Nicole Wilde's Blog, page 11

My Coyote Adventure

I was going to blog on a completely different topic today, but then I had to go and have an adventure–my blog and my morning went completely off the rails. As many of you know, I’m way into photography. Because we live right up against the same mountains where the coyotes live, I keep my camera at the ready. Unfortunately, the coyotes don’t have the decency to let me know when they’ll be taking a morning hike up on the ridge. The times when my dogs let me know there are coyotes out there, it’s normally too dark to photograph them. It’s frustrating. Even worse, my camera is normally still on whatever settings I was last using to photograph the dogs, or at least set for some other lighting situation. Can you see where this is going? Long story short, I never seem to get good shots of the coyotes.

This morning after returning from taking the dogs to the park, I had just finished putting a recently purchased extender on my 70-200mm lens and looked forward to trying out the greater reach. I was about to put the camera down when something caught my eye. There, outside my office window, was a large coyote walking up the hill! I dashed over to the window and snapped a few shots. I was thrilled—that is, until I realized the photos were so overexposed that they couldn’t be saved. Dammit! I decided enough was enough. I threw on my jacket and sneakers, grabbed the camera, locked the dogs in the house, and set out to find the coyote.

As I’ve mentioned, we’re right up against the mountains, and there are no clearly marked trails. There are no houses back there, either; it’s complete wilderness. Having developed a serious case of PISS—Photography Induced Severe Stupidity—I paid no attention to which way I was going, intent only on finding that pesky coyote and getting some shots of him. I followed narrow trails, squeezed between bushes with stickers and spikes sticking out, stepped over who knows what, and, out of breath, finally reached the top of a ridge. I looked across the next expanse of mountain, and spied the coyote. And his friend. The two were trotting away from me down a trail.

I raised the camera and took a few shots. (My camera didn’t seem to be focusing as well as it normally did; I was shooting in Manual mode, squeezing the button halfway down to focus. I would later find out the slow focusing was due to the damned extender.) All I could think of was seizing the moment. Then the coyotes turned and stared. There was something in the way they were regarding me that gave me pause.

I looked around and suddenly realized just how far from the house I’d come. I suddenly wished I’d gotten the bigger, heavier version of my zoom lens after all, being that it might have do double duty to defend me; coyote attacks on people aren’t unheard of. I thought, Well, whatever happens, at least I ought to at least get some good shots first, and took a couple more.

The coyotes decided the standoff was over, and turned and trotted off down the trail.

I wish I could say that the adventure ended there for me, but when I turned back toward the house, I couldn’t figure out where exactly it had gone. I’m the first to say I have a terrible sense of direction, and while my husband has hiked the dogs around those mountains, I never have. I thought surely I’d find a trail that led back to the house. But each time I started down a trail, it ended in a cluster of bushes. It quickly became clear that I was completely lost. I tried to remain calm and look for landmarks. The only thing I could see was a large water tank in the distance. Thinking it might be the one outside our house, I headed toward it. It soon became apparent, though, that not only wasn’t it our tank, but I didn’t even recognize the house it belonged to. How the heck had I walked so far? I was still atop a mountain, and could see the main road that runs past our dirt road. I’ll hike down to the road, I thought, and at least that way I can follow it back to our road, and then follow our road back to the house. One very steep hike down a mountain, a trek across a field of bushes and stickers, and a mile-long hike later, I was finally back home. It had certainly been quite the adventure. I wish the photos had come out better, but I learned two things: I don’t like the lens extender, and, more importantly, never follow coyotes into the mountains!

A Tired Dog is a…Cooperative Dog?

The saying, “A tired dog is a good dog” implies that a dog who is tired is less likely to get into trouble. Of course, the old adage is true. But while most owners accept that dogs need regular exercise to stay healthy and to cut down on over-arousal, a state of canine weariness can also be used for a specific purpose: to make behavior modification go more smoothly.

