Kathleen Walls's Blog, page 4
May 9, 2012
Mississippi: A Musical Garden of Eden
Touring Oxford on a double-decker bus
I want to share a great press trip I just enjoyed. I traveled a part of Mississippi that I didn’t even know existed: the Mississippi Delta. Yes, I knew the delta was there. You can’t grow up living next to the Mississippi River and not know she has a delta but the musical heritage of the delta was a murky secret until this trip.
It all started on Sunday, April 29 when I arrived at the Hyatt Place in Jackson. Dinner at Mint Restaurant in Ridgeland just outside Jackson was a treat and my first clue that I was going to really “pig out” for the next six days. (Hey, I’m an old southern belle, Put good southern food in front of me and what do you expect?) The décor was impressive. And so was the food. Both transport you to the French Quarter of New Orleans. The huge glowing red chandelier over the bar would do justice to a exclusive 19th century brothel in the old Crescent City. My favorite piece of art however was a crystal chandelier in the shape of a ship. It’s one of only two in existence. (The other is in New Orleans at another equally impressive restaurant. My food tip for dessert” try the Mini Beignets. They are a real winner.
Jimmie Rodgers guitar
The trip began in earnest on Monday when we left Jackson and headed to Meridian. The music began to invade our souls and get out toes tapping when we arrived at Highland Park and the Jimmie Rodgers Museum. Rodgers, a Meridian native, is considered the “Father of Country Music.”
Weidmann’s Restaurant, as the oldest restaurant in Meridian, dating back to 1870s, is chock full of tradition as well as great food. One of the most interesting traditions concerns the small handmade crock of peanut butter found on every table. That just had to have a story and it does. It seems back in the 1940s, butter was scarce due to war rationing. Someone mentioned to Henry Weidmann, the owner, that peanut butter would be a good substitute. He agreed and set the little crocks out with crackers. Through all the years, the peanut butter crocks have remained a fixture. Today, the crocks are made by a local potter and may be purchased at the restaurant.
Grand Opera House
Music, whether humble or grand, deserves a fitting venue. In Meridian, the Grand Opera House served as the home for upper crust entertainment. Stars such as Lily Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt graced the ornate stage. It also offered fare for the masses with minstrel shows and traveling company musicals. Today it had metamorphosed into the Riley Center for Education & Performing Arts. Now, today’s musical greats such as Wynonna Judd and Bonnie Raitt are gracing the stage.
Stature of Elvis at 13
The next stop on our trek was at a true music shrine, Elvis’s birthplace. Memphis has often displaced Tupelo as the shrine of the “King of Rock and Roll” but never forget Tupelo and the sites there were what led Elvis to the top of the charts. Without the humble sharecropper cottage and the little church that molded the boy Elvis into the man, there would have been no Graceland. Had Glades not purchased that first guitar at the Tupelo Hardware Store, Elvis might have lived and died an obscure truck driver.
That night we dined on an old southern traditional food at Romie’s BBQ and slept well at the Hilton Garden Inn. Knowing tomorrow we were going to delve deeper into the roots of Country Music and Rock and Roll and explore the family tree that gave birth to both and influenced all the popular music to follow, the Blues.
Tuesday found us wending our way to Oxford, home of that traditional bailiwick of southern tradition, Old Miss. The college houses the Center for the Study of Southern Culture, a research center for southern music, literature, and folklore housed in an antebellum observatory. Their University of Mississippi Blues Archive is the only research facility in the country dedicated to the study of the Blues. Oxford is also the home of many literary greats. We toured Rowan Oaks, the home of William Faulkner.
Before we delved any deeper into Mississippi’s musical heritage we needed substance. City Grocery in Oxford filled the bill. Chef John Currence’s the owner of this and four other culinary triumphs, is the winner of the 2009 James Beard Best Southern Chef award. After sampling his Shrimp and Grits I understand why.
Ground Zero Blues Club
Clarksdale is the home of so many blues greats, W. C. Handy, Charlie Patton, Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Robert Johnson and Howlin’ Wolf that we knew we were near the epicenter of where it all began.
The Delta Blues Museum there is a quick over study of these Blues greats. It houses Muddy Waters’ modest cabin and many other artifacts related to America’s own native music. But the place that claims to be the heart of the Blues culture is Ground Zero Blues Club. This former Cotton warehouse was slated for destruction before Bill Luckett stepped up and saved it. He and his partner, Morgan Freeman–yes, he is another native Mississippian–have converted the building into a modern-day juke joint downstairs with the most unique lodgings upstairs.
The small town has so many little musical nooks and crannies you could spend days and never get bored. The Rust Restaurant served a wonderful dinner.
Fans come from all over to pay homage to the “Birthplace of the Blues,” Dockery Plantation
We traveled south through fertile Delta land to Dockery Farms. This historic plantation is considered by many to be birthplace of the blues. In its heyday, it was a huge isolated plantation. On Saturday nights, bluesmen would arrive and provide the only entertainment. The workers and visiting musicians including Blues greats like Charlie Patton, Howlin’ Wolf and Robert Johnson, who reputedly sold his soul to the Devil to learn to play the guitar. A old barn bearing the plantation name and dates of operation is still standing as are several other old relics of a long gone way of life.
One of the exhibits at the B. B. King Museum
When we arrived in Indianola on Wednesday, we got up close and personal with one of the legends of both the Blues and Rock and Roll, B.B. King., another Mississippi native son. His museum chronicles it all. His rough road to stardom, and the indignities Southern segregation imposed on him and other Africa-American performers. But B.B. lived to get the last laugh. He has been honored by all races for his talent and humanity.
B.B. King sang with so many musical greats I lost count. If you have ever heard B.B. King and Willie Nelson sing Night Life, you understand how all the music emerges from the same gene pool. I am not sure if you could call that performance Country with a Blues twist or Blues with a Country twist but I just call it one of the greatest sounds I ever heard.
Got a yen to live the simple life? Visit Tallahatchie Flats. It’s as simple as it gets.
In Greenwood we drove past many of the homes and buildings used in the academy award winning motion picture “The Help.” We had to visit the grave of Robert Johnson and on the way visited Tallahatchie flats. This unique lodging is composed of actual sharecropper shacks moved to this site and “improved” by the addition of electricity. If you really want to see how the poorest farmers lived, you can rent a cabin for a night or a week or even longer.
And then it was back to Jackson to rest up before we began the second part of the trip through Mississippi’s historic past and for a look into its future. Naturally, we dined in a fantastic place, The historic Fairview Inn. As for the second part of the trip, Mississippi’s Heritage, tomorrow. As another famous southern icon said, “I’ll think about that later. Tomorrow is another day.”
So keep checking back here. You can also expect to find more of these fantastic places in http://www.americanroads.net in upcoming issues.
March 12, 2012
Bardstown–The Bourbon Capital of Kentucky
Cindy explains the workings of Barton's Distillery
Our Bardstown post tour began Wednesday morning when we drove away from the Gault House with our huge bus filled with under a dozen of us. Dawn Przystal, Vice President of Tourism Expansion and Marketing for Bardstown, had prepared an extensive tour of her town. We began with the Barton's 1792 Distillery. Here, our guide, Cindy, led us through the bottling process and answered many question about the production of bourbon. We were treated to a tasting of Barton's best products.
Dining aboard My Old Kentucky Dinner Train
Of course, Bardstown was not going to be outdone by its big brother, Louisville, in the culinary department. Lunch was served aboard on of the town's finest attractions, My Old Kentucky Dinner Train. We met our chef, Gil Logan, and were blown away by his creations, all produced n a small train kitchen. That's talent!
The tasting room at Heaven Hill
After that lunch, only Heaven could get any better and that's where we head. Heaven Hill Distilleries Bourbon Heritage Center that is We are welcomed into a state-of-the-art visitor center with its own museum-like exhibits showing the bourbon producing process. Next we tour a bourbon warehouse with a knowledgeable guide, Billy Joe. The warehousing process is more than just a storage area. Bourbon's unique taste is created while it ages in white oak barrels that have been charred. The place it is stored is referred to as a rickhouse and whether a barrel is placed near the fifteenth or the first floor makes a huge difference in the final product. Our tasting here is in the "Parker Beam Taste of Heaven" barrel-shaped tasting room. These products are also similar yet subtly different from our last tasting, mainly a result of a different storage time and position.
Love that still!
Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, our next stop, is a real family business. We were greeted by brothers-in law, Drew Kulsveen and Hunter Chavanne. They along with Drew's father, Even, and sister, Britt, operate a boutique style distillery. Their plans are ambitious and after the tour, I have no doubt they will not only be achieved but exceeded. Here we saw the entire distillation process. Love that pot still. It is so close to those old time moonshine stills. And why not. After all it performs the same task. Naturally we finished off with a tasting. One point I want to stress for anyone planning on visiting Bardstown do not think you can tour just one distillery. Each one offers something different.
Note the two orbs. Are they somthing mystical or just camera misfunctions?
Bardstown is old. Really old. Founded in 1780, it's the second oldest city in Kentucky. Almost 200 of its downtown buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. We took a little time to browse and naturally, I had to buy yet another pair of black slacks. I use that term loosely as after all the food (and bourbon) I have been shoveling in, these pants are anything but "slack."
Two of my favorite buildings downtown are the Old Talbot Tavern and the Old Jail. The Talbot Tavern was built in 1797 and had been a mercantile store, a tavern and a hotel in turn. The jail was in use until 1987. It is currently a bed and breakfast. If you ever wanted to sleep in a jail cell, here's your chance. I am not sure if the Old Jail has a ghost story but I took three pictures and all three have orbs. The Nelson County Courthouse is great also. It dates to 1820.
Michael explains about the aging process of bourbon
We spent a refreshing night at the Hampton Inn. All the conveniences of the fancier hotels, free internet, clean comfy rooms, a huge swimming pool, gym and even a free breakfast. Wish the big hotels caught on to the free internet and breakfast!
After a short down time to put our feet up and take a break, we set out for the Rickhouse Restaurant. They offer a selection of 120 bourbons and are housed in historic Spalding Hall, home of the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History. Michael from Jim Beam Distillery met us there and gave us an in-depth background of the history of bourbon. The Bourbon Blueberry Glazed Salmon worked magic with a simple fish.
From left to right: Kate, Michael and Dixie at Wickland
We finished the evening with a nightcap and spirits tour at Wickland, the Home of Three Governors. Judith Wickliffe Beckham, one of the homes former residents, is the only woman to ever have been the mother, sister and daughter of a governor. This was the most remarkable experience I have ever had on a fam tour. We were met at the stately old home by Dixie Hibbs, a local historian, and two young twin sisters, Kate and Michael. These two remarkable young ladies are mediums. They explained that they have always had spirits come to them and communicate. Sometimes by simple voices in their heads often by showing them visually. Just a few minutes with them and you are convinced they are genuine. These young ladies are not trying to fool anyone or make a buck. They are still trying to cope with a strange give or curse–sometimes they seem unsure which–that they have been given. Kate with Dixie's assistance "spoke" with several former slaves who "visit" Wickland, where they were happiest in life. For me the icing on this particular cake is that Frank James "visits" Kate. Dixie and Kate consider him arrogant as he told Kate in answer to one of Dixie's questions she was "only a woman and could not do things."
Since Frank James is one of the characters in my current work in progress, Under a Black Flag, I was fascinated to learn all I can about him. It was arranged for me to take a tour with Dixie in the morning.
Mammy's in historic downtown Bardstown
We didn't take advantage of the breakfast at Hampton's which did look good as I passed by as we were heading for Mammy's. Dawn told us it's where all the locals eat. A restaurant can have no better endorsement. It did live up to expectations. The ham slice was so big, I couldn't eat it all and the eggs were cooked to perfection. Can't fault the biscuit either. Yumee!
This exhibit relates to musicians. Drummer boys were often as young as 12 or 13 years old.
The others were going to tour the Kentucky Cooperage and see the white oak barrels that are such an integral part of making bourbon built. I headed out with Dixie. She took me to the places significant in Quantrill's last fight at Wakefield Farm where he was fatally wounded. We drove the distance Frank James would have ridden to attempt to help Quantrill escape. Since Quantrill was paralyzed from the waist down, he realized it was useless to attempt to escape so Frank rode away alone and Quantrill died several weeks later in a Louisville Hospital. We finished the tour with a quick visit to the Civil War Museum which deals with the war in the west. Since this is exactly the information I am using in my book it was a wonderful experience.
Last on the agenda was lunch at Kurtz Restaurant. I finally tried the famous Hot Brown and was not disappointed. Then it was back to Louisville for the trip home. The flight was an experience of a different kind as I was stranded overnight in Louisville due to a flight being so delayed I could not make my Atlanta connection.
March 11, 2012
Travel South: Kentucky Style
World Famous Churchill Downs
Some trips are so fantastic you just can't wait to tell everybody about them. This year's Travel South was one of those trips. It began in Louisville, Kentucky. Southern states are known for their hospitality and Kentucky is no exception. Since Travel South is made up of tour operators, the largest group, and travel journalist–we journalists comprise just a small segment–the host city is out to make a great impression. Louisville did a wonderful job of that.
As some wise person stated, "The way to a man (or woman)'s heart is through their stomach." So food and drink was an important part of this event. To welcome us to Louisville, they offered to "Talk Derby to Us" by opening up Churchill Downs (http://www.churchilldowns.com/) and the Derby Museum (http://www.derbymuseum.org/) for the Travel South participants. Even some of the horses were there to greet us. We were offered one of the best Mint Juleps I ever sipped. The Derby Museum is a in-depth look into the fastest two minutes in sports. Along with great food, we experienced the thrill of the most regal sport in the world under the twin towers at the home of the best known race in America, The Kentucky Derby. Only thing lacking was a real race.
One of the oh-so-convenient pedways
After we were so well fed and entertained we returned to the beautiful Gault House Hotel www.galthouse.com/) offering a twinkling panorama of the skyline of Louisville and a wonderful view of the Ohio River. Overnight it snowed so I was thrilled to awaken in the morning to a white world. Living in Florida I don't see much snow. Another great thing Louisville offers are pedways. These glass tunnels/artworks provide a way to navigate from the Gault House to the convention center and points in-between without braving the elements. I can see where some businesses do not like them feeling it will divert traffic from their storefronts. Still I see it as a easy way to get to a particular store if you wish when it is too cold or too hot to venture outside for long. All day Monday, we journalists visited with old friends and met new ones from convention and visitors bureaus and public relation firms from all over the South to talk about wonderful new travel experiences deep in the heart of Dixie.
Homemade Jamz blues Band From Tupelo, Mississippi plays at breakfast.
Our breakfast and lunches were set up in the convention center and sponsored by various Southern states so we were entertained as we dined. It was an encore performance at Tuesday's breakfast as I had heard that wonderful band, Homemade Jamz Blues Band, play last year at a Mississippi luncheon. They were just as exciting this year. In fact. I learned that their drummer, young Taya Perry, who is only 13, is nominated for best girl drummer at Hit Like a Girl (http://www.hitlikeagirl2012.com/videos/homemade-jamz-blues-band/) You can vote for her by clicking on the link under the video.
Learning firsthand the Secrets of Louisville Chefs Live
Second night was equally impressive. They treated us to a wonderful culinary experience, a live taping of "Secrets of Louisville Chefs." This may be a local cable show but it rivals any Cooking or Food Channel program. Filmed with a live audience at Sullivan University's Kitchen Theater, it is co hosted by Kevin Harned and Tim Laird, the CEO, by the way, that's Chief Entertaining Office. Three great local chefs prepared a dish right in front of us. Tim prepared a special cocktail to fit the personality of each chef. After the taping, we were all ushered into Sullivan University's own Winston's Restaurant, one of the foremost culinary training restaurants in the country. There each guest chef prepared the same dish he had just done on the show for us. It was a fantastic experience. Anyone can request a guest seat at Kitchen Stadium by visiting the website, http://www.newlocaltv.com (You can read more about Secrets of Louisville Chefs Live in the next issue of American Roads (www.americanroads.net) in the Fork in the Road section. That will be the Spring 2012 issue and will be out in April.
One of our first stops on the Indiana side of the Ohio River.
Tuesday, we embarked on a Taste of Louisville Tour (www.citytastetours.com/) right after breakfast. Leslie, our driver and owner of the tour promised us "Everything You Should See, Know and Taste While You're in Louisville." Leslie provided us with tasty treats as we journeyed all over the high point of Louisville metro area. We actually made out first stop just across the Ohio River in Indiana where we viewed the Falls of the Ohio and several interesting structures. Naturally food was high on our priorities so one of the sweetest stops was at Jeffersonville, Indiana where we visited Schimpffs Confectionary and Museum.(http://www.schimpffs.com/)
Another sweet spot on this tour was Kizito (http://www.kizito.com/). Elizabeth Namusoke Kizito, the owner is a native of Uganda Africa and told us she was born under a banana tree. Her aim in life it to make each day a little sweeter for people one bite at a time. Her bakery also offers many lovely pieces of African art and jewelry at reasonable prices. She brings them back when she visits her family there.
