Carole Terwilliger Meyers's Blog, page 50

Sights to See: The Northeast, Reydarfjordur, Iceland

REYDARFJORDUR 
The longest and widest of Iceland’s eastern fjords, this town is a regional trade center.  The main employer is the Alcoa aluminum smelter. 

Icelandic Wartime Museum/Icelandic World War II Museum  During World War II almost 4,000 British, Canadian, Norwegian, and American soldiers were stationed in this town of only 300 inhabitants.  This museum operates inside an abandoned freezing plant, and is reconstructed to resemble a hospital camp built by Americans as an Allied base here in response to Norway’s occupation by Germany.  Visitors enter a replica barrack and cinema hall to see displayed artifacts.  Some original barracks remain outside the museum. 





More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Sights to See: The Northeast, Egilsstadir, Iceland

THE NORTHEAST OF ICELAND
In this remote area that is the oldest part of Iceland, the terrain is reminiscent of that in Scotland.  The barren-looking ground is covered with low-growing green plants punctuated by plentiful waterfalls and snow-capped mountains .  It is a paradise for sheep, horses, and cows.  For humans, it offers respite, with winding two-lane highways and long, narrow mountain tunnels traveled by few cars.  The deep East Fjords are particularly beautiful.  Winters here are long and dark, with only 4 to 5 hours of light in some places.  

Bardarbunga  This is the volcano that erupted in 2014.  I was fortunate enough to see the eruption as I flew over it during my visit then.  It is now “vomiting” (as the local put it) a few times a day. 




EGILSSTADIR  
The airport here is a 1-hour flight from Reykjavík. 

Hotel Herad   Midvangur 5-7.  60 rooms.  Buffet breakfast.  This efficient contemporary hotel is all clean lines but with some art thrown in to cheer things up.  Ask for a room with a view of the lake. 




Hus Handanna Art & Design   Midvangi 1-3, a few steps from hotel.  This spacious shop purveys an array of top-notch Iclandic art and handcrafts that make wonderful souvenirs.  Items include everything from colorful felted fingerless gloves to fragile ceramic tea-light containers.  My favorite was the carved-wood reindeer mother and child that fit into each other


. 


Monster Lake  This point in the Lagarfljot river becomes so deep and wide that it is defined as a lake.  It is home to the legendary beast Lagarfljotsormurinn--Iceland’s version of Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster--which was first reported in 1345.  “The Story of the Legendary Worm” dates to the 14th century and is about a young girl who lived on a farm by the lake.  She was given a gold ring as a gift.  Her mother told her that if she put the ring in a box with the worm, the gold would grow.  Of course, she put it in the box and the gold grew, but the worm grew, too.  The girl panicked and threw them both into the lake, where the worm became a huge monster and terrorized the villagers.  Eventually two farmers decided to kill the monster and get the gold.  They bound it, but the monster still was able to put its back up out in the water and now bad luck comes when people see it.  In reality, my tour guide has a  friend who saw it in 1968.  Some elementary school kids saw it in the 1990s, and this viral video on YouTube shows it in 2012.  While some people think the video proves the monster’s existence, others think it proves that the monster is just some netting twisting in icy water.  An Iceland panel decided by a narrow majority vote that this grainy 2012 footage is legitimate.  I think it looks like a cross between a viper and a tape worm.  What do you think?




Hallormsstada Skogur    The small new forest provides nice walking trails near the lake. 



Skriduklaustur   

●Gunnar Gunnarsson Museum  This cultural museum honoring celebrated Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson operates within his former home.  It also tells about the circa 1493 Augustinian monastery ruins being uncovered right now in a field across from the house.  It is the only cloister in Iceland that is completely excavated, and the most northerly one in Europe . 

●Klausturkaffi  The museum’s small restaurant is also an attraction, and a prime place to stop for a spectacular buffet lunch spread.  An a la carte menu is also available.  My favorite items were the crowberry spritzer and wild mushroom soup, though the entire array was delicious. 


Vallanes Farm   This greenhouse farm is renowned for bringing organic Modir Jord products—most especially barley--to Icelandic cuisine.  It is the largest organic farm in Iceland.  As you travel in this area, you’ll also come across their vegetarian burgers and fresh herbs, such as angelica and caraway.  Everything at the farm is 100% organic, including local wild berry and rhubarb jams.  A recipe for Gabriel’s Breakfast made with barley cereal is on the website.

