Olaf Danielson's Blog, page 9
March 12, 2020
Birds, Bees, Squirrels, and Viruses

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Just outside my window my flowers have been inundated by bees....Eastern Carpenter Bees no less. They look like bumblebees, so what actually is a carpenter bee? These bees are large, generally much quieter than bumblebees, and have less hair on their abdomens. They are great garden pollinators and generally great to have around except they can be a nuisance since they have a taste for wood, and like chewing out holes on houses, fences, sheds and anything else. Their holes look like they are made by good sized drill bits. As far as I can tell they are not threatened. There is also a southern carpenter bee also found in Florida and distinguishing these is not easy. The above bee is a male as determined by eye location.
Then we have the curious case of the Sherman's Fox Squirrel

This squirrel has been protected from hunting for a few years and in 2017, a big study was enacted on this squirrel as worry about long leaf pine and wire grass habitat degradation impacting this species was the idea since the last survey. There was no public input during a two month period and in the end, the squirrel ended up not being listed. It makes sense that this squirrel found in similar habitat with the Florida scrub jay would be in trouble, but apparently lumping it with a more widespread subspecies is the answer....I hope not.
I just got a note that my daughter Lauren's Organic Chemistry professor just went into quarantine due to exposure to a positive individual. I assume her college (Hamline Univ) will close tomorrow. As she self-isolates 1700 miles from us, one wonders what is the thing to do? Go get her and possibly expose ourselves to a possibly fatal illness (I have risks, a lung injury from 20 years ago)? or watch birds, bees, and squirrels? Obviously, she has to stay away from her grandparents.
Life isn't supposed to have choices like this....
I could rant some more on this but well....I'm trying to distract myself. I'm still only 7 days from being on a plane south from Minneapolis so I could have been exposed, too. I was as careful as anyone could be, last to board plane, touched nothing, ate nothing, drank nothing, cloroxed the airplane seat, everything....one just doesn't know.
good luck to you all, we all need some luck.
Olaf
Published on March 12, 2020 10:33
March 3, 2020
Not your mother's Caribbean Cruise

Key West, FL 2/24/2020 It was clear on this boat even just a day into it that this voyage had a different feel to it. Bare Necessities (BN), the travel company that runs these nude cruises, is much more in the background on this cruise. Their self-appointed cruise director on previous excursions named Barry, as rumor had it, had a falling out with BN. Direction was absent on this ship, and so his hosting of parties and events was gone, and BN had no one in his place. Things like the group picture wasn’t advertised except for on the daily program. We never read it until after it happened and by the looks of the picture, not that many others did. I have seen very few BN employees around at any of the events, and even a toast of champagne given to BN was done over the loudspeaker by the Carnival cruise director. This was their 30th anniversary cruise. I guess after thirty years, things change and maybe there is more to the story. As the trip wore on, more and more people worried about the virus especially after we sailed by an infamous MSC ship that had been denied port in three countries but allowed to dock in Cozumel before a riot of some sort broke out and passengers had to be subdued by pepper spray. Would that happen on a nude cruise? One wouldn’t think so but even here, people were hogging cushions from chairs to make theirs more comfortable which seemed rude. To make matters worse, I also learned that this was a Pepsi-only cruise, unlike 2019, a Coca-Cola-only cruise. I had tried to by the “Bubble package” but it had gotten screwed up which was lucky since I couldn’t even drink any of the soda offered as Pepsi gives me an MSG-like reaction. The Carnival Legend is a somewhat smaller ship than the Carnival Sunshine, and there was less space. Possibly due to the success of the 2019 cruise and increased bookings, the organizers didn’t offer incentives to get the younger crowd on this sailing, so gone were most of the Florida Young Naturists who livened up the 2019 version and left this one with an older average age. The weather didn’t cooperate and the itinerary didn’t help matters either. Last year after a cold day at sea the first stop Carnival’s private island in the Bahamas was invaded by 3000 nude people. Everyone had a marvelous time, but unfortunately, the first stop in 2020 being Key West, with no nude options for shore excursions, didn’t get the cruise off to a great start. We landed in Key West after an uneventful first morning at sea. After turning east west of the Dry Tortugas, I saw my first seabird, a female magnificent frigatebird, but shortly thereafter, we had to get dressed to arrive into the US port of Key West. Our time in the self-described Conch Republic was only for five hours and we got in at noon. There wasn’t all that much one could do in such a short time. We rented bicycles for $16 each and looked around for a few birds and did some people watching. It is still a month early for decent birding here so all we saw was a few warblers and a few butterflies.


We drove past a block-long line for a picture at the southernmost point of the US, apparently it was the place to be with three hundred people loitering in line to do so, but seemed insane to me. I was going to take a picture of the process to highlight the absurdity of it all but that would only give credence to something that needs to be purged. I found a twelve-pack of Coke zero to bring back to the ship. Silja tracked down some lip-gloss and after a few miles of avoiding traffic we turned the bicycles in, and both of us took a tourist picture by the end of US Highway 1, something we did back in 2013, the last time we were here together. I guess this is what we have to do now each time we come to Key West.

We came back to the boat, watched it sail away and then had a marvelous dinner in the steakhouse restaurant with some Club Orient refugees, for lack of a better term. The entertainment, including the comedians were lame so we went to bed early. The next morning my wife announced that if we wanted to go to Columbia in 2021 (the destination of the 2021 Nude Cruise), we might as well just go there and arrange a birding tour on our own or just pick a nakation destination at some other place. For Silja to offer that (a birding trip) is a mighty powerful statement that cruise life is not her thing. I just hoped that we could survive the remaining five days on this trip. But I agree, getting drunk and hanging out at bars on a ship and then drinking more is not our scene, clothed or not. Hopefully, the organizers of this cruise will see that the different mix of people on this boat has left it with a different vibe and they will try to get it going, but I have my doubts and it was never happened.
Mahahual, Mexico 2/26/2020 If I was doing a nude year in 2020, I would have taken the day trip to a nude day trip near this sleepy artificial cruise destination. They made Costa Maya (the name of just the port) sixteen years ago and it hasn’t done much for Mahahual in the years that followed. Streets made and platted remain overgrown and abandoned. I haven’t been to the mainland of Mexico since 1997. 23 years ago, the Minnesota Gophers made it to the Final Four. We watched them lose to Kentucky at a bar in Zihuantanejo, on the opposite coast. As such, I needed many Mexican birds. I had made arrangements with local guide Victor Rosales, who took me and my wife out for the day as no one else on the ship wanted to go. We started at the Chacchoben ruins.



