Matador Network's Blog, page 525
January 28, 2022
The perfect itinerary for a cannabis-filled trip to Chicago
When thinking about cannabis tourism, outdoorsy Western states like California or Colorado are often the first places that come to mind. But since Illinois decided to legalize recreational marijuana in 2020, the Midwest has been slowly gaining more to offer cannabis tourists and breaking stigma along the way, especially in the Windy City. Dispensaries and grow facilities have popped up in addition to interactive experiences that celebrate what makes Chicago great — with cannabis, of course.
Despite more prominent cannabis industries in other legal states, this booming metropolis with a rich culture and history is set to become the country’s next cannabis giant. Sparkling Lake Michigan matches California’s beaches, and city treks answer Colorado’s hikes. Here are some must-see cannabis experiences to book in Chicago.
1. Fancy dining with a weed-infused tasting menuHerbal Notes is Chicago’s premier THC-infused food experience headed by Manny Mendoza, winner of Cooked With Cannabis on Netflix. Mendoza makes Michelin-star quality meals infused with THC and CBD for a stoney high-end experience. Each menu’s five courses are infused with 2 milligrams of cannabis oil. He emphasizes that Herbal Notes dinners are made to be manageable, even for novice smokers. Though cannabis is an essential element of the meals, Mendoza wants Herbal Notes to allow his cooking skills, honed at the Culinary Institute of America, to shine.
“I don’t heavily infuse or medicate people’s foods because that’s not what I’m trying to do,” he says. “I’m a chef. I like to cook food; I want people to taste food. We don’t want to ruin people’s experiences.”
Although he’s serving up quality meals, he also strives to educate and be a force for good. Mendoza hopes for a more equitable cannabis industry that gives back to communities. “In the Midwest [cannabis has] been taboo up until recently,” he says. “The only culture we have is the War on Drugs culture.” He dedicates his work to people of color whose areas have been ravaged and disenfranchised by the War on Drugs. “Once marginalized communities and those most affected by the war on drugs can get more licenses and have more businesses…those people and communities can start building general wealth.”
Herbal Notes is in Mendoza’s native Pilsen, a Southside neighborhood he describes as a “pretty huge melting pot.” His desire to build a cannabis business took him to San Diego, but his love of his hometown brought him back to the Midwest. To Mendoza, Chicago offers a flavor and authenticity that can’t be matched. “[We Chicagoans have] a certain attitude, and toughness, and realness, and understanding of the situation around us.”
Despite his assertion that Chicago has a long way to go in the cannabis industry, he believes in his hometown. “It’s one of the top cities for food and drink, music, and sports. We have everything else except for the outdoors.”
2. Visit Chicagoland’s first cannabis speakeasy
Photo: Car Drakes
The Smoke Easy is a cannabis consumption lounge that invites both seasoned weed enthusiasts and beginners to have a fun and educational cannabis experience. Situated in the back of the Mundelein RISE Dispensary location, the Smoke Easy is a quick 45 minutes from downtown Chicago. It’s worth the trip to have access to sanitized rigs and pipes people might not normally have a chance try. Popular gear includes PuffCo vaporizers and the $600 Stundenglass gravity hookah.
Headed by Green Thumb Industries, founder and CEO Ben Kovler hopes to provide a safe and informative lounge for others to relax and connect.
The consumption space has a private VIP room available for events, along with a larger consumption space. Visitors enter the lounge through the RISE dispensary to purchase items they want to consume. Items include flower, pre-rolls, vapes, and THC-infused beverages by cannabis brands such as Rhythm, Dogwalkers, and luxury weed brand Beboe. Edibles are the only products prohibited from consumption due to the onset time.
3. Take in Chicago’s history on a cannabis bus tourView this post on InstagramA post shared by Chi High Tours (@chihightours)
Chi High Tours was founded in 2019 and has the bragging right of being the first cannabis bus tour company in Illinois. James Gordon created Chi High Tours to offer a fun cannabis tour experience and build equity and diversity in Chicago’s cannabis scene.
Chi High Tours celebrates all the things that make Chicago what it is. Tour packages range from jazz, comedy, or beer to the history of Chicago, and each is led by knowledgeable guides who offer fun how-to segments on rolling a cone, accurately judging THC tolerance, or differentiating between terpenes.
The popular jazz tour includes a visit to a dispensary and then a consumption spot where tourists can play games, use sanitized rigs, connect, and ask questions about cannabis. This is followed by live music at the world-famous Andy’s Jazz club. Dinner and drinks are available, and patrons are seated in a private section with a stunning view of River North.
Chi High’s marketing liaison Andrea Morris notes the three pillars of the tours: “Fun, education, and connection. We want people to genuinely engage with one another and network and have fun while safely consuming cannabis.”
Photo: Zack Buras at Sunnyside Dispensary
Mindy Segal is a James Beard award-winning chef who cut her chops in the Chicago culinary scene before entering the cannabis industry. She’s cooked at some of the best restaurants in the city, including the pivotal Charlie Trotter’s. Mindy’s Bakery is a Chicago institution and gives tourists a chance to experience her weed-free culinary crafts, though for people looking for something stronger there’s Mindy’s Edibles.
Segal partnered with Cresco Labs to create Mindy’s Chef-Led Artisanal Edibles in 2014 when Illinois legalized medical cannabis. Since the state legalized recreational cannabis, Segal has reached a much wider audience.
“Recreational [customers] are more excited about my micro dosed stuff,” Segal says. She notes that novices who are curious about edibles have enjoyed the lower-dosed treats (her gummies are especially popular) as a way to ease into the world of edibles. “[Medical marijuana patients] like a higher dose…they have more tolerance because they’re using it for pain.” Between crafting edibles for medical vs. recreational consumers, she notes, “There are differences. All the same, still just great that I can hit so many people.”
Segal seeks to destigmatize cannabis in the Midwest and nationwide by using her culinary genius to create unique and intense flavor profiles. Edibles are made with THC distillate so that the ingredients are the main focus; there’s no cannabis odor or aftertaste. The perfectly-dosed products come in flavors like Glazed Clementine Orange and Caramelized Chocolate Marshmallow Graham.
