Matador Network's Blog, page 227
November 16, 2023
Where To Stay, Eat, and Play in Quebec for the Fall Trip of a Lifetime
Fall is the best time of the year to head to Quebec — especially if you’re the outdoorsy type. The province is chock-full of opportunities to hike and paddle among some of the brightest, most colorful leaves out there. It’s also the perfect time to spot beluga whales on the St. Lawrence River and zipline above the multi-colored foliage of Charlevoix. And after all the efforts and excitement, you can reward yourself with local fall-focused treats: apple crêpes and a maple coffee, among other indulgences.
We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
How to get to QuebecThe easiest and quickest way to get to Quebec City from the United States is to fly directly to Quebec City Jean Lesage International Airport (YQB). The first views of the fall foliage and St. Lawrence River from the air are almost as pleasant as the Canadian border agents at this smaller but well-operated modern international airport. Alternatively, you can fly into Montreal. It’s less than a three-hour drive or train ride north to Quebec City.
If you’re up for an adventure, you can ride Amtrak’s Maple Leaf train to Toronto and then ride Via Rail to Quebec City. It’s a little more involved than flying, but it’s also a great way to see the foliage.
How to get around QuebecIf you plan to stay in Montreal or Quebec City for the duration of your trip, you can use your feet, local public transportation, or Uber. However, if you want to access the outdoors and make your way to the stunning areas of Charlevoix and Côte-Nord, plan to rent a car. Make all the arrangements to rent a vehicle prior to your visit to be sure to get a car upon arrival — spontaneity is rarely your friend when it comes to car rentals.
What to do in Quebec for the outdoorsy travelerIn Côte-Nord: Go whale watching
Photo: Potifor/Shutterstock
The St. Lawrence River is a prime location for whale watching, in large part due to the beluga whales that inhabit its water year-round. From the village of Tadoussac, you might get lucky and see a whale from the shores, but to maximize your chance of spotting one, head out on a 2.5-hour expedition with Croisières AML. They have phenomenal bilingual experts on board who will do their best so you can observe a beluga, humpback, fin, minke, and even the extremely rare blue whale. And if you don’t spot anything, you get a free ticket for another whale-watching cruise .
To learn more about the whales you’ll see during the expedition, stop by the Marine Mammal Interpretation Center (CIMM) beforehand. This interactive exhibit features whale skeletons that you can touch (and even walk inside of) to better understand the majestic creatures of the St. Lawrence River. Catch the well-produced video about the curious and playful beluga whales and fall in love with these unique marine creatures before you even see them in the wild.
In Côte-Nord: Hike in the Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay
Photo: jo Crebbin
/Shutterstock
Those looking to take in the views of the fjord for multiple days should consider a backpacking circuit in the Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay. With hut-to-hut, rustic camping, and lean-to options, you can plan out an epic route. For a day hike, consider Géant Lookout Hike (four to five hours and 6.3 miles) in the La Baie-Éternité Sector.
Walking small sections of the park without leaving Tadoussac is also possible by taking the short Pointe de l’Islet hike with boardwalks and views of the bay, or the Colline de l’Anse à l’Eau Trail to spot the roof of the Hotel Tadoussac through the fall foliage.
For more information about hikes in the Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay, including duration, elevation, and difficulty levels, check out this handy guide.
In Charlevoix: Climb a Via Ferrata and zipline through the fall foliageView this post on InstagramA post shared by Camille Labonté | Outaouais (@camille_labonte)
Take a deep breath before you step off the roof of the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu and zipline through fall foliage. While you can certainly skip it, the Project Vertical zipline is one of the fastest ways to get to the start of their Via Ferrata. With a cable keeping you safe, helmets, and well-placed rungs, this Via Ferrata is the right challenge for the active adult. Those with a fear of heights should know there are a few sections with a steep drop, but conquering the course will feel that much more rewarding. Then, head directly to the outdoor heated pools of the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu to relax your muscles.
In Charlevoix: Hike around the Parc national des Hautes‑Gorges-de-la-Rivière‑Malbaie
Photo: NicVW/Shutterstock
The rock face that you’ll see as you drive into the Parc national des Hautes‑Gorges-de-la-Rivière‑Malbaie is not only striking, it creates a microclimate within this valley where you’ll find that the fall foliage changes slightly slower than in the surrounding area. The national park is most often visited for the Acropole-des-Draveurs Trail (five to six hours and 6.9 miles round trip), which is a challenging trail with spectacular views but is closed by mid-October. For something shorter, consider the La Chute-du-Ruisseau-Blanc Trail (a 30-minute easy walk) that will take you through magnificent foliage and to a fantastic waterfall.
In the last few years, the park has tested out staying open through winter, offering everything from fat biking and ice skating on the river to self-guided ice climbing.
No matter the season, consider visiting the little exhibition inside the huts on either side of the bridge at the Draveur Visitors Centre to learn more about the wild lives of log drivers.
In Quebec City: Walk on a suspension bridge over a waterfall at Canyon Sainte-Anne
Photo: Kin Fok/Shutterstock
Only 45 minutes outside of Quebec city, the Canyon Sainte-Anne has it all: a kaleidoscope of fall foliage, a rushing waterfall, three bridges that offer different views of the cascade, and the possibility to ride on board a unique zipline that has you flying high over the canyon. Perfect for families or multigenerational groups, the trails to all three bridges (two of which are suspension bridges) are less than two-mile-long with interactive stories and photo-ops along the way. Be sure to visit before the canyon closes for winter.
In Quebec City: Learn more about Quebec’s history on a walking tourQuebec City is the oldest city in North America and, as such, visitors would do well to take the time to learn more about its past. But forget the history books, a walking tour of Old Quebec will do the trick and the Quebec 1608 guide service has many tour options to satisfy all your learning needs.
In Quebec City: Canoe and Hike in Parc national de la Jacques‑Cartier
Photo: Pierre Jean Durieu/Shutterstock
Nature is within arm’s reach with a quick 30-minute drive outside of Quebec City to the Parc national de la Jacques‑Cartier where you can hike, cycle, and paddle among the yellow birch and sugar maples. In fall, consider taking a rabaska canoe ride with a naturalist guide to see the bright colors of the foliage reflected in the Jacques-Cartier river. Alternatively, have a park warden guide you on the Rock Shelters discovery hike to find unusual moss as you scramble through rock crevices. If you prefer to take a self-guided hike, there are multiple trails in the park suitable for all levels.
In Quebec City: Bike Around the Île d’Orléans
Photo: Anne Richard/Shutterstock
Right in the middle of the St. Lawrence River is the Île d’Orléans, an idyllic island seemingly plucked from a rural setting where there are fields, farms, and artisans across six villages, each dotted with 17th-century ancestral homes. Just 30 minutes from Quebec City, across the Pont de l’Île bridge, you can drive around the island by car, which will take about an hour, or consider renting bikes for a guided or self-guided tour of this unexpected oasis.
In Quebec City: Learn about the First Nations people who have always lived hereView this post on InstagramA post shared by Musée huron-wendat (@museehuronwendat)
End your trip to one of the oldest European settlements in North America by visiting and appreciating the people who lived there long before the first boats arrived from the Old Continent. The Musée Huron-Wendat aims to teach the history, culture, and arts of the Huron-Wendat people with a well-laid out museum and hotel. To bring the culture to life, consider doing one of the interactive activities offered, such as a guided tour of the museum, creating a talking stick, or listening to the Huron-Wendat myths and legends while sitting around a small fire in the longhouse.
Where to eat and drink in QuebecIn Côte-Nord: Café Bohème in TadoussacView this post on InstagramA post shared by Le Café Bohème Tadoussac (@cafe_boheme_tadoussac)
It’s good to have a little something in your stomach with time to digest before heading out on your whale-watching excursion. Have an extra early lunch at Café Bohème for seasonal French cuisine in a cozy setting. The mushroom and brie crêpe strikes the perfect balance of salty and sweet with apples, maple caramelized onions, and a poached egg on top. If you’re chilled, get the maple cream black tea, or the homemade sea buckthorn lemonade when temperatures rise.
In Charlevoix: L’Île Mystérieuse in La MalbaieView this post on InstagramA post shared by L'île Mystérieuse (@lile_mysterieuse)
One part restaurant lounge with tapas, one part museum and local artisan shop, and one part submarine bathroom, L’Île Mystérieuse Restaurant and Lounge is a little tricky to categorize. Themed around the works of French author Jules Verne, best known for his work Around the World in 80 Days, the restaurant is delightful and quirky with a dark modern interior and vegetable-filled menu. Opt for the goat cheese and grilled veggie open-faced sandwich for something filling and delicious, or the English Tea service for something scrumptious.