Victor quickly got us in before the cruise ship passengers and we scoured the area for birds. We saw spider monkeys and the best bird we found was just a laughing falcon, a bird I’d seen in Costa Rica, but still a nice bird and photo.

We drove around a little and saw some fun birds including six lifers. I had a camera malfunction on a squirrel cuckoo, but at an abandoned spa we found three black-headed trogons, the best bird on the trip for me.


Victor was a good guide and a nice guy. It was lucky to have found him by chance. I’d recommend him for any birding in the area. I didn’t bring up the fact I am a naked birder. I figure it would get lost in the translation. Maybe I could have added a few birds to my lifetime naked list, but I was just happy to do my own thing for a day and avoid the cruise ship outings.



Paya Bay, Roatan, Honduras February 27, 2020
My re-return to the Garden of Eden, my name for Paya Bay Resort on Roatan happened in the middle of a downpour. Unlike 2019, we had no goofy stores after being hungover playing naked beer pong to the wee hours of the day. We’d gone to bed early and the difference of ship time and local time did not cause us any issues. But this was no beach weather day. It was windy, wet, and nasty outside. The rain according to Forest Gump could be described as big ol' fat rain.








I thought about how I had ended my 2016 big year here with the death of my grandmother the day after returning. I thought about what I had deduced in 2019, in that I needed to spend all trips, if possible, with my lovely bride of nearly 30 years. In 2020, I thought of some what ifs…what if we’d die from COVID-19 and the coronavirus? What if the world economy collapsed? What if we’d never get back here? Edward Abbey, wrote in Desert Solitude about finding the prettiest place on earth, which is different for different people. His was the redrock country near Moab, Utah. Ours was St. Martin until it wasn’t and now, maybe it is here at Paya near this tree. Maybe, like I read in a book here on our 2017 visit in Finding Abbey, a book about finding the hidden grave of Edward Abbey, it isn’t about actually finding anything. It is about the search, and maybe that is true for us. Life is the journey, and NOT the destination. We drove back contently to the ship and shortly, it rained again. That evening we met up with two couples we had met on the Grand Canyon nude rafting trip and had a great reconnection. That is also what life is about, the connections.
You could have read about the Cozumel portion of this trip already so I'll just repeat pictures of two of my lifer birds.


Leap year day on the Carnival Legend turned out to be much like the rest, rather plain and without much excitement day. I did spot a red-footed booby and a brown booby somewhere north of Cuba as we waited out this day at sea looking for something to amuse ourselves, I began to think about the previous week. Some of the other guests were saying things like even that was a waste of a very good week. I tried to think of a phrase or word to describe this trip. The trip wasn't bad, the food wasn't bad, and well, the company was good.All I could come up with to describe this cruise was white toast—white toast without butter. Like I said, this cruise wasn’t bad just like white toast isn’t bad, but it was unremarkable and just plain, and nothing really worth writing about any further.It made me think of larger issues, like one can’t go back to the past. The past is past. The 2019 cruise was great but past fun has no bearing on future fun. In a larger sense, and how I started this project, St. Martin was fun but it is now gone and over so now we are moving on, finding newer and hopefully other great things to experience. Many of these trips will lead to new birds, sometimes I will be wearing clothing and sometimes I won’t be. Silja and I decided to buy an RV lot in Lutz, Florida from a seller who lives in Alberta and is having health issues and I think we will avoid most cruises in the future unless they are going to exotic locations like the South Pacific. Other St. Martin owners are buying condos in Treasure Island and another, a house nearby in another nude development, Paradise Lakes. Maybe Club Orient will like a phoenix, rise again some day, and if that happens, we will probably add it to our itinerary. This fall, going to Asia.and Brazil.All I can say is that wherever we go, we will wear lots of sunscreen and in all likelihood, you, my readers will get to read about it.
Published on March 03, 2020 07:03
February 28, 2020
Two out of three ain't bad

This brings me to Cozumel, and island I'm not so happy with in general, as the whole seven cruise ships landing at the same time scene is not my scene among others.
I was here last year, I saw some birds, but missed all the endemics....today....I had plans
1) Get some sun
2) Avoid Montezuma's revenge
3) not let the duty-free store and the shops get to me
and
4) Get two birds
Why just two birds?
Cozumel has THREE Endemic birds
the three Cozumel named species
the Cozumel vireo, the Cozumel emerald, AND the Cozumel thrasher, one if I find it, I'll be a hero, or nobody will believe me, and this leads us to why one should go see these birds ASAP.
Unfortunately, there is another problem with island endemics, their propensity to go extinct. Living in a small place with limited resources can lead to problems should habitats change or a new predator shows up like rats, snakes, and cats, the Cozumel thrasher fits in here, more on that later
After a few hours on a private beach today, Silja and I walked over to the Planetarium to try to dig out at least the vireo. Like I said, my 2019 visit to this place failed. We came back to the center of the economy on the island and ran the gauntlet of people selling cigars, renting scooters, selling leather, and everything and started to look for the vireo. It took a while and even after I found a trail in the hammock, well, sort of a trail, we saw some warblers but then, the vireo showed up and almost let me take a good photo.


