Richard McColl's Blog, page 3

Some Travelers to Colombia are Plain Stupid

In contemplating the promotion of Colombia as a tourist destination, one cannot help but question the wisdom of attracting not only the intrepid and informed but also the downright foolhardy. As travel journalists and bloggers, we often find ourselves constrained by a need to showcase only the safe and sanitized aspects of Colombian tourism, lest we risk offending authorities or straying too far from the narrative.

Yet, amidst the millions of sensible travelers who visit Colombia annually, there are always a few whose arrogance and ignorance defy comprehension. Two recent cases illustrate this point starkly.

Firstly, there’s the saga of Jan Braunisch, a Swedish tourist who embarked alone on a perilous journey up the Atrato River with the intention of crossing the treacherous Darien Gap. Despite warnings and the well-documented hazards of the region, Braunisch’s whereabouts have been unknown since he last updated his blog from Riosucio, Choco, on May 15.

Then, on Colombian Independence Day, July 20, news broke that the FARC guerrilla group was holding Kevin Scott Sutay, a former US soldier, captive. Sutay had ventured alone on a 500km trek from El Retorno, Guaviare, to Puerto Inirida, Guainía, ignoring warnings and purchasing a machete for protection. His capture is cited by the FARC as evidence of US military involvement in the region’s conflict.

While Sutay’s actions may be deemed reckless, Braunisch’s decision to traverse the Darien Gap borders on sheer folly. Extensive literature and warnings exist regarding the dangers of the region, yet he proceeded regardless.

As someone who has also indulged in risky adventures across Colombia, I understand the allure of the unknown. However, these endeavors must be undertaken with caution and respect for local knowledge. The naiveté displayed by Braunisch and Sutay is not only dangerous but also disrespectful to those striving to promote safe travel in Colombia.

In an era where information is readily available, there is no excuse for such reckless behavior. To those contemplating similar feats, I implore you to consider the consequences not only for yourselves but also for your loved ones. Let us not tarnish Colombia’s image with headlines of missing or kidnapped tourists due to ill-considered actions.

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Visiting Caño Cristales, Colombia

Caño Cristales is nothing short of extraordinary. Often hailed as “the most beautiful river in the world,” it lives up to its reputation and then some. But mere words fail to capture the true essence of this natural wonder until you witness firsthand the breathtaking display of burgundy and red Macarenia clavígera plants flourishing just beneath the water’s surface.

While I typically refrain from writing strictly informative pieces, my recent journey to Caño Cristales has left me with a plethora of stories, some of which I’m reserving for magazine contracts. However, I’m compelled to share some insights in the hopes of enticing you to gather your pesos and embark on a journey to this enchanting corner of Meta, Colombia.

Here’s what you need to know:You can opt for a direct flight from Bogota to La Macarena with Satena, saving you the journey from Villavicencio;La Macarena boasts six decent hotels, ensuring comfortable accommodation for visitors;The prime time to visit is from June to November when the Macarenia clavígera is in full bloom, painting the river in vibrant hues;The park is meticulously secured, with a notable presence of Colombian military personnel ensuring safety at all times;Yellow fever and tetanus vaccinations are mandatory;Sunscreen is prohibited in designated swimming areas due to its adverse effects on the fragile ecosystem;Given the region’s average temperature of 30 to 35 degrees Celsius year-round, dress appropriately for sun, bugs, and hiking;Stay hydrated, especially in the equatorial climate.

For photographers, Caño Cristales presents a paradise of possibilities. However, timing is crucial, as the weather significantly impacts the river’s appearance. Patience is key, as you may need to wait for the perfect lighting conditions to capture the vibrant colors in all their glory.

While the river steals the spotlight, La Macarena offers a plethora of other activities:Birdwatching enthusiasts will delight in spotting some of the 400 bird species inhabiting the sierra;A boat trip along the Guayabero river might unveil sightings of primates and pink river dolphins;Immerse yourself in traditional Llanero culture with a night of joropo dancing and savory carne a la llanera;Experience Caño Cristales from a different perspective with a charter flight in a two-seater plane;Delve into Colombia’s contemporary history, particularly its role as part of the FARC demilitarized zone from 1998 to 2002;Unwind like a local by visiting one of the many pool halls scattered across La Macarena.

In conclusion, my trip to Caño Cristales was nothing short of spectacular, offering an exotic alternative to Colombia’s typical tourist attractions. Visitors can expect warm hospitality, expert guidance, and a sense of accomplishment for venturing into a region that has only recently begun to appear on the tourism radar. While tourism is on the rise, there’s a pressing need for sustainable practices to preserve this pristine ecosystem for generations to come. As a visitor, I would gladly contribute more to conservation efforts, knowing that the Macarenenses are embracing this new industry with enthusiasm.

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Cuando el tren de vapor era el rey: QEPD Eduardo Rodriguez

QEPD Eduardo Rodriguez, el señor de los trenes en Colombia. Continue reading →

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Flights to Mompós!

There are now direct flights to Mompox from both Medellin and Cartagena with Easyfly. Come and visit the Casa Amarilla and San Rafael hotels here. Continue reading →

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A Colombia Calling inspired Christmas gift list!

The Colombia Calling podcast christmas list! Continue reading →

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Displaced Embera community occupies Bogotá’s Parque Nacional

Displaced from their ancestral lands in Choco due to increased violence, the Embera mother spoken to said that she and her family had been in Bogotá for two years. Roughly a fortnight ago they left the barrio of Los Mártires … Continue reading →

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Colombia and Ecuador are small pieces in this game of Chess

In this new great game waged between the US and China, where does Colombia fit? Continue reading →

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Mompós Photography Workshop with Malcolm Linton

Malcolm Linton is a fascinating guy and spoke with humility and care about his decades of work covering complex conflicts, including that of Colombia, as well as sharing the stories behind some of his most famous photographs.
Continue reading →

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Some photos of the 1 May demonstration, Bogotá

A few images from a short trip to the 1 May 2021 protest in Bogotá Colombia. Continue reading →

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La Roja and La Trocha, breweries of peace in Colombia

Try beers made by former FARC combatants in Colombia. They're suprisingly good. Continue reading →

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