When pioneer organic-farm owner Eygló Björk Ólafsdóttir (pictured) welcomed us to his complex, which has been worked since the 1100s, he said, “Good morning and welcome to my kingdom.”  When he took over here in 1979, it was a dairy farm.  In this country with  few trees, he planted one million saplings in shelterbelts and forests, and officially began his organic farm in 1989.  A B&B and hostel are also available. 


Vatnajokulspjodgardur National Park  Located mostly in the highlands, this park covers almost 14 percent of Iceland.  The country’s largest glacier, and Europe’s biggest, is here. 
● Vatnajokull Ice Caves   These caves are located inside an Icelandic glacier.  It's pretty hard to get cooler than that.

More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Sights to See: Golden Circle; Reykjavik, Iceland

Golden Circle  This day trip is short in distance from Reykjavik but long on sights—it takes in a trio of the most iconic wonders in Iceland.  And in between, you’ll see moss-covered lava fields as well as tiny birch trees that are the only indigenous trees on this island (early Viking settlers brought all their wood for house and boat building as do residents import it today).   


North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet



Silfra crack ● Thingvellir National Park   This UNESCO World Heritage Site is where representatives of all Iceland tribes met in 930 at Lake Thingvillaten, establishing the world’s first parliament.  In 1000, the group officially adopted Christianity, and they continued meeting here annually until 1798.  In 1944, when Iceland became independent from Denmark, the nation assembled here to celebrate.  Also, the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet here, and visitors can walk through the separation caused by them slowly drifting apart (it was seen in Season 4 of "Game of Thrones").  Since  most tectonic plate boundaries are underwater, this is an unusual and scenic opportunity.  Snorkeling is permitted in the clear water of the Silfra (the crack between the plates), where they can also touch both plates at the same time.


This park is also home to a loo with an amazing view. More loos with a view.




 ● Gullfoss/Golden Falls   Nearby, one of the most impressive waterfalls in Europe roars at an L-shaped bend in the Hvitá River.  It falls into the river in two wide stages, and rainbows form in the mist on sunny days.  A path leads along the falls to a spectacular viewing area.


●Geysir Hot Springs  In Haukadalur.  This geothermal area is sprinkled with steaming water and bubbling mud pools.  Geysir is the original geyser and the first one described in print and is the one after which all others are named.  At about 10,000 years old, it no longer erupts.


But every 10 to 15 minutes the Strokkur geyser sends up a spectacular plume of hot water and steam about 100 feet into the air.  A bubbling up is seen just before it explodes.  Be careful with your camera, because the steam can cause problems.


More non-erupting, colorful sulphur pools are in the immediate area, and the Litli Geysir gurgles and hisses beside the path from the visitor center.  An unusual activity that is sometimes arranged here is making Geysir bread, or “hot spring bread.”  Participants assist a chef in digging up rye bread that has been ‘baking’ underground for 24 hours and also boil eggs in a hot spring.


●Fridheimar Greenhouses  On some tours, a stop here is included, allowing you to see how delicious organic tomatoes are grown indoors year-round with help from bright lights to mimic the sun, bees to fertilize, and technology and computers to monitor things. 



This site’s owner says, “We make every day perfect for the tomato, and they turn into a perfect tomato for us.”  You’ll want to sample some of the tasty tomatoes and also the small cafe’s specialty tomato soup.


An adjacent stables is home to Icelandic horses, and horse shows are scheduled. 


● Lindin Bistro   In Laugarten.  If you’re on your own, plan to stop at this Michelin-starred restaurant for lunch.  You’ll get to sample the premium local produce made into seasonal specialties.  The bread is baked in the ground by hot springs (as described above), and I hear the  lobster bisque is divine.

More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
 

Things to Do: Blue Lagoon; Reykjavik, Iceland

Blue Lagoon  Located between Reykjavik and airport in Keflavik, 45 min. from town, 20 min. from airport.  Admission US$35+.  Locals prefer their city pool, or “hot pot,” to coming here, which they think is too commercial and expensive.  But I think you won’t want to miss it.  Formed by accident in 1976, this gigantic pond in the middle of a lava field opened as a geothermal spa in 1992.  A foggy mist hangs above the opaque, milky-baby-blue water, which ranges from 98 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit.  After it is first used to make heat and electricity, the mineral-rich recycled hot seawater is piped in from a power plant next door. 