The Galapagos’ new ‘ocean highway’ will create amazing marine life encounters for visitors
one of south america’s top travel destinations has expanded protection for marine life by curtailing deep-sea fishing in their habitats. Earlier this month, the Ecuadorian government announced large-scale Galápagos fishing ban and restrictions across more than 20,000 square miles of ocean surrounding the popular islands, effectively creating a “highway” for sea life passing through, The Washington Post reported. This is great news for the sharks, marine mammals, coral, and fish in the water surrounding the Galápagos — and great news for eco-conscious travelers.
Most travelers head to the Galápagos Islands to scuba dive and snorkel or see wildlife-based destinations like the giant tortoise reserve and iguana-covered beaches. And the island chain, part of Ecuador, is a haven for scuba divers and snorkelers. More than 50,000 square miles of ocean around the islands have been protected since 1998.
However, sharks, sea lions, and other sea life were under threat of being caught as soon as they left the protected area, with deep-line fishing vessels often waiting just outside the protected boundaries. And since there’s no way for a fish or shark to know when they’ve left the preserve, it was disastrous. In many cases, mass amounts of sharks were caught for their fins to make dishes considered delicacies in parts of Asia.
Fortunately, eco-travel in the Galápagos has been on an upward swing for decades. Studies show that modern travelers care about the environmental impact of their journeys and want to have a positive impact on the places they visit. It’s now easier than ever to do so thanks to the new Galápagos fishing ban. Sea life have more space to freely swim and are less likely to accidentally leave the reserve, which also means more areas for mating and giving birth to increase the marine life populations. That creates more food for animals in the food web like fur seals and Galápagos sea lions, hopefully creating a larger (while still sustainable) population of most species. The Galápagos is also a prime habitat for shark mating, which happens between January and March.
Photo: Brendan van Son/Shutterstock
More sea life will bring in more tourism spends on snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing, and touring, which means more money for the islands to protect and defend the oceans. And more animals means a better wildlife viewing experiences for guests.
The coral reefs surrounding the islands also stand to benefit. Overfishing has destroyed the majority of the coral reefs surrounding the Galápagos Islands, according to the Galápagos Conservation Trust. Putting a stop to overfishing will allow marine life to repopulate while simultaneously allowing the reefs to recuperate, both naturally and via human-assisted coral planting. Spending money on the islands both supports that operation and demonstrates to the Ecuadorian government that the economic benefit of healthy oceans is more of a financial win than allowing them to be destroyed.
The Galápagos fishing ban gives travelers more reasons than ever to book that trip to the Galápagos Islands. Supporting the nature reserves on the islands signals to both the Ecuadorian government and governments around the world that wildlife and habitat protections bring in more tourist money, which powers nationwide economic development.
More climate wins this weekA federal court ended more than 80 million acres of gas leases in the Gulf of Mexico this week, citing poor environmental review, The New York Times reported. The leases were distributed in fall 2021 by the Department of the Interior and were the largest in US history. The process drew sharp rebukes from environmental groups given the Biden administration’s promise to curtail drilling on federal lands.
Photo: Bob Pool/Shutterstock
More than 500 acres of redwood forest in California were returned to the InterTribal Sinkyone Wilderness Council for long-term protection. A press release from Save The Redwoods League noted that this was the second time the non-profit group has partnered with the Tribal Council to protect a vast stretch of forest on the state’s Lost Coast.
Finally, one answer to reducing pollution from personal vehicles could be to tax businesses for parking spaces, much like paying tax on a home. The British city of Leicester is trying out a parking tax that, accordion to The Guardian could raise over $600 million in the next 10 years. That money would then go to green efforts like buying electric city buses and building out a better bicycling network throughout the city.
January 27, 2022
Experience the romance of Paris through these five iconic dishes
“I find the Eiffel tower hugely romantic,” Anne-Katrin Weber, author of the new cookbook, In Love with Paris: Recipes and Stories from the Most Romantic City in the World, gushes. Her book is full of photographs that capture the dream-like beauty and glamour of Parisian streets, its elegant gardens, and its decadent food.
“Close by you get all the perfect ingredients for a picnic in the park: almond croissants from Carette or artisan cheeses from the fromageries Laurent Dubois or Quatrehomme,” she continues, mapping a perfect day eating your way through Paris. “Just pick up a baguette from one of the amazing bakeries and you’re ready to go. Or share some lovely ice cream at Berthillon after kissing your loved one under Pont Marie.”
It might be a well-worn stereotype that Paris is the most romantic city in the world, but Weber embraces the city’s reputation, compiling iconic Parisian dishes alongside equally iconic French love stories. In the pages of In Love with Paris, Weber reprints letters between lovers Abelard and Heloise, as well as excerpts from Les Miserables, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, and poetry by Charles Baudelaire.
Weber also highlights what she considers some of the most romantic spots in Paris, offering a roadmap for visitors to create their own picturesque jaunt through the city. She pictures her book as a stroll through Paris, where readers can share “the beautiful view from Montmartre hill over the city with a loved person just when the sun is setting, going for a wine and cheese picnic in one of the picturesque Parisian parks, walking hand in hand along the Seine exploring the literary gems of the bouquinistes or just meandering from café to café through the stunning streets of Paris.” Couples, friends, and solo travelers looking for love will have no trouble finding it using In Love with Paris as a guide.
Photo: Hardie Grant Books
“In 19th century French literature one often comes across the flâneurs – observers of contemporary life,” Weber says. “My book is an invitation to the readers to become flâneurs and flâneuses going for a slow culinary walk discovering all the hidden love stories, romantic spots and culinary joys Paris has to offer.”
Food is a central element of the romance of Paris, and it’s key to Weber’s book, which offers classic French recipes that can be experienced in Paris and prepared at home. Weber encourages readers to spoil themselves with all of the decadent culinary offerings Paris has to offer – and she recommends starting with the city’s many iconic bistros.
