A major new annual publication is born. It's a Zagat world, where everyone who isn't trying their hand as a food critic is at least talking about food writing: William Grimes' reviews and R.W. Apple's special reports in the New York Times, Jeffrey Steingarten's monthly Vogue missives, Jim Harrison in Esquire, and Ruth Reichl's revitalized Gourmet. Now is the perfect time to bring together essays, reviews, articles, and other miscellaneous pieces from a wide range of sources: food, travel, and general interest magazines, national and local newspapers, foodie newsletters and even Web sites. Because writing about food turns up in so many disparate places, food lovers will now have the opportunity to enjoy these stellar pieces, all in one place. Selections from writers including R.W. Apple, Alan Davidson, Fran Gage, William Grimes, Jim Harrison, Madhur Jaffrey, Lynne Rossetto Kasper, Nigella Lawson, Paul Levy, Eileen Yin-Fei Lo, Cheryl Mendelson, Catherine Reynolds, Michael Ruhlman, John Thorne, Calvin Trillin, and many others, are included.
Holly Hughes has edited the annual Best Food Writing series since its inception in 2000. The author of Frommer's 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers, she lives in New York City.
I probably read this when it first came out, and going back to it now it is fascinating as a snapshot of a time and culture that I remember fairly well, but of course could not see when I was in the midst of it. It is very much the concerns of the moment -- rich white people going to France or Italy and glorying in the food and telling other rich white people to do the same, old white men talking about how it is time to reclaim their favourite foods (bacon, butter) from the evil (often female) nutrition/diet experts, various food writers reminiscing about corn or tomatoes or trying to convince the reader that fennel is Actually Good or what-have-you... It was very much not the world of now, so interesting to visit with perspective, but not exactly enjoyable in & of itself. My favourite piece, to my surprise, was one by Jeffrey Steingarten about going to France to partake in old-fashioned pig butchery and the making of boudin noir -- he has a bit more much privileged snark to his writing than I really like, but it held up with all the detail and he was clearly aware that he was visiting someone else's traditions. (I was surprised he was my favourite because while I remember really enjoying his food writing ages ago, it WAS ages ago and I thought it wouldn't hold up for me. Now, hmn, maybe I will reread his books after all?)
Food writing seems to be something I'm drawn to in the fall, so maybe this fall I'll tackle the 2001 volume and see what's there.
R.W. Apple Jr. "The Smoky Trail to a Great Bacon" Jeffrey Steingarten "It Takes a Village to Kill a Pig" John Thorne "One Knife, One Pot" William Grimes "Dinner for 7: What Could Be Easier?" Grace Young "The Breath of a Wok" Tom Sietsema "The Chef Challenge" Anthony Bourdain "A Day in the Life" Phyllis Richman "The Chef of the Future" Anne Mendelson "Should Chefs Write Cookbooks?" Jim Quinn "Recipes for Dummies" Mark Kurlansky "The Reluctant Gourmet"
When I became a nascent foodie and began subscribing to Bon Appetit and Gourmet, I discovered the delights of reading great food writing. But I bemoaned all of the pieces I had already missed, and wished for a "best of" collection. And then I found this, and my prayers were answered. I love that I can always find a delicious little morsel within, which never fails to whet my appetite for the real thing!
This was my least favorite of the Best Food Writing series so far, but it still got four stars so that tells you how much I really enjoy them. I felt like the last 10 or so were weaker and less interesting. I was also surpised that there were two article back-to-back on risotto. I guess now the editors have much more to choose from in the way of topics. Great for us!
I highly recommend reading anthologies because they lead you to writers you might not otherwise have discovered. Rick Bragg's essay in this collection made me cry! I would never have found him on my own!
Lots of excerpts and reprints including ones by Lynn Rosetto Kasper, Anthony Bourdain, Calvin Trillin, Madhur Jaffrey, and tons of other food writers. You can't go wrong with such a collection. Even if some entries suck, others more than make up for it.