Dog-centric television programs spotlight dogs with behavioral issues—aggression toward other dogs, snapping when having nails trimmed, or separation anxiety, to name a few—and then show the trainer working with the dog to solve the problem. What many viewers don’t realize, though, is that before that final, successful, on-air session, many things have already happened. And you can bet that one of the first was taking the edge off the dog’s energy levels.

A dog who is a bit worn out is less likely to be reactive. Think of it this way: when a body’s got a lot of energy stored, it has to be expressed in one way or another.

It’s the same for dogs and people. I live near Los Angeles and I can tell you that when someone cuts me off in traffic, I’m not a happy camper. But my reaction is a whole lot different depending if, let’s say, I just came from the gym and I’m pleasantly worn out, versus having a stressful day that did not include any physical exercise. Getting back to dogs, when I adopted Bodhi, he had some pretty major on-leash reactivity issues toward other dogs. Nowadays, when we encounter another dog, he’ll place himself by my side as I’ve taught him to do. But he still has a mild level of anxiety when passing one particular dog at the park, and will whine a bit whenever we pass him. The last few days, though, Bodhi hasn’t made a peep. It’s not that he’s suddenly realized that black Labs aren’t the embodiment of evil—it’s because by the time we encountered the dog, Bodhi was already tired from a few miles of hiking. Again, exercise took the edge off.

Dogs with aggression issues will be less reactive during behavior modification sessions if they’ve been well exercised first. Tiring a dog out won’t solve the problem entirely, of course, but in many cases it allows for a foot in the door. Even with a problem like separation anxiety, starting with a dog who is pleasantly worn out can help. Back when Sierra and I were working through her separation issues, if I took her out hiking before I left the house, she was markedly calmer than if she hadn’t been exercised. When I included this tip in my book Don’t Leave Me! Step by Step Help for Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety, more than a few people contacted me to say that they hadn’t thought of exercising their dogs before they left the house, and that it helped immensely.

This might all sound like common sense, but I know very few owners who actually think this way. It’s just not something we’re taught. Even if a dog doesn’t have a serious behavior issue, taking the offense on the exercise front can help. For example, before having people over for an evening visit, get your dog out for a nice, long session of walking, hiking, playing with other dogs, or doing whatever you both enjoy. Just don’t amp your dog up with an activity like ball chasing, and then immediately put him in a situation where he might become reactive. Aerobic activity elevates adrenaline levels, and floods the bloodstream with other chemicals that can take a while to return to normal levels. As an experiment, try exercising your dog before visiting the vet or groomer, before having visitors over, or before a session of working on behavior issues. You might be surprised at the difference it makes.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________For Nicole’s books and seminar DVDs, including the NEW “Talk to the Paw!” body language seminar DVD, visit http://www.nicolewilde.com.

Shoot Your Dog!

Of all the activities you could engage in with your dog—agility, nosework, or simply taking a hike together—there’s one that probably doesn’t immediately come to mind: photography. Sure, we all have snapshots we’ve taken of our dogs over the years. But wouldn’t you love to have beautiful, lasting mementos? You needn’t be a professional photographer, either; I’m certainly not. And as far as quality, nowadays even the entry level DSLRs and advanced point and shoots are capable of producing great shots.

There are two parts that go into photographing your dogs: your skills, and your dogs’ skills. I’m not here to talk about the first part. Believe me, I’m still learning myself. But let’s consider what goes into getting a good photograph of your dog, or, even more challenging, more than one dog. First, the pose. Your dog will need to know a basic Sit or Down, or a Stand, if that’s your preference. Then there’s the Stay. You might think, Well, of course my dog knows Sit and Stay. But will he be able to do it at a public park or other place that offers a lovely setting, while other dogs and people are walking by? That brings me to the next skill: attention. It’s easy enough to call your dog’s name and get his attention in your living room, but again, what about with distractions? Photos of dogs looking off into the distance can be captivating, but most likely you’ll eventually want one of your dog looking at you, as that’s where the real connection happens.