“When I think of Paris, the first thing that comes to mind are the classic bistros,” Weber says. “In the cold season, many have displays of oysters and other delicious seafood set up in front, inviting you to have a glass of white wine and enjoy some fresh oysters. Then there’s the smell of the boulangeries and patisseries, bien sûr. No matter where you walk, so many streets smell of baguettes or croissants, it’s just heavenly, especially the smell of buttery sweet pastries is very seductive.”
The treats of Paris are tempting for any culinary adventurer, from cream filled pastries to cheesy baked potatoes. Whether you have the chance to try these five dishes in Paris – all of which Weber features in her book – or you recreate them in your kitchen for a Parisian escape at home, the romance of Paris is just a bite away.
1. Paris-Brest
Photo: Enya/Shutterstock
The Paris-Brest pastry is the height of decadence. Thick swirls of praline crème mousseline are sandwiched between two rings of pâte à choux flecked with sliced almonds. Beautiful to look at and divine to taste, the Paris-Brest is edible architecture. It gets its name from the bicycle race from Paris to Brest in Brittany. Today, the Paris-Brest can be found in most pâtisseries around Paris for those eager to taste a pastry that exemplifies the artistry, elegance, and precision of French cooking.
2. Moules marinières
Photo: Cheberkus/Shutterstock
A traditional French dish likely to appear on most restaurant menus in Paris, moules marinière is an enticing mixture of fresh mussels steamed in a broth seasoned with garlic, leeks, shallots, and white wine. Heavy cream gives the broth a rich, creamy texture ideal for dipping slices of fresh French bread.
3. Croque madame
Photo: Stepanek Photography/Shutterstock
To call the croque madame a sandwich would be to seriously undersell its flavors. This decadent version of a grilled cheese sandwich has slices of ham coated in rich béchamel sauce that are sandwiched between bread topped with melted layers of Gruyère cheese. The sandwich’s crown is a crispy fried egg. The croque madame is a bistro staple, particularly for brunch, and a prime example of how French cuisine elevates even the most humble dish to lavish culinary heights.
4. Gratin dauphinois
Photo: Irina Meliukh/Shutterstock
Like the croque madame, gratin dauphinois is a dish that transforms basic ingredients into a culinary masterpiece. Sliced potatoes are layered with cream, garlic, salt, pepper, and a generous dusting of Gruyère cheese. This is the French version of comfort food, elegant in its simplicity and rich in its flavors. Traditionally eaten by peasants in France’s Dauphiné region, bistros all over Paris feature some version of creamy, cheesy potatoes on their menus.
5. Tarte Tatin
Photo: SMarina/Shutterstock
Invented in 1888 by the Tatin sisters, who ran a hotel in the Loire Valley, the tarte Tatin is one of the most famous French dishes in the world for good reason: This upside down tart consists of crispy, crumbly pastry crust topped with apples (or pears or peaches) caramelized in butter and sugar. The sliced apples turn an alluring burnt-amber hue in the oven, so like most French dishes Tarte Tatin looks as good as it tastes. This rustic dessert must be eaten warm, and is enjoyed plain or sometimes topped with cream.
A remote worker compares the cost of living in Paris vs suburban America
There are plenty of amazing small towns in America to consider visiting, staying short-term as a digital nomad, or settling down full-time. And as life in the big city gets more expensive, it can be tempting to consider a big move. But what if instead of downsizing to a small city in America, you went for a big city somewhere else?
Travel influencer Olivia Frances posted in an Instagram reel how much it really costs to switch from her hometown of Alpharetta, Georgia (population of under 70,000 people), to Paris, France — population of 2.16 million and noted by some standards as the second most expensive city in the world.
Yet the way that Frances laid out the comparison of costs might surprise you. Here’s how it all stacked up:
Alpharetta, Georgia versus ParisHealthcare: $495 versus $95 per monthTransportation: $322 for gas and car insurance versus $75 for metro tickets per monthCellphone plan: $80 for AT&T versus $35 for SFR per monthRent: $2000 versus $1400 per monthTotal: $2897 versus $1600 monthlyView this post on InstagramA post shared by Liv | female traveler (@oliviafrances143)
In 2021, Paris was ranked as the 33rd most expensive city in the world for ex-pats. Frances noted that she used the average price of healthcare for freelancers in the US and the average cost of rent in her hometown. When she lived in the US, she worked remotely for a US company. She also said she spends between $45 and $55 per week on groceries and an average of $6 to $22 when eating out.
A move to France gives you the opportunity to see icons like the Louvre and eat your way through every region of the beautiful country. Traveling through the rest of Europe is easy, with great options like cheap EU flights and sleeper trains.
Want to go for a test run to see if Paris is for you? Start with an amazing Paris Airbnb that’s available to book month to month. When considering a move out the country, the sky is definitely the limit.
These were the most-liked homes on Airbnb’s Instagram in 2021
Sometimes you already know where you want to go, fire up your favorite booking platform, and simply search for accommodation. Sometimes you didn’t know you just had to travel somewhere until a colorful, eye-catching photo of a treehouse popped up on your Instagram feed. When it comes to Airbnbs, the accommodation can often be even more enticing than the destination, and Airbnb’s Instagram account is the perfect source of inspiration for your next trip. These are the Airbnbs that received the most likes on Airbnb’s Instagram page in 2021.
We hope you love the most-liked Airbnbs of 2021! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication. See our full Advertiser Disclosure here.
