Learn the legend of the Dynjandi Waterfall
Photo: Po S/Shutterstock
You will see lots of waterfalls on any Iceland drive — but you will only see one waterfall like this. Reaching a staggering 330 feet in height, the Dynjandi Waterfall, located on the shore of Arnarfjörður, is one of the tallest and most spectacular in a country full of mind-blowing falls. Local legend says that the waterfall is the bridal veil of a spurned giantess and the roar of the falls the sound of her crying.
Dynjandi means thunderous in Icelandic, and the falls are often called the “Bridal Falls” in English. However, this is not just one waterfall but a series of waterfalls, each with its own Icelandic name. Trails lead up the mountainside to various viewing points where you can see the mighty falls close-up.
Walk along the Látrabjarg sea cliffs
Photo: Menno Schaefer/Shutterstock
The Westfjords are home to another one of Iceland’s most dramatic sights, the Látrabjarg Sea Cliffs. These precipitous cliffs are the westernmost point in Europe and they rise dramatically from the ocean, reaching almost 1,500 feet in places. During summer months the cliff faces are home to tens of thousands of birds including razorbills, fulmars, puffins, arctic terns, and kittiwakes. If you want to see the birdlife, plan to visit between May and August. The cliffs stretch for nearly nine miles, offering plenty of walking opportunities. Just be sure to stay away from the fragile edge.
The closest town to the cliffs is Patreksfjörður. The road from here to the cliffs passes the Gardar BA 64 shipwreck, an old whaling boat grounded on the sand. Launched in 1912, this is the oldest steel ship to remain in Iceland. She’s rusty and slowly falling apart these days but well worth stopping for a photo op. If you have time you can also visit the red sand beach of Raudisandur.
Witness the Northern Lights
Photo: This Must Be The Place/Shutterstock
Thousands of visitors travel to Iceland every year hoping to catch a glimpse of the mysterious aurora borealis, and one of the best places to see them is the Westfjords. The region’s isolated position and small population mean that you stand a good chance of spying the colorful shifting shapes of the Northern Lights and won’t be part of a massive tour group in order to do so. You can spot this magical phenomenon from almost anywhere but some places to try include Ísafjörður, where minimal light pollution promises positive sightings.
From some places, you have to point north, but in Iceland you can pretty much spot them overhead, when they appear. At the Dynjandi Waterfall, the swirling colors are captured by the mist from the waterfall creating an additional light show. The Latrabjarg Cliffs also make for an incredible viewing platform. The best time to see the lights is between September and March. Make sure you download an aurora app or forecast and check it regularly. Much like the Westfjords themselves, the northern lights are wonderfully unpredictable.
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Travel guide to Maui's Upcountry
We all have different feelings about traveling right now. When you’re ready, we hope you feel safe, inspired, and excited to join us on the Island of Maui. Read more about current safety protocols.When you think of Maui, there’s a good chance that images of lavender fields, cool temps, and cowboys on horseback don’t instantly come to mind. You probably don’t picture yourself hiking through misty redwood forest or on a volcano that sometimes gathers a bit of snow. But you should.
Exploring Maui’s Upcountry — which includes the towns of Kula, Haiku, Pukalani, and Makawao — is a surefire way to get to know a different, more traditional side of this Hawaiian island. In the guide below, we’ve rounded up activities that come with ample elbow room, that show appreciation for simple island living, and that have little or nothing to do with beach-lounging and surfing. Here’s how to explore the other Maui.
First things first: What exactly is the Upcountry?
Photo: Tor Johnson/Hawaii Tourism Authority
Simply put, it’s a gorgeous stretch of land on the Haleakala side of Maui, largely set apart from the beaches. Think rolling green hills, thick forests filled with eucalyptus in place of palms, and pastures dotted with roaming cattle and goats. This is the home of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture, which is still practiced today.
The views you get in the region are surreal. Just ask Oprah — she has an estate in the area. Once you reach Maui’s highest elevations — topping out above 10,000 feet — in Haleakala National Park, the landscape turns barren, a cinder desert reminiscent of the moon’s surface. Be sure to bring layers if you’re planning a visit above the clouds — temps tend to be 10 degrees cooler than down by the beaches. This is the Upcountry, after all.
Where to stay
Photo: Lumeria Maui
One thing you won’t find in the Upcountry are Marriotts and Ritz-Carltons. Instead, accommodations trend toward small boutique hotels, B&Bs, and lodges with a healthy helping of personality.
For wellness seekers, Lumeria Maui, about 20 minutes from the Kahului Airport, is a solid choice. The 24-room boutique hotel located in Makawao offers classes in horticulture, yoga, dance therapy, and hula. When you’re ready to wind down, hammocks, sound meditation, and a saltwater hot tub are at the ready.
Meanwhile, at Kula Lodge, a ‘40s-era hotel on the western slopes of Haleakala Crater, taking it slow is easy to do. There are no TVs in the lovably kitschy rooms (WiFi is available in the restaurant), which means you have no excuse not to kick back in a rocking chair and finish that novel you started ages ago.