In Charlevoix: Faux Bergers near Baie-Saint-PaulAt Faux Bergers you don’t get to choose what you eat. Instead, the seasons choose for you. With a menu developed seasonally with daily adjustments based on what’s ripening, this seven-course flavor phenomenon with wine pairing is an experience worth fighting for a coveted reservation. The restaurant seats 30 to 36 people nightly, with all tables tasting each course simultaneously after an introduction from the chef. They accommodate dietary restrictions seamlessly.
In Quebec City: Bistro Hortus in Old QuebecView this post on InstagramA post shared by Bistro hortus (@bistro.hortus)
Dietary restriction folks should head straight to Bistro Hortus in Quebec City. With rooftop gardens and beekeeping at each location, you could say they have a roof-to-table approach with plenty of fresh vegetables. The La Poutine Brunch is a hearty twist on the classic Canadian dish, and the vegetarian lasagna is enough to feed two people. Plan to take a long digestive walk afterwards.
In Quebec City: Le Bijou in Old QuebecView this post on InstagramA post shared by Le Bijou (@bijousaloncocktails)
Le Bijou is a recently opened cocktail bar within the fun and funky hotel Monsieur Jean. Le Bijou is very chic and atmospheric with jewel-toned velvet couches, patterned wallpaper, painted ceilings, and an extensive list of specialty cocktails. The Passion Royale is a personal favorite, as are the truffle fries topped with parmesan.
In Quebec City: ARVI in the Limoilou NeighborhoodView this post on InstagramA post shared by ARVI RESTAURANT (@arvi.restaurant)
ARVI offers a five-course tasting menu that adapts to the seasons with a bit of a show. At ARVI, the chefs take center stage, making your meal right before your eyes in the middle of the restaurant. The teamwork is flawless, as is each expertly prepared course from Matsutake mushrooms in a miso-like broth, frothy almond and peas with fir, and melt-in-your-mouth meringue.
Where to stay in QuebecIn Côte-Nord: Hotel TadoussacView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hôtel Tadoussac (@hoteltadoussac)
Although it has been through many renovations in its near-160-year history, the Hotel Tadoussac remains at the center of town with its unmistakable red roof. Stay here for a connection to the long history of Tadoussac, comfortable rooms, and a central location where you can walk to your whale-watching excursion or microbrewery down the street. Or, for quieter activities try to spot whales from the wooden chairs on the front lawn.
In Charlevoix: Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu in La MalbaieView this post on InstagramA post shared by Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu (@fairmontmanoir)
Not technically a castle, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu comes close. Designed in the traditional French chateau style, the property has 405 rooms and suites, four dining options, indoor and outdoor heated pools, and spectacular views of the St. Lawrence River. There are luxurious touches everywhere in this hotel, from the in-room amenities (think plush robes, yoga mat, and Nespresso coffee) to friendly guest services, and a delicious buffet breakfast.
In Charlevoix: Le Germain Hotel & Spa in Baie-Saint-PaulView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hotels Le Germain (@legermainhotels)
On the edge of Baie-Saint-Paul, Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel & Spa is a unique accommodation option. The multiple buildings on the property were designed to replicate farm structures with sleek lines to hold nine types of rooms, from dormitories to suites. The Spa Nordique Le Germain is worth the extra cost for a two-hour session in the hot tubs, dry and wet saunas, and body treatments. Plus, you’ll hear the adorable highland cattle as you sip a hydrating herbal tea from the outdoor hot pool.
In Quebec City: Monsieur Jean Hôtel ParticulierView this post on InstagramA post shared by Monsieur Jean – Hôtel Particulier (@monsieurjeanhotelparticulier)
Monsieur Jean is not one to back away from bold colors and custom-designed furniture, that’s why the rooms at his hotel are spacious and visually exciting. They also feature fully equipped kitchens, and many offer views of Old Town Quebec from the beds, bathtubs, or even toilets. Don’t miss the Instagrammable lobby filled with artworks. 
This Cozy Travel T-Shirt Is Made From Sustainable Wood Pulp
I’m a consummate over-packer when it comes to planning for a trip. Nine times out of 10, I’m probably checking a bag if I’m staying anywhere for more than a couple of days. While it’s not the most convenient way to travel, it’s been the same way for the majority of my adult life. Recently, though, I’ve tried to shed a few extra days’ worth of clothes and find ways to re-wear an outfit here and there. While checking a bag isn’t the most inconvenient thing in the world, I’m finding more and more that the $70 can be better spent on cocktails or a good dinner and less on the four pairs of jeans I (mistakenly) thought I should bring along for a weekend trip to, say, Mexico.
Because of my desire to pare down my wardrobe, I’m looking for brands that not only are neutral enough to pair with anything but also can stand up to a few days between washes. On my hunt, I came across the British brand, Vollebak, and their Wooden T-Shirt. With its sustainable composition, generous cut, and soft feel, I think I found the best shirt for traveling for any season.
We hope you love the Vollebak Wooden T-shirt! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
Vollebak: A brand with a unique story (and even more unique products)
Photo courtesy Vollebak
Vollebak is a British clothing company founded by twin brothers Nick and Steve Tidball in 2015. The brand has gained significant attention for its innovative and boundary-pushing approach to outdoor and adventure apparel, testing the limits of what’s possible in garment engineering with almost hyperbolic promises like the “100 Year Pants” or “Clothes for the Next Century.” By working with an array of engineers, extremophile athletes, and even NASA scientists, Vollebak’s line of clothing is at the intersection of fashion and science in a way that, personally, I’ve never seen done so successfully.
By utilizing engineered garments and naturally derived fabrics, Vollebak is as much a sustainable company as it is a forward-thinking one. The brand partners with a global supply chain that works to create indestructible, timeless pieces that can withstand the impending climate disasters to something less foreboding, like brunch on the weekends. It’s this ability to balance all aspects of one’s life that has made them a brand worth taking on the road and packing in my carry-on as often as possible.
The best travel-friendly t-shirt
Photo courtesy Vollebak
Vollebak offers a few varieties of t-shirts, each made from a surprising fabric. From ceramic to carbon fiber, the range of shirts available shows the ingenuity behind the brand and a sense of real leadership in the adventure-wear space.
I was attracted most to the Wooden T-Shirt for its breathability and comfort, as well as its being made from wood pulp derivative. The black color of the shirt is made from black wood ink, made from wood waste, and printed onto the fabric. Speaking of the fabric, the shirt is extremely comfortable due to the break-down of materials used to create the shirt, including a mixture of 75% lyocell (a cotton alternative made from the cellulose of wood pulp), 19% SeaCell ( a biodegradable clothing fiber that comes from cellulose or tree fibers and organic seaweed), and 6% compostable elastane.
From a fit perspective, it’s roomy without being boxy. I usually opt for a size larger than my normal size with t-shirts, as a personal preference, so that I can get a little air flowing on longer-haul flights and warmer days. The fit of this shirt is perfect for that, while also not too bulky to be layered under a jumper or even a blazer and tucked into trousers. The neutrality of the black shirt also adds to the overall versatility of the garment, meaning I’m not having to pack three shirts when one can do just fine.
Long travel days, sweaty and smoky nightsSo how does the shirt hold up to regular wear while on holiday? Pretty well, I have to say. Being a matte black shirt, it’s easy to hide a bit of sweat or perhaps a spilled drink from a crowded bar when wearing the Wooden T-shirt out at night. It’s also fairly wrinkle-resistant, given the bit of elastane in the fabric, making it easy to throw on after it’s been bunched up in your carry-on for a few hours.
I found that, given its roomy fit, it hangs loosely off the shoulders and torso as well, meaning it isn’t sticking right to your armpits or back, reducing any areas where sweat may cling too much. Most importantly, I found that continued wear doesn’t mean the garment is holding an odor. That’s always my fear when I’m traveling: that I’m going to end up wearing some stale clothes by the end of the week. But, luckily, it seems this wood pulp-derived lyocell has some natural odor resistance, making it easy to wear a few times on a trip without dowsing yourself in cologne to hide any odors.
When compared to merino wool t-shirts or others with the promise of extended wear between washes, the wood pulp derivative seems to put the Vollebak Wooden T-shirt ahead because, as I found, it airs out well, and rather than simply absorbing sweat, it filters it.
Vollebak Wooden T-shirt’s travel upkeep
Photo courtesy Vollebak
While the recommended washing instructions from Vollebak say to wash inside-out at 104 degrees Fahrenheit (40 Celsius), that’s not always feasible on a trip when staying in a hotel. I found that a light rinse under hot water under the arms and around the collar brought the shirt back to life after laying it flat overnight. Alternatively, I’ve had success with steaming the shirt to bring a bit of life to it after it’s gone a bit limp from extended wear. Due to the nature of this shirt and Vollebak’s mission to make sustainable – and durable – garments, I’m not going to baby these clothes too much. And neither should you.