Taking it to the next level, if you don’t want to have to Photoshop leashes out after the fact, your dogs will need solid off-leash obedience skills. (Don’t ever put your dog in a dangerous position to get a photo; if he doesn’t have the skills, have someone stand out of frame and hold a leash.) The photo above was taken with Bodhi and Sierra off leash, before we headed out to the park. The sky was so beautiful that I wanted to use it as a background. This was on a hill outside our house where bunnies and squirrels abound, and trust me, when we first got the dogs, I would not have trusted them not to bolt. Building up their skills took some time and practice. The photo below was taken at the park, where people were passing by with dogs.

Don’t think you have to have started these skills with your dog as a puppy. Just as with any other kind of training, dogs are never too old to learn. Both of my dogs came from shelters at around the age of two. It was pretty obvious that neither had received much if any obedience training. But, using plenty of patience, guidance, and rewards, they both learned quickly and enjoyed the process. Speaking of enjoyment, some dogs don’t love having a camera pointed at them. In that case, just pick the camera up, put it down, and give your dog a treat. Once he’s comfortable with that, pick it up, point it at him for just a second, put it down and treat. The next step would be to click the shutter while it’s still at a distance…you get the idea. The goal is that eventually, when you point the camera at your dog, he’ll actually look happy! I had to convince Sierra that the camera was her friend; Bodhi was apparently a model in a past life, and took to it right away. The only problem around my house is that when I want to sneak up and capture a heartwarming scene like my husband petting both dogs upon his arrival home after work, once the dogs hear the camera click on, they drop everything and run to me, tails wagging. I guess there are worse problems.

I hope this inspires you to get out there and shoot your dogs, in the best way possible. Oh, and not every shot has to be a portrait; sometimes the most engaging, heartwarming ones are actions shots or even our dogs just being plain goofy. Just get down on your dog’s level to make it more interesting. And don’t forget, models need to get paid! Bodhi recommends hot dog slices. Happy shooting!

Wag This Way: Left or Right Offers Insight

I just got back from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers conference, where one of the seminars I presented centered on the lesser known aspects of canine body language. Among other things, I discussed a study from Bari University in Italy about tail wagging.

The study involved 30 mixed breed dogs between the ages of one and six. There were 15 intact males and 15 non-oestrus females. These were family pets, by the way, whose owners had agreed to participate. The dogs were put into narrow box-like structures with cameras that would track not only which direction their tail wagged, but the precise amplitude. There was a slat at the front of the box through which the dog could see out. (Imagine one of those movies where the character knocks on a door in a seedy neighborhood and the doorkeeper slides the slat open to ask for the password.)

Each dog was presented with a stimulus for one minute, rested 90 seconds, and then saw another stimulus. (The test lasted 25 days with 10 sessions per day.) There were four different stimuli: the owner, an unfamiliar person, a cat, and a dominant unfamiliar dog, who happened to be a large Belgian Malinois. The results were interesting, to say the least. The dogs’ tails wagged to the right for the owner (that’s the dog’s right, by the way), the unfamiliar person, and the cat. Predictably, the widest wag was for the owners, the next widest for the unfamiliar person, and the narrowest for the cat. But when presented with the Malinois, the dogs’ tails wagged to the left.

Why would that be? We know that the left side of the brain controls the right side of the body, and vice versa. The anterior of the left hemisphere is associated with feelings of love, attraction, and safety, so it makes sense that a dog’s tail would wag to the right for their owner and others for whom the dog felt positive feelings. The right anterior hemisphere, however, is associated with fear and withdrawl, among other things. When the dogs saw the dominant Malinois, those left directional tail wags were telling a tale, and it wasn’t a happy one.

The study is fascinating enough on its own, but now the researchers have published a new study in the journal Current Biology. Building on the directional wag theory, they wondered whether other dogs would be affected by a dog’s tail wagging to the right or to the left. Would they know the dog was feeling friendly, or not wanting to be approached? As it turns out, yes, they did! They found that dogs who viewed a dog wagging to the right (the warm, fuzzy, left-hemisphere activated response) would show a relaxed response. In dogs who saw a left side wag (produced by the negative/withdrawl brain function), though, there was increased anxiety and even an increased cardiac response.

