Steven Harper's Blog, page 17

August 17, 2023

The Cruise: Olympia

  We spent one day at sea, coasting along from Trieste to Olympia. Darwin and I rested and got rid of the final bits of jet lag. The next morning, we had a half-day tour of Olympia (the Temple of Zeus) and another one at the Akropolis. Both places have been written up extensively elsewhere, so I'll just give my own thoughts here. I've taught Greek mythology for decades, but I've never visited any of the places I teach about, which is one of the reasons I've wanted to go on a trip like this. Darwin knew this, and it's why he arranged it. Isn't he wonderful? When the ship arrived on the coast of Greece, I could just make out the Akropolis at the top of the hill. Just. Below it, brown mountains. Below that, white, square buildings. We met our tour group in the ship's auditorium, disembarked with them, and boarded a well-appointed bus. I looked out the windows at the Greek landscape. It hasn't rained in months, and just last week it was in the 100s every day. Today, the heat was only projected to be in the high 80s, for which I was grateful, but I wondered how difficult it's been for the natives. The landscape was brown and pale green, very, very dry. The bus arrived at the Temple of Zeus. I shouldered my backpack (water bottle, sun hat, sun-blocking umbrella, snacks). We had to hike quite a ways along an occasionally-shaded road to the temple, and I was sweating heavily by the time we arrived.  The Temple of Zeus is really a complex of temples that includes the grounds where the first Olympics were held and multiple ruined, columned buildings. It was very interesting to poke around the ruins and listen to the guide's commentary. It was my first Greek ruin!  Tomorrow was the big one: the Akropolis.

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Published on August 17, 2023 12:17

August 16, 2023

The Cruise: The Osterdam

 Our cabin on the Oosterdam ("oh-ster-dahm") was bigger than we expected—the size of a decent hotel room. Queen bed, lots of closet space, two-sink bathroom with a jetted bathtub AND a phone booth shower.  Everyone told us that when people get on board, they head for the buffet and it's a madhouse, so you're better off going to one of the ship's sit-down restaurants. But we checked the buffet (conveniently located one deck above us), and it wasn't busy at all. Good—we were starving! And the food was very good. I'd visualized being seated in groups with strangers at meals—a large table with people we'd introduce ourselves to and hope we got along. But the dining area was filled with tables of all sizes, from two-person to eight-person, and everyone sat where they wanted. I was glad of this. I've never been comfortable with forced socialization, though I've learned to be good at it. On vacation, I'd rather eat with my husband, thank you. We LOVE having a balcony. Love, love, love it! I'm perfectly happy looking out at the Aegean/Ionian/Mediterranean while the fresh, soft sea breeze wafts over me. The balcony has room to sit two people comfortably with room left for a pair of small tables and more standing space. The view from the eighth deck makes Darwin a little dizzy, but mostly he's been fine with the height. The ocean is a dark, azure blue, a color I've never seen in a large body of water before. The Great Lakes are a murkier blue, and the Gulf of Mexico has a green cast to it. The Pacific at Hawaii is a paler blue. I've never seen such a rich ocean blue before, and it's stunning. The ocean has behaved itself so far. At night a couple of times it's been a tiny bit choppy and we've had some stiff wind, but nothing worrying.  The O-dam is a largeish ship with about 1600 passengers (coincidentally, about the same number of students attend Nameless High School). It has two swimming pools (one indoors and one out), several bars, a casino, a stage, an art gallery, several restaurants, and ridiculous little shops filled with high-priced jewelry and other oddments that apparently interest enough passengers to justify their continued existence. The diamond seller went into hard sell mode when we wandered by, trying to entice us. "Something beautiful for your wife or girlfriend!" he crooned. Boy was he selling up the wrong tree. The activities began right away, including a Pride Meetup. I decided to attend and met some very nice people. I also learned that several other people had the same problem we did—they arrived in Venice, expecting to board there, only to discover on short notice they had to be in Trieste. It wasn't just us! Not only that, the cruise line had a shuttle service from Venice to Trieste, but they didn't tell us—or anyone else, apparently—about it. There was a fee for it, but it wasn't anywhere near 450 Euros! I complained to the cruise line about the issue at the customer service desk. The short version is, they can't do anything about it until the cruise is over, but they gave me a case number and official complaint status. We'll have to follow up back home. If they refund us the difference between the cost of the shuttle and the cost of the taxi, I'll be satisfied. We'll see what happens. From some of my fellow gay cruise liners, I learned that our ship has an unusually high number of days in port. We only have two days at sea for our two-week cruise, and usually it's more like six or seven days at sea. Interesting. More excursions for us! We unpacked and took a refreshing shower. Meanwhile, the ship backed slowly and steadily out of port, and we were off! The first morning at sea, we ordered room service breakfast just because we could. We had eggs and bacon and toast and coffee out on the balcony above the blue, blue ocean with the refreshing breeze. It was lovely.

