Matador Network's Blog, page 1075

Airbnb ‘Around the World in 80 Days'

To kick off the launch of Airbnb Adventures — a new offering where people can sign up for fully hosted travel experiences — the home-sharing company is introducing an 18-country trip around the world. Inspired by Jules Verne’s Around the World in 80 Days novel, Airbnb’s “Around the World in 80 Days” trip will take you through many of the countries mentioned in the book. The 12-week trip will attempt to recreate as closely as possible the journey of Phileas Fogg, bringing you through 18 different countries across multiple continents.

Starting and ending in London, travelers will soon find themselves on a whirlwind adventure through the countries of the former Soviet Union, eastern Africa, the Middle East, northern and southern Asia, the South Pacific, the Americas, and a Nordic Island. While such an extensive trip sounds daunting, Airbnb is taking the burden of planning off your shoulders. All accommodation, transport, food, and drink will be covered. According to Airbnb’s website, “All you have to do is make sure you have enough empty pages in your passport, buy a round trip ticket to and from London, and get on that first flight. When you land, the first chapter of your around the world adventure begins.”

The itinerary includes glacier walking in Patagonia, exploring the Australian outback, walking the Silk Road, and much more. A full description of what you’ll be doing can be found on the website.

As expected, the trip isn’t cheap. It costs $5,001 per person and runs from September 1 through November 19. It doesn’t appear as though you will be traveling in a hot air balloon, like Fogg, but perhaps you’ll be able to at least ride one in some corner of the world. So you’d better start saving up those PTO days.

H/T: Travel & Leisure

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Tokyo man busted selling metro seat

Rule number one for any enterprising business person is to identify a pressing problem and figure out how to profit by solving that problem. The subway system in metro Tokyo, an area with some 38 million residents, is notoriously clogged and often requires riders to stand shoulder to shoulder for the duration of their rides. One such entrepreneur decided he would take it upon himself to make one commuter’s ride more comfortable, each day. Because he lived in the suburb of Chiba and boarded early on in the route, a seat was almost always available to him in the morning.

According to a report in The Guardian, the man listed a reserved seat on the Hokuso line for sale on an auction site called Mercari. For 2,000 yen, about $18.50, a rider further down the line that otherwise would have had to stand amongst the chaos could instead enjoy a reserved seat that was personally kept warm by the buttocks of the purveyor. As the train moved closer to central Tokyo, filling up more at each stop along the way, the purchaser of the seat would approach the man, confirm that it was him, and slide into his conveniently reserved seat.

His plan proved successful because of the consistency of his trip. The man boarded at the same time each morning and would list the car number and where he was on the post. All the buyer had to do was show confirmation of payment. Demand for his seat was high, and multiple transactions were completed. With the ease of modern money-transfer apps, his plan was almost foolproof — except for the fact that it violated local ordinances in both the Tokyo and Chiba prefectures, which the route passes through. Mercari demanded the removal of the man’s listing, ending his short-lived venture. The punishment for his offense is a fine of up to 500,000 yen (more than $4,500) — certainly high enough to offset the man’s profit.

H/T: The Guardian

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Anthony Bourdain food trail open

Residents and visitors to the East Coast have a new way to pay tribute to the legendary traveler, chef, and author Anthony Bourdain. A food trail covering the spots Bourdain visited on the New Jersey episode of Parts Unknown, filmed in 2015, officially opened on June 13. Bourdain, host of the popular CNN show, was a Jersey native — despite being known as the longtime chef at Les Halles, a steak-and-frites joint in New York City.

Over 16 years on television, Bourdain joined an elite cast of on-screen Jersey natives including John Travolta, Meryl Streep, and Ray Liotta, though he is the first to have a tourist trail designated in his honor. It’s his second official trail, following the opening of a route in Vietnam that includes the Bun Cha stand where he dined with President Barack Obama. The route consists of 10 restaurants that he loved, primarily located along the Jersey Shore but not overlooking north and south Jersey. In true Bourdain fashion, everything from fine dining to a fried hot dog stand and a taffy shop is represented. Here are the locations:

Kubel’s (Barnegat Light)
Hiram’s Roadstand (Fort Lee)
Tony & Ruth Steaks (Camden)
Donkey’s Place (Camden)
Lucille’s Country Cooking (Barnegat)
Frank’s Deli (Asbury Park)
James Candy Company (Atlantic City)
Knife & Fork (Atlantic City)
Dock’s Oyster House (Atlantic City)
Tony’s Baltimore Grill (Atlantic City)

Major props to any who drive the route and eat at each spot along the way — you can count yourself among the true Bourdain connoisseurs. Double points if you complete the journey on Bourdain Day.

This article has been updated on June 17, 2019.

