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90 percent of penguin colony lost

L’Île aux Cochons (or Pig Island) is actually more like Penguin Island. This French territory in the Crozet archipelago (roughly located between the southeastern shore of South Africa and Antarctica) is considered to be the largest habitat of king penguins in the world. The island hasn’t been visited by researchers since 1982, but satellite images taken by helicopter in 2016 showed a startling change. Over the past 30 years, this penguin colony has seen an alarming decline.

By examining the images, researchers were able to estimate that, of the original 500,000 breeding pairs of king penguins in 1988, only 60,000 remained in 2016. The research team suspects climate may be the culprit, as warming temperatures have previously had negative effects on penguin populations throughout Antarctica. Competition for the island’s limited resources, however, may have also played a role.

If the satellite images are accurate, it would indicate a dramatic reduction of the global king penguin population, bringing their total number from 2 million to 200,000 birds. The Pig Island decline might even be enough to land them on the endangered species list. The tipping point for Pig Island is thought to have come in 1997, when an El Niño weather event caused temperatures to increase for a whole year, pushing the penguins’ food source too far south for them to retrieve it in time.

While king penguin colonies in the South Indian Ocean also felt El Niño’s effects that year, they were able to recover. Researchers have postulated that Pig Island’s unique decline may have also been due to an infection or parasite on the island, or a predator like feral cats devastating penguin nests.

Emiliano Trucchi, an evolutionary biologist at the University of Ferrara in Italy, published a paper earlier this year that predicted warming seas would cause all Crozet archipelago penguins to either relocate or die by 2100.

Hopefully, it doesn’t take us another 30 years to check in on the Pig Island penguins.

H/T: The New York Times

More like this: 15 facts you did not know about the wildlife of Antarctica

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First look at Virgin Voyages ship

Crazy, crazy Richard Branson is at it again. This time the eccentric Aussie billionaire is taking the last bastion of unabashed gluttony and trying to turn it into something “healthy.” At least, that’s the indication we got from the first public renderings of his forthcoming Virgin Voyages cruise line, scheduled to set sail in 2020.

Last week at the ship’s yard in Genoa, Italy, Virgin released videos, artist renderings, and some details about the Scarlet Lady, the first ship in the cruise line’s fleet. And it looks more like a wellness retreat in Ojai than a weekend trip to Nassau.

Start with the 360-degree views from the white-daybed-adorned Crows Nest bar on the ship’s top deck. Though it’ll presumably serve the boozy, fruity drinks we expect on cruises, it serves them in a bright, breezy setting that’ll have you chasing your Piña Colada with some fresh ocean air — a slightly more Zen setting than the typical rum bars next to a children’s waterpark.

Just outside the Crows Nest, you’ll find the Runway, a dedicated jogging track set over the ship where joggers won’t have to compete with waddling passengers for running space. The track encircles the top deck, allowing runners great views and ample opportunities to make everyone below who isn’t running feel guilty.

Not wellness-laden enough for you? Dick Branson’s got more up his white linen sleeve with an outdoor training center and boxing ring. So if you feel like letting out any aggression you might have brought on board, you can do so in the ring. This will presumably help passengers avoid any fights over who was first in the midnight pizza line. There’ll also be something called the B-complex with rooms that’ll make you build, burn, bike, and balance, which sounds a little like riding your bike away from an insurance fire but actually involves weights, spinning, yoga, and other stuff that won’t get you arrested.

After your workout, you can relax in the ship’s Redemption Spa on deck five where, in addition to a hydrotherapy pool, there’ll be all sorts of earthy treatments from a mudroom to a salt room to quartz beds. And if relaxing isn’t hype enough for you, Redemption will also have a resident DJ spinning at the spa nightly. Because what life is complete without a party horn waking you out of a quartz bed?

And perhaps the most peaceful thing about the Scarlet Lady: no kids. That’s right, the new adults-only cruise line isn’t letting little ones on board. So no need to worry about your rooftop bliss getting interrupted by the youngest cousins from the O’Malley family reunion.

The ship has the sleek, curved look that we’ve grown accustomed to on Virgin Atlantic and Virgin America flights, with plenty of sultry reds and euro-chic whites throughout. The exterior is a lot of curves and closed walls with just enough chrome to make it look a little like a floating Vegas baggage claim. With so much wellness, such a striking design, and so few children, this might be the first cruise line in history where people leave feeling healthier than when they arrived. That crazy Richard Branson seems to know what he’s doing.


More like this: Mapped: The world’s most popular cruise ship destinations

The post Virgin Voyages released the first pics from its first ship and it looks insane appeared first on Matador Network.

Why Kyoto is best explored by bike

Taking the bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto, you’re probably ready to ditch the bustle of the Japanese capital and experience some Zen serenity in this ancient city. Yet, arriving at Kyoto’s main train station — a busy, modern terminus more like a major airport — you realize you’re still in an urban center. Kyoto, after all, has nearly a million and a half residents, and plenty of high-rise apartment blocks.

However, rent a bike and you’ll quickly be transported to the Kyoto you’ve imagined — the Kyoto of rivers and canals, wooded hills, serene temples, sand gardens, bamboo forests, and cherry trees. Kyoto is without a doubt best explored by bike with accessible routes that aren’t limited to seasoned cyclists. So if you want to see the serene side of Japan without having to shove your way onto public transportation, rent a bike and start exploring.

You can rent bicycles everywhere.

Photo: DutchMen/Shutterstock

Assuming you don’t have luggage to drop off at your hotel or ryokan — a Japanese inn — you can rent bicycles right at the train station. We recommend doing so at the Kyoto Cycling Project as it will also supply you with maps and can suggest tour routes. If you didn’t get them at the train station, there are plenty of other places you can rent them, whether from Kyoto Cycling or other companies.

Cycling is how the locals get around.

Photo: Picnote/Shutterstock

When you ride a bike, you’ll just be doing what the locals do to get around. Since locals rely on cycling as a major means of transportation, the city is incredibly bike friendly. Just don’t forget that in Japan, traffic travels on the left side of the road. Bikes should too.

You can even ride your bike on some sidewalks — but you need to be sure you see a sign permitting it. Even so, you should yield to pedestrians and ride on the part of the sidewalk closest to the street. Also, note that at certain times of day, riding on those same sidewalks will be prohibited. You’ll have to get off your bike and walk it.

In fact, Kyoto has so many bikes that city sidewalks have become overrun with them. The solution has been to create indoor bike parking lots all over the city. You can park your bikes at these lots for up to three hours for free. A couple of spots in the city even allow you to roll your bike onto a portal, which will then whisk it down for underground parking.

If you do park your bike somewhere that blocks pedestrian traffic, you may find it missing on your return. It will have been tossed onto a truck and impounded. In its place, a note will tell you where you can pick it up.

Kyoto is full of bike-friendly waterways.

Photo: Odagiri/Shutterstock

Kyoto’s Kamo River runs from the mountains due north of Kyoto directly south, bisecting the city. The river, and the paved paths that run along either side of it, are sunken below street level and strewn with trees and greenery. Just getting down along the river is an immediate escape from the urban feel, making it popular with walkers, joggers, and cyclists.

For cyclists, though, the Kamo River path is not just pretty and fun. It’s also one of the most efficient ways to traverse the city as you avoid traffic and stoplights, rolling unimpeded past the cross streets that run along the bridges overhead.

In addition, the city has several canals. Not all the canals have bike paths alongside them. The Shirakawa Canal in Gion is too narrow for that, but it does have lovely bridges crossing over it that are only wide enough for pedestrians and bikes. The Okazaki Canal, however, is one of the most beautiful spots to take in the cherry blossoms in spring. You can ride your bike alongside the water, under the white and pink trees bursting with flowers.

Biking is the easiest way to get to Kyoto Imperial Park.

Photo: aaron choi/Shutterstock

Kyoto Station is only two and a half miles from the Imperial Palace, but by car, the ride can take up to 40 minutes during peak traffic hours. Yet with the bike you’ve rented right at the train station, you can cycle your way north along the Kamo River and arrive at the Imperial Palace in an easy 20 minutes.

Even though it’s no longer the official seat of the emperor, which moved from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1868, you can’t go inside the Imperial Palace itself — but you can ride around the grounds of the Kyoto Imperial Park and check out many of the other buildings, like the Sento Palace and a mansion for court nobles.

From there you can get back on the Kamo River path and continue another two miles north to the Kyoto Botanical Gardens, which has well over 100,000 plants of more than 12,000 diverse species.

And the best way to see a lot of temples.

Photo: chanchai duangdoosan/Shutterstock

No visit to Kyoto is complete without seeing Kinkaku-ji, the Zen Buddhist Temple also known as Rokuon-ji or the Temple of the Golden Pavilion for the gold leaf that covers the top two of its three levels. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was actually rebuilt only six decades ago since the original 14th-century structure burned down.

The best time of day to visit Kinkaku-ju is later in the day to catch the dazzling afternoon sunlight reflecting off the golden sanctuary. The gleaming temple is itself reflected in the serene lake it overlooks.

Kinkaku-ji is only two and a half miles away from the Imperial Palace but close to several other temples and shrines. Since you’ll be on a bike, you can visit a few Buddhist holy places before heading up the hillside to Kinkaku-ji in that magical afternoon hour.