Frasier Museum's My Brother-My Enemy exhibit defines the Civil War in Kentucky and other border states
After lunch, I had some free time to browse some of Louisville's wonderful museums and sights. My first stop was Frasers History Museum ( http://www.fraziermuseum.org/). Wow! What a museum. The new exhibit related to the Civil War, My Brother My Enemy, was so interesting. As a border state, much of the information overlapped the research I am doing for my next book, Under a Black Flag, about the war in the West.
I would have loved to see some other great Louisville sights but I only had time to take a quick run by the Belle of Louisville (http://www.belleoflouisville.org/) and see her before I needed to return to the Gault House to dress for a swank closing dinner presented by Arkansas where we will be visiting next year. The dinner was held atop the Gault House at the Rivue Restaurant with a lot of glass walls. The entire restaurant revolves so we were treated to a fantastic night view of Louisville. All kinds of tasty food and drinks. Of course in Kentucky I just had to drink bourbon. And in the next post I will continue the saga with the post trip to Bardstown with its bourbon heritage and unique history. I will be posting that one soon so keep watching here within the next few days.
July 30, 2011
No Evil Deed Goes Unrewarded
Sometimes it's a sad world where evil is rewarded and good punished or ignored. We seldom hear about the unsung rescuers of cats, dogs or wild animals. We do not hear much about those who work to protect children but we always hear about those who do unspeakable things.
I, like half of the county, followed the Casey Anthony trial. I believe, again along with at
least half of the county, a psychopathic murderer walked out of that Orange County jail a free woman. It saddens me to see her behavior rewarded financially with such goodies as a $500,000 deal to pose in Hustler Magazine, possible books deals that seem to be being kept under wraps and maybe a movie deal.
This seems to be par for the course. If a famous or infamous name can make money for a company, that is the only factor being considered. Take Michael Vick. (In fact please take him far away because I sure don't want him.) He was convicted of killing and maiming multiple dogs for fun and profit. He pitted the animals in a dogfight ring in fights to the death. Then if any of his dogs lost the fight and survived, he tortured then to death. One was thrown into a pool with electric wires connected to his
ears. Another was used as a jump rope by Vick and a friend until the animal 's bloody body was lifeless and finally unable to feel the pain deliberately inflicted on it just for fun.
At least he served a little time in prison, less than two years. Upon his release, he was rewarded with a megabucks football contract with the Philadelphia Eagles. On July 1, 2011, Nike re-signed Vick as an endorser. Makes you wonder why they would sign such an endorsement deal over a busy fourth of
July weekend when it would slip by most people's attention as the news focused on local celebrations.
Not to be out-moneyed, Subway awarded Vick their "Sportsman of the Year" award. Sportsman
of the year? This sociopath who considered forcing dogs to fight and kill one another for some sickos'
enjoyment a "sport" and then beat or electrocuted helpless dogs for his own amusement is a sportsman? Not in my book!
Later in July, another company jumped on the bandwagon to laud the merits of Michael Vick. Double Eagle Holdings, Ltd, the parent company of Fuse Science, Inc. made him an equity partner. Vick also will endorse Fuse Science as the company's primary NFL spokesperson. This company make energy drinks and various vitamin and supplement products for athletes. The slogan is Vick, will be "Powered by Fuse."
There are those who say "Vick served his time. We should forgive and forget. Let him earn his living." Well I have no problem with an ex-con earning a living. I do have a problem with holding such a person up for admiration and as a role model for America's youth. He could earn his living at Subway serving sandwiches while he trotted around the counter in his Nikes. On his break, he could enjoy a nice cold bottle of EnerJel.
Meantime, I will quietly go on rescuing feral cats and earning my living as a writer and publisher. Some things I WILL NOT do are wear Nike products, eat Subway sandwiches or drink any energy drinks made by Fuse Science. Of course, he probabaly would not do as good a job as the fine young men and woman who already work there.
And next year, if any of these companies name Casey Anthony "Mother of the Year," I will not be surprised. Come to think of it, if Vick and Anthony married, they could get all kinds of endorsements as "Couple of the Year."
March 11, 2011
Louisiana’s Other Side
Crawdaddys
The Mardi Gras Media Tour began after disembarking in Shreveport. Pat Gill and Chris Jay representing Shreveport/Bossier met us and promptly took us to a late lunch at Crawdaddy’s Kitchen. Boy, what a blast of old Louisiana. The place was reminiscent of the most local-style Louisiana bayou eatery you have ever seen in those old movies. It was so real, I would not have been at all surprised if someone brought a alligator in to join us. The food was real and most of it was crawfish. You can’t get “real” crawfish very often in Florida. (or I suspect anywhere else except Louisiana) So I was in Hog Heaven. I tried several different items from the menu and all registered high on my Tasty Meter. In case any of you don’t know it I am originally from Louisiana and the food is still one thing I miss. Florida has a lot of good things but Louisiana wins on the food side.
Our wine tasting at On Cloud Wine
After good eats comes good drinks. That’s a Shreveport/Bossier rule I came to find out. Our next stop was a wine tasting at a neat little winery called On Cloud Wine. This “cute as a button” new winery is using grapes from elsewhere while waiting their first Muscatine harvest. Owner/winemaker Debbie Keckler prepares all the vintages onsite in small batches. Currently there are 14 vintages and we got to sample most of them. Penelope Peach and Bourbon St. Jazz competed for number one spot on my personal favorites list.
The shop has hundreds of adorable wine accessories for sale. For instance did you know a coozie for your wine is a woozie. I learn something new every time I travel.
Then we checked in at our home away from home for three whole nights, The Courtyard by Marriott. Ah, the bliss of not packing up each night for a new nest! To add to the pleasure the rooms were super modern, bright and airy with all you could ask from a hotel. The staff was super friendly as well.
Artist, Scott Hove poses with one of his sculptures
Before dinner we had time to check out a new art venue just opening, The Cakeland Exhibits. Food that looked like art and art that looked like food. We got to meet the talented Scott Hove who created the exciting “look but don’t taste” art. There was a “Let Them Eat Cake” sculpture designed and decorated by Shreveport’s own Tanya Clark that tasted as good as it looked. Lots of other appetizers there so we would not get hungry on the way to dinner.
One of the floats being loaded
One more fantastic stop before we dined. We visited the Krewe of Centaur’s float loading party. This is a free family-fun event open to everyone that is held the night before the parade. It’s literally “Hail hail, the gang’s all here.” The krewe are all busy hanging tons of beads and mountains of other throws, eating and drinking and getting ready for the parade. The townspeople are all wandering around among the floats taking pictures, begging beads–which are readily tossed–and eating and drinking and gearing up to see the parade tomorrow.
That's a really talented kid!
Dinner was at Bistro Byronz. The food was so varied that was sure to be something to please any palate. I was in the mood for down-home-soul food so I ordered the Pot Roast Creole. It was hot spicy and delicious. Music was in the air at Bistro Byrone too. The band consisted of a back-up guitar player and a soon to be singer/guitar player. This pint-sized wonder had just turned thirteen but had a really big voice. He is sure to go somewhere in the music field.
We also met someone who had already gone many places in the music world, Maggie Warwick. There will be more about Maggie a little later in this blog.
Making a king cake at Julie Anne's
Saturday morning we headed for Julia Anne’s Bakery and Café for a lesson in the art of making King Cakes. We all got to crowd into the kitchen in the small bakery that makes and ships king cakes anywhere in the world. It was so much fun to watch as the colorful cakes were created, each with a tiny plastic baby inside. The only part that was more fun than watching was eating the tasty concoctions. (There is going to be a lot more about the king cake tradition and the entire Shreveport/Bossier Mardi Gras celebration in the Spring 2011 issue of americanroads.net which should be online about the first week in April)
One of the many costumes on display
Next we got more into the Mardi Gras spirit at the Krewe of Gemini’s Mardi Gras Museum. Director Mary Louise Stansell proudly told us the stories behind the displays of elaborate costumes worn by the Gemini royalty for over a decade. Each costume is individually crafted of the finest materials in the most elaborate designs, worked on by craftspeople for months at great expense, and then worn only for that year’s parade and activities. The only comparison I can think of for these one of a kind treasures would be the coronation costumes of European royalty.
We learned the history of Gemini and other krewes. One interesting fact for visitors is that you can be a member and take part in a parade for a very reasonable fee. We even got to try on one of the collars on display.
Making our masks
Next stop took us to Barnwell Gardens and Art Center located on the banks of the Red River. From its plaza you can see the skylines of Shreveport and Bossier City and the famous neon-lighted Texas Street Bridge. We viewed their Mardi Gras display where we saw memorabilia and costumes from other krewes. Then we got to create our very own Mardi Gras masks.
The “Garden” part of the center is a domed tropical conservatory with a special fragrance garden for the visually impaired.
The Muffie
Lunch was a special treat. We visited Fertitta’s Delicatessen, home of the “Muffie.” In case you have never heard of a Muffie, it is a close cousin to the famous New Orleans Muffelletta a huge structure composed of a loaf of round bread, countless meats and topped with a Greek salad. Fertitta’s differs in that the Greek salad in is Papa Fertitta’s special Olive Mix, the recipe to which is a closely guarded family secret.
Papa , the inventor of the Muffie, was Sam R. Fertitta. the current owner, Agatha Ferititta McCall, his daughter, carries on the family traditions: like continuing to make the world famous Muffie and continuing to live above the deli as her parents did. The building itself deserves respect as it was built in 1927 and has never been out of the hands of the original family. It is one of only a few restaurants in the state of Louisiana on the National Register of Historic Places.
Besides, it tastes darn good. As is the pizza. And the other sandwiches and I suspect everything that comes out of Agatha Fertitta’s kitchen. The decor is authentic as well filled with family mementoes, early signs and photographs of Papa.
Everything is bowling related here
Well fed and filled with Agatha’s family stories, we headed towards the Red River with a quick stop at Holiday Lanes. It’s a bowling alley with a twist. The bar and almost everything in it is made from things in a bowling alley. The bar itself is made from the wood from an actual bowling lane. And to make it family friendly, the bowling alley is smoke free.
As we were driving around, we did get chance to spot some of Bossier Citty’s murals. These are really huge works of art that depict events in the city’s history and culture.
Interesting old wreck on the bank
The parade was scheduled to proceed along Clyde Fant Parkway along the riverfront . We had time for a informative cruise down the river aboard Captain Sandy Jackson’s river cruiser. We journeyed into Cross Bayou and got a crash course in river lore from our friendly captain.
Back on land again we were ushered into the celebrity tent for a pre-parade party. Out ticket gave us two passes for the overflowing buffet. In case you haven’t figured it out our hosts, Chris and Pat, wanted to make sure none of us got hungry. (As if we hadn’t had enough Muffles to feed an army and knew there was a feast awaiting at supper) But who can pass good Louisiana food, Not any of us that’s for sure. We all bellied up to that buffet line like a thirsty man in a bar.
My brush with royalty
The music was hot zydeco numbers like “Don’t Mess With My Toot Toot” and “Jolie Blon” It got your toes tapping and your mouth humming along. Then we were honored by a visit from royalty. the King and Queen of Centaur stopped by for a few photo opps.
Then it was what we were all waiting for, the Centaur Parade. I found a wonderful spot on a crawfish wagon pulled by a pickup. The owners were kind enough to let me hang out with them and watch the parade. I sampled a few of the crawfish naturally. They were perfect, just the fight seasoning. I told one of the owners of an experience I had at a restaurant in Florida where the “chef” mingled a few real Louisiana Crawfish with some Chinese crawfish and passed the dish off as “Louisiana Crawfish.”
Steaming crawfish are hard to beat
The wagon owner stated that was something that was being done a lot and made him very mad. “They pay for some real crawfish and then buy a bunch of the other stuff at about half the price and pass them off as Louisiana Crawfish.”
My opinion is that restaurants that stoop to this should at least be honest and call their dish “Half Louisianan Crawfish Mixed With Cheap Stuff.” I doubt it would get much call for the dish if they were that honest sooo….
One of the colorful floats
We enjoyed about 40 or so floats and marching bands before we left just before the end to beat the crowd. I left with more than my share of beads even though I had spent more time taking pictures than yelling “Throw me something, Mister.”
After a short stop back at the hotel to change we went to dinner at Wine Country Bistro and Bottle Shop. The menu had many exotic elements and is a good choice for the adventurous diner. They offer a quaint dimly lit rear dining room where we dined, spacious patio for al fresco dining or an upbeat bistro/ wine bar.
Back at our hotel, I managed to stay on my feet long enough to go take a few pictures of the carrousel just outside the hotel, the Texas Street Bridge and the night skyline across the river. The hotel is strategically located in a wonderful outlet mall but I lacked the energy at this point to explore. That wonderfully comfortable bed was calling my name.
We got to sleep late. Yah! Brunch was at the Colombia Café located in the Highland section of the city. Owner Mathew Linn entertained us with tales of the Highland Neighborhood which even had its own parade. The omelet adorned with fresh fruit was incredible but the most unique feature of the restaurant is the bathroom! Yes. The bathroom. A picture is worth a thousand words so see for yourself.
I told you
you wouldn't believe it
Our next stop was very special to me.
Elvis
It was like a dream of Hillbilly Heaven. I was walking in the footsteps of Elvis Presley, Hank Williams, Sr., Johnny Cash and many of the other Country Music greats. I was getting a backstage tour of the Shreveport Municipal Auditorium, former home of the Louisiana Hayride. The person reveling this wonderland of one of country music’s greatest shrines, was none other than Maggie Warwick. ( I told you we would get back to her)
When Maggie, then Margaret Lewis, first sought her slice of the country music pie in 1957 at the tender age of fifteen, she could have no idea that her career was to intertwine with most of the greats of country music. The Louisiana Hayride at that time was an outlaw version of the Grand Ole Opry. It was the proving ground where many a young hopeful took his or her best shot at fame.
Maggie tells about the Hayride backstage
For Maggie, the Hayride was where it all began. She met the greats of Country music there and moved on to a successful career as a singer/songwriter in Nashville.
Maggie made it all come alive for us with her stories. We stepped into the dressing room Elvis used. We stood on stage and experienced the magic of the old building. Maggie’s husband, Alton, pointed out a “no smoking” sign backstage. He explained that in the 50s, the sign was not prompted by health concerns as by the danger of fire. Of course, he said, all the entertainers mostly ignored the sign.
The building itself would deserve a visit just for the architecture even without the history. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of only two National Historic Landmark in the Shreveport/Bossier area. Naturally it has a entire range of resident ghosts.
Great for "kids" of all ages
This was one place I would have loved to continue exploring all day and into the night but there was more to see. The Sci-Port is a 92,000 square-foot science and entertainment center in Shreveport-Bossier, featuring over 290 science, space science, technology and math exhibits; daily changing programs, an IMAX Dome Theatre, open-access, interactive, laser Space Dome Planetarium, gift shop and cafe. Sci-Port is located on the downtown Shreveport Riverfront.
It is wonderful for kids but also can hold an adult’s interest. The Hubble Exhibit there is fascinating. Naturally, Chris and Pat didn’t want any of us to faint from hunger so they got us all a “Humphrey Yogart.” OMG!!! Those things are delicious! I can tell you what is in them: Yogurt topped with three fresh fruits, granola, and honey. I can’t even come close to describing the taste. You just have to go there and try one. The concession there is run by Counter Culture so you may find one elsewhere but do find one. Soon.
Meadows Art Museum
Next we visited the Meadows Museum of Art, a branch of Centenary College of Louisiana The museum houses a large collections of works by Jean Despujols. A traveling exhibit, Visions and Visionaries, Works by David Holcombe was a bonus.
Now after leaving here, several members of our “krewe” threatened to mutiny if Chris didn’t take us for some drive-through daiquiri’s, Ever the gracious host, he complied. We got to sample drinks like “Pink Panties,” ”Motel Bound” and “Pimp Juice.” They were frozen and tasty. Chris assured us the neighborhood was in sync with the drinks. We did not tarry at the stand.
The Pink Poodle
Our next treat was the whimsical Krewe of Barkus and Meoux Mardi Paws Parade. Mainly dogs, but some horses, cats and bunnies, in costume were the cutest thing ever. The humans threw beads. The pets simply marched on and stopped for regular petting sessions along the route. My personal favorite was a little pink poodle.
Last stop before heading to our home away from home, the Marriott, was the Robinson Film Center. This is north Louisiana’s only venue for independent, international, and classic cinema. The theater has two theaters and three multi-use showrooms where films can be shown or other events hosted. There is Abby Singer’s Bistro for dining before or after a film.
The entertainers for Oscar Night Party
As we were leaving we met a group of “characters” including Opra, Lady GaGa and Rooster Cogburn, who were entertaining at the Oscar Night Party being held there later.
Our farewell dinner that night was at Chianti’s Restaurant. Great Italian food. Very sophisticated and upscale. My Lobster Alfredo was wonderful.
Next morning it was back home again. But the experience will stay with us all and, I am sure it will draw me back to Shreveport/ Bossier again. Louisiana’s Other Side is a very interesting side.
For more info:
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/shvsb-courtyard-shreveport-bossier-city-louisiana-boardwalk/
municipalauditorium.homestead.com/
Louisiana's Other Side
Crawdaddys
The Mardi Gras Media Tour began after disembarking in Shreveport. Pat Gill and Chris Jay representing Shreveport/Bossier met us and promptly took us to a late lunch at Crawdaddy's Kitchen. Boy, what a blast of old Louisiana. The place was reminiscent of the most local-style Louisiana bayou eatery you have ever seen in those old movies. It was so real, I would not have been at all surprised if someone brought a alligator in to join us. The food was real and most of it was crawfish. You can't get "real" crawfish very often in Florida. (or I suspect anywhere else except Louisiana) So I was in Hog Heaven. I tried several different items from the menu and all registered high on my Tasty Meter. In case any of you don't know it I am originally from Louisiana and the food is still one thing I miss. Florida has a lot of good things but Louisiana wins on the food side.
Our wine tasting at On Cloud Wine
After good eats comes good drinks. That's a Shreveport/Bossier rule I came to find out. Our next stop was a wine tasting at a neat little winery called On Cloud Wine. This "cute as a button" new winery is using grapes from elsewhere while waiting their first Muscatine harvest. Owner/winemaker Debbie Keckler prepares all the vintages onsite in small batches. Currently there are 14 vintages and we got to sample most of them. Penelope Peach and Bourbon St. Jazz competed for number one spot on my personal favorites list.
The shop has hundreds of adorable wine accessories for sale. For instance did you know a coozie for your wine is a woozie. I learn something new every time I travel.
Then we checked in at our home away from home for three whole nights, The Courtyard by Marriott. Ah, the bliss of not packing up each night for a new nest! To add to the pleasure the rooms were super modern, bright and airy with all you could ask from a hotel. The staff was super friendly as well.
Artist, Scott Hove poses with one of his sculptures
Before dinner we had time to check out a new art venue just opening, The Cakeland Exhibits. Food that looked like art and art that looked like food. We got to meet the talented Scott Hove who created the exciting "look but don't taste" art. There was a "Let Them Eat Cake" sculpture designed and decorated by Shreveport's own Tanya Clark that tasted as good as it looked. Lots of other appetizers there so we would not get hungry on the way to dinner.
One of the floats being loaded
One more fantastic stop before we dined. We visited the Krewe of Centaur's float loading party. This is a free family-fun event open to everyone that is held the night before the parade. It's literally "Hail hail, the gang's all here." The krewe are all busy hanging tons of beads and mountains of other throws, eating and drinking and getting ready for the parade. The townspeople are all wandering around among the floats taking pictures, begging beads–which are readily tossed–and eating and drinking and gearing up to see the parade tomorrow.
That's a really talented kid!
Dinner was at Bistro Byronz. The food was so varied that was sure to be something to please any palate. I was in the mood for down-home-soul food so I ordered the Pot Roast Creole. It was hot spicy and delicious. Music was in the air at Bistro Byrone too. The band consisted of a back-up guitar player and a soon to be singer/guitar player. This pint-sized wonder had just turned thirteen but had a really big voice. He is sure to go somewhere in the music field.
We also met someone who had already gone many places in the music world, Maggie Warwick. There will be more about Maggie a little later in this blog.
Making a king cake at Julie Anne's
Saturday morning we headed for Julia Anne's Bakery and Café for a lesson in the art of making King Cakes. We all got to crowd into the kitchen in the small bakery that makes and ships king cakes anywhere in the world. It was so much fun to watch as the colorful cakes were created, each with a tiny plastic baby inside. The only part that was more fun than watching was eating the tasty concoctions. (There is going to be a lot more about the king cake tradition and the entire Shreveport/Bossier Mardi Gras celebration in the Spring 2011 issue of americanroads.net which should be online about the first week in April)
One of the many costumes on display
Next we got more into the Mardi Gras spirit at the Krewe of Gemini's Mardi Gras Museum. Director Mary Louise Stansell proudly told us the stories behind the displays of elaborate costumes worn by the Gemini royalty for over a decade. Each costume is individually crafted of the finest materials in the most elaborate designs, worked on by craftspeople for months at great expense, and then worn only for that year's parade and activities. The only comparison I can think of for these one of a kind treasures would be the coronation costumes of European royalty.
We learned the history of Gemini and other krewes. One interesting fact for visitors is that you can be a member and take part in a parade for a very reasonable fee. We even got to try on one of the collars on display.
Making our masks
Next stop took us to Barnwell Gardens and Art Center located on the banks of the Red River. From its plaza you can see the skylines of Shreveport and Bossier City and the famous neon-lighted Texas Street Bridge. We viewed their Mardi Gras display where we saw memorabilia and costumes from other krewes. Then we got to create our very own Mardi Gras masks.
The "Garden" part of the center is a domed tropical conservatory with a special fragrance garden for the visually impaired.
The Muffie
Lunch was a special treat. We visited Fertitta's Delicatessen, home of the "Muffie." In case you have never heard of a Muffie, it is a close cousin to the famous New Orleans Muffelletta a huge structure composed of a loaf of round bread, countless meats and topped with a Greek salad. Fertitta's differs in that the Greek salad in is Papa Fertitta's special Olive Mix, the recipe to which is a closely guarded family secret.
Papa , the inventor of the Muffie, was Sam R. Fertitta. the current owner, Agatha Ferititta McCall, his daughter, carries on the family traditions: like continuing to make the world famous Muffie and continuing to live above the deli as her parents did. The building itself deserves respect as it was built in 1927 and has never been out of the hands of the original family. It is one of only a few restaurants in the state of Louisiana on the National Register of Historic Places.
Besides, it tastes darn good. As is the pizza. And the other sandwiches and I suspect everything that comes out of Agatha Fertitta's kitchen. The decor is authentic as well filled with family mementoes, early signs and photographs of Papa.
Everything is bowling related here
Well fed and filled with Agatha's family stories, we headed towards the Red River with a quick stop at Holiday Lanes. It's a bowling alley with a twist. The bar and almost everything in it is made from things in a bowling alley. The bar itself is made from the wood from an actual bowling lane. And to make it family friendly, the bowling alley is smoke free.
As we were driving around, we did get chance to spot some of Bossier Citty's murals. These are really huge works of art that depict events in the city's history and culture.
Interesting old wreck on the bank
The parade was scheduled to proceed along Clyde Fant Parkway along the riverfront . We had time for a informative cruise down the river aboard Captain Sandy Jackson's river cruiser. We journeyed into Cross Bayou and got a crash course in river lore from our friendly captain.
Back on land again we were ushered into the celebrity tent for a pre-parade party. Out ticket gave us two passes for the overflowing buffet. In case you haven't figured it out our hosts, Chris and Pat, wanted to make sure none of us got hungry. (As if we hadn't had enough Muffles to feed an army and knew there was a feast awaiting at supper) But who can pass good Louisiana food, Not any of us that's for sure. We all bellied up to that buffet line like a thirsty man in a bar.
My brush with royalty
The music was hot zydeco numbers like "Don't Mess With My Toot Toot" and "Jolie Blon" It got your toes tapping and your mouth humming along. Then we were honored by a visit from royalty. the King and Queen of Centaur stopped by for a few photo opps.
Then it was what we were all waiting for, the Centaur Parade. I found a wonderful spot on a crawfish wagon pulled by a pickup. The owners were kind enough to let me hang out with them and watch the parade. I sampled a few of the crawfish naturally. They were perfect, just the fight seasoning. I told one of the owners of an experience I had at a restaurant in Florida where the "chef" mingled a few real Louisiana Crawfish with some Chinese crawfish and passed the dish off as "Louisiana Crawfish."
Steaming crawfish are hard to beat
The wagon owner stated that was something that was being done a lot and made him very mad. "They pay for some real crawfish and then buy a bunch of the other stuff at about half the price and pass them off as Louisiana Crawfish."
My opinion is that restaurants that stoop to this should at least be honest and call their dish "Half Louisianan Crawfish Mixed With Cheap Stuff." I doubt it would get much call for the dish if they were that honest sooo….
One of the colorful floats
We enjoyed about 40 or so floats and marching bands before we left just before the end to beat the crowd. I left with more than my share of beads even though I had spent more time taking pictures than yelling "Throw me something, Mister."
After a short stop back at the hotel to change we went to dinner at Wine Country Bistro and Bottle Shop. The menu had many exotic elements and is a good choice for the adventurous diner. They offer a quaint dimly lit rear dining room where we dined, spacious patio for al fresco dining or an upbeat bistro/ wine bar.
Back at our hotel, I managed to stay on my feet long enough to go take a few pictures of the carrousel just outside the hotel, the Texas Street Bridge and the night skyline across the river. The hotel is strategically located in a wonderful outlet mall but I lacked the energy at this point to explore. That wonderfully comfortable bed was calling my name.
We got to sleep late. Yah! Brunch was at the Colombia Café located in the Highland section of the city. Owner Mathew Linn entertained us with tales of the Highland Neighborhood which even had its own parade. The omelet adorned with fresh fruit was incredible but the most unique feature of the restaurant is the bathroom! Yes. The bathroom. A picture is worth a thousand words so see for yourself.
I told you
you wouldn't believe it
Our next stop was very special to me.
Elvis
It was like a dream of Hillbilly Heaven. I was walking in the footsteps of Elvis Presley, Hank Williams, Sr., Johnny Cash and many of the other Country Music greats. I was getting a backstage tour of the Shreveport Municipal Auditorium, former home of the Louisiana Hayride. The person reveling this wonderland of one of country music's greatest shrines, was none other than Maggie Warwick. ( I told you we would get back to her)
When Maggie, then Margaret Lewis, first sought her slice of the country music pie in 1957 at the tender age of fifteen, she could have no idea that her career was to intertwine with most of the greats of country music. The Louisiana Hayride at that time was an outlaw version of the Grand Ole Opry. It was the proving ground where many a young hopeful took his or her best shot at fame.
Maggie tells about the Hayride backstage
For Maggie, the Hayride was where it all began. She met the greats of Country music there and moved on to a successful career as a singer/songwriter in Nashville.
Maggie made it all come alive for us with her stories. We stepped into the dressing room Elvis used. We stood on stage and experienced the magic of the old building. Maggie's husband, Alton, pointed out a "no smoking" sign backstage. He explained that in the 50s, the sign was not prompted by health concerns as by the danger of fire. Of course, he said, all the entertainers mostly ignored the sign.
The building itself would deserve a visit just for the architecture even without the history. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of only two National Historic Landmark in the Shreveport/Bossier area. Naturally it has a entire range of resident ghosts.
Great for "kids" of all ages
This was one place I would have loved to continue exploring all day and into the night but there was more to see. The Sci-Port is a 92,000 square-foot science and entertainment center in Shreveport-Bossier, featuring over 290 science, space science, technology and math exhibits; daily changing programs, an IMAX Dome Theatre, open-access, interactive, laser Space Dome Planetarium, gift shop and cafe. Sci-Port is located on the downtown Shreveport Riverfront.
It is wonderful for kids but also can hold an adult's interest. The Hubble Exhibit there is fascinating. Naturally, Chris and Pat didn't want any of us to faint from hunger so they got us all a "Humphrey Yogart." OMG!!! Those things are delicious! I can tell you what is in them: Yogurt topped with three fresh fruits, granola, and honey. I can't even come close to describing the taste. You just have to go there and try one. The concession there is run by Counter Culture so you may find one elsewhere but do find one. Soon.
Meadows Art Museum
Next we visited the Meadows Museum of Art, a branch of Centenary College of Louisiana The museum houses a large collections of works by Jean Despujols. A traveling exhibit, Visions and Visionaries, Works by David Holcombe was a bonus.
Now after leaving here, several members of our "krewe" threatened to mutiny if Chris didn't take us for some drive-through daiquiri's, Ever the gracious host, he complied. We got to sample drinks like "Pink Panties," "Motel Bound" and "Pimp Juice." They were frozen and tasty. Chris assured us the neighborhood was in sync with the drinks. We did not tarry at the stand.
The Pink Poodle
Our next treat was the whimsical Krewe of Barkus and Meoux Mardi Paws Parade. Mainly dogs, but some horses, cats and bunnies, in costume were the cutest thing ever. The humans threw beads. The pets simply marched on and stopped for regular petting sessions along the route. My personal favorite was a little pink poodle.
Last stop before heading to our home away from home, the Marriott, was the Robinson Film Center. This is north Louisiana's only venue for independent, international, and classic cinema. The theater has two theaters and three multi-use showrooms where films can be shown or other events hosted. There is Abby Singer's Bistro for dining before or after a film.
The entertainers for Oscar Night Party
As we were leaving we met a group of "characters" including Opra, Lady GaGa and Rooster Cogburn, who were entertaining at the Oscar Night Party being held there later.
Our farewell dinner that night was at Chianti's Restaurant. Great Italian food. Very sophisticated and upscale. My Lobster Alfredo was wonderful.
Next morning it was back home again. But the experience will stay with us all and, I am sure it will draw me back to Shreveport/ Bossier again. Louisiana's Other Side is a very interesting side.
For more info:
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/shvsb-courtyard-shreveport-bossier-city-louisiana-boardwalk/
municipalauditorium.homestead.com/
March 6, 2011
Travel South-Atlanta
Homemade Jamz entertains
When we arrived back at the Omni Hotel in Atlanta, I just had time to register. Luckily, I hooked up with one of my good traveling buddies, Renee Gordon, at the desk. We tossed out stuff in our rooms and headed off for the Tabernacle where the Mississippi Tourism Luncheon was being held. SAw another fellow traveler there, Doc Lawrence.
The building is beautiful. Filled with architectural elements and vivid colors. It was also filled with good smells from the food and wailing blues notes from the band. Homemade Jamz was a fantastic band. They have won multiple award even though the oldest member is just 18 and the youngest is 12. When the lead singer had flames streaming out the pipes of his double-necked guitar, he redefined hot licks.
After a bountiful feast and an interesting introduction to Mississippi's new branding slogan, "Find your South in Mississippi" we were free until evening.
Antique Delivery Truck at WOCC
The evening's reception for us journalists only was held at The World of Coca-Cola. They had hors d'oeuvres and drinks and welcomed us to Atlanta. I met up with a few other journalists friends I have traveled with in the past: Christine, April, Bobby, Kevin, Apryl and others. We were free to wander the museum at our own pace. Here is a sample from my Georgia's Ghostly Getaways that tells what is found there.
The new World of Coca-Cola moved from its former location in 2007 and already is garnering praise for the new facility. Marketing Manager Jacquie Wansley stated, "This new facility is large enough to house 1,200 artifacts from around the world. It showcases the history of the country's favorite carbonated beverage."
One visitor remarked, "I never realized Coke has been a part of our history for so long."
A nostalgic tour of Coke-inspired pop-art and a 4-D movie combine to make this attraction fun for all ages. Everybody agrees the best part is the tasting. You can sample Coke products from all over the world.
Our dinner at Georgia Aquarium
The fun continued next door at Georgia Aquarium. We were wined, dined and entertained by a very hot band. Again we were able to wander to our heart's content among the exhibits.
With more 100,000 animals of 500 different species, Georgia Aquarium is the world's largest. Entered from the central atrium, the aquarium's five galleries, Georgia Explorer, River Scout, Ocean Voyager, Coldwater Quest and Tropical Diver, offer an in-depth look at different aquatic environments. The aquarium has the world's largest tank, holding more than 6 million gallons, making it almost as large as a football field. This is the only aquarium outside of Asia that has whale sharks and two manta rays. It's also home to several Beluga whales. As you can imagine we all had a great time.
Our waiter brings us...you guessed it...More fried green tomatoes
Wednesday was devoted to meetings which were helpful to me to get new places to write about but would bore you readers to tears so, I'll skip to the fun part. We did have a lovely luncheon provided by Travel South with a cute skit based on Glee, the TV show. For dinner we got another taste of Southern cooking at Mary Mac's. That restaurant has been a local legend for many years. Fried green tomatoes are one of my favorites. They ring my Yummy-Meter right up there with fried chicken and chocolate anything but I have had more fried green tomatoes during these ten days than ever before in my life. Not complaining but just noting that one of my favorites is becoming very popular.
Curtis Ritchardson weaves his magic Brer Rabbit story
Thursday morning was a new attraction for me. We visited Wren's Nest, the home of Joel Chandler Harris. Lain Shakespeare, the director, is the great-great-great-grandson of Harris and can offer many insides to his family history. Although born the illegitimate son of an Irish laborer, Harris got the best of a classic education from his mentor, Joseph Addison Turner and at the same time a completely different education from his African slave friends on Turner's plantation. Among people like Uncle George Terrell, Old Harbert, and Aunt Crissy, Harris felt more at home than among the white elite.
Curtis Richardson, one of the museum storytellers kept us enthralled with his renditions of several Brer Rabbit stories. We were all in stitches with his re-enactments of the characters. The man has a great talent.
After the museum, we returned to the World Congress Convention Center for another Glee Luncheon. Then it was a mad dash from my hotel room to the nearest post office located in CNN to mail out all my goodies and paperwork. It was a struggle but better than trying to drag them to the airport later and pay ridiculous extra luggage fees.
One of Scarlett's costumes at the GWTW Museum
Then it was on the Jonesboro, home of the Gone With the Wind Museum and Stately Oaks and not incidentally site of one of the most important battles of the War Between the States. Our guide was Peter Bonner of Historical and Hysterical Tours. He led us through Jonesboro in away Sherman might have envied. Of course Peter left no destruction behind just interesting stories and inside observations. One of my favorite of these inside stories was one I cited in my Georgia's Ghostly Getaways, second edition. It relates to the notorious
John Henry "Doc" Holliday, the gunfighter. The Hollidays were relatives of Margaret Mitchell's grandmother who lived at the Holidays' home while she attended Fayetteville Academy. While Margaret Mitchell was researching GWTW, she visited Fayetteville and located many of the graves of her great-grandfather's family buried in the city's cemetery. This was the nucleus of the O'Hara clan. Scarlett O'Hara attended the fictional Fayetteville Female Academy.
It's not a big stretch to assume she also based the characters of Melanie and Ashley on her distant cousins, Mattie Holliday and Mattie's first cousin and love of her life, John Henry "Doc" Holliday. As everyone familiar with the famed gambler and gunfighter knows, he left home after he was not allowed to marry his cousin. She entered the convent and took the name Sister Melanie.
Peter noted that when Doc Holliday died his possessions including correspondence with Sister Melanie, which had continued throughout his lifetime, were returned to the Holliday family. The family burned the letters claiming "there was nothing of historical significance in them." What a loss to fans of GWTW!
Peter Bonner, our guide, Scarlett and Art Carvy at Stately Oaks
Then on to Stately Oaks where we were greeted by Scarlett, Union officer Art Carvy, and the talented docents. Here again I fall back on my book for the description.
Margaret Mitchell's great-grandfather, Philip Fitzgerald, lived in Jonesboro, and it is commonly believed that Stately Oaks was the inspiration for Tara. It is an 1839 plantation home built by Whitmell Allen. It was located four miles north of Jonesboro, where Union soldiers camped on its grounds during the Battle of Jonesboro, until it was moved to its present location. It is now the headquarters of Historical Jonesboro/Clayton County, Inc.
I was enthralled by the docents stories as they led us through the house and grounds and strongly recommend it for any one visiting Atlanta.
Are those costumes gorgeous or what?
That night was the closing dinner hosted by next year's Travel South Host, Kentucky Tourism and Louisville CVB. The event was staged as a Roaring Twenties Speakeasy. It was held at Ventanas, a rooftop venue with floor to ceiling windows allowing you fabulous views of Atlanta's night skyline. Everything was staged perfectly, When you arrived you needed to give the password, Kentucky whiskey makes you frisky, through a slot in the door to be admitted. Once inside you found your hosts all dressed like characters for a old flapper movie. I saw more men who looked like close relatives of Al Capone and all the women sported gorgeous dresses with fringe and sequins, the costume completed with a cigarette in a long holder. Fortunately none were lit.
The Atlanta Skyline
I tried a delicious new bourbon by Jim Beam, Red Stag. It has a hint of black cherry and is great mixed with 7up. The food was all southern too complete with my old friend fried green tomatoes. I did pig out. Enough to last me through my non-existent meals on the flight to Shreveport for the next leg of my trip. But as Scarlett would say, "Tomorrow is another day."
Who knows maybe I'll even get it posted later today.
For more info:
Mary Mac's http://www.marymacs.com/
World of Coca Cola http://www.worldofcoca-cola.com/
Aquarium www.georgiaaquarium.org
Wren's Nest http://www.wrensnestonline.com/
GWTW Museum www.visitscarlett.com/
Stately Oaks www.historicaljonesboro.org
Kentucky Dept of Tourism http://www.kentuckytourism.com/
March 2, 2011
Mountain Magic
A Mountain Tree Spirit at Forest Hills Resort
North Georgia always holds a fascination for me. Maybe it's those wise old mountain spirits that call my name. Maybe it's the different kinds of fun found there. Then I am sure the food plays a role in motivating me to head for the hills every chance I get. So when Travel South, a new to me travel marketplace for both journalists and tour operators, offered the chance to do a very busy trip to Rabun, White and Dawson counties I jumped right in.
Dawsonville Poolroom really is a poolroom!
Bet you're thinking, "That would make a nice two week vacation." It surely would but we did it in less than thee days. Leaving from Atlanta at 4pm on Saturday, we made a shopping stop (always a sure crowd pleaser when you have a lot of female journalists in the group) at North Georgia Premier Outlets. Next we headed right for Dawsonville where NASCAR began with local moonshiners. All that shopping had stirred up our appetites so our fearless leader, Cheryl Smith, directed that bus to The Dawsonville Poolroom. There we were greeted by owner Gordon Pirkle. He proudly showed us his collection of history and memorabilia on Bill Elliott's NASCAR career and early moonshine runners.Elliot know locally as "Awesome Bill from Dawsonville" frequents the restaurant but he was busy racing in Daytona this night. We all dug into the filling food. My favorite was the corn nuggets. Of course, I have to admit that I ate a lot of other things too. Gordon's favorite menu item is the Bully Burger. He told us how one of the cooks originally created this burger by combining together just about everything but the kitchen sink on the meat.
My room at Forrest Hills. Can you imagine anything more relaxing?
Our home for the night was Forrest Hills Mountain Resort, a delightful 140 acre wilderness hideaway snuggled into the Appalachian Mountains. That huge jacuzzi in my room felt good that night. The resort has been nominated as one of the US's top 100 Resorts for ten of its 30 years of existence.
You could spend a week or longer and never run out of things to do. There are the horse stables, hiking, roaming the trails and even playing with the resident cats. You are close to the Kangaroo Conservation Center (just 3 miles away), Amicalola Falls and the beginning of the Appalachian Trail (just 5 miles), canoeing, kayaking, gold mining and so much more. There is a wonderful dining room on site where we ate a hearty buffet style breakfast.
A tiny bat sleeps deep in the mine
Then we set off to search for gold. We found our treasure deep inside the bowels of the earth as we explored a real gold mine, Consolidated Gold Mines, the largest hardrock gold mine east of the Mississippi.
Prowling around the square in Dalonega is always a golden experience. There is the old Courthouse with its mining history and the shops of every kind. My favorite is the old general store. They still sell coffee for a nickle.
The "golden" theme was carried into lunch at the Smith House.You can still see the old mine entrance inside. This former home of a gold miner was converted to a world class inn and restaurant. The food is good old southern cooking served family style and all you can eat. Yummy!!!
A baby is delivered at Babyland
From gold to babies. At our next stop we all found ourselves parenting a brand new "baby." Babyland Hospital in Cleveland Georgia is the "birthplace" of the Cabbage Patch Kids. This is as much fun as Disney except it's free. We all watched in awe as a mother cabbage "gave birth" to a brand new little Cabbage Patch girl. The "doctor" and "nurse" then took the newborn into the examination room and did some tests to be sure the little one was healthy. Strangely enough all of these kids are born with a special birthmark, Xavier Robert's signature on their little butts. We were all allowed to adopt a "kid." Mine is Evelyn Vicktoria, a precocious little beauty pageant princess. She's going to adjust well to being mothered by a travel writer as she gave me no complaints when I had to ship her home in a box from Atlanta after the trip.
An Indian Snake Jar by Melvin and Michael Crocker
The Folk Pottery Museum of Northeast Georgia was a trip back to the earliest days of Georgia's potters when "throwing" a pot or bowl was not art but everyday life. The museum is part of the Sautee-Nacoochee Community Center, which houses a local history museum as well. It was so much fun to look at this area of North Georgia history.
Next stop we headed for a quaint little Alpine village high in the mountains. Located not in the Alps but the Appalachians, Helen is a re-creation of a picturesque Alpine town. It seem to always look like Christmas there. Wish we had had more time to check it out but we needed to get checked into the Unicoi State Park. This park is filled with natural wonders including Anna Ruby Falls. If you want to rough it there are camping and RV sites as well as the lodge. The decorations in the lodge consist of some of the most charming handmade quilts I ever saw.
For supper this time, Sautee-Nacoochee Community Center brought together the best food and wine of the region to offer us a feast worthy of royalty. There were three local wineries, Habersham Winery, Sautee Nacoochee Vineyards and Yonah Mountain Vineyards, who offered us the finest fruit of their vines distilled int liquid perfection. Our food menue was composed of the best of local cooking styles from Bernies, Nacoochee Grill and Stovall House, complemented by fresh baked bread from Old Sautee Store; coffee and beverages from Sweetwater Coffee House and dessert from Scarlet's Secret. It was my pleasure to meet in person Hamilton Schwartz, the proprietor of the Stovall House who had provided me with a lot of interesting background material for my book, Georgia's Ghostly Getaways.
One of the Brave Ones
We enjoyed a fine breakfast at the Unicoi Park Lodge and headed to Rabun County to experience zip lining. I have to admit I chickened out on this one. I made it to the point of being buckled into a harness that would have held a large elephant and getting on the trial run. However, once my feet left the safety of the platform, my brain started shouting, "You were never meant to be suspended between heaven and earth dangling from a thin cable!"
I enjoyed taking pictures of my braver (or more foolish) comrades as they whisked from treetop to treetop at what seemed to approach the speed of light.
Cheryl pets one of Grape and Beans cats
Next stop was one I was able to take part in quite heartily, lunch at Grapes & Beans. It's a quint little downtown restaurant with a friendly back deck. I had a spicy Southwest Chicken Fajita with seasoned chicken, roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, tomatoes and chipotle dressing and warm fajita squares. I was happy to learn the chicken is hormone free and locally raised. The food was tasty and the owner, Sue Willis, is a cat person like me. She had a few furry friends sharing the porch. It felt just like home to me.
Nest we moved just two doors down to Persimmon on the Square where owner Mary Ann Hardman treated us to a wine tasting of her own vintages. She explained how her vineyard operates on a biodiversity principle. We learned about her sheep and the part they play in creating a wonderful vintage.
Which of us looks more contented?
From sheep to goats, Goats on the Roof that is. This is a fun stop for kids of all ages. The goats are precious and well cared for. We even got to pet Fudge, a four month old kid. Supposedly, the goats are aliens from outer space who have landed and made a home on the roof of the buildings. They prance around between the building by means of a plank and rope bridge. You can feed them by means of several clever pulley type devises. Their ice cram is out of this world too. And, no, it is not made from the goat's milk.
Janice and Erin struggle up the steps at Tallulah Gorge
From the earthy to the sublime. Our next stop was to one of the most spectacular canyons in the eastern U.S., Tallulah Gorge, known as the Grand Canyon of the East. It is two miles long and nearly 1,000 feet deep. Visitors can hike rim trails to several overlooks. Some of us hiked down to cross the suspension bridge over the deep canyon where in 1970, at the age of 65, Karl Wallenda thrilled crowds with his tightrope walk across the gorge without the benefit of a safety net. Ditto on my zip line feelings about doing something like that. (For those who want to know more about Tallulah Gorge, there is a great article on www.americanroads.net in the winter 2011 issue currently online)
We spent the night at the Dillard House, a Rabon County institution. The view of the mountains from there is spectacular.In 1794, Captain John Dillard was awarded a land grant of 1000 acres between the mountains for his service in the American Revolution. His descendants flourished and in 1917, Carrie and Author Dillard opened the present Dillard House as an inn. Over the near century since, it has flourished. Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, Harvey Firestone and Walt Disney. Arnold Palmer, Larry Bird Johnson, President Jimmy Carter, Senator Max Cleland, Mayor Maynard Jackson and Ambassador Andrew Young are among the prominent guest to have enjoyed the Dillard hospitality.
Dinner at Zepplins
For dinner that night it was a trip back to the days of old Rock and Roll legends at Zepplin's Pasta House. Owner Cappy Taylor and her husband Mark specialize in the freshest food mostly all organic. If you are a fan of Led Zeppelin, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and their elk, you will love their pictures decorating all the walls.
Is this table overflowing or what?
Early next morning we gorged on breakfast Dillard House style. The buffet was filled with just about every berry and fruit known to man. But that was not all. Soon our table groaned under the weight of eggs, bacon, sausage, county ham, grits, biscuits, two gravies and a few other delicacies. Their County Ham was chosen by Chef Alton Brown on the Food Channel's The best Thing I Ever Ate. Upon leaving we were presented a cookbook and a button that read "I ate TOO much at the Dillard House."
Then we all settled in for the bus ride back to Atlanta and Travel South. Next installment will tell about the fun places we visited while in Atlanta. So tune in same time same blog in a few days for the low down on that.
For more information:
Dawson County Chamber www.dawson.org
North Georgia Premium Outlets www.premiumoutlets.com/northgeorgia
Dahlonega-Lumpkin County Chamber & CVB www.dahlonega.org
Forrest Hills Mountain Resort www.forresthillsresort.com
Consolidated Gold Mines www.consolidatedgoldmine.com
Smith House www.smithhouse.com
Alpine Helen-White County CVB www.helenga.org
Babyland General Hospital www.cabbagepatchkids.com
Folk Pottery Museum of Northeast Georgia www.folkpotterymuseum.com
Unicoi State Park www.gastateparks.org/info/Unicoi
Sautee Nacoochee Center www.snca.org
Rabun County Convention & Visitors Bureau Authority www.rabuncountycvb.org
Chattooga Ridge Canopy Tours www.wildwaterrafting.com/chazip.php
Grapes & Beans www.grapesandbeans.com
Persimmon on the Square www.persimmoncreekwine.com
Goats on the Roof www.goats-on-the-roof.com
Tallulah Gorge State Park www.gastatepark.org/info/tallulah
Dillard House www.dillardhouse.com
Zeppelin's www.zeppelinspastahouse.com
September 15, 2009
A Travel Writer’s Life
Bust of Rosa Parks at musuem
Seems like just yesterday I was starting my blog on Travel Media Showcase in Kansas City. Last week I was just leaving Montgomery, Alabama after another wonderful hectic Travel Media Showcase. We met with lots of convention and Visitors reps, some new people and lots of old friends.
Each year we do a fam tour and this year I chose the Civil Rights Tour. We visited the Rosa Parks Museum. Incredible museum about an incredible lady! You enter and see memorabilia and then a film leading you to Rosa’a courageous act of defiance. At that point the film stops:doors open to a scene of a bus stop and becoming more crowded. You are viewing as if standing on the sidewalk looking through the bus windows.
As the bus fills with people, The driver gruffly orders Rosa to vacate her seat so a white man standing in the aisle can sit down. Rosa refuses. She is tired. Tired after a hard work as a seamstress at Montgomery Fair department store where worked. She was tired also of being treated as a second-class citizen just because of the color of her skin.
“No” she says to the driver.
The driver, Bruce, threatens her with arrest. I can call the police.”
Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church
“You may do that,” is her quiet reply that touched off the beginning of the battle for civil rights that spread like a raging wildfire from Montgomery across the nation.
Then on to the Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church where the new young pastor named Martin Luther King, Jr. picked up the torch and led his people into a peaceful quest for the right to equal treatment. If you go there be sure to see the basement mural. It is a beautifully done piece of art depicting scenes from Dr. King’s life painted by John W. Feagin. The church is also a treasure from a historic point of view because of its age. It was built in the 1880′s. Stained glass windows to the front and the ones on top of the side windows are original to that period. An interesting irony is that this church congregation originally met in a slave traders pen. It was designated a national historic landmark on June 3, 1974,
The King parsonage
Next we went to the parsonage. Some of the furnishing are the actual pieces the King family used when they lived in Montgomery. Although Dr. King preached the way o f peace and non-violent resistance, his opponents did not. There are still traces of the bombing inflicted on the parsonage when his wife and young baby were home.
The Greyhound station where the Freedom Riders entered Montgomery may only be viewed from the exterior where markers retell that story. Then we continued on to Freedom Memorial, a round, flat, granite sculpture with water flowing gently over its surface. It was designed by Maya Lin, who also created the Vietnam Veterans Memorial.
This is a trip you do not want to miss. Black or white, this is an integral part of our history.
A Travel Writer's Life
Bust of Rosa Parks at musuem
Seems like just yesterday I was starting my blog on Travel Media Showcase in Kansas City. Last week I was just leaving Montgomery, Alabama after another wonderful hectic Travel Media Showcase. We met with lots of convention and Visitors reps, some new people and lots of old friends.
Each year we do a fam tour and this year I chose the Civil Rights Tour. We visited the Rosa Parks Museum. Incredible museum about an incredible lady! You enter and see memorabilia...
