An indispensable book for every wine lover, from some of the world's greatest experts.
Where do wine grapes come from and how are they related to each other? What is the historical background of each grape variety? Where are they grown? What sort of wines do they make and, most importantly, what do they taste like?
Using the most cutting-edge DNA analysis and detailing almost 1,400 distinct grape varieties, as well as myriad correct (and highlighting almost as many incorrect) synonyms, this particularly beautiful book includes revelatory grape family trees, and a rich variety of illustrations from Viala and Vermorel's seminal ampelography with century-old illustrations. Combining Jancis Robinson's world view, nose for good writing and good wines with Julia Harding's expertise and attention to detail plus Dr Vouillamoz's unique level of scholarship, Wine Grapes offers essential and original information in greater depth and breadth than has ever been available before. A book for wine students, wine experts and wine lovers everywhere.
Jancis Mary Robinson OBE, MW is a British wine critic, journalist and editor of wine literature. She currently writes a weekly column for the Financial Times, and writes for her website jancisrobinson.com. She also provides advice for Queen Elizabeth II's wine cellar.
Robinson studied mathematics and philosophy at Oxford University and worked for a travel company after leaving university. Robinson started her wine writing career on December 1, 1975 when she became assistant editor for the trade magazine Wine & Spirit. In 1984 she became the first person outside the wine trade to become a Master of Wine. She also served as British Airways's wine consultant.
As a wine writer, she has become one of the world's leading writers of educational and encyclopedic material on wine. The Oxford Companion to Wine, edited by Robinson, is generally considered to be the most complete wine encyclopedia. In addition, The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson is one of the leading wine atlases. In 1995, Jancis Robinson appeared in a 10-episode wine course on BBC 2 television. This series has later been reissued on DVD. A book titled Jancis Robinson's Wine Course was written to accompany the series and has gone through several editions.
She has an honorary doctorate from the Open University, and was made an OBE in 2003, among numerous other awards for her writing. Her accolades include multiple Glenfiddich Awards and André Simon Memorial Awards, and Decanter's "1999 (Wo)Man of the Year".
This isn't one those books about which you would ever say "Oh yeah, I read that." It is a beautifully packaged and presented tome of 1241 pages about 1368 grape varieties used at some point or another to make wine. There are in fact roughly 10,000 vine varieties, representing some six dozen species. Wine Maven Jancis Robinson and her editorial colleagues restrict themselves to those varieties used in the commercial production (historical or modern) of wine.
At $175 a pop, this is serious wine geek territory.
The book is gorgeous but oh heavens, is that some small font! Arranged alphabetically, Wine Grapes gives a brief description of each variety, its origins and parentage, viticultural characteristics, where it's grown and what its wine tastes like. Brilliant. Totally Brilliant. Length of content varies - the section on PINOT, which has a large number of clonal variations, goes on for pages; Sary Pandas ("Old Ukranian variety planted mainly in the south of the country for dessert wines") merits half a page.
There are sumptuously rendered paintings (copies, natch) of many of the most common varieties and tri-fold family tree style diagrams of important variety pedigrees.
This is about as crazy-beautiful as wine guides get. It's a lifetime of information and a reading labor of love for those who are enchanted by wine.
And indulge me for a moment in a rant. VARIETAL is an adjective. VARIETY is a noun. A VARIETAL wine refers to a style of wine, made primarily from a single grape VARIETY. Saint-Émilion Grand cru classé is not a blend of the varietals Merlot, Cabernet franc and Cabernet sauvignon. It is a blend of those VARIETIES.
I see and hear over and over again wine professionals who really should know better using varietal when they mean variety. I see it on winery websites, in wine professionals' blogs, in magazines, store shelf talkers, and hear it used incorrectly almost daily by sales people who bring wine to my office.
Okay, phew. Rant over. Pour yourself of a glass of Inzolia (a nutty Sicilian white) and dive into Wine Grapes. Just don't ask me to pull you out.
