Matador Network's Blog, page 629
June 23, 2021
The best outdoors experience to have on each Hawaiian island
The islands of Hawaii are kind of like the Kardashians. They’re all part of the same family, and sometimes you forget which is which — but each is different. Unlike the Kardashians, however, Hawaii’s eight biggest islands are defined by their natural and timeless beauty, from the volcanic landscape of the Big Island or the pristine beaches of Oahu. We’ve compiled the coolest thing to do on each of these Hawaiian islands — even the so-called “forbidden islands” — to help you plan your next trip.
The Island of Hawaii: Volcanoes National Park
Photo: Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park/Facebook
In the light of Mt. Kilauea’s eruption in 2018 and its subsequent volcanic activity, visiting a place on the Island of Hawaii (also known as the Big Island) called Volcanoes National Park may not seem like the best idea. In reality, though, the park is completely safe and one of the most unique geographical areas in all of Hawaii. It’s located just 45 minutes south of Hilo, houses two active volcanoes, and offers up 150 miles of hiking trails through volcanic craters, rainforests, and scorched deserts.
Mt. Kilauea is known as the world’s only “drive-in volcano,” and you can indeed take a driving tour of the crater rim. Starting at the park entrance, the Crater Rim Drive is a short road with plenty of places to stop and hike the caldera’s edge. The Chain of Craters Road is another popular drive, bringing you down the coast past lava rock fields.
Another way to explore the eerie lava fields is to bike through them, one of many adventures on this island. The truly adventurous can go backcountry hiking at Mauna Loa, a strenuous trek up one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Hiking over jagged, volcanic rocks to an altitude of 13,678 feet can feel like walking to Mount Doom, but experiencing Hawaii’s rugged geography up close makes it all worth it.
Maui: The Road to Hana
Photo: Chris Curtis/Shutterstock
As cliche as it sounds, Maui’s top attraction isn’t a destination — it’s a journey. The Road to Hana is a 64.4-mile highway from Kahului to Hana, and it’s one of the most scenic drives in Hawaii. It’s also a hair-raising journey, with hairpin turns and locals seemingly taking them at top speed in the opposite direction. The drive itself only takes a couple of hours, but there are enough stops along the way to warrant spending a few days driving the Road to Hana.
The hike to Twin Falls is one of the best forays into nature you’ll find along the road. These two waterfalls pour into a large swimming hole, perfect for a refreshing dip before sitting behind the wheel again. There’s also a picnic area at Waikamoi Ridge — a wooded hike with two loops for those looking to stretch their legs. The Garden of Eden Arboretum is another great way to experience the area’s natural beauty, with a 100-year-old mango tree, bamboo plants, waterfalls, and ocean views. Perhaps the most uniquely Hawaii attraction sits at the 31-mile marker. Hana Lava Tube is a cave open for public spelunking — just make sure you grab a flashlight.
As noted, the 52-mile-drive can be done in a day, even with a few stops. But, should you choose to make a proper road trip out of it, we’ve got some tips on the best places to stay along the way.
Oahu: Kailua Beach Park
Photo: Joakim Lloyd Raboff/Shutterstock
It’s time we got to the beach. With countless beach options in Hawaii, you want to pick the right one. And that’s Kailua Beach Park, on Oahu’s east coast. Known for its white sand and clear turquoise water, this beach is exactly what you think of when you envision the paradisiacal landscapes of Hawaii. And at two and a half miles long, you won’t have to worry about overcrowding or struggling to find your own space. As a bonus, it’s also right next to Lanikai Beach, which many argue is even more beautiful. At just a half-mile long, Lanikai has some of the softest white sand anywhere in Hawaii, two offshore islands, and calm water perfect for kayaking and snorkeling.
Oahu distinguishes itself by being the last seat of power for Hawaiian Royalty, which was overthrown by local agro-businesses with US support. Visit Iolani Palace in Oahu to learn more about Hawaii’s indigenous culture. Then, if you want to know more about Hawaii after the US annexed it, check out Pearl Harbor, the site of the infamous bombing that motivated the US’ entry into World War II. Pearl Harbor is home to over 160 ships and several historical sites commemorating 1941, including the USS Arizona Memorial.
Kauai: Waimea Canyon
Photo: Matthew Connolly/Shutterstock
This 3,600-foot deep canyon slicing through Kauai is often called the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” Unlike most hyperbolic monikers, it actually lives up to its name. The canyon is 14 miles long and one mile wide, offering views of the crags, deep valley gorges, and crested buttes. Take Waimea Canyon Drive to Waimea Canyon Overlook for the most stunning views of Kauai’s rugged interior. If it looks like it will be foggy by the overlook, stop on the way up Highway 550, and you’re sure to get a fog-free first look at the canyon. That’s one of many stellar Kauai views most folks don’t know.
The canyon’s several hiking trails could easily keep you occupied for several days. The Canyon Trail brings you past Waipo’o Falls — an 800-foot waterfall and super picnic spot — before reaching the Kumuweka Lookout. The more rigorous Kukai Trail requires hikers to navigate rougher terrain through the forest, leading to the bottom of the Waimea River.
After you’ve driven to Waimea Canyon, keep going north on Highway 550 until you almost reach the end of the road. There, you’ll arrive at the Pu’u O Kila Lookout, one of the few ways to admire the Na Pali Cliffs without going out in a boat or helicopter. Then you can get yourself to one of Kauai’s almost-secret beaches.
Molokai: Papohaku Beach
Photo: norinori303/Shutterstock
At just 38 miles long and 10 miles wide, Molokai is Hawaii’s fifth-largest island and is often forgotten by tourists. That’s good news for those who do travel there, as you’ll have its beauty all to yourself. Molokai has the highest sea cliffs and the longest continuous fringing reef globally, and perhaps most importantly, some of the most pristine, quiet beaches in Hawaii.
