Two years ago, Bittman, an admitted foodie, was overweight. Over the course of one month, however, his cholesterol and blood sugar were down. His sleep apnea was gone and he was fifteen pounds lighter. Major changes all by eating healthier, the details of which Bittman discusses at length in the book.
Food Matters is broken up in two sections. The first looks at food consumption and how that impacts global warning (factory farming, yes, but mass produced baked goods are one of the largest contributors to energy usage), how manufacturers market specific foods to us and how that impacts our understanding of what we are supposed to eat ( re-think how you define “healthy” because more than likely your definition comes from a clever marketing plan and not what is actually healthy) and what Bittman terms “sane eating” [I refer to the same concept as "clean eating":]: eliminate processed foods, load up on as many vegetables as you can, embrace moderation (smaller plates, more frequent meals), limit alcohol, and give yourself “good” sweets (a homemade cookie, dark chocolate with natural peanut butter, etc.). The second section details recipes and meal plans. They are smart, uncomplicated and make good sense. Most are vegetarian, if not vegan, but if you are a meat eater, it is easy to imagine where you can use meat or watch for Bittman’s meat add-in suggestions in certain recipes.
Bittman sets out to inform readers about how his personal health journey can be ours as well and, by taking this less traveled path, how we can, as individuals, help reduce global warning. It’s a compelling case. Books like Food Matters are important because they connect the dots for busy people who want to do the right thing. This population is obviously the intended audience: the average American who is not terribly affected by the recession, who feels reasonably comfortable in his job and is not overly concerned if gas prices rise again, even if he does drive an Acura MDX. Because what is not addressed in Food Matters is the extent to which one’s socio-economic level impacts their opportunity to eat healthily. Pretty much a non-factor based on my assumption of who his intended audience is with this book. With one vague reference to vegetable side dishes being less expensive on the menu than meat ones and a reference to how eating less meat and fish can lower your grocery bill, Bittman doesn’t include the factor of price with his “keep your fridge full at all times, mostly with fruits and vegetables” mantras.
Eating healthy is expensive. Choosing cage-free, organic eggs over the store brand can cost the average consumer at least $1-2 extra, more depending on the market and location. Those healthy, environmentally good choices add up. Organic produce is always much more expensive than the non-organic option. Farmer’s markets are great places for good food and worth supporting but from New York and Connecticut to here in Durham, I have found them to be just comparable in price or more expensive than their grocery store counterparts. And, yes, eliminating or cutting back on meat and fish will always reduce the cost of your grocery bill. . .if you do your weekly shopping at Balducci’s. But if Kroger is your grocery store, like it is for me, you can buy frozen turkey breast for 99 cents per pound. That’s less expensive than practically any vegetable in the entire produce department, with the exception of kale or turnip greens perhaps, and what’s more that turkey will feed a family of four for dinner, with leftovers.
And so we come to the challenge between great ideas in theory and in practice. In theory, we could all adapt Bittman’s recommended lifestyle and save the planet from imminent destruction. In practice, most of the population in the United States is not wealthy enough to purchase wild salmon and fresh herbs on a regular basis. But I am not a fan of either/or. As participants from workshops and my clients know, I often look for the vast grey area in between black and white (either/or) for tips, ideas or answers. So, Food Matters is worth checking out from the local library (I am returning my copy tomorrow). Open it up, peruse. You don’t have to adapt every single one of his practices, if they feel beyond where you are at right now. Take what you want and leave the rest.
One thing we can all do, regardless of income level, is acknowledge that we–not our doctor, partner or even Mark Bittman–have control over our personal health. And that’s no small potatoes.