Final thoughts on the Vollebak Wooden T-shirtWhile you may balk at a shirt that costs $125, I think this is a bargain for the amount of cost-per-wear you’re getting out of the Vollebak Wooden T-Shirt. Not only are you getting a totally sustainable garment, but you’re also getting one that’s built to withstand whatever life throws at you, making it a great option for those who have a varied itinerary while on vacation – or maybe even when back home. While I may not be the core demographic that Vollebak markets to (they tend to appeal to adventure-seekers and extreme sports enthusiasts), I can still appreciate the ruggedness and resilience imbued into the brand and how even a simple t-shirt has been elevated to another level.
In Svalbard, Norway, Huskies Are the Key To Winter Happiness
I stood on the back of a dogsled, becoming a musher for the day as I glided across the lonely, chalk-white landscape in near silence, the sled skimming over freshly fallen snow. The six dogs harnessed to the gangline in front of me sprinted with a mesmerizing fervor, surprisingly hushed in their exertion.
Two hours earlier, it had sounded much different. When they were first harnessed and tethered to the sleds, the dogs barked riotously. The sleds were anchored to the snow, and the dogs were jumping in place, tugging at the sled to announce their excitement. But the moment the sleds were free to move, the dogs quieted and began their focused, forward thrust over the ice.
I was on the third of four sleds, each with a passenger and a musher. We were zipping northeast through a valley in Spitsbergen, the main island of Norway’s Svalbard archipelago and home to the planet’s northernmost human settlement. The first sled held our guides, who carried lunches, dogs, and a rifle. The latter is a legal requirement for any group leaving Svalbard’s largest town of Longyearbyen, given the ever-present threat of polar bears.
Photo: Noelle Salmi
I looked to my left, where reindeer scratched at the icy ground with their hooves to uncover wispy, brown grasses on a mountain. It was mid-April, when temperatures are still below freezing and the terrain in every direction is snow covered. But the sun returns in April, staying above horizon for the following four months. It’s a desolate, untamed landscape, a mere 800 miles from the North Pole. And it’s best savored with the aid of energetic dogs.
“In Norway, we have this word that’s called ‘friluftsliv,’ which means ‘life in free air,’” said Audun Salte, who started Svalbard Husky in 2017 with his wife, Mia. “And to us, the non-motorized transportation is so important.”
The beauty of traveling this way comes from more than the absence of a motor, Salte thinks. It’s also the pleasure of having the dogs’ company in an otherwise lonely place.
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“The dogs provide this comfort of being friendly and present and being a support when you’re out there by yourself. And then you share in this bonding,” said Salte. When you have a long way to go on a sled, it can be hard work, but with the dogs, you’re part of a team.”
Dog sledding was the main form of winter travel in the late 19th century, when Svalbard’s first coal mining settlements were established. Most attempts were unsuccessful until the early 20th century, when American businessman John Munroe Longyear established a mining company in the site that would later be named after him: Longyearbyen. After World War II, the archipelago was granted to Norway.
Today, Svalbard depends on tourism as its primary income source. It belongs to Norway, but unlike Norway, is not part of the European Economic Area. That means you need a passport to fly there from Oslo; fortunately, you don’t need a visa. Anyone can live on Svalbard, as long as they have a job and the housing that comes with it. Svalbard is also home to the University Centre, which draws researchers and short-term students from around the world, giving the town a small but vibrant population of young adventurers.
Photo: Philip Holding/Shutterstock
Transplants to Svalbard from the US, Belgium, Sweden, and elsewhere all told me the same thing: they’d intended to visit Svalbard for a few months or a year, but ended up staying, lured by its raw, compelling wildness. For them, even the annual four-month period of darkness had become a welcome facet of life in the far north.
Longyearbyen is home to about 2,400 humans and nearly 1,200 dogs. (Cats are not allowed, given the potential threat to wildlife, including millions of migratory birds.) That’s one dog for every two residents. Many locals adopt dogs when they retire from being used as sled dogs at companies like Svalbard Husky.
One of those transplants is Frida Øverland, who has been in Svalbard for five years and has two dogs: retired sled dog Sever, who she shares with a friend, and three-year-old Frøya, who she adopted as a puppy.
“For a lot of people, having a dog is kind of an essential way to enjoy everything,” she told me during her two-hour walk with her huskies after work. She works for Hurtigruten, where she books Arctic tours for visitors to Svalbard.
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Øverland said her friends all have Alaskan huskies and bring them to their gatherings, indoors or out. She said the activities she and her friends love to do together, like summer hiking and mountain biking or winter sledding and skiing, are better with dogs.
It’s clear they love their dogs as much as you’d expect in a sparsely populated place. Øverland described her huskies as “my entire health, like, mentally, physically, everything. Especially now that it’s turning dark.”
When darkness lingers, Øverland said it can be easy to spend days off in bed watching Netflix. But because she has her huskies, she has to go outside during the day. Øverland joked that she’s gotten so used to going outside in the dead of winter that now, she needs it more than her dogs. “I turned into a human husky,” she said.
Photo: Noelle Salmi
But before you can turn into a human husky, you need to get to know the huskies. Salte of Svalbard Husky said it’s critical that visitors participate in the whole process. When I’d arrived at the dog yard that morning, I’d donned a massive cold-weather suit over my clothes, as well as mittens, boots, and goggles, before going out to meet the dogs. Each one has a private wooden dog house, with their names posted near the door. I greeted Cheesy, Celery, Konjakk, Lotta, Mushroom, and Asti, among many others.
The dogs had been excited to meet me, jumping and resting their paws on my shoulders with such enthusiasm that I was glad for the protection of the thick arctic suit. One pooch even went belly-up on the snowy ground, begging for belly rubs.
Photo: Noelle Salmi
Meeting the dogs is key, said Salte, because they need to feel motivated. “They want to run, but they also need to feel that they do it for a purpose,” he said. “Otherwise, you get what is known as an ‘Alaskan flat tire,’ which means that the dogs sit down and refuse to run.”
Modern Alaskan huskies are a relatively new breed. They were bred in the early 1900s when Indigenous dogs used by local peoples in the upper reaches of North America got friendly with dogs brought over by European settlers, including Siberian huskies, greyhounds, and setters. Salte said wolves were even thought to have been mixed into the breed, although the only wolf characteristic that remains in Alaskan huskies is their appearance. Both wolves and the huskies have long noses and thick coats suited to frigid temperatures.
Given the mash-up of breeds, it’s not surprising that Alaskan huskies’ looks vary. Salte’s dog yard is home to ginger-colored Redneck, raven-hued Varg, and an unforgettable furball named Moose. Unlike most Alaskan huskies who have coarse fur, Moose’s coat was so long and soft that he had to wear protection on his paws when pulling the sled to prevent snow clumps from building up.
Photo: Noelle Salmi
He ran as hard as any one of the other dogs, despite being the only one in cozy blue socks. But he took a different view on napping, choosing to stay awake with us when we arrived at our destination. It was a deep, curving ice cave formed by flowing water through the ice. And in the 30-minute trip to the cavern, the cloudy sky had yielded to a snowstorm, with flakes swirling in every direction while we anchored the sleds and fed the dogs.
While we used our headlamps to descend a ladder into the ice cave, the dogs curled into tight balls, tucked their snouts into their tails, and snoozed, becoming fluffy white mounds under the piling snow. Moose, however, did not lay down, perhaps wanting to keep snowballs from accumulating on his fur. He looked like the dignified leader of the pack. While he sat outside, we followed a narrow passage into a chamber large enough for us to eat lunch and savor hot drinks from insulated mugs.
Photo: Noelle Salmi
The position of each dog on the team changes daily. The rear dogs do the most physical work, but the dogs in front have the psychological task of leading the team. These changes ensure no one dog is burdened with the same tough job every time. The dogs at Svalbard Husky have a schedule, alternating short and long days, and taking every fourth day off in the high season. In summer, they pull wagons and run in the dog yard.
Salte said he wants visitors to respect the dogs that pull them. “When you run these dogs, try to learn something from them,” he said. “Because they’re even though they’re ‘just dogs,’ as people would say, they can teach you a lot.”
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One of the most gratifying sensations for Salte is when he changes the minds of people afraid of dogs. “That means that we have succeeded in getting a relationship between the guest and the dog. And that is the only thing that is important on these trips.”