Although Papohaku Beach is one of Hawaii’s most extensive sand beaches — and the longest in the state — it’s also surprisingly crowd-free. Also known as “Three Mile Beach,” Papohaku is one of just two beaches on Molokai that allows camping, and you’ll find campsites, outdoor showers, and restroom facilities. The beach has clear views of Oahu over the Kaiwi Channel and is bordered by a lush forest, offering a unique beach-going experience. A crazy historical sidenote is that the beach was the location of military exercises during World War II, and pieces of abandoned vehicles can still be found buried under the sand.
Lanai: The Cathedrals
Photo: Erin Donalson/Shutterstock
Don’t worry if you’re not into religious architecture — the cathedrals of Lanai aren’t actually churches. They’re underwater pinnacle formations created by lava tubes and illuminated by rays of sunlight. Their crevices, aglow with turquoise blue waters, make them look like stained glass windows. Among the variety of fish that call the formations home, the most abundant are the orange cave-dwelling Menpachi, bright moorish idols, yellow tans, and even reef sharks and turtles. Unsurprisingly, the Cathedrals have made the area incredibly attractive for divers, and several diving tours are available for visitors.
Kahoolawe: Volunteer on Kahoolawe
Photo: Moore Pictures/Shutterstock
Kahoolawe is known as one of Hawaii’s two “Forbidden Islands,” but the island is actually very inviting. You just have to understand how to visit. Due to its small size of only 44.6 square miles, the island only welcomes visitors looking for a less relaxing vacation. In 1993, Hawaii established the Kahoolawe Island Reserve Commission (KIRC) to preserve the island for future generations. The KIRC relies on volunteers for this preservation and restoration, offering weekly work trips to Kahoolawe. These work trips are pretty much the only way tourists can visit the island, but signing up is well worth it.
Each week, KIRC brings 20 to 25 volunteers to the island after they complete an orientation consisting of briefings on safety, environmental hazards, and the island’s cultural background. Volunteers will stay in KIRC accommodations on the southern end of Kahoolawe, including sleeping quarters, a kitchen, dining area, and other amenities. Volunteer work usually includes planting native flora, removing invasive weeds, and other tasks vital to restoring the island’s ecosystem. It’s not all hard labor, though. Volunteers also learn the history of the island and take part in a variety of Hawaiian cultural traditions.
You can apply for volunteer trips online, though be advised that there’s often a waitlist.
Niihau — Hunt Polynesian boars
Photo: Studio Kealaul/Shutterstock
Niihau is the second of Hawaii’s “Forbidden Islands,” and it’s even more difficult to visit than Kahoolawe. At 70 square miles, this privately owned island has just 70 permanent residents, no paved roads, and no indoor plumbing. Most residents travel by foot or bicycle. It earned its “Forbidden Island” nickname in 1952 when the island was shut off to visitors during the polio epidemic. The closure has long been lifted, but the name stuck.
Niihau is difficult to access, but not impossible. There are no ferries or flights to Niihau. You can only get to the island via helicopter tour from Kauai or by reserving a spot on a hunting safari. Helicopter tours can be reserved by emailing the tourism agency and choosing the package appropriate for you, while the hunting safari requires you to undergo Hawaii’s hunter education course first. Then, just email the tourism agency to arrange the safari. You’ll be hunting sheep, oryx, eland, and Polynesian boar, at a full-day cost of around $1,950. The only other way to visit the island is with a personal invitation from a resident of Niihau or a member of the Robinson family — the family that manages and administers the island. 
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Watch Yo-Yo Ma give a surprise free performance to visitors at this national park
Would you notice if you casually walked by one of the greatest cellists of all time? Well, you would if they were playing in the middle of a national park. Yo-Yo Ma gave two impromptu performances out in the open at Acadia National Park in Maine on June 17. The artist was hiding in plain sight with a baseball cap on during both performances — one at Jordan Pond House and the other at Otter Point.
Following the surprise at the national park, the cellist performed a sunrise concert at Schoodic Point in honor of secretary of the interior Deb Haaland, the first Indigenous cabinet secretary. At the sunrise concert, Yo-Yo Ma played alongside Wabanaki elders and other musicians before Haaland’s talk with the Wabanaki people about the cabinet’s support for public lands.
“What an honor to join Wabanaki elders, musicians and teachers in their tradition of welcoming the sunrise for the rest of the North American continent. Together with @acadiannps, @SecDebHaaland and other Maine cultural leaders, we spoke about how we can follow the wisdom of culture and nature to bring us hope as we emerge from the pandemic and build a future for humanity’s coming generations,” Yo-Yo Ma tweeted.
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This new railway company plans to run fancy sleeper trains throughout Europe
Europe is already known for having excellent train transportation, but it’s only going to get better. As people look for ways to ditch low-budget flights and travel more sustainably, French startup Midnight Trains plans to create a network of overnight sleeper trains from Paris to other a dozen European cities, including Madrid, Barcelona Porto, Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome, Brussels, Berlin, Hamburg, Copenhagen, and Edinburgh, according to Time Out.
Photo: Midnighttrains/Facebook
The goal is a middle ground between the hyper-luxury of the now-liquidated Orient Express and the basic-class SNCF sleeper trains, by offering hotel-style rooms for comfort and privacy, a restaurant, and bar. Guests will also be able to receive concierge services via an app.
