Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story

by John T. Edge

Includes fifteen mouthwatering recipes With Fried Chicken and Apple Pie , John T. Edge launched a series that celebrates American culture through the lore of our favorite foods. Now, Edge continues his quest to discover the very essence of America through the dishes we love and cherish. Across the nation, from backyard barbecues to Big Macs, Edge follows the evolution of the burger from frugal repast to deluxe treat, but always with a celebration of American brawn and freedom. Available only in Nonfiction 4.

Genres: Food, Cooking, History, Nonfiction, Cookbooks

Hardcover

First published June 23, 2005

About the author

John T. Edge writes and hosts the Emmy Award–winning television show TrueSouth on the SEC Network, ESPN, Disney, and Hulu. Edge also writes a restaurant column for Garden & Gun. His 2017 book, The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South, was named one of the best books of the year by NPR and Publishers Weekly. Edge serves the University of Mississippi as a teacher, writer-in-residence, and director of the Mississippi Lab. And he serves the University of Georgia as a mentor in their low-residency MFA program in narrative nonfiction. He lives in Oxford, Mississippi, with his wife, the artist Blair Hobbs.

Reviews

[Greg · Rating 4 out of 5]

Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story is not about politics. It is culinary history and travel writing. But as I read the book, I couldn’t help but think about politicians and others who opine about a “real” America; that it is Christian, that it is based on a white, Anglo-Saxon heritage, or that the essence of the country can be condensed into simplified symbols. I think Edge’s book is an eloquent statement about pluralism—the antithesis of what self-serving Americans describe as exceptionalism—and all the complexity the word implies. That’s what is truly American.

Consider the hamburger. As Edge convincingly states, it did not, as some will claim, originate in Hamburg, Germany. In the days before air travel, the last European spot the vast majority of immigrants ever touched before they embarked for America was the riverfront of Hamburg. Thus anyone who traveled this route came “from Hamburg” and the name of the food most identified with America was born.

Local and regional influences and legacies have shaped its story. Edge ponders the origins of smashing onions into burgers and putting cheese inside the patty. Taken together, the mosaic history of hamburgers is a stunning work of art that includes bits of slug burgers in Mississippi, steamed cheeseburgers in Connecticut, bean burgers (don’t forget the essential Fritos) in San Antonio, the varieties of the Jucy (yes, that’s the correct spelling) Lucy in Minneapolis, green chile cheeseburgers in New Mexico, fritas in Miami, deep fried burgers in Memphis, sugar-tinged burgers from Hawaii that share a strange link with Akron, Ohio’s Swenson’s (where they mix maple syrup into beef), the Los Angeles chili burger, and the squealer from South Texas.

Despite the title, this story is primarily about hamburgers; the fries part is almost an afterthought. But to Edge’s credit, he does pay homage to McDonald’s fries which, as any connoisseur knows, are the reason McDonald’s must exist. The marriage of hamburgers and fries probably was born when World War I veterans returned from Europe with stories about the fried potatoes they had in France and Belgium. And those morsels fried in duck fat remain the standard. But he’s convinced me that the next time I’m in Philadelphia I’ve got to head down to South Street and get some Spanish Fries. (Since this book was written before the Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland was opened, I’d recommend the fabulous thin-cut version fried in duck fat, salted and graced with sprigs of fresh rosemary.) [addendum: the Greenhouse Tavern has closed, another culinary tragedy.]

There are worlds beyond the run-of-the-mill franchises littering the nation—excepting of course, In-N-Out, which Eric Schlosser in Fast Food Nation cites as one of two guilt-free fast food companies. In a discussion with a restaurant owner in Iowa over a loose meat sandwich Edge observes, “I’ve come to think of Iowa as a place where an eater can understand that while the great majority of our milk is now homogenized, our country isn’t.” I think somewhere, somehow, among all the people who make and enjoy hamburgers, the “real” America really can be found.

[Melissa · Rating 1 out of 5]

I saw this book at the library on display. I think I was hungry, so the picture cover picture lured me in. It ended up not being at all what I thought it was going to be. A mix between the history of hamburgers and a cookbook. Very dry and full of details I could care less about - like cost of burgers in different states. And nothing about fries, despite what the title suggests. Unless you love hamburgers and are dying to know every fact about them, don't read this.

[Roo · Rating 2 out of 5]

Less history than I thought there would be, more of a book version of that Anthony Bourdain show, but still cute. Fast read - 3 hrs. Contains recipes for different burger variations. One huge problem: In N Out not covered!

[Rodney · Rating 5 out of 5]

If I wrote a book about hamburgers, this is almost exactly how I'd imagine the writing. Treated the subject with respect, offered insights, a unique voice and interesting historical facts. The version of the book in my head only adds pages of beautiful burger photography :)

[Miriam · Rating 1 out of 5]

Not very good and also not about fries. John Edge traveled around the country eating different hamburgers and telling us about them.

[Allison · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a fun series to read if you're a foodie. I learned a few things about hamburgers and their history. Also included are a ton of recipes, which is always appreciated.

[Lindsay · Rating 1 out of 5]

Surprisingly pretentious for a book about plain ol' burgers and fries...

[Julia Rojas · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book was ok. It has facts and recipes in it. Some of the recipes sound delicious. I liked the restaurant list at the end. This book gets the low rating because it was kind of boring.

[Bookworm · Rating 2 out of 5]

More like a blog about his travels than a book. I actually came across this book via an upcoming book of his and saw this was ready at the library. It was time for a different type of book so I thought this would be a good read. I'm not much of a foodie and am quite happy with a hamburger and fries if I'm in that type of eatery. 
 
It's sort of a history of hamburgers. The opening was quite interesting to read (although it's not true as Edge points out right after) and then the book pretty much goes down from there. Interspersed with some history, some recipes and some interesting facts, this really read more like a travel blog type of writing rather than something that might be more informative or at least interesting.
 
As others mentioned the "fries" part really doesn't get much attention. There's a list of restaurants at the end of the book. 
 
It was short and it was something else that I needed after reading heavy (both physically and content-wise) material the last few books. But I'm really glad it was a library borrow. And while it's a different book, I'm not sure I'll be rushing to read his 'Potlikker Papers' which is how I found this book. He gave a really interesting NPR interview for that book though, so maybe that text will benefit from being a more recent work.

[Don Heiman · Rating 5 out of 5]

In 2005 Putnam’s Sons Penguin Group published John T. Edge’s book “Hamburgers and Fries: an American Story”. At the time of publication, Edge’s book was the third in his series that profiles America’s most “iconic” foods. The book is full of laugh out load humor about the joy of eating regional varieties of hamburgers and potato fries. The book is also a recipe book for grill food fanatics: and an address travel guide for readers who want to sample the eclectic versions of hamburgers across the United States. It is a very enjoyable and fast read. (P)

[Jeff · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good read: lite, enlightening, and intriguing. From steamed cheeseburgers (yes, steamed) in Connecticut to the reason for White Castle to the immigrant blends in L.A. burgers and the envelope-pushing going on in Texas and Hawaii, this book is a gustatory tour de force of the Great American Food Item. With Recipes! Philadelphia features prominently in the chapter on fries: Ishkabibble's, Nodding Head, Monk's Café, Chickie & Pete's, and Tony Luke's.

[Doreen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I came across this book at the local library just before July 4th and thought it would be the perfect Summer food read. I was disappointed—the Master’s-level vocabulary words were distracting to the American story of burger history. It did provide a good overview of the regional differences in burgers with little attention on fries. Oh well it was free.

[Clair Keizer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Some may consider the venture a major undertaking; others a silly adventure in eating. Either way, in the early 2000s, John T. Edge took it upon himself to discover the many varieties of hamburgers (primarily) and fries and documents his findings in his book, appropriately, Hamburgers & Fries: and American Story. From the outset, Edge says he is not seeking the early efforts of gourmet burgers, but focuses instead on unique regional offerings. Although his book is small, his reporting is extensive. From the rural South, to the Iowa prairies and beyond, America offers a great many versions of America's favorite handheld. Self identified connoisseurs may not find much purpose in Edge's research, but those of us who find pleasure in small town and roadside diners (while they continue to exist) will be envious of this effort. Thanks John.

[Tripp · Rating 4 out of 5]

Despite quite liking them, I haven't given much thought to the making of hamburgers. I tend to throw in a few odds and ends and then cook them. This is probably why my hamburgers are crappy. With a non-beef eating spouse I don't get to make them that much anyway. Still, I would like to make one that I would want to eat. John T Edge has quite a few ideas on how I might do that in his Hamburger & Fries: An American Story.

While there are quite a few recipes here (one of which calls for beef tallow!,) the book is mostly about the great diversity in hamburgers found throughout the United States. There are the unfortunately named (and apparently none too tasty) slug burgers of the south, which use crackers, flour or other filler. There is the Jucy Lucy (sic) of Minneapolis*, so named because the man who first asked for one apparently said "That is a Juicy Lucy!" Then there are the loose meat sandwiches of the Mid-West. I meant to try these on my last trip across country but failed to stop at an appropriate restaurant. Now I can just make my own.

Edge loves food, but he also focuses on the people making the food. He is interested in how these different burger traditions arose and that is often the best part of his many stories. I like also that he is honest about the burgers he tried. He flat out disliked the slug burger and he thought the Jucy Lucy was interesting, but not as special as advertised. He still provides recipes for both, as your taste may differ.

Edge writes for the Oxford American and has a number of other books, including ones on Apple Pie, Donuts and Fried Chicken. I will be reading more of them. I will also be looking for burger spots on the Portland Hamburger blog. Next stop, Jim Dandy.

[Russ · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is non-edible but great if you are a fan of hamburgers and would like to know more about their history.

[Lauren · Rating 4 out of 5]

Mmmmm, burgers. Mmmmm, fries. There are even recipes included for those braver than I. Of course, if someone were to make some of these burgers FOR me, well, I just might give 'em a try. Slider-style.

[Rick Segers · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is one a four part series of books on uniquely American foods written by John Edge of the Southern Foodways Alliance. these are great books for foodies of course but also for fans of the particular foods. All feature great background and recipes.

[Jim · Rating 4 out of 5]

Edge travels across the country researching the history of the burger and all its regional variations . . . great food and travel writing

[Shelley (Lavendar)]

Anthropological tour de farce on the American Hamburger.

[Andrew · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is John T. Edge doing what he does best.

[Minneapolani · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love John T Edge, and think that overall, his books are great, but this one has more books on the topic to compare itself to, and I find it falls in the middle of the pack, burger book wise.

[Kate · Rating 4 out of 5]

its a nice little tour through the regional variations of the hamburger in america.

[karly]

hope to read this book soon :)