Where to eat
Photo: Hawaii Sea Spirits
Cooler temps, rich volcanic soil, and consistent rainfall make the Upcountry a treasure trove of fresh produce. Expect to spend as much time dining at markets and organic farms as at restaurants.
Farms and farmers marketsThe farmers market at Maui Nui Farm in Kula — every Thursday through Sunday — has a great selection of dinosaur kale, zucchini, bananas, mangoes, avocados, and pineapple (arrive before 9am to snag popular items like strawberries). After scoping and sampling, snack on tasty pad thai, kalua pork, and smoothies at Nui’s Garden Kitchen food truck, right onsite.
Just a few miles away, the Upcountry Farmers Market, held on Saturday mornings, is also delightfully Maui. Loads of vendors sell unique items like “goatlato” (goat milk ice cream), lilikoi butter, and savory empanadas. Fresh fish, flowers, and essential oils are other prime offerings to look out for. The same rule applies here: The early bird gets the best produce. (By the way, that’s Acro Yoga going on in the grassy area over there.)
For something hands-on and totally sustainable, make a trip to Oo Farm, set in the misting forests of Waipoli. Opt for the Seed-to-Cup Gourmet Breakfast Tour to geek out on all things coffee, or go for the Gourmet Farm & Lunch Tour, where guests forage for herbs and veggies in the meticulously kept garden. You’ll nosh on farm greens, local fruits, and a five-star meal whipped up by the resident chef while chatting with fellow travelers and watching for horned Jackson’s chameleons — they happen to love hanging out among the coffee plants. You’ll leave with new knowledge about living off the land, energized by both the meal and the amazing bi-coastal view.
About 15 minutes away is a different kind of organic operation: Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery. They’re the producers of OCEAN vodka, made from “deep ocean water” and organic sugarcane. Hop on a tour to walk through the cane fields, take in the views, and learn about the farm’s dedication to sustainability. Respect for both the environment and community runs deep here in the Upcountry.
RestaurantsIf you’ve spent the day hiking at Haleakala, Kula Lodge Restaurant is a great place to refuel. Sample everything from quiche to wood-oven pizza to macadamia-nut pesto pasta. With the view of Maui’s west side in the distance, it’s impossible not to stare out the window the whole meal. Don’t miss the art gallery and impressive garden when you’re done.
And in Makawao, stop at the T. Komoda Store & Bakery for a cream puff — an Upcountry tradition since 1916.
Where to play
Photo: Shutterstock/Maridav
Because the Valley Isle is home to many of the planet’s microclimates and the topography is extremely varied, the list of activities to keep you busy is a long one.
Haleakala National ParkLet’s start at the top. In the Upcountry section of Haleakala National Park, you’ll get to roam around a massive volcano. Your best bet is to skip the sunrise crowds — and the permit that goes along with them — and opt for a mid-morning hike instead. Hike Maui leads small groups on fun, educational treks that include lunch and snacks. They often take guests on the Halemauu Trail, a rocky path that provides access to a crater overlook, or the Sliding Sands Trail (also known as the Keoneheehee Trail), where you hike down into the colorful crater.
Stick around for sunset — on clear days, you can see four other Hawaiian islands. And be sure to dress in layers! Temps are extremely unpredictable and can dip into the 30s Fahrenheit, sometimes resulting in snow. But the most important thing to keep in mind is to stay on the trails to protect the fragile ecosystem. For 24/7 immersion, book a wilderness cabin in the crater (you’ll need to do so at least a few months in advance).
Hiking, mountain biking, and helicoptering
Photo: Blue Hawaiian Helicopers
Other notable Upcountry hikes include those in Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area, where you can stroll through a grove of redwoods, and Makawao Forest Reserve, which also includes a mountain-biking trail through the rainforest. Polipoli has a single cabin for rent as well.
For a different perspective, book a heli-ride with Blue Hawaiian Helicopters. The Maui Spectacular tour gives guests a bird’s-eye view of west Maui, Hana, and Haleakala. The added bonus: a landing at Ulupalakua Ranch, on the slopes of Haleakala.
Cultural activitiesIn Kula, Maui Bees will teach you the ins and outs of beekeeping. Their hands-on honeybee workshop lasts around two hours and explains the fascinating life cycle of the beehive and how crucial bees are to the agricultural process. You’ll don a beekeeper outfit, open a hive, and taste fresh honey. Afterward, shop for granola, honey, and fresh fruits at the market stand.
For a meaningful souvenir, sign up for a lei-making class at Haku Maui. Choose between a group workshop and private session, and know that either way you’re going home with a handmade floral creation. Pair the experience with a trip to Alii Kula Lavender Farm for a tour and chance to make a mini bouquet. A visit here means a peaceful afternoon spent among 13.5 acres of greenery — we’re talking 55,000 lavender plants comprising 25 different varieties, 30 citrus trees, sugarcane, grapevines, wisteria, and avocado trees.
Word to the wise: Bring your camera and your comfy shoes — the farm is on the slopes of Haleakala — and don’t leave without a lavender scone and a visit to the gift shop. Because you’re definitely going to want an Upcountry memento to take home with you.
The post Exploring the other Maui: Travel guide to the Upcountry appeared first on Matador Network.
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