Photo: Midnighttrains/Facebook
“I noted that people around me don’t want to get on a plane because of concerns about carbon emissions, but also my girlfriend is afraid of flying and decided she was never getting on a plane. I realised the only way travel was going to be possible was by train,” Midnight Trains co-founder Adrien Aumont told The Guardian.
Guests can expect prices close to a low-budget flight with some extra fees. The anticipated start of service is in 2024. Other sleeper trains are already in the works in other popular destinations in Europe.
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This French town will host a spectacular light show every summer weekend
Bourg-en-Bresse is not on any France first-timer’s radar. It’s not close to Paris, or on the Riviera. It’s not home to anything or anyone particularly well-known on the international scene. Yet it’s a place worth planning a visit around — especially this summer.
From July 8 to September 4, Bourg-en-Bresse is hosting the coolest light show in the country: Couleurs d’Amour (Colors of Love).
The mesmerizing event is now in its fifth year and has been a growing success with every iteration. In 2019, the town of 40,000 inhabitants received 80,000 visitors for the event. Not bad for a place that’s overshadowed by two tourism hubs just 90 minutes away: Lyon (France’s third-largest city known as the “stomach of France”) and Geneva, Switzerland.
The themes for this year’s Couleurs d’Amour are liberty, vitality, and optimism — a choice that’s meant to lift spirits after the strict COVID-19 lockdown restrictions that France implemented in 2020 and 2021.
Couleurs d’Amour 2020 (Photo: Marine Bontemps)
The light show will take place on the facades of three of the main landmarks of Bourg-en-Bresse: City Hall, the local theater, and the sumptuous Royal Monastery of Brou. Each is walking distance from the other, making it easy to see all of them in one night. City Hall is a minute away on foot from the theater in the city center, and the monastery is about a 15-minute walk (0.6 miles).
Renderings of Couleurs d’Amour 2021 (Photo: B.Digital Évents – Abeille Brissaud)
The event is free and takes place every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The light show starts at the Royal Monastery at 10:00 PM and lasts 12 minutes. The projections on City Hall and the theater start at 10:15 PM and last 10 minutes. Each spectacle is repeated six times throughout the night.
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These outdoorsy US destinations make for the perfect remote-work getaways
We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
Last year saw the summer of road trips, but 2021 is witnessing the summer of the workation. Americans are heading out for extended stays in record numbers. According to Airbnb CEO Brian Chesky, 24 percent of all stays booked this year are for 28 days or longer. Remote workers are heading to places that are big on work-life balance and light on traffic and crowds.
Among the top-searched areas are Destin, Florida; Angel Fire, New Mexico; and West Yellowstone, Montana — which is known for its access not only to Yellowstone National Park but also the pristine waters of Hebgen Lake. If you’re looking to get away for a remote work staycation this summer, these three trending destinations offer outdoor adventure, plenty of dining and cafes, and, via Airbnb, all the comforts of home. It’s time for a summer remote work staycation heavy on the adventure.
Destin, Florida
Photo: Andriy Blokhin/Shutterstock
Nowhere in the mainland United States makes you feel like you’re on a tropical island quite like Destin. The city is a peninsula located between the Gulf of Mexico and Choctawhatchee Bay and is lined with dunes, boardwalks, and mellow swimming spots. While you could stay in a high-end beach resort and dine at tourist-friendly chains like Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. while doing your remote work, your dollars go much further at local cafes and your workspace remains far more private in an Airbnb.
When you’re not working, the first thing to check out is the beach, of course. The Gulf of Mexico doesn’t produce Pacific-sized surf breaks, but the waves at Crystal Beach are ideal for beginners and intermediate surfers. Destin Beach is a great chill-out post and, along with the Destin Harbor Boardwalk, is the town’s place to “see and be seen.” Also, check out Henderson Beach State Park, the only true wildlife habitat in Destin and a unique place to hike across sandy dunes. Post up at Cafe Destin or Capriccio Cafe to work, eat at The Back Porch and the variety of seafood spots lining Destin Harbor, and, if you’re up late, sticking it out until last call at Lucky’s Rotten Apple generally provides some sloppy banter worth a late-night text to an old college buddy.
Best Airbnbs in Destin, FloridaCondo with private beach, free golf
Photo: Airbnb
This condo in a private community is perfect for secluding yourself during work hours, and having walkable access to amenities after you shut the laptop. The community has access to five pools, three hot tubs, a free nine-hole, par-three golf course, and a private beach. The host guarantees strong Wi-Fi and the apartment itself has enough space to lounge, cook, and experiment with different nap locations to optimize the sounds of the coast and the ocean breeze.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $161 per night
Photo: Airbnb
This bright unit is making studio apartments fashionable again. It’s a quick stroll to the beach, and a short bike ride leads to a variety of cafes and dining. For those seeking a cozy and comfy place for your remote work vacation, this Destin apartment delivers fast Wi-Fi and lounge space and is just removed from the bustle of Highway 98, meaning it’s nice and quiet but still close to everything you need.
Four guests, studio
Price: $151 per night
Photo: Angel Fire Bike Park/Facebook
Angel Fire is the understated champion of northern New Mexico’s mountain destinations. Here you can experience southwest mountain culture at its finest with plenty of hiking and biking trails, lake and river access, and cantinas to swap trail stories after your adventure. It’s also just a short drive to Taos and 90 minutes further to the arts and culinary scenes of Sante Fe, adding some cultural highlights to your summer working vacation.