Zion EcoCabin – Hildale, UtahPhoto: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
This A-frame eco-cabin has stunning panoramic views of the Zion Mountains. Perfect for a couple looking for a cozy glamping experience, this cabin is one of the best properties in utah for a national parks trip.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: From $645 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
This off-the-grid treehouse is located high among the tree branches in a 40-acre wildlife preserve. Nearby, you’ll find hiking, artisan shops, wineries, and restaurants, and despite the remote location, this Asheville-area Airbnb is just 10 miles from the regional airport.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: From $129 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Nestled among the redwoods of Monte Rio, the Crow’s Nest has views of the surrounding old growth forest, as well as a hot tub and patio. The wide-open floor plan and airy design will give you more than enough room to relax and enjoy the redwood panoramas.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: From $444 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Just minutes from Kingdom Trails, Burke Mountain, and Lake Willoughby, this A-frame is quintessential rustic Vermont. You might not have access to big city amenities, but the cabin’s rural charm makes it one of the best remote Airbnbs in New England.
Four guests, three bedrooms
Price: From $237 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Sitting on five acres of an old growth private forest, the Woodlands House has two outdoor decks surrounded by pine trees. The home was built in a mixture of mid-century and Scandinavian design, and a six-person hot tub that’s perfect for relaxing after a day of skiing, making it one of the best accommodations in the Pacific Northwest.
Seven guests, four bedrooms
Price: From $437 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
This modern villa, large enough to accommodate 10 guests, is designed to be both energy efficient and to blur the line between indoors and outdoors, with an open-air dining area and pool. Located in an ecological-minded neighborhood, between a white sand beach and the town center, this villa is one of the best places to stay in Tulum.
Ten guests, five bedrooms
Price: From $705 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Floating at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers in Belgrade, the Mariner Boathouse is docked on Ada Ciganlija, a former island and current recreational sports complex. There are four miles of beaches and several restaurants nearby, making the houseboat an ideal base for exploring Belgrade.
Ten guests, three bedrooms
Price: From $150 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
A traditional wood-frame farmhouse, this 18th century home combines rustic, rural charm with modern luxury. Surrounded by century-old oaks, the modest accommodation also has a private heated pool. It’s certainly not as ritzy as Paris’ most luxurious Airbnbs, but you’ll be more than comfortable.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: From $221 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
This boutique timber-clad cabin is located in the heart of a forest, 10 minutes from Mineral del Chico and Real del Monte. There’s a private terrace with a barbecue, a fireplace, and floor-to-ceiling windows for enjoying views of the surrounding forest.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: From $71 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
A garden retreat surrounded by tall oak trees, this poolside guest house sits on the property of two former Georgia governors. It has a fire pit, pool, and a bedroom that used to be a smokehouse in the mid-19th century.
Three guests, one bedroom
Price: From $140 per night
Spain is introducing a new digital nomad visa to attract remote workers
In the boom of remote work stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic, travelers are snatching up the opportunity to become digital nomads, and countries worldwide are creating new visas to welcome them. Spain is the latest country getting ready to welcome the change with a digital nomad visa that’s expected to be finalized within the next few months.
“The digital nomad visa will attract and retain international and national talents by helping remote workers and digital nomads set up in Spain,” according to a statement by the Ministry of Economy Nadia Calvino, as reported by The Independent. “Startups are the foundation of the new digital economy; they generate highly skilled jobs and have high growth potential.”
This will be beneficial for people hoping to work remotely in the country and who previously couldn’t under Spain’s standard 90-day tourist visa. With the country’s recent Startup Act, foreign nationals working remotely for non-Spanish companies won’t need more complicated visas to live in the country. The law will is on its way to Parliament and must gain a majority vote to be passed.
Internationals from non-European Economic Area (EEA) countries and people who hold EU passports or those arriving from Schengen Zone countries will be able to apply, according to Spanish legal experts. You’ll need to make at least 80 percent of your income from companies outside Spain. Digital nomad visa-holders will be able to spend six to 12 months in the country with the option to receive up to two extensions.
Norway, Croatia, and Georgia already have digital nomad-friendly visas, and other countries like Costa Rica are expected to follow their lead. And there are great cities in the United States to travel to as a digital nomad as well if you don’t want to bother with a visa.
Go here, not there: Choquequirao is as epic as Machu Picchu (but without the crowds)
Maykol Connaya Puga finished tying the two giant duffel bags together and took a deep breath before heaving them up with a grunt. For a split second, he stood there, regaining his balance with both bags clutched to his chest, before gently setting them on the waiting mule’s back.
These bags contained camping equipment for the first night of our five-day trek. My group knew the trek would be challenging, but as we peered into the Apurímac Canyon and across to the Choquequirao Inca ruins (officially the Choquequirao Archaeological Park), the trek seemed far more visceral. The canyon is deep and Choquequirao is high on the opposite side, making the elevation gain more intimidating than the mileage.
The trail at Capuliyoc starts at 9,950 feet above sea level before dropping to 3,280 feet over 5.6 miles. Then, it’s another 6.4 miles to the Choquequirao ruins. The trail is as old as Choquequirao itself, part of the system of Inca trails that stretch throughout most of South America. It’s hard; it was built for and by the Inca, not for people who spend most of their time working at a computer. There’s been a tram planned for nearly a decade, but construction has yet to begin.
Maykol, our guide, is 26 years old. He left the Apurímac Canyon in 2013 to be a mechanic but moved home during the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Now, the only transportation he works with are his mules.
Maykol Connaya Puga feeding one of his mules before heading out on the trail // Photo: Heather Jasper
There are a lot of reasons to brave the trail to the Choquequirao ruins. Like with Machu Picchu, the runs were never discovered by the Spanish, so they never suffered the purposeful destruction of places like Sacsayhuaman and Ollantaytambo. Choquequirao is often called the “sister site of Machu Picchu,” though it’s actually much more extensive (but also partially covered by jungle). But while Machu Picchu is overrun by tourists and questionable operators, the people who live in the canyon near the Choquequirao ruins are extremely friendly and anxious to meet global travelers. Before the pandemic, the closest estimate was that about 10,000 people visited Choquequirao per year, compared to nearly 1.5 million visitors that head to Machu Picchu. There’s no permit system as Machu Picchu has, and all travelers have to do to visit Choquequirao is register at the park ranger station by the trailhead in Capuliyoc (and pay a reasonable $20 park fee).