  





     Bring along a bathing suit, flip-flops, a towel, and a rubber band for your hair, or you can optionally rent almost anything you need.  Changing rooms are similar to what you would find in a nice spa—small shared locker rooms, open shower cubicles, and restrooms that you can turn into a changing room if you are modest . . . and fast.  An electronic security bracelet secures your locker and keeps track of your purchases, so you can get a drink at the lagoon bar, a snack at the indoor cafe, or rent an extra towel or fluffy bathrobe with a flick of your wrist.  If you make an appointment ahead, you can even have a massage.  When you leave, your bracelet is scanned and you settle up. 







    Everyone must shower in the changing area before getting into the lagoon and after as well, but you can probably get away with doing it in your bathing suit if it is crowded and you are quick.  Minerals in the water include silica and sulphur, which are good for skin but bad for hair.  I brought a shower cap, which isn’t very cute, but you can also purchase a swim cap at reception.  If you don’t plan to go under water, you can get by with slathering on the complimentary conditioner provided in the shower area and leaving it in while you soak.  I slathered and put my hair up in rubber bands, too, and it had no lasting issues.  Do also look for the grey silica mask goo found on the side of the lagoon in wood boxes with ladles, and apply it liberally to your face for a deep cleaning and exfoliation.  Water temperature varies around the pond, from mostly perfect to very hot or even lukewarm.  The pool bottom is uneven, and sometimes I found myself up to my chin in hot water, especially in the center.  Should you get tired of bathing, you can explore an area with a cave, a sauna, a steam room, and a massage waterfall.  After, to avoid dry, brittle hair, wash your hair thoroughly with the provided silica purifying shampoo and use more conditioner.
     You can arrange to get here by bus tour and airport shuttle.  Many people stop on their way to or from the airport.  Large luggage can stay on the bus or be stored in a building with lockers that is adjacent to the parking lot.  Try to pack ahead in a small bag what you need at the spa.  To avoid crowds, go early--before noon if possible, or late in the afternoon. 

More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Good Eats: Restaurant Reykjavik; Reykjavik, Iceland

Restaurant Reykjavik   Vesturgötu 2, 552-3030.  D daily; $$$.  Situated in the heart of the city inside a four-story historical house known as the Old Dock, this is one of Iceland’s largest restaurants.  It is the city’s third-oldest house (1863) and before landfill was located on the waterfront. 


waiter serving monkfish with Hollandaise and potatoecakeThe chefs know what they are doing, and the servers are delightful.  


Arctic char appetizer  
white chocolate cake with caramel paste
My dinner here consisted of an Arctic char appetizer and a main of monkfish with Hollandaise and potatoecake, washed down with a lovely Italian Pinot Grigio.  White chocolate cake with caramel paste was the satisfying conclusion. 

More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images and video ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Sights to See + Good Eats: The Pearl; Reykjavik, Iceland

The Pearl   This dome–shaped glass building is supported by six huge hot-water tanks, each with a capacity of 1 million gallons.  The Saga Museum here displays lifelike silica figures which depict famous Saga scenes.








The dome houses a revolving restaurant that serves delicious food (think lobster soup with lobster tails, cod with barley, Skyr mousse with blueberries), a small café, and an observation platform—all providing panoramic views of the city and surrounds.  An impressive water feature erupts from the basement into the atrium where events are held, though I somehow managed to miss seeing it.  Outside the building to the left of the car park, the man-made geyser imitates the natural spouting action of the famous Strokkur geysir in southwest Iceland. 
 



More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images and video ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Sights to See: The Pearl; Reykjavik, Iceland

The Pearl   This dome–shaped glass building is supported by six huge hot-water tanks, each with a capacity of 1 million gallons.  The Saga Museum here displays lifelike silica figures which depict famous Saga scenes. 








The dome houses a revolving restaurant that serves delicious food (think lobster soup with lobster tails, cod with barley, Skyr mousse with blueberries), a small café, and an observation platform—all providing panoramic views of the city and surrounds.  An impressive water feature erupts from the basement into the atrium where events are held, though I somehow managed to miss seeing it.  Outside the building to the left of the car park, the man-made geyser imitates the natural spouting action of the famous Strokkur geysir in southwest Iceland. 
 



More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images and video ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

 

Things to Do + Good Eats: shopping + Zinc Café (CLOSED), Solana Beach, California

Cedros Design District   100-300 blocks of Cedros Ave., 14 miles from La Jolla, Lomas Santa Fe Drive exit off I-5, (858) 755-0444.


Home to many architects, builders, designers, and interior decorators, these three strollable blocks more than 85 unique boutiques and galleries.



Antique Warehouse● Antiques on Cedros   118 S. Cedros Ave., (858)704-4900.  This collective has more than 50 dealers.  A specialty is fine estate jewelry.