Angel Fire Resort operates a mountain bike park, zip line, and hiking trails from mid-May through October. Other popular trails in the area are open year-round when conditions permit, including the Oeste Vista Trail, accessible from the heart of the Angel Fire village. Golf is also available at the resort village. But an increasing draw to Angel Fire is the South Boundary Trail, New Mexico’s only “Epic Trail,” as certified by the International Mountain Biking Association. It runs 22 miles between Angel Fire and Taos; you can schedule a shuttle to pick you up on the other end. Riders and hikers of all abilities enjoy the Greenbelt Trails, a connected system of loops and out-and-backs that run adjacent to the village.
Grab a cuppa and tuck into your laptop at Just Joe Coffee and The Bump coffee, and conclude the day with apres at Enchanted Circle Brewing Company. The Peruvian-inspired Makuna Grill is the town’s best option for date night.
Best Airbnbs in Angel FireCondo at mountain’s base with fast Wi-Fi, fireplace, easy trail access
Photo: Airbnb
Most of Angel Fire’s Airbnb listings are clustered around the base area, touting “ski-in, ski-out” capabilities, which in summer means easy access to the bike park, hiking, and solitude. This Angel Fire Airbnb makes the list for its guaranteed-good Wi-Fi, and for the fact that there’s nothing more relaxing than starting a fire after a day of exploring the mountains.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $116 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Another purveyor of reliable Wi-Fi is this condo, which also has mountain views and an electric fireplace. From here, the resort is walkable (or bikeable), and a pedal down to the heart of town puts you among dining, cafes, and Angel Fire’s limited shopping amenities. The space is comfortable for four guests, with one private bedroom.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $141 per night
Photo: YegoroV/Shutterstock
Yellowstone National Park is the darling of the American summer road trip, and West Yellowstone is the best access point for those wishing to avoid the crowds, and long drive, coming from Jackson. The town itself is charming, with unparalleled outdoor access to everything from hiking to SUPing beyond park boundaries and elk, moose, bison, and geysers (among everything else) within the park.
Of course, the primary reason to stay in West Yellowstone is to have a base to work and sleep, while spending the rest of your time savoring the stunning wilderness. From that perspective, there’s so much to see and do that planning a remote work staycation in this tiny little town is overwhelming. Book a stay near what you like to do outdoors. Hikers and cyclists with their own vehicle should book an Airbnb in town and plan to spend non-work hours exploring the park, as well as Targhee Creek and Buttermilk west of town. A weekend camping excursion up to Hebgen Lake puts you near several more trailheads to explore that are too for a day trip.
Boaters, anglers, and SUPers should plan to spend time at Henry’s Lake State Park (see Airbnb listing below), as well as at Hebgen Lake. Inside the park, Yellowstone Lake is a trout anglers’ dream destination. The Book Peddler & Coffee Cafe is a must-do for java and a laptop session, or just to browse the bookshelves over a pastry. And a surprising but true piece of trivia about West Yellowstone — this town can cook (and eat). Try the burgers at the Slippery Otter Pub and western cuisine at the Outpost Restaurant.
Best Airbnbs in West YellowstoneTwo-bedroom apartment with hot tub and pool access, one block from park
Photo: Airbnb
The thing about mountain rentals is that they’re often more rustic than chic, and while that’s great for an urban family seeking a slice of ruggedness for a few days, it’s not so great when you’re there for a while and need to work — and live — much as you do at home. This apartment solves that issue without sacrificing any of the ease of access you’d expect from a mountain town Airbnb. The Wi-Fi is fast, the amenities include a pool and hot tub, a game room, and bikeable access to the park — and when it’s time to focus, sleep, or relax, the apartment is well-trimmed and modern.
Note — this apartment complex has multiple units available via Airbnb. See full listings here.
Six guests, two bedrooms
Price: $220 per night
Photo: Airbnb
This townhome is the best large-group Airbnb in West Yellowstone. It sleeps eight, has good Wi-Fi, and includes plenty of space for the gear that a group needs to be both productive and adventurous. This is the spot for on-water activities, though it’s only 15 minutes from Yellowstone and the amenities of downtown West Yellowstone. A-frames are the epitome of the mountain lifestyle — and you’ll be living it here, with the bonus that this property actually has availability throughout the summer.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $440 per night
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Sun Moon Lake is Taiwan’s most scenic and delicious destination
According to a legend of the Thao people, one of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples still living in the country today, their ancestors followed a white deer to a misty alpine lake in the central mountains while hunting. The lake was full of shrimp and fish, and the Thao people decided to settle there. Today, they still call what is now known as Sun Moon Lake their home.
Located in Taiwan’s Yuchi Township, Nantou County, Sun Moon Lake is the largest lake in Taiwan. The name of the lake comes from how it’s divided by Lalu Island at its center: one side resembles a crescent moon, while the other looks like a sun. Best known today as a stunning recreational area, it’s home to attractions such as Shuishe Great Mountain, Shuanglong Waterfall, Mingtan Reservoir, and Shuili River. Perhaps one of its most treasured attractions is the Shuishang Bikeway, a 1,300-foot-long path situated directly on the water that allows visitors to experience the splendor of the lake up close.
From late January to mid-March, Sun Moon Lake hosts the largest cherry blossom festival in Taiwan, showcasing over 5,000 cherry blossom trees. In April through May, the air around the lake is filled with glittering fireflies, and later in the year, visitors can join activities like a swimming carnival, fireworks, and bike races. Shuttles and tour buses are available to help tourists get around the lake.
Photo: kitzcorner/Shutterstock
One of the easiest ways to get around the lake is by a ferry, which drops visitors off at popular destinations like Shuishe, Xuanguang Temple, and Ita Thao (also known as Barawbaw in the Thao language). Barawbaw, according to the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, “is the last residence of the Thao people,” and it’s also where most food stalls and restaurants can be found. You’ll likely also spot souvenir shops selling owl figurines in many shapes; the owl is a guardian deity considered lucky in Taiwan.
All around Sun Moon Lake, you’ll find pit stops to rest your feet and feed your appetite — which will no doubt surge after a long day of adventuring outside. The area has noodle restaurants, coffee and ice cream shops, traditional food markets, and tea houses. Visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the meals over at the lake, and you’ll surely want to try every morsel you spot. When it comes to planning your itinerary for the day, here are six snacks you should be sure to sample at Sun Moon Lake.
1. Grandma’s (Ah Ma) tea eggs
Photo: Kritsaroot Udkwae/Shutterstock
Black tea eggs can be found near Xuanguang Temple, which is one stop along the ferry route. These eggs are boiled twice. Right before the second boil, they’re cracked and then dropped in a mixture of local specialties like tea, shiitake mushroom, and spices. This process results in a marbled look to the egg. According to WelcomeTW.com, the Grandma (or Ah Ma) who runs the tea egg stand at Sun Moon Lake, has been making these tea eggs since 1949. The eggs take more than six hours to make, and about 6,000 are sold daily at Sun Moon Lake.
2. Gua bao
Photo: Julio Cesar Gomez/Shutterstock
Wild mountain boar is another popular dish around Sun Moon Lake. It often appears smoked, in sausage and stir fries, and in gua bao. Gua bao is similar to an open-face pork bun. It’s made with a steamed sweet bread sometimes known as a lotus bun that’s stuffed with meat and vegetables. At Sun Moon Lake, one signature gua bao variety is made with pumpkin, giving the lotus bun an orange hue.
3. Black teaOne of the beverages you’re likely to encounter over and over at Sun Moon Lake is black tea. Black tea became popular in Taiwan during the Japanese occupation of the island from 1895 to 1945. Due to the climate and elevation around Sun Moon lake, a version of Assam tea leaves thrive, and the black tea grown here helps put Taiwan on the list of the major tea regions in Asia to know. The signature honey and wintergreen flavors have helped it retain a loyal fanbase.
The most popular of these black teas are often referred to as red or ruby teas and are often labeled numerically. Look out for Hong Yu or #18 and Hong Yun or #21 at tea shops. You can try them as black tea, milk tea, or in soft-serve ice cream either on its own or swirled with chocolate. Tickets to the ferry sometimes include coupons for black tea egg rolls which are like rolled wafer cookies.
4. Cabbage buns
Photo: PhaiApirom/Shutterstock
For vegetarian options that are satisfying and filling, try cabbage buns — a deep-fried, baseball-sized treat. These buns are stuffed with a mixture of cabbage, local mushrooms, and glass noodles wrapped in a dumpling skin and deep fried. For the buns that contain mushrooms, look for xiānggū bāo, while those without mushrooms will appear as gāolí cài bāo on the menu. A sweet chili sauce is usually available for dipping.
5. Grass carp (president fish)
Photo: EagleAngle Eyes/Shutterstock
Also known as aruzay or president fish because it was a favorite of China’s former president, President Chiang Kai-shek, grass carp is one type of freshwater fish found in Sun Moon Lake. More importantly, it’s a staple food in the indigenous Thao cuisine. The president fish is served fried or steamed whole with green onions, ginger, and coriander.
6. MochiMochi, like black tea, is another holdover from the era of Japanese occupation of Taiwan. It’s still popular today and is made with sweet glutinous rice flour. The Taiwanese people have adapted mochi to suit their own tastes with a type of the dessert called baiman. Baiman is also considered a speciality of the Thao people, and it’s usually only eaten during religious ceremonies like the traditional new year ancestor worship ceremony. There are other flavors of mochi available around Ita Thao Village.
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This haunted 19th-century brothel is our favorite hotel in Albuquerque
When planning a cross-country road trip with my mother from the Bay Area back to the East Coast, I sought out eccentric accommodations with a strong sense of place at every pit stop — from a teepee in the Nevada desert to a train caboose in Oklahoma. My search for a spot to stay in New Mexico required the least amount of research. In fact, it was the first place I booked. A former 19th-century brothel and saloon in Albuquerque? That also bills itself as a bed and brew? Instant done deal.
The illustrious history and refreshments at The Painted Lady Bed & Brew were enough to pique my interest. For my mother, there was a different draw. She’s known to overload the DVR with marathons of The Dead Files, and she relished the potential to stay somewhere haunted. Nowhere on the website did the property claim to host any ghosts, but with such a macabre past, she insisted there had to be a spirit or two floating around.
The Painted Lady is situated in a quiet industrial neighborhood that’s a short walk from the adobe buildings of Old Town. There’s only a handful of apartment-style suites, all with a modern Southwestern aesthetic, which adds to a sense of neighborhood intimacy. Rooms exit directly to a covered porch adorned with hanging ristras of hatch chilies, desert flora, and Adirondack chairs. Red string lights criss-cross above the walkway, and games like giant Jenga and cornhole dot the patio, which also has a swing set and a cushioned fire pit. The technicolor Painted Lady mural overlooks the giant showpiece of the hotel: a vintage, bright-red Albuquerque trolley car. The whole vibe feels like the backyard of someone’s exceedingly cool home — because it is.
Photo: Laura Reilly
During our stay, live-in owner Jesse Herron met us with a triple tier platter of canned craft beer and a basket of snacks, and he flipped on the red lights as we all pulled up stools. Herron, also the longtime co-owner of an Albuquerque tour company, doesn’t just serve the beer. He’s also the one decorating the suites, taking reservations, and planning events like magic shows on the patio. Over seven years in the making, the Painted Lady is Herron’s passion project.