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What to do in Kigali, Rwanda

Mountain gorillas are Rwanda’s wealth. But if you don’t have a few thousand dollars to spare — yes, that’s how expensive it is to see gorillas — or don’t have the time to hit the verdant volcanic mountains, Rwanda’s capital city is a destination in itself. Since the end of the genocide against the Tutsi in 1994, Kigali has become a cornerstone of African development. Despite its relatively small size, with just 800,000 residents, Kigali is tremendously influential.

Where only a generation ago atrocious cruelties were committed, you can now walk safely to almost any destination and enjoy a remarkably clean urban environment. In fact, on the last Saturday morning of every month, all Rwandans come together to clean up and improve their neighborhoods, nurturing a culture of order and respect. Kigali has something to teach us. Here’s how to enjoy this dynamic city.

Learn about healing and reconciliation.

Photo: Tony Campbell/Shutterstock

While Rwanda has made great strides to move beyond its past, remembrance is part of that process. Every year, from April 7 and for 100 days, the country pays tribute to the victims and survivors of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi. Whether you are visiting Kigali during the mourning period of kwibuka, meaning “to remember,” or outside of it, the genocide memorial sites are open to anyone who wants to learn about Rwanda’s history and understand how it informs its present and future.

The Kigali Genocide Memorial in Gisozi is the largest memorial site in Rwanda and is the final resting place for more than 250,000 victims. Before visiting, please bear in mind that this isn’t a tourist sight, but a place of grief, remembrance, and learning. The Kigali Genocide Memorial consists of a library, an amphitheater, an education center, and the gardens — a site of reflection and contemplation.

The memorial hosts three permanent exhibitions, including the Children’s Room, dedicated to the memory of children with educational workshops and performance art events. The self-guided audio tour is available in six languages, or visitors can be guided by staff members, many of whom are survivors of the genocide.

Understand Rwanda through art and fashion.

Photo: Innovation Village/Facebook

Kigali’s focus on development activities and innovation is also reflected in the creative sphere. The contemporary art scene in Kigali reflects Rwandan cultural heritage and highlights local talent. From visual arts, theater, and music to photography and fashion, Kigali is expressing itself.

Visit the Niyo Cultural Centre and discover the work of Rwandan painters, empowered to earn a living through their art. By buying art from Niyo, you automatically donate to the Niyo Foundation, which takes impoverished kids off the streets of Rwanda through participatory art education. Check out the Ishyo Arts Centre for events and festivals, as the nonprofit organization supports artists in all fields of performing arts, from dance and comedy to poetry and theater. Ishiyo even features installations.

The rooftop of Kigali Public Library in Kacyiru is home to Innovation Village, a multimedia firm which inspires communities and individuals to tell their stories through film, music, photography, and literature. Apart from organizing pop-up events and curating exhibitions, Innovation Village is also a co-working space with stunning views of the city, good coffee, and many book titles to skim through.

If you want to explore Rwandan fashion and upgrade your wardrobe, Kigali has several luxury boutiques and designers worth noting. House of Tayo, Inzuki Designs, Sonia Mugabo, and Moshions are stealing the show with their unique fabrics, colors, and designs. The brands may be inspired by their country of origin but are meant for global, broad-minded audiences.

Savor the simple and balanced Rwandan diet.

Photo: Sarine Arslanian/Shutterstock

Rwandan cuisine isn’t celebrated globally, like Ethiopian is, for example, because it’s not quite as colorful and aromatic. But the dishes are just as delicious. Rwandan meals are made with local, easy-to-grow ingredients such as sweet potatoes, beans, peas, and cassava; meat or fish is rarely on the table. Cattle, a status symbol, were not commonly used for meat. However, nowadays international influences are making dishes with chicken, beef, and tilapia fish more common.

For an elevated experience, head to the restaurant in the Amata n’Ubuki Hotel. If you want to delve into the Rwandan culture, have lunch at Mini Tamu Tamu in Nyamirambo; all moto drivers know this place. Rwandans love buffets, so to squeeze all local dishes in one meal, opt for a buffet lunch at The Fork. Some of the dishes to keep an eye out for are ugali (a thick, dough-like starch to dip in sauces and other dishes), igitoki (cooked banana), and sombe (boiled greens).

Bear in mind that street food doesn’t exist in Rwanda, perhaps one of the reasons the city is impeccably clean. But brochettes, roasted corn, and sambusas (which are like samosas) can be found at rest points outside the city, or boutiques (kiosks). If you want to taste the local drink, brace yourself for urwagwa, a brew made from fermented banana juice, based on an ancient recipe and handed down from father to son.

Kigali also brims with restaurants that serve cuisine from every corner of the world — whether it’s Spanish tapas at CasaKeza, authentic Indian at Khana Khazana, Korean at Dae Jang Geum, or Japanese at Sakae in the Nyarutarama neighborhood. Whatever you’re hungry for, there’s a good chance you’ll find it in Kigali.