● Antique Warehouse   212 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 755-5156.  W-M 10-5.  There is space for 101 dealers to display their finds in this uncluttered, multi-dealer antique warehouse.  The cleanly curated selection of antiques, collectibles, and memorabilia includes an excellent selection of gemstone rings, record albums, china, and more. 

● Chic Weed   240 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 205-8083.  This mostly outdoor garden shop is a pleasant browse.

● Cut Loose   142 S. Cedros Ave. #K, (858) 509-0386.  14 M-Sat 10-5:30, Sun 11-5.  Made in San Francisco, this brand is designed for larger women.  It uses fabulous colors and fabrics, especially linen. 


● Leaping Lotus   240 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 720-8283.  M-Sat 10-6, Sun 11-6.  More than 100 vendors display a stunning variety of goods in a gigantic two-floor warehouse space.  Items include clothing, house and garden goods, and unusual gifts. 


● SoLo   309 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 794-9016.  This upscale collective displays  creative and stylish collections of gifts and home accessories from eight different vendors in a dramatic restored warehouse.




CLOSED ●Zinc Café  132 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 793-5436.  My favorite lunch here is a half egg-salad sandwich with a bowl of chili and a lemon-frosted pecan cookie.  More description.



Things to do in nearby La Jolla.

Things to do in nearby San Diego.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Things to Do + Good Eats: shopping + Warwick's + Girard Gourmet, La Jolla, California

Shopping along Girard Avenue and Prospect Street   Prospect Street is known as “The Rodeo Drive of San Diego,” but wide, boulevard-like Girard, Fay, and Pearl streets aren’t too shabby either.  High-end boutiques have set up shop on these tony main drags, but amidst them you’ll find unique local boutiques and galleries as well.



Warwick's   7812 Girard Ave., (858) 454-0347.  M-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10 am-5:30 pm.  Free parking behind store.  One of San Diego's oldest stationers, this local institution offers a great selection of paper goods.  Also a bookstore, you’ll find everything from the latest novels to novel gift boxes disguised as novels to hide things in.  This is also a popular stop for top-name author appearances.  And should you have questions, the knowledgeable staff is happy to help and will even gift wrap your purchase for free.


Girard Gourmet   7837 Girard Ave., (858) 454-3325.  B-L-D daily; $.  This popular European-style bakery-deli always has a line out the door, but the delicious sandwiches made with crispy-crusted Italian bread and salads are worth the wait.  Squirmy kids start salivating and become more willing to wait when promised their choice of one of the decorated shape cookies in the window display--a whale frosted in blue, a seal topped with chocolate icing, or maybe a panda bear in black and white.  Yum.  Best scenario:  Select a picnic’s worth of goodies to go. 



More things to do in La Jolla.

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Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
 

Sights to See: Reykjavik Art Museum; Reykjavik, Iceland

Reykjavik Art Museum  Ticket valid at all three museums on the same day.  Under 18 free.  Guided tours in English available June-August.  This museum is housed in three buildings situated across the city.  It addition to displaying distinguished Icelandic art and international art, the museum promotes local emerging artists.  Combined, the three museums own more than 70,000 pieces. 

●Hafnarhus  Tryggvagata 17, downtown by the harbor.  Daily 10-5, Thurs to 8.  Located in a refurbished 1930s fish warehouse, this is the largest of the branches.


It houses a permanent collection of Erro, one of Europe’s most notable pop artists.  Temporary shows are progressive and experimental.  A stylish cafe is popular for lunch and refreshment.



“Reactive Wall” (2009) is a temporary show by artist Mojoko (a pseudonym of Steve Lawler) and software programmer Shan-Liang that shows bright graphics that are seen on a black wall reacting to sound made through a microphone. 

●Kjarvalsstadir  Flokagata 24.  Daily 10-5.  This branch is in a Nordic-modern building with floor-to-ceiling windows that looks out to Klambratun Park.  It is named for influential Iceland painter Johannes S. Kjarval and houses a comprehensive collection of his works.  Exhibitions focus on paintings and sculptures of established masters of modern art. 

●Asmundarsafn  Sigtun 105.  Daily; hrs. vary.  Sculpture garden is admission-free.

photos to come

This sculpture museum is in the former home and workshop of sculptor Asmundur Sveinsson, who designed and constructed most of the building himself.  An upstairs dome room gallery doubles as a whispering chamber.  Sveinsson’s works are displayed both inside and out. 

More things to do in Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.  

images and video ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers