I loved this book, and before I was even half way through the ARC computer download I pre-ordered a hard copy from Amazon. I have been a fan of peppers – particularly the hot ones – for a long time. Mainly to cook with and to eat, but also to admire the look of the fresh fruit. But even so, I was really gobsmacked by the incredible variety and beauty of the many peppers pictured and described in this book. With each picture is an idea of how the pepper is best used, what sort of heat, flavours, perfume etc that is commonly has, often where it grows, and sometimes a bit of history attached to that particular cultivar. I wanted to grow and taste every single one of the peppers – though I have had to realise that won’t really be possible. Still I can dream. And that is just the dictionary part in the middle of the book.
The book begins with an exhaustively researched and fascinating history of peppers, starting with their first appearance in Bolivia and Peru, and then tracking their branching into the five main species: Capsicum annum; C. frutescens; C. chinense;, C. pubescens and C. baccatum, by looking at archaeological findings going back eight thousand years and up to the Hispanic conquests, and then the writings of Spanish and Portuguese invaders, missionaries and travellers, onto the spread to the rest of Europe (particularly through the monasteries), to India, Asia, to Africa – basically everywhere – through recipe books, travellers, physicians and botanists reports … This is a completely new way to examine the history of Columbus’ trips to discover the Americas – via the continent’s food and food related customs. From there, it is a history of how the now regarded as traditional chilli laden cuisines of Thailand, Szechuan China evolved, and how the agribusiness of producing peppers has grown and mutated worldwide, along with its potential ecological and social repurcussions.
The final section is the recipes. I have tried a few, such as the excellent “Red Snapper in a Spicy Creole Sauce”, “Panfried Pork Steaks in Guajillo-Puya Adobo” and the very moreish “Spicy Pickled Cucumber” (made that one twice). There are several that I still want to try, but will wait until I get the hardback book – and the correct peppers.
The recipe section by itself is not especially outstanding – though it does contain a wide range of good recipes. But in combination with the encyclopaedia of peppers, you get a real insight into why you are asked to use particular peppers, what flavours, aromas and particular heat you should expect from the recipe, and which peppers could be used as possible substitutes. I feel I will now have the tools I need to re-examine recipes from other books, which also use peppers, to improve my cooking and understanding. As someone who has previously mainly categorised chillies according to their heat, I have had my eyes opened to how much I have been missing out on. Unlike the author, I cannot readily buy a variety of fresh peppers at local markets (despite living in London), but luckily can order some by mail order from The South Devon Chilli Farm (my order went in today!). So, soon I will embark on more pepper laden meals, and hopefully start growing some too.
This is an exceptional book for anyone interested in cooking, the history of food, world history, archaeology, botany, beautiful plants … Basically, it has something for everyone. I can hardly wait until my own hard copy arrives on my doorstep.
I received this copy from the publisher via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review