Temples near Kinkaku-ji that we recommend include Ryoan-ji, which is famous for its meditative and impeccably combed, dry-sand gardens. Beyond that is Ninna-Ji, which is also a World Heritage Site and one of our favorite temples. Dating to 888 but rebuilt post-fire in the 17th century, it has an impressive, multi-tiered pagoda; stunning gardens, both green and dry; and a lovely hillside setting with views of Kyoto.

You can ride along the Philosopher’s Walk.

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

In the opposite direction of Kinkaku-ji lies the Philosopher’s Walk. The one-plus-mile path is named for a beloved Japanese philosopher, Nishida Kitaro, who used his daily walks to Kyoto University as a time to meditate. Winding under cherry trees along a picturesque canal, the Philosopher’s Walk is a great place to pedal your bike. That said, if it’s a weekend when the trees are in bloom, it will be packed with folks out for a stroll. On those days, bike first thing in the morning or in the early evening.

Near the Philosopher’s Walk, and beyond it in the foothills, are several more temples. On one end of the walk, Ginkaku-ji is the Temple of the Silver Pavilion. Although it was modeled on Kinkaku-ji and intended to be covered in a silver overlay, it never was. The moss garden, though, is lovely.

Locals love to visit the Eikando (formerly known as the Zenrinji) Temple in the fall as its trees burst in hues of gold, rust, and crimson. The Hojo Pond is lovely at that time of year but also in summer when the leaves are green. Not far, the Nanzen-ji Temple burnt down multiple times, but the latest iteration dates to 1597.

Also near the Philosopher’s Walk is the Heian Shrine, similarly easy to get to when you are cycling. It’s dedicated to the spirits of Kyoto’s first and last emperors. Entrance is free to the main building, but there’s a fee to enter the gardens. Right next door you’ll find The National Museum of Art, Kyoto and the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.

You can bike to a cafe or bar.

Photo: John Grummitt/Shutterstock

When you’re on a bike, you can cover more ground more quickly than if you were walking — so take a chance on that cute cafe in the lovely Gion neighborhood. You can also park your bike by a bar at night. Just note a couple of important things: First, it’s illegal to ride at night without a bike light. You should have gotten one when you rented the bike.

Second, this is not wine country. You aren’t on a bike so you can get hammered and still ride back to your lodging later. If you are visibly wasted, a policeman may stop you. Riding your bike while drunk is illegal. So while we love Kyoto by bike, if you guzzle too many sake shots, you are better off taking a cab.

You can also bike out of town.

Photo: mssy/Shutterstock

The great thing about a bike in Kyoto is that it shortens distances that would be too long to walk and more complicated by car. If you’re already by the Golden Temple, it’s just three miles to get to the outskirts of town and check out the bamboo forest at Arashiyama on the western edge of the city. Or if you keep following the Kamo River upstream, you’ll pass teahouses and forests of cedar. If you keep on pedaling, you’re in for an intense and beautiful climb into the wooded hills.


More like this: 7 of the most scenic biking routes in Europe

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7 beautiful clock towers in Europe

Europe is filled with architectural masterpieces, from churches and synagogues to subway stations and train stations. It’s also home to some of the oldest and most beautiful clock towers in the world — ones far more intricate than the famous Big Ben. These design and mechanical wonders may not be understood by all, but they are worth admiring — even if your Apple Watch has you covered on keeping time. Here are seven of the coolest clock towers you can find around Europe and the stories behind their creation.

1. Prague’s Astronomical Clock, Czech Republic

Photo: Ilyshev Dmitry/Shutterstock

Prague’s Astronomical Clock (or Pražský orloj) is a work of genius. The two dials of the clock mounted on the medieval Old Town Hall tower are as beautiful as they are intricate. Glimpsing the clock won’t help you figure out what time it is if you have not done some major research beforehand, so here’s the lowdown on how it works.

Photo: Anastasios71/Shutterstock

The upper dial is the clock that provides the time of the day, and it does so in three ways: Central European time (the one we all care about), Old Bohemian time, and Star time. This dial’s many circles, hands, symbols, and colors also provide knowledgeable observers with a ton of information, such as the position of the sun, moon, and stars. Every hour, from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM, the blue doors above this dial open, and figurines of the 12 apostles move within the tower to show themselves at the doors one by one. The figures on both sides of the dial also move every hour. This mechanism has been working the same way for over 600 years. (It was built in 1410.) Note that the apostles’ parade is more easily seen from within the tower’s chapel. Once inside, climb to the top for one of the greatest views of the city. The entry fee is 250 CZK ($11).

The lower dial is a calendar; it notes the day of the week, the month, and the year. This dial was added to the tower in 1659.

Because it’s been doing its job so well and for so long, the clock is currently undergoing repairs to keep it ticking. According to the New York Times, some of the metal gears will be replaced by more authentic wooden ones, and the clock’s dials will be restored to their original beauty. The clock will be back in place in August.

2. The Jubilee Clock in Lier, Belgium

Photo: Sergey Dzyuba/Shutterstock

Mounted on the 14th-century Zimmer Tower (all that is left of the city wall), the 13 dials of the Jubilee clock may be confusing, but at least you can easily check out the time of the day — on the middle dial. Louis Zimmer, the clockmaker and astronomer, spent five years creating the Jubilee Clock and revealed it to the public in 1930 for the 100th anniversary of Belgium’s independence, hence the clock’s and tower’s monikers.

Photo: Elena Stepanova/Shutterstock

The twelve remaining dials indicate (clockwise):

The phases of the Moon (12)
The Metonic cycle in the outer circle, and the epact in the inner circle (1)
The equation of time (2)
Zodiacal constellations (3)
The solar cycle and dominical letters (4)
The weekdays (5)
The terrestrial globe (6)
The months (7)
The dates (8)
The seasons (9)
Tides (10)
The lunar month (11)

Every day at noon, on the right facade of the Zimmer Tower, four automated figures depicting the four stages of life (child, youth, adult, and old man) ring the bells to announce the time.

The Zimmer Tower is home to a museum dedicated to the work of Louis Zimmer. Entry fee is 4.50 EUR ($5.25).

3. The clock of the Church of Our Lady in Nuremberg, Germany

Photo: Kiev.Victor/Shutterstock

The clock of the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche) only has one dial, and it displays the time of the day, so, unlike the previous two clocks, you won’t need a degree in astronomy to decipher it. The clock is nothing to rave about, but the beautiful mechanism of figurines that are linked to it and the church on which it sits is quite amazing.

The spot where this Gothic church dedicated to Mary now stands used to be the location of a synagogue that was destroyed during the Jewish pogrom of 1349. Frauenkirche was finished in 1355 and designed to be a holy shrine for the Crown Jewel of Emperor Charles IV. Despite its age and the bombing raid of 1945, the church still stands proudly on Nuremberg’s marketplace. The automated figures that move at noon every day represent seven nobles showing reverence to Emperor Charles IV sitting on his throne. It was created in 1509 and stored away in a bunker during WWII.

The Church of Our Lady is open seven days a week. There is no entry fee but donations are accepted. Guided tours are available.

4. The clock of La Conciergerie in Paris, France

Photo: Christian Mueller/Shutterstock

The oldest public clock in Paris is mounted on the city’s courthouse, La Conciergerie. The Gothic palace that is the current courthouse used to be the royal residence of the French kings until the 14th century when it became a law court/prison. (It was where Marie-Antoinette was jailed during the French Revolution.) The clock was commissioned in 1371, but it was reworked in 1586 — the sculptures representing Justice and Law were added then — and the face of the clock was restored many times over the years. (The latest renovation took place in 2012.) The clock is quite a sight; it is gilded with 24-carat gold, and its bright blue and fleur-de-lis background is a showstopper.

Check out the clock and visit the Conciergerie every day from 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM. Entry fee is 9 EUR ($10.50).

5. Eastgate Clock in Chester, England

Photo: SquareOneMeidaUK/Shutterstock

The most famous clock in England is undoubtedly Big Ben, but because it’s currently undergoing repair to the great displeasure of visitors to the country, we suggest you get out of London and check out the Eastgate Clock in Chester. Chester is located about 40 minutes south of Liverpool, and it’s one of Great Britain’s greatest heritage cities, so the clock is only icing on the cake, really.

Chester is an ancient fortified Roman city. The archway (Eastgate) on which the clock sits is part of the remaining two miles of the 2,000-year-old Roman walls, and it straddles Chester’s main shopping street. The Eastgate Clock, mounted on a beautiful column of intricately ornamented wrought iron, was installed in 1899 and began ticking on May 24. It was created to commemorate Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee (1897). It is said that the Eastgate Clock is the second-most photographed clock after Big Ben.

6. Bern’s Clock Tower, Switzerland

Photo: MarinaDa/Shutterstock

Bern’s Clock Tower was the city’s first western city gate (built between 1191-1256) in the fortified town, but the astronomical clock and its automated figurines were added to the Zytglogge much later in 1530.

There are three clock faces on the tower:

The eastern clock (the one above the astronomical clock on the eastern facade) indicates the time of the day. The larger hand indicates the hour using the outer circle of the dial while the smaller hand indicates the minutes in the outer circle. In the photo above, the time displayed on the eastern clock face is 1:50 PM. (It would dark outside if it was AM.)
The western clock is not visible in the picture above, but it also displays the time of the day in a very similar fashion to the eastern clock. The dial, however, is painted on the tower rather than mounted.
The astronomical clock has many circles, hands, and colors that indicate the time of day, phases of the moon, day of the week, day of the year, and position of the sun and stars. Without astronomy and clockmaking knowledge, it is nearly impossible to fully understand how the astronomical clock functions. The astronomical clock must be wound every day to keep ticking. It takes the strength of three people to do so.

Photo: MarinaDa/Shutterstock

Every hour, a performance involving automated figures is set in motion by the astronomical clock. A dancing jester rings two bells and cues a parade of bears, Chronos turns over an hourglass and opens his mouth, and a gilded rooster raises its wings and crows to start the show.

After you’ve checked out the tower and its clocks from the streets, you can go inside to see the complicated mechanism up close and get a great view of the city’s rooftops. Both public and private tours are organized daily.

7. The Zodiacal Clock of Padua, Italy

Photo: Luca Lorenzelli/Shutterstock

The Zodiacal Clock of Padua, built in 1364, is deemed one of the first clocks ever created. The clock is mounted on the tower of the Palazzo Capitanio and overlooks the beautiful Piazza dei Signori.

Photo: wjarek/Shutterstock

The Zodiacal Clock is a 24-hour clock, hence the 24 Roman numerals carved around the dial and the slow-moving hour hand. (It moves half as fast as a 12-hour clock.) Between the markers of the hours and the inner dial indicating the zodiacal constellations, the clock is beautifully painted in blue and decorated with gilded stars. The clock also displays the months of the year in Latin, the phases of the Moon, and other celestial events. The clock chimes every hour.


More like this: 7 lesser-known Parisian architectural wonders you can check out for free

The post The 7 coolest clock towers in Europe and the stories behind them appeared first on Matador Network.

Ultimate guide to the St. Olavs Ways

In 2016, 278,232 people made the pilgrimage across Spain and Portugal to Santiago de Compostela. At least, that’s how many actually received their certificates at the end. The same year, a mere 1,045 people made the pilgrimage to Nidaros Cathedral on the St. Olav Ways in Norway.

In historical terms, the two are pretty equal. Both the Camino de Santiago and the St. Olav Ways are Christian pilgrimage routes dating back to the Middle Ages. Both involve buried saints and cathedrals, and both require an unwavering, superhero level of dedication. But where the Camino has seen its modern-day renaissance, the St. Olav Ways has not. There is no other 1,000-year-old path like it, and certainly no path as endlessly serene.

This is not a walk you take to socialize with fellow backpackers, nab entire bottles of wine and pilgrim dinners for €10, and wonder whether a way-sign is real or an effort to direct you to the local bar. Here, you come for the eternal summertime sunset. You come to feast on medieval homemade stews in dimly lit and ever-creaking barns. You come to climb in circles to remote mountain farms and to be the only one for miles caught in the rain.

You hike the St. Olav Ways for yourself. For your spirituality, self-improvement, rescue from all things digital, health, peace of mind, and time simply spent wandering the Norwegian countryside.

Here’s how you do it.

What’s the history?

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Though Norway is hardly a Catholic country — it’s actually mostly Lutheran — the story of St. Olav is still central to the national identity. His axe, after all, is on the country’s coat of arms. And it really all boils down to one thing: he smelled like roses.

That is, upon being exhumed. When he was alive, he really wasn’t all that popular, nor did he likely smell that great. As Norway’s first king, he was exiled to Russia, came back to regain the throne, and lost at the Battle of Stiklestad on July 29th, 1030 — with the date living on as St. Olav’s Day. His body was brought 75 miles west to Trondheim where he was buried on the banks of the Nidelva River. When his coffin was to be moved, legend has it that it smelled of roses. When it was opened, he didn’t look a day older than he did during that fatal battle.

And bam. Canonization, or sainthood, just a year later. Construction began on Nidaros Cathedral — over the rumored site of his body — in 1070. For the next five hundred years, Norwegians made the pilgrimage along the St. Olav Ways, all headed for Nidaros Cathedral, for St. Olav, in Trondheim.

And then, in 1537, the pilgrimage was banned. The Lutheran Reformation put an end to the ancient trek, and it was almost lost. Yet in 1997, the country dedicated funds to bringing it back, and now thousands of kilometers of trails are marked throughout Norway — through small villages, rolling farmland, national parks, small towns, and into its third-largest city, Trondheim.

What is my route?

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Just like the Camino, you can get to Nidaros Cathedral via multiple routes, and by far the most popular is the Gudbrandsdalen. Seventy percent of hikers take this 400-mile main drag from Oslo to Trondheim; most of the remaining hikers opt for the 350-mile St. Olav’s Path, which starts on the eastern coast of Sweden.

Five others routes are the Borg Path, Valldal Path, Rombo Path, North Path, and Coastal Path. While all have their merits, this guide will focus mainly talk on the Gudbrandsdalen. It not only winds through Norway’s prettiest valley; it’s also the longest, most central, and most historic of the options.

How long does it take?

How fast do you want to go? Thirty-two days is the standard answer for the main trek — if you’re going by what the pros have planned out. You may want to schedule in a few extra days to rest or see more. You also have the option of simply hiking the last 100 km (62 miles) to Trondheim, literally in the steps of those who carried St. Olav to his burial. You’ll still receive your certificate at the end for this, too.

In terms of terrain, the Gudbrandsdalen’s highest point (hardbakken) is 4,333 feet above sea level. You should definitely bring a sturdy, well-worn pair of hiking boots, but you won’t be climbing Everest here. The trek varies from rocky, hillside dirt paths to farm roads and small-town streets. All parts of the path are well-marked — albeit by surprisingly small red-and-white markers, so keep an eye out — and you definitely won’t be slowed down by any bushwhacking or altitude sickness. Most pilgrims tend to do around 25 km a day, though you should focus on the distance you’re used to walking. No one’s here to race you. Some days, no one will be here at all.

Where should I stop?

We think Norway is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, so the short answer is “whenever and all the time.” But if you’re looking for a few ideas of what you’ll see along the way, here are some highlights:

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Cathedral ruins in Hamar

This 1,000-year-old cathedral is unlike any other you’ve probably seen; it’s encased in nothing but glass. Imagine an ancient sandstone behemoth inside the Louvre pyramid — but with better acoustics. If you can manage a night visit, it’s like being inside a stony rocketship.

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Dovrefjell National Park

This section of the trek is my favorite. It has no roads. No people. No power lines. No houses. Just the rolling Dovre mountains splashing out in front of you. And behind. And to all sides.

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Allemansrøysa

Also in Dovrefjell, there is a giant cairn, or stone pile, you can’t miss. But the cairn is not meant to mark the trail. It’s an enormous collection of rocks that symbolize what pilgrims before you have each wanted to leave behind, to no longer carry with them. Addiction, anxiety, grief, you name it. Pick up a small stone somewhere on your route and carry it here, joining all these other wonderful humans in their vulnerability.

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Ringebu Stave Church

There are only 28 stave churches left in Norway, and Ringebu is the second largest. They’re all around 1,000 years old — as old as the pilgrimage — a post church was here even before this structure was built.

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

The Hill of Joy

Upon entering Trondheim, you’ll see a sign near a spectacular view. It details how this is the first glimpse of the cathedral that pilgrims would get back in the day — and how that fact hasn’t changed.

What do I pack — and eat?

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

The packing list for the St. Olav Ways mirrors that of most other long-distance treks, so let’s not waste time stating that you need sunscreen and a first-aid kit. However, note that most days — if you’re hiking the average 25 km — you will likely run into a small town or village. Between grabbing pack lunches at your accommodations and this, staying food and water-equipped shouldn’t be a problem.

In terms of lodging, with sufficient planning, you could avoid bringing full camping supplies if you’re feeling confident. Should you get off-plan, however, it would be nice to have a plan B. If you can handle the weight, it’s nice to have a tent/sleeping bag/hammock/sleeping pad at the ready. That affords you some wiggle room in your itinerary, as well, not to mention full immersion in some of the planet’s most beautiful outdoor settings.

Where do I stay?

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Along the main route, you’ll find over 150 registered places to stay, varying from shared hostel accommodations to luxe suites overlooking Norway’s version of Lake Como. Look up all this information online right here, and be sure to call ahead to make reservations — it’s not exactly businesses you’re calling. These are often people opening up their houses and farms to pilgrims, much like locals did a thousand years ago. There are enough places that, if you plan sufficiently, you won’t need to pack full camping gear.

However, let’s not downplay the wonder that is allemannsretten, or the “freedom to roam.” In Norway, you’re allowed to wander virtually anywhere (be respectful, of course), and you can set up your tent for one night wherever you please, so long as it’s 492 feet away from the nearest building. Along these 643 km, the country is totally open to you, if you’re willing to pack the extra camping supplies.

Pro tip: If you’re looking for accommodations, don’t skip Sygard Grytting. It’s one of the few places that has documented proof that it took in pilgrims in the Middle Ages. The 800-year-old farmhouse has super authentic rooms, and Hilde will bake you the best raspberry tart of your life.

Let’s talk stamps.

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

Norway hasn’t missed the memo. Just like the Camino, you’ll likely find that everything is super well-organized and vaguely reminiscent of a scavenger hunt. Here’s how to take advantage of the “program”:

1) Scope out the website. Tons of downloadable maps, resources, and guides will help you plan every step of the way for both food and lodging.

2) Once in the country, stop at one of the regional pilgrim centers, like the one in Oslo, and buy the pilgrim passport for 50 NOK (about $6).

3) Wherever you go — be it affiliated stops like the above churches or lodging — get a stamp in your passport. Each place has their own, and by the time you’re done, you’ll have one bangin’ souvenir. Besides that, showing your passport will get you into a bunch of places for free or at a reduced price.

4) When you get to Nidaros Cathedral, your completed passport is proof of all your hard work. Show it to receive the letter. Head to the Nidaros Pilegrim Center (not a typo) to get the final stamp and put your little pin into your hometown on the site’s giant map.

What about Trondheim?

Photo: Jacqueline Kehoe

After your trek, stay in Trondheim for a couple of days — not only to recuperate but also to celebrate in one of the country’s most vibrant cities. It’s an old, gorgeous, walkable university town next to a beautiful river and surrounded by tall peaks.

A few days a month, Nidaros Cathedral opens tours underneath it and into the crypt. Take a tour if you can. Otherwise, splurge on local seafood at Havfruen. Grab pizza and basement-brewed beers at Habitat. Check out the Crown Regalia and Archbishop’s Palace museum for more ruins. Or just sit on the Old Town Bridge, taking in the above view. It’s certainly well-deserved after all your hard work getting there. And I’m sure your feet won’t mind.


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7 things Philadelphians worry about

“Tough” and “Philadelphia” are two words that are often synonymous. The home of Rocky Balboa knows how to endure. From the flight of industry to a long-lasting drought of sports championships, we take it on the chin and keep moving forward. But even though we’ve overcome so much, even perpetual fighters have things to worry about. Here are seven aspects of life in Philadelphia that fill us with trepidation.

1. Health food

A post shared by Jenna ⭐️ Torres (@jennastar4) on Nov 27, 2017 at 6:55pm PST

Look at the foods for which we’re we’re known. Cheesesteaks. Soft Pretzels. Hoagies. Tastykakes. Delicacies that clog the arteries but warm the soul. You’ll have to pry our comfort food away from our soft, doughy hands.

2. The Philadelphia Parking Authority

A post shared by Shawty T (@funsizetif) on Apr 3, 2018 at 6:26pm PDT

Parking Wars was created for a reason. If the mere thought of being ticketed and towed by the PPA doesn’t fill you with trepidation, then you’re lying. It is by far the most efficiently run city department. They know when we’re racing to our cars to beat the meter and will always get there 30 seconds before us.

3. Snow

A post shared by Jasper String Quartet (@jasperquartet) on Mar 7, 2018 at 5:31pm PST

Mid-Atlantic locales should expect measurable snowfall to occur at least once a year. It happens with predictable frequency. Yet somehow we have no idea what to do with it. Cars can’t handle it. Trains stop running. Schools close. Parking spots are shoveled and stolen. It’s enough to make you want to hibernate until the snow melts and the roads clear.

4. Pennsylvania liquor laws

A post shared by Juice (@wpxi_juice) on Dec 11, 2017 at 9:45am PST

Sure, laws have relaxed in recent years, allowing Philadelphians to join the 20th century and purchase beer and wine in the same location at some stores. But we still have so far to go before we can rid ourselves of the sheer madness that is Pennsylvania’s liquor laws. We live in hope that we never enter the dark place of needing to make a liquor purchase after 5:00 PM on a Sunday.

5. Overconfidence in sports

A post shared by Philadelphia Eagles (@philadelphiaeagles) on Jul 30, 2018 at 6:14am PDT

It’s a glorious time to be a Philadelphia sports fan. But we will never forget the lonely, long-suffering 25-year span without a championship. The agony of a lifetime is every team’s argument against the Birds being, “You’ve never won a Super Bowl.” Although currently brazen and prouder than ever of our teams, we still have a fear of returning to those cold, dark years.

6. Overpowering Billy Penn again

A post shared by Ibsen Centeno Photography (@ibsen_centeno_photography) on Feb 1, 2018 at 12:06pm PST

The aforementioned championship drought is part of our DNA. The pain is a part of who we are. In the midst of the building boom of Philadelphia’s skyline, adding a Billy Penn figure at the top of a structure must never be forgotten.

7. Enduring Pat’s and Geno’s

A post shared by @funkymac on Jul 29, 2018 at 11:54am PDT

All family and friends from out of town want to go to Pat’s and Geno’s. Their neon lights get endless press but we know better cheesesteaks can be had on just about every other corner of the city. But sure, let’s go endure overpriced, unseasoned meat so we can say we had the experience.


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Cairo zoo painted a donkey

You might be able to put lipstick on a pig, but you definitely can’t paint a donkey and call it a zebra. But that didn’t stop the International Garden municipal park zoo in Cairo from trying. The zoo is being accused of trying to fool visitors by painting zebra stripes onto a donkey. A visitor to the zoo, 18-year-old Mahmoud Sarhan, said several things about the animal made him suspicious, including what appeared to be black paint running off the donkey’s face and ears that didn’t look the right size.

Photo: Mahmoud A. Sarhan/Facebook

Mohammed Sultan, director of Gardens Project in Cairo, has denied reports that his zoo tried to pass off a donkey as a zebra. “The zebra is real and not painted,” he told Egypt’s Youm 7 news channel, adding that the animals are regularly inspected and well cared for. PETA Vice President Delcianna Winders disagrees. “No reputable animal care facility would subject a skittish animal like a donkey to the stress of being restrained and sprayed with chemicals like paint, which could cause a painful allergic reaction,” she told CNN in a statement.

It’s not the first time a zoo has allegedly pulled a stunt like this. In 2013, a zoo in China was the subject of similar outrage when it tried to pass off a hairy dog as a lion.

H/T: CNN

More like this: Should travelers go to zoos? Some groups are starting to say no

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Get paid to travel and eat BBQ

Reynolds Wrap is better known for its aluminum foil wrap than for its dream job opportunities, but it appears that things are changing dramatically in the world of kitchen products.

Reynolds Kitchens is looking to hire a Chief Grilling Officer to travel the US sampling food from many of the country’s best barbecue restaurants. The lucky CGO will also share tips on preparing, grilling, and devouring meats and veggies on the Reynolds Kitchens blog along the way. The gig pays a shiny $10,000 along with all travel expenses including flights and hotel rooms for you and one other person.

If you think you have what it takes to become CGO, send your application to ReynoldsCGO@gmail.com by August 13th. Make sure you submit an original photo of yourself hard at work behind the grill along with 100 words on why you’re the only one that can truly master this role.

The only bummer is that the job only lasts for two weeks — but you might be craving a pizza or a salad by that time, anyway.


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Earthquake on Lombok in Indonesia

On Sunday, a deadly 6.4 magnitude earthquake rocked the island of Lombok in Indonesia. Triggering landslides and destroying homes, the earthquake stranded hundreds of hikers on the slopes of Mount Rinjani, a 12,200-foot volcano popular with trekkers. The earthquake was so powerful that it could even be felt on Bali, 60 miles away from its epicenter on Lombok. The BBC reports that at least 16 people have been killed, and 330 injured.

A relief effort is currently underway on Mount Rinjani, where 820 hikers were climbing to the summit when the earthquake struck on Sunday. By Monday afternoon, 246 people had been rescued from the volcano, but trails blocked by landslides are making rescue attempts more difficult. American hiker John Robyn Buenavista told Reuters, “I saw people with half of their bodies stuck in the rocks and I just couldn’t move. I felt paralyzed and stopped moving. The guides were screaming, ‘Don’t die, don’t die.’ One of the guides had to shake me and take me by the hand.” Luckily, Buenavista made it safely out of Gunung Rinjani National Park, where the volcano is located.

The Indonesian government has declared a state of emergency, and the Mount Rinjani hiking trails have been closed indefinitely to anyone except rescue workers. The island’s only health center was also flattened in the quake, making relief efforts particularly complicated. This type of seismic activity is not new to Indonesia. Its position on the Pacific Ring of Fire, home to over half of the world’s above-water volcanoes, means Indonesia is no stranger to natural disasters. This particular disaster, however, is already the most fatal earthquake in Indonesia since December 2016, when 104 people perished in a 6.5 magnitude quake.

H/T: Condé Nast Traveler

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Virgin America safety video dance

This Virgin America flight attendant Mikey Tongko-Burry knows that passengers are more likely to pay attention to safety demonstrations when they have a little pizzazz, so he went all out and gave a hilarious performance of Virgin America’s popular, catchy safety instructions.

While Virgin America merged with Alaska Airlines back in January, the Virgin America safety video tradition lives on — at least one final time.

Virgin America Safety Film being retired next week so our flight attendant danced it for us…