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October 3, 2019

Best things to do in Crested Butte

Crested Butte doesn’t have the flashy main street of other Colorado mountain towns like Telluride or Aspen. Although it was intended to be a mining town, Crested Butte never struck the precious metals that some of these other mountain sites throughout the state found. Instead, it relied on an economy based around coal. Instead, Crested Butte preserved its laid-back, down-to-earth vibe.


On the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains, Crested Butte lies in a vast valley that serves as the foreground to a backdrop of 14,000-foot peaks. The area is a world-class destination for mountain biking, fly fishing, rock climbing, hiking, skiing and overall outdoor adventure. And while Crested Butte is by no means undiscovered, it remains largely off the radar of crowds heading to Summit County and Colorado’s Front Range. Its location four hours southwest of Denver and minutes from the Gunnison-Crested Butte Regional Airport make it a viable alternative to Colorado’s more popular eastern towns.


It’s heaven for mountain bikers.

Photo: Arina P Habich/Shutterstock


With over 750 miles of single-track mountain bike trails and counting, Crested Butte is a paradise for riders of all ability levels. The Crested Butte resort has 30 miles of lift-served downhill trails intertwined with cross-country trails — most of which connect with the area’s endless network of legendary trails.


At the resort, steep and technical trails mix with low-angle, machine-built flow trails. Awakening and Lower Awakening are great machine-built trails, perfect for those just getting into biking or for the more advanced rider looking for a warm-up.


Once you’re ready to leave the resort and head to some of the nearby cross-country trails, be sure to check out the Lupine Trail, which, like it’s name suggests, is engulfed by wildflowers in the late spring and into summer. This trail can be linked with the Lower Loop Trail to get back into town, where you’ll often find locals having a beer on the patio of The Brick Oven or pizza in the basement of The Secret Stash. From there, a shuttle bus offers service back to the resort.


There is world-class fly fishing minutes away.

Photo: Teri Virbickis/Shutterstock


The 164-mile Gunnison River, which is a tributary of the Colorado River, forms at the confluence of the Taylor and East Rivers in Almont, just outside of Crested Butte. Anglers head to the Gunnison in search of brown, rainbow, and lake trout. In the fall, the Gunnison experiences one of the largest kokanee salmon runs in Colorado, drawing fly fisherman from all over the state.


There are a number of guide services in the area surrounding Crested Butte. Three Rivers Resort, located in Almont, offers both wading and float trips on the upper stretch of the Gunnison. In a single fall day, it is not uncommon to catch rainbow and brown trout, salmon, and possibly an occasional cutthroat trout.


It’s close to some of the country’s wildest rock climbing.

Photo: Arlene Waller/Shutterstock


The Black Canyon was carved two million years ago by the Gunnison River, leaving steep walls exceeding 2,700 feet at their deepest point. The 48-mile long canyon — 14 miles of which are encompassed by the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park — offers intimidating yet exhilarating rock climbing, as well as remote hiking, camping, and fishing.


Only those with prior experience should attempt to climb in the Black Canyon due to its high level of commitment and advanced routes. Even experienced climbers should consider hiring an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) — a certified guide who knows the area and is comfortable navigating difficult terrain. Crested Butte-based Irwin Guides offers a variety of guided climbs in the Black Canyon.


For those looking for an introductory climbing experience, Irwin Guides also offers trips to smaller climbing areas close to Crested Butte, like Taylor Canyon and Hartman Rocks, both of which have a variety of beginner routes to choose from.


When hiring a mountain guide, whether it be for rock or ice climbing, skiing or climbing your first Colorado 14er, it is important to make sure they are certified by the AMGA. This internationally recognized certification will ensure your guide is competent and comfortable in the activity they are guiding.


You can’t beat hiking in the “Wildflower Capital of Colorado.”

Photo: bjovaag/Shutterstock


Crested Butte is surrounded by the 1.6 million-acre Gunnison National Forest, which is home to seven designated wilderness areas and, during springtime and early summer, countless beautiful wildflowers. The nearby Almont and Taylor Canyons offer plenty of multi-use trails with views of the surrounding mountains and unique rock formations, making it the perfect place for a short day hike.


If you’re looking to bag a higher summit, Mount Crested Butte’s 12,168-foot peak yields panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and towns. There are a number of routes to the summit; the shortest (yet among the steepest) of which starts from the top of the Silver Queen lift at the Crested Butte Mountain Resort. This two-mile hike can be extended by starting at the base of the mountain rather than using the lift.


There are also plenty of 14ers around Crested Butte, although many require at least a two-hour drive to reach the trailhead. If heading south to bag one of the summits in the San Juan Mountains, like Uncompahgre or the Wetterhorn, consider spending a night in Lake City, which is a tranquil small town with plenty of restaurants, boutiques, and lodging options, perfect as a base before attempting one of these higher summits. It is important to be hiking back to the car by the early afternoon to avoid potential storms, especially during the summer.


Some call it the last great ski town of the West.

Photo: Paul Antonescu/Shutterstock


Regardless of whether or not you agree, one thing is for sure: The skiing at Crested Butte rivals the best at any of the state’s premier resorts. With 1,547 skiable acres and an annual snowfall averaging 234 inches, skiers and riders of all abilities will be kept busy for days.


Crested Butte was recently purchased by Vail Resorts, allowing Epic Passholders to enjoy the large variety of terrain. Despite this purchase, the town, which is a few miles from the resort itself, will maintain the unique Western feel that sets it apart from so many of Colorado’s popular ski towns.


More like this: Black Hawk, Colorado, is a mini Las Vegas in the mountains


The post Hit up Crested Butte, Colorado, for adventure without the flash appeared first on Matador Network.


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Published on October 03, 2019 16:30

What to do in Slovenia after Bled

It’s remarkable how quickly an itinerary fills up once you factor in a destination’s must-sees, which, like cliches, got that way for a reason. Striking a balance between seeing the iconic sights and discovering the hidden gems is particularly challenging on shorter trips — as is often the case in Europe, where travelers approach countries with a buy-one-get-one-free mentality.


In Slovenia, a nation roughly the size of New Jersey, you could cram the highlights into a side trip from Italy, Austria, or Croatia, but you’d be doing yourself a disservice by skimming one of Europe’s most scenery-rich countries. If you can, take your time traveling between lakes, caves, and mountains; seaside towns or ski resorts, depending on the season; and the historic settlements in between. Even if you are just passing through, remember: There’s more to Slovenia than Lake Bled.


Ljubljana is bigger than its old town.

Photo: hbpro/Shutterstock


Ljublana’s city center is everything you want an old town to be. Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings, many of them pastel, flank pedestrian streets that converge in open squares. The Ljubljanica River cuts through the middle, beside which cafes open their patios when it’s warm, and a series of bridges stitches the two sides back together. It’s dreamy, but it’s also misleading.


Ljubljana isn’t the sleepy capital its old town would have you believe. Slovenia’s oldest and largest university, attended by some 40,000 students, sits on the edge of the city center. Accordingly, Ljubljana has all the trappings of a student city: punky art centers, pubs and clubs, a relatively low cost of living. It’s creative and forward-thinking without being aggressively hip, even more so now that new startups have brought young professionals onto the scene.


The alternative and nightlife-loving crowds cross paths at Metelkova Mesto, a former squat in an old army barracks that’s grown into a massive cultural center and entertainment venue. Stop by if you like DJs, LGBT club events, stage shows, art exhibits, and headquarters covered head to toe in graffiti. Fans of performance art and repurposed spaces will also enjoy Stara Elektrarna, or the Old Power Station, a venue located in a former power plant that stages plays, dance productions, concerts, and eclectic one-off events throughout the year.


Not to be written off as a party city, Ljubljana was named the European Green Capital in 2016. Its largest park, Tivoli, stretches 1,000 acres beginning just outside the old town. In the center, the Jakopič Promenade designed by Jože Plečnik, who’s considered Ljubljana’s architect much like Gaudí’s credited with designing Barcelona, doubles as an open-air venue for photography exhibits. Tivoli Castle, a mansion turned graphic arts center, serves as the promenade’s terminus. Another stately residence, the Cekin Mansion, now houses a history museum.


Just past Špica, a riverside park that’s popular with picnickers, you’ll find even more flora at the Ljubljana Botanic Garden. More than 4,500 species to be specific. With a bit more time, and preferably a car, you can also make your way to Radomlje, about 20 minutes away on the outskirts of the city. Here, you’ll find over 200 acres of gardens, water features, walking paths, and some 3,500 plant species at the Volčji Potok Arboretum.


Spend less time in cafes and more time at restaurants.

Photo: Bumble Dee/Shutterstock


There is one good reason to hang around the old town: the food. Ljubljana’s cafes get a lot of love from tourists on break from sightseeing, but the city’s restaurant scene, largely concentrated in the center, doesn’t always get the attention it deserves. In part, it’s because Slovenian cuisine is still a question mark for most — though that’s starting to change.


In 2017, Slovenian chef and star of a Chef’s Table episode Ana Roš was named the World’s Best Female Chef by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, bringing the food she grew up on into the limelight with her. As a crossroads of Slavic, Germanic, and Mediterranean culture, Slovenia has a rich and varied culinary tradition, rewarding those who embrace it with the zeal of a pizza lover in Naples with everything from Istrian prosciutto to kielbasa-like Carniolan sausage. Though Roš’s restaurant, Hiša Franko, is located a couple of hours outside the capital, she does co-own a restaurant called Gostilna Na Gradu inside Ljubljana’s castle complex, where you’ll also find fine dining at Strelec Restaurant in the Archer’s Tower.


Elsewhere in the old town, Roš has endorsed Pop’s Place, a burger and craft-beer bar that also slings killer cocktails, and Bistro Monstera, maybe the best breakfast place in the entire city. For a casual yet romantic spot with a Mediterranean menu and excellent wine pairings, try Julija.


Dodge the Postojna Caves crowds at another cave system just 20 miles away.

Photo: Andywand/Shutterstock


Slovenia’s 15-mile Postojna cave system is impressively roomy, but the usual sea of visitors won’t do claustrophobes any favors. Not even half an hour away is another cave system that’s smaller yet just as significant, scoring a UNESCO World Heritage nod with just four miles of karst caves. One of the largest subterranean canyons in the world, the Škocjan cave system is an equally important archaeological site, showcasing relics of a human history dating back to the Mesolithic period. Guided tours are possible throughout the year either just through the canyon or through the canyon and beyond, following along the underground Reka River.


Bled isn’t the only lake. It’s not even the best one.

Photo: Minoli/Shutterstock


It wouldn’t be fair to call Lake Bled overrated. It really is as striking as it sounds, with blue-green waters surrounding an island topped with a sweet little church and Bled Castle perched on a cliff to one side. In the distance, the Julian Alps watch over it all.


Neither would it be fair, however, to gloss over how packed it can get. Between the curated tourist circuit and mobs of people, not to mention its very own Disney Castle, Lake Bled can feel like part of a theme park during peak travel season.


Lake Bohinj, fewer than 20 miles away, is considerably larger than Lake Bled. It’s also less crowded and, some might argue, even more beautiful. Fed by the Savica Waterfall, Lake Bohinj is located in Triglav National Park, the only national park in Slovenia. Budget time to explore while there, exploring everything from the Soča river to Mount Triglav itself. In between, sprinkle in cultural sites like the Church of St John the Baptist or Alpine Dairy Farming Museum.


Still, there are hundreds of lakes in Slovenia, and they definitely get more remote than the first and second most-visited. There’s Lake Jasna in the northwest corner of the country and heart-shaped Lake Planšar near the Austrian border. Even the country’s largest lake, Cerknica, is less touristy than Lake Bled, granted it’s only full part of the year, after the rain starts to pick up during fall. Lake Bohinj is the largest permanent lake.


The cream cake is good, but don’t skip the ice cream.

Photo: VIGÒ Ice Cream Ljubljana/Facebook


Let’s face it: No matter what we say, you’re probably going to visit Lake Bled, where you’ll see signs for the famous Bled cream cake every few feet following the footpath from the boat dock to the paddleboard area across the lake. Kremna rezina is a tall, two-toned block of custard and cream sandwiched between thin, flaky pastry. It’s a tasty, if overwhelming, dessert, but it doesn’t hold a candle to Slovenia’s other favorite sweet: ice cream.


Both my Airbnb host and several Slovenes I met answered simply with “ice cream” when asked about the best things in Slovenia. Most agreed on two things: the ice cream stand on Bled Island is better than any cafe peddling cream cake, and Vigo has the best ice cream in all of Ljubljana. With flavors like lemongrass, white peach, white chocolate with pomegranate, and mascarpone with nutella, not to mention a full-on chocolate sauce tap, it’s easy to see why.


Don’t forget Slovenia’s sliver of coast.

Photo: RossHelen/Shutterstock


Blink and you might miss Slovenia’s riviera. It’s there, just barely separating Italy from Croatia, but if you didn’t know better, you might mistake it for one of its neighboring nations’ more famous coasts. In fact, the three countries share the Istria Peninsula, which stretches from the Gulf of Venice to the Kvarner Gulf in Croatia, including Slovenia’s mere 30 miles of shoreline.


Koper is the largest town in Slovene Istria and an active port with a nice enough old town. Most head farther south, however, past fishing town and solid budget option Izola to pretty Piran, where you can fill entire days winding through the Venetian Gothic old town; lazing on small, rocky beaches; and devouring sinful amounts of ice cream, wine, and fresh seafood along with Mediterranean views. What the next town south, Portorož, sacrifices in charm, it makes up for in plush hotels, spas and wellness centers, and clubs and casinos if that’s your thing. Piran and Portorož are the most popular choices for weekenders, so expect crowds in July and August.


Or its historic wine country.

Photo: Matic Stojs Lomovsek/Shutterstock


If Slovenia’s riviera has been overshadowed by Italy’s beaches, then its wine country has been totally eclipsed. Yet according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest fruit-bearing vine in the world lives in Maribor, Slovenia’s second-largest city. No harm in visiting the museum that the 400-year-old vine now clings to, but when it’s time to taste, head to the Goriška Brda wine region. Here, hills braided with vines like those in Tuscany roll toward the Italian border, sharing the land with orchards and settlements established long ago.