Armed with proper questions to ask Herron about Albuquerque’s cultural revival and the challenges of the boutique hospitality industry, my mom beats me to the punch with the question I feared she’d interject with: “Have you seen any ghosts?”
Before I can pivot back to business, Herron enthusiastically responds, “Oh yeah,” and launches into tales of the ghosts of Old Town’s past. I kick back with an ale and listen to the kindred souls rhapsodize about the supernatural.
Photo: Laura Reilly
The original saloon was built in 1881 and quickly gained a sordid reputation. Before you conjure up a glamorized image of the Old West with a ragtime piano playing in the background, know that this was not a high-end parlor. This was a “crib” brothel, an in-and-out sort of place across the sawmill, where women saw upward of 50 customers a day and violence made newspaper headlines. Thus, its ghosts do not exactly have Casper’s disposition.
“The building was on the market for two years and it was basically abandoned, it was terrible,” Herron said. “So I was standing out on the street and this guy comes up and asks if I’m thinking about buying this property, and I say ‘yeah.’ He says, ‘Do you know the history?’ And I say ‘Well I know a little bit…’ and he says, ‘You don’t know shit.’”
The man claimed to be related to the family that owned the brothel. He said the owners would never go into the room Herron was planning to turn into the master suite (it’s now his office), because it was “haunted as hell” by the victim of a gory axe murder. As the months went by, Herron began to feel the negative presence of the spirits of two females and one aggressive male who he believed was tormenting his dog. Multiple psychics, one Buddhist priestess, a German seance, and a smoking demon trap later, Herron was finally able to exorcise the malevolent male (a 19th-century top hat-clad man named Bill, so says a psychic). With Bill gone, more friendly spirits were left behind to cohabitate with the Painted Lady guests.
“My mom yells at me ‘Don’t tell people that story!’” Herron said as we sat on the stools. My mom, on the other hand, could not be more thrilled.
Photo: Laura Reilly
If you remain supernaturally skeptic, as I tend to be, the Painted Lady has a much more delectable draw: Hoppy Hour. Every evening, guests can saunter to the patio for some complimentary local craft brews at 5:05 PM (the ABQ area code), not-so-sharp. (“I’m always late also, so 5 o’clock? I can’t get here,” Herron jests. “I gotta walk all the way down the sidewalk. But 5:05? I’m good to go.”)
Herron’s decision to serve cans of beer to guests is partly because of his love for the craft, partly because breakfast was never a viable option. But his lack of culinary prowess doesn’t affect his knack for hospitality. Over a dozen different cans are up for grabs, all handpicked by Herron. I opted for the Peach Dynamite kettle sour from Steel Bender Brewyard followed by a red ale from Marble Brewery. Herron also uses the time to connect with guests and offer his neighborhood recommendations, including what other nearby breweries to hit to complete a beer-themed trip to Albuquerque.
Photo: Laura Reilly
“When I first moved here, there was one brewery within walking distance, and now within a one-mile radius of the property there are about seven breweries and two distilleries,” Herron says. “So it’s turned into this little brewery district. You can stay here, have beer here at Hoppy Hour, and then you can go walk through the neighborhood.”
Whether you go on a brewery crawl, spend the day exploring the markets of Old Town, or venture higher into the Sandia Mountains, your porch chair will be waiting for you to unwind in. And if you think you feel a cool breeze or a tap on the shoulder, maybe leave another can cracked open — just in case.
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Amtrak’s latest sale offers tickets as low as $23
For its “Sizzling Summer Sale,” Amtrak is now offering train tickets for as low as $23. With this latest promotion, train travelers can now save up to 35 percent on Coach and Acela business-class tickets on most trains around the country.
While the sale is enticing, you don’t have much time left to get your cheap train ticket. The sale started on June 22 and ends on June 24 for travel between July 6 and Sept 30, 2021.
“The Sizzling Summer Sale allows our customers to travel across the country and experience the summer in a variety of ways, all while spending less on train tickets,” said Roger Harris, Amtrak’s executive vice president and chief marketing and revenue officer. “Whether it’s to see friends and family, experience a summer musical festival or baseball game, explore a new city or old favorite, have an outdoor biking or hiking adventure or relax at a beach, Amtrak can help our customers with a safe and relaxing way to travel.”
Here’s the complete list of routes included in the Sizzling Summer Sale:
New York, NY — Washington, DC: Coach $45/Acela $90New York, NY — Boston, MA: Coach $45/Acela $72Washington, DC — Philadelphia, PA: Coach $24 /Acela $64New York, NY — Philadelphia, PA: Coach: $24 /Acela $57New York, NY — Miami, FL: Coach $105Los Angeles, CA — Seattle, WA: Coach $82Chicago, IL — Denver, CO: Coach $81Lorton, VA — Sanford, FL : Coach $75Washington, DC — Chicago, IL: Coach $68Seattle, WA — Portland, OR: Coach $23When traveling with Amtrak, guests must adhere to Amtrak’s safety protocols by wearing face coverings on board at all times. Amtrak is no longer limiting capacity, but the capacity percentage will be displayed during the booking process. Amtrak is also waiving all change fees for reservations made by Sept. 6, 2021.
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June 22, 2021
8 dreamy experiences in French Polynesia, from paddling a va’a to diving with eagle rays
French Polynesia, also known as the islands of Tahiti, is just a speck in the ocean on a world map. The 118 islands and atolls that make up the region are remote from the rest of the world — it’s a seven-hour flight from Los Angeles. The location is perhaps why, historically, Tahitians were some of the world’s best navigators. They sailed between Tahitian islands and nearby neighbors as early as 200 BC in narrow outrigger canoes called va’a.