The research team posits that the directional tail wags might effectively be used to advantage during vet visits or that dummies could be used to elicit positive responses from dogs. Interestingly, during the seminar where I mentioned the tail wag study, I also discussed what I call the Robodog Study, where a robotic dog was used to gauge the response of other dogs to a short or long, wagging or still tail. Canine body language is such a fascinating subject, and these studies only touch on, well, the tail end of it. You can check out the DVD of my full day seminar Talk to the Paw: Understanding What Dogs are Saying—and What We’re Saying to Them here. In the meantime, watch your dog’s tail when he meets new people and other dogs; you just might learn a little bit more about his likes and fears!

Why Growling is Good

A woman I sometimes chat with during my morning dog outings asked my opinion about an encounter she recently had. She’d been been walking her four-year-old mixed breed dog around a local park when she crossed paths with a man whose dog was off leash. As the owners walked toward each other on the narrow trail, the foot loose and fancy-free puppy ran up to the adult dog. With the usual lack of canine cluelessness that accompanies early dogdom, the pup leaped at the dog relentlessly in an attempt to initiate play. The woman’s dog, while not aggressive, did not want to be bothered. He growled. The puppy didn’t back off, and again tried to engage the older dog. The dog growled louder. The man made no attempt to put his dog on leash. The woman, feeling embarrassed that her dog had growled, ended up apologizing to the man and walking her dog away.

The adult dog’s hackles might not have been up during the encounter, but mine certainly were. The woman’s dog had done nothing wrong. She had nothing to apologize for! Growling is a perfectly acceptable canine warning. It’s a dog’s way of saying, “Hey, I don’t like that,” “Don’t come any closer!” or “Please stop what you’re doing.” Being on leash, the adult dog didn’t have the option to leave. He could certainly have snapped at the puppy, or worse. But instead, he gave an appropriate warning. That the puppy didn’t buy a vowel, get a clue, and understand what was being spelled out was a problem, so the dog growled louder. Hopefully that puppy will learn to back off when adult dogs warn him away, before his puppy license expires and an adult dog cleans his clock. And hopefully the man will learn to leash his dog when encountering others.

Understanding that a growl is a threat is hard-wired in humans, so it’s reasonable and even advantageous that we become upset when we hear one. But a growl from a dog is actually a good thing. I’m not suggesting that it’s a good thing for a dog to growl at his owner, but growling is a non-aggressive form of communication. Think about it. If someone kept shoving into you on line at the post office, you’d eventually say something like, “Excuse you!” But what if you didn’t have a way to warn the person that you were getting irritated? Eventually, you’d have to resort to either leaving, or physically getting your point across. Whether a dog is growling at another dog or a person, it’s simply a warning. If the dog wanted to attack, he would have. Growling is meant to avert aggression, not cause it. But people misunderstand, and punish dogs for growling. A dog then learns that growling leads to being punished and, unfortunately, once his early warning system has been removed, the dog is likely to begin biting with no warning. As a trainer, I’ve seen many dogs like that over the years and believe me, they’re no fun to rehabilitate.

If a dog is growling at you, whether the dog belongs to you or someone else, the best course of action at the moment is to defuse the situation. After all, the dog’s arousal level is already elevated. You don’t want to shout or worse, get physical, as those things could lead to a bite. Instead, glance down and to the side (this tells the dog you’re not a threat while allowing you to keep him in your peripheral vision) and back away slowly. Don’t turn your back on the dog if you can help it, as some dogs are more prone to attack from the rear. If the dog in question is your own, address the situation that caused the growling—for example, food guarding—at another time when your dog is calm, with the assistance of a professional trainer if necessary. Remember, growling is simply communication. If we take a moment to assess why a dog is growling instead of automatically taking the attitude that he’s behaving inappropriately, we will react appropriately ourselves.

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My full day seminar “Talk to the Paw! Understanding What Dogs are Saying–and What We’re Saying to Them” is now available on DVD! Click here to check it out!.

Is Your Dog Who You Thought He’d Be?