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Published on August 16, 2023 02:10

August 15, 2023

The Cruise: Wait--What?

 THE CRUISE: WAIT—WHAT? When our boat taxi arrived to take us to the harbor, the driver helped with our luggage and we sped off toward the port. The driver asked where in the port we were going and we showed him our electronic boarding passes.  "No, no," he said. "This is for Trieste." Yes. Our boarding passes said "Venice (Trieste)" as the start of the cruise. "Trieste is two hours away," the driver said. Um ... what? We thought Trieste was a part of Venice, like Zaterre. Turns out it was an entirely different city much farther up the coast. So why the hell did the cruise say the trip started in Venice? Ohhhhh, we were upset. And angry. And upset. And angry. The taxi driver called dispatch and said they could take us to Trieste right now. It would cost 450 Euros. Fuck. We decided to do it. What other choice did we have? I didn't know if a train would get us to Trieste in time, and the thought of navigating the Italian train system for the first time alone with a pile of luggage made me shake. So we paid it. The driver, it must be said, was great. He wound along highways and roads. We did get to see a lot of interesting Italian countryside, mountains, and villages, but it wasn't worth 450 Euros. We got to Trieste just in time to make boarding. I gritted my teeth and tipped the driver heavily. It's not customary in Italy to tip taxis, but he certainly hadn't been planning to drive four hours to Trieste and back that day, and he got us right up to the port. "I know this isn't usual," I told him, "but please take this." He didn't refuse. :)  Once we were there, the boarding process went smoothly. We did discover that our cabin had been moved from the stern to amidships, which surprised me. I had called and asked a week ago if it were possible (I'd heard that the passengers in the stern were more likely to get motion sickness, since there's more motion), but the rep said all the cabins were wait-listed, and I shrugged it off with an "Oh well—we tried." But now our cabin had indeed been moved. No idea why.  I was glad for it. The cabins amidships (and their balconies) are slightly larger than the stern ones because the ship's hull bows outward, creating more space. And the ride is smoother. Later, we also discovered it was quieter. The stern is, of course, right above the screws, and at sea, they churn the water VERY LOUDLY. So this was a definite plus! And we set out to explore the ship. 

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Published on August 15, 2023 10:26

August 11, 2023

The Cruise: Venice!

Darwin and I are taking a cruise, our first! 

We started in Venice, where we stayed a couple days before the cruise. Our flight was uneventful and only got interesting when we landed. Venice, you see, is built on 120 islands out in an ocean lagoon, but the airport is on the mainland. So getting to the city from the airport is a bit of a puzzle for newcomers. However, our thoughtful BnB hosts had sent us careful instructions. There's what's basically a shuttle bus (but it's a boat) that runs from the airport to various stops around Venice. Jetlagged and with lots of luggage in tow, we arrived at the water taxi stop. 

It was strange to see water instead of a parking lot and boats instead of cars, I have to say. To Michigander me, boats are for recreation, not transportation. But Venice has a different point of view. 