In recent years, tourism has brought people from around the world to these paradisiacal islands. French Polynesia actively leans into that tourism boom by leveraging its culture and traditions to appeal to global travelers anxious to trade in their laptops and team building sessions for lagoons and tiki statues.
If you’re thinking about visiting these idyllic South Pacific islands, here are eight experiences not to miss.
1. Try poisson cru
Photo: Suzie Dundas
The ubiquitous poisson cru isn’t a complicated dish — raw fish, fermented coconut milk, lime, onion, and copious amounts of salt and pepper — but the combination serves many purposes: It’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner; it’s a midday snack; it’s a hangover cure. It’s also delicious and easy to find across all islands in French Polynesia. The best way to eat it is when the fish is as fresh as possible. Fortunately, fresh fish is easy to come by in a country of 118 islands.
Most restaurants will have poisson cru on the menu, though it’s especially good at local mom-and-pop restaurants where the fisher and the chef are the same person. Poisson cru is one of the country’s first dishes, though it’s likely not quite the same as when Tahitians made it hundreds of years ago with fafaru (fish left to ferment in seawater in the sun for a few days) and unflavored coconut milk. Poisson cru is now made with spices, and the exact recipe varies depending on whether you’re at a luxury or budget restaurant. It’s sometimes served with rice but can be a stand-alone dish — perhaps paired with a local Hinano beer.
2. See the island that inspired Paul Gauguin
Photo: Everett Collection/Shutterstock
As you may have guessed from the name, French Polynesia is a French territory, and it’s long attracted French people searching for something a little less crowded than the streets of Paris. One of the country’s most famous expats is the post-impressionism, early fauvist artist Paul Gaugin, who traveled to Tahiti in 1891. Gaugin eventually settled on the remote Marquesan island of Hiva Oa. He left behind a wife, children, and a lackluster reputation as a failing and underselling artist.
Gauguin didn’t endear himself to the local missionaries or the church leadership, which primarily controlled the island then, but he did immerse himself in the culture. Many of his most famous works, such as “Where Do We Come From? What Are We? Where Are We Going?” and “Fatata te Miti (By the Sea),” were inspired by and painted in Tahiti.
Gauguin worked primarily in his studio home on Hiva Oa, using plant-based red and orange pigments from Marquesan plants like the false sandalwood tree and annatto plant. The fact that he had to sometimes rely on sourcing color from plants partially explains his (at the time) unconventional color choices.
Paul Gauguin’s tomb lies in the ocean-view graveyard on Hiva Oa. However, it’s just a monument — his actual body was buried without fanfare somewhere away from town under the church’s orders. Church leaders looked down on the way Gauguin encouraged nudity, alcohol consumption, and general anti-religious sentiment on the grounds of his home in Atuona. You can also tour his home, which sits next to a large Paul Gauguin museum displaying painted reproductions of his work (some with more artistic skill than others.)
While Gauguin’s legacy on the islands is complicated — he fathered a few children and likely had questionable relationships with several Marquesan women — Gauguin’s works were some of the earliest representations that Western audiences saw of Tahiti. Famous singer Jacques Brel — who died in 1978 — is also buried very near Gauguin.
3. Explore the wild side of Moorea
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Moorea is to Tahiti what Palm Springs is to Los Angeles — an easily accessible weekend escape, made even easier by catching a ride on the quick 30-minute Aramiti ferry running several times a day from Papeete to Moorea. As such, Moorea has a popular tourist area, where guests will find a few luxury hotels, dive shops, and sites like ancient maraes (sacred sites) and the Manutea Tahiti Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery (which makes a pineapple wine).
But to experience Moorea as it was before those amenities developed, book a tour south with Yvette of Moorea VIP tours. She’s lived on the island for years, speaks multiple languages, and will pick you up in her covered open-air truck.
Yvette has the scoop on all things Moorea. She can talk endlessly about everything from life on the island, its geological history, what plants you can use to tell the time (hibiscus, tiare ‘aute), and which plants act as a natural bug repellent (tamanu nut oil.) She’ll guide you through as-of-yet unexcavated archaeological sites to hidden waterfalls or walk with you through a coconut farm to learn about copra, the island’s main export. Tours start at around $70.
4. Go scuba diving with big and majestic marine wildlife
Photo: TOPDIVE French Polynesia/Facebook
If you’ve never been scuba diving, there’s no better place to try it than French Polynesia. It’s famous for its clear blue water, warm ocean temperatures, and migration seasons, where you can dive with everything from hammerhead sharks to enormous eagle rays.
The ocean is inextricably tied to Polynesia, both literally and figuratively — the nation’s origin story says that the god Maui used a massive fish hook to pull the various islands from the sea. Turtles are a sign of royalty and strength because of their hard shells, and deep-sea eels are a harbinger of bad luck in Polynesian traditions — sometimes literally, as they surface hours before tsunamis make landfall. Diving into the underwater world is as essential as diving into the experiences on land to truly get to know French Polynesia.
There are plenty of dive shops in the country, but Top Dive is one of the best as it operates in six locations across French Polynesia. That’s ideal for travelers visiting several islands since you can book multi-island dive packages rather than having to work with a new shop on every island.
And don’t worry if you’re not keen to dive with hammerheads (though French Polynesia has never had a fatal shark attack on a scuba diver). Many dive sites inside the country’s lagoons are well-protected reefs that don’t attract any creatures bigger than the occasional green sea turtle.
5. Paddle a traditional canoe
Photo: Moana Explorer/Facebook
Seafarers from Asia discovered the islands of French Polynesia over 3,000 years ago and first settled in the Marquesas Islands. From there, expert navigators took to the seas in double-hulled canoes. Using the stars, bird patterns, and a little bit of luck, they discovered different islands and landmasses, reaching destinations as far as Easter Island and New Zealand.