Taste delightful arabica coffee.

Photo: Kasia Ozga/Shutterstock

The same volcanic soils that are excellent for Rwanda’s potatoes are also ideal for other foods. The soils, in combination with the high altitude and the mild yet misty climate, create ideal conditions for growing coffee. But the coffee culture in Rwanda is relatively new. Even though Belgian colonialists introduced cultivation in the 1930s, it’s only recently that Rwanda has started investing in high-quality arabica beans, and in the industry as a whole. If you are a coffee lover, you will immediately appreciate the creamy body and citrusy aromas of Rwandan coffee.

Some of the finest organic crops may be in Rulindo District and Lake Kivu, but many cafes in Kigali serve this exceptional Rwandan coffee. If you’re looking for a place to unwind or check your emails while sipping the rich goodness of a cup of coffee and enjoying the views of the city, try Pure Africa Coffee Bar in Kimihurura, INZORA, or the newly renovated coffee shop on the terrace of the Kigali Public Library. If you want to learn more about coffee, you can attend Question Coffee’s specialty master class, which takes you through the production, roasting, and brewing processes.

Don’t underestimate the nightlife.

Photo: Repub Lounge

Kigali may be quieter and more reserved than many African cities when it comes to nightlife and partying, but the city still offers many options for a dazzling night out. You can kick off the evening at Flute, a wine bar, and from there make your way toward Repub Lounge, where every Thursday a live instrumental jazz band sets the mood.

Somehow, Kigalians love their pre-weekend party. Also on Thursdays, the garden of Inema Arts Center turns into an open-air extravaganza of dance and music. Also, during your stay in Kigali keep an eye on the Impact Hub co-working space, where different cultural events, workshops, and roundtable discussions are organized frequently.

If you want to explore Kigali like a local, head to the city’s most colorful and diverse neighborhood of Nyamirambo, also known as the Muslim community. What used to feel like a small village back then is now a city within the city. Here, you will find anything from grocery stores, tailor shops, and barbers to local bars and restaurants open until late.

The best thing about Nyamirambo is that no night is similar to the one before it, and the party scene is very spontaneous. Explore Nyamirambo on foot, and don’t hesitate to ask passersby for recommendations. They’ll be happy to suggest some good spots.

Contribute to the local community.

Photo: Nyamirambo women’s center/Facebook

Rwanda is an independent country, and charity isn’t taken lightheartedly. However, local initiatives are always looking for ways to welcome external support and immerse themselves in tourism activities. Kigali offers many opportunities for travelers who wish to engage in community-based tourism while getting a unique insight into the local culture and daily life.

Nyamirambo Women’s Center (NWC) is a Rwandan NGO, which started with 18 women from the Nyamirambo neighborhood standing up against gender-based violence and discrimination. For the past 12 years, NWC has been providing education to underprivileged women and helping them gain better employment opportunities. To support NWC’s work, you can attend a sisal basket weaving workshop or purchase an umutima handmade product; umutima means “heart’’ in Kinyarwanda. You could also take a traditional cooking class, which starts at the local market, continues in the cook’s courtyard, and ends with a shared feast.

See wildlife up close.

Photo: Goran Bogicevic/Shutterstock

While Kigali has much to offer in terms of art and culture, it would be a shame not to explore the nature that surrounds it. Located in the center of Rwanda, the city is an excellent point from where you can hit all corners of the country in a few hours. Nyungwe Forest National Park, the largest protected mountain rainforest in Africa, is believed to have survived the Ice Age without losing its dense greenery. In spite of being slippery and moist, the terrain is accommodating to hikers of all levels. Besides tracking chimpanzees and spotting endemic birds, you should brace yourself for the 650-foot-long canopy walk, 200 feet above the forest ground.

A two-hour drive east of Kigali on the border with Tanzania is Akagera National Park, a stunning ecosystem open to safari trips. You can opt for the conventional game drive to see buffalos, antelopes, giraffes, monkeys, leopards, and hyenas, or you can book the nocturnal experience with the possibility of catching the predators in action hunting for dinner. The boat safari on Lake Ihema takes you to the habitat of the largest hippo community in East Africa and brings you eye to eye with crocodiles.

Appreciate its mountains and gorillas.

Photo: Mary Ann McDonald/Shutterstock

If you do have the chance to get up into the mountains, you should consider ascending to Mount Bisoke, an active volcano in the Virunga Mountains, forming a spectacular crater lake. The hike to the 2,000-mile-high peak is steep and takes about four hours, whereas the descent takes less than two hours. If you prefer an outdoor experience that’s easier on the knees, head to Lake Kivu, near the border of the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

And, if you do indeed have $1,500 to spend on a one-day gorilla permit, look no further than Volcanoes National Park, where the endangered mountain gorilla lives. Now and then, Rwanda is criticized for the expensive wildlife permit — but the high cost regulates the number of visitors to the park, and the impact of human presence on the apes and their natural surroundings. These majestic creatures deserve no less.