In fact, the hardest part about the return trip, as the clouds parted and we skimmed over the ice towards the glint of the low-lying sun, was knowing we’d be leaving Moose, Cheesy, Celery, and Lotta.
Fortunately, there are plenty of huskies to spend time with in Svalbard. The next day, I popped into the Husky Cafe, ordered a tea, and then sat down – on the floor, to snuggle with another husky.
Where To Eat in Banff, Canada, To Fuel Up for Outdoor Adventures
Everywhere you look in Banff, the beauty of crystal-clear blue lakes and snow-capped mountains confirms why Canada’s oldest national park is a legend among outdoor destinations. Part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage site, Banff is home to waterfalls and hot springs, ski slopes and hiking trails, historic and cultural sites, and a number of excellent restaurants to keep visitors fueled and satiated between year-round adventures.
Apart from the elk, bears, cougars, deer, moose, wolf, and other wildlife that inhabit Banff National Park, approximately 9,000 people now live in the town of Banff, and another 30,000 or so people visit daily. A boon for visitors, Banff is a walkable mountain escape, and those who stay overnight at Elk + Avenue Hotel are steps away from restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. The hotel itself offers two dining venues that are worthy of a visit, especially if you choose to stay in its contemporary guest rooms, suites, or spacious two-story lofts.
From downtown to the mountaintops, here are five culinary experiences in Banff you won’t want to miss, plus a few outings to plan your meals around.
Where to eat in BanffStart the day at Good Earth CoffeehouseView this post on InstagramA post shared by Good Earth Coffeehouse Banff (@goodearth.banff)
The key to making the most of an outdoor destination like Banff is to make sure your first stop of the day is an energizing one. For many of us, that means starting the day with coffee. Head to Good Earth Coffeehouse first thing in the morning for a cup of ethically sourced roasted coffee or hot tea and a fresh-baked pastry. The coffeehouse is attached to the Elk + Avenue Hotel’s lobby. It also stays open for lunch, serving soup and sandwiches to enjoy in the cozy dining area or to grab and go for a picnic lunch during a hiking adventure.
Good Earth Coffeehouse: 333 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1B1, Canada
Tuck into breakfast or brunch at BluebirdView this post on InstagramA post shared by Bluebird Wood-fired Steakhouse & Patio (@bluebirdbanff)
For heartier fare, walk a couple blocks through the village to the charming Bluebird Wood-fired Steakhouse for souffle pancakes and a classic French omelet. Both pair nicely with a glass of cold-pressed green juice made with apple, kale, spinach, lemon, and celery. This will fortify you before taking an overview tour of Banff on an Open Top Tour.
Step on board a custom 1930s-style open-top touring vehicle for a 90-minute overview of the resort town. Learn about the people who helped make the world-class destination so unique while taking in the beauty of Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain that dominate the skyline.
Bluebird Wood-fired Steakhouse: 214 Lynx St, Banff, AB T1L, Canada
Grab farm-fresh pizza before sightseeingView this post on InstagramA post shared by Farm & Fire (@farmandfirebanff)
For lunch, head to Farm & Fire inside the Elk + Avenue Hotel. The bar makes creative and colorful mocktails and cocktails while Executive Chef Scott Hergott and his team make an array of wood-fired pizzas. Start with a tomato heirloom salad, and be sure to order the fig and brie pizza. Afterward, walk to the end of the main street to the log-built Banff Park Museum.
A National Historic site, the Banff Park Museum is the oldest federal building still standing in any Canadian national park. It’s also a museum of natural history with more than 5,000 specimens and artifacts. Beyond the museum is the Bow River Trail walking and biking pathway. Cross over one of the bridges to walk around the historic Brett Sanatorium and Hotel, built in the 1880s. When it burned down in 1930, the site was converted into a Parks Canada administrative building and 12-acre Cascade Gardens, with ponds, waterfalls, walking trails, and seasonal flora and fauna. Best of all, it’s free of charge year-round.
Farm & Fire: 333 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1B1, Canada
Experience immersive dining at BrazenView this post on InstagramA post shared by Brazen Banff (@brazenbanff)
In the center of town at the historic Mount Royal Hotel is a lively restaurant called Brazen that offers an immersive dining experience. Start with a little showmanship by ordering the Garden Party cocktail, which is a light purple tea-infused beverage that arrives in a teapot and is poured into a glass at the table. Pair it with starters such as ramen eggs with nori and wasabi peas, bite-sized salmon gravlax on a beet chip, duck croquettes served with truffle dijon aioli, and seared tuna with tomato chutney on crunchy crostini.
Brazen’s Chef Dan Jiricka wows even the most discerning eaters with the creative flair he adds to classic dishes — sometimes even literally, as is the case with the flaming ginger certified Angus beef that’s set on fire in a skillet tableside. The flickering orange flames blister the shishitos served with the beef. Chef Jiricka also makes a crispy chicken served with harissa sour cream and chili honey that’s a shareable table favorite. For dessert, save room for the coffee-flavored creme brûlée or the Strawberry Fields dessert, made with an edible shell, coconut cream, strawberry sorbet, mint, and a strawberry rhubarb compote.
Brazen: 138 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1A7, Canada
Ride the gondola to a dreamy dinner or drinksView this post on InstagramA post shared by Sky Bistro (@skybistrobanff)
Take the Banff Gondola up to the summit of Sulphur Mountain for the most breathtaking alpine scenery. This is Banff’s top-rated attraction, soaring 2,292 feet high on a picturesque eight-minute ride. There’s no other place in town for sweeping views of six mountain ranges, plus a bird’s-eye view of Bow River and Bow Valley. For those who have the time, you can also hike along switchback trails to the top of Sulphur Mountain. It takes about one to two hours depending on one’s fitness and hiking ability.
Once at the top, there are observation decks and a boardwalk along the rim to take in 360-degree views. Around sunset, order a beet juice martini at the Sky Bistro bar. Stay for a round of drinks or sit at a window table for a full dinner while the sun disappears and stars begin to illuminate the sky. Sky Bistro’s menu features regionally sourced local meats and produce prepared by Executive Chef Claudius Wolf. Wine expert and sommelier Dhira Roy is happy to provide Canadian and International wine recommendations throughout the meal. Pair the strawberry salad with a glass of Tawse 2015 Chardonnay made in the Niagara Peninsula.
Sky Bistro: 100 Mountain Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1J3, Canada
How to get to BanffPhoto: SurangaLK/Shutterstock
The easiest way to get to Banff is to fly into Calgary International Airport, the largest airport in Alberta, Canada. From Los Angeles, the flight is 3.5 hours on several major airlines, including Alaska Airlines, WestJet, AirCanada, United Airlines and Delta Airlines.
The Brewster Express is located at Calgary International Airport and offers multiple daily shuttle services to Banff. Its luxury buses drive along the Trans-Canada Highway on a scenic 1.5-hour journey. Once in Banff, the bus stops at different lodges in town, including the Elk + Avenue Hotel. This is an ideal home base for a Banff culinary adventure.
How To Find Which Thanksgiving Foods Won’t Make It Past Airport Security
As Thanksgiving approaches, the TSA prepares for the many people traveling to visit their loved ones. For this year’s Thanksgiving travel, TSA expects to screen more than 30 million passengers during the 12-day Thanksgiving period (the most ever), which starts Friday, November 17 and ends Tuesday, November 28. During this year’s 12-day Thanksgiving period, the three busiest days in those 12 days are the Tuesday and Wednesday before Thanksgiving and the Sunday after Thanksgiving, and on and in between those days, TSA is anticipating that many passengers will bring many Thanksgiving dishes and leftovers.
Before you try to bring that apple pie, homemade cranberry sauce, or turkey stuffing on board, there are some key things to know about the food that you can and can’t bring through the TSA checkpoint before you pack that bag of yours. Most foods can be transported through TSA checkpoints, but some foods are required to go into your checked bag. Most of those fall into the “liquid” category and are limited by size.
For anything larger than 3.4 ounces and, according to TSA, anything that can be spilled, sprayed, pumped, poured, or spread is best put in your checked luggage. Foods going through TSA checkpoint will need additional screening, so if you carry any solid foods through those items, they should be placed in an area with easy access so you can put them in the bin at the TSA checkpoint.
When it comes to international travel, different rules apply when bringing in food, but if you’re traveling within the states and have that one unique dish you’re not quite sure about, you can download the free TSA app that has a “what can I bring” feature or ask Twitter or Facebook messenger at @AskTSA.
As a primer, here’s what you need to know.