Though it’s hard to believe, travel was in tiny canoes with no more than a wooden panel and a few strong men to propel the boats. Today, paddling is still a hugely important part of Tahiti’s culture. Children learn to paddle in school, there are sailing clubs on every island, and you’ll see dozens of locals rowing around the lagoons in the Tuamotu and Society Island chains.
If you want to get firsthand experience of what traveling the seas in a traditional canoe is like, hitch a ride with Moana Explorer on the big island of Tahiti. You’ll be picked up in a double-hulled canoe with room for about four guests and paddle along the Tahitian shoreline, stopping for a few swim and snorkel spots along the way. Guests are encouraged to lower themselves into the narrow canoes and paddle with the guide, though raised netting provides an over-the-water place to relax once your arms inevitably get tired.
6. Learn all about the art of Tapa
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Tapa has existed nearly as long as Tahiti has been inhabited. It’s a material made from plant fibers sourced from breadfruit trees (dark brown tapa), banyan trees (reddish-brown tapa), or mulberry (white tapa, which takes the longest to produce.) Once treated, tapas cloth is used for various purposes, from decoration to clothing to household items. In the last century, it’s become more of a heritage product, but it was an essential craft for the Polynesian culture for centuries.
Making tapa is a complicated and time-intensive process. Tapa makers will first use a machete to strip the outer bark from a branch, then gently cut the inner bark to peel off a layer. Then, using a heavy piece of ironwood, artisans beat the tapa for hours, slowly softening and stretching the material until they end up with a piece nearly four times as large as the original bark. It then has to be dried precisely the right way to preserve the fibers. The process is labor-intensive, so in general, the more tapa a warrior wore, the richer and more powerful he was.
In the 1800s, missionaries banned many forms of art, which included tatau (tattoos). Artisans began painting their family tattoo patterns onto tapa cloth and hiding them from missionaries to preserve the images and tradition. Today, free expression and religion are welcome in French Polynesia, but painting cultural symbols on tapa is still a tradition. You’ll find tapa for sale at most artisan centers. The island of Fatu Hiva is particularly known for its tapa-making displays and beautiful pieces.
7. Take a cargo ship to the Marquesas Islands
Photo: Suzie Dundas
As a whole, Tahiti’s culture is well-preserved — but in the Marquesas, the most remote and least populated archipelago in the country, the culture all but disappeared in the 1860s. Due to violent encounters with Europeans, warfare among islanders, and new diseases — plus the tendency of French and English missionaries to ban Marquesas music, religion, and art deemed “anti-Christian.” It’s no surprise that by the 1940s, much of the island’s traditions were lost. Fortunately, older locals remembered bits and pieces of the history, and today, the islands take great pride in everything from tatau and tapa to bone carving and traditional dance. The Marqueses were the first inhabited islands in Tahiti, and recently uncovered archaeological sites reveal much about the ancient culture.
Tourism isn’t a huge draw in the Marquesas — yet. So if you’re going to go there, your options are limited. You could fly to some of the islands, but if you have the time, consider hitching a ride on the Aranui 5, a half-supply-half-cruise ship that travels from Tahiti to the islands on regular supply runs. While the crew unloads the boat, guests get to visit sites like Puamau (home of the country’s largest tikis) and the Kamuihei archaeological site, where you may be lucky enough to catch a traditional pig dance. Fares for luxurious rooms aren’t cheap, but dorm rooms start at $3,400 for the entire 13 day trip, including all activities and food. Nearly all the crew are Tahitian, and while meals on board are European and American cuisine, lunches on the islands are at tiny neighborhood restaurants.
8. Stay in a guesthouse
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Tahiti has a reputation for being the island where honeymooners spend big bucks to stay in overwater bungalows — but visiting doesn’t have to be expensive. Across every island are pensions (guesthouses) which range in price and offerings. Some are no more than local open-air hostels, while others are roomier properties with restaurants, pools, and beachfront bungalows. If you’re on Moorea, try the bungalows at the beachfront Green Lodge, or opt for Fare Pea Iti if you’re visiting Taha’a (famous for its vanilla). Rooms at Pensions can be as low as $50 a night. In Tahiti, booking through Facebook is very common, so don’t be alarmed if you find a pension without a website — just send the owners a message on Facebook if you’re thinking about booking.
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This lavish Antoni Gaudí-decorated Barcelona home is available on Airbnb for €1
Spain’s most famed architect, Antoni Gaudí, is known for his unique and extremely intricate creations throughout Barcelona. For art-lovers everywhere, Airbnb is offering two guests the chance to stay in Gaudí’s first commission, Casa Vicens, for one night. The best part: It’ll cost just one euro ($1.19).
Photo: Airbnb
Casa Vicens, a stunning example of Art Nouveau and Modernism, was built in 1885 as a summer home and was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005. The colorful and heavily patterned house, which was restored and turned into a museum in 2017, will open its doors to two lucky overnight guests for the first time for a special promotional offer.
Photo: Airbnb
During a short, but exceptional, stay, guests will receive a private tour of the property, enjoy a Michelin-star meal in the gorgeous dining room, and a Mediterranean breakfast in the lush garden.
Photo: Airbnb
You’ll have to be quick, as booking is first-come, first-serve beginning July 12, 2021, at 7 AM Pacific time. The date of the stay is TBD, but expect it to come this fall.
The post This lavish Antoni Gaudí-decorated Barcelona home is available on Airbnb for €1 appeared first on Matador Network.
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