Choquequirao Trek: Day OneOne of the best parts of the trail to the Choquequirao ruins is that there’s no need to pack food or cooking supplies. Many of the canyon’s families operate restaurants for travelers, and much of it comes from their gardens, where they cultivate everything from fruits and vegetables to Andean staples like potatoes and quinoa.
On our first day, we stopped in the village of Chiquiska, where Melchora Puga (Maykol’s mother) prepared quinoa chaufa for our group, similar to fried rice. “I spent 2020 watching cooking shows on YouTube,” she explained. “There were no tourists and nothing else to do. I wanted to improve my cooking because I knew tourists would return some day.”
Photo: Heather Jasper
From Chiquiska, the trail continued down to a bridge crossing above the river’s canyon, where trekkers usually stop to swim. From there, it’s 3,460 feet of elevation gain to Santa Rosa. It’s tough on the knees, and no matter how hungry you are, you’ll certainly be thirstier — it’s hot in the bottom of the canyon.
Santa Rosa is the only stop along the route without cabins, though it does have bathrooms. But camping costs only s/5 Peruvian Nuevo Soles (about $1.25 USD). There’s only one family in Santa Rosa and they manage all the lodging and dining. There used to be two families in town, but one moved to a larger city to open a restaurant. Maykol worries that the family in Santa Rosa will also have to move if hikers continue to use guides from the cities rather than hiring local guides.
“The problem is that agencies usually send guides from Cusco with their own cook. They always bring food from the markets in Cusco, so they don’t buy meals from us,” he says. “Now, with cabins in both Chiquiska and Marampata, it’s better for people to come on their own. They might hire a guide, but they don’t need to bring food or a cook. We have everything here.”
Choquequirao Trek: Day Two
The small town of Marampata, close to the Choquequirao site // Photo: Heather Jasper
The second day is all uphill. It’s slower but easier on the knees, and our group made it to Marampata by midday. As with most groups, we took a break until around 2:00 PM when the sun and heat were too intense. Marampata is a tiny village, with about twenty houses spread out across a hillside, each surrounded by cultivated fields. It’s the closest you can stay to the Choquequirao ruins.
We stayed at Mamita Panchita, and Luisa Francesca Ccaihuari Hoyos — Panchita for short — came out to welcome us. She said that what she loves about hosting travelers is meeting people from all around the world.
“Actually, I like it even more when people ask about my garden,” she said with a smile. “I like to show them what I plant and how to harvest,” she says. “Nobody in Marampata buys chemical fertilizer. It’s too expensive and too hard to bring from the city. More than that, we prefer to eat natural food. We know that the chemicals are bad for our land and bad for us.”
In the afternoon, I walked around the village, passing dozens of mules that generally wander freely through town. Marampata is beautiful, perched high on the canyon wall. You can see across to Chiquiska and the trailhead in Capuliyoc. From the far side of the village, you can also see the Choquequirao ruins, less than two miles away.
Choquequirao Trek: Day Three
The majority of the Choquequirao ruins are still unexcavated and buried by jungle // Photo: Heather Jasper
I had coffee the third morning with Panchita and her husband Julio, who informed me he was making the trek to Cachora, six miles beyond our starting point. I tried to imagine a man in his 60s walking in one day what had taken my group a full two days.
“My family has been here since 1809,” Julio told me. “Everybody in Marampata is a Covarrubias; we’re all related. We used to farm some of the terraces that are part of Choquequirao, and we lived there. I grew up playing soccer on the Choquequirao plaza. It was our land, but now it’s owned by the Ministry of Culture, and we have moved all our fields to different areas. Nobody farms at Choquequirao anymore. It’s protected.”
When not busy hosting guests, Julio works rebuilding and reinforcing the trail. The government said that if rockslides continue to damage the trail, locals will have to build an entirely new one. “They know we’ll do it because of how important tourism is for us,” he says. “We need to have a good trail.”
From Marampata, it’s 1.5 miles downhill to the Choquequirao ruins. Maykol explained that Choquequirao means “cradle of gold” in Quechan – possibly due to a rumored nearby gold mine – and that it’s divided into 12 sections for everything from agriculture to stone carving. He tells us that as much as he loves the site, his favorite spot is the usnu — a flat hilltop from which you can see into the valley and stargaze at night.
Photo: luciezr/Shutterstock
As we walked around the site, we saw stone llamas built into walls and a system of canals and fountains that carried water approximately four kilometers from the Chunchumayu river. Because the city was on the Inca Trail, roads ran to Vilcabamba (12 days on foot) and Machu Picchu (7 days on foot).
With some of my free time at the site, I talked to other travelers, including Peruvian-born Irene, who now lives in Alsace, France. It was on her trip to Peru in 2010 that she first heard about Choquequirao. She was with her friend Noémie, who was on her first trip to Peru and seemed to love everything about it, though she could tell the pandemic had been hard on the economy.
“Our muleteer told us that we are his first group in almost two years. There are still so many people without work, but they support each other,” she says. “It’s something I think we’ve lost in France, and I really appreciate seeing it here.”
Back in Marampata, while shelling fava beans with Panchita, she filled me in on the village’s history. At 62, she’s the oldest resident. It’s home to 15 families, and hikers have been coming through since the early 1990s. While early travelers would camp and be fairly self-reliant, she says that most travelers in the last few years have taken advantage of their lodging and cooking. “I can cook for up to twenty people at a time,” she tells me.
Panchita outside her home in the Apurímac Canyon // Photo: Heather Jasper
During the pandemic in 2020, most of her nine children moved home, and she eventually had 22 people living with her, including grandchildren. No one contracted COVID-19, and while most of them moved back to the cities, her daughter Ruth still lives with her.
I asked Ruth, or Ruthcarina Covarrubias Ccaihuari, what it was like growing up in the tiny village of Marampata. The village doesn’t have a school or health facility as the government will only build official facilities for towns with at least 200 residents.
“The government told us that we can build a private school, but nobody here can pay tuition for a private school. Also, it’s too hard to get teachers to stay in Marampata. We’re so isolated, so far from anything,” Ruth offers.
Ruth also knows that the language barriers can be a challenge for finding professionals like midwives or teachers. In Marampata, residents speak Quechua. It’s the traditional Inca language, but only about a quarter of Peruvians speak any form of it. Spanish is the country’s official language.
Cachora is the nearest “big” town near the ruins // Photo: Island Photographer/Shutterstock
“Maybe we could find a doctor or a teacher who wanted to live far from the city, but how do we find one who also speaks Quechua?” adds Ruth. She thinks that Quechua-speaking children don’t have enough opportunities to grow up and become doctors or teachers, which further complicates the problem. Panchita grew up in Cachora and speaks Spanish, but she’s in the minority. Aside from a few Spanish-speaking guides, Quechua is the only language for most residents. Panchita thinks the government has forgotten about them out in the valley, but Ruth points out the government’s contributions to their tourism infrastructure, like solar panels and cooking ranges.
Later that night, I returned for dinner and chatted with Juan Carlos Covarrubias, Panichita’s eldest son. He guided in Cusco for ten years. Now, he and his wife own Apurímac Adventures, where he does the guiding, and she does the office work. He moved back to Marampata as he thought it’d be safer for his children during the COVID-19 pandemic. He says that families in the valley used the lockdown to improve tourist facilities. Twelve of the town’s families built new cabins, and the others improved their dining rooms and kitchens. Panchita, his mother, built a new dining room four times as large as the old one.
His next goal? Help everyone in the valley benefit more from tourism.
“Right now, many people stay at the first house they see. I want to make a sign at the entrance to Marampata so visitors can see the names of all the families who offer lodging,” he says. He also wants to expand cell and internet access; he thinks only one person so far has listed their cabins on Airbnb.
It was already 9:00 PM, which is late for people who get up at 5:00 AM to work. I thanked Juan Carlos for his time and went back to my cabin.
Choquequirao Trek: Day Four
Adobe cabins built by Maykol Connaya Puga // Photo: Heather Jasper
Our return trip descended into the canyon for a dip before returning to Chiquiska. We stayed in cabins Maykol built in 2020 from handmade adobe bricks. They have thick walls and, like any well-made adobe, are cool during the day and warm at night. Below the cabins is the canyon and the snowy peak of Salkantay in the distance.
During this time, Maykol tells me more about his history. His family has owned land in Chiquiska for ages, but they mostly used it graze and rest mules. They didn’t build a guesthouse until 2019, giving them only a year to operate before the forced shutdowns. “The borders of Peru were closed for most of 2020, and we didn’t have a single tourist come through between February and November,” he says. “I had to sell 25 of our 40 mules just to get through the year.”
He tells me that a trekking agency called Amazonas Explorer brought food to people who needed help, as did he and his family. “Here we work with ‘ayni,'” he says, “which is a Quechua word. You can translate it as ‘today for you, tomorrow for me.'” Maykol tells me that he hasn’t bought his mules back. He rented the mules we’re using from a family in Cachora as Maykol likes to let his mules rest for several weeks between trips. But despite the hardships, he thinks he’ll stay in the canyon rather than going back to the city to be a mechanic again.
Photo: Heather Jasper
“I like walking the trails, helping travelers, and seeing them leave happy with their trip,” he says. “I like working with the mules.”
“What do you not like about your work?” I couldn’t help asking.
“The uphill and the downhill,” Maykol said with a laugh.
Trek logistics:Most travel agencies charge between $500-$800 to do the Choquequirao trek. If you opt to do Choquequirao on your own, with a local guide but without a travel agency, it costs about $50 for round-trip transportation from Cusco plus about $20 per day for food and lodging from local families. Most people do it in three to five days, depending on how fast you want to hike and how much time you want at the ruins. Choquequirao sits roughly 8,600 feet above sea level, so plan on five days to acclimate if you’re coming from a lower elevation.
The best time to visit is March through November, as the winter months tend to be rainy and wet. It would be difficult – but not impossible – to do the trek with a local guide if you don’t speak Spanish (but you’ll want to download a cell phone translator app).
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This affordable city is near Mexico’s best beaches (and a hell of a lot of cool cenotes)
in 2018, merida earned the title of the “best city to live in Mexico” in the United Nation’s City Prosperity Index, ranking it number one in quality of life, as well as other factors like cost of living and low crime. And let’s be honest: it also doesn’t hurt that it sits in a privileged location on the beautiful Yucatan Peninsula, surrounded by Mayan ruins, stunning jungle and access to nature, and never-crowded, white-sand beaches.
Merida, Mexico, is a picturesque colonial city and the capital of Yucatan State in southeast Mexico. It’s an incredible destination to visit, full of history, culture, art, and small family-run restaurants (called fondas) that serve up exquisite Yucatan cuisine (much of which is a modern-day version of Mayan dishes).
But, without a doubt, you can’t say you’ve been to Merida if you haven’t swum in one of the surrounding cenotes and visited one of the best Merida, Mexico beaches, all of which are just a short drive away. You could fill several weeks with exploring the area’s destinations, so to make it a bit easier, scope the list below of the best Merida, Mexico beaches and cenotes you’ll definitely want to plan to visit.
The best Merida, Mexico beachesMerida isn’t technically on the beach, since it’s about 30 minutes to the coast. But that makes the town less crowded and more affordable — and really, what’s a 30-minute drive for beaches like these? The best Merida beaches are as beautiful as those of Cancun and the Riviera Maya, but have none of the crowds. In fact, on their stretches of soft white sand, you won’t find too many foreign tourists, but rather, locals fishing or relaxing with families and friends on the sand. Don’t expect to find big resorts, spas, or five-star restaurants. These Merida beaches are semi-pristine, with authentic, laid-back Yucatan vibes.
Puerto Progreso
Photo: Hector Rivera Casillas/Shutterstock
Known to locals simply as Progreso, this is the closest beach to Merida. It’s where many locals have weekend homes and small boats, and it is where the city’s young people go for beach parties on the weekends.
The town of Puerto Progreso is the largest coastal town near Merida and has plenty of restaurants, all kinds of shops, and beach clubs with cool vibes. You don’t need to pay anything to use this beach near Merida, but restaurants and beach clubs will usually have a fee or minimum buy to use the palapas, loungers, and facilities.
Progreso’s beach is tranquil and enjoyable during most of the year. However, if you want to avoid crowds, don’t come during summer vacations or Easter week as that’s when the port is packed, especially with locals from other towns enjoying time away from school and work. Progreso is home to the world’s longest pier (it’s four miles long), which keeps freighter ships far off shore, and thus the water near the shore very clean.
One of the other reasons Progreso is one of the best beaches near Merida, Mexico is that it’s home to the ecological reserve of El Corchito. The large area has cenotes, boat tours of the mangroves, and opportunities to see native flora and fauna.
ChicxulubJust five miles from Progreso is the port of Chicxulub, famous for being the place where the massive dinosaur-killing Chicxulub crater landed around 65 million years ago. Unfortunately, the Chicxulub crater is no longer visible, but travelers can visit the Chicxulub Crater Science Museum if they’re interested in learning more about the area’s ancient history.
It can be a bit hard to notice when you’re in Chicxulub since there’s no break in development between Chicxulub and Progreso. But look out for a sign. Otherwise, you may not even notice when you’ve arrived. The beach at Chicxulubis just as beautiful as the rest of the area, with white sand and calm, clear water. Most residents in this beach near Merida are primarily anglers by trade, so this is one the best beaches in Merida for seafood. There are restaurants for all tastes, with many options for street food serving antojitos (small snacks with corn or cheese filling) and cochinita pibil (BBQ pork).
Many people choose to spend a night in Chicxulub to make it easy to visit other nearby beaches like Chelem and Chuburna. Hotels and rentals are fairly inexpensive, and it’s not unusual to see flamingos walking on the shore if you wake up for a morning beach walk.
Sisal
Photo: Chad Zuber/Shutterstock
Just about an hour away is one of the best beaches near Merida for a laid-back day or overnight trip: Sisal. It was the first commercial port on the Yucatan Peninsula and the place from which locals used to export products like cotton, tobacco, and “henequen.” which can be made into rope and various textiles. It was called “green gold,” thanks to the economic impact its production had on the area during the 19th century.
Today, Sisal is a quiet fishing village with a beautiful beach of turquoise blue waters and several attractions, such as an old fort, an ecological reserve, mangroves with springs, cenotes, flamingo viewpoints, and small restaurants with cozy palapas serving all kinds of family recipe seafood dishes.
In 2020, Sisal received the Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) designation, a program created by the Mexican Ministry of Tourism to recognize small destinations with a fascinating historical and cultural heritage, exquisite local gastronomy, symbolic tourist attractions, and natural beauty.
Best cenotes near MeridaCenotes are unique to the Yucatan Peninsula. They’re essentially sinkholes, fed by aquifers (and rain). Cenotes are generally cooler than the ocean at an average temperature of about 75 F (24 C).The water is very clear and bright blue, and they’re usually surrounded by jungle — pretty stunning stuff.
These natural pools owe their name to the Mayans, who called them dz’onot. The pronunciation sounds like a bit like the word “centore” — the “dz” sound is a bit like a “ch” sound, so “dz’onot” sounds like a bit like “chnote” when properly pronounced. And “cenote” (which Americans generally pronounce as “suh-no-tay”) is the Americanized version of that. The ancient Mayans had a strong connection with the cenotes both as a water source and potential connection to the underworld. Divers and archeologists have found jade, copper, gold, and even textiles left as offerings.
Besides stunning jungle locales and clear water, the cenotes have stalactite formation formed by water droplets that slowly dissolve the limestone rock over time. On average, it takes between 4,000 and 5,000 years for a stalagmite to grow one inch. Current estimates proposed around 3,000 cenotes throughout the Yucatan Peninsula. Some are open to the public and have amenities like snorkel rentals and restrooms, while others are on private property or undeveloped in the middle of the jungle. They’re all amazing to visit, but be sure not to use sunscreen or bug spray around the cenotes as the chemicals are quite damaging to the land and water.
Cenote XlacahThe Yucatan Peninsula is full of ancient pre-Hispanic settlements and Dzibilchaltun is the closest archaeological site to Merida. It’s one of the oldest Mayan cities and currently is home to the pre-Hispanic city, an eco-archaeological park (where you’ll find Xlacah cenote), and the Museum of the Mayan People.
The Xlacah cenote is 320 feet wide and 147 feet deep, making it one of the largest and deepest cenotes in the Yucatan. This cenote is entirely open-air and is at ground level, so it’s easy to access. An excellent plan is to visit the archaeological site before cooling down with a dip in the cenote.
Entry fee: $10Opening hours: Daily 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.Drive time from Merida: 25 minutesCenote San Ignacio
Photo: Cenote San Ignacio
Just a quick half-hour from Merida, in the town of Chochola, is Cenote San Ignacio, one of the best cenotes in the area. Like Xlacah, it has clear turquoise water, but unlike Xlacah, this cenote is inside a cave. Wooden stairs make access easy, and since it’s fairly shallow, it’s a good place to snorkel and see the marine life near the cenote floor.
San Ignacio is an ecotourism center with a restaurant serving regional specialties, bathroom and changing rooms, hammock gardens, and even overnight cabins. It’s also one of the few cenotes you can visit at night, which is a more romantic (and spooky) atmosphere.
Entry fee: $8 for day visits, $15 after 8 p.m. Reservations are encouraged.Opening hours: Daily 9 a.m. – 12 a.m.Drive time from Merida: 35 minutesCenotes at Hacienda Mucuyche
Photo: Hacienda Mucuyche
While it’s not a cenote in Merida, it’s easy enough for a quick morning trip. The incredible Hacienda Mucuyche dates to the 17th century and is almost entirely original with minimal restoration. On the grounds of the hacienda are two fascinating cenotes connected by a canal.
To keep the cenotes in an optimal condition and reduce damage from too many tourists, the only way to swim in the cenotes is on a guided tour that runs approximately two hours. The tour is fantastic, leading guests past unique landscapes that combine the emerald waters of the cenotes with vegetation, hanging roots, rock formations, and caves.
At the end of the tour, you can stay and enjoy the hacienda’s facilities, jump in the pool, or have lunch at the on-site restaurant.
Entry fee: 28 USD. Reservations required.Opening hours: Daily 9 a.m – 3 p.m.Drive time from Merida: 50 minutesCenotes in Cuzama and HomunCuzama and Homun are two towns close to Merida, and both are mainly known as the starting points for tours to cenotes as there are about 15 in the area. Some are underground with no natural light while others are semi-open with a few rays of sunlight that reflect in the area. Others are completely uncovered.
Many locals in Cuzama and Homun make a living from taking tourists to the cenotes and have well-organized tours that include transportation to a few different cenotes. It’s best to let locals take you as they likely know the cenote owners and know the history — and legends — of the various sites. If you can tear yourself away from the best beaches in Merida to visit the best cenotes in Merida, this is the place. They’re all beautiful in their own way, but some top choices include Cenote Canunchen, which has a natural skylight that lights up the cave; the tiny, private-pool-feeling Pool Cocom Cenote; or the Tres Oches cenotes, with plenty of places to jump into the water from nearly 15 feet above.
Entry fee: The entrance fee to each cenote is around $5.Opening hours: Many are on private land, but they’re generally open from around 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.Distance from Merida: 50 minutes
This military pilot hack will help you fall asleep on any plane
When traveling on a plane, especially on longer flights, one of the best things to do is try to get some shut-eye. It can also be one of the most challenging — especially if you booked in economy. Fitness expert Justin Agustin went viral on TikTok explaining the military method, claiming that 96 percent of people who used the technique could fall asleep in precisely two minutes.
Soldiers often have to deal with uncomfortable sleeping conditions and noise, so the method was invented specifically for fighter pilots because lack of sleep can significantly affect your reflexes.
@justin_agustin Technique to falling asleep in 2 minutes! Insp. AsapSCIENCE on YT #sleep #fallasleep #insomnia #insomniac #learnontiktok #howto ♬ You – Petit Biscuit
The technique is pretty simple, and it’s suggested that, for best results, give yourself six weeks of practice to master it. The first step is body relaxation. Begin by relaxing the body in sections from head to toe. Start with your forehead, then eyes, cheeks, shoulders, arms, fingers, stomach, thighs, knees, legs, and feet. It helps to imagine a warm sensation going down your body and focus on your breathing. To relax your mind, there are two scenarios to choose from: Think of lying in a canoe on a calm lake with clear skies or lying in a black velvet hammock in a black room. If you get distracted, repeat the words “don’t think” for 10 seconds.
Don’t fret if this doesn’t work for you. There’s no shortage of techniques from sleep experts like sleep science coach John Breese, who has some tips for getting the best shut-eye. These include wearing comfortable clothing and bringing the essentials like noise-canceling headphones, an eye mask, a blanket, and a travel pillow. Avoid substances like caffeine and alcohol and choose water instead. And to avoid being woken up, try to pick a seat that’s away from the bathrooms and keep your seatbelt visible.
Hopefully, these tips will help you catch a good snooze so that you arrive at your destination well rested.
Where to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit
Immersive art exhibits are all the rage these days. There are immersive Van Gogh exhibits in over 40 cities in the United States, and other famous artists are getting their own digital shows every few months. Among them is Mexican artist Friday Kahlo.
Frida Kahlo is one of the most celebrated female painters in history and the best place to see her work (in physical form, not digital) is at the Frida Kahlo Museum in Mexico, otherwise known as La Casa Azul, or “The Blue House.”
@matadornetwork Watch Frida Kahlo's famous paintings come to life at #FridaInmersiva in #MexicoCity 🎨 #FridaKahlo #immersiveart ♬ mr. forgettable – david kushner
The trend of immersive Frida Kahlo exhibits, where her paintings are projected on a venue’s walls, ceilings, and floors for visitors to be totally immersed in the work, started in Mexico City last summer, but it has since spread across the border to the US. Here are all the cities in the US where you can catch a Friday Kahlo exhibit and take in the works of the iconic painter like never before.
Frida Kahlo exhibit in BostonImmersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: February 10 to May 8, 2022
Where: Lighthouse ArtSpace Boston at The Castle, 130 Columbus Avenue, Boston, MA 02116
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Immersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: February 24 to May 28, 2022
Where: Lighthouse Artspace Chicago, 108 W. Germania Pl, Chicago, IL 60610
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Immersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: February 3 to April 17, 2022
Where: Lighthouse Artspace Dallas, 507 S Harwood Street, Dallas, TX 75201
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Immersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: March 3 to May 30, 2022
Where: Lighthouse Artspace Denver, 3900 Elati Street, Denver, CO 80216
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Immersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: February 17 to April 17, 2022
Where: Lighthouse Artspace Houston, 1314 Brittmoore Road, Houston TX 77043
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Immersive Frida Kahlo: Her Life. Her Love. Her Art.
When: March 31 to June 11, 2022
Where: Lighthouse Artspace Hollywood, 6400 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90028
Hours of operation: Varies daily. Check the schedule for up-to-date exhibit hours.
Ticket price: Starts at $39.99 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a Premium or VIP experience that can cost up to $109.99. Purchase here.
Mexican Geniuses. A Frida and Diego Immersive Exhibit
When: From May 15, 2022
Where: TBA
Hours of operation: Weekdays: 10 AM to 9 PM. Weekends and holidays: 9 AM to 9 PM.
Ticket price: Starts at $36 for adults for a Basic ticket. The price of the Basic ticket varies according to the date chosen. Tickets can be upgraded for a VIP experience that can cost up to $64.90. Purchase here.
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