Gewürztraminer * Alsace (phenolic bitterness) & Germany * heady nose; rose, lychee, gingerbread, orange/grapefruit * high intensity on the nose, aromatic * pairs well with pork; superior to Moscato
Torrontes * High altitude Salta, Argentina * typically unoaked humble grape meant to be drunk fresh * grapefruit, hint of lychee but < strong vs Gewürztraminer * high intensity floral aromas
Sauvignon Blanc * Old World France (Loire Valley: Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé eg Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Asteroide, Alphonse Mellot); * New World: NZ (Marlborough) * Aromatic: grassy (cut grass), lemon grass, herbaceous notes. Citrus: lime, passion fruit, kiwi (NZ) * Unoaked/neutral casks
Albarino * Spain (>complex), Portugal (simpler wines) * Light-medium bodied. Pale straw. * Citrus lemon/lime/grapefruit when young, stone fruits: peach, apricot when aged. Raw almond, citrus pith bitterness. * Saline * High acidity, typically fresh & unoaked * Yeasty/beer/flat champagne. Phenolic bitterness * Pair w/ Portuguese/Spanish seafood
Non-aromatic white varietals * Chardonnay: the only grape used to make Chablis & White Burgundy; medium bodied & medium/+ acidity; can be buttery in taste if it undergoes malolactic fermentation; blank canvas tt reflects terroir (can be rounded or austere; green apples, stone fruits e.g. peach or tropical (New World) notes of pineapple/mango/banana/papaya); used in Champagne. Most famously in Burgs (Cote de Beaune), also Chablis, USA, Aussie (Margaret River, Victoria) Chardonnay beyond Burgundy https://youtu.be/CpE2J1FqeXo Chardonnay & regionality https://youtu.be/8TwuYByjykY
Viognier * Old World: Condrieu, Rhone, Languedoc * New World: California, South Africa, also NZ & Australia * Medium+ to high intensity floral led varietal: honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, elderflower. Lush stone fruit (peach, apricot), orange peel * Malolactic fermentation w/ light/no oak: crème fraîche/sour cream, creamy yoghurt. Phenolic bitterness. Soft acidity. Elevated alcohol.
Grüner Veltliner * Austrian dry white (Wachau: Federspiel vs Smaragd) * green herbs: sage, chives, tarragon; bell pepper; wasabi, radish (similar to Sauvignon Blanc’s green/grassy notes but less aromatic), vegetal: asparagus, peas, arugula, watercress; citrus lime. * Mineral & stony. Leesy, smoke. Phenolic bitterness. Typically unoaked or neutral large cask.
Chenin Blanc * Old World: Loire Valley (Vouray, Savennieres), * New World: South Africa (oaked), NZ (Milton Vineyards), India * High acidity, apple juice, dry/off-dry (Botrytis) * 67 Pall Mall considers it a noble grape
Pinot Gris (Grey Pinot) * Italy (Pinot Grigio), Alsace * Sometimes w/ copper tinge when higher extraction is applied to this simple grape. Unoaked. Phenolic bitterness. Drink young * Similar to Chenin Blanc but straightfwd
Semellon * White Bdx, Sauternes, Hunter Valley, S Africa * Typically blended, can be dry (White Box often new oak) or sweet (backbone of Sauternes; thin skin susceptible to noble rot). * Low acidity, oily/wax texture. New World: Hunter Valley style = SSB fresh, light, & dry Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc. So depending on style can be crisp palate-cleansers or rich, creamy. When young it bursts with zesty, citrusy flavours – lemon, green apple, stone fruit. Young expressions generally lean toward clean and citrusy, with a moderate body and subtle floral aromas. With a little age, it can develop delicious honey and toasted characters.
Other whites * Marsanne: Northern Rhone grape (eg Hermitage) oft blended w/ Roussanne. Adds depth & rich textures to wine. Through blending, the grape helps produce rich, deeply colored wines with flavors and scents of roasted nuts, pears, white peaches, honeydew melon, spice and flowers. High alcohol, medium+ to full bodied * Aligote: 3rd grape of Burgundy * Carricante: Etna * Pecorino: Ciu Ciu
Reds  Light & Smooth (least tannic) * Gamay: used for Beaujolais; fresh & fruity * Pinot Noir: Thin skinned, cold weather, difficult to grow. S-characteristics: soft, subtle, smooth, silky, sexy; associated w/ the great Burgundy reds (colder region) and California (made famous by the movie ‘Sideways’ - a hard grape to grow). Watch face test. Raspberry, cherry, strawberry (Nuits St George, Morey St Denis), blackcurrant, violet, liquorice, barnyard for older PN especially Gevrey Chambertin * Nerello Mascalese: Sicily Italy. Similar to PN but >full bodied, higher in abv. Lilacs & dried strawberry. * Dolcetto: aka Little Sweet One; recommended by Richard Betts; Piedmont, Italy; simple, fruity quaffing wine (soft red cherry & sometimes acid/slightly sour twist although it is generally a low-acid grape). Most frequently made in stainless steel => no oak flavours
Medium bodied * Sangiovese: blended into Chianti; rich concentrated wines of aromas of red fruits macerated in spices, tomato, tangy sour cranberry (acidic, acid led), sour cherry, raspberry, blackcurrant, liquorice, smoke. Clones are Prugnolo Gentile (used in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano) and Brunello (brown). Classic examples should not have significant oak as it is either unoaked (Chianti) or oaked in large neutral casks without any significant new oak. * Tempranillo: Spain (Rioja & Ribera del Duero); easy drinking; fruit: raspberry, blackberry, cherry, liquorice, smoke/tobacco, leather, earthy, oak influenced (must have a lot of oak). * Carménère: Chile; similar to Merlot (but pronounced bell pepper, herbs), gentler and softer tannins vs Cabernet Sauvignon; often blended * Cabernet Franc: used in St Emilion wines e.g. Cheval Blanc and Haut Brion (Graves); tastes of fresh fruits e.g. raspberry, redcurrant, cherry; floral aroma e.g. violets, smoke; lighter & leafier vs CS; also green pepper * Merlot: Angelus; softer & sweeter vs CS; fruit: blue fruits: blueberries/plums/prunes, blackcurrant, blackberry, truffle, liquorice * Nero D’avola: Sicily * Malbec: medium-full bodied, spicy, rubbery texture * Pinotage (cross of Pinot Noir & Cinsaut): South Africa. Often affected by Brettanomyces. * Grenache: Grown in warmer climates =>elevated alcohol. Old world: VDNs of Roussillon, Cote du Rhone, CdP (Grenache led blend); New World: Australia (GSM). Moderate-elevated tannins. Candied/cooked/stewed/dried fruit: redcurrant/cherry/strawberry; roasted red plums; blackberry, figs/rasin.
Full bodied (most tannic) Appearance: dark red; port like; younger wines tend to be more blue-purple vs older wines are brick-brown * Zinfandel aka Primitivo in Italy: both clones of a Croatian grape called Crljenak in Croatia. Widespread in California e.g. Truley, Ridge; dark skinned, aromatic wines & typically higher in alcohol content; cinnamon, leather, caramel, sweet, smoke/black pepper, fruit: figs, dark fruit, blueberries, strawberry, raspberry, cherry * Nebbiolo: Piedmont; makes the legendary Barolo (PN of Italy; stored for >3yrs) & Barbaresco (sandier soil vs Barolo); full flavoured & powerful (leather, chocolate, liquorice, tar & roses/potpourri); fruity (raspberry, cherry), spicy; structure & tannin - ages well up to 10 yrs as it’s high in tannins although it’s thin skinned. High acid, high tannins * Cabernet Sauvignon: genetic progeny of Cabernet Franc & Sauvignon Blanc; Bordeaux Left Bank; powerful; thicker skin, higher tannins, warmer weather; fruit: blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry (St Julien), green pepper (Pyrazines), liquorice, smoke * Petit Verdot: originated in Bordeaux (used by Chateau Palmer) and blended with Cab Sauv to bring additional tannins and a spicy character w/ notes of olives ("Little Green"). Difficult grape to grow as it ripens late and hence susceptible to rain. Attracted the attention of New World wine producers eg McLaren Vale where the weather is more suited for this late harvest grape * Monastrell aka Mourvedre: Spain (Alicante, Jumilla, Almansa), France (Bandol (Provence), Rhône); high in tannins; fruit: black berry, plum, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry; spicy: black pepper, smoke, gravel * Shiraz/Syrah: Purple tinge; spicy; Barossa Valley, Australia (jammy) and Northern Rhone ie Hermitage/Côte Rotie (bacon); fruit: contains rotundone =>spicy (black pepper, green pepper), blackcurrant, blackberry, violet, truffle, liquorice, olive; bacon * Barbera: best in Piedmont but also grown in California, Australia & Argentina (following Italian immigration pattern); dark skinned grape favored by Savoyard army officers coz its rustic yet generous character was regarded as a sincere companion and helped maintain courage in battle; pairs well w/ rabbit/lamb. Typically unoaked. * Corvina: used in Amarone. Rasinated
I hate reviewing books like this because there is little to say beyond: it’s well researched, it’s well written, it is indispensable and has no peer.
It is very much what I have come to expect from anything written by Jancis Robinson and has been made all the better by the significant contributions by coauthors Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz.
This is like a bible for wine. It is the most beautiful book that is not so much read, but relished. The history and use of all wine varietals are presented. But the presentation is the most evocative I have ever seen in a book. There are glorious inset images and a level of detail that transforms this book into a crucial text to understand wine.
It is an expensive book, but one that I am thrilled to owned, and loved to read. I will keep readings and researching this book for ears. Tremendous. Inspirational.
Sometimes I carry this around with me like it's my small child. Really great for anyone who is interested in the amazing variety of, well, varieties in vitis vinifera, and not the person who goes everywhere asking for the same insipid chardonnay. This is a book for the open-minded and deeply curious wine lover.
Encyclopaedic. All you could imagine wanting to know about wine grapes, and more. Probably the first book to use modern DNA work to establish relationships between varieties. Not a book to be read at a sitting, but to be picked up and dipped into.
The most complete world reference on grapes, a bible for any wine lover, with thorough description of grapes families, geographical location, productivity, organoleptic characteristics. A must have.