Thanksgiving foods you can take through airport securityBaked goods: Homemade or store-bought pies, cakes, cookies, brownies and other sweet treatsMeats: Turkey, chicken, ham, steak (frozen, cooked or uncooked)Stuffing: Cooked, uncooked, in a box or in a bagCasseroles: Traditional green beans and onion straws, or something more excitingMac ‘n Cheese: Cooked in a pan or traveling with the ingredients to cook it at your destinationFresh vegetables: Potatoes, yams, broccoli, green beans, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, radishes, carrots, squash, greens Fresh fruit: Apples, pears, pineapple, lemons, limes, cranberries, blueberries, strawberries, bananas, kiwi CandySpicesThanksgiving foods you can’t take through airport securityCranberry sauce: Homemade or canned are spreadable, so check themGravy: Homemade or in a jar/canWine, champagne, sparking apple ciderCanned fruit or vegetables: It’s got liquid in the can, so check themPreserves, jams and jellies: They are spreadable, so best to check themMaple syrupMore like thisAirports + FlyingAll of the Food You Can’t Take Through Airport SecurityTraveling To the Paris Olympics With Your Partner? Book These Romantic Airbnbs
Paris is the global capital of romance but the 2024 Olympics and Paralympic Games bring yet another reason to summer in the City of Lights. The Games is that rare sporting event that works its magic on all kinds of travelers and adds a unique twist to a vacation. In addition to the Olympic Village in the suburb of Seine-Saint-Denis, major landmarks including the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, and Place de la Concorde will be transformed into venues. Pencil in a date night at one of these romantic Airbnbs close to the Paris Olympic sites.
Heading to Paris for the Olympics? Here’s our rundown of everywhere to stay in the city: Budget-Friendly Airbnbs for the Paris Olympics The Top Airbnbs Near Paris’ Olympic Stadiums and Event Centers Top large group Airbnbs for the Paris Olympics
We hope you love these romantic Airbnbs for the Paris Olympics! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
5-star Airbnb with Eiffel Tower views
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThe Paris Games aren’t restricted to the grandstand. In the middle of the 7th arrondissement, this dreamy apartment rental is decorated in an elegant French style with designer furnishings. The private terrace reveals the Iron Lady herself where wrestling, volleyball, and wheelchair rugby will take place in the temporary arena. An elevator and air-conditioning are two rare luxuries that you’ll appreciate in summer.
Three guests, one bedroom
Price: $919 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosAfter holding your breath at the poolside, plunge into your own Jacuzzi at this boutique Airbnb for couples close to the Paris Olympic Village. The bed is wrapped in satin sheets where you can watch the Games cocooned in your own home cinema. Breakfast is on the house and there’s a simple kitchenette for light meal prep. The Saint-Denis RER and metro station is minutes away and the riverside is right there for handheld strolls.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $391 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosGo off-piste and stay at this gorgeous houseboat Airbnb in Paris. The location is handy for getting to the central attractions and venues as well as the mythical Parc des Prince and Roland Garros. Comprising a richly decorated bedroom and a full kitchen, there’s also a peaceful deck where a hot tub awaits you. The host couple live on an adjacent boat and are happy to arrange river chauffeurs and on-board chefs.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $437 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosTravel back in time at this charming apartment styled according to Old Paris décor with high ceilings, paneled walls, and velvet drapes. The rental is shockingly large with an open-concept kitchen and lounge connecting to a grandiose bedroom and spa-like bathroom. There are two TVs for keeping track of the Games and the Le Marais location is perfect for getting around the sights and sportsgrounds.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $565 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis high-floor Paris Airbnb sits in a prime spot between the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower and grants landmark views from all windows. The marble bathroom contains a soaking tub for two while the projector screen means you can spectate on the Games in comfort. Your kindly hosts have been known to drop off bread and pastry treats fresh from the boulangerie.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $633 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosFeast on epic views of the City of Light in this 12th-floor luxury loft where the Eiffel Tower stands at arm’s length. The hot tub is craftily positioned by the terrace so you can savor the scenery over a soak. Pop art and splashes of color keep the interiors modern and fresh. The 7th arrondissement setting means you can walk to such contests as volleyball, triathlon, breaking, and archery.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $380 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis compact loft is gloriously turned out with whitewashed walls and regal velvet furnishings. The tiled bathroom contains a corner hot tub while the kitchen is surprisingly well-stocked with appliances considering the space. A zip code on the Champs-Élysées makes getting around the Olympic venues and cultural sights a doddle. It’s not unusual to find a complimentary bottle of Champagne upon arrival.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $195 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis attractive Airbnb in the 17th arrondissement of Paris is near the Argentine metro station. That’s a mere half an hour to Stade de France or Parc des Prince and an easy transfer from Charles de Gaulle or Versailles. The apartment features a state-of-the-art kitchen and a Smart TV. As the location is far from the hustle and bustle, you’ll enjoy mellow evenings unwinding in the spa.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $327 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosHistoric and fashionable Le Marais is flooded with grand facades, al fresco bistros, and quirky museums. Featuring sky-high ceilings and portes-fenêtres, the apartment is lodged within an 18th-century mansion. It has all you need to cook plus the luxury of a bathroom each. The location is handy for catching the start of the marathon at Hôtel de Ville and basketball at Bercy but the metro will take you anywhere.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $353 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosRecharge your batteries at this splendid Airbnb near Gare du Nord – the destination for travelers coming from Northern France, England, and Western Europe. Situated on one of the oldest streets in Paris, this is a time capsule home appointed with rosewood fixtures, a walnut Louis XVI bed, and a clawfoot tub. A functional kitchen is squirreled away out of sight while the salon windows peer over the botanical Square du Temple.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $454 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThe village of Montmartre is the epicenter of love and romance in Paris – provided you can make it up the hill without squabbling. After weaving through the windy streets, take in the views over wine on the terrace where the Eiffel Tower looms on the horizon. The apartment itself is cozy and homely with heaps of cafes and bakeries nearby and stress-free transport links to all Olympic venues.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $289 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis bijou studio with a lush courtyard is the passion project of a local creative who has recreated 1900s Paris from flea market hauls and strategic auction bids. A homage to Nabi artists and Oriental styling, the apartment is accented by crane murals and features a traditional brass bed. The kitchenware is pretty limited – don’t panic, there’s a coffee machine – but the host offers breakfast upon request.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $210 per night
Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement is the natural base for a couple’s getaway in Paris. This neighborhood is brimming with patisseries, cafes, and quaint cobblestone squares as well as pockets of nightlife. When choosing where to stay in Paris for the 2024 Summer Olympics and Paralympic Games, this area is also convenient for the central venues. Stade de France, Parc des Princes, and Versaille are easily accessible via the Paris Metro although all journeys will need additional time.
Choosing an Airbnb with a view of the Eiffel Tower will skyrocket your romantic stay in the capital. These properties are usually located around the Champ de Mars or on the Right Bank near the Trocadéro where various Olympic and Paralympic events will occur. Le Marais is another central quarter accessible to the venues and with a lively dining and nightlife scene that appeals to couples.
Traveling the Paris Olympics With Your Partner? Book These Romantic Airbnbs
Paris is the global capital of romance but the 2024 Olympics and Paralympic Games bring yet another reason to summer in the City of Lights. The Games is that rare sporting event that works its magic on all kinds of travelers and adds a unique twist to a vacation. In addition to the Olympic Village in the suburb of Seine-Saint-Denis, major landmarks including the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, and Place de la Concorde will be transformed into venues. Pencil in a date night at one of these romantic Airbnbs close to the Paris Olympic sites.
We hope you love these romantic Airbnbs for the Paris Olympics! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
5-star Airbnb with Eiffel Tower viewsPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThe Paris Games aren’t restricted to the grandstand. In the middle of the 7th arrondissement, this dreamy apartment rental is decorated in an elegant French style with designer furnishings. The private terrace reveals the Iron Lady herself where wrestling, volleyball, and wheelchair rugby will take place in the temporary arena. An elevator and air-conditioning are two rare luxuries that you’ll appreciate in summer.
