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342 pages, Kindle Edition
First published October 29, 2015
In certain devout Hindu castes in which onions and garlic are deemed impure and so not eaten, asafoetida makes an effective substituteFirst, I didn’t know devout Hindus didn’t eat garlic or onion. Second, I didn’t know that asafoetida existed. Third, I certainly didn’t know asafoetida was an effective substitute for onions and garlic. Finally, I did not know I’d get a chance to bring these facts to bear so quickly after learning them. In everyone else’s defense, the common-sense option of, “Maybe she simply doesn’t like garlic so I should allow the chef make things that lack onions and garlic without meddling,” was an option but not quite as satisfying as the brown-M&M-level silly, “Hey let me get you some asafoetida to incorporate this week.” No regrets.
Questions about cinnamon’s origins sorely taxed the usual authorities. ‘In what country it grows is quite unknown,’ observes Herodotus, who then repeats a bizarre, obfuscatory story spread by Arab merchants:Herodotus launches into a fanciful tale of how cinnamon is found, which is then juxtaposed with Theophrastus’ equally nonsensical account, then Pliny, and now me: They say that cinnamon blossoms come out dried after the plant itself has already died; the sticks come in bundles of three and any interaction with a still-living cinnamon blossom results in death for the offending creature.” They’re cool stories—well, except for mine—and they are the kind of folklore that, again harkening back to the M&M’s, weave the fabric of our a specific subculture. If you want to know what Herodotus said about cinnamon and birds—which has a fascinating overlap with the myth of the Phoenix—The Book of Spice is available to you. So is the internet, I guess. And nevermind the fact that I self-deprecatingly referred to my own cinnamon tale as "not as good as Herodotus." That is not the same thing because that criticism is not non-existent. And drawing even more attention to it now certainly didn't complete the ouroboros of self-fulfilling prophesy, no sir.
To do this I have drawn on a variety of disciplines and the works of hundreds of writers…[t]here are, quite deliberately, many voices in the book apart from my own….The sixteenth-century botanist William Turner attempted something similar in his herbal…[and] his defence of this method made me smile:There was simply no reason for the author to declaim any portion of this text; it was wonderful from start to finish. Zhug, or Zhoug, the last entry in the spice mix section—which at my favorite local falafel place labels as s’rug—was in fact the last thing I ate before writing this. It is nice to learn, after years of consumption, its basic components:...if the honey that the bees gather out of many flowers may be called the bees’ honey, so may I call that which I have learned and gathered from many good authors my book.
Containing hot green chillies alongside garlic, cloves, cardamom, cumin, coriander (the herb) and flat-leaf parsley, is is reputed to boost the immune system.From morning poppy seed pedantry to nighttime nutmeg indulgences, there is always a time where something—fact or matter—from The Book of Spice has been on the tip of my tongue.