Anyway, I bought tickets at a kiosk. Darwin, who's a Europe newbie, doesn't like trying this kind of thing, but I'm fearless about it. The shuttle only cost fifteen Euros each, a bargain when a private taxi to the city was at least 100! 

We joined the line of people at the dock and the water taxi arrived. It really was a floating bus--long, with rows of basic seats and a diesel engine. The (enormously handsome Italian) ticket taker asked, "Where are you going?" in English.

I paused, confused. "Venice?"

He laughed. "What part of Venice?"

Ah. "Zattere. Does the bus go there?"

"Yes, yes. They will announce it."

So we boarded with a pile of other people. It was great fun for me. The empty water stretched in all directions. Traffic was expected to stay within a narrow lane between Venice and the mainland marked by pilons. Other boats breezed past our chug-chug-chug bus, but I didn't mind. We got a great initial view of Venice. Astounding architecture everywhere you looked! Delightful!

We landed at the Zattere dock, and after a problem sorting out the directions to the flat, we arrived, hot, tired, and panting. But the flat was cool and inviting, right on the big canal (not the Grand Canal, which runs through the city--the giganto canal that runs south of it). Our third-floor windows had a spectacular view of Venice, and when we opened the windows, soft ocean breezes wafted through. The building was at least 300 years old, and we could see the original hand-hewn beams in the ceilings.

We powered through jet lag, forcing ourselves to go out and about. We explored Venice quite a lot, and it was lovely. We had to walk nearly everywhere---no cars allowed in Zaterre--though I became adept at using the water-borne mass transit system.

Venice is everything you've heard. It's an incredible mix of ancient buildings and new technology. Romantic canals snake in every direction, and bridges that range from toy-sized to mega-huge cross them. Lots of narrow streets that Americans would call alleys with shops and restaurants and private dwellings. High balconies, wooden shutters, cobblestone streets. The weather was sunny and hot, but among the stone buildings the air was pleasantly cool. 

We arrived Saturday afternoon and were leaving Monday morning, so a lot of the more famous attractions were closed during our visit, but we didn't mind. It was plenty interesting and diverting to explore the streets. We wandered St. Mark's Square and learned the photos don't do it justice. It's HUGE. You could play a game of NFL football in it and have room for a couple little league games. The Basilica sprawls across the south side near the Doge Palace, and at night everything is lit up. There are thousands of people there at any given time, including at night, but it doesn't feel crowded at all. We also came across what I think was a dance school that did an outdoor street performance. These kids (young teens) could DANCE. 

We ate, too. Lasagna and pizza and gelato and squid ink pasta and more. Sorry, Italian-Americans, but Venice has your cooking beat in every way.

One of the nicer moments was the little seafood restaurant where I tried the above-mentioned squid ink pasta. Darwin and I sat right under an umbrella on the sidewalk next to a narrow canal. The weather was charming, the service wonderful, and the food fantastic. It was excruciatingly romantic and delightful.

We went on a gondola ride, of course. Darwin wasn't sure he wanted to do something so tourist-y, but I told him, "We're going to go on a gondola ride. In Venice. With a gondolier. As husbands. BECAUSE WE CAN."

There are gondola rides all around Venice. They're tightly regulated by a guild, so they all cost the same and none of them try to cheat anyone. We went to a cluster of them near St. Mark's Square. They were in a spot where several canals came together in a big pool. I promised Darwin a Handsome Gondolier Guy, and right when we arrived at the dock, just such a gondolier moved up to pick us up. His name was Alessandro. I asked about going under the Bridge of Sighs (if you kiss at sunset under the BoS, legend says your love for each other will remain eternal), but it was way far away and would increase the cost by quite a lot, so we decided against. 

The gondola was lushly appointed, with velvet seats and black lacquered wood. Alessandro stood behind us with the tiller/oar under his arm and we were off. It was wonderful. It was an entirely different view of Venice--back "alleys" and docks and narrow, twisting ways. We drifted past sparkly people dining in golden-lit restaurants and heard distant music. Alessandro didn't sing, but he did whistle from time to time. He had to duck when we went under most of the bridges, and I asked him about that.