Last night, in a jet lag induced bout of sleeplessness, I watched a Sex and the City marathon. Somewhere in the midst of this guilty pleasure, Carrie or one of the other girls (I can’t be sure—it was 3 a.m.) opined that we might all be better off if we didn’t bring so many expectations into our relationships. Naturally, this made me think of dogs.

In some cases, strict requirements are understandable. Nancy, a trainer, got a dog specifically to do agility. An experienced competitor, she has a high skill level and knows what types of dogs excel at the sport. Not only did the dog have to be nimble and built for speed, but he also had to have certain traits including the ability to focus and the strong motivation that’s often referred to as drive. On the other hand, Sue, a retired woman in her late sixties, spends most of her time at home and wanted a dog for company. She didn’t care much what the dog looked like, or even the breed or age. She just wanted a smallish dog who would cuddle with her at night and not need too much exercise during the day. Nancy’s final choice of a young, intense border collie would not have made Sue any happier than Sue’s eventual adoptee, a sweet, calm, mixed breed senior, would have made Nancy.

For Nancy and Sue, the dogs really did need to meet specific expectations. But most adopters, whether an individual or a family, are simply looking for a dog to fit into their homes and lives without too much trouble. They typically envision an affectionate dog who’s fairly easy to train, won’t make major demands on their lifestyle, and is friendly with the family and visitors. There’s nothing wrong with that. I mean, really, who goes looking for a dog with baggage? Who wants a long-term project? Regardless, sometimes that’s exactly what happens.

My own dogs are both shelter rescues we adopted a few months apart. You might think I wouldn’t care much whether a dog has major issues, since as a trainer and behavior specialist, I know how to fix them. Wrong! Even professionals need a break now and then. My last two dogs were much loved but had their own issues—one with fear and the other, aggression—and I longed for an easier dog. As it turned out, Sierra, who came to us at around age two, had a wicked case of separation anxiety. Bodhi, who was allegedly two but turned out to be closer to one, was steeped in the hormones and outrageous behavior of adolescence. He was a handful and a half; rowdy, destructive, reactive toward other dogs, no manners…I could go on. Suffice it to say that despite careful screening (I still believe that he walked quietly past other dogs during his in-shelter temperament test chanting, I will hold it together until I get adopted, I will…) neither dog turned out to be quite what I was expecting. Working through their issues was challenging at times, but eventually, things resolved. Are they absolutely perfect now? Nope. Who is? Still, I wouldn’t trade either of them for the world.

So what can you do if your dog turns out to be very different than what you were hoping? First, unless you’re an experienced trainer yourself, hire one. (The Association of Professional Dog Trainers’ website is a great place to start your search.) Unless there’s an issue such as major aggression toward a child or some other deal-breaker, be patient and work at it. In the end, sometimes the best course is to change what you can, and then accept and appreciate the being for who he is. I’m sure Carrie Bradshaw would agree.

Should You Always Eat Before Your Dog?

Pick up ten books on dog training and you’ll find ten different opinions: you should always eat before your dog; dogs should never be allowed to sleep on your bed; you should always go out of doorways before your dog; and, you should never let your dog walk ahead of you on leash. That’s an awful lot of “always” and “nevers.” And they all have one thing in common: they’re meant to teach your dog who’s in charge.

I just finished feeding my dogs. I haven’t eaten yet. Are my dogs gleefully celebrating this obvious clue that they’re about to inherit the kingdom? I doubt it. It might shock you to know that at my house—the house of a professional canine behavior specialist—my dogs often eat before I do. And, hold on to your hats, they sometimes go out doorways first. Sometimes—gasp!—they even walk ahead of me on leash. The trick is, it’s up to me when those things happen. If I open the back door of the house, I don’t mind if my dogs race out ahead. That is, most of the time I don’t mind. If I’ve got something in my hands or there’s another reason I want to exit first, I’ll give them a cue to wait, or let them know with my body language to hang back. But when we’re going out the front door for walks, all bets are off. I expect them to sit on a mat and wait until I’ve clipped their leashes on, and then wait until I open the door, look around, and give the release word. The routine never varies, as we have rattlesnakes out here and I do a careful porch scan each and every time before we go out.

Everyone’s rules will be different, based on their lifestyle and needs. It doesn’t matter what your house rules are, so long as you have them. Just as one parent’s mandates on curfews or borrowing the car will differ from another’s, some owners allow their dogs to sleep on their bed, while others don’t. Although our dogs aren’t allowed in our bedroom at all (my husband’s choice), I don’t have a problem with anyone’s dogs sleeping on their bed so long as there’s no aggression or related behavior issues, the dog is invited up, and there’s no snarkiness when they’re asked to get down.

Rules and boundaries are important, but some people are just working too hard. A man who emailed me years ago always spit in his dog’s food before serving it, to prove he was boss. (All I can think of is that dog’s incredulous expression and the canine equivalent of “Eeuuuu!”) A woman I know of always chews a cracker before feeding her dogs to show she’s eaten first and is therefore in charge. The thing is, we’re the ones with the opposable thumbs, therefore we control all the good stuff. We can open doors; clip on leashes for walks; open containers of food and treats; and a lot more. Sure, I eat before my dogs do—sometimes. Our dogs are allowed on the couch, but only when I’ve put a large, woven blanket over it first. Those are our choices, and the way we run our home. Your mileage will vary. But don’t believe all of those “you musts” that are still floating around out there. You absolutely should be the one in charge, but it’s not about following someone else’s ideas of what’s right for all dogs. It’s about setting your own rules, creating boundaries, and teaching your dog to respect them. 

You can find Nicole’s books, DVDs and more on http://www.nicolewilde.com.

How to Find a Lost Dog: Tried & True Methods, and Some You Haven’t Considered

This week’s post is a follow-up to Five Things to do Now, Before Your Dog is Lost. If your dog isn’t currently lost, check out that blog, then come back and print out the tips that follow for future reference. Some of these are standard procedure, and others are a product of my years working with dogs in shelters, rescue, and training. My sincere hope is that you’ll never need them.

Search your neighborhood:

Search area: Draw a circle on a map with your home at the center. Extend the radius out a few miles so you can cover the area in a comprehensive, methodical way. You will cover the paths where you normally walk your dog, and then move gradually and methodically out to surrounding areas.

Dogs are crepuscular, meaning they’re most active at dawn and dusk. You’ll want to search at other times as well, but focus on those two time periods.

Walking search: Grab a leash and take along some super-stinky, yummy food you know your dog loves, such as sardines, hot dogs, or fresh pieces of roasted chicken. If your dog has a favorite toy, bring it along. Toys that make noise, such as ones that squeak or jingle, are best. If you have another dog, bring that dog along, too. If your dog is an only dog but you have access to another yours is friendly with, ask the owner to walk with you.

Call out your dog’s name as you go, jingle the toy, and keep the stinky food exposed to the air. Do visual sweeps, paying careful attention to places such as bushes, the undersides of cars, and other areas your dog might take cover if he’s sleeping, injured, or frightened. Brainstorm about local places your dog might venture, such as the local dog park, woods, or fields where rabbits or other wildlife are found; or, in a more urban environment, perhaps your dog might head for a neighbor’s house where a canine friend lives.

Driving search: If possible, have someone else drive so you can focus on searching and calling out your dog’s name. If you’re alone, drive slowly and keep your eyes on the road as you do intemittent visual sweeps of the area. Keep the windows rolled down and call out your dog’s name as you go. If your dog knows, “Wanna go for a ride?” call his name followed by the phrase, uttered in the same happy tone you’d normally use. Whether you are searching by car or on foot, if your dog knows a recall cue, use his name and call him to come to you. Even though you’re understandably stressed out, remember the happy voice!

Photograph: Bring a few recent photos along, preferably one head shot and a few full body photos. Show them to everyone you encounter. If your dog is currently wearing a different collar, harness, or other “clothing” than what’s shown in the photos, say so. Ask whether anyone’s seen your dog, and give them a way to contact you.

Get the word out:



Inform your neighbors: If you feel it’s safe, knock on doors and explain, and/or leave flyers. If your dog is not people-friendly, don’t expect people to attempt contact. Instead, supply them with the phone number of your local animal control agency along with your cell number, and ask them to call both if they spot your dog. Even if your dog is friendly, ask people not to chase him, but to turn their body to the side (and even crouch down with body turned sideways if they’re willing and able) and clap gently, using a high-pitched, happy voice to lure your dog to them. If they have a yard or other potential containment area, ask them to coax your dog inside, close the door/gate, and then call you. Let people know too whether your dog is dog-friendly, in case they have a dog of their own.

Post “Lost” flyers around your neighborhood, using your targeted map as a guide. Keep the text large so it’s easily readable, and post strategically so motorists passing in both directions can spot them; be sure to post at traffic signals and stop signs, where motorists will be more likely to have a moment to read.

Include a clear photo, preferably in color. The word “REWARD” should appear prominently. (Positive reinforcement works for people, too.) Now, I know some will disagree with this, but I also recommend printing “NEEDS MEDICATION,” whether the dog does or not, as it helps to dissuade those who believe in a “Finders, Keepers” policy from keeping your dog. Create small tear-off tags at the bottom of the page with your phone number so the tags get removed and the flyer remains up.

Post flyers at veterinary offices, emergency clinics, shelters, humane societies, groomers, pet supply stores, kennels, other dog-related businesses, and dog parks. Post too at laundromats, supermarkets, community bulletin boards, and anywhere else that will allow it.

Distribute flyers to your local postal workers and delivery drivers. They’re the ones who cover your neighborhood in a comprehensive way daily, and have the best chance of spotting your dog. Give flyers to kids who are playing or hanging out on the street and let them know there’s a reward. Alert local dog walkers, since they are not only out and about in the community regularly, but will have other dogs with them who might attract your dog. Other people to hand flyers to include bus drivers, taxi drivers, highway workers, utility workers—you get the idea. Give ‘em to anyone who’s spending time in your neighborhood and is willing to help.

Alert local trainers and groomers in case someone decides to keep your dog and engages their services. Let local rescue groups know, too. If your dog is a purebred, alert the breed rescue, even if it’s not in your immediate area. Even if your dog is a mixed breed, alert the breed rescue for his predominant breed, as well as mixed-breed rescues.

Spread the word online. Post information and photos on Facebook, Twitter, and any other social media you subscribe to, and ask that it be shared.

Place “Lost dog” ads in your local and surrounding newspapers, and on Craiglist.

Search Shelters and Humane Socieities:

Search shelters in your area, and any within roaming distance, daily. Depending on where you live, strays may be euthanized after just a few days of not being claimed. Don’t just call—you must show up in person. Often the office staffer who answers the phone will not know what dogs are in the actual facility. Also, your dog might have been marked down as the wrong breed upon intake.

Be sure to search all of the runs, even those reserved for the opposite sex (every now and then a mistake is made as to gender). And don’t skip the medical area! If your dog was hit by a car or otherwise injured, that’s where he’ll be. Ask a shelter staffer whether you’re allowed inside; if not, give them a few photos and ask them to take a look. Also, ask in the main office where to locate the Found postings.

Miscellaneous:

If your dog is a purebred or a mostly-purebred, keep a vigilant watch on the website of any local groups who specialize in that breed. Check the websites too of any local mixed-breed rescue groups.

If you’ve got a GPS tracker on your dog, use it. Be sure you know how wide of a geographical range the product covers.

There are companies that will, for a fee, help search for your dog by generating flyers and employing a voluminous contact list. This can be especially helpful if you work full-time or are otherwise too busy or unable to conduct a full-on search on your own. Depending on the state you live in, there may even be services available where a bloodhound or other breed can help to track your dog.

If you spot your dog:

Hopefully, you’ll soon spot your dog. Although you’ll be thrilled to see him, since the outside world is one big Doggie Disneyland, he might not be inclined to run directly to you. If that happens, try to get him to chase you instead. If you’re near your home, have him chase you all the way into the yard, then close the gate; if not, try to maneuver to where you can grab him gently. Another trick you can try is to fall down and pretend to cry. Use a high-pitched, distressed tone. Many dogs will run to their owners in that situation.

The most important thing:

Think positive. Visualize your dog home safe and sound. Most importantly, don’t give up! I know of a few cases where a dog was lost and someone took him in for a few months and then gave the dog up to a shelter. Keep looking, keep spreading the word, and stay strong. Here’s to your dog getting home safe and sound.

Print this Checklist:

____ On a map, circle a radius with your residence as the mid-point.

____ When searching, take: treats, toys, your other dog, a familiar dog.

____ Create a “Lost Dog” flyer. Photo, large text, tear-off contact info.

____ Post flyers at:

– street corners

– veterinary offices

– groomers

– kennels

– shelters

– dog parks

– pet supply stores

– non-pet-related stores

____ Give flyers to:

– passersby

– kids hanging out/playing in street

– bus drivers

– delivery drivers (e.g., UPS, FedEx)

____ Inform:

– local rescues (breed-specific if applicable, too)

– trainers

– groomers

– boarding kennels

____ Post online to social media and other groups.

____ Place ads in local newspapers and on Craig’s List.

____ Search shelters thoroughly and regularly.

____ Monitor local rescue websites, especially if your dog’s a purebred.

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You can find all of Nicole’s books, seminar DVDs and products at http://www.nicolewilde.com. You can also find her on Facebook and Twitter.

5 Things to do Now, Before Your Dog Becomes Lost

No owner wants to think about their dog going missing. But during the course of your dog’s life, even with the best management and vigilance, it could happen: dogs become spooked during fireworks and bolt; they run off when fences are downed in natural disasters; and, sometimes they simply run through a gate that’s been left open.

In the spirit of hoping for the best but preparing for the worst, here are five things to do now, just in case:

1. Make sure your dog’s microchip and tags are up to date. Many people change their address or phone number without thinking twice about updating their dog’s chip; the microchip company should be informed. (If your dog isn’t microchipped, get it done right away; almost every veterinarian and shelter now has a scanner capable of reading them.) Speaking of identification, even if your dog’s ID tag info is up to date, when’s the last time you took a look at it? My dog Bodhi had been wearing the same engraved metal tag for years. Recently, when I went to adjust his collar, I noticed that the text had been all but worn off, rendering it unreadable.

2. That ID tag isn’t worth much without a well-fitted collar. If your dog is a puppy, resize periodically as needed. If your dog is an adult, check regularly, but especially after events like being groomed (the groomer will remove it temporarily) or having medical treatment. A correctly fitted collar allows for two fingers to lie flat between it and the dog’s body. You should not be able to pull the collar off over your dog’s head, even with moderate tension. If you’re worried about leaving a collar on your dog when you’re gone, because of potential entaglement with another dog or getting hung on a fence or object, consider a breakaway collar.

3. Do regular inspections of your yard with an eye toward potential escape points. If you have wooden fencing, check that the slat bottoms haven’t become so worn that your dog could dig under or push through. Chain link fencing should be checked for areas that have become curled up or pushed out. Regardless of fence type, ensure that you don’t have tall garbage cans or other obejcts positioned too close to the fenceline, as they could act as makeshift stairs.

4. If your dog is a known escape artist, consider purchasing a GPS-style tracking product. Now available from various companies, the device sits on your dog’s collar, and tracking is done via an app on your mobile device. There is a monthly service fee that varies depending on the company.

5. Keep a few current photos of your dog handy, including a head shot and full body shot. Should the worst happen, those photos will become crucially important, as you’ll use them to create flyers and online posts.

Stay tuned for Part II, which offers tips on what to do if your dog becomes lost, including a few I bet you haven’t considered!

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You can find all of Nicole’s books, seminar DVDs and products at http://www.nicolewilde.com. You can also find her on Facebook and Twitter.