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The best way to explore Cinque Terre

The name Cinque Terre simply means “five lands.” This Italian pentad, a UNESCO World Heritage site dating to the 11th century, beguiles travelers with its brightly painted fishing cottages, tucked-in harbors, and high cliffs plunging into the Ligurian Sea. But the question remains how best to take it all in. Rather than hiking from one village to the next, we recommend basing yourself in Vernazza and exploring the captivating area by boat.

Hiking is not a joke.

Photo: Larissa Chilanti/Shutterstock

Four of the five villages overlook the Ligurian Sea; only Corniglia is set back from the water — but all of them are pressed between the mountainside and the sea. Visiting Cinque Terre can prove to be a conundrum. The craggy coastline and surf beckon beachgoers, but the steep mountainside makes the area a major hiking destination.

Sometimes the two activities don’t mix. Recently the Cinque Terre National Park Authority launched a public information campaign warning tourists about the dangers of navigating those precarious paths wearing flip flops or open-toed sandals. Vacationers choosing to ignore their advice can be slapped with a fine ranging from an annoying 50 euros ($56, at today’s rate) to a trip-ruining 2,500 euros, or $2,800.

There’s another way to go. Instead of carrying heavy backpacks and donning hiking shoes to stare at this stretch of the Mediterranean coast from a hiking trail, you could gaze back at the colorful, stacked architecture from the refreshing perspective of the sea.

Base yourself in Vernazza.

Photo: monticello/Shutterstock

Though each of the five villages has its own distinct vibe and personality, we recommend using Vernazza, the fourth town as you are heading north, as a home base while staying in Cinque Terre. Vernazza has one main street that runs from the train station through the town to its harbor and beach. Vernazza is possibly the loveliest of the five towns, with a lively piazza, the 800-year-old Church of St. Margaret of Antioch, and Doria Castle, which was built to protect the city and offers a commanding view of the sea.

You won’t find big resorts in Vernazza, just tiny hotels, rooms, and apartments. Rent an apartment from Cristian Carro, who operates La Marina Rooms. He may well email you plenty of recommendations and advice before you arrive and even meet you at the train station to help you with your luggage and give you a brief tour of his beloved town.

Carro’s best accommodations are an apartment with a sea terrace and another that overlooks Piazza Marconi. Choose the former if you long to sip a chilled glass of Vermentino over the Mediterranean and the latter if you prefer to hang out your window, mark time with the hourly church bells, and peer down at the sunbathers, cafe-goers, and boaters.

Hotel Gianni Franzi is a small hotel in the center of town with single and double rooms, some with sea-facing balconies. The owners also maintain guesthouses nearby that are close to Doria Castle and connected by a garden overlooking the sea. The hotel’s trattoria dates back more than half a century and offers simply prepared seafood dishes like stuffed, salted, or lemon anchovies and fresh catches, grilled or baked. You can also take breakfast on the rooftop terrace. Nearby, La Polena rents four rooms and apartments in the historic center, several of them with water views.

Rent a boat and start exploring.

Photo: SkandaRamana/Shutterstock

Boating is one of the main reasons we recommend Vernazza. The town’s small harbor is dotted not only with swimmers and locals basking on rocks, but with row boats and motorboats. Look for an umbrella-covered table on the waterfront headed up by Nord Est. They will make your Cinque Terre vacation memorable.

You don’t need advance notice to rent one of the outfit’s 19-foot crafts, but it helps — especially during the high season. Two hours will cost about $78, four hours is $100, and all day (eight hours) is roughly $180, depending on the exchange rate. Fuel will be a moderate but additional fee. In just an afternoon you’ll be able to see all of the five villages; rent one for the entire day and you’ll really be able to explore. No sweaty hikes required.

Each is outfitted with a canopy, outboard motor, oars, and storage area. If operating your own watercraft seems a bit daunting, know that your attendant will thoroughly brief you before your trip. Head to one of the convenience stores in town first to stock up on water, beer, wine, and snacks, and wear your bathing suits. You’ll use the oars until you are safely out of the harbor, at which point you’ll be able to zip around at will.

If no one in your party feels confident in captaining a boat themselves, Nord Est also offers boat tours. While you won’t have the freedom of being on your own, the crew will know where to take you to find the hidden coves, bays, and even waterfalls that you can’t reach from up on the hillside.

Where to cruise and where drop anchor

Photo: Fabio Photographer/Shutterstock

Heading south, you’ll first reach Corniglia, that aforementioned village set back from the water. You can gaze up at it from the boat. It is in fact possible to reach the village from down below, but it involves scaling the 377 steps of the Scalinata Lardarina staircase. Next up is Manarola, known for its wine production, followed by the last town, Riomaggiore, the main street of which, Via Colombo, has a fair amount of shops, restaurants, and bars.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can try to dock at Manarola or Riomaggiore. Depending on the day, time of day, or the season, this can be easy or challenging. It helps if you speak Italian or can learn the phrase for, “Is this slip taken? How can I rent it?” That would be “È stata presa questa barca? Come posso noleggiarlo?”

Your best bet for docking and exploring may be the northernmost village of Monterosso al Mare, which is the largest and most touristy and has the biggest port. Cruise ships regularly dock here. You could also drop anchor offshore to partake in some deep water swimming and photo opportunities. Near Riomaggiore is one of the prettiest locations in an area abundant with stunning spots.

After you return to Vernazza in the late afternoon, dinner at Ristorante Belforte is how you’ll want to end the day. Book a table on the terrace well in advance, and over a crisp white and the catch of the day baked in a salt crust, watch the sunset on the same sea you just navigated. Now that’s the Cinque Terre done right.


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National animal conservation status

There are national flags, colors, songs, fruits, dances, and instruments. But arguably the national symbol that most people care about is none of those things. It’s the national animal that gets all the love and interest. Some national animals are well-known as the country’s symbol, such as the United States’ bald eagle. Others are less so, like Uganda’s grey crowned crane. A study by Vouchercloud mapped out every country’s national animal and its conservation status, and the results are surprising.

Mammals come out on top, with 120 of 185 countries picking a mammal as their national symbol. Birds are the next choice, with 52 countries choosing the winged animals. Reptiles only make up three of the world’s representatives, while only two fish and one amphibian make the cut. Rounding out the bunch is a cool, albeit unanticipated, group: mythological creatures. These fabled creatures take seven spots, including a unicorn for Scotland, dragon for Wales, and a white stallion for Burkina Faso.

While some of these animals inspire heart eyes and make us say “aww,” it’s not all rainbows and sunshine. Wildlife conservation as of late seems to be a game of two steps forward, and one step backward, and the national animals are no exception.

Photo: Vouchercloud

Click here to zoom in.

35 of the world’s national animals are “threatened,” with a conservation status of either extinct, critically endangered, or endangered. These include Mauritius’ dodo (extinct), Rwanda’s leopard (critically endangered), and New Zealand’s kiwi (endangered). Another 48 of these animals are “vulnerable,” such as China’s giant panda, Tanzania’s masai giraffe, and Bulgaria’s lion, which means their numbers as susceptible to being threatened and endangered if the problem gets any worse.

Some animals are not a high level concern when it comes to conservation status — think Botswana’s zebra, Boliva’s llama, and Italy’s grey wolf. But while these animals’ numbers seem to be doing well for the most part, that doesn’t mean they should be ignored. To prevent any further decline in status, every animal needs to be looked after with careful consideration.


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How to order pho

Phở is considered the national dish of Vietnam. Along with banh mi, it’s also the dish that people in the US are most familiar with. Or at least familiar enough that they feel comfortable walking into a restaurant and vaguely ordering phở. But just like you wouldn’t walk into a pizza restaurant and ask simply for “pizza,” you shouldn’t be satisfied with one style of phở. There’s a whole world of styles and flavors out there.

Phở can be made with beef, oxtail, chicken, shrimp, pork, vegetables, or anything else that strikes the chef’s fancy. It can use a broth simmered for hours or one that’s been cooking for days. It can be loaded with spices or be light with few toppings. Phở is to Vietnamese cuisine what curries are to Indian cuisine: an endlessly customizable and beloved staple.

“A traditional phở for Vietnamese will basically give them a memory of back home,” said Li Pien, co-owner of PhoBar, a Vietnamese restaurant with two locations in New York City. PhoBar, as the name suggests, focuses on all things phở with a menu that has no less than 15 types of phở, each with the option of an eight-hour broth, 16-hour broth, or 25-hour broth. These long simmered and complex phở broths have historically been part of what makes the dish special.

Photo: Molly Tavoletti

There are competing stories as to when phở was introduced and what influences the first phở drew from. Vietnam’s official tourism website dates it to the late 1800s and the northern city of Nam Dinh. French colonists increased the availability of beef in the region, and food vendors used the excess bones and meat to flavor broth for phở bò, or beef noodle soup. From there, phở migrated north to the capital of Hanoi, where beef took the place of traditional water buffalo in xao trau, a buffalo and rice noodle soup. When phở went south in the 1950s, it was spiced up with hoisin, herbs, and chili.

Other origin stories look to the name for an explanation. One states phở came about as a regional version of the French beef stew pot-au-feu. Another is that it was inspired by Chinese rice noodles, which are called fun in Cantonese. Regardless of how it started, there’s no denying that there are more types of phở than ever before.

Over the past five years, Pien said, people in the US have gained a better understanding of this traditional and historic dish.

“I think now with technology and people being a lot more food savvy thanks to Facebook and Instagram, people are a lot more educated with Vietnamese cuisine,” Pien said. “I think Anthony Bourdain shed a lot of light quite frankly with his episode that he did on it.”

Still, there’s a lot of work to be done in terms of general phở education — especially outside of cities with large Vietnamese communities like San Jose, California, and Houston, Texas.

Common types of phở

Photo: Molly Tavoletti

Phở Hà Nội (or phở bắc): Hanoi, or northern, style of phở that’s simply prepared and considered the original phở. The emphasis here is on the quality of the clear and light broth, so there are few extra garnishes or sauces beyond chili slices and citrus.

Phở Sài Gòn (or phở nam): Saigon, or southern, style of phở that comes with a wide variety of herbs, sauces, and seasonings along with a bowl of broth, meat, and noodles. It’s typically a little sweeter than northern phở, with a less clear broth. When eating, dip the meat into the sauces served on the side.

Phở heo: Pork phở that’s most common in central Vietnam. Typically served with a chunk of pork rather than slices, and comes with a variety of fixings like phở nam does.

Phở bò: Beef broth phở.

Phở ga: Chicken broth phở.

Phở cá: Fish broth phở.

Phở saté: Phở with a chili-peanut-sauce-spiced broth.

Phở ingredients to know

Photo: Molly Tavoletti

Phở is a dish that’s a sum of its many parts. To order, list the ingredients you want or look for a menu option that says the ingredients you wish to have in your bowl.

Nam: Beef flank.

Tái: Thinly sliced raw or rare beef that’s cooked when put in the hot broth, similar to hot pot.

Gầu or chin: Fatty or lean brisket.

Gân: Beef tendon.

Sách: Beef tripe.

Bò viên: Meatballs made with cuts of beef and tendon.

Giá: Bean sprouts.

Chanh: Lemon.

Vôi: Lime.

Húng quế: Basil.

Hành: Onion.

Ngò: Cilantro.

ớt: Chili, most often bird’s eye chili peppers.


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How Sonoma California wine country

Sonoma County, California, covers more than one million acres and 18 American Viticultural Areas. Though it’s just two hours from San Francisco and three from Sacramento, Sonoma tends to operate much like its own planet. That is, if the rest of the world were decimated by the apocalypse (or by sheer wastefulness), this corner of the universe would live on. It would most likely continue to thrive, actually, as pretty much everything you eat and drink here is grown off of the land within the county. And there’s plenty of wine, of course — around 430 wineries, the vast majority of which are family owned and operated. Sonoma’s grape growing industry is wrapping up a five-year mission, launched in 2014, to become the world’s first 100-percent sustainable wine region.

Visiting Sonoma feels like a time warp into both the past and the future, often simultaneously. It takes you back to bygone eras through both its simplicity and its pristine landscapes. The land is comprised of vineyards stretched across rolling hills, orchards shrouded in valleys of towering trees, and colorful plains dotted with barns and rugged coastline. In its purity, the ambiance also gives one a sense of advanced utopia because the entire operation embodies an approach to living from which the rest of the world could stand to learn.

Flying into Santa Rosa (there are direct flights to and from Denver, Portland, Seattle, Dallas, Minneapolis, Phoenix, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Orange County and, new in September, Las Vegas), you arrive into Sonoma’s largest urban area, which feels far from big city life in the typical sense. With a population of around 175,000, Santa Rosa is home to a handful of chain stores and a pair of shopping malls (one of which was visited by a mountain lion this spring, napping in the shrubbery outside of Macy’s), but the majority of its businesses are, like the rest of Sonoma, mom-and-pop shops and, out of necessity, are hyper-aware sustainable operations. Take Spinster Sisters, for example — a hip cafe in the SOFA district with an inspired selection of local wine and ever-changing breakfast, lunch, and dinner options from asparagus quiche to duck liver mousse, local cod to lamb meatballs. This is the kind of spot that would dominate hipster lore in most cities, but around here it’s just the way things are and always have been.

Photo: h2hotel/Facebook

About 15 minutes away along the banks of the Russian River, the small town of Healdsburg is a visitor hub filled with art galleries, restaurants, wine bars, and a few boutique hotels including the new H2, which has sustainability efforts cleverly integrated into just about every aspect. The building is LEED Gold Certified, and once you walk inside there is no plastic to be found. Glasses in the sleek, spacious rooms are cut from wine bottles. Cabinets and counters are rendered from Valchromat (sawdust), a yoga room features a colorful wooden floor procured from a school gymnasium. The first thing you’ll notice, though, is the living roof of greenery and moss, which regulates the building’s temperature. A bioswale was built between the building and the neighboring creek to mitigate water pollution, and guests can help themselves to free water (both still and seltzer) from a fresh tap on each floor.

What it means to be a 100 percent sustainable industry

Photo: Sonoma County Winegrowers/Facebook

Because no other wine region has achieved 100 percent sustainability, knowing exactly what the end result looks like has been one of the main challenges the county has faced. Sonoma has become America’s most sustainable wine region by inserting the locavore mindset into every operational aspect, from food and drink to architecture and hospitality.

The county has defined its sustainability goal in four parts:

Fish-friendly farming
Sustainability certification from the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance
Following Lodi Rules for sustainable winegrowing
Sustainability in Practice (SiP) certification

As for the wineries and their green efforts, “There is no one-size-fits-all approach to sustainability,” said Karissa Kruse, president of Sonoma County Winegrowers, which spearheaded the five-year mission toward 100 percent sustainability. “It is about preserving our local ag lands, collaborating and having the resources available not only to survive but to support farming and our broader community in thriving.”

Backed by the support of the winegrowers association, Sonoma’s vineyards are 97 percent of the way toward meeting the sustainability goal. What’s striking is how everyone you come across is enthusiastically onboard, including families like the Duttons, proprietors of Dutton Estate Winery, which sells wine bottles that feature the region’s official sustainability label and farm using drip irrigation. The winery has installed owl boxes for natural pest control — meaning that yes, you might just see an owl here — and recycles all glass and corks, repurposes barrels, and has expanded housing for vineyard crews.

Employees matter

Photo: U.J. Alexander/Shutterstock

Housing is famously challenging in this region of California, as it is across the state in general, but Sonoma’s community approach has proven beneficial in addressing the problem and developing solutions. The on-site housing at Dutton Estate is a prime example. Another avid proponent of employee lodging is Duff Bevill, known locally as the “Godfather of Sustainability.” Bevill’s vineyard management company works with vineyards across the county to optimize operations for sustainability.

“This effort to become 100 percent certified speaks volumes about our love for the land in Sonoma County, our commitment to environmental stewardship and that we value what is important to our consumers, including being good employers,” Bevill stated on his association profile. In practice, this means bunkhouses for immigrant vineyard employees in the country on H2A Visas (Bevill was required to first offer the jobs to Americans but yielded no interest) and paying $16.34 per hour — more than $4 more than California’s minimum wage.

Wander through the vineyards of Amista, Dry Creek Valley’s only producer of sparkling wine, and arrive at the actual Dry Creek. Amista has resting ponds for spawning salmon along their upstream journeys, and cover crops keep the soil healthy and foster microbial activity. Cover crop implementation is a carbon farming strategy to capture carbon inside plants and soil, improving their health and development while reducing greenhouse gases.

On a knoll overlooking the Russian River Valley, La Crema vineyard, operated by Jackson Family Wines, uses carbon farming. The practice sequesters the carbon produced through daily operation into the soil rather than releasing it into the atmosphere. In addition to the use of cover crops, the property also tills between grape rows to mix organic materials into the soil and control weeds, and produces its own compost.

Over in Alexander Valley, inspired by Sonoma’s sustainability mission, the newly constructed Silver Oak Winery was built to last. “It’s about keeping these sites viable and productive for years to come,” Silver Oak vineyard manager Brad Peterson said about the 113-acre property. Peterson and his team produce 105 percent of their power via solar panels, and feature stylish redwood buildings assembled from recycled material of previous structures. Don’t be surprised if the toilet water is a funky color during your visit — the property collects and recycles all water used at the winery.

Continuing a tradition that began over 100 years ago

Photo: Pedroncelli Winery/Facebook

Sonoma’s efforts toward sustainability predate the last five years of this pointed goal. Italian farmers who settled here in the early 1900s created still-thriving farming operations such as Pedroncelli and Sanchietti Farming, and passed eco-preservation practices down through generations.

“Sustainability is a fancy term today, but we’ve always farmed sustainably,” said third-generation farmer Mel Sanchietti. His farm has never used synthetic fertilizer, and long ago mastered the art of cover crops. Sanchietti makes compost out of grape pomace and manure from the resident horses. The farm also uses LED timer lights in its barns and warehouses, and keeps the property’s 1940s-era tractors in working order. Numerous local properties regularly open their crops to Farm to Pantry, a volunteer group that spends its days (52 per year with a team of 100 volunteers) harvesting fruit and vegetables that would otherwise go unused. They are all distributed to local residents in need.

“The way we all survive is through our family farmers,” Kruse said. “Everything you taste in a glass starts with someone who can’t imagine doing anything else.”


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What makes wild camping different

Wild camping might not be your first thought when it comes to self-care and beating stress. But modern life is draining, and sometimes we need to check in on our basic needs and focus back on the body and mind — easier said than done when you can’t escape from social media notifications and work emails. Sleeping outdoors can put you back in touch with nature, and offer you the headspace you need to refocus.

Wild camping, also called free, freedom, or dry camping involves finding somewhere that isn’t an official campsite, and sleeping there without leaving a trace. While you do need to make sure you’re doing it safely and legally, you’re able to choose exactly where you want to sleep: as close or far from home as you feel comfortable. From the effort you expend to get to your campsite to the joy of completing a challenge, you’ll experience all sorts of proven stress-busting techniques in just one night away from home. Here are a few reasons why wild camping is the ultimate de-stressor.

1. You’ll reconnect to the environment.

Between the car, the office, and the rooms of our homes, many of us spend a lot of time in confined spaces. A lunchtime walk in a built-up environment is great, but it might not make you feel the awesome power of nature in the way you do when you’re lying under a star-flecked sky. Being out in nature has been linked to positive emotions, including feeling a oneness with the universe. Not only does reconnecting with nature offer perspective on our stressors, but it has also been shown to reduce rumination and obsessive thoughts, and it helps you feel powerful emotions like awe, which can lift your mood.

2. You’ll work up a sweat and breathe more deeply.

Not every wild camping trip needs to be an endurance marathon, and a night outside is a refreshing change of scenery even in your own backyard. But adding in some rhythmic exercise, like walking, running, or cycling, is a proven stress-buster. Getting the blood pumping also encourages deep diaphragmatic breathing, which can reduce heart rate and blood pressure, calming you down. Enjoy the natural euphoria of a body pumped with endorphins when you reach your destination and soak up the view.

3. You’ll complete lots of manageable goals.

Stress can make us feel like whatever efforts we are putting in just aren’t enough. If your stress revolves around a to-do list that spawns more items every time you tick something off, set goals for your wild camping trip that are specific, measurable, attainable, realistic, and timely. They might not be easy to complete but they don’t have to be complicated: “reach the top of the hill before the sun goes down” is a perfect example. And if you don’t manage it this time, don’t beat yourself up. The hill will be there for another attempt.

4. No signal, no stress.

Our cell phones can be really bad for our stressed-out brains. Constant swiping through links and ads vying for attention can make us more impulsive, always waiting on the next notification. Smartphone compulsion is even a recognized addition. A digital detox becomes much easier when there’s no signal, and when you’re focussed on the fun you’re having in the moment.

5. You’ll experience some healthy fear at night.

It’s natural to feel scared when you’re bedding down outside, and I still do, especially in the woods as it gets to twilight and the owls start hooting. Fear and anxiety are important survival mechanisms, but chronic stress can increase the number of connections in the brain that enable our fear response, encouraging hypersensitivity for things that cannot really hurt us. Sleeping amongst the animals and being exposed to the weather makes for tangible fears that can be qualified, adjusted for, and accepted or rejected. It’s a real test of bravery that we don’t experience often in our relatively comfortable modern lives.

6. The morning is a time for quiet reflection.

It’s hard not to be present in the moment when you wake up outdoors, quietly reflecting as you bask in your natural surroundings. Being mindful of exactly how you feel and taking time out for yourself is tough at home when there are so many distractions. By stripping all of that away, you give yourself a chance to think about the important things — or think about absolutely nothing at all.


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Youngest climber at The Nose

The Nose, a 3,000-foot stretch of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, is among the world’s most famous rock climbing routes. Climbers train for years to tackle the 31 separate pitches of The Nose. On June 12, every climber to ever attempt the route was shown up — by a 10-year-old. Selah Schneiter of Glenwood Springs, Colorado, became the youngest person ever to climb The Nose, reaching the top at 5:45 PM after a five-day stint with her father, Mike Schneiter, and a family friend. Prior to Schneiter, the youngest climber was Scott Nory, who first climbed The Nose at age 11 back in 2001.

Selah Schneiter’s parents are renowned rock climbers, having met while climbing El Capitan. Her father owns a climbing guide service in Glenwood Springs, and Selah first visited Yosemite at just two months old. She is one of four children. “I was scared just sometimes,” she told Outside about ascending the famous route. “I thought it was really fun.” Selah led portions of the climb. Her first request after reaching the top? Pizza. “I’ve been dreaming about it forever.”

“Selah’s still learning how to lead trad, but she’s been picking up big-wall skills for quite a while,” her mother Joy Schneiter said to Outside. “I was worried about her capacity to do that much work with such a small body. But I knew that Mike would keep her safe. I’m really proud of her.”

El Capitan is a massive granite flatiron face standing over 7,500 feet in elevation at its peak. In 2017, professional climber Alex Honnold became the first to free solo the monolith, ascending the face in three hours and 56 minutes. The feat serves as the plot anchor for the 2018 documentary Free Solo.

H/T: Outside

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