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640 pages, Hardcover
First published October 11, 2003
Occasionally people suggest that making bread, particularly kneading it, must be a great way to get out aggression. The irony is that when I start making bread, I am immediately blissed out and any possible aggression immediately evaporates. I don't need to pound the bread with my fists to arrive at this blessed state.
Don't be put off by strange-sounding names, like barm, biga, chef, desem, levain, madre bianca, mother, pâte fermentée, poolish sponge, starter or sourdough starter. At first these terms put me off, and I was resolved to avoid them in this book, thinking that the all-encompassing term starter was all I really needed, but gradually these special words became familiar friends.
I have to confess that for years I never believed flour could get stale, as long as I couldn't smell any off flavors, but I was dead wrong. I learned the now-unforgettable lesson when developing the recipe for the baguette. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get those lovely open holes in the crumb. [...] I learned that unless you freeze flour, it is essential to date it the moment you bring it into the house and then ruthlessly throw it out after 3 months if it's whole wheat or rye, after one year if it's white flour. No ifs, ands, or buts. As flour ages, it loses its strength. [...] Flour isn't expensive enough to risk wasting your time with an expired one.