Plan to visit Dobrovo before setting off for the wine roads. All the information on the wineries and villages to see is available at the Renaissance-era Dobrovo Castle, beneath which you can visit the co-op Goriška Brda Wine Cellar at the Klet Brda Winery to warm up your tastebuds. While touring the wine roads, counterbalance your tastings by sampling locally made olive oil and cheese. And if cherries are in season, have some.


Lean into the wellness scene.

Photo: Terme Olimia/Facebook


Thermal spas have existed in Slovenia far longer than Slovenia itself has existed. Romans built baths around the hot springs, whose mineral-rich waters are said to be healing. The tradition is alive and well, with no shortage of spas and wellness centers for visitors to choose from, but Terme Olimia is a safe recommendation for all types of travelers.


Pamper yourself with indoor and outdoor pools, Finnish saunas, and relaxing treatments at the Wellness Orhidelia center, complete with mood music and lighting. Or, during summer, bring your kids to the Thermal Park Aqualuna for water slides, wave pools, and more. If you make it to the coast, Terme Portorož is another favorite, offering Shakti ayurveda and thalasso centers, multiple saunas, massage and relaxation areas, and more.


Slovenia’s gorgeous in summer, but it’s magic in winter.

Photo: Vogel Ski Center/Facebook


All this talk of a coast like Amalfi’s and a wine country like Tuscany’s certainly hints at a summer trip. Ljubljana may be livelier when the sun’s out, save during its Christmas market, but come winter the surrounding Alps are a playground for skiers, both alpine and cross country. Get a SkiPass for access to the best resorts, including popular Kranjska Gora and family-friendly Cerkno. Some say Vogel, the only resort in Triglav National Park, offers the prettiest scenery.


Not far from Kranjska Gora in the Planica Valley, a different breed of skier can be spotted launching from ski jumping hills at the Planica Nordic Center. The valley is world-famous for ski jumping, partially owing to the nordic center’s Letalnica bratov Gorišek flying hill, which is among the steepest in the world. As for sporting events, the Biathlon World Cup is held in Slovenia’s Pokljuka Plateau every year.


More like this: Why Slovenia should be a mandatory stop on your next trip to Europe


The post Everything you’ll miss in Slovenia if you only see Lake Bled appeared first on Matador Network.


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Published on October 03, 2019 15:30

Cruise ship rooms for Tokyo Olympics

The 2020 Olympic Games come to Tokyo, Japan, next summer, and hotel rooms in the area are already filling up. With 15,000 athletes and over 600,000 foreign visitors expected to come to the city for the games, the Nikkei Asian Review reported that even basic, run-of-the-mill hotels are charging over $600 per night, per person. The city is staring at a 14,000-room shortfall for the duration of the games. Even Tokyo’s notorious capsule hotels, which put sleepers in tight but efficient confines and typically run around $20-30 per night, are offering rates in excess of $100 while the Olympics are in town.


Between the crowds, the price gouging, and Tokyo’s already frenetic pace of life, what’s a traveler left to do in their search for housing during the Olympic games? One option is to rent a cabin on a cruise ship. The city plans to park a massive ship at Yokohama Port during the games to combat the shortage of hotel rooms. Japanese regulations require all hotel rooms to have a window, but an amendment put in place last year allows for exemptions during major events. If you’re heading to the Olympics next year and haven’t yet booked lodging, an inner-ship stateroom might be your best option — unless, of course, you’re open to the idea of crashing on the floor in one of Tokyo’s 24-hour cyber cafes. Rooms on the cruise ship are expected to cost between $270 and $2,700 per night, depending on amenities and location on the ship.


Tourism in Japan has boomed this year, with the country easing its strict Airbnb policy in order to accommodate the surge in traffic. The country’s tourism bureau reported three million visitors in July of 2019, a 5.9 percent increase over the same month in 2018. Tokyo’s cruise ship will include restaurants, an onboard theater, and other entertainment offerings available to guests. The idea of using cruise ships as floating hotels was previously tried by the city of Vancouver, British Columbia, which hosted the winter games in 2010, charging upwards of $650 per night for a room, though that cost did include dining onboard the ship.


More like this: A Flat Earth Cruise will sail to the ‘edge of the world’ in 2020


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Published on October 03, 2019 15:00

Woman enters Bronx Zoo lion's den

Zoo visits are all fun and games until someone jumps into the lion enclosure. Over the weekend, a woman hopped the barrier to the lion enclosure at the Bronx Zoo, putting herself, zoo staff, and the lions in danger. Thankfully, the incident did not result in injury.


The daredevil has been identified as 32-year-old Brooklyn resident Myah Autry, who was previously arrested for trespassing in West Burlington, Iowa, according to the New York Post. Instagram videos of Autry’s latest stunt show her taunting a lion by waving her arms and dancing around just a few feet away. In her video, she can be heard saying, “I want to get closer to them” while climbing over the barrier. At the time of publishing, the video is still on her Instagram with a lengthy caption claiming, “I REALLY HAVE NO FEAR OF NOTHING.” Autry also posted other videos from the lion’s den incident, along with a video that appears to show her in a giraffe enclosure.














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Expectedly, the Bronx Zoo has condemned Autry’s antics, telling CNN, “Barriers and rules are there to keep both visitors, staff, and animals safe. We have a zero-tolerance policy on trespass and violation of barriers.” Given the ease with which visitors can climb over the barrier, there is some concern that more of these stunts will occur in the future, despite the possibility of injury or death for anyone who enters the enclosure. These incidents could also result in the euthanization of the animal, as anyone who followed the Harambe scandal will remember.


Though no arrests have been made following the incident this Saturday, police are currently looking for Autry, who faces trespassing charges.


More like this: 11 hotels where you can ethically play with animals


The post Woman who climbed into lion’s den at Bronx Zoo for Instagram faces trespassing charges appeared first on Matador Network.


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Published on October 03, 2019 14:30

Best fall wellness vacations in USA

Refreshing as it is, fall can be stressful. Vacations are over, school has resumed, all those Friday happy hours are starting to catch up, and to top it all off, daylight savings is throwing your circadian rhythm into a total frenzy. Now is certainly not the time to go jetting off to some wellness retreat. Then again, maybe it is.


Colorado’s Rocky Mountains are doused in autumnal colors this time of year, and the desert oases of the American Southwest are just beginning to cool down. The postcard-worthy scenes that blanket the Smokies and New England make for soothing backdrops for post-summer detoxing. These fall wellness vacations are guaranteed to reset you after a season of indulging, and give you the energy to delve into the holidays with a positive, grounded attitude.


1. For a female-exclusive atmosphere: Rustic Women’s Retreat in Yosemite

Photo: blazg/Shutterstock


Yosemite is the sixth most-visited national park in the country, attracting more than 600,000 people during the month of August alone. Visitation starts to dwindle during September, and by November, it decreases to nearly a quarter of its busiest month. This small window between summer’s tourist season and the snow season is Yosemite’s sweet spot.


The park’s colossal granite walls, waterfalls, big-leaf maple trees, and wildlife provide a peaceful backdrop for the Rustic Women’s Retreat held by KOLIBRIRETREATS. This four-day, female-exclusive experience held November 15-18 is what the organizers call “an opportunity to restore and reflect before the holidays.” Participants spend three nights in a picturesque mountain cabin, which acts as a home base for group hikes and daily yoga and wellness workshops.


Where: Yosemite National Park, California


2. For seeing fall foliage without the crowds: Blackberry Farm in Tennessee

Photo: Blackberry Farm/Facebook


The Great Smoky Mountains are like a scene from a fall calendar when mid-October rolls around. People flock to the Tennessee countryside to watch the sugar maples and sweetgums turn from lush green to golden and auburn this time of year. Blackberry Farm — a small, luxurious hotel in Walland — borders the national park, promising a quiet oasis away from the hordes of leaf peepers.


Rather than follow the masses on the popular fall foliage drives, guests at Blackberry Farm are able to tour the colors on two wheels instead of four. Trek Travel is a four- or six-day cycling trip that winds through the Smokies’ less-touristy spots, finishing each day with a gourmet meal and a glass of wine. Tours begin on September 22, September 29, and October 13.


Where: 1471 West Millers Cove Road, Walland, TN 37886


3. For luxury at a fair price: Omega Institute in New York

Photo: Omega Institute/Facebook


A two-hour drive from Manhattan in the Hudson Valley, the New York outpost of Omega Institute is a nonprofit that provides holistic education, multi-day workshops and wellness retreats that have been likened to summer camp for adults. But even though the Rhinebeck campus is only open May through October, summer isn’t necessarily the best time to visit; it most certainly isn’t the cheapest. During the months of September and October, Omega waives the fee for its Rest & Rejuvenation Retreat, a customizable add-on experience that can include yoga and meditation classes, access to the holistic library, art classes, concerts, or whatever you choose.


Where: 150 Lake Dr, Rhinebeck, NY 12572


4. For a music festival with a wellness focus: Bhakti Fest in California

Photo: Bhakti Fest/Facebook


Music festivals aren’t always conducive to mental wellbeing and good health. This one by The Bhakti Fest Group, however, is drug and alcohol free. Instead, guests are required to bring a yoga mat. Taking place in Twentynine Palms on the outskirts of Joshua Tree National Park during late September, which is about the only time one can comfortably visit the desert, Bhakti Fest is a combination of sacred Kirtan music, yoga, and meditation. Retro campers and yurts on the property offer an Instagram-worthy glamping experience, and rest assured, there’s no shortage of vegetarian food.


Where: 4733 Desert Knoll Ave., Twentynine Palms, CA 92277


5. For refocusing on fitness: Moab Mindful Running Retreat in Utah

Photo: Run Wild Retreats & Wellness/Facebook


Temperatures are just beginning to drop to a reasonable range in the Southwest, so make use of the comfortable climate while you can. Utah’s famed sandstone cliffs and spires are especially abundant in Moab, where a Mindful Running Retreat takes place at the end of every October. The four-day program is a perfect opportunity to explore the area’s one-of-a-kind arches and petroglyph-adorned rock walls on foot. The trainers act as cheerleaders who remind runners to practice self-compassion, train with intention, and run with confidence throughout the day.


Where: Moab, Utah


6. For recharging in the mountains: SunMountain Center in Colorado

Photo: SunMountain Center/Facebook


It’s no New England, but the Colorado Rockies run a close second to the Northeast when it comes to leaf-peeping. The aspens on this Midwestern range turn a fiery hue starting in mid-September and fall from the trees early at high altitude. The Rest Retreat with yoga teacher Nikki Banks is timed just right for this spectacle, taking place in early October in the foothills of the Front Range, just south of Denver.


SunMountain calls itself a “creative sanctuary” for its array of artistic retreats (case in point: mandala making). The fall Rest Retreat is an opportunity to, well, rest in the midst of a famously busy season. The three-night event features farm tours, soaks in mineral springs, gemstone bracelet making, and more.


Where: 328 El Paso Blvd, Manitou Springs, CO 80829


7. For those who want to work for their wine: California Wine Country Bike Tour

Photo: Backroads/Facebook


Fall is the best time to visit the world-famous vineyards of Northern California, seeing as October is harvest time. Backroads’ five-day bike tours through Napa, Sonoma, the Redwoods, and the Pacific Coast is a unique opportunity to see vineyard hands collecting fruit from the vines while also taking plenty of breaks from pedaling to taste-test the wines.


For bike lovers and wine aficionados alike, this cycling tour showcases the California wine region (and its moody coast and giant trees) during prime time — no tour buses needed.


Where: Napa, California


8. For an all-encompassing experience: Well + Good’s Retreat in Arizona

Photo: Miraval Resorts/Facebook


Wellness retreats are niche by nature. There are events catered to exclusively to runners, yogis, and people who want to focus solely on eating healthy, but this retreat features a little bit of everything. The wellness brand’s series of retreats, which take place at Miraval Resorts around the country, offer workouts, cooking experiences, and a healthy dose of yoga, all catered to young affluent women. The latest takes place in Tucson, Arizona — a wildly popular wellness destination — from October 17 to 20.


Where: 5000 East, E Vía Estancia Miraval, Tucson, AZ 85739


More like this: 5 amazing Northern California wellness destinations


The post These fall wellness retreats are exactly what you need to reset this season appeared first on Matador Network.


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Published on October 03, 2019 12:30

The best pumpkin festivals in the US

Fall means pumpkin everything. Pumpkin beer, pumpkin pie, pumpkin spice lattes — the only steadfast rule for food in fall is that everything that can be pumpkin-ized will be. Maybe you love it, maybe you’re part of the anti-pumpkin-spice brigade. Regardless, fall is here and the pumpkins are unavoidable, so the best thing to do is just embrace it. And there’s no better way to celebrate the season’s most famous gourd than at a pumpkin festival. These are the biggest and most noteworthy pumpkin festivals across the US to hit up this season.


1. New Hampshire Pumpkin Festival — Laconia, New Hampshire
NH Pumpkin Festival

Photo: NH Pumpkin Festival/Facebook


Unless you’ve been to the New Hampshire Pumpkin Festival, there’s a good chance you’ve never seen a 34-feet-tall jack-o’-lantern tower. The tower is the highlight of the two-day festival that attracts more than 40,000 people (and, yes, you can contribute to the tower for a $10 fee). Other attractions include a zombie walk, over 60 food and craft vendors, live music, a beer garden, numerous fall competitions, and a 10K and 5K run.


When: Friday, October 18 and Saturday, October 19


Where: Downtown Laconia, NH


2. Great Pumpkin Farm festivals — Clarence, New York
The Great Pumpkin Farm

Photo: The Great Pumpkin Farm/Facebook


While pumpkin smashing is generally discouraged, pumpkin launching is rewarded at the Great Pumpkin Farm. The farm hosts pumpkin-filled events every weekend through Halloween, and one of the main attractions is the annual trebuchet contest. Local high schoolers build catapults and compete to see who can launch a pumpkin the farthest, with some sending pumpkins flying as far as 2,000 feet. Other festival activities include largest pumpkin weigh-offs, tractor rides, races, shows, costume contests, and plenty of fall food.


When: Every weekend in October


Where: 11199 Main Street, Clarence, NY


3. Ginormous Pumpkin Regatta — South Jordan, Utah
People in pumpkin boats

Photo: LiveDAYBREAK Community Council/Facebook


Pumpkins as big as boats hit Utah’s Oquirrh Lake every October. As big as boats, and literally boats. During the Ginormous Pumpkin Regatta competitors carve pumpkins with chainsaws to create makeshift, kayak-like boats. Then they take to the water for a race in which not all pumpkins make it to the finish line before sinking. The race is an all-day event with a petting zoo, traditional pumpkin carving, food trucks, and a pie-eating contest.


When: October 19


Where: North Shore of Oquirrh Lake, South Jordan, UT


4. World Champion Pumpkin Weigh-Off — Half Moon Bay, California
Person sitting on a pumpkin

Photo: Safeway World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off/Facebook


Bigger is better at California’s World Champion Pumpkin Weigh-Off. Growers from around the state and country haul their largest gourds to Half Moon Bay to try to win the title of the biggest of the big. The winner gets paid $7 per pound, and if it is big enough for a new world record, an additional $30,000. Considering 2018’s winner Steve Daletas had a 2,170-pound pumpkin, that’s a big payday. Other competitions include the most beautiful pumpkin and the biggest California pumpkin. The judging occurs on October 14, when you can watch as forklifts place the pumpkins on a scale with a five-ton limit. See the winners and take some pictures the following weekend during the pumpkin festival on Half Moon Bay’s Main Street, which also features food vendors, arts and crafts, and events.


When: October 14, 19, 20


Where: I.D.E.S. Grounds, 735 Main Street, Half Moon Bay, CA


5. Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze — Pocantico Hills, New York
The Great Jack O'Lantern Blaze

Photo: The Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze/Facebook


Every year, the 18th-century Van Cortlandt Manor in Croton-on-Hudson is decked out with more than 7,000 hand-carved jack-o’-lanterns. It takes about an hour to walk through all of the pumpkin exhibits, which include pumpkin paintings, a 25-foot-tall pumpkin Statue of Liberty, a carousel, and a Pumpkin Planetarium. It takes more than 1,000 people to scoop out and carve all of the pumpkins that decorate the organized walk, which is called the Blaze. Some popular pieces from last year included zodiac signs, a castle, and the Pumpkin Zee Bridge.


When: Weekends through the end of November


Where: 639 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY 10591


6. Damariscotta Pumpkinfest & Regatta — Damariscotta, Maine
Pumpkin art

Photo: Damariscotta Pumpkinfest and Regatta/Facebook


A pumpkin festival with an educational twist, the Damariscotta Pumpkinfest promotes agricultural science and fundraising — particularly when it comes to growing giant pumpkins. It started with a race in 2007 between two giant pumpkins carved into boats, and has turned into a multi-day festival that attracts tens of thousands of people. There’s a giant pumpkin weigh-off, a carved pumpkin display, a pie-eating contest, a pumpkin-on-wheels derby, and a 180-foot pumpkin drop for people who really like to watch pumpkins explode. There’s also pumpkin races using the giant pumpkins as boats powered by paddles or motors.


When: October 5, 12, and 14


Where: Midway between Portland and Rockland. Directions on the official website


7. Great Pumpkin Carve — Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania
Carved pumpkin

Photo: The Great Pumpkin Carve of Chadds Ford/Facebook


We can’t all be great pumpkin carvers, but that doesn’t mean we can’t appreciate the skill it takes to turn a giant orange gourd into a work of art. Chadds Ford’s Great Pumpkin Carve is a three-day event where you can watch carvers work their magic before more than 70 pumpkins are lit up and displayed. Each of the pumpkins weigh between 150 and 400 pounds, and are grown on a nearby farm. The public carving dates back to the 1970s, and has grown every year. A haunted trail, hay rides, live music, and local craft beer and wine entertain when you’re done watching the carving.


When: October 17-19


Where: 1736 Creek Road, Chadds Ford, PA 19317


8. Pumpkin Show — Circleville, Ohio
Circleville Pumpkin Show

Photo: Circleville Pumpkin Show, Inc./Facebook


Dating back to 1903, Circleville’s Pumpkin Show is one of the oldest pumpkin-centric festivals in the US. It’s now a massive extravaganza with multiple parades (including a dog and baby parade) and a competition for the largest pumpkin, as well as plenty of food, drinks, art, and live entertainment.


When: October 15-19


Where: 159 East Franklin Street Circleville, OH 43113


More like this: 11 classic pumpkin recipes from around the world


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Published on October 03, 2019 11:30

Trump adds 25 percent tariff

If you fell in love with certain meats, cheeses, and wines on your last trip to Europe, finding those products at home could soon get a lot more expensive. On October 2, President Donald Trump announced a 25 percent tariff on goods like French wine, Scotch whisky, and pork products that’s set to take effect on October 18.


You can find the full 23-page list of goods Trump is threatening to add a new tariff on here. Much is in the luxury category, which happens to also include the food and drinks we fall in love with when traveling. This includes things like salami, yogurt, cookies, sausage, coffee, cheese, whiskey, wine, Champagne, olives, fruit, brandies like Cognac — you get the point.


Food and beverages are simply caught in the crosshairs of the dispute, which is actually about airplanes. It all goes back to 2004, a simpler time when Trump was working on the first season of The Apprentice and new trade wars weren’t weekly news. That year, the European Union claimed the US gave Boeing $19 billion in subsidies between 1989 and 2006 that unfairly hurt competition. Shortly after, the US claimed the EU did the same for Airbus. The World Trade Organization agrees with both the US and the EU, saying both Boeing and Airbus subsidies violated WTO rules.


The latest tariffs are purportedly designed to match the monetary loss that the EU’s subsidies caused to the US economy and US companies like Boeing. The WTO puts the value of that loss at $7.5 billion.


All hope isn’t lost. According to Reuters, the US Trade Representative’s Office will “continually re-evaluate these tariffs based on our discussions with the EU.” The list is shorter than the original tariff of 100 percent on $25 billion of goods that was discussed in September.


“When the EU ends these harmful subsidies, the additional US duties imposed in response can be lifted,” a government representative told CNN in a statement.


Even if the tariffs don’t happen, uncertainty is hurting the markets. The European Commission cut economic growth forecast to 1.5 percent in part because of “increased uncertainty regarding trade policies.”


If the tariffs do happen, you won’t see prices impacted immediately. Importers have warehoused goods already in the US that will be sold at the same price. Eventually, however, prices will raise as importers start to pay the added tariffs on goods. The increased cost of doing business will be passed on to consumers. Markets are complicated, and a 25 percent tariff doesn’t necessarily translate to a 25 percent rise in consumer costs. Some merchants, for example, could try and wait it out by absorbing the costs of the tariff and taking a smaller profit margin. But for the most part, prices will go up.


The European side of this will likely be hurt as well. As prices go up, people buy less, so importers buy less. When importers buy less, the producers don’t have as many places to sell their goods and businesses are hurt. Take Scotch whisky, for example. More than $1.2 billion of Scotch was exported to the US in 2018, according to the Scotch Whisky Association. Single malt Scotch is half of the value of items from the UK that Trump is threatening to put a tariff on.


“The tariff will put our competitiveness and Scotch whisky’s market share at risk,” the SWA said in a statement. “We are also concerned that it will disproportionately impact smaller producers. We expect to see a negative impact on investment and job creation in Scotland, and longer-term impacts on productivity and growth across the industry and our supply chain.”


The same is true for everything else on the list. For now, the only thing to do is wait, preferably while reminiscing on your last trip to Europe with a glass of French wine and a massive cheese and charcuterie board. Oh, and call your congressperson.


More like this: The most overlooked wine and cheese pairings from around the world you need to serve


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Published on October 03, 2019 10:00

Best things to see and do in Tigre

Buenos Aires is home to a constantly evolving cultural patchwork built around a range of gastronomy, plenty of parks, and rhythmic excitement. The metropolis sprawls inland while hugging the coast of Rio de la Plata, a large river that separates Argentina from Uruguay. Although water and greenery are present all around Buenos Aires, it can be difficult to forget that you are in a city. Just north of the city, at the crossing of the Rio de la Plata and the Rio Paraná, the land twists its way into a labyrinth of swampy grasslands and islands. This area is the Paraná Delta, the fifth largest delta in the world, and one of the only which flows into a body of fresh water instead of the sea. Exploring these surroundings along the coast is worth it, and easily accessible for a day trip. The islands and the mainland surrounding it make up the town of Tigre, a perfect escape from the craze of Buenos Aires.


Porteños, residents of Buenos Aires, have long visited Tigre to take a break from the city, even using it as a retreat from an epidemic of yellow fever in the late 1800s. Tigre’s current reputation as a quiet haven does not reflect its name, which comes from the tigres — jaguars, specifically — that were once a bit too common for comfort throughout the delta. Tigre is where Porteños go to relax, and you should hop on the train from Buenos Aires for an afternoon to join them.


Leaving the city for the delta
View from the helicopter for Tigre, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Photo: sunsinger/Shutterstock


Tigre is an easy 45-minute train ride from Retiro, Buenos Aires’ main train station, though it can also be reached via bus or with a tour service. You can buy a ticket one-way at the station buy another when you return. Get yourself a SUBE card at the station and the cost drops from $9 to about $4. Once you exit the train in Tigre, you’ll find yourself next to the town port. Here many small wooden boats called lanchas wait for clients to board their frequent trips around the small inlets of the delta and its many islands. Regular transport is available, as well as tours with various durations and routes. There are different options to make your trip unique, such as bird-watching, fishing, and hiking through the forest with knowledgeable botanists. You can make stops along the way for a bite at a restaurant or for a picnic at one of the rest areas.


The perfect respite from city life is found in the maze of islands and the natural life of the Paraná Delta, accessible only by water. The real beauty of the boat rides around the delta’s narrow ways is that you find yourself in an intimate encounter with nature and the quiet daily life of the people living on the islands, even for just a few hours. You might even catch sight of the grocery, medical, or school boat traveling the waterways to distribute supplies and to transport inhabitants. Many houses on these isolated islands are available to rent on Airbnb, making it possible to try out the lifestyle should you decide to stay overnight.


Getting in tune with nature and the community
Delta tigre

Photo: Estudio Pixies/Shutterstock


The pace in Tigre is famously slow compared when with that of Buenos Aires. This is what the Porteños are after, but if you’re a “seize the day” type of traveler, fill your itinerary with outdoor activities during the afternoon. Kayak tours and rentals are available from shops including El Dorado Kayak, turning the ride through the network of waterways into direct communication with the surrounding scenery and wildlife. For being so close to the nation’s bustling capital, Tigre is surprisingly lush and green, with tree-shaded, stilted docks along the waterfront often playing host to a family sitting at the end, having lunch or casually fishing. A short paddle away you could come across a flock of birds, chirping in a frenzied chatter. At home with the natural environment, conversations here linger over a thermos of mate, the traditional tea and social ritual popular in Argentina and nearby countries. You’ll see locals and tourists alike pedaling bicycles along the water and through the quiet streets, stopping to chat with pedestrians or to linger at a cafe in the afternoons. Don’t be shy about asking for a dinner recommendation or for where to tango after the sun goes down.


Cultural buzz and artistic talent
Art Museum of Tigre

Photo: Diego Grandi/Shutterstock


If the simple thought of setting foot on a boat reduces you to nausea, there is plenty to do on the continente, what locals call the mainland of Tigre. With a history as a popular spot for rich Porteños to visit, the cultural options are not lacking. To its great pride, the only museum in the world about mate is located in Tigre. The Museo del Mate describes the history and customs of yerba mate, the iconic herbal beverage of Argentina. The mate bar on site is the perfect place to try the drink, praised for its multitude of health benefits. It’s thought to help its drinker gain energy, lose weight, and lower blood sugar, among other perks. Whether or not its magic plays out during your stay, it’s at least a delicious way to embed yourself in the Argentinian way of life.


You should also spend an hour or so strolling the Paseo Victoria. This walkable and bikeable path runs along the river and passes many small cafes where you can stop to sip mate while overlooking the water. The Paseo is the ideal way to welcome yourself to the area as many of Tigre’s sights are built along the waterfront of the Luján River and are easily accessible. If you are keen to learn more about Argentina’s maritime presence, the Naval Museum has you covered. To truly step back in time to the Belle Époque, visit the Museo de Arte Tigre, located in an Italian and French-style mansion along the river. Once a social club, the space now holds a small collection of 19th and 20th-century Argentine art. Its grounds by the water are a desirable spot for wedding photoshoots. Regardless of how you get there, the most delicious stop on the path is the Heladería Vía Toscana, known for its artisan ice cream and inviting garden. You can also have a good meal at one of the restaurants and cafes along the Paseo Victorica.


Tigre Market Post in Buenos Aires

Photo: El Greco 1973/Shutterstock


To cover much of the inland area in the space of an afternoon, rent a bike from one of the vendors near the train station and pedal along the riverfront. One of Tigre’s most visited sights is the Mercado de Frutos, once a fruit market and important agricultural stop in the 1900s. Nowadays a few homemade snacks and small restaurants are available, although the purpose of the market has shifted to artisan crafts. Reed, wicker, wood, and cane furniture are plentiful, and the usual knick-knacks for tourists are sold. For more of a quirky take on the local art scene, Boulevard Sáenz Peña is your best bet. Art galleries, workshops, and studios are scattered along the street, the center of the city’s art district.


For a spike in adrenaline, Tigre’s Parque de la Costa is the largest amusement park in Argentina. Not quite the size of its North American counterparts, it still has a Ferris wheel, roller coasters, and plenty of rides to keep you entertained for an hour or two.


More like this: A walk-through guide to Buenos Aires’ historic San Telmo neighborhood


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Published on October 03, 2019 09:30

October 2, 2019

Intrepid Travel stops elephant rides

Animal welfare is increasingly top of mind for modern travelers not wanting to see their tourism dollars used for exploitative profit. In Southeast Asia, elephant riding has taken center stage. Reports of “elephant breaking,” the violent process of taming and domesticating an elephant for commercial use, made their way to the public eye in 2014 following research conducted by World Animal Protection and other welfare agencies, prompting international outcry from the mainstream media, travel sites, and even some tour operators, including Intrepid Travel.


Intrepid removed elephant rides from its roster of tours in 2014, joining and inspiring over 200 businesses that have done the same. Prior to 2014, Intrepid included elephant rides on certain tours in Thailand but stopped doing so after a report from the WAF. Co-founder Geoff Manchester speaks to why his views on elephant riding have changed over time and what inspired the brand to take a firm stance against the activity.


How did the partnership with World Animal Protection come to be?

About five years ago, Southeast Asia was our most popular travel destination, with elephant rides being a major allure for travelers. Although it was often portrayed as ethical and fostering connection between humans and animals, the commodity was based more on the income potential, and the ethics became increasingly blurred. Through our not-for-profit The Intrepid Foundation, we decided to partner with World Animal Protection to investigate whether these venues were sustainably run or were unethically operated. What we saw through the research was that elephants were being captured, beaten and broken, and although they claimed to adhere to animal welfare practices, most venues weren’t following the simplest guidelines. Putting our purpose ethos before our profit, we knew that we had to ban elephant rides on all our tours, making us the first global tour operator to do so. Since then, more than 200 businesses have followed suit.


Photo: LAMBERTO JESUS/Shutterstock


The movement to ban elephant rides has catapulted into the mainstream in recent years. Was there a tipping point where you noticed a cultural shift?

Like many global movements, it often takes one trusted person or business to take a stance, then others follow. Since the World Animal Protection research that Intrepid funded, there’s been a global movement that presented itself in all forms of media. Humans have always had an emotional connection to animals, especially the ill-treatment of animals, and once they were informed about the horrific breaking of elephants so that travelers can ride on them, the media helped connect people from all around the world to the cause, and from there it’s become a much more well-known issue. As people around the world become more socially and ethically conscious, more people are now aware of and firmly against riding elephants. We’re so thankful to be part of the cultural shift toward protecting and rehabilitating elephants.


What alternative activities should travelers consider?

I encourage travelers to visit ethical animal sanctuaries or safari through the wilderness, watching the majestic elephant in its natural habitat. Having led tours myself that included elephant rides to now having visited elephant sanctuaries as an alternative, I’ve seen firsthand the power of connecting with a rehabilitated elephant from afar. There’s a surreal connection when you gaze into an elephant’s eyes, especially one who’s been rescued from captivity. I highly recommend Intrepid Travel’s Thailand and Laos Adventure and Highlights of Thailand tours, both of which allow you to witness elephants roaming in their natural habitat. Additionally, on Intrepid’s Sri Lanka Expedition: Wilderness & Wildlife expedition, you can visit Project Orange Elephant, an organization run by the Sri Lanka Wildlife Conservation Society. SLWCS encourages more sustainable farming practices to help wildlife and humans coexist peacefully.


When did your opinion change on elephant riding? What was it that did it for you?

Intrepid Travel’s first tours, 30 years ago, which were led by me, brought small groups of travelers to Southeast Asia, with the most popular attraction being elephant rides. Over time, it became obvious to me and many others in our business that people were capitalizing on elephants as attractions. Slowly, I became suspicious of the attraction and World Animal Protection’s research was undeniable — elephants were suffering at the expense of travelers. It was at this moment that we all agreed to remove all elephant rides from our tours. Instead of reprimanding ourselves for the past, we wanted to ensure that all our travelers were helping to protect and support the rehabilitation of elephants from then on.


Is abstaining from activities like elephant riding enough? Or should the traveler and tour provider be doing more to support animal welfare in the places they visit?

Abstaining from elephant rides is a huge step in protecting the beautiful mammal. As a business that focuses on giving back to the places we visit, we always encourage travelers to go a step further and support animal welfare projects. Through our not-for-profit, travelers can donate to many projects that protect, rescue, and rehabilitate elephants and other wildlife. Intrepid matches all donations dollar-for-dollar and pays the administration fees, doubling each donation’s impact. We also encourage travelers to become advocates for animal welfare, like sharing their safari and animal sanctuary images on social media so their friends and family become interested in learning about more ethical experiences.


What can a traveler do to support animal welfare in the places they visit?

Aside from visiting ethical animal sanctuaries or traveling to see them in the wild, if you want to double your impact, donate to reputable not-for-profit organizations like The Intrepid Foundation. The Intrepid Foundation works with local NGOs like Friends of the Asian Elephant to provide funds for elephant rehabilitation. In the 15 years since we began supporting this project, our travelers have donated nearly 150,000 Australian dollars ($101,000) to the project, which is matched dollar-for-dollar by Intrepid Travel to provide funds that have treated more than 4,500 sick or injured elephants.


More like this: How to have an ethical camel riding experience


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Published on October 02, 2019 17:00

Best things to do in Izmir, Turkey

While Istanbul is rightly lauded for its rich history and culture, the Turkish capital shouldn’t be the only city you visit in this vast and fascinating country. The city of Izmir, on a bay in the Aegean Sea, is an excellent place to base yourself if you’re planning to visit the ancient ruins of Ephesus, explore Turkey’s wine and olive region, or get to know the beaches and thermal spas of the Cesme Peninsula. The most liberal city in Turkey beckons with an easy-going approach to life yet receives few foreign visitors. Here’s what you need to know about Izmir and its surrounding attractions.


Izmir is the most laid-back city in Turkey.

Photo: Denizce/Shutterstock


“Everyone in Istanbul and Ankara wants to retire in Izmir,” or so I was told by Ayça Kesici, an Izmir native and award-winning tour guide. With a population exceeding four million, Izmir is a sizeable city, but it offers a relaxed pace of life and easy access to the outdoors, Ayça told us. In just 15 minutes, you can be hiking in a pine forest, while in 30 minutes you can be swimming in the Mediterranean.


Izmir itself is situated on the shores of a beautiful bay. While you wouldn’t necessarily want to swim in that busy body of water, the sea views are lovely, and you can always grab dinner at an outdoor restaurant near the shore. On a summer night, those restaurants will be buzzing with diners until late into the evening, tables laden with grilled fish and small meze plates and locally produced wine flowing. On a warm August evening, you might find the women wearing skinny jeans and summery shirts that reveal their shoulders.


If summery attire and free-flowing wine doesn’t gibe with your image of Turkey as a Muslim country, you should know that Turkey also has a very liberal, secular side. While you’ll find neighborhoods in Istanbul as edgy as those in other big European cities, Izmiris will tell you their home is the most progressive of Turkey’s cities. As a port city, Izmir has long been open to influences from countries around the Mediterranean.


During the Ottoman Empire, Europeans came from Venice, southern France, and further afield to work in various industries and technical roles. In Izmir, these Christian expats became known as the Levantine Izmiris, and the business success of many of them can be seen in the so-called “Levantine Mansions” of Izmir today. Some of Izmir’s top industries are still run by the descendents of these western Levantines, and they continue to imbue the city with a more cosmopolitan worldview.


While a century ago Muslims were in the minority, today Izmir — like the rest of Turkey — is predominantly Muslim. Yet it retains its Christian Levantines and a small Jewish population of less than three thousand.


Turkey’s fashion and fruit capital

Photo: Esin Deniz/Shutterstock


Calling Izmir the Milan of Turkey, as I heard while there, may be a stretch, but it is the textile capital of the country. You’ve probably seen “Made in Turkey” on a clothing label or two; if so, it likely came from Izmir, where companies like Hugo Boss produce a quarter of their clothing. On the fashion designer side, Izmir is known as the bride capital of Turkey. In the downtown area, you may see shop after shop selling very sparkly white wedding dresses.


Much of the cotton for the textiles grows in the Menderes, or Meander, Valley behind Izmir. Running through the valley is the Menderes river, called the Meander River in English, and the source of the English word “meander” for the odd way it loops across the valley floor. Beyond cotton, the region is home to many vineyards and some of the best wines in Turkey.


The Meander Valley is one of the most fertile regions of Turkey. You’ll see the silver-green hued leaves of olive trees, whose fruits produce fragrant, top-quality olive oil, as well as groves of orange, apple, tangerine, quince, fig, pomegranate, peach, apricot, plum, and almond trees. Melons and watermelons also grow in the vines of the valley’s rich soil. Raisins, prunes, dried apricots, dried figs, sun-dried tomatoes, and peppers are also big Izmiri exports.


What this means for you as a visitor, beyond tasty food, is the possibility to go on wine and olive tours, for one. More significantly, the richness of this valley — and its proximity to the Mediterranean — means that the region was a favored destination for civilizations thousands of years ago. And Izmir is a great jumping off point to visit the ruins of at least one of these ancient civilizations.


Culture within and near to Izmir

Photo: Resul Muslu/Shutterstock


Before you head out of Izmir to see the remnants of those ancient cultures, you should visit its present cultural center. Head to Konak Square, Izmir’s cultural center and home to the 1901 clock tower that is the symbol of the city. Nearby is the Yali Mosque, the Izmir State Opera and Ballet, and the Archeology Museum of Izmir, which has artifacts from as far back as five millennia ago. You’re also close to İzmir’s major market district, called Kemeralti, a massive bazaar where you could spend hours shopping, haggling, and just absorbing the sights and smells. You’ll find seafood restaurants near there as well.


A 20-minute walk north along the waterfront from Konak Square leads you to the lovely white building of the French Honorary Consulate. There, you’ll find the Arkas Art Museum. It was established to show the art collection of Lucien Arkas, a Levantine Izmiri industrialist whose ancestors came from Marseilles, France. In addition to classic works, the museum features excellent rotating exhibitions, as well.


About 45 minutes south of town is the Key Museum, a gallery with completely different works of art from the Arkas Gallery. Created by two sons of the Izmiri business tycoon Erdogan Özgörkey, the museum is a 75,000-square-foot space filled with mind-blowing automotive vehicles — from the first models of Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, and Cadillac to motorcycles and a collection of over 2,500 model cars. Even if you thought you weren’t into cars, this ode to one of humanity’s most influential (for better or worse) inventions will make an impression.


The ancient city of Ephesus

Photo: S-F/Shutterstock


The Key Museum is on the way to Ephesus, a remarkable place that is the reason many travelers come to Izmir at all. Ephesus was an ancient Greek city that came under the rule of Roman governors in the first century BC. It continued to grow until it became the biggest Roman city in Asia Minor, with estimates putting the population between 200,000 and 400,000 residents. Ephesus had a library that was the third largest in the world at the time, a coliseum that could fit 25,000 people, a glorious temple, statues, open air markets, heating and plumbing, and attractive housing for its wealthier residents.


All that is visible in Ephesus today. You can walk down the market gallery where vendors sold their wares to locals and visitors. You can see the backgammon boards built into tables, where the merchants whiled away the hours. You can head to the wealthy hillside homes and tread on walking paths built above them. You’ll marvel at the lay-outs of the rooms, the shopping lists carved onto tablets in the kitchens, the doodles etched into the walls of kids’ rooms two thousand years ago.


While Ephesus once housed an impressive Temple of Artemis, and thereafter turned its attention to the Roman Gods, it later became an important center for the growing Christian religion. The apostle John spent his last years in the area, and he may have written the Gospel of John in Ephesus.


Give yourself plenty of time to see Ephesus, and tour it with a knowledgeable guide if you can. We were fortunate that Ayça’s schooling and early work were in archeology, and she helped make tangible the lives of the ancient Romans who once walked Ephesus’s streets. After marveling at the ancient metropolis, head to the Ephesus Archeological Museum in nearby Selcuk. You’ll be able to see more of the richness of the ancient city, and learn a bit more about its Greek and Roman cultures.


Wine and olive tours

Photo: ibrahim kavus/Shutterstock


Half of all the wine produced in Turkey is from the Aegean region around Izmir. If you’ve spent the morning in Ephesus, on your way back to Izmir you could stop at Lucien Arkas Vineyards. They’ve established Tukey’s largest organic vineyard on a single area of land, cultivating native varietals and many brought from other regions. In the tasting room, you’ll understand why their wines have won awards and accolades. You could also stay for dinner in the winery’s excellent restaurant.


The wine region of Urla is in the opposite direction, due west from Izmir. Among the wineries to visit there are Usca Winery and Urlice Vineyards, where you can also stop for lunch and wood-oven-fired pizzas. The Urla region is also a big producer of olive oil, and you could spend an entire day here focusing on wine and olives.


Photo: Cem OZER/Shutterstock


In fact, the Kostem Zeytinyagi Museum in Urla is the world’s largest museum dedicated to olive oil. It’s a fascinating look into the cultivation and production of olive oil, an essential ingredient in some of the best cuisines in the world. You’ll see ancient olive presses and learn how olive oil has been produced and stored throughout history. Kostem runs an organic olive farm and works to educate the community about environmental issues. You can taste olives and olive oils, peruse the shop with every olive oil product imaginable, or stop for a bite at the on-site restaurant and cafe.


The Cesme Peninsula

Photo: firatdelan/Shutterstock


The Urla region is on the Cesme Peninsula, which is a popular resort area for Izmiris. At the tip of the peninsula is the town of Cesme, just an hour’s drive from Izmir. The town itself, decorated with a 500-year-old fortress overlooking the water, is packed with great places to shop and waterside restaurants. You can drive to over a dozen nearby beaches like Ilica and Altinkum, each with its own vibe.


Because of the peninsula’s many coves, you’ll find diverse wind and swell conditions; while some beaches are calm and perfect for small kids or swimmers, windier beaches can be packed with windsurfers in the afternoon. Yet others even have enough waves to surf on. Cesme is also famous for its hot springs, which were considered to have healing properties, and a handful of hotel spas are still centered on its thermal springs and mud baths.


More like this: Turkey has the best breakfast in the world, and it’s not even close


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Published on October 02, 2019 16:30

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