"It's because Venice is sinking," he explained. "Three hundred years ago, the water was a meter lower, and no one had to duck." He also told us that the buildings are all built on wooden foundations, not stone, but the clay under Venice is anaerobic, so the wood doesn't rot. The oldest building in Venice is over 1000 years old. It's the one they wiped out in CASINO ROYALE, if you were wondering. The whole trip was lovely and romantic and a delight.

Sunday evening, we repacked and got everything ready for our taxi to pick us up. We decided to hire a private taxi rather than risk misreading the bus schedule, you see. In the morning, ready to leave for the cruise itself, we ran into a small problem....





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Published on August 11, 2023 12:43

July 27, 2023

Darwin and the Birthday

Today is Darwin's birthday. He didn't want to do any kind of big celebration, but I persevered. It turned ... interesting.

While the cleaning crew was going over the house this afternoon, I suggested we get out of their way and go out to lunch. We decided to look for a place on Ann Arbor's west side. But when we got there, we discovered the entire area was without power due to last night's storm. All the restaurants were closed. 

Darwin noticed we were on Dexter Road, so he said, "Let's go to Dexter. I've never been there."

So we zipped up the road to Dexter. It turned out Dexter had power, but their downtown was in the grip of some awful road construction, with traffic backed way, way up. We happened on a restaurant (the Fillmore) right at beginning of the long backup, so we decided to eat there. The weather was lovely, and they offered outdoor seating. The ambiance was very nice, but the food was ... meh. Especially for what they were charging. 

Originally we'd wanted to explore downtown Dexter, but there was no way we wanted to deal with the awful, awful traffic snarl, so we went back home. A disappointment, but a first-world one, so we weren't bothered.

At home, I assembled The Cake.

When I asked Darwin what kind of birthday cake he wanted ("Just get one from Kroger or something." "Are you telling me NOT to bake you a birthday cake? ME?" "Oh, right. Uh ... chocolate cake?" "Boring! How about a Boston cream pie?" "Oooooo! I didn't know you could make one of those at home!"), I got to work the day before, in case things didn't work out right.

Actually, Boston cream pie is pretty easy. It's just a butter cake with the middle cut out and replaced with simple custard. The REAL challenge lay in not making a full-sized cake. With only two of us, a full cake would go mostly uneaten. What to do?

I rooted through the cupboards and found my ramekins--small bowls that can be used for baking. These should work! I made enough cake batter for a single layer, which would be more than enough, but I wanted to do a test cake. If it didn't work, I'd need the batter for a second try. I poured and baked two little cakes, watching carefully, since the recipe's baking time was for a 9" metal cake pan, and these were 4" glass ramekins.

The cakes came out perfectly! I had figured on making a second set, but realized I didn't need to. Yay! In the meantime, I made the custard (custard also looks more difficult than it is) and put it and the little cakes in the fridge overnight.

Today, I made some chocolate glaze (also easier than you think), cut the center out of one layer, and filled the hole with custard. Plopped the top layer on and smoothed glaze over the whole thing. Ta da! A tiny, two-person birthday cake!

I put one candle on it, and Darwin put up with "The Birthday Song." He pronounced the cake wonderful and rich. He also appreciated his present--a pair of house moccasins. His old ones are wearing out. When you're a grownup, you like this kind of present!

And so he's a year older.



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Published on July 27, 2023 18:39

July 25, 2023

Odd Baking Result

 I decided to see what would happen if I used fresh cherries in chocolate chip cookies. I used a standard chocolate chip cookie recipe, but with almond extract along with the vanilla, and added some chopped fresh cherries when I was beating the butter and sugar. They baked up nicely, but they came out… blue?They taste great, but look really weird. I have no idea why they came out blue. If I do them again, I'll add some coloring, or frost them.

[image error]

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Published on July 25, 2023 07:15

SNW/LD

 I saw the SNW/LD crossover episode. Wonderful! One of the top ten Trek episodes of all time, right up there with "Trials and Tribblations."

Best line: "Have you noticed how people from this time talk really slow?" "Yeah, and quiet!"

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Published on July 25, 2023 07:14

July 17, 2023

The State of the Estate

The work on my brother's estate continues.  I spend hours on the phone with this company or that agency. He had an IRA with no beneficiary listed, which is causing a tangle of paperwork. He had life insurance and some stock, both of which had beneficiaries, but there's no trigger that alerts the company when the owner passes away, so I had to take care of that. Some stuff needs to be sold off (various outdoor toys like dirt bikes and snowmobiles), and my cousin Mark has nicely taken over that chore, since he knows the value of all this more than I do and he lives in a place where such things get a lot of use--and have a high demand.

His truck was a tangle--the bank refused to give me a payout amount, and even though I alerted them that Paul had died and gave them a death certificate and letter of authority, they dragged their feet and then slapped a late fee on the account. I had to do some creative yelling to get it removed. But at long last, I got the release of lien letter, freeing the truck up for transfer of ownership.

Once all this is done, I have to figure out how much to leave in the estate account for taxes next year. 

I finally got access to his Apple account, but not his phone, though we might still be able to. His computers are dead to us. All this is because we don't have his passwords.

Folks, please--write a will. Appoint beneficiaries to your retirement savings and any stocks you owe. So many difficulties and headaches could have been headed off if my brother had just written down what he had and where it should go.

And make a list of your accounts and passwords, including your phone PIN. Put it in a sealed envelope with MY PASSWORDS written on it. (That way you'll know if someone has opened it.) Leave it where someone would find it after you die. Please, please do this. I could have taken care of 90% of everything if I'd had access to his computer and phone.

Do it today!


 



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Published on July 17, 2023 09:13

July 13, 2023

Ants!

 Ugh! Ants! I have tiny black ants crawling all over my desk all of a sudden. I noticed a couple yesterday and didn't think much of it. Today it's an ant party!

Darwin and I tracked them to the window. They're getting in through the teensy space between the screen and the window frame. We tried closing the window, and I still saw ants squeezing in. Darwin McClary suspects that the landscaping just outside stirred them up.

I went to the store and bought some spray and poison traps. We set out the traps (which are supposed to trick the ants into taking poison back to the colony and the queen) and I hosed the outside sill and the bricks beneath it. Then I wiped down my desk with vinegar, which supposedly wipes out their chemical trails.

I'm seeing way fewer ants right now, but there's a bunch of them clustered around the ant trap closest to their entrance point. We'll see what happens over the next few days. I hope this takes care of it--I'd rather not hire an exterminator.

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Published on July 13, 2023 17:50

June 30, 2023

Rocky Summer

 It's been a rocky start to summer, to say the least.

Darwin's sister Linda died around the time of final exams. It was semi-expected--she'd been ill for some time--but no less upsetting. She died on a Friday, and her funeral was the following Monday. The pastor freely admitted that he hadn't known Linda, and he said it wasn't appropriate for him to eulogize someone he'd never met, so he asked people from the congregation to speak. Several people called on Darwin to speak. He didn't want to, but eventually he did, and it was heartfelt. 

A couple weeks later was the internment of her ashes, and we drove up for that, too. Only Darwin's nephew (Linda's son) and one of Darwin's sisters came for that. It was raining, fittingly. We went to a restaurant afterward.

Last week my uncle Maris passed away. At 88, he was the oldest sibling and last remaining brother in my dad's generation. Maris was deeply affected by the war years dad's family spent in Europe during and after Word War II, and all his life he struggled with deep-seated PTSD, and it made his life very difficult. I remember liking Maris (Morris in English, though no one in the family called him that) when I was younger. As I got older, these two parts of the family drifted, and I didn't see him very much. He passed away quietly in hospice, the only family member left who remembered living in Latvia.

And my brother died two and a half months ago.

Rocky start to summer.



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Published on June 30, 2023 17:53