Three guests, one bedroom
Price: $919 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosAfter holding your breath at the poolside, plunge into your own Jacuzzi at this boutique Airbnb for couples close to the Paris Olympic Village. The bed is wrapped in satin sheets where you can watch the Games cocooned in your own home cinema. Breakfast is on the house and there’s a simple kitchenette for light meal prep. The Saint-Denis RER and metro station is minutes away and the riverside is right there for handheld strolls.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $391 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosGo off-piste and stay at this gorgeous houseboat Airbnb in Paris. The location is handy for getting to the central attractions and venues as well as the mythical Parc des Prince and Roland Garros. Comprising a richly decorated bedroom and a full kitchen, there’s also a peaceful deck where a hot tub awaits you. The host couple live on an adjacent boat and are happy to arrange river chauffeurs and on-board chefs.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $437 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosTravel back in time at this charming apartment styled according to Old Paris décor with high ceilings, paneled walls, and velvet drapes. The rental is shockingly large with an open-concept kitchen and lounge connecting to a grandiose bedroom and spa-like bathroom. There are two TVs for keeping track of the Games and the Le Marais location is perfect for getting around the sights and sportsgrounds.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $565 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThis high-floor Paris Airbnb sits in a prime spot between the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower and grants landmark views from all windows. The marble bathroom contains a soaking tub for two while the projector screen means you can spectate on the Games in comfort. Your kindly hosts have been known to drop off bread and pastry treats fresh from the boulangerie.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $633 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosFeast on epic views of the City of Light in this 12th-floor luxury loft where the Eiffel Tower stands at arm’s length. The hot tub is craftily positioned by the terrace so you can savor the scenery over a soak. Pop art and splashes of color keep the interiors modern and fresh. The 7th arrondissement setting means you can walk to such contests as volleyball, triathlon, breaking, and archery.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $380 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThis compact loft is gloriously turned out with whitewashed walls and regal velvet furnishings. The tiled bathroom contains a corner hot tub while the kitchen is surprisingly well-stocked with appliances considering the space. A zip code on the Champs-Élysées makes getting around the Olympic venues and cultural sights a doddle. It’s not unusual to find a complimentary bottle of Champagne upon arrival.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $195 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThis attractive Airbnb in the 17th arrondissement of Paris is near the Argentine metro station. That’s a mere half an hour to Stade de France or Parc des Prince and an easy transfer from Charles de Gaulle or Versailles. The apartment features a state-of-the-art kitchen and a Smart TV. As the location is far from the hustle and bustle, you’ll enjoy mellow evenings unwinding in the spa.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $327 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosHistoric and fashionable Le Marais is flooded with grand facades, al fresco bistros, and quirky museums. Featuring sky-high ceilings and portes-fenêtres, the apartment is lodged within an 18th-century mansion. It has all you need to cook plus the luxury of a bathroom each. The location is handy for catching the start of the marathon at Hôtel de Ville and basketball at Bercy but the metro will take you anywhere.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $353 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosRecharge your batteries at this splendid Airbnb near Gare du Nord – the destination for travelers coming from Northern France, England, and Western Europe. Situated on one of the oldest streets in Paris, this is a time capsule home appointed with rosewood fixtures, a walnut Louis XVI bed, and a clawfoot tub. A functional kitchen is squirreled away out of sight while the salon windows peer over the botanical Square du Temple.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $454 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThe village of Montmartre is the epicenter of love and romance in Paris – provided you can make it up the hill without squabbling. After weaving through the windy streets, take in the views over wine on the terrace where the Eiffel Tower looms on the horizon. The apartment itself is cozy and homely with heaps of cafes and bakeries nearby and stress-free transport links to all Olympic venues.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $289 per night
Photo: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbPhoto: AirbnbSee more photosThis bijou studio with a lush courtyard is the passion project of a local creative who has recreated 1900s Paris from flea market hauls and strategic auction bids. A homage to Nabi artists and Oriental styling, the apartment is accented by crane murals and features a traditional brass bed. The kitchenware is pretty limited – don’t panic, there’s a coffee machine – but the host offers breakfast upon request.
Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $210 per night
Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement is the natural base for a couple’s getaway in Paris. This neighborhood is brimming with patisseries, cafes, and quaint cobblestone squares as well as pockets of nightlife. When choosing where to stay in Paris for the 2024 Summer Olympics and Paralympic Games, this area is also convenient for the central venues. Stade de France, Parc des Princes, and Versaille are easily accessible via the Paris Metro although all journeys will need additional time.
Choosing an Airbnb with a view of the Eiffel Tower will skyrocket your romantic stay in the capital. These properties are usually located around the Champ de Mars or on the Right Bank near the Trocadéro where various Olympic and Paralympic events will occur. Le Marais is another central quarter accessible to the venues and with a lively dining and nightlife scene that appeals to couples.
November 15, 2023
Your Guide To Indianapolis, the Midwest Capital You Need To Visit
In a city synonymous with auto racing, basketball, and corn fields, you expect a lot of sports bars, chain hotels, and a perfectly flat landscape. What you don’t expect — and what Indianapolis delivers, in a big way — is James Beard-awarded restaurants, world-class boutique hotels, and hundreds of miles of urban trails.
With Indianapolis in the path of totality for the April 2024 solar eclipse and set to host next year’s NBA All-Star Game, first- and second-round March Madness games, three nights of Taylor Swift, and its signature Indy 500, there’s never been a better time to plan your visit Indiana’s capital city. Here’s where to play, eat, and stay when you come to experience the most fun things to do in Indianapolis.
The best things to do in IndianapolisIndianapolis Motor Speedway
Photo: Grindstone Media Group/Shutterstock
It’s no secret that Indy’s history and identity are closely tied to auto racing. In fact, the city is widely known as the “Racing Capital of the World,” attracting hundreds of thousands of race fans each year. The world-renowned Indianapolis Motor Speedway (IMS) hosts the annual Indy 500 and Brickyard Weekend races, plus a host of qualifiers and other events. One particularly notable race is the Indy Autonomous Challenge, the only one in the world dedicated to fully autonomous vehicles.
Even when there’s not a race going on, there’s plenty to do at IMS. Book a variety of tours, including the popular “Kiss the Bricks” tour. This option takes you on a lap around the storied oval and gives you the opportunity to kiss the iconic antique bricks at the start/finish line, a tradition race winners have proudly carried on since 1996. You can also book an IndyCar experience to drive or ride in a real Indy car. The onsite Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum is well worth a visit, with race cars and artifacts, plus interactive exhibits such as race simulators and a pit stop challenge. Note that the museum closed for extensive renovations in October 2023 and is expected to reopen in April 2025. Finally, you can golf at Brickyard Crossing, which partially lies within the oval.
Indianapolis Motor Speedway: 4790 W 16th St, Indianapolis, IN 46222
Bottleworks District
Photo: Joe Skibinski/Shutterstock
One of four original “diagonals” the city was designed around, this beautifully restored historic district is one of Indy’s hottest destinations. The Coca-Cola Bottling Company of Indianapolis, the largest Coke bottling plant in the world for 20 years, once occupied the Art Deco buildings and cobblestone streets. Today, it’s home to wildly popular food hall The Garage, a variety of bustling entertainment venues, the stunning Bottleworks Hotel, and several shops. Catch a movie in The Living Room, get a haircut or spa treatment, enjoy old-school duckpin bowling and 40-plus pinball machines at Pins Mechanical Co., or sample everything from lobster rolls to Venezuelan arepas and cubanos.
Bottleworks District: 850 Massachusetts Ave Suite #190, Indianapolis, IN 46202
Indianapolis Cultural Trail
Photo: KYPhua/Shutterstock
The Cultural Trail is an eight-mile network of multi-use paths running right through the heart of Indianapolis. Over the next two years, major expansions will add an additional four miles. Walk, run, or bike some or all of the trail, which connects downtown’s six distinct cultural districts and many local hotspots. These include the Downtown Canal Walk, Lucas Oil Stadium (home of the Colts), the convention center, dozens of historic sites, and the Colts Canal Playspace, the city’s largest playground. If you don’t have your own wheels, the Pacers Bikeshare program has over 500 bicycles at 50 stations, many of them along the Cultural Trail. Bikes are available 24 hours a day, and rides start at $1. There are even adaptive three-wheel bikes available for folks with mobility challenges, and e-bikes will be available in 2024.
Indianapolis Cultural Trail: 850 Massachusetts Ave Suite #190, Indianapolis, IN 46202
White River State Park
Photo: Rachael Martin/Shutterstock
The poster child of what an urban park should be, White River State Park sits right in the city along its namesake river. It has quintessential park elements, such as open green spaces, trails, and playgrounds, but it’s also home to some of Indy’s biggest attractions. The Indianapolis Zoo, NCAA Hall of Champions, Indiana State Museum, and Eiteljorg Museum all call the state park home. You’ll also find the city’s AAA baseball team, the Indianapolis Indians, here, along with a state-of-the-art amphitheater for concerts.
White River State Park: 801 W Washington St, Indianapolis, IN 46204
Newfields
Photo: Chad Kelham/Shutterstock
Self-described as “a place for nature & the arts,” Newfields is equal parts botanical garden, historic estate, and art museum. The campus houses the Indianapolis Museum of Art, one of the oldest and largest in the country. You can also explore elaborate gardens and greenhouses, rotating art installations, and walking trails. Catch a live performance, then grab a bite in the cafe—or a brew in the beer garden. If you can time your visit right, don’t miss the jaw-dropping Harvest Nights, Winterlights, or THE LUME, seasonal events that include a variety of immersive sensory experiences and themed food and drinks.
Newfields: 4000 N Michigan Rd, Indianapolis, IN 46208
Day trip to Parke County
Photo: Jeff Lossau/Shutterstock
Just over an hour from downtown Indianapolis, Parke County is home to bucolic rural scenery, some of the country’s best state parks, and 31 historic covered bridges — hence why it’s known as the “Covered Bridge Capital of the World.” Attend one of the annual festivals, like the Parke County Covered Bridge Festival in the fall or the maple fair in the spring.
Where to Eat and Drink in IndyLiveryView this post on InstagramA post shared by Livery (@livery.restaurant)
A hip Latin American restaurant within walking distance of the Bottleworks District, Liver has one of those menus that’ll make you want to try everything. Seriously. Order several small plates to share, and definitely don’t miss the cauliflower (promise, it’s different from any other one you’ve tried), street corn, skirt steak. Try to resist the urge to eat the chimichurri sauce by the spoonful.
Livery: 720 N College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46202
BluebeardView this post on InstagramA post shared by Bluebeard | Indy Restaurant (@bluebeardindy)
It can be tricky snagging a seat at this trendy, always-bustling restaurant (no reservations accepted), but it’s worth the wait. It’s contemporary, farm-to-table, and a James Beard semifinalist, so expect adventurous twists on classics. The menu changes daily, but there’s always an iteration of the grilled bread app and chop salad. If you’re side-eyeing “grilled bread” in a top-notch restaurant, know that Bluebeard also runs the adjacent bakery, Amelia’s.
Bluebeard: 653 Virginia Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46203
Leviathan BakehouseView this post on InstagramA post shared by Leviathan Bakehouse (@leviathanbakehouse)
A fairly standard-looking coffee shop, Leviathan is anything but. The food is “local-meets-global,” and everything is baked in house. You’ll recognize old standbys on the menu, but take a chance on something new, like the honey pistachio latte. Throw your calorie count out the window, because the scratch-made pastries are to die for. Try a seasonal hand pie or the quiche du jour, and take a slice of the Basque cheesecake to go.
Leviathan Bakehouse: 1101 N College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46202
St. Joseph Brewery & Public HouseView this post on InstagramA post shared by Saint Joseph Brewery (@saintjosephbrewery)
Occupying a Catholic church built in 1880, this is easily one of the most unique spots to grab a beer in Indianapolis. The striking Gothic-style building dominates this stretch of College Ave., setting the perfect scene for a casual meal. It’s mostly pub fare, but it’s very well-executed, and the award-winning beer list is extensive. Try a flight, which gets you four 5-ounce pours of any house or seasonal beers for just $9.00.
St. Joseph Brewery & Public House: 540 N College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46202
Where to Stay in IndianapolisBottleworks HotelView this post on InstagramA post shared by Bottleworks Hotel (@bottleworkshotel)
As its name implies, the Bottleworks Hotel was also a Coke bottling plant. A stunning reflection of the Roaring Twenties, the building featured unique Art Deco architecture and cutting-edge equipment when it opened in the 1930s. Today, walking in feels like you’re stepping into an exclusive party during Prohibition. The luxe interior is filled with bold artwork and rich jewel tones, and the hotel’s original floors still shine. In the guest rooms, marble bathrooms, exposed brick, ultra-thick robes, and velvet sofas make you feel like you’re indulging in a secret guilty pleasure.
Downstairs, grab a picture-perfect, old-school cocktail at the speakeasy-esque Sundry and Vice. If you’re hungry, slip into a velvet booth and treat yourself to a steak at The Fountain Room. Cap off your evening with a selfie in the vintage photo booth or a round of pool. Of course, you can also walk across the street to The Garage or Pins.
Bottleworks Hotel: 850 Massachusetts Ave Suite 100, Indianapolis, IN 46204
How to get there
Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock
Indianapolis has a major international airport, and as a huge bonus, it’s frequently named one of the best in America. The city is also within easy driving distance of several major cities. It’s fewer than two hours from Louisville; just 2.5 from Columbus, Ohio; three hours from Chicago; 3.5 from St. Louis; and 4.5 from Detroit, Milwaukee, and Nashville. It really is the “Crossroads of America.”
Getting around Indianapolis
Photo: JustPixs/Shutterstock
As a major city with a relatively compact layout, it’s very easy to get around Indy. The downtown area, in particular, is extremely walkable, largely thanks to the Cultural Trail. There’s also the Pacers Bikeshare program for those who prefer to travel on two wheels. Rideshares and public transportation, including IndyGo buses and taxis, are also widely available.
Life Is Easy on the Go With These Lightweight Packing Cubes
To say travelers are obsessed with packing cubes is an understatement. And for good reason: when you’re always on the go, packing as light as you can while making sure you have everything you need is necessary whether you’re a jet-setter across the globe or a weekend warrior. As a travel writer, I am always on the go, and I don’t like carrying a lot of luggage. I like to travel as light and as efficiently as I can. People always ask, “How do you travel for weeks with just a backpack in tow?” My answer: packing cubes and in particular, the Eagle Creek Pack-it Isolate Compression Packing Cubes.
We hope you love the Eagle Creek Pack-it Isolate Compression Packing Cubes! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
What I love about the Eagle Creek Pack-it Isolate Compression Packing Cubes
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Instantly, one of my favorite features of these packing cubes is how lightweight they are. Weighing in at 1.9 ounces for both the “small” and “medium” set, I don’t have to worry about adding any substantial extra weight to my luggage. But don’t let the lightweight fabric fool you, the water-resistant material is made of silnylon ripstop — a material known for its durability and improved tear strength. Even if you get a small rip, the diamond ripstop pattern should stop it from getting too big.
I also loved the simplicity of the design. The easy-to-use cubes open clamshell-style with the top flap easily “flapping” to one side for quick access to your things. There are two paracord zippers, allowing for a good grip to close the cubes, especially when full. Even the way the zippers are angled saves you space as the top flap of fabric doesn’t have any dimensions. Plus, the easy-to-grab top handle allows for easy handling and hanging options when drawer or countertop space isn’t available.
The Eagle Creek Pack-it Isolate Compression Packing Cubes make it easy to maximize your space
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Packing efficiently is all about maximizing your space, and the cubes’ ability to compress is what sold me. The strong compression zipper is used to compress the cubes, helping to free up more room in your luggage by removing the extra air inside. I did find it helpful to have a little pull tab located next to the compression zipper to use for extra leverage when closing and compressing. And if you don’t need that extra space, you can zip the cubes back down, allowing for more versatility in sizes.
What I packed in my packing cubesI typically use my packing cubes to hold smaller items such as my underwear, socks, bras, t-shirts, shorts, swimsuits, etc. Plus, anything I want easy access to like my charging cords, Advil, or headphones. This packing cube set ($39.99) comes with a small (6L) and medium (13L) size cube, which are conveniently indicated on the handles with size tabs. In the small packing cube, I was able to pack my bathing suit, three pairs of ankle socks, eight pairs of underwear, and two sports bras. In the medium packing cube, I packed two pairs of leggings, one sweatshirt, a pair of shorts, a pair of lounge pants, two t-shirts, and a tank top. I like to roll my clothes when packing to save space and I found it super easy to roll up my items into the flexible packing cubes.
Start packing with the cubes uncompressed and you’ll soon realize how much you can fit in there. Then when you close with the compression zipper, watch as the cubes shrink down to an incredibly small size. I tested the cubes to the max and even when fully packed, all it took was a little push to close with the compression zipper.
Another reason why I love packing cubes is that they are a great place to put your dirty clothes when returning from your trip. I use the medium-sized cube for my dirty clothes and love the fact that they are designed to block moisture and odors.
How Eagle Creek packing cubes compare to others
Photo: Jessica Hughes
The only other brand of packing cubes I have used were the eBags packing cubes. The biggest difference I saw is the lightweight material Eagle Creek used. While most packing cubes compress now, I have found it hard to find something as durable and lightweight as Eagle Creek’s packing cubes.
For me, there were only two minor downsides: the slickness of the fabric and the lack of a paracord zipper for the compressor zipper. While the material is great, it is a bit slick, which I found sometimes annoying when I set the cubes down or when I tried to stack them on top of each other. In terms of the zipper, it would have been nice to see a paracord zipper used for the compressor zipper. Not to say this made it difficult to close the cubes but a little extra help would have been nice.
A Brand New Luxury Resort Just Opened on ‘America’s Best Beach’
Famous for its clear waters and powder-soft sand, Clearwater Beach, Florida, is consistently voted as one of America’s best beaches. Some have even called it the best beach in the US. With everything from mini golf and beach bars to five-star dining, it’s a destination that’s popular with families, groups, and multi-generational travelers. It’s also the site of Marriott’s newest luxury resort, the JW Marriott Clearwater Beach. A recent stay confirmed everything I’d heard about this vibrant beach town: the sand is indeed baby soft, the water is crystal clear, and Clearwater Beach has entered a new era of luxury travel.
Located within walking distance to the area’s most popular attractions, the JW Marriott Clearwater Beach occupies a secluded stretch of shore that feels miles away from the town’s bustling tourist spots. With three restaurants, a full-service spa, a fitness center, and 20,000 square feet of event space, the resort is a self-contained destination for travelers seeking a luxury beach getaway. Yet with only 162 guest rooms and 36 residences, the property retains an intimate feel that’s anchored by its warmth and personalized service.
A seven-year vision come to life, with family-friendly rooms and residences
Photo: JW Marriott Clearwater Beach
The JW Marriott Clearwater Beach was first conceived of seven years ago and took three years to build. It’s the first JW Marriott property to be designed and built from the ground up. Local developer and physician Dr. Kiran C. Patel and his firm, Vision Makers, collaborated with a team of architects and designers to bring the $200 million project to life. After a few setbacks during the pandemic, the resort opened its doors on May 1, 2023, and has quickly become the hotel of choice for luxury travelers in the area.
“We have become a haven for couples, families, girls’ getaways, guys’ fishing and golf retreats, and honeymoons or babymoons,” says Mike Manzari, the resort’s general manager.
The hotel knows its audience and has smartly tapped into Clearwater Beach’s reputation as a family-friendly spot by incorporating six floors of residence-style accommodations that are ideal for multi-generational travelers. A particularly great choice for groups, the residences come equipped with kitchens, living and dining areas, and expansive balcony space. Though privately owned, the one- to three-bedroom residences can be rented through the hotel and provide guests with full access to resort amenities.
While touring the residences, Manzari shared the resort’s aim: to capture a new standard of luxury for Clearwater Beach while also applying the unique formula of personalized service and comfortable opulence for which JW Marriott properties are known.
“Our exceptional accommodations are designed to make guests feel like they’ve found a home away from home, but it’s our exceptional service that has brought our vision to life and created loyalty amongst our JW travelers,” he says.
Photo: Katie Riley
The hotel’s residences stand out in a beach town full of condos and timeshares, but the JW Marriott’s hotel rooms are the most spacious and well-appointed in town. Guest rooms feature a soothing blend of neutral colors, natural elements, and woven textures that evoke a sense of natural, coastal luxury. Thoughtful details such as Art Deco-inspired lighting, Nespresso bars, touchscreen controls, and wall-mounted 55-inch flatscreen TVs also grace every room. The floor-to-ceiling windows and large balconies, complete with comfortable seating, keep the focus on the expansive views of Sand Key and the Gulf of Mexico.
The resort’s public spaces also exude an understated coastal vibe, starting in the lobby. There, sculptures of seagrass and waves by local artists Carrie Jadus and Mark Aeling set a serene tone. The resort’s stretch of shore isn’t the biggest in town, but its secluded location on the southern end of Clearwater Beach provides an incredibly peaceful setting. Every guest has access to two complimentary beach loungers, and service at the beach is friendly and attentive. The 11th floor rooftop pool deck showcases 360-degree views of Sand Key and the Gulf of Mexico, making it the perfect spot to take a dip or watch one of the Gulf’s legendary sunsets.
Things to do at JW Marriott Clearwater Beach for travelers of all ages
Photo: JW Marriott Clearwater Beach
In keeping with its commitment to being a getaway for travelers of all types and ages, the JW Marriott Clearwater Beach has a variety of activities and amenities suited to both children and adults. The JW Kids Club, named the Hideaway Hangout, is a bright and open space for kids to engage in crafts, story time, games, and other activities on site. Morning and afternoon sessions feature a rotating schedule of programming, much of it focused on the area’s marine life.
For those seeking relaxation, perhaps while their kids are at the Hideaway Hangout, The Spa by JW offers a full-service menu of treatments in a soothing, minimalist environment. The locker facilities include a sauna, a steam room, and an experiential shower. While I wish the relaxation lounge had been more spacious so I could have lingered longer, I received one of the best massages of my life at the spa from a provider named Brandi.
Elsewhere, the resort’s spacious 24-hour fitness center has state-of-the-art cardio equipment, free weights, and daily fitness classes, including programs such as beach yoga that allow guests to enjoy their daily activity in the fresh air. Complimentary bikes are also available for guests to use.
Dining at JW Marriott Clearwater Beach
Photo: JW Marriott Clearwater Beach
Dining at JW Marriott Clearwater Beach is a sophisticated experience that goes way beyond your average casual beach fare. The culinary program is led by Chef Inder Suryawanshi, who came to the property from the JW Marriott Marco Island, and Sous Chef Soumi Hazra, this year’s winner of Marriott International’s prestigious Master of the Craft culinary competition. Both chefs bring a level of expertise to the kitchen that elevates the resort’s three restaurants, all of which serve globally inspired dishes using locally sourced seafood and produce.
Latitude 28, named for Clearwater Beach’s geographic location, is the resort’s signature restaurant serving breakfast and dinner. The décor is a mix of reflective tile, woven light fixtures, and warm wood tones that set the scene for chic and glamorous evening dining. The restaurant’s Mediterranean coastal menu consists of small plates, flatbreads, spreads, and mezze, as well as steaks and seafood. Standouts such as the smoked burrata, Wagyu steak, and mint-crusted lamb are memorable twists on classics. The eggplant laban — a combination of spiced eggplant that’s lightly fried and served on a bed of garlic yogurt with turmeric — was the best eggplant dish I’ve eaten anywhere.
The 11th floor restaurant, The Deep End, commands attention with its panoramic views of the Gulf of Mexico, as well as a Nikkei-inspired menu that fuses Japanese and Peruvian flavors. Dishes such as the Peruvian spiced grouper and pork bao tacos pair perfectly with the restaurant’s inventive craft cocktails. Sipping a margarita while taking in the sublime sunset views at The Deep End is the perfect way to end any day.
Eskape, the hotel’s beachfront bar and grill, serves burgers, salads, and Florida classics such as shrimp tacos. For quick meals and small bites, the JW Market is a grab-and-go coffee bar and market offering breakfast items, salads, sandwiches, and snacks.
How to make the most of a trip to Clearwater Beach outside of the resort
Photo: Katie Riley
While the resort’s three restaurants offer plenty of variety for guests, the hotel is also walking distance to several casual eateries and beach bars. Frenchy’s Rockaway Grill is a local institution serving up frozen drinks, live music, and an extensive menu of fresh seafood. Try the famous grouper sandwich, prepared a variety of ways, the fish tacos, or the jerk chicken.
For fine-dining off property, head to The Black Pearl, located seven miles away in nearby Dunedin. The restaurant only has 12 tables and offers an intimate, personalized level of service that makes it a great choice for celebrations or anniversaries. Every dish is thoughtfully prepared and presented, but don’t leave without ordering the pork belly over cheddar grits or the indulgent white truffle lobster risotto.
In general, Clearwater Beach is a walkable town with dozens of casual restaurants, tiki bars, and shopping venues that sell everything from standard tourist tchotchkes to designer apparel. The town’s reputation as a premier fishing destination is apparent as you drive along Clearwater Memorial Causeway, a road surrounded on both sides by marinas. There’s no shortage of boating tours that offer everything from sunset cruises to dolphin tours.
Photo: Sunshower Shots/Shutterstock
For families traveling with kids, the Clearwater Marine Aquarium is home to bottlenose dolphins, river otters, sea turtles, and countless fish species. The Ruth and J.O. Stone Dolphin Complex houses five pools and hosts several dolphin shows daily. The Royal Conquest Pirate Ship out of nearby Madeira Beach is a fun choice for a Goonies-style adventure on the water.
As Clearwater Beach’s top attraction, Pier 60 has a large playground, pavilions, telescopes for stargazing, and a 1,060-foot fishing pier lit for night fishing. The Pier 60 Bait Shop sells bait and tackle and has equipment available for rent. Later in the day, Sunset at Pier 60 is the on-site entertainment venue offering nightly live music that begins two hours before sunset and concludes two hours after sunset.
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