So we then went back out to the flowers in the parking lot. I saw a hummer in a tree and then I lost track of it...I looked everywhere and then my wife spotted it. It was the wrong hummer, a green breasted mango sitting on a nest. It was a cute bird, though but one I'd seen many many times on Roatan

A local woman was sweeping the sidewalk and then a young man came rushing at me and then pointed a few feet behind my wife. I was suspicious, but then I looked in the small palm tree...
A female Cozumel emerald on a nest

That was a lucky find and it left only the Cozumel thrasher, unfortunately, that is a bird that has not been seen since 2007, and now presumed extinct. No one is totally sure, but the numbers dropped after hurricanes and invasive boa introductions have also been implicated. This bird may still be out there somewhere, but I never saw anything that even looked like a thrasher. Two out of three ain't bad to steal a Meatloaf saying.
Cozumel...? Now I won't have to come back, so it is all good news, well except for the poor thrasher....
Olaf
Published on February 28, 2020 17:01
February 21, 2020
Studying the Historical records of Birds

Art History meets birding, archaeology meets ornithology. In 1902, Paul Gauguin painted Le Sorcier d' Hiva Oa, (Maquessan Man in a red cape). I have always been a fan of Gauguin but I had never seen this painting that hangs in a museum in Belgium. Gauguin painted this while he lived on Hiva Oa and then a year later he died and was buried on this minimally consequential island in the Marquesas. This painting's importance transcends art, it transcends a lot and what we know about species and what "scientists" have reported or what is found in books.
Sometimes something odd is the important thing on a work of art. Others see the color, the depiction of native life, the bigger meaning, and a select few only see birds. Located in the lower left of the painting (viewer's right) is a depiction of a dog killing a bird, and not just any bird, a bird scientists had only a fossil record of and thought extinct as much as 600 years before white man had even visited this lonely South Pacific Island. It is a bird Gauguin would never have even read about because the fossils hadn't been found in 1902.
Yet somehow Gauguin saw one, and even more amazingly, he painted it, he painted a bird not "discovered" until well after his death in 1903 but still described by islanders. How could that be?
Porphyrio paepae the Marquesas swamphen, is a thought extinct flightless bird similar to the many rails that populate isolated islands all over the world from the Galapagos to Mauritius to the Atlantic, it seems a flightless rail pair found themselves on just about any isolated piece of land and started a new population which evolved into a new species. How and why did this happen on Hiva Oa? The story is incomplete and will probably always remain so.
I saw a Gough moorhen in the South Atlantic and scientists don't agree how this bird may have repopulated Tristan da Cunha after the bird was extirpated on that island a hundred years ago and suddenly reemerged fifty years later. The answer there is that it must have been reintroduced by islanders of course because how else could it? Eventhough the local population on Tristan disagrees.
Gauguin painting a picture of a bird no white man had seen on the island he died and was buried on is one thing but is there more? Are there any other reports?
By chance, I am reading a copy of Fatu-Hiva, back to nature we bought at a Monastery that was liquidating. This is the somewhat incredible and amazing tale of Thor Heyerdahl's first epic adventure to an island to do an experiment in becoming Adam and Eve. How he convinced a 17 year old woman to do this before he had even dated her, is also amazing, but I digress. Thor Heyerdahl is my inspiration and the best explorer of the 20th Century IMHO. Later, he would sail Kon-tiki in an even crazier tale, but one in which he got his inspiration by what else he saw on Hiva Oa, statues and stone carving of things that don't occur in the South Pacific, including large cats and huge crocodile resembling lizards. He pondered where the artists had seen their subjects and unlike everyone else in academia, he turned towards the east and South America.
On page 161 of this old book he writes...
Suddenly Terai halted his stallion and pointed to the trail in front of him. We had reached a hillock with low ferns, and a bird without wings was standing in the middle of the path, watching us. Then it ran faster than a little hen along the trail and disappeared like lightning into sort of a tunnel in the ferns. We had heard of the wingless bird, a strange species quite unknown to ornithologists. The islanders had often seen it but never managed to capture one, as it always disappeared into holes and tunnels at great speed.....we searched a labyrinth of galleries crisscrossing the fern-clad hillocks, but we failed to see this mysterious bird again.
Wow, that sounds like a flightless rail to me. This was in 1937, 32 years after Gauguin's painting and generally like his actually proven theories (he recreated the sea voyage on Kontiki among other things) on the origin of the Polynesian people that came from the east and not the west, this report has been largely ignored or dismissed. How could it not be true? What other bird could it be? Why would Heyerdahl make this up? Not one for hyperbole, he found statues and even Gauguin's old gun, in which Gauguin had carved the stock. So why not see this bird?
Rails are strange birds and serial colonizers, one, the Aldabra rail evolved twice on the same island after it colonized it, got extirpated from a flood and then recolonized it thousands of years later and re-evolved through a process called iterative evolution into basically the same flightless bird.
There has also been much debate about the Tahiti Rail,

If a bird lived but no one took a picture or no official scientist captured a specimen did it even exist at all? Listers of birds, like me, fight this all the time. What is evidence? Even with a picture....it needs to be a better picture, or is the picture even taken where they say it is? It never ends, armchair skeptics and internet trolls are everywhere. I can only imagine the naysayers at meetings accusing Heyerdahl of never actually making the Kontiki voyage
Many of these birds are extinct now, or haven't been seen for so long, they are considered extinct, but the rail on Guam has had it's numbers increase. That bird almost went extinct due to the brown tree snake, many others were eaten or destroyed by rat invasions.
In the big scheme of things, if a bird went extinct in 1412, 1902, or 1937...does it really matter? Dead is dead, right? I think it matters. We need some hope, since exotic birds are going extinct, that is a fact. There have been stories of people seeing extinct Hawaiian birds over the decades. These have not been proven. Sometimes they are spoken of like one would refer to a mentally challenged relative, dismissively and condescendingly. I guess it would be nice to know if the Ivory-billed woodpecker still exists somewhere in secret, maybe in Arkansas, the Big Thicket in Texas, or maybe Cuba. I know of a few people who have spent time looking, and well, imagining a sound or a flash of a suspected bird. Many birders and especially lay people think these people need to up their lithium doses, but I think a few of these birds (rails or woodpeckers) are still out there, somewhere. Which is more likely...bigfoot or the ivory-billed woodpecker?
The Imperial woodpecker may still exist in the Sierra Madre but some searchers have never came back from looking probably killed by drug lords, and so any wide spread searching seems like suicide to me, but who knows, it is good to have hope.
So, if Thor Heyerdahl had a bird list, he had a bird on it no one else in the 20th century had, and a bird none of the rest of us will ever see, but there are still cool birds out there as I try to get 8000 world life birds.
I'm not heading to the South Pacific this year, but suspect that in 20 months, I will be following in the footsteps of Paul Gauguin on my way to New Zealand, assuming COVID-19 doesn't get me. I got easier birds to get in the meantime. Although 2020 is a rather tame year, on Saturday I leave for a trek to fill in some holes from my Mexican bird list, then I'm lying low until fall for trips to Brazil and Bhutan where I should get me some cool stories and interesting lifer birds.
It does amaze me that even reading about another interest I have (megalithic archaeology) occasionally I get distracted into the land of birds.
Art history and ornithology have come together to solve a mystery...or maybe cause one....who knew?
keep exploring
Olaf
Published on February 21, 2020 11:07
January 14, 2020
Everything old is new again

I figured that eventually, I'd get a duck called the white-cheeked pintail in Florida, a bird I have seen no less than a thousand of, (in St Martin) and a bird of some difficulty in that there are white cheeks at Busch Gardens, exotic duck ponds, zoos, parks, and all over the state. I chased one in December 2017 on Key Biscayne and missed it by a few hours and then flew all the way back to San Diego for a Nazca Booby and then flew all the way to New Brunswick for a mistle thrush and a crazy 2 out of three "Z" ain't bad double, five days of basically flying--crisscrossing the continent in a Z . It was nuts. That bird was pretty much felt to be a legit wild pintail but most of them are suspect, and I was in no hurry.
This bird showed up as we we were getting to Costa Rica and I was suspicious, it was on the wrong side of the state from where this bird lives in Cuba and the Bahamas. How did one get to Naples and in a golf course pond no less, but as it turned out, it was unbanded, no clipped toe, was acting wild, and then the local birders even got a weather consult. The SW Florida Birders are quite thorough and persistent. Dave McQuade forwarded this to me.
I am an atmospheric sciences professor at Penn State University. Last week, while on a family vacation, I saw the White-cheeked Pintail presently in Naples, Florida. Yesterday, I looked at weather maps that preceded the occurrence of this bird. I generated and then downloaded these maps from the NOAA/Physical Sciences Division Climate Analysis and Plotting Tools website, which is https://www.esrl.noaa.gov/psd/cgi-bin/data/getpage.pl . I have posted these weather maps on eBird, together with a detailed discussion of the maps in relation to the occurrence of the Naples White-cheeked Pintail. The eBird link is https://ebird.org/checklist/S62795465 .
The weather maps show winds that are favorable for a vagrant White-cheeked Pintail that arrived either in the early afternoon of Dec. 27 or sometime during the day on Dec. 28, 1-2 days before the White-cheeked Pintail was first observed in Naples on Dec. 29. On these two days, the wind vectors are oriented westward from the Bahamas toward the southern tip of Florida, and farther to the west, the winds are oriented northwestward in a direction parallel to the southwest coast of Florida. Therefore, if the White-cheeked Pintail is indeed a natural vagrant, and it flew parallel to the local wind vector, it could have flown westward from the Bahamas to the southern tip of Florida, and then parallel to the southwest coast of Florida, coming down in Naples. Following such a route, the White-cheeked Pintail would have first encountered land on the southwest coast of Florida, not the expected east coast of Florida. In other words, the weather 1-2 days before the White-cheeked Pintail was first seen appeared to being close to "perfect" for its occurrence as a natural vagrant in Naples.
There are no other times during the entire month of December 2019 that were favorable for a White-cheeked Pintail reaching Naples. The wind direction on the morning of Dec. 27 as well as 15 days earlier on Dec. 12 was also westward, but the bird would have had to cross all of southern Florida to reach Naples, an unlikely scenario.
In summary, the weather maps suggest that the likelihood that this bird is a natural vagrant is substantially higher than that for a typical White-cheeked Pintail sighting in south Florida.
Steven B. Feldstein
Professor and Senior Scientist
Department of Meteorology and Atmospheric Science
516 Walker Building
The Pennsylvania State University University Park, PA 16802 USA
It was good enough for me. We left South Dakota on Wednesday and drove down hard, we got a little ill, had to watch the NDSU Bison win a national championship, the Vikings lose and the Packers win, and then today I could go.
I took along a local guy a few campers over from us at the campground, named Tim on his first bird chase and he thought it was interesting.
We got delayed thirty minutes when a pickup with a trailer got wedged into a McDonald's drive-thru, and then I was shaking my head wondering how come I hadn't gone to McDonald's before the gas station. While we were waiting in the overflow line for our sandwiches an employee sheepishly walked out to us asked if we could substitute bacon for sausage, something we didn't want to know about happened to all of the sausage.. Maybe it was good we weren't earlier? Things always work out for us.
We got down to Naples and then scouted the area and luckily I saw two birders I recognized from Connecticut, and I think from another duck chase to New York for a garganey in 2016. They had scopes up, we stashed the car, walked a couple of blocks and I set up shop, got my scope up and bingo, there it was on the other side of the pond loafing with some blue-wings and a small group of mottled ducks.


Some bikers rode by and asked what the name of the duck was that we were watching. "Fred!" I yelled back. It could be an Ethel, I guess, the sexes are the same with this species. The guys from Connecticut left and who should walk up to me, but Tony Lau from Minnesota. It was old home week, again, in Florida, last time I met an old birding friend from Georgia and Alaska down here and now Tony, small world birders
I've chased a few birds with Tony before. "I thought you were in Costa Rica." Tony said.
"Yea, that was last week." I replied, it was.

Then a boat moved into where the ducks were hanging out and they all flushed and the white-cheeked pintail flew up and over my head and that as they say, was that. It was gone. It was good we hadn't slept in, the duck wasn't waiting around today. What they guy in the boat was up to, wasn't clear, but if his goal was to push the duck somewhere else, it worked.


Tony had gotten lifer bird 559 I think, and this was 803 for me, depending on what I am doing with the yellow chevroned parakeet, countable now in California and I'm not sure what they are doing in Florida, seen one as recently in Florida as last year and I haven't counted that one. Luckily a sixth birder showed a minute before they flushed and just got the bird, so everyone I met was happy, even Tim, surviving his first bird chase. His significant other was getting an ultrasound for a DVT at 2PM so we needed to hurry back to North Tampa.
I also saw a nice green heron


All year birds because it is a new year and everything old is new again, you got to love us listers our lives repeat every year, just like the white cheeked pintail, a common bird I don't even take photos of in the Caribbean anymore (I got great ones) is today's great bird!
Again everything old is new again...
Congrats Tony! Good lifer
Me, I'm getting the beer chilled
Cheers!
Olaf
Published on January 14, 2020 11:19
January 8, 2020
Storks in the Attic and Skeletons in the Closet







Why didn’t she pay to bring Aunt Ethel or Grandma Lucille with? They seemed to be the only relatives that cared a little about her. Three months with Verda pulling the strings in Europe? OMG! That would have been an adventure,
I’m glad I have my children. I’m glad I have all the we’ve done together. I’m extremely glad we had this last Thanksgiving cleaning Grandma's house, but please, PLEASE, though, take these Kodachromes away!













Olaf
Published on January 08, 2020 20:00
January 6, 2020
The Hunt for Tody, it takes a lot of Cojones

The 2019 version of the New Year's family trip was going to Costa Rica instead of St Martin for the obvious reason that our house was gone and for two additional reasons. First, my son, Tyko bought me a Costa Rican bird guide as a gift. I figured it was an omen. Secondly, Suncountry as cheapand direct flights to Liberia. It was difficult to find accommodation on short notice but we found two rooms at the small Finca Verde Lodge. It was neither nature hotel nor much of anything. It was out of the way, in the forest featured only four rooms and it must be birdy, I assumedAs I suspected the flight south on Suncountry was late. It wasn’t for the lack of a plane. A bad snowstorm was coming and the area around the airport was coated in freezing rain. Driving to the airport took cajones, big ones. I peered over a rather slick and steep hill on Danvers Avenue north of the MSP airport and it was like looking into a abyss, but inch by inch, I slid the truck down and then crossing the Minnesota River cars were all over the highway. People passed the first six car pile up and tried to drive fast. Behind us, someone was sideways on the bridge. Luckily, we got through but a flight attendant didn’t and our departure was pushed back well over an hour.. Such are the joys of travel. We’d get there when we got there and although I was worried about finding our tiny hotel in the dark, I guess we’d get there too, when we got there. Even if it was tomorrow. There are five things that one needs for a stress-free and happy trip. First, the airlines need to fly on-time and safely. One’s luggage needs to arrive, and you need to pack the correct items. Then, you need your local transportation, you can't spend the entire trip at the airport. Forth, you need your hotel or at least a hotel. Finally, you need some food, eventually. Well, on this trip, we had some of these. Is 2 out of 5 not bad? How about just one?As a person who packs light, packing is usually easy. Often the question is whether to bring a towel or not to bring a towel, but this is a different sort of trip. The night before departure, our son Allwin checked up the weather report. Liberia, Costa Rica is the driest place in Costa Rica and it is firmly in dry season. I had my rain forest gear packed—camera rain guards, dry bag, rain coat, rain hiking hat, and assorted smaller waterproof bags, zip locks and such. I scratched my head, as my carry-on was tight on space, and at the hotel in Minneapolis, I rechecked the weather, dry skies ahead for as far as we could see. So, I throw out the raincoat, the second coat, then the dry bag and seeing I could squeeze in a bathrobe, I through it all out. Then somehow, I forget to put all but a two shirts back in. Now, I’m ready (except for not knowing I forgot to pack many shirts) Our 9 AM departure time slides as we realize something or someone is missing, first, to 10 and then 11, we board. then we got two flight attendants that show, one goes and the other stays, that takes thirty minutes to sort out, then we got to de-ice. We leave three hours late. It is a safe flight. So, we land safely, get through customs and I hunt for Hertz. Hertz is always the best? I find the guy. “My Daniel. I got good news and bad news for you. We no longer have a car for you, but these guys over here, do. They have just the car.” It turns out they did for $600 more money and the Tucson becomes a Prius, which becomes a Tucson again. No deals there. The guy gave me a card to call so I could get a better rate next time. What can you do? I can complain to Hertz. They aren’t going to help. We needed a car. It was late, the family was starving and we still had a couple of hours to drive in the dark, maybe only forty five miles but the traffic in Liberia is awful we are warned. We headed out. We found our hotel, the Finca Verde Lodge, in Bijaqua, on the slopes of the Tenorio Volcano. We creep up a dark and rutted road to a sign that is painted on an old satellite dish.




Lessons learned and with nothing else to do. We started a slow search for birds especially, the hunt for tody, the tody motmot, a bird that I’ve searched for in Belize twice, Honduras, once, and well, let me put it this way: I have seen more jaguars, more ocelots, more poisonous snakes, slept on more docks, and been rescued more by Francis Ford Copula than I’ve seen tody motmots. In Costa Rica, they are found only around three volcanoes, the two that Bijagua sits in between, and another farther northwest. It was one of three birds I really wanted to see. The aracari wasn’t even a lifer bird. I had seen one on the steps of a pyramid but had run out of film twenty years earlier, the resplendent quetzal would be something very lucky to find the single day we would be visiting its habitat a three-hour drive away.Luckily, the local trails we hiked in were prime tody habitat, so I just pretended to be hiking. But as the week went on one thing became clear, I was seeing a steady diet of lifer birds, but not tody. I listened, I called, I even used payback a little but nothing. I wanted to find toucans but none of them appeared. We got lucky and got a reservation at the French place for New Years eve, that was nice. January 1 night? Crackers and peanut butter. Nothing was open or at least open and had food. Then a got a desired photo, a collared aracari, then it seems, they were everywhere, even the local feeder


then two and would you believe three?


Could there ever be five collared aracaris on a platform? Yes, but the variegated squirrel said otherwise as the fifth landed it came and stole the banana.

then we got yellow-throated toucans

keel-billed toucans

We saw Lesson's motmot

Broad-billed motmot but no Tody

Between the lumps, the splits, the renames, it was overwhelming. I'm still looking at photos.

Gosh and then there were the butterflies....I just punted, it was 4th down and 70, in a real game I would have taken the safety...geez.

Then we have flycatchers....OMG


My wife wanted to see a quetzel before they go extinct, so we drove up into the highlands, three hours by bad roads. We hiked in a preserve, but all we found was quick glances at small birds and poisonous snakes

So no quetzel...so we went to lunch. I saw four individual birds sitting outside after lunch, all lifers and the only ones of the trip
Magenta-throated woodstar

Striped-tailed hummingbird

Silver-throated tanager

And then...he flew by, not a tody, but a male resplendent quetzel THE bird of Costa Rica

We continued roaming around and seeing single birds that were representing speciesWe saw a black cowled orioles

Even pacific screech owls, we had two at this roost we stumbled upon when I was trying to point out a red-lored parrot seen clearly through a window above them. My wife thought I was joking. "Your showing us the owls correct?"
"What Owls?" It was a lucky parrot


I saw a slate throated redstart, not a lifer, but still cool



We had sloths over out cabin...


We had Capuchins raiding bananas

Howler monkeys waking us up, every morning at first light


We floated the river for boat billed herons and bitterns.

No tody! But we were seeing a tremendous variety of birds. So the search for Tody continued on to the last day. I went out early and grabbed a local guy who showed tourists the sloths, he seemed to know some about Tody, yea, close by, yes, we started 150 feet from where I woke up and then.....he whistled and then it answered, we got closer and closer it kept answering and then...IT RAINED!!!!! We aren't so lucky as a mist or a passing shower, it hadn't rained this hard all week, and Manny went back to the cafe. I followed, slipping on the the mud climbing out of the rivine. I had breakfast, drank coffee and swore quietly. SO CLOSE!!!!! I finally walked out to the road and screamed. Screaming helps sometimes. The rain stopped. Manny saw me walking back. "You okay boss? I heard a funny noise." He asked. "Go find Tody now." He said and off we went, he whistled once and there it was. Tody motmot

We fist bumped and he went back to work and then the family went out for the final hike. I walked four hundred yards on the volcano to the north and then another tody flew in.

It was also there on the way back, another flew over my head, and then that evening, they called behind my bed, one was on the way to drinks, motmot here, motmot there, a tody motmot everywhere. The way it goes. One day's nemesis is another's trash bird. It was time to go home, now that the birding gods were mocking me.
It took my seven days to get the photo of the lone long billed hermit feeding at a small group of flowers ever morning at 0830 over a river. five mornings I could not get a shot and on the final morning I got a photo, one hard bird to get and even at this, it isn't that good of a photo.\

It was a bit overwhelming. 63 lifer birds....and a great family trip. It was a fun spontaneous trip, it seemed we got by at times on a wing and a prayer but no one died, just one awfully big spider in a shoe and some close encounters of the slithering kind. I left some Costa Rica on the bone, so I'll be back. Tody....? Nemesis no more that bird.....I came I saw, and then I saw some more...oh well....even a bonus quetzel, and even the Vikings won....life is GOOD
Olaf
Published on January 06, 2020 12:37
December 24, 2019
Pearl

Barry resent me a pin location on the 23rd, so deciding that a 60 mile drive was better than a 500 mile drive up to NW Minnesota to get my year owl, it was then he sent me a link. This owl I was chasing even had a name..."Pearl"
Pearl is a two-year-old female snowy owl, trapped Nov. 27, 2019, near Woodworth, ND by Matt Solensky of the U.S. Geological Survey’s Northern Prairie Research Center,and named for nearby Pearl Lake. Her transmitter was funded by generous donations from the public. It had made a bee-line for my ranch right after it was tagged.
The grey dot is my ranch, it spent December 12th on my property.

Including this one with something weird going on with it's beak.

I climbed up on the Coteau, drove around, I met up with a coyote hunter. He told me a cryptic tale of his son having been seeing snowy owls around as he worked nearby. It wasn't a hot tip so we parted ways. I flushed, of all things a greater prairie chicken, no small find itself, at least up here. There are a few occasionally around. I saw one ten years ago, thirty miles northwest of here. Some birds are probably dispersing from Minnesota as they are known to disperse. Tagged birds in Wisconsin dispersed hundreds of miles and they were known to even migrate back in the day. This was just a single bird, and it flew in from the north. I tried and failed to get a good picture.
Then three miles away, I tallied three crows on a carcass and three sharp-tailed grouse in a tree. It was slow birding, but better than the day before and then I began to think. Where could that guy's son even work? I was in the middle of nowhere. There isn't even a house on every six square miles. A milk truck passed me as I was pulled off the side of the most major road in the area. I looked at a starling, then it hit me. A dairy! There was a large dairy about a mile southwest of me. Owls eat rats, dairies have rats. Then I thought like an owl. I've seen two snowy owls in trees, maybe 20 on fence posts. One on a round bale, some on the ground, and on the ground with this snow would be nearly impossible to find, and a few on normal electrical poles. The most I've seen in the Dakotas have been on the big transmission towers. I could see way down behind me a new high transmission line, carrying power from a new windmill farm, the banes of the prairies, crossing the road behind me about two miles. I stood out and followed it, wondering where it went. I saw a mile south it turned and ran parallel of me heading west. Most of the roads here are not passable in the winter, and are barely passable even in the summer. No one plows them. I drove down a mile past the dead end road that had the dairy on it and I found a pretty decent road and headed south. I could see generally where the road was under the crusted snow and ice and crested a hill and could see the power line crossing ahead of me.
If I was an owl, I'd spend the day up there, hunt rats a mile over at night, and spend the day in solitude up on a tower. Suddenly something big and white flew over ahead of my truck. It was coming from the dairy.
BINGO!
It was Pearl. It lit up on one of the towers and watched me watch it.


I left her where I found her, watching for voles and waiting for another after dark hunting raid on the diary. She is providing valuable tracking data and hopefully having a good winter and staying off the roads so she can head back north in the spring and some year breed making more snowy owls.
So this is my present, thanks Pearl, all I want for Christmas ....is "you!"My apologies to Mariah CareyMerry Christmas Pearl and to all of you, it is time to go skating!


Olaf
Published on December 24, 2019 09:19
November 17, 2019
Swift afoot

I had not chased a life-bird for North America since before New Years in 2018, the blackhawk up in Maine. It had been over 10 months. I had seen over 450 life world birds as a consolation, so I'm not complaining. There had been many quality and cool birds out there, but I had either been in the Southern Hemisphere or Europe, driving my RV, or been on the brink of some mandatory obligatory activity where I could not get away. Most of these birds had been nowhere even near to me or been unchasable in Alaska.
I had contemplated chasing a green-breasted mango in South Texas that had been reported when we were in El Paso but it was only a one day wonder and by the time I got Big Bird my RV, to San Antonio no one was still reporting the hummingbird. We continued heading east. It was a bird I’d photographed in Roatan in February anyway and seen many many times.



We switched locations and then there it was, lifer #802. We saw the Cuban bird at distance for brief times and then met up with Chris Feeney and took a break for lunch. It was after a really nice lunch. Later, I had decided that I would rather hunt for butterflies when the swift made some passes that were almost too close.

It was a great bird, and this was much closer than I’d seen the bird in Jamaica, but I was 300 miles from my RV in Lutz and we had a 2000 mile trip to leave on in the morning. It was also worth the trip to see some of the aftermath of Hurricane Irma. This golf course had been severely hurt by the winds and the surge. Palm trees were still topped and they had only opened half of the course. The camping areas of nearby Long Key State Park had been destroyed and it looked nothing like the last time I had been there chasing a grassquit and a dove back in 2016. It brought me back to St Martin and where I had started this writing project I was currently on.We got to Lutz at 8 PM and after a night of sleep, I awoke, packed the car with a dog, closed the RV, rounded up two cats, and a wife, and we headed out. Then thirty minutes later after we had realized we had forgotten cat food and circled back, we left again. It was a beautiful 78 degrees, later ten miles north of the Georgia border, it was 58, by Atlanta it was 42, and in Nashville, it was now 26 degrees. 10 hours and a loss of 56 degrees. They even had snow on the ground. I began to wonder why we were leaving the south. The next morning, the hills of Tennessee gave way to the fields of Kentucky, but it was still a cold ride home, and there was even freezing rain by the time we got to Iowa. I had only packed my sandals and well, my feet would have to toughen up before I could get home and find some shoes. We stayed about a mile where my wife and I had lived in Evansdale, Iowa near Waterloo. That was 22 years ago. It had been an eventful two decades of life. Lauren, out daughter, wasn’t even a thought when we lived in Iowa. We were too busy with the twins. I have always liked Iowa and driving US 20 that next morning was quite enjoyable. I dropped Silja off in Sioux Falls to go to a concert with her book club.I got home at four, let the pets out of the car, and then made a 45 miles sprint to our cabin to turn on the heat and hope the place hadn’t frozen up. It had already been below zero and Enemy Swim Lake was frozen over. I arrived at dusk and the temp inside was just 39 degrees, but luckily nothing had frozen inside as the warmer ground under the house had kept it above freezing. The furnace fired up without problems.

I came back home for the first time in 7000 miles and two months. I was tired. The TV and the internet were down. I had no food in the house and all it seemed I had was a bottle of Ardbeg scotch. I made do. I drank a toast to a long journey and by 9 PM, I was asleep, exhausted. It had been a long trek—a very long trek, but like the others this year, it was now over and soon another new one would begin.
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AFTER WE ARRIVED home for the first time in two months, we turned around after less than twenty four hours and drove the northwestern Wisconsin for my sister’s and my father’s birthday party. As has been the trend lately, a family gathering includes cleaning out my beloved grandmother’s house. Being a creature of the depression, she saved everything and also collected fine antiques. One never knows what one might find or how it would move you. On a previous trip we found left over alcohol from the Seventies. Cheap Phillips vodka from 1972 still tasted like old cheap vodka in 2019. A case of Bruenig’s Beer from Rice Lake, Wisconsin (it closed in 1974) made us all laugh as I threw it out in the dumpster. All of this was found hidden in grandma’s favorite hiding place for important artifacts. Under thirty years of taxes, her prized pickles, was a box of deeds and all of this old booze. I was afraid to even taste the sloe gin. Does anyone even drink that these days? My family was always very well read for periodicals and newspapers. For thirty years, two daily papers and at least six weekly newspapers were received at my grandparents house. I believe every gardening magazine ever created was delivered monthly in care of my grandmother Lucille. My grandfather read Fur, Fish, and Game religiously every month which was also the first magazine that ever published something I had written, a letter to the editor on sucker fishing. If I desired a subscription to about any magazine, I would never have the request rejected. I got everything from Outdoor Life to Time, the Sporting News to Sports Illustrated. My friends in school also looked forward to me receiving my copy of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue which was banned at my high school for being too provocative. I think I even sold one year’s copy to a fellow lusty teenager. The results of all of this current events reading was my near mastery of current event competitions in school. The other result were stacks of old magazines and newspapers with stories that interested my grandmother stashed around. Throwing away a magazine was something my grandmother didn’t like to do, especially a gardening magazine.We were throwing out a pile of old Life and Look magazines from the Sixties when I came across a classic that got me to thinking a little. Dated June 1962 was this issue with Marilyn Monroe on the cover. I’m not sure, but this is probably her last cover ever while she was alive, as just a few weeks later, she would die from too many pills. This story involves some outtakes from the movie Some like it hot. A skinny-dip you’ll never see on the screen celebrates her nudity. The article is suggestive as hell, but remember, Life was a family magazine and the pictures are pulled so that they don’t really show anything. Probably like my old SI Swimsuit issue, I bet I could have sold this issue two decades later for a tidy sum, that is if I had found it. I felt a little like I had missed an opportunity at commerce.

Olaf
Published on November 17, 2019 10:08
October 31, 2019
Viva Villa!

So why am I suddenly interested in Pancho Villa?
On March 9, 1916, the last time a foreign army invaded the United States, it happened in...Columbus, New Mexico, a question most will not answer correctly and today, we were there. The Battle of Columbus led to much...probably none of it good.



A little history:
Within a day, a full scale military incursion was authorized by President Wilson and Columbus was made into a huge staging area for an entire division of the Army, then more. Exactly a week later, General Pershing sent advance companies into Mexico in the plan of eliminating Villa at best or dispersing his military forces at worst. It ended 11 months later. During the course of the action, The US Forces killed many key Villa allies, including his chief lieutenant being one of three men shot personally by Lt George Patton. The Villanistas counter-attacked Glenn Springs and Boquillas, Texas both now in Big Bend National park (Boquillas is Rio Grande Village and Glenn Springs is a Ghost Town on the west side where there is only a small sign now, and where I got my lesser nighthawk in my big year in 2016). There a small US detachment was destroyed. A month later four, US Troops were killed at San Ygnatio, another birding location.
During the main incursion, the US Army encountered Mexican Regular Army and almost brought the two countries into a full scale war, but despite all of this...Pancho Villa escaped and the US needed to withdraw the troops so we could enter World War I as almost all of our regular troops were in Mexico. The US and not the Mexican Army would put an end to the Villinistas actions on the border as a 1919 Raid on Juarez across from El Paso would cause over a dozen US casualties due to stray bullets that the commander of the US forces immediately retaliated by sending in 1200 troops into Mexico and dispersed Villa's Division of the North so thoroughly that he sued for peace and retired. Many marriages and just three years later, he was assassinated. He was 45.
To be descriptive, the entire deal was IMHO one large waste of money, lives, and time.
We had just left from another famous place, the Chihuahua Mountains where Geronimo periodically hid between various previous incursions by the US Calvary into Mexico chasing him and his band. This was 30 years earlier. Silja and I hiked many of the trails and found hidden springs and saw the wildlife of the beautiful area.


We hiked the canyon trails to find birds and butterflies and went up in the pines to get the chickadee, yes that chickadee and I saw Mexican chickadees three times but they would not come out of the trees to be photographed. I found a couple of birders down on the bottom looking hopefully for a chickadee or two6 and thinking the titmice they had heard briefly were chickadees and I had to tell them, "you aere way too low" and gave them directions, but later on there was no evidence they had gone up the mountain, I think the road to Onion Saddle scared them, heck, it scares me, but if you want that bird, there is no short cut. I did photograph yellow-eyed juncos. I always like these guys, they look sinister.





I love these mountains and the twilight of our last day sort of described a lot for this country Extreme Southern New Mexico and SE AZ is changing, and I'm not sure if it is a good thing.

A beautiful sunset before a truly black night. Villa et al tried to destroy much of this area and leave people in fear, after Geronimo previously did and we ended up carting away the natives to captivity in Oklahoma. Now the jobs have pretty much all dried up, much like the towns of Rodeo, Antelope Wells, Animas, and especially Hachita. The railroad pulled out in 1961 as did much of the mining and even the Sky Gypsy scheme of John McAfee a decade ago ended up pretty much yielding nothing short of a really strange story and some serious head scratching (by me). The Sky Gypsy story is too bizarre to repeat here so look it up.
Now we got the new perceived border issues, and it is true that a focus place of illegal crossing was between Hachita and both sides of Columbus (I have first hand visualization of that years ago). I have read some recent musings out of the Big East Coast media saying that nothing has been built of Trump's wall and many people are all smiles and patting themselves on the back thinking what they read is true. Sorry folks, there IS A WALL being built....

I can give you directions and you can probably drive right up to it. I suspect that lazy reporters aren't driving out east of Columbus to see what is going on because NO ONE is ever out here driving on Hwy 9. It is easier to sit in New York and act smart. There are no direct flights to El Paso from DC or NYC.
The last time I drove this way, I met 67 border patrol cars and two sheriff's deputies, but no private vehicles....this year, that was down to 37 and 1 cop. Last time I was stopped five times while birding by Border Patrol but this time in the RV, nothing, although I wasn't stopping and wasn't out taking pictures, every five miles. There were cement trucks about every three miles, driving 100 miles from a cement plant near El Paso, which is owned by Grupo Cementos de Chihuahua, a Mexican company....sigh. How ironic is that?
BTW, I did meet only three civilian cars east of Hachita in 140 miles, besides construction crews.
The last time I drove here I spotted 17 illegals sneaking across the road, this time nadda one.
I hear that illegal traffic has moved to west of Douglas, AZ.
Where are these large helicopters were going or coming from made me wonder. I hope they weren't on border patrol, as they went north in Columbus they are heading away.

We drove through El Paso, I almost went into bronchospasm. We also ignore Juarez (a city of 1.4 million). Here we are, having a fit (rightfully so, to a degree) about global warming and all these fires in California, when one of the largest (yes) cities in America, El Paso has a terrible smog problem that you never hear about. You rarely ever hear about El Paso. It is a metro area larger than Detroit, Minneapolis, or well almost anywhere. It is like it just doesn't exist. Because of the lax rules on emissions right next door in Juarez, yet all of that 'stuff' they produce comes to us, smog included. Ban plastic...it is a better use of our time
Oh well, can't fix it anyhow and we always tend to forget history. We are like fish biting at the shiny bait...
So what did I learn...
1) Villa is still thought of fondly as a man for the the little person, yet in Villa's case, besides all of his brides, it is documented that he raped many ...many women hundreds to thousands, even shooting many that tried to shoot him after the fact. So Villa was a bad man, a very bad man.
2) The Chihuahuas Mtns and valleys are gorgeous
3) Mexican chickadees can be really hard to photograph
4) They are really building the wall, at least near Columbus NM, they are
Drive the desert of southern New Mexico...
Olaf